White wines reviewed in the Summer 2010 issue of Wine Press Northwest.
Chardonnay
Barnard Griffin 2008 Reserve Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $20. Recommended: Its style may barrel some over, but there's a fair amount of finesse inside to appreciate. Inviting oak aromas include dried pineapple, orange, apricot, green apple and banana, and there's delicious and easy integration of the fruit, wood and acid. (152 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Cinder Wines 2008 Chardonnay, Snake River Valley, $17. Excellent: Melanie Krause strives for balance of fruit, oak and acidity, and she's on the beam with this bottling that starts with tropical tones as well as apples, apricot, orchard blossom and light oak. A sweet entry awaits with pineapple and creamy banana. Acidity comes up quickly, catches some butterscotch and lingers with toast, apple and citrus pith in the finish. Enjoy with pumpkin bisque. (250 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2008 Chardonnay, Washington, $20. Recommended: The presence of new French oak doesn't rob the crop of nectarine, Granny Smith apples, lime and dried apricot in the nose, while adding Corn Pops and vanilla. Butterscotch shows up on the entry to the palate but gives way to flavors of Apple Crisp and kumquat. (397 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Dusted Valley Vintners 2008 Old Vines Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, $30. Recommended: Walla Walla's Wisconsin boys tapped into Kestrel View's 1972 plantings and developed an oak lover's Chard. Aromas range from Bananas Foster to marzipan and candy corn with some apple and Asian pear. That orchard fruit is more apparent on the palate, building with pineapple and unsulfured apricots, Grapefruit, juice and all, shows at the end. (205 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards 2008 Reserve Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $23. Recommended: Organically farmed fruit undergoes an extensive barrel program of new French and American oak. The top 10 of 16 barrels made it into this stylistic release that exudes baked pear, canned corn, caramel and heavy toast notes. Its structure is rich and creamy with a lemony finish. (240 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Hogue Cellars 2008 Genesis Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $16. Excellent: For those looking for creaminess but no oak in their Chardonnay, here's one to seek. Gala apple, lemon zest and the outer cut of a pineapple stand out in the aromas, backed by butterscotch and vanilla. Cream arrives on the palate with more apple and ripe pineapple. A burst of orange in the finish provides rewarding acidity. Suggested fare includes Caesar salad and fish tacos. (15,000 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2008 Falcon Series Estate Old Vine Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, $20. Recommended: Abundant oak and orchard fruit plays out in delicious form with sensations of mom's baked apple pie, only there's surprising lemony crispness in the finish. (886 cases, 13% alc.)
Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, $19 CDN Outstanding: Vines in the southern end of the Okanagan Valley and a blend of new American and French oak gave John Simes and his team the palette for a masterpiece. Hints of lovely spring orchard blossoms, pear and apple gain fascinating complexity from marshmallow, butterscotch and fennel. Golden Mile pears and nectarines push their way forward onto the fleshy palate with creamy butterscotch in the middle and a burst of lemon crispness in the finish. (2,800 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Patterson Cellars 2009 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $21. Excellent: Grapes next to the Gorge at George made a brief appearance in French oak, but it was long enough to make for a well-managed Chardonnay that can please both sides of the aisle. Pears, starfruit and apples sidle up to butterscotch aromas and some underlying minerality. Toasty tropical fruit flavors turn into Anjou pear on the rich midpalate, followed by a crisp finish. (161 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, $30. Excellent: Luisa Ponzi's reserve style shows skillful restraint with oak, allowing estate vineyards Aurora and Dion to express themselves. Whiffs of nectarine, grapefruit, cinnamon, clove, apple blossom, lemon pepper and lima bean are among the many descriptors. The palate plays out with pear and Golden Delicious apples, and there's a hint of a sweet biscuit before nice crispness and lemongrass take over. (825 cases, 14% alc.)
Stoller Vineyards 2009 JV Estate Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, $20. Excellent: Melissa Burr's deployment of screwcap signals a fresh and fruit-forward approach to Chardonnay, and there's a harvest of apples and pears from the "Junior Vines" on this eco-driven estate. Fresh grapefruit, lemon and kumquat flavors provide crispness and lengthy tartness. (417 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Stoller Vineyards 2007 SV Estate Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, $28. Recommended: Fruit from "Senior Vines" in a challenging vintage receives a cork closure and French oak, which remains in the background of Asian pear, melon and steely aromas. The barrel looms large inside, where sweet tropical fruit flavors vie with butterscotch. (623 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Vale Wine Co. 2009 Chardonnay, Snake River Valley, $16. Recommended: Lemon, sandalwood, Italian herbs and sweet oak flash in and out of this slightly creamy Chardonnay, which closes with butterscotch and banana. (112 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Riesling
CedarCreek Estate Winery 2008 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN Excellent: Green apple, racy lemon zest, diesel notes and the drop amount of residual sugar (0.8%) give this a Germanic feel and should pair nicely with ahi tuna or authentic Mexican food. (1,206 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Limited Release Waussie Riesling, Columbia Valley, $17. Excellent: White winemaker Wendy Stuckey moved to Washington from Australia in 2007, and this is her contribution to the "Little Guys" project. The aromas spotlight apples, pear, blood orange, lemon, slate and a hint of green banana. It's slightly spritzy on the palate with peaches and pears, backed by blood orange acidity. At 0.7% residual sugar, it's the driest of any Riesling in the company's portfolio. Heck, they even let her put it under screwcap. (650 cases, 13% alc.)
Kettle Valley Winery 2008 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, $26 CDN Recommended: Harvest of this fruit ended Nov. 1, and the results are hints of dried apricots, peaches, Golden Delicious apple, jasmine, a piece of Bit o Honey and late minerality. It's remarkably low in alcohol and just a touch off-dry. (200 cases, 9.8% alc.)
Vale Wine Co. 2009 Estate Riesling, Snake River Valley, $20. Recommended: Green apple, peaches and apricots take center stage, but there's support from mango and lemony acidity. (75 cases, 12.8% alc.)
Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Lehm Dry Riesling, Chelan County, $25. Recommended: Estate fruit combines with some across the lake at Tsillan Cellars to create an array of descriptors that include dried mango, pear, lemon and jasmine. Larry Lehmbecker projects that this terroir-driven wine will improve in the next 2-3 years. (300 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Wines of Substance 2008 Re Riesling, Washington, $20. Outstanding: Aromas produced by this young label in Walla Walla run the gamut of kiwi, center cut of the pineapple, jasmine, lime peel, celery stalk and burnt sugar. There's more sweet pineapple and mango on the entry, but Granny Smith apple and grapefruit in the midpalate give it the sense of exploding acidity. A piece of butterscotch in the finish makes it a very complex Riesling. Enjoy with white fish or shellfish. (
Pinot Gris
Anne Amie Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $19. Recommended: A refreshing absence of oak allows for aromatics of pineapple, cinnamon-sugared apple, quinine and fresh-picked cotton. On the supple palate, think of biting into lemon meringue pie, followed by more apple and dried pineapple. (3,400 cases, 13.5% alc.)
CedarCreek Estate Winery 2009 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN Recommended: Pear, starfruit, a hint of minerality and grapefruit are presented in a dry style with pleasant tartness and mouthwatering acidity. (4,184 cases, 14.1% alc.)
King Estate 2008 Domaine Pinot Gris, Oregon, $25. Excellent: Purity of organic fruit allows this to shine from the start to finish with pineapple, starfruit, dried apricot and orange oil with some candy corn, minerality and celery in the background. Pleasing weight earns this a spot before or during the meal. (3,900 cases, 13 alc.%
Lake Breeze Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN Recommended: The Patio at Lake Breeze serves its food with these wines while you overlook Okanagan Lake. Bartlett pear and apricot aromas are joined by lots of grapefruit, melon and lingering starfruit. See if the seared scallops are in. (1,100 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Ponzi Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $17. Excellent: Fanfare for their handling of Pinot Gris has grown so since their first plantings of the variety in 1978 that 12 vineyards were cast into the production. Luisa Ponzi links this vintage to those in 2002 and 2006 for the acidity created. Aromas feature whiffs of grapefruit, lemon/lime, apple, gooseberry, fresh-sliced strawberries and wet stone. Honeydew melon and sugared lime make it delicately sweet on the palate, backed by citrusy acidity. Enjoy with grilled chicken, poached fish or a cheese plate. (14,000 cases, 13.6% alc.)
RoxyAnn Winery 2008 Pinot Gris, Rogue Valley, $17. Recommended: This bottling pays the bills at this expanding winery in Medford, Ore. Unlike many in the Willamette Valley, it's a fruit-forward Pinot Gris with lots of dusty pear, starfruit, jicama, apple and citrusy aromas and flavors that are capped by sweetened lemon juice. (3,545 cases, 13.9% alc.)
RoxyAnn Winery 2008 Reserve Pinot Gris, Rogue Valley, $20. Recommended: A blend of Pleasant View and Thirkel vineyards, the surlie aging in French oak shows with fresh popcorn in the aromas, backed by pear, lemon pepper, freshly sliced zucchini and river rock. McIntosh apple, creamy lemon, honey nougat and pear flavors bring easy enjoyment, ushered along by bold acidity that carries into canned corn notes. (255 cases, 14% alc.)
VX Vercingetorix Vineyard 2008 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $18. Outstanding: Jason Silva of Arcane Cellars assumed command of the winemaking for Willamette Farms of Oregon's winery, and he's made an immediate impact. A boost of Riesling (3%) allowed him to develop scents of fresh-picked Bartlett pear, Honeycrisp apple, cotton candy, lemon and some minerality. it's an elegant, simple and well-balanced drink of Bosc pear, apples, kiwi fruit, tangerine and a squirt of lime. (91 cases, 12.9% alc.)
Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Lehm Pinot Gris, Chelan County, $20. Excellent: Larry Lehmbecker straddles the oaky and fruit-forward styles with this blend of Michaela's Vineyard and Fallon Vineyard. On the nose, there's clementine, kiwi, lemon peel, jasmine, along with the oak influences of angel food cake and butterscotch pudding. It's clean and austere drink of Asian pear, unsweetened lemon, some yeastiness and a flake of purple SweeTart candy. (220 cases, 13% alc.)
Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc
Amavi Cellars 2008 Semillon, Walla Walla Valley, $20. Excellent: Jean François-Pellet crafted a delicious and elegant drink to help christen the deck of their new tasting facility on Pepper Bridge Road. There's a sense of pear pie on a Graham cracker crust and brown sugar in the nose, a gift of French oak treatment, along with tangerine and pineapple. Pear and pineapple make their way on the viscous entry to the mouth, where the tartness of Sauvignon Blanc (11%) and late minerality add complexity. (499 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Challenger Ridge Vineyard and Winery 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Yakima Valley, $18. Recommended: Barrel fermenting and some surlie aging of this lot from Prosser's Stepping P Vineyards exudes tropical tones of pineapple and citrus fruit with lemongrass, subtle oak and pleasing weight in the mouth. (132 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2009 Falcon Series Old Vine Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $20. Recommended: A theme of stone fruit, jasmine, starfruit and minerality takes a very steely approach, courtesy of the Smith-Cerne Vineyard near The Dalles, Ore. A squeeze of lime in the midpalate provides ample acidity. (580 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Kettle Valley Winery 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, British Columbia, $24 CDN Excellent: Our 2009 B.C. Winery of the Year doesn't restrict itself to Okanagan Valley fruit as the bulk of these grapes hail from the Secord Vineyard in the Silmilkameen Valley. Inviting aromas include pineapple, pear, apple blossoms and air-popped popcorn. Its clean and tasty flavor profile features oranges with Golden Delicious apple, subtle acidity and a touch of lime peel. (650 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Lake Breeze Vineyards 2009 Seven Poplars Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, $22. Recommended: This Naramata Bench winery denotes this as its top tier and drops 30% of the fruit in barrel fermentation. Gooseberry, tomcat, lemongrass, fresh-cut celery and green apple accents provide lingering tartness and mild acidity. (400 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Lehm Sauvignon Blanc, Chelan County, $20. Recommended: There's no shortage of citrusy and mouthwatering acidity, backed by underlying flintiness, freshly laundered linen, pillow mints and a scoop of lemon sorbet. (190 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Viognier
Abacela 2009 Estate Viognier, Umpqua Valley, $20. Excellent: One of the first grapes to come off the Fault Line Vineyards reaps quick rewards. Orange Creamsicle, dusty apple, orchard blossom and lots of river rock notes fill the nose. Huge complexity awaits the drinker with Asian pear, jasmine and lemon curd flavors. For this variety, there's a remarkable amount of acidity and some orange pith bitterness in the finish. Thankfully, its screwcap should hold this still for a couple of years. (295 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2009 Crawford Viognier, Yakima Valley, $20. Excellent: Inviting notes of lychee, orange Creamsicle and talcum powder turn very complex in the mouth with a tropical cocktail feel. Sweet orange flavors, light cream and late citrus make this quite a quaffer. (
Cinder Wines 2009 Viognier, Snake River Valley, $17. Outstanding: It's no surprise this took Best Idaho Wine at the Northwest Wine Summit. Fascinating aromas start with pineapple upside down cake, blood orange, cottage cheese, alder smoke and creme brûlee. There's tremendous presence in the mouth with tasty pineapple and apricot. Clove and fresh-sliced cucumber show the midpalate, then it's finished with a slice of Key Lime pie, right down to the slices of the peel and a touch of balancing bitterness in the back. (400 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2008 L'Artiste Viognier, Washington, $24. Excellent: Four vineyards in four appellations in Washington - Lonesome Springs, McKinley Springs, Milbrandt's Clifton and Stillwater Creek - each contribute 25% of the fruit for this graceful effort from our reigning Idaho Winery of the Year. Sliced lemon, apple blossoms, ginger, fresh linen and pencil lead begin to describe the aromas. It's nicely weighted on the palate with lemon cream and coconut, whisked along by grapefruity acidity. (195 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2008 Viognier, Washington, $20. Recommended: While it shares the same vineyard sources as the L'Artiste, this bottling shows more influence of oak and surlie aging with hints of tropical fruit, butterscotch and alder smoke. Racy acidity, creamy mango and citrus pith accents should lend this to herb-rubbed chicken or a bowl of Vietnamese pho. (693 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Dusted Valley Vintners 2008 Viognier, Yakima Valley, $26. Excellent: The quest for acid-laced whites leads in-laws Corey Braunel and Chad Johnson into Kestrel View and Lonesome Spring Ranch for a full-on Viognier that speaks volumes. It whispers mango, lemon and a twist of lime before delivering quenching blasts of pear, grapefruit and Key Lime. Drink a glass of this as a refreshing alternative to gin and tonic. (350 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Fraser Vineyard 2009 Viognier, Snake River Valley, $17. Excellent: Bill Fraser's vineyard at 2,700 feet elevation produced notes of apricots, Orange Julius and lemongrass in a flavorful fashion. His use of oak creates a sense of silkiness on the midpalate, but grapefruit acidity and pith wring out that creaminess. (180 cases, 14% alc.)
Hogue Cellars 2008 Genesis Viognier, Columbia Valley, $16. Excellent: Lead winemaker Co Dinn treats this Viognier to some oak, unlike the Genesis Chardonnay. What that does is create a sense of baked Key Lime pie in the nose and a lemon meringue pie on the palate. There's a skill to the balance among acidity, creaminess and oak (4,000 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Rio Vista Wines 2009 Antoine Creek Vineyards Viognier, Columbia Valley, $20. Recommended: John Little's winery is a short boat ride downstream from Wells Dam on the Columbia River, and Ed Haskell's vineyard is nearby. The collaboration features citrus fruit flavors, some midpalate creaminess then a return of citrus in the finish. (66 cases, 13.5% alc.)
RoxyAnn Winery 2008 Viognier, Rogue Valley, $20. Excellent: This portion of Oregon continues to excel with Rhone varieties. Huge tropical fruit aromas grab some hints of Muscat, starfruit, Uncola and lemon Starburst candy. Pears and pineapple fill the surprising dry palate, joined by vanilla creaminess and topped with a slice of maraschino cherry. (1,091 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Spangler Vineyards 2009 Viognier, Southern Oregon, $20. Excellent: There's a balance of fruit and oak in the aromas with pineapple, apricot, mango, oranges and light toast. Oranges and bananas on the creamy palate make it a delicious drink, while ample acidity balances the residual sugar (1.2%). Any pretense is removed because the Spanglers put this in the alternative Zork closure. (215 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Tefft Cellars 2009 Viognier, Rattlesnake Hills, $18. Recommended: Orange Creamsicle and apple crisp aromas and flavors make for a good drink, which gains favor from sliced apricots and lemony acidity. Enjoy with chicken salad. (110 cases, 13% alc.)
Walter Dacon Wines 2008 Viognier, Yakima Valley, $22. Recommended: This scaling of Elephant Mountain Vineyard attains dusty orchard fruit, mango and jasmine for a ride that's steely, then sweet with some orange bitters in the finish. (327 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Other whites
Abacela 2009 Estate Albarino, Umpqua Valley, $18. Outstanding: Earl Jones continues to commit more acreage to this Iberian variety, and his team delivers a big victory. By eschewing oak, winemaker Andrew Wenzl allows for a cross-current of fruit to gush, and the amazingly complex aroma profile includes quince, dusty apple, Circus Peanut candy, orange and pineapple. Of course the annual hallmark of this wine is its bracing acidity and flaky minerality on the entry. And yet there's peach, pineapple, apple and French vanilla flavors and a remarkable lemon cream in the farewell. (1,148 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Anne Amie Vineyards 2008 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley, $20. Recommended: Scharf Vineyard in Polk County delivered all the fruit for this oak-influenced drink with aromas that touch on starfruit, gooseberry, grapefruit, apple, cola nut, filberts, vanilla, flannel and sandpaper. Similar tartness shows with grapefruit and Golden Delicious apple flavors, but there's complexity with vanilla cream and creme brulee in the finish. Enjoy with rotisserie chicken. (500 cases, 13.6% alc.)
CedarCreek Estate Winery 2009 Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN Recommended: A cross of Riesling and Silvaner, it offers notes of Granny Smith apple, lychee nut and lime in a dry style with delicate acidity. (1,481 cases, 13.8% alc.)
CedarCreek Estate Winery 2009 Gewurztraminer, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN Excellent: Longtime winemaker Tom DiBello left this hugely aromatic Gewurz as a legacy. It provides scents of yellow grapefruit, gooseberry and lychee, then delivers a steady stream of grapefruit and tangerine to the tongue. Its residual sugar is 0.9%. (2,842 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Gewurztraminer, Willamette Valley, $18. Outstanding: If you smell grapefruit, then you're likely on the trail of Gewurztraminer, and such is the harbinger of this delightful bottling by Forrest Klaffke. The drink zeroes in on lightly sugared yellow grapefruit and succulent gooseberry and orange acidity for complexity and crispness, and sweetness - just 0.6% - isn't an issue. Tualatin Estate's plantings include six acres of Gewurz, but this marked the first bottling since 2003. A sip of this prompts requests to keep it going and growing. (89 cases, 13% alc.)
White blends
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2009 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Shepherds Mark White Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, $20. Excellent: Jarrod Boyle's annual expression with Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier ranks as a Northwest trendsetter for white Rhone blends. Tangerine, orange oil, fresh fig and lavender aromas also come through to the sweet entry on the palate. Pear butter and vanilla cream add richness, and there's acidity to balance it. (471 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Anne Amie Vineyards 2009 Cuvee Amrita, Willamette Valley, $16. Outstanding: A delicious and fascinating deck wine, its blend of Chardonnay (44%), Muller-Thurgau (29%), Viognier (15%) and Pinot Gris comes via the estate Twelve Oaks and Chateau LeBeau in Sherwood, Ore. Dusty apple, jasmine, lemon/lime, vanilla and honeysuckle aromas are revived on the palate. Flavors are like a box of Froot Loops with sprightly acidity that slices through with lingering lime and minerality (1,050 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2008 No. 6 White, Washington, $16. Excellent: Barrel Room No. 6, Kimber Gates' tasting facility a short walk from the famed North Idaho resort, reopened this summer, and here's a delicious wine for a warm day. The blend of Viognier (53%), Semillon (36%) and Riesling offers up aromas of Juicy Fruit gum and a banana milk shake along with tangerine and some oak toast. On the palate is a delicious and delicate presentation of Mandarin orange, pears, apple, grapefruit and strawberry. (235 cases, 13.1% alc.)
Rio Vista Wines 2009 Estate Sunset on the River, Columbia Valley, $20. Recommended: A blend of Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, it's a serving of apricot, fresh-cut Golden Delicious apples and blood orange in an off-dry delivery at 1.6% residual sugar. (98 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Sleight of Hand Cellars 2008 The Magician, Columbia Valley, $17. Excellent: When Trey Busch launched his small winery in Walla Walla, he began by bottling this in screwcap. That makes it easy to get at this easy-to-like blend of Gewurztraminer (85%) and Riesling. Aromas of pears, apple, honeysuckle, lemon curd and coconut milk send the mind spinning. There's a continuation of that orchard fruit, deliciously balanced with lingering grapefruit and lemon acidity, finished dry (0.8% residual sugar) with citrus pith. (495 cases, 12.7% alc.)
Stag's Hollow Winery 2008 Viognier-Marsanne, Okanagan Valley, $25 CDN Excellent: Klin House Vineyard in nearby Penticton, B.C., gave Dwight Sick what he needed for a delicious drink that showcases Viognier (83%) but not too much of the new French oak employed. Pink grapefruit, orange Creamsicle, fresh linen, gooseberry and chalkboard dust fill the nose. It's unsweetened pink grapefruit on the entry, a bit of orange oil and honey wax in the midpalate, then spritzy acidity from tangerine and lime brighten the backend. (45 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Roses
Abacela 2009 Estate Grenache Rose, Umpqua Valley, $14. Excellent: Particular blocks are targeted for this pink and perfumy sipper that opens with pomegranate, Rainier cherry, persimmon, cinnamon and vanilla aromas. Boysenberries and citrus spill onto the palate with bright acidity and a resumption of the pomegranate and cherry. There's no show of tannin, making this quite quaffable, with a bite of Cameo apple in the finish. (289 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Anne Amie Vineyards 2009 Cuvee A Midnight Saignee Rose of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $15. Recommended: While not vibrant on appearance, it's filled with strawberry and tangerine tones and skillfully balances the sweetness (0.57% residual sugar). The finish is extended with raspberries and Hermiston watermelon. Enjoy with a cheese and fruit plate. (500 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Cinder Wines 2009 Rose Table Wine, Snake River Valley, $14. Recommended: This rose of Syrah is presented dry and features strawberry jam, cranberry, plums, watermelon, nectarine, a piece of peppermint and lots of acidity. Enjoy with ceviche. (180 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2009 Falcon Series Rose, Yakima Valley, $12. Recommended: A wide-ranging blend of Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre, Grenache, Petit Verdot and Tempranillo looks lovely and comes off a bit shy in the nose. When it comes to the drink, it's easy to like with a fuller expression of plums, Hermiston watermelon, huckleberry and dried strawberry. And at less than 1% residual sugar, it's not too clingy. (580 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Kiona Vineyards Winery 2007 Rose of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $15. Excellent: Typically, pinks don't show this well at this age. Here's an exception from Scott Williams. Aromas are reminiscent of strawberry/rhubarb jam, sugared ruby red grapefruit, a candied apple and cherry Jolly Rancher candy. The delicious and lightly structured drink is of fruit punch and a watermelon Jolly Rancher. While off-dry, serve cold and with a ham sandwich or convert a white Zin lover. (450 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Lone Canary Winery 2007 Cuvee Rose, Columbia Valley, $10. Recommended: Mike Scott left this Spokane winery last year, and his work with Sauvignon Blanc ranked among the most diverse in the Northwest. Here, all it took was 3% of Barbera from Milbrandt Vineyards to make it a pink. Aromas include strawberry, rhubarb, blueberry and slight whiff of the white Bordeaux variety's telltale "tomcat." Blueberry and strawberry return in the flavors, joined by strawberry. There's a tich of sweetness, but the acidity holds it up as its finished with a hint of Red Delicious apple. (256 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Ponzi Vineyards 2009 Rosato Pinot Noir Rose, Willamette Valley, $17. Recommended: Its shade of salmon comes with dried strawberry, cherry, watermelon and apricot notes delivered inside cleansing acidity. Cherry skin provides just a bit of tannin. (1,033 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Tefft Cellars 2009 Rosato d'Sangiovese, Rattlesnake Hills, $22. Recommended: A delicious adult version of Hawaiian Punch, it's loaded with strawberry, sweet cherry and grapefruit notes. At 2.5% residual sugar, it's made for serving cold and quaffing. (114 cases, 12% alc.)
Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Lehm Michaela's Vineyard Rose of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $15. Excellent: Larry Lehmbecker developed an ideal ingredient for his cafe with this dry, barrel-aged pink. Showy aromas include strawberry, peach, president plum and hydrangea blossom. There's a depth of fruit and good mouth feel in the medium body with strawberry, apricot and pineapple, pushed through by strong acidity. (87 cases, 12.8% alc.)
Sparkling
Kramer Vineyards NV Semi-Sparkling Muller-Thurgau, Oregon, $15. Excellent: The Kramers make several batches of this each year, carbonating each one in high-pressure tanks for a week at a time. Those bubbles burst with lychee, peaches, apricot, mango grapefruit and a flake of minerality. There's a delicious orchard fruit/Uncola approach to the flavors, only the light frothiness makes this adult drink easier to manage. It's nicely balance with just a drop of sweetness (1.5%). (65 cases, 10.5% alc.)
Kramer Vineyards NV Semi-Sparkling Pinot Gris, Oregon, $15. Recommended: It's processed in the same manner as the Muller-Thurgau, only Pinot Gris does not offer the aromatics or tropicality. Instead, this features starfruit, Asian pear, tangerine and lemon with a hint of bread yeast. And the residual sugar (0.75%) is half that of the M-T. (130 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Tualatin Estate 2009 Semi-Sparkling Muscat Frizzante, Willamette Valley, $15. Outstanding: Evaluating this release each year comes with perhaps the biggest challenge a wine judge faces - how do you avoid swallowing? The folks at Willamette Valley Vineyards craft this in such a fun style, it's nearly impossible not to come back for a satisfying sip. Huge tropical notes include lychee and honeysuckle, joined by tangerine, apricot and pear juice. That itsy bit of fizz keeps it interesting time and again. (1,964 cases, 6.5% alc.)
Fruit wines
Heymann Whinery NV Cranberry Wine, Washington, $14. Outstanding: Three years in a row Centralia, Wash., vintner Bob Heymann has received our top rating for this delicious fruit wine. Impeccable color gets your juice flowing. Next come succulent aromas of ripe strawberry and then deep cranberry. Sweet berries leap out of the glass, balanced by Sauvignon Blanc-ish acidity. Terrific tartness completes this dangerous package for adult and conjures up thoughts of Thanksgiving turkey. (412 cases, 12% alc.)
Hoodsport Winery NV Raspberry Wine, Washington, $13. Recommended: One of the Northwest's most popular fruit wines stays true to form with raspberry and vanilla cream textures. It's smooth and balanced, showing less sweetness than in years past, bringing green tea tannin in the finish. Enjoy chilled on the patio or served with a fresh-baked brownie. (600 cases, 12% alc.)
Dessert wines
Eaton Hill Winery 2003 Orange Muscat, Yakima Valley, $24. Outstanding: A fascinating little drink, it's showing some age with caramel and almond tones, and there a bit of heat. Yet the product of Emery & Sons and Rogers vineyards remains true to the variety with tones of orange, apricot and spice character. The drink is smooth, not overly sweet at 4% residual sugar and succulent because of its bright acidity. (125 cases, 15% alc.)
EdenVale Winery 2003 Late Harvest Viognier, Rogue Valley, $25. Excellent: Few folks in the Northwest make dessert from this white Rhone variety, and this is likely one of the first efforts. Seven years hence, it doesn't appear to be slowing down. Rich aromas remain captured, including pineapple butterscotch, glaceed apricot, honey and hazelnut. Its flavor profile is a menu of desserts - creme brûlee, orange sherbet, pineapple upside-down cake, butterscotch and honey. Only in the finish of caramel does the alcohol and age show. (403 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Horizon's Edge Winery 2007 Late Harvest Muscat Canelli, Rattlesnake Hills, $13. Excellent: Widely believed to be the world's oldest variety, David Padgett's bottling of estate fruit yields delicate notes of tangerine, grapefruit, honeysuckle and sugar cane with a creamy mouth feel and late acidity to balance the residual sugar (10%). (210 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Maison de Padgett Winery 2008 Funky Monkey Winter Harvest, Rattlesnake Hills, $18. Excellent: Some of the Northwest's best dry roses are made with Sangiovese, but using the Italian grape for dessert is virtually unheard of. In the hands of David Padgett, though, all that's funky about it is the moniker. There's a vibrant reddish-pink to the color while tantalizing strawberry, boysenberry, cherry and cranberry aromas get pushed by fragrant Muscat Canelli (20%). It's a delicious drink of cherries and cranberries that carries a residual sugar of 14%. (210 cases, 12.2% alc.)
Patterson Cellars 2009 Late Harvest Roussanne, Columbia Valley, $22. Excellent: A mid-November harvest off Willard Farms near Prosser, Wash., three months of used French oak and Sauterne yeast gave John Patterson the tools for a fascinating dessert. There's a kaleidoscope of descriptors including apricot preserves, baked pear, grilled pineapple, some brown toast, butterscotch and honey. Orange zest acidity and orange marmalade bitterness keep the residual sugar (18%) in balance. Try serving this with peach cobbler. (137 cases, 11.5% alc.)
Ste. Chapelle 2008 Late Harvest Cabernet Franc, Snake River Valley, $10. Recommended: Late harvest can come early in Idaho, and these were pulled off Oct. 7. That resulted notes of strawberry rhubarb jam, syrupy plums, apricot and tangerine. With the red hue and residual sugar of 18%, you entertain thoughts of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. (550 cases, 9% alc.)
Ste. Chapelle 2008 Late Harvest Riesling, Snake River Valley, $10. Excellent: Chuck Devlin took the Riesling one day later than his Cab Franc, and the results are even more impressive. He stays true to the variety with apple, pear, apricot and honeysuckle tones. The acid balance gives the impression of eating sweet apple pie and lemon chiffon pie. Devlin points out that dessert wines are intended to be your dessert, so make sure your the dish you are pairing for dessert is less sweet than the wine. (550 cases, 10% alc.)
Westport Winery NV Pineapple Express, Washington, $25. Excellent: The Roberts' unique blend of Gewurztraminer, Riesling and pineapple juice sails through the nostrils and between the lips with added notes of apricot and lemon cream. Acidity from the Riesling balances the residual sugar (14%). This should be delicious with a slice of Canadian bacon and pineapple pizza that' comes with a white sauce. (464 cases, 11% alc.)
Port style
Abacela 2007 Estate Port, Umpqua Valley, $25. Outstanding: One could call this the Northwest's most honest Port-style wine for a variety of reasons, starting with Earl Jones' adherence to Portuguese varieties Tempranillo (53%), Bastardo (19%), Tinta Amarela (13%), Tinta Cáo (9%) and Touriga Naçional (6%). The experience opens with mature aromas of blueberry, black cherry and dark toast. Fruit, oak and alcohol already are adroitly integrated on the palate with rich blackberry, black cherry, blueberry and Belgian chocolate flavors. And this is doubled the production of the 2006 vintage. (514 cases, 19% alc.)
David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Muscat Port, Willamette Valley, $28. Excellent: Vines first planted in 1965 merely add to the fascination with this unusual yet delicious drink that may require some education because Port-style wines created from white grapes are rare in our region. There's just a hint of charred whisky barrel in the background, which mostly covered up by honeysuckle, orange peel, grapefruit and Spanish almond aromas. It's akin to creme brulee between the lips and a broad mouthcoating drink of honey and attractive vanilla, cleansed slightly by grapefruity acidity. The final reward is a nibble of fig in the finish. (141 cases, 18.2% alc.)
David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2005 Estate Pinot Noir Port, Willamette Valley, $38. Recommended: Four years of life in French oak shows with heavy accents of toffee over the top of black cherry, cracked black pepper, cedar and baked brownie. (80 cases, 18.2% alc.)
Gingko Forest Winery 2008 Late Harvest Syrah, Wahluke Slope, $22. Outstanding: Dense aromas include black cherry, brown sugar, caramel, raisins, fennel and absinthe. It's a rich, smooth and delightful with flavors of blackberry jam, cherry and amaretto, and the sugar (4%), alcohol and acidity strike an accord. Enjoy it with a brownie or a slice of chocolate cherry cake. (
Maison de Padgett Winery NV Smoking Gun Coffee Port, Yakima Valley, $19. Excellent: Made from coffee, it exudes aromas of, yes, coffee, but also toasted filberts, smoky almonds and vanilla bourbon. It's a smooth cafe mocha on the palate and hints of Nutella on toast in the finish. The addition of spirits was not heavy handed as the alcohol does not overwhelm, but it might be too sweet for some. (210 cases, 19.2% alc.)
Horizon's Edge Winery NV Wishful Thinking Port, Yakima Valley, $19. Outstanding: No one in the Northwest develops as many different after-dinner drinks as David Padgett in Zillah, Wash. We've counted six between his two labels, but he could have come up with another since this. This is akin to a liquefied chocolate bar as the nose is reminiscent of a Mounds with a slice of strawberry. Across the lips it's a Tootsie Pop then an Almond Joy in the finish, and there's no bite of alcohol. A glass of this in the evening might lead to a tap on your honey's thigh and more than just a Hershey's Kiss. (210 cases, 19.5% alc.)
Kettle Valley Winery NV Starboard Port-style, Naramata Bench, $24 CDN Recommended: Bordeaux varieties Malbec and Petit Verdot off the estate King Drive block supply power to this French oak influenced sipper. Plum, cassis, rich toffee and dark chocolate are found in the aromas and flavors. Pie cherry acidity overtakes the alcohol until giving way to bittersweet chocolate tannins. The sugar sits at 10.5%. (160 cases, 19% alc.)
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Quinta Reserva Pinot Noir Port Style, Oregon, $50. Excellent: Aging on the lees for 26 months made for some majesty not normally associated with Port-style wines made from Pinot Noir. Black cherry, strawberry, vanilla and orange peel aromas re-emerge on the tongue. There's a lot of sweetness (9.3% residual sugar), late tannin and nice acidity leading to a finish of coffee. (108 cases, 18% alc.)
Print
E-Mail
