Best buy whites reviewed in the Summer 2010 issue of Wine Press Northwest.
Best Buy: Whites
Anne Amie Vineyards 2009 Cuvee A Estate Muller-Thurgau, Willamette Valley, $14. Outstanding: A legacy of its days at Chateau Benoit, these now 30-year-old vines still create arguably the Northwest's finest Muller-Thurgau. The fresh and inviting nose is loaded with lime, lychee nut, yellow grapefruit, fresh-squeezed orange juice and lilacs. Its clean, linear and fruit-forward approach continues, joined by honeydew melon and lip-smacking kumquat, orange and Granny Smith apple. There's just a touch of yeastiness, harkening to four months on the lees, yet it's dry (just 0.6% residual sugar) and refreshing. Suggested pairings include Asian, Creole or Mexican fare. (950 cases, 13% alc.)
Avery Lane Winery 2007 Chardonnay, Washington, $10. Outstanding: Again, here's proof one does need to do a lot or spend much to produce a likeable Chardonnay. The greeting begins with nose-ticking Jonagold apple, lemon, grapefruit, white pepper and a hint of butterscotch. Flavors of Golden Delicious apples and honeydew build on the palate, and the addition of Sauvignon Blanc (10%) lends a tangy crispness of grapefruit and some lemon pith for the finish. (3,000 cases, 13% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2009 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $10. Excellent: Tried and true sites Caroway, Crawford and Balcom & Moe allow Rob Griffin to continue his widely acclaimed success with this grape. Peaches and apple aromas include orange oil, minerality and fresh linen. There's a rush of the same tasty orchard fruit to the palate with tangerine acidity and Gala apple peel in the finish. Residual sugar sits at 1.2%. (7,130 cases, 11.9% alc.)
Canyon's Edge Winery 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills, $14. Recommended: The aromatics tilt toward juicy pineapple and Golden Delicious apple with citrus notes, grassiness and just a hint of gooseberry, but there's a supreme production of gooseberry on the palate. It's backed by fair bit of creamy orange, a snap of celery and a lengthy finish. (440 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9. Recommended: The Oct. 10 freeze ended ripening in Washington wine country, but this food-friendly and sophisticated style is focused on acidity, instead of sweetness (0.8% residual sugar.) Distinctive Riesling qualities show with green apple, peach, petrol and river rock with a squirt of tangerine. Granny Smith apple and tangerine acidity make for a mouthwatering finish and a rapid return. Enjoy with mild cheese, crab or curries. (48,000 cases, 13% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Harvest Select Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9. Excellent: A new style of Riesling emerges from the variety's biggest champion in the New World. It shoots for a sweet spot of 11% residual sugar, which is 10 times more than the Dry Riesling, but just a drop behind the Columbia Valley. An invitation of tropical fruit and Pink Lady apple aromas funnels into fruit cocktail flavors in a medium syrup. Succulent acidity drizzles into a finish of pears and Fee Brothers Cherry Bitters. (60,000 cases, 11% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Limited Release Viognier, Columbia Valley, $15. Outstanding: If the Vintage Reserve Club and tasting room sales don't, then the estate Summer Concert Series will drain the supply of this dry. Fruit from Goose Ridge Vineyard near Red Mountain made for a wide array of fruity aromas that include starfruit, kumquat, apple, pear and citrus, but there's a thread of minerality and fresh linen in the background. Kumquat slices on the palate with Fuji apple, ushered along by fascinating spritzy lemon/lime acidity, then finished with quinine. Enjoy with Orange Chicken or lightly breaded tilapia. (600 cases, 13% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9. Excellent: Looking at the size of the production might remind some of Tommy Tutone's song to Jenny. Could she be as tart as a Granny Smith apple and sweet as a white peach? Both are signs of arguably the most successful wine in the Northwest, yet there's more to the story with a swipe of chalkboard dust, a whiff of petrol and skipping a river rock. The pour brings guava and some mango on the entry, and then is fast-forwarded to Pink Lady apple and Bosc pear with more minerality and acidity that loiters. (647,275 cases, 12% alc.)
Covey Run Winery 2008 Fume Blanc, Columbia Valley, $9. Outstanding: Kate Michaud is responsible for some of the largest lots in the Northwest, and her attention to detail shows with this absolutely stunning Sauvignon Blanc. She worked with Art denHoed, Buoy and Smith vineyards to unleash classic aromatics of gooseberry, lychee and honeysuckle with enjoyable notes of wheat grass. Succulent flavors of orange, grapefruit and lemon make this tasty and refreshing with a high-acid, low-oak profile that marries the fruit and the herbaceous quality of the variety while keeping it nearly bone dry. (5,000 cases, 13% alc.)
Covey Run Winery 2008 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9. Excellent: Here's another case for Washington showing itself as one of the world's leaders for this German variety, both in scale, quality and value. Gala apple, slate, minerality and lemon aromas lead to more orchard fruit and a big blast of tangerine acidity from the midpalate on through. It's a mouth-watering finish to the sweetness, which is at 2.1% sugar. (65,000 cases, 12% alc.)
Covey Run Winery 2008 Reserve Late Harvest Riesling, Columbia Valley, $12. Recommended: This bottling is focused on the Jones family's Two Gun Vineyard near Quincy, and there's a reward of glaceed apricots, Jonagold apple, jasmine and Bit o' Honey. Late acidity and a mere 3.8% residual sugar allows gives this more vibrancy than one would expect from a dessert wine. (5,000 cases, 12.2% alc.)
Dusted Valley Vintners 2008 Boomtown Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $13. Excellent: A crack of the cap unloads a snootful of green apple, banana, Bosc pear, cantaloupe, lime, some minerality and a Circus Peanut. Its steely and crisp approach shows more of the apples and lime, along with nectarine and acidity that really gets the juices flowing. (1,800 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Eaton Hill Winery 2007 McGuire Vineyards Riesling, Yakima Valley, $10. Recommended: A baker could delight in drinking this wine with its hints of mom's apple pie, Banana's Foster, caramel apple and sweet potato pie. There's richness to the palate with more apples while its Riesling heritage shows with notes of petrol and minerality. There's just a hint of residual sugar (3.6%) in the finish. (190 cases, 14% alc.)
Hoodsport Winery 2008 Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley, $11. Excellent: Silver Lake's William Ammons also creates these wines, and this one takes you by surprise. The rich golden hue carries aromas of starfruit, gooseberry, orange peel and yellow grapefruit. Rather than tart or unripe, the palate shows pleasing and rounded flavors of sweetened citrus and starfruit. (1,109 cases, 11.8% alc.)
Hyatt Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris, Rattlesnake Hills, $10. Excellent: The label reads "Pinot Gris," but the additions of Muscat Ottonel (10%), Viognier (9%) and Riesling make this an especially showy glass. It's peachy and floral, backed by apricot, vanilla and orange Creamsicle. A thin line of lemony acidity strikes a balance, giving way to some late tartness. (378 cases, 13.1% alc.)
Hyatt Vineyards 2008 Riesling, Rattlesnake Hills, $10. Outstanding: Andy Gamache continues to be one of the region's most underrated winemakers for producing quality, quantity and value. Cool conditions at the end of the season allowed him to elicit aromas of Golden Delicious apple, apricot, peach, lychee and pear butter. The entry is sweet is akin to a peach melba, joined by more apples and apricots with tangerine-like acidity that continues to churn the flavors and balance the residual sugar (5%). (4,318 cases, 11% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners NV Fifth Edition Pure Platinum, Yakima Valley, $12. Excellent: Flint Nelson sticks with this fragrant and delicious blend of Gewurztraminer (52%) and Viognier from Kestrel View, Outlook and Stone Ridge vineyards. Aromas are huge with grapefruit, lychee, orange Creamsicle and orchard fruit. The drink is a complex and mouth-filling entry of fruit cocktail that continues to deliver Creamsicle and grapefruit. Spritzy acidity allows for dry and trailing finish, despite the residual sugar (1.3%). (3,000 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Kyra Wines 2009 Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley, $13. Recommended: Kyra Baerlocher points out the Oct. 10 freeze pinched her ultimate hopes for this vintage. Still, there's an appealing production of peaches and canned pear, along with varietal character of sugar cane and grassiness. Nice tartness and residual sugar of 2.55% adds to its yumminess and deck applications. (364 cases, 11% alc.)
Lone Canary Winery 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $10. Recommended: The bulk of the fruit came in on Sept. 12 from the Milbrandts' Northridge block, which allowed Mike Scott to highlight notes of starfruit, citrus, river rock and fresh-cut grass, while preserving the crisp acidity. (629 cases, 13% alc.)
Magnificent Wine Co. 2008 Fish House Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $13. Excellent: It's bone dry and grassy showing Granny Smith apples and gooseberry tones. A spoonful of fresh-squeezed lemon and gooseberry pie make it brassy on the palate and a good foil for steamed mussels. (5,000 cases, 12% alc.)
Magnificent Wine Co. 2008 House White, Columbia Valley, $13. Excellent: The base of Chardonnay (78%) gathers aromatic complexity by blending in Riesling (11%), Muscat (5%), Gewurztraminer (5%) and Pinot Gris, which provides hints of green apples, pears and grapefruit spice. There's nice lemony tartness and a lingering finish for summertime fare and enjoyment. (30,000 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Maryhill Winery 2008 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $15. Recommended: Stainless steel fermentation helps focus this drink on tones of apricots and crisp nectarines with pleasing tartness akin to grapefruit and lemon. (5,528 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Mercer Estates 2008 Riesling, Yakima Valley, $14. Excellent: David Forsyth ranged no more than five miles from his new Prosser, Wash., winery for these grapes from Cruz, Pontin and the estate Brooks vineyards. It shows a steely approach with notes of Granny Smith apple, firm nectarine, sugar cane, minerality, river rock, petrol and beeswax. The residual sugar of 1.3% is whisked clean. (2,403 cases, 12.7% alc.)
Mercer Estates 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $14. Recommended: Peach and lychee aromas are joined by gooseberry jam and diesel, a combination that continues in pleasing tartness onto the palate. The barrel treatment of the primary lot from Sagemoor Vineyard (40%) shows only in the finish. (7,504 cases, 12.9% alc.)
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Barrel Select Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, $13. Excellent: A rush of floral aromas includes honeysuckle and pineapple with barrel notes of banana and vanilla. There's a big hit of sweet canned peaches on the entry, a piece of butterscotch on the midpalate and Gala apple in the finish. (418 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Proprietor's Limited Release Gewurztraminer, Red Mountain, $15. Excellent: Washington state's smallest appellation doesn't devote much of its prized vineyards to this German white. Here's a success story that opens with a big hit of lychee, a whiff of scraped vanilla bean and grapefruit and quince aromas. Sweet tropical fruit flavors make for a delicious drink that's accented by orange and cloves in the finish. Adding a bit more Marsanne (12%) may have better balanced the residual sugar (1.4%). (155 cases, 14% alc.)
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Proprietor's Limited Release Viognier, Yakima Valley, $15. Recommended: An assortment of entry points to this bottling starts with green apples and pears poached with cloves and nutmeg, then follows with jicama and a Kettle Brand baked potato chip. A drizzle of Limeade adds brightness. (833 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2007 Rosetta Blanc, Yakima Valley, $13. Recommended: A nose-filling blend of Viognier (66%), Chardonnay (20%), Gewurztraminer (10%) and Muscat makes for tones of pear, lemon/lime, banana, petrol and clarified butter with starfruit tartness. Serve well chilled. (214 cases, 13.9% alc.)
OS Winery 2009 Champoux Vineyard Riesling, Horse Heaven Hills, $15. Recommended: It's rare to see vineyard-designated wines from Paul Champoux's coveted blocks in this category. Red Delicious apples, gooseberry, jasmine and orange blossom aromas expand on the palate with huge mouthwatering tangelo acidity to balance the residual sugar (2%). (238 cases, 9.8% alc.)
Pine & Post Winery 2007 Chardonnay, Washington, $8. Recommended: Mouthwatering tones of fruit cocktail, McIntosh apple and peach taffy make for an approachable drink with showy oak and a crisp lemony structure that finishes dry. (15,000 cases, 13% alc.)
Rio Vista Wines 2009 Estate Riesling, Columbia Valley, $15. Recommended: Notes of Golden Delicious apple, peach, lime and river rock are carried along by Granny Smith apple acidity for easy drinking at this winery on the banks of the Columbia River near Chelan, Wash. (128 cases, 12.7% alc.)
Samson Estates Winery 2008 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $15. Excellent: This winery in Everson, Wash., shows off many of this German variety's finer points, opening with notes of jasmine, apple blossom, lychee and apricot. Golden Delicious apple leads the box full of orchard fruit flavors on the palate. There's a fascinating nibble of nasturtium blossom in the midpalate, then a dash of lime juice to balance the tiny amount of sweetness. (120 cases, 12% alc.)
Scatter Creek Winery NV Peach Breeze White Wine, Yakima Valley, $13. Outstanding: Terril Keary deviates from the norm at times in his tiny Tenino, Wash., winery, and yet he delivers. Here, he takes Yakima Valley Chardonnay (88%) and adds peach juice, most of it after two weeks and with some French oak additions for a touch of creaminess. Peaches and apricots dominate the senses, backed by some tangerine, lemon and Fuji apples. It's a rich, rewarding and fanciful drink that carries a touch of sweetness (1.8% residual sugar). (220 cases, 12% alc.)
Upland Estates 2008 Gewurztraminer, Snipes Mountain, $14. Recommended: Pink grapefruit, green apple, marshmallow and cinnamon splash about in an off-dry style. (130 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Vale Wine Co. 2009 Dry Riesling, Snake River Valley, $14. Recommended: Peach, apples, kumquat show off some diesel and tropical notes in a dry fashion that closes with lemon and honeydew. (132 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Widgeon Hill Winery 2007 Viognier, Yakima Valley, $12. Recommended: Orange oil, lemon, petrol and toasted oak aromas merely wink at the wide-eyed appreciation of acidity that's akin to blood orange and yellow grapefruit with a slice of candied ginger. Enjoy with a green summer salad accented with chunks of grapefruit and yellow raisins. (38 cases, 13.5% alc.)
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