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Wine Press Northwest Fall 2012 issue

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  • The Fall 2012 issue of Wine Press Northwest includes features on Hispanic winemakers, our annual Great Northwest Wine Lists Competition and a blind tasting of Northwest Malbecs. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Victor Palencia is the head winemaker at Jones of Washington winery in Mattawa. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Victor Palencia worked at Willow Crest Winery as assistant winemaker when he was just 20 years old. JACKIE JOHNSTON — NYT
  • A wine country mural adorns the walls of the Sinclair Estate Vineyards' tasting room in Walla Walla. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Amy Alvarez-Wampfler is winemaker at Sinclair Estate Vineyards. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Andrew Martinez and his father, Sergio Martinez. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Victor Cruz is the owner and winemaker at Canon de Sol Winery in Benton City, Wash. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • The annual Great Northwest Wine Competition honors restaurants with top wine lists. KEN SUSYNSKI
  • A view of the Methow Valley from the dining room at Sun Mountain Lodge. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Copperleaf Restaurant in Seatac provides a superb Northwest wine list. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Salish Lodge and Spa in Snoqualmie, Wash., has a long tradition for great Northwest wine lists. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Campbell's Bistro in Chelan has the best Washington wine list. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Chef Bobby Moore at the Barking Frog in Woodinville, just across the street from Chateau Ste. Michelle and across the parking lot from The Herbfarm. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Purple Cafe in Woodinville provides a superb wine and dine experience. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Wild Ginger in Seattle and Bellevue has 30,000 bottles of wine. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Jack Czarnecki runs the Joel Palmer House in Dayton and has the top wine list in Oregon. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • The Riverside Restaurant in Hood River has one of the top wine lists in Oregon. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Bardenay Restaurant and Distillery in Boise has a great Idaho wine lists. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Mercer Estates in Prosser made the top Malbec in our blind tasting. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Mercer Estates Winery 2009 Spice Cabinet Vineyard Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $30:</b> We rated the 2008 version of this wine an "Outstanding" last fall, and the 2009 from this Yakima Valley winery follows through even better, finishing atop our judging. The vineyard was planted in 2005 in a steep bowl overlooking the Columbia River and Crow Butte Park and is showing amazing promise in just its fifth leaf. This opens with aromas of ripe plums and blackberries, along with hints of cedar, Baker's chocolate and cinnamon bark. On the palate, it reveals flavors of chocolate, then quickly shows off cherries, plums, exotic spices and blueberries, all backed with stunning acidity and modest tannins. (32 cases, 14.8% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Upland Estates Winery 2008 Malbec, Snipes Mountain, $30:</b> Third-generation grape grower Todd Newhouse and winemaker Robert Smasne team up to produce one of the top Malbecs in the Pacific Northwest. This should come as no surprise, as the 2007 version of this wine earned best in show at the 2009 Tri-Cities Wine Festival. It is a distinctive wine with exotic aromas of blueberries, cherries and spices, followed by exciting flavors of minerality and plums. It's a big, full mouth feel backed with enticing acidity. (93 cases, 13.6% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Five Star Cellars 2009 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, $38:</b> The father-son team of David and Matt Huse operate one of the top wineries in the Walla Walla Valley. They launched Five Star in 2000, and it continues to shine brightly. Most of the fruit from this superb Malbec came from iconic Seven Hills Vineyard in the southern Walla Walla Valley. It opens with big aromas of black licorice, plums, lilac, Kona coffee and tar, followed by rich, plush flavors of cherries, chocolate and vanilla extract. (375 cases, 14.6% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Patterson Cellars 2009 Malbec, Wahluke Slope, $34:</b> Winemaker John Patterson brought in grapes from Northridge Vineyard on the warm Wahluke Slope for this superb red wine. It is an exotic wine with a hint of spices on the nose, followed by aromas of cherries, sweet pipe tobacco, pie cherries and red currants. On the palate, it is a lively wine with flavors of cherries, boysenberries and warm spices, all backed with silky tannins, bright acidity and a long, satisfying finish. (122 cases, 14.2% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Hamilton Cellars 2008 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $30:</b> When Russ and Stacie Hamilton decided to launch their Richland, Wash., winery, they chose to focus their efforts on Malbec, a variety they already loved, because they wanted to distinguish themselves within Washington's growing wine industry. Obviously, they chose well. Winemaker Charlie Hoppes, a fellow Malbec disciple, has crafted a wine that reveals complex aromas of minerality, mint, raspberries, tar, boysenberries and chocolate. On the palate, this big red offers juicy flavors of raspberries, white strawberries and black cherries. It's a smooth, easy-drinking wine with brilliant acidity and a lengthy finish. (192 cases, 14.6% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Airfield Estates 2009 Malbec, Yakima Valley, $28:</b> Marcus Miller leads the winemaking at this family operation in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser. He has been making superb wines for the past few years, so seeing his Malbec rise near the top of the list should come as no surprise. This is a delicious red with aromas of minerality on the nose, along with notes of red and black fruit and orange zest. On the palate, it reveals flavors of dark cherries, blueberries, blackberries and dark chocolate, with a hint of black tea on the finish. (376 cases, 14.8% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Milbrandt Vineyards 2009 The Estates Malbec, Wahluke Slope, $25:</b> Using grapes from estate plantings on the warm Wahluke Slope, Milbrandt has crafted one of the top wines in our Malbec judging. This includes 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot in the blend to round out the edges. It opens with aromas of chocolate, coffee and blackberries, followed by rich flavors of opulent dark fruit, including blackberries and plums. Exotic spices meld with notes of chocolate for a long, smooth finish. (460 cases, 13.5% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Roza Ridge 2009 Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills, $20:</b> Longtime Yakima Valley winery Hyatt Vineyards has been using the Roza Ridge label for a decade, and it pays tribute to to this area of the valley. This is a delicious and affordable Malbec that opens with aromas of espresso, black licorice, cherry tobacco and ripe raspberries. On the palate, this is a bold yet well-balanced wine with flavors of chocolate, cherries and raspberries. It offers a rich, creamy midpalate and a long, fruity finish. (129 cases, 14.4% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Dusted Valley Vintners 2009 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $42:</b> The Dusted Valley boys are out to prove they are masters of yet another up-and-coming red variety -- and to show Argentina a thing or two about Malbec. They blended 19% Cabernet Sauvignon into this wine to give it some backbone, and the results are delicious. This opens with aromas of black and blue fruits, vanilla and a sprinkling of cinnamon. On the palate, it's loaded with flavors of plums, golden raisins and cherry cola. It's a big, full wine with notes of black tea in the finish. (200 cases, 14.7% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Napeequa Vintners 2008 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $32:</b> This tiny winery in the Wenatchee National Forest town of Plain brought in Malbec from Verhey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley to craft this superb red. It opens with aromas of blackberries, leather, tobacco and vanilla. On the palate, it reveals flavors of blackberries, plums, chocolate and cherries. It is backed with ample acidity and a lingering finish. Pair this with a seared New York steak. (132 cases, 13.8% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $32:</b> Winemaker Robert Smasne goes to an area of Washington that is the sweet spot for red Bordeaux varieties, and he has crafted one of the top Malbecs in our competition. This is a beautifully structured red with aromas of tea leaf, blackberries and cherries, followed by flavors of cherry cola, vanilla and exotic spices. It is perfectly balanced and gives way to a lengthy finish. (71 cases, 13.9% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • <b>Obelisco Estate 2008 Estate Malbec, Red Mountain, $30:</b> Doug Long began growing wine grapes 40 years ago in Napa Valley. After retiring to Gig Harbor, Wash., he got back in the game in 2007 with this 30-acre vineyard on Red Mountain. This is a beautifully balanced Malbec with refreshingly modest alcohol, no small trick from the warmest growing region in Washington. This is a big, smoky, bold wine with aromas of cherries and s'mores, followed by clean and elegant flavors of ripe cherries and plums. (385 cases, 12.9% alc.) JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • Todd Newhouse's grapes from Snipes Mountain go into Malbec from Upland Estate Winery. JACKIE JOHNSTON
  • John Bookwalter has revamped his family winery to take a more literay theme.
  • Christian Sparkman (left) and Tom Thompson chat it up this summer at the Tulalip Resort Casino winemaker barbecue.
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The Fall 2012 issue of Wine Press Northwest includes features on Hispanic winemakers, our annual Great Northwest Wine Lists Competition and a blind tasting of Northwest Malbecs. JACKIE JOHNSTON

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