Red wines reviewed in the Summer 2010 issue of Wine Press Northwest.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Barnard Griffin 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $17. Outstanding: Last fall, the 2007 vintage of this wine earned a rare Double Platinum from Wine Press Northwest. Well, its little brother is coming of age. While not a big wine, there's lots of complexity, starting in the nose of boysenberry, black currants, vanilla bean, pink peppercorns and cedar. Black cherry and more boysenberry and vanilla flavors make for a dang smooth wine that's supported by blueberry acidity, late tannins and lingering black fruit in the finish. Often, this wine can be found at grocery stores and liquor shops for less than $15. (6,500 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $40. Outstanding: Owner/winemaker Rob Griffin describes this as "deftly balanced," and there's no disputing the coalescence of Sagemoor and Alder Ridge berries. Classic Cab hints of cassis are joined by raspberry jam, boysenberry, brown sugar and chocolate cake. That same black fruit gathers up blackberry for density on the palate, which brings integration, supple tannins and a wonderfully long finish of currant jam. (288 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Barrister Winery 2007 Sagemoor Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $33. Excellent: When it comes to the three major Bordeaux varieties, few in the Northwest match the level of quality of these two Spokane members of the bar. There's a very plummy note to the aromas, along with boysenberry, juniper berry and barrel accents of chocolate and root beer. Its blackberry jam and plum flavors show the signs of Syrah (10%), yet there's a rush of acidity and the good grip of Cab tannin. (210 cases, 15.2% alc.)
Canyon's Edge Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $24. Excellent: This multi-generation operation continues to grow, adding a second tasting room in Kennewick's bustling Southridge area. The offering of cassis, Rainier cherries, raspberries and chocolate features sandy tannins, ample acidity and a structure akin to a Bordeaux style. (970 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $16. Outstanding: It's mind-numbing just how much quality and diversity go through this Woodinville, Wash., tasting room. In this case, part of Bob Bertheau's "secret sauce" is the addition of Syrah (15%). Beautiful oak imparts notes of Theo's chocolate and Tully's coffee amid hints of cassis, cherries and forest floor. Sweet and integrated tannins provide structure to the overall smoothness and lingering finish of chocolate and cherries. (150,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Dumas Station Wines 2006 Minnick Hills Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $60. Excellent: A century ago, this Dayton, Wash., property began producing apples for the world. Now, it's beginning to create wines that stand out in a world-famous valley. Jay DeWitt and Doug Harvey collaborated for a bottling that's big on blackberries, espresso and Nestle Crunch aromas, joined also by complexity of red pepper flakes, cedar and bell pepper. Smooth and seamless is the structure with blackberries, cassis, a cafe mocha and marionberry acidity with firm tannins. (95 cases, 15.3% alc.)
Hightower Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $35. Excellent: The 10th anniversary of the flagship from this Red Mountain boutique winery has its foundation on estate fruit, assisted by Alder Ridge (18%) and Pepper Bridge (9%). Wonderful aromas send out whiffs of cassis, Chukar Cherry, blackberry, lavender, vanilla bean and cedar. There's a nice fruit core on the palate with more blackberry and cherry, supported by firm and frontal yet integrated tannins, and coffee in the finish. (272 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $22. Excellent: One of Prosser's largest wineries goes beyond estate fruit (29%) and into McKinley Springs (32%), Elephant Mountain (21%) and Olsen Estate for this Cab, resulting in a theme of black cherry, blackberry, plums, coffee and a slice of bell pepper. Enjoy with prime rib or a T-bone. (2,096 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2007 Winemaker Select Two Ton Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $40. Recommended: A block in which Cabernet Sauvignon vines are clipped to one cluster per shoot makes for 16 clusters per vine - aka two tons per acre - leads to notes of cassis, blackberry, pencil shavings, chocolate, alfalfa and saddle leather. (280 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Mercer Estates 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $23. Excellent: A stately effort, David Forsyth pulled from McKinley Springs, Desert Wind and Zephyr Ridge - vineyards he knows like the back of his hand from his decades at Hogue Cellars. The nose only could sell this wine, rich with cassis, dusty cherries, tar, crushed oregano, chocolate and eucalyptus. Payday comes in mouth-filling boldness from Bing cherries, plums and pomegranate as the fruit evolves amid the frontal tannins. Further reward will come from cellaring, but enjoy now with prime rib or a Hershey Kiss. (4,473 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $28. Outstanding: Here's one of most expensive releases of the more than 30 created at this winery on the gateway to Mount Baker. Big yet mature oak tones don't shout over the black cherries, adding hints of Graham cracker, smoky portabella mushroom and western red cedar. Similar yields show in the drink that feature chocolate, cherry and mint, backed by a slice of coconut and walnuts toasted with brown sugar. Nice acidity and firm tannins stretch out the charming farewell. (290 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Patterson Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $32. Excellent: John Patterson and his father launched their winery in Monroe, Wash., before moving it to Woodinville in 2007. This production from Kiona Vineyards fruit offers dusty cherry and cedar, chalkboard dust, leaf tobacco and portabella aromas. It's sweet black cherries and chocolate between the lips, polished by acidity and stretched out by leather and late tannins. (182 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Pend d'Oreille Winery 2006 Berghan Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $28. Recommended: Plums and cherries, violets and lavender, tobacco and coffee match well. Chalky tannins and balanced acidity carry the structure toward a bite of a Kit Kat bar as a capper. (97 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Riverhaven Cellars 2007 Riverrock Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $34. Excellent: Here's another winery that's popped up in the Walla Walla Valley, only this one has more control than most young wineries because Dana Dibble is part-owner in the winery and manages his own vineyard. The nearly flawless nose features black currant, plum, cinnamon toast, tobacco leaf and cocoa. It goes down easy with black cherries and marionberry, statuesque tannins and chocolate-covered blueberries in the finish. (300 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Upland Estates 2007 Old Vine Cabernet, Snipes Mountain, $28. Excellent: Simply called Cabernet, it's Cabernet Sauvignon (96%) and Cabernet Franc (4%), and vines dating to 1973 contributed the majority. The history lesson opens with pie cherries, cassis, watermelon, eucalyptus and leather aromas. It's black currants on the palate with cranberries, bittersweet chocolate and the Cab Franc arrives with some leafiness. (99 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Wines of Substance 2008 Cs Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $20. Excellent: A number of the state's top vineyards - Dwelley, Pepper Bridge, Phinney Hill, Sagemoor, Dwelley, Seven Hills, Portteus - take a role in this Cab that's warmed front to back by opulent oak. Results show a theme of softened Bing cherries and warm boysenberries, deep dark chocolate and a bold finish. (1,750 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Pinot Noir
Anam Cara Cellars 2007 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, $45. Excellent: When you crop well-tended Dijon clones to 1.5 tons per acre, these are the rewards. The experience begins with aromas of fruit punch with apricot, cherry cola and mulberry, accented with hints of cedar, roasted meat, lilac blossom and lawn grass. Juicy raspberry, president plum and Van cherry flavors and juicy tannins invite your return. Enjoy on its own, with a cheese plate or smoked ribs. (280 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Anam Cara Cellars 2007 Heather's Vineyard Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, $65. Excellent: The pride of Nick and Sheila Nicholas shows in this release - named for their daughter. Hints of strawberry, blueberry, cassis and pie cherries gain complexity from cocoa powder, Earl Gray tea and smoked paprika. Sophistication and approachable describe the palate with delicious flavors of strawberry freezer jam, blueberries and Lakewood Black Cherry Juice. Raspberry acidity, a touch of minerality and restrained tannins help describe the structure. (70 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Anam Cara Cellars 2007 Nicholas Estate Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, $33. Excellent: Here is the largest offering by this Newberg, Ore., boutique. Raspberry is a theme throughout, along with notes of strawberry fruit leather, smoky cherry, rose petals and moist earth. It's smooth and subtle on the attack with graceful oak and shiny acidity. Pair this with cedar-planked king salmon or lox. (1,100 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Anne Amie Vineyards 2008 Cuvee A Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $25. Excellent: Indeed, it's quite a collage with six clones from 10 vineyards. Cherry cola, cranberry, white strawberry, apricot, orange zest and toasted almonds lead the aromas. Montmorency cherry, cranberry and dried fig flavors come with good acidity that belongs at an Easter Sunday table with ham. (2,500 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Anne Amie Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $35. Recommended: Strawberry, cranberry, pie cherries, apricot and white chocolate tones include hints of cloves, crushed hops and hickory-smoked meat that should lend this wine nicely to a smorgasbord. Suggested fare includes a chunk of sockeye salmon or wild mushroom soup. (3,671 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Fringes Pinot Noir, Washington, $30. Outstanding: Rich Wheeler, director of vineyards for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, scours the fringes of the state for grapes worthy of the CSM wine club. Bob Bertheau transforms this into a youthful but athletic Pinot Noir with an intense blackberry nose that includes cranberry, Bing cherry, coffee and green peppercorn. Dark fruit softly penetrates the palate with more blackberry and black cherry flavors, great acidity, managed tannins and a bittersweet chocolate sendoff. Suggested fare includes roasted chicken, salmon fettuccine and pork tenderloin. (200 cases, 13.9% alc.)
David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2007 Black Jack Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $45. Outstanding: If you're a card player and Pinot Noir lover, the bottle is worth owning simply for its striking label. You won't be gambling on the vineyard's Block 21 juice though, as this ranks with the best productions by Jason Bull for his bosses in Forest Grove, Ore. The nose is stacked with black cherries and coffee as hints of caramel, pineapple juice, rose petal and cedar get shuffled in. Cherries and coconut pay out on the balanced palate, followed by pomegranate, oregano, saddle leather and coffee. (189 cases, 13.8% alc.)
David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $38. Excellent: Those who dismiss Oregon Pinot Noir from the 2007 vintage should pay closer attention to this winery. Ripe aromas of strawberry and poached cranberries gain complexity from hints of forest floor, cedar, mint and caramel. The same fruit returns to the palate with an easy approach, backed by cherry juice acidity, candied ginger and warm chocolate. (464 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Elk Cove Vineyards 2008 Five Mountain Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $48. Excellent: This Campbell family vineyard, planted in 1978, boasts a view of five peaks in the Cascades, and the view over a glass of this looks nice, too. Black cherry and dried strawberry lead the aromas, with cinnamon, cedar, toasted walnut and milk chocolate falling in behind. Bing cherries and cranberry steal the show on the palate, supported by dusty tannins, hibiscus and milk chocolate at the end. (517 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Elk Cove Vineyards 2008 Mount Richmond Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $48. Recommended: Cassis, pie cherry and boysenberry notes include crushed mustard seed, teriyaki and cedar accents amid a finish of cola, pomegranate and supportive tannins. (894 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Ginkgo Forest Winery 2007 Pinot Noir, Wahluke Slope, $24. Recommended: Two barrels of Clone 777 estate fruit highlight notes of cherries, pink peppercorns, chocolate and cedar, finished with blueberries, white strawberries and young tannins. (53 cases, 14% alc.)
Kramer Vineyards 2007 Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, $18. Recommended: Late rains in 2007 hamstrung many Pinot Noir producers in the Willamette Valley. Canned cherries, rhubarb, rose hips and candela leaf tobacco describe this drink, an example of a trying vintage. However, the lower alcohols and higher acidity will make this better over time. (325 cases, 12.8% alc.)
Kyra Wines 2007 Pinot Noir, Washington, $18. Recommended: A product of Evergreen Vineyard near Quincy and Blue Lake Vineyard near Omak, this stands tall with juicy cranberries, dusty cherries, a slice of peach and bittersweet chocolate. (388 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, $22 CDN Outstanding: A winner of multiple golds in 2009, what might be John Simes' best effort with this variety is just beginning to reach its prime. The panoply of its perfume includes cranberry, dried strawberry, cassis, vanilla bean, cola, rose petal and charcoal briquette. Silkiness awaits with cherry and plum, accented by raspberry acidity and made decadent by chocolate truffle in the finish. Oak and tannin serve merely as accents. (2,500 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Ponzi Vineyards 2008 Tavola Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $25. Recommended: One of the largest releases each year, it required contribution from the Aurora and Estate vineyards. Dark chocolate and black cherry aromas funnel into flavors of ripe brambleberries and blueberries with midpalate sweetness.. (3,991 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Stoller Vineyards 2007 JV Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $25. Recommended: Does JV mean "junior varsity" wines? In a sense it does because these are junior vines and go under screwcap. Terroir from the appellation shows with high-toned red fruit aromas, rose hips and smoke, but there's a silkiness to the palate with dark black cherries, vanilla and tar. (5,810 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Stoller Vineyards 2006 SV Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $40. Recommended: Pulling the cork on this more expensive "Senior Vines" release unlocks aromas of dusty black cherry, cassis, rhubarb, minerality and some oregano. Entry brings more black cherry and boysenberry flavors, giving way to Montmorency cherry tartness and lingering cranberry acidity. (1,578 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Vin du Lac of Chelan NV Red Cafe Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, $20. Excellent: Our 2010 Northwest Winery of the Year takes only his second swing at making a Pinot Noir, and he's produced a hit that spans two years. Smoky cherry, clove, moist earth, chocolate and vanilla help describe the aromas. The run batted in comes home with flavors of black cherry and black currant. A sense of pomegranate gives it lip-smacking acidity, and while it's not silky, white chocolate oak makes it smooth. (345 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Hannah Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $40. Outstanding: Smaller lots lend themselves for more expression such as this from Forrest Klaffke. Van cherry, apricot, orange peel, sarsaparilla, cedar, pink peppercorns and crushed leaf aromas evolve into almost identical flavors. Hints of tangerine provide nice acidity, and there's little in the way of tannin as this finishes with a bit of milk chocolate. Suggested fare includes duck confit or a beet salad. (104 cases, 13% alc.)
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $25. Recommended: It's certified sustainable in virtually every direction, all the way down to giving you a small kickback for taking your bottle to the winery. There's reason to return with its classic high-toned red fruit character of pie cherry and cranberries. It is accented by rhubarb compote, smoky cedar, rose hips and wealth of age-worthy and food-friendly acidity. (12,190 cases, 13% alc.)
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Tualatin Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $40. Excellent: One of Oregon's most venerable vineyards, first planted in 1973, doesn't seem to be slowing down. Pomegranate, macerated raspberries and chokecherry tones blend well with those of citrus, cinnamon, green peppercorn and sagebrush. (340 cases, 13% alc.)
Merlot
Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $26. Excellent: This packs a nose full of raspberry, plum, Red Vines licorice, vanilla extract, cedar and sliced bell pepper. Inside the plush mouth feel of Merlot one expects in the form of plums, cherries and cassis. There's a pinch of green peppercorn spice, light tannin and lingering farewell of cherry and coffee. (450 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Barrister Winery 2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $25. Outstanding: The fruit is derived from Dwelley Vineyard, and if this wine were sold in Walla Walla, Greg Lipsker and Michael White could fetch twice this price. Vine-picked raspberry, smoky cedar, chocolate, vanilla and crushed leaf aromas emerge. The drink reveals flavors of blackberry jam, chocolate covered cherries and more raspberries. Smooth tannins merely add support, as does the saddle leather and allspice. (271 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Canyon's Edge Winery 2005 Aldercreek Vineyard Reserve Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, $36. Excellent: Winemaker John Haw's association with the Groth family began in the late 1990s when it began to ramp up its vineyards. This vintage marked the beginning of his winemaking influence, and it shows in this offering that starts with aromas of smoky cherry, Dr Pepper and chocolate chip cookie dough. The theme plays out on the palate, along with blackberry, baked raspberry, integrated tannins and more chocolate. (280 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Canyon's Edge Winery 2005 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, $20. Recommended: Red currants, poached plums, macerated blueberries keep the juicy acidity pushing bittersweet chocolate tannins along. (788 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $16. Recommended: Devotees of toasty oak will particularly enjoy this because while there's strong toast, there's plenty of fruit to support the barrel program. Black cherries, blueberry and serviceberry tones include lime peel and eucalyptus. Coffee-like acidity and tea tannins add punch. (160,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Otis Kenyon Wines 2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $30. Excellent: It's tough to go wrong with Seven Hills fruit, and Dave Stephenson shepherds those berries into a toasty presentation. Raspberry soda, black cherry, and horehound pick up barrel hints from chocolate and fresh-ground coffee. The sweet palate gathers earmarks of black cherry, juicy marionberry and anise, and then Ovaltine and wintergreen flag the farewell. (230 cases, 14.2% alc.)
RoxyAnn Winery 2007 Merlot, Rogue Valley, $26. Recommended: This lot of estate fruit had few issues with ripeness, making for hedonistic wine with dark strawberry, black cherry and stewed plum features. Bright acidity and bold tannins combine for a rewarding drink. (502 cases, 15% alc.)
Wines of Substance 2008 Me Merlot, Columbia Valley, $20. Outstanding: A Walla Walla triumvirate of Jason Huntley, Greg Harrington (Gramercy) and Jamie Brown (Waters) created this sleek concept derived from the periodic table and priced below most Walla Walla wines - including their own labels. A group of well-known vineyards made for a Merlot that offers aromas of blueberry, cherry, violets, tarry oak and roasted meat. The cherry jam and brambleberry flavors swirl in a structure of filled with finesse, including fresh-roasted coffee and chocolate. (1,700 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Syrah
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2007 Jet Black Syrah, Columbia Valley, $25. Recommended: Behind this sleek-looking black label are deep purple tones of marionberry, plums, bacon fat, coconut, cedar and devil's food cake. It's profuse and plummy with backing from boysenberry, then comes a delivery of blueberry acidity. Go glamping, and bring some barbecue. (319 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Amavi Cellars 2007 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $34. Recommended: Penetrating aromas of pomegranate, Bing cherry and vanilla are met by cinnamon toast and saddle leather. Boysenberry and blackberry are loaded on the palate with lots of bittersweet chocolate and some orange peel in the finish. (270 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $18. Excellent: Kristina Mielke van Loben Sels has entered her second decade as winemaker at this family-owned winery in Spokane. Two years in French oak shows with whiffs of chocolate and Graham cracker, backed by plums, strawberry fruit leather and freshly cracked black pepper. Dark berry flavors, ripe strawberry and rich plums make this exceedingly expressive, capped by vanilla bean and chewy, chocolaty tannins. (450 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Capstone Cellars 2006 Boushey Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley, $28. Excellent: This Longview, Wash., winery continues its successful association with esteemed grower Dick Boushey in this bottling. Light oak doesn't get in the way of the delicate bouquet of blueberries, plums and cedar. Lovely structure across the palate begins with pomegranate followed by blue fruit acidity of marionberry and boysenberry, pushing the tannins to the background. (200 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Cinder Wines 2008 Syrah, Snake River Valley, $27. Outstanding: Melanie Krause continues to succeed with Rhone varieties in Idaho, and she stays focused on three vineyards for her Syrah - Sawtooth, Skyline and Williamson. Her practice of fermenting some of her lots directly in new American barrels is apparent in the nose with blackberry, stewed plums, root beer, nutmeg, anise and cedar. Flavors feature president plums and boysenberry in a juicy, rich and quaffable fashion. Acidity wins out over tannin across the palate, and there's a warm mocha in the end. (400 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Griffin Creek 2007 Syrah, Rogue Valley, $38. Outstanding: Lakeside and Fortmiller vineyards have some history of producing worthy Syrah, and this continues the tradition. Aromas include black cherry, cassis, pomegranate, vanilla bean, anise and Dr Pepper. Cassis and supple blueberries fill the front of the drink, and there's skilled weight to the tannin/acid balance. Suggested pairing includes lamb with a blackberry compote. (248 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Hightower Cellars 2007 Murray Syrah, Red Mountain, $20. Recommended: If you visit the winery, Murray the family dog will lead the greeting party. His happy face appears on the bottle, which brings notes of strawberry fruit leather, blackberry and pie cherry acidity. Chocolate lovers can truly enjoy the finish. (249 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Kettle Valley Winery 2007 Syrah, Naramata Bench, $35 CDN Recommended: Fascinating tones of president plums, canned pie cherries, allspice and rhododendron tones swirl amid perfumy barrel notes of cherry wood and cedar. (207 cases, 14% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2006 Kestrel View Estate Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley, $22. Excellent: There's a heady assortment of telltale Syrah aromas with blackberries, blueberries, black pepper, mincemeat and gun metal, backed by pleasing vanilla via oak and some crushed leaf. Pleasing richness comes with easy-drinking flavors of juicy boysenberry and plums. The structure shows more acidity than many of its kind, perhaps the influence of Mourvedre (9%) and Malbec (6%), and oak influence returns with the chocolate finish. (980 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Magnificent Wine Co. 2007 The Originals Syrah, Columbia Valley, $22. Excellent: The concept with this line is 100% of the variety, and they've stayed true with identifiable Syrah notes of blueberry and smoky bacon fat aromas, joined by plums, cola, moist earth and sage. Boysenberry continues onto the flavors that include blackberry jam on toast, with lots of midpalate acidity and a good tug of tannin in the end. (2,000 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Red Sky Winery 2005 Syrah, Washington, $30. Excellent: Winemakers dealing with Boushey Vineyards and Klipsun Vineyards know they won't have trouble with ripening, and this young Woodinville, Wash., winery took advantage. It offers aromas of dense blackberries and blueberries, a fresh sprig of mint and chocolate cake hot out of the oven. The drink is akin to a slice of cherry chocolate cake drizzled with blackberry syrup, backed by earthiness and a cup of coffee. (196 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Riverhaven Cellars 2007 Riverrock Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $28. Outstanding: Deborah Hansen of Cougar Crest receives the credit for making the 2007 wines grown in the cobble of Milton-Freewater, Ore., by this fledgling winery. It's loaded with plums, black cherries, violets, chocolate, coffee and cedar and roasted meat. Big black cherries carry on in the complex mouth, where there's blueberry acidity, fine-grained tannins and marionberry jam in the finish. (150 cases, 14.4% alc.)
RoxyAnn Winery 2008 Syrah, Rogue Valley, $30. Excellent: This Medford, Ore., winery resides within a historic orchard, and you'll be hard pressed to find a bigger fruit bomb of a Syrah. Blue fruit aromas are joined by a punch of cherry and raspberry, yet there are accents of rose petal, moist earth, chocolate and tobacco. Blueberry and boysenberry gush in the mouth with huge acidity, backed by vanilla bean and late tannins. (630 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Seia Wine Cellars 2007 Alder Creek Vineyard Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills, $20. Recommended: A lighter-style Syrah, its fruit structure is one of blueberry, mincemeat, dried strawberry and Jolly Rancher grape candy, finished by a drink of Cherry Vanilla Coke. (367 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Sleight of Hand Cellars 2007 Levitation Syrah, Columbia Valley, $40. Outstanding: There's no hocus pocus here as Trey Busch built a wine that's unmistakably Syrah, and he did it with three of the finest vineyards in the state - Les Collines (50%), Lewis (44%) and Portteus. Out come aromas of blackberry, blueberry, smoked meat, Costa Rican coffee and star anise. Tasting is believing as blackberry and blueberry notes continue with richness and complexity. There's lingering tartness from boysenberry and chocolaty tannins. Open sesame! (340 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Sovereign Cellars 2007 Syrah, Red Mountain, $28. Outstanding: Free-run juice from Kiona Vineyards laid the foundation for a supreme effort from Olympia winemaker Dennis Gross. Strong chocolate oak aromas are backfilled with raspberry jam, blackberries and Red Vines licorice. It's a substantial drink with more dark chocolate on the entry and long brambleberry flavors. Food-friendly tannins should pair nicely with a char-grilled porterhouse. (25 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Stag's Hollow Winery 2008 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, $28 CDN Excellent: British Columbia's Corkscrew Trail is producing some of the province's top wines, and this classy tasting room is excelling with Rhone varieties. Co-fermented with 9% Viognier helps bring out big boysenberry aromas with gamy meat, gunmetal and alder smoke. Very juicy is the entry with more boysenberry and sweet blueberry, making for a lighter styled Syrah with racy acidity, backed down slightly by a finish of Belgian chocolate. (310 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2007 Oldfield's Syrah, Okanagan Valley, $35 CDN Excellent: American expatriate Sandra Oldfield increased production of this wine by 60 percent over the previous vintage, and her estate Diamondback Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench contributed 84% to the end product. Fascinating notes of minerality add to the aromatics of plums, black cherry, hazelnut coffee and molasses. It's cherry and chocolate on the chewy entry, followed by chalkboard dust tannins and tight acidity that help focus the cherry flavors down the middle of the tongue. (527 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Upland Estates 2007 Syrah, Snipes Mountain, $28. Outstanding: Hired gun winemaker Robert Smasne and grower Todd Newhouse turned quickly into a winning team. Blackberry fills the nostrils along with cherry jam, coffee, a chocolate brownie and herbal tea. It's a big, rich, mouth-coating wine that presents expressive boysenberry, blueberry and cherry flavors. Zesty acidity and well-managed tannins make it all fit. (72 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Vale Wine Co. 2008 Syrah, Snake River Valley, $27. Outstanding: John Danielson's effort with Syrah is another example of what Idaho can do with Rhone varieties. Black cherry, smoked meat, black pepper, tobacco, leather and chocolate aromas are matched on the palate. Marionberry and cherry jam provide pleasing tartness and setting the stage for sweet tannins. (48 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Walter Dacon Wines 2007 C'est Syrah Magnifique, Yakima Valley, $42. Outstanding: Top spots such as Boushey, Elephant Mountain and Ranch at the End of the Road allowed Lloyd Anderson to create one of the most expressive wines of the year. Bright red strawberries, raspberry, vanilla, root beer and candy cane aromas expand into a hedonistic spill of dark fruit across the mouth. Blackberries and blueberries mix with allspice for a feel of bubbling pie thanks to subdued tannins late acidity. (240 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Cabernet Franc
Abacela 2007 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon, $27. Recommended: True to the variety, it's cassis and plum with underlying tobacco leaf, pencil lead and green peppercorn aromas. It's plumy, cherry and chalky on the palate with leather notes in the background and blueberry tartness. (251 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2007 Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $18. Excellent: Cropped at 2 1/2 tons per acre and harvested Oct. 19 made for exceptional drink that maintains the variety's leafy quality. Chukar Cherry, berry compote, cola, cinnamon and massive chocolaty oak aromas still allow fresh herbs to filter through. There are more black cherries and mint on the entry with raspberry jam and brassy tannins. The van Löben Sels pair this alongside beef tenderloin in a huckleberry-Cab reduction sauce. (352 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley, $42. Recommended: Black cherry, blackberry, shaved Baker's chocolate, alder smoke, steak juice, beet juice coffee fill the nose. On the palate, it's blueberry jam, loganberry, and Dr Pepper flavors with bittersweet chocolate tannins and Craisin-esque acidity on the chase. (143 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Griffin Creek 2007 Cabernet Franc, Rogue Valley, $38. Excellent: A whiff of cigar leaf is often a giveaway you're in the presence of Cabernet Franc, such is the case brought by this other label of Willamette Valley Vineyards. However, there's fruit and oak to support that herbaceousness with notes of plums, black cherry and smoothness of chocolate. Look for light tannins and cured meat in the finish. (296 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Marchetti Wines 2008 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $28. Excellent: Indeed, Rich LaRosa released the equivalent of a half-barrel from his Lacey, Wash., shop. Light aromas of dried strawberry, raspberry, black cherry and cedar comes through in full force on the palate. There's a nice grip to the structure, yet acidity lies over the top. (12 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Marshall's Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $20. Excellent: One of the Columbia Gorge's early winegrowers, Ron Johnson, continues his solid tradition with this lesser-appreciated, food-friendly Bordeaux variety. It's sweet cherry, strawberry fruit leather, fresh raspberry, allspice and tar in the nose. The drink shows balance with a return of raspberries, cassis and pie cherry, finished with a pop of cherry tomato. (300 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2006 Proprietor's Limited Release Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley, $17. Excellent: A wealth of oak brings white chocolate chips to the front of the nose with black cherries, crushed leaf and leather joining in. Ripeness is apparent on the palate with plums and black Bing cherries, a titch of juicy raspberry and some late notes of crushed leaf carry into a rich finish of bittersweet chocolate. (119 cases, 15.4% alc.)
OS Winery 2007 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills, $28. Recommended: Here's an expression of Cab Franc that exudes richness, abundant black fruit and little of the leafiness one expects to find. There is, however, a brightness to the acidity, a rabbit punch of tannin, some pepper and milk chocolate in the back end. (210 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Stina's Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $20. Recommended: Dusty raspberry, blueberries and light oak aromas are followed by lots of pie cherry and blueberry flavors with just a bit of tannin. This will be great with artisan pizza. (69 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Wedge Mountain Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $22. Recommended: Charlie McKee in Peshastin, Wash., took fruit from Harold Pleasant in the Yakima Valley and turned out a food-worthy wine typical of this variety. It's unmistakably Cab Franc as crushed leaf and high-toned red fruit aromas leap out. There's a focus of acid-laced raspberry and boysenberry in the flavors, with more herbal notes. Pair this with Mediterranean fare or poultry rubbed with Italian seasoning. (48 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Sangiovese
Barrister Winery 2008 Kiona Vineyards Sangiovese, Red Mountain, $25. Excellent: It's the first bottling of this lively Italian grape for this two Spokane attorney, and they appear to be a quick study. Their trademark with reds is opulent oak, and they indeed poured this into new French oak for 15 months, which explains the chocolate and Triscuit aromas, but there's lots of cherry jam to sniff, too. And there's a luscious entry of cherry to the palate, which continues to gather tones of strawberry fruit leather, fresh bell pepper and mouth-coating milk chocolate. It closes with orange zest. (149 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Canyon's Edge Winery 2006 Sangiovese, Horse Heaven Hills, $28. Excellent: The approach taken here is one of a Super Tuscan style because of the influence of oak. Big black cherries, chocolate fudge and smoky tobacco fill the nose. Cherries bring lots of ripeness to the jammy drink, along with vanilla and more chocolaty oak. (392 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Kyra Wines 2007 Pheasant Vineyard Sangiovese, Wahluke Slope, $18. Recommended: The Baerlochers' estate fruit, and Kyra's light use of oak, creates a food-friendly offering of cherries, cassis, cracked black pepper, bay leaf and tobacco. (133 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Marchetti Wines 2008 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $28. Excellent: Spicy Hungarian oak adds smoke, cedar and black licorice tones to the nose of plums and cassis. Such deep color provides a stage for the rich blackberry flavors throughout, joined by tasty tannins, then notes of cedar and cassis in the finish. (15 cases, 12.4% alc.)
Pend d'Oreille Winery 2006 Kestrel Vineyard Sangiovese, Washington, $28. Excellent: This summer, Stephen Meyer marks his 15th anniversary of winemaking in Sandpoint, Idaho, but he'll be the first to tell you that relationships with Yakima Valley growers have been a cornerstone to his longevity. Here he created balance and preserved Sangiovese's vibrant acidity while offering notes of cherries, currants, cherry tomatoes, crushed herbs and Milk Duds. (135 cases, 15.4% alc.)
Walter Dacon Wines 2007 Sangiovese, Red Mountain, $31. Recommended: Dense and smoky oak surrounds the black cherry, red currants and cranberry approach, but the fruit provides abundant acidity. Serve with planked salmon or a puttanesca. (208 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Zinfandel/Primitivo
Angel Vine 2008 Avery Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $20. Outstanding: This vineyard near Maryhill Museum is helping to gain fame for this small Zin-focused winery in Carlton, Ore. Black currants, plums, raspberry, red licorice, spiced apple and juniper berries send your mind racing. Those currants and plums allow this to ride widely across the palate like a Studebaker, showing remarkable balance of acidity, tannin and alcohol for this variety. Grill a New York strip rubbed with Montreal seasoning and serve it with this gold-medal winner at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. (100 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Angel Vine 2008 Les Collines Vineyard Zinfandel, Walla Walla Valley, $22. Excellent: A legal threat prompted this tiny Oregon winery to change its name from Three Angels, but its devotion to this Croatian variety is unwavering. There's a brightness to the bouquet of boysenberry, strawberry, cranberry and cassis, along with barrel notes of chocolate, sandalwood and steamed milk. Boysenberries build on the palate, joined by more cassis, chocolate and blood orange acidity that overrides the tannin structure. (420 cases, 14% alc.)
Angel Vine 2008 Stonetree Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $20. Outstanding: Ed Fus grows Pinot Noir in Oregon's Eola-Amity Hills, but his primary passion and pursuit remains Zinfandel, and he's finding success in various places. Here, it's Tedd Wildman's site on the Wahluke Slope that helps make for mouthwatering piquant aromas of raspberry, cherry, cranberry, peppered beef jerky, tar and anise. It's a razzy and very cherry drink with zesty pomegranate acidity, pink peppercorn and chocolaty tannins to pare with meaty lasagna. (75 cases, 15.2% alc.)
Angel Vine 2008 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $20. Excellent: Assembling fruit from four sources in Washington - Avery, Coyote Canyon, Les Collines and Stonetree - makes for a solid chassis built with parts of Primitivo (18%) and Petite Sirah (6%). Aromas of coffee, cedar and green peppercorn accompany hints of raspberry and boysenberry from the French and Hungarian barrels. Flavors turn more toward blueberry, blackberry and black currents, backed by charry oak and ample tannin. (420 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Angel Vine 2008 Primitivo, Columbia Valley, $20. Excellent: Part of the romance surrounding this Italian descendent of Zinfandel is that it might have been poured at The Last Supper. Coyote Canyon in the Horse Heaven Hills and Stonetree on the Wahluke Slope fruit provide aromas of macerated cherries, milk chocolate, roasted coffee, toffee, orange zest, Wheat Thins cracker, red peppercorn and homemade pizza sauce. Plush is the palate with rich black cherries, boysenberry, Raisinette, mace and blackberry, finished by coffee and an eye-popping sense of Death By Chocolate. (210 cases, 15.2% alc.)
Ferraro Cellar 2007 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $24. Excellent: The Gunkel family sells fruit to some of the largest wineries in the Northwest, but they continue their association with one of Oregon's smallest. Dick Ferraro doesn't disappoint with this rather oaky Zin, which opens with cherry, molasses, Bosco chocolate, sandalwood and char. In the mouth, it's unctuous with black cherries, stewed plums, cured meat and dark roasted espresso flavors and textures. (66 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Maryhill Winery 2007 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $22. Recommended: Strawberry, Bing cherry, rose petal, cracked wheat and smoky oak aromas lay the foundation for one of the Northwest's largest offerings of Zin. Inside, there's mellow balance of black cherry, raspberry acidity and a pinch of tannin in the finish. (3,600 cases, 15.3% alc.)
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Proprietor's Limited Release Zinfandel, Red Mountain, $30. Recommended: There's a strawberry note typical of the variety, along with notes of flat cherry taffy, Red Hots candy, smoky leaf tobacco and saddle leather. It's a lighter style with pie cherries and red currants, lots of cinnamon and assertive tannin. (68 cases, 15.3% alc.)
Other reds
Abacela 2007 Malbec, Umpqua Valley, $22. Outstanding: Fanfare continues to grow for this minor Bordeaux variety, and many may not know that Earl Jones was one of the first in the Northwest to bottle Malbec on its own. This ranks among the best - and least expensive. There's still some adolescent to its nose with plums, cassis, blackberry, cherry cola, vanilla and fresh fig. Dark fruit plies its way to the smooth and balanced palate, joined by Montmorency cherry acidity and some crushed leaf. Chocolaty tannins give it length. (380 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Abacela 2008 Estate Dolcetto, Umpqua Valley, $20. Excellent: Here marked Andrew Wenzl's first vintage as head winemaker at Abacela, so this bodes well for the future. Black cherry, red currant, blueberry and Italian herb aromas lead to blueberries and more currants in the tongue-coating drink. The preservation of acidity and minor influence of oak make it very lively and rather Italian. (281 cases, 12.9% alc.)
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2007 Wahluke Slope Vineyard Petite Sirah, Wahluke Slope, $32. Recommended: This Spokane, Wash., winery celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2009, and here marks its first bottling of the variety from this site. It shows tones of rich boysenberry, Montmorency cherry and orange zest, with ground cloves, chocolaty tannins and bright acidity. (140 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2008 Grenache, Columbia Valley, $25. Recommended: Boysenberry jam, baked black cherry, cinnamon, caramel and cedar notes are wrapped up in warm oak before a flourish of pie cherry and cranberry in the finish. (128 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2007 Reserve Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley, $35. Outstanding: Commonly - and sparingly - used as a blender by many, Richland, Wash., winemaker Rob Griffin turns in a well-tamed Petit Verdot. Cassis, black cherry, all spice, earthiness, malted barley, chocolate brownie and lime peel show up in nose. A purple fruit with plums and boysenberry impart richness on the attack, which is filled up with chocolate, tar and late acidity to pair with crispy duck. (157 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Cinsault, Yakima Valley, $25. Excellent: A fascinating drink that's pure Cinsault flaunts aromas of strawberry juice, lime, milk chocolate and smoky cedar. It's delicate and juicy with more strawberry, Rainier cherry and cranberry flavors as the oak is virtually transparent. The winemaking team suggests serving it slightly chilled, and we suggest pairing it with Chinook salmon or roast pork in a cherry Port sauce. (350 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Malbec, Wahluke Slope, $25. Recommended: Here's one of the larger productions of Malbec in the Northwest, and it's loaded with dense oak, Chukar Cherry and lingonberry notes that coat the glass and the mouth, capped by a brashness of tannins. (600 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Mourvedre, Wahluke Slope, $25. Excellent: Members of the Vintage Reserve Club get first crack at this, and thankfully there's some scale to the production. Blueberry, boysenberry, Van cherry and smoked meet aromas are joined by hints of tar and cedar. The drink is not bashful but rather big with a similar fruit and oak profile, yet there's great acidity and managed chocolaty tannins. Enjoy with St. Louis-style ribs or tomato-based pasta or pizza. (700 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Limited Release Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley, $30. Recommended: The power of PV shows in this muscular tasting room offering, and it features black cherries, marionberry, orange zest, malted milk balls and espresso. The package is wrapped in brambleberry acidity with chocolaty tannin and finished with Turkish coffee. (350 cases, 14% alc.)
El Corazon Winery 2008 Tiger's Blood Carmenere, Walla Walla Valley, $32. Outstanding: It's not easy to stand out in Walla Walla - especially when your total case production is 350 - yet Spencer Sievers is emerging. Access to Seven Hills fruit helps. A wine for the intrepid, it's akin to Cabernet Franc with savory leafiness in the aromas, backed by dried cranberry, persimmon, cinnamon, a ballpark pretzel, rose petals, black pepper and cinder. It drinks like a young Pinot Noir, boasting more cranberry, pie cherries and more leafiness within a light structure. Pair with a shoulder roast rubbed with Montreal seasoning. (75 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2007 Winemaker's Select Mourvedre, Yakima Valley, $40. Outstanding: Fruit from Olsen Vineyard's site on the Roza in the Yakima Valley builds the backbone for the amazingly expressive wine co-fermented with Grenache (16%) and Syrah by Flint Nelson. The nose alone is sweet, spicy, savory and smoky with black cherry, plums, blueberry, cola nut, a Cinnabon roll, chili powder, coffee cigar leaf, hibiscus, saddle leather and sun-dried tomato. A tilt brings in mouth-filling black cherry, blackberry and meaty flavors. The oak, acidity and tannin strike an accord as the drink is finished with coffee and chocolate. (275 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Kettle Valley Winery 2007 Malbec, Naramata Bench, $35 CDN Excellent: Few in Canada bottle this Bordeaux variety on its own, and here's a trail to follow. Nearly two years in French oak lead to aromas of black cherry, pomegranate toasted walnut, red licorice rope and mint dental floss. Rich cherry and oak influences carry on through to the palate with enjoyable sweetness, orange peel in the midpalate, and well-textured tannin. (250 cases, 14% alc.)
Kramer Vineyards 2008 Barbera, Walla Walla Valley, $28. Excellent: Willamette Valley winemaker Trudy Kramer purchased this on the bulk market, gave it nearly a year in oak and emerged with a charmer. It opens with black pepper aromas, chased by raspberry, boysenberry, plum, Cherry Vanilla Coke, gamy meat and mint leaf. So easy is the drink that there's almost a viscosity to it on the palate, which is filled with boysenberry, pomegranate and pie cherries. It doesn't match the acidity of Italian Barbera, but there's enough to pair with wild boar or a hearty stew. (100 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Kramer Vineyards 2007 Carmine Big Red, Willamette Valley, $30. Excellent: A UC-Davis professor created this variety from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carignane, and Trudy Kramer has established a niche and nice tradition with it. Strawberry, raspberry, Rainier cherry and cinnamon aromas include cinnamon, alder smoke and green peppercorns. It brings Montmorency cherries, cranberries and huge acidity to the table, making it suitable for baby-back ribs or alder-planked salmon. (100 cases, 13% alc.)
Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2006 Winemakers' Reserve Red Petit Verdot, Washington, $30. Excellent: Alice Vineyards, a Taggares-owned vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, gave the Conways well-hewn building blocks. Massive aromas of fresh-picked boysenberries and raspberries are joined by cherry cola, Graham cracker, wheat toast and saddle leather. There's a nice carriage of brambleberry on the supple and plummy palate. It is easy on the oak, acidity and tannin. (340 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Marchetti Wines 2008 Tempranillo, Columbia Valley, $28. Recommended: This tiny winery near Washington's state Capitol offers a big oak/high-acid production focused on blackberry, strawberry, cardamom and cherry taffy with feathery tannins and a cranberry farewell. (15 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Marshal's Winery 2008 Limberger, Columbia Valley, $20. Recommended: Virtually everyone in the Northwest who grow this grape or makes wine with it spells it as "Lemberger." Then again, Ron John is his own man. It's creamy and juicy, laced with raspberry and red currants that give it a rustic complexity. Enjoy with beef shoulder roast rubbed with Montreal seasoning. (100 cases, 13% alc.)
Otis Kenyon Wines 2007 Carmenere, Horse Heaven Hills, $36. Excellent: If fans of traditional, food-friendly and leafy Cabernet Franc are bored, then hook up with this obscure Bordeaux variety. Wines featuring "Carm" are not for the faint of heart, including this one off Phinney Hill Vineyard. Whiffs of sagebrush, black cherry, salumi, Zoom cereal and Ovaltine stop you cold. The mouth-filling palate is traditional but a bit rustic with blackberry jam, lavender, pepperocini and chocolaty tannins. (100 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Otis Kenyon Wines 2007 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $36. Excellent: Don't bother looking long and hard for this small release, and don't get too attached to it if you own some as this Walla Walla winery doesn't have Malbec in production any longer. So the swan song comes with huge penetration of blackberries and cordial cherries, a grind of tannin of the midpalate and a blend of cocoa powder and licorice in the farewell. (70 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Spangler Vineyards 2008 Malbec, Southern Oregon, $28. Excellent: Patrick Spangler reached into KT Vineyard and Sundown Vineyard to create an alluring wine that starts with fruit aromas of pomegranate, Rainier cherry, cola, lime and fig, followed by savory sage and cigar leaf. Figs and pie cherries hop back on for the ride into the palate, which is laced by pomegranate acidity. Chocolaty tannins make this supremely drinkable, and Spangler builds his wines with low alcohol and high acidity for dining now and cellaring over time. (192 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Spangler Vineyards 2007 The Terrace Petite Sirah, Southern Oregon, $35. Recommended: Those looking for the hammerhead tannin structure typical of this variety may be disappointed. There's more balance in store with mouthcoating plums and blackberries, dried fig and Graham cracker notes, while blueberries and huckleberries provide acidity. (217 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Tagaris Winery 2007 Alice Vineyards Malbec, Wahluke Slope, $34. Excellent: Tattooed vintner Frank Roth makes his mark with one of the Northwest's biggest bottlings of Malbec. Ripe blackberry, cassis, Van cherry, vanilla and allspice aromas transition into a mouth-filling and balanced drink of Rainier cherries, blueberry acidity and expressive tannins. (1,600 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Upland Estates 2007 Malbec, Snipes Mountain, $28. Excellent: This AVA near Sunnyside, is the second smallest in Washington, and Todd Newhouse only has winemaker Robert Smasne working with small lots. That attention shows in this wine, which features lively raspberry, pie cherry and pomegranates. There's also chocolate and a cup of espresso on the entry, with some allspice for complexity. (74 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Red blends
Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards & Winery 2007 Legends Four Horsemen Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $18. Outstanding: The red sweepstakes winner at the Capital Food & Wine Festival is so good it's scary. Tony Lombardo's blend of Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Syrah (6%) and Petit Verdot features black cherries, figs, cracked green peppercorns, pencil shavings and a flirtation of milk chocolate. Blackberry and dark cherries come through smooth and balanced as tannins merely flow into a finish of cola, more pepper and star anise. (450 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Nine Mile Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $22. Excellent: Justin Michaud, who has since joined Kendall Mix at Goose Ridge, crafted this blend of estate Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc. Raspberry, plum, a fresh cup of mocha, Graham cracker, tobacco and saddle leather aromas ease into flavors of sweet raspberry and Rainier cherry. Tannins akin to bittersweet chocolate chip give way to a pleasing finish of purple boysenberry and anise. (1,100 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Barrister Winery NV Rough Justice, Columbia Valley, $20. Excellent: When it comes to vineyard sources, it's seems to be no-holds barred for these two members of the bar as Bacchus, Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and Weinbau berries were poured on the crush pad for their entry-level wine. Warm and smoky oak wraps around blackberry, black cherry and cassis aromas with root beer and leather. There's a big burst of berries creates a thickness and leads to tight tannins. Coffee and bittersweet chocolate leave a finishing trail from the blend of Merlot (35%), Syrah (28%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (1,323 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Canyon's Edge Winery 2006 Sagebrush Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, $18. Outstanding: John Haw's winemaking talents helped launch Maryhill to fame, and his control of the program at this Prosser-based winery is beginning to show. This blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Syrah (15%) and Cabernet Franc is supreme and opens with blueberry soda, mincemeat pie, cherry, milk chocolate and cedar aromas. Your mouth may mistake it for chocolate raspberry ice cream with a cherry on top and a spring of mint. Structurally, everything is in its place. (1,800 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Capstone Cellars 2006 Solstice Vineyards Unicus, Yakima Valley, $27. Excellent: Roy Bays' work with this nearly 40-year-old site - a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon - is filled with notions of raspberry, light plums, blackberry with the leaf, cherry vanilla cola, chocolate and black pepper. An attractive mouth feel brings in flavors of more blackberries, boysenberries, lingonberries and plums, backed with bittersweet chocolaty tannins. (200 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2008 Faye, Yakima Valley, $25. Recommended: A blend of Syrah (50%), Tempranillo (25%) and Malbec produces a light and zesty structure with lots of blueberry, juniper berry, pie cherry and peppery notes. Enjoy with lean meats or veal Parmesan. (210 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2007 Gordon, Yakima Valley, $25. Excellent: A blend of the five major Bordeaux varieties leads with Cabernet Sauvignon (37%) and Cabernet Franc (24%) shows with cassis and cherry fruit aromas, joined by cinnamon, toffee and cedar accents. Those fruits approach the palate softly then broaden out with enjoyable juiciness and food-friendly bits of crushed oregano (343 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Chandler Reach Vineyards 2006 Monte Regalo, Yakima Valley, $22. Excellent: Len Parris sells fruit to some of the top wineries in Washington, but obviously not all of it his leaving his winery near Red Mountain. Translated from Italian, it means "Mountain's Gift," and the offering of Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Merlot (23%) and Cabernet Franc unleashes notes of blackberry, ripe Bing cherries, cola and vanilla bean with just a tug of tannin in tow. (650 cases, 14% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Austral, Wahluke Slope, $32. Excellent: Red winemaker Joshua Maloney branches out on his own for some of these blends designated for Ste. Michelle's wine club. His expression with Rhone varieties Mourvedre (54%), Grenache (35%) and Syrah exudes big smoky cherry, vanilla bean, steak juice and freshly brewed mocha. Creamy cherries and juicy raspberry pour out in the mouth with shiny acidity, green tea tannins and a chocolate finish. (950 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Limited Release Boreal, Columbia Valley, $30. Excellent: This expression by Joshua Maloney - Bob Bertheau's right-hand man when it comes to red wines - is focused on Syrah co-fermented with Viognier (3%). Pure vanilla extract waves like a banner in the nose with blackberry, coffee and Chocolate Orange Sticks by The Nut Factory near Spokane. On the attack, raspberries join the blackberry with more milk chocolate and dose of cherry cough syrup. (700 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release CSM, Wahluke Slope, $30. Recommended: Not long ago, the abbreviation stood for Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Here, it's CS (51%), S (42%) and Malbec married for lots of cherries, chocolate, coffee, molasses and mint. The juicy and boldness bodes well for the cellar or backyard grilling. (597 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Cinder Wines 2007 Cab-Merlot, Snake River Valley, $27. Excellent: Four of Idaho's top spots for grapes - the Cabernet Sauvignon (63%) from Fraser and Williamson backed by Merlot off Eckerts and Skyline - play roles in the delivery of boysenberry, raspberry, blueberry and moist earth tones. The juicy structure and bright tannin structure are capped by a cup of Flying M House Blend. (250 cases, 13.1% alc.)
Glen Fiona Winery 2006 Parallel 46, Walla Walla Valley, $25. Excellent: Woodinville winemaker William Ammons continues to elevate the program of this Walla Walla property that struck gold with Syrah more than a decade ago. He blends Syrah (72%) with Cinsault (19%) and Counoise, and the nose is rather delicate with Rainier cherries, cocoa powder and cigar leaf. Consumers are paid in double with an enjoyably austere drink of sweet cherries, red raspberry, citrus peel and bittersweet chocolate. Enjoy with a juicy and bloody steak. (223 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards 2004 Tradition, Columbia Valley, $30. Excellent: That harsh winter of 2003 thinned the crop for this family of WSU Cougars, who married Cabernet Sauvignon (52%) and Merlot (43%) with Syrah. It's aging gracefully, giving off some bottle bouquet in terms of cassis, dried cherries, plum jam, crushed leaf and saddle leather, while the oak imparts vanilla extract and portabella mushroom. The dividend of time shows in the smooth approach to the palate with delicious black cherries, blackberries, cedar and a long finish of mocha coffee. (461 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Hightower Cellars 2007 Murray Cuvee, Columbia Valley, $18. Excellent: The entry-level label of this small family operation on Red Mountain is named after their yellow Lab. The mix of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (26%) and Cabernet Franc is no mongrel either with scents of Bing cherries, blueberry, Tennessee red cedar, green peppercorns and fine-grained sandpaper. It stays on point with a carton of black cherries and more blueberries. Waiting is a treat of molasses cookies in the finish. Lingering acidity should make this delicious with beef shoulder roast from the Kittitas Valley. (522 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Hightower Cellars 2007 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $28. Recommended: It would be street-legal to label this blend of Merlot (75%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, and this famed vineyard makes it easy to find accents of rich strawberry and plum. Behind are hints of coffee, tobacco, green peppercorns and Triscuit crackers. Richness and acidity in the structure gives way to a finish of steak juice and a Keebler's Fudge Stick. (199 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Hightower Cellars 2006 Red Wine, Red Mountain, $55. Excellent: Neighborhood vineyards Shaw (44%), Kiona's 1975 block (34%) and Artz (11) made this 10-barrel lot come to fruition for Tim and Kelly Hightower. It's a nose-filling assortment of fruit accents of strawberry, blackberry, cherries and raspberries, backed by cedar and chocolate. Rich on the mouth is the arrival of black cherry and strawberry jam, showing lots of acidity. Smooth tannins gather in prominence, yielding in the finish to barrel notes of star anise, chocolate-covered almonds and coffee. (234 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Hogue Cellars 2007 Genesis Meritage, Columbia Valley, $16. Excellent: Effusive tones of huckleberry and blueberry make this first vintage of Genesis Meritage particularly fascinating and fruity throughout. Well-integrated oak and enjoyable acidity allows this to cut right through a fatty steak. And the screwcap makes the blend from Andrews, Rowell, Zephyr Ridge and Fries vineyards easy to get at. (25,300 cases, 14.4% alc.)
JoieFarm 2008 PTG, Okanagan Valley, $30 CDN Recommended: Last year's debut vintage of this Pinot Noir and Gamay sold out, and there's no reason why the current version shouldn't. The tribute to a Burgundian wine known as Passetoutgrain is full of blueberry and pomegranate juice. Cloves, white pepper and tannins peek out a bit in the finish, but the acidity carries the wine and makes it highly food friendly. Enjoy with roasted quail in a reduction sauce. (780 cases, 13% alc.)
Robert Karl Cellars 2007 Claret, Horse Heaven Hills, $20. Excellent: One of the most consistent and classic wines in the Northwest each year is Dr. Joe Gunselman's affordable assemblage. Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (20%) Cabernet Franc (14%), Petit Verdot (14%) and Malbec impart black cherries and smoky coffee, cedar and bittersweet chocolate. It's an easy drinker with those cherries and pomegranate, which gives is lots of acidity. The wealth of oak and fine-grained tannins lends it opulence. (1,600 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Patterson Cellars NV WoodsLake Due Anni, Washington, $17. Recommended: This second label for Patterson Cellars in Woodinville, Due Anni means "two years" in Italian, a reference to the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah from the 2007 and 2008 vintages. Cherries, currants and raspberry juice up the structure of a broadly shouldered wine. Duck confit or pork ribs would be make good company. (1,100 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Pepper Bridge Winery 2006 Reserve Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $75. Excellent: Arguably the assertive wine in their respected lineup, it doesn't disappoint in the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (36%), Malbec (5%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot. Nearly two years of French oak develops the nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry, allspice, toasted marshmallow and tobacco. Boldness builds on the palate that opens with black cherry, juicy blackberry and raspberry fruit leather. Tannins impart nice grip and team well with coffee and blueberry in the finish. (340 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Red Sky Winery 2006 Sunrise, Washington, $20. Excellent: This vintage marked the beginning of Carol Parsons as head winemaker at this female-operated winery in Woodinville. Impeccable fruit sources - Conner Lee, Pepper Bridge and Chelle den Pleasant - create the formula of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%) and Merlot. Dense black cherries, rhubarb compote, toasted coconut, vanilla bean and bittersweet chocolate tannins create enjoyment. And the screwcap makes for a sleek package. (98 cases, 14.5% alc.)
RoxyAnn Winery 2007 Claret, Rogue Valley, $28. Outstanding: Devout cyclist/winemaker Gus Janeway got this rolling before leaving to focus on his own winery, and it never spins out of the control. Plums, pomegranate, dusty blueberry and cherry aromas include chocolate, vanilla bean and cedar. What follows is a velvet glove with more blue fruit and plums. Its dense, rich and round, yet a lingering grip of tannin merely adds life to this drink that virtually flawless. (2,851 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Sleight of Hand Cellars 2007 Archimage, Walla Walla Valley, $40. Excellent: Trey Busch continues to grow his project in Walla Walla with proprietary blends, including his tribute to St. Emillion in Bordeaux with this blend of Merlot (54%) and Cabernet Franc (46%). There's some influence of oak with hints of coffee, but it doesn't slow down the aromas of boysenberry, blueberry, pomegranate, cherry and chalk. Blueberry and pie cherry tartness shines nicely above the tannins, and chocolaty oak accents create a lingering finish. (295 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Sleight of Hand Cellars 2007 Illusionist, Columbia Valley, $40. Excellent: Trey Busch continues to show consistent excellence at producing high-acid blends, and this melange is Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Petit Verdot (20%), Malbec (16%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Merlot (5%) with Syrah filling in the gap. Boysenberry, cassis and plums stay smooth and well ahead of the French oak. (295 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Sleight of Hand Cellars 2007 Spellbinder, Columbia Valley, $19. Excellent: The entry-level wine at this eclectic winery turns Cabernet Franc (42%), Cabernet Sauvignon (21%), Syrah (14%), Merlot (12%) and Sangiovese into another versatile food wine. Strawberry fruit leather, dark cherries, blackberry and boysenberry notes make for a sense of being at the breakfast table with cinnamon toast and coffee accents. There's a rich entry with black fruit, yielding to marionberry acidity and an Aussie black licorice finish. The screwcap makes it easy to get at, too. (988 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Spangler Vineyards 2007 Claret, Southern Oregon, $28. Excellent: Again, Patrick Spangler creates wines for his enjoyment, which means they will be welcome at the dinner table and built for the long haul. His blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (56%), Cabernet Franc (34%), Merlot (7%) and Malbec allows the Cab Franc to emerge with its high-toned red fruit and bay leaf accents. Cassis and blackberry create finesse on the midpalate, and fine-grained tannins fill out the frame. (294 cases, 13.7% alc.)
SuLei Cellars 2007 Beet Red, Walla Walla Valley, $19. Recommended: Tanya Woodley's winery is on Beet Road, hence the name for this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (67%) and Syrah. Blackberry, black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, green peppercorns and assertive tannins will fit nicely alongside a juicy buffalo burger. And those who buy the wine will be contributing to the Stan N. Clarke Memorial Scholarship Fund at Walla Walla Community College. (155 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Tagaris Winery 2006 BoarDoe, Wahluke Slope, $34. Recommended: Alice Vineyard contributes four Bordeaux varieties for that blend that ranges in straightforward notes of cherry, raspberry, boysenberry jam, chocolate and fresh-picked green bean. Suitable pairings for this would include wild boar or venison. (1,600 cases, 14% alc.)
Tagaris Winery 2006 Red Roan, Wahluke Slope, $34. Excellent: Syrah (79%) leads its Rhone relatives Mourvedre (11%) and Counoise into this mix that produces spicy aromas of cinnamon, green peppercorn, cocoa and coffee beans to go with black cherry and cigar leaf. Pomegranate charges into the palate with trailing support from more cherries, sweetened plums and blackberry. (1,600 cases, 14% alc.)
Tefft Cellars NV Villa Toscana, Rattlesnake Hills, $19. Excellent: It's made to emulate a Super Tuscan by blending Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Indeed, the drink is a quaffer with Rainier cherry, raspberry, citrus and jasmine tea. (154 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Wedge Mountain Winery 2007 Trois Chevaux Rouges, Columbia Valley, $20. Excellent: Wenatchee Valley winemaker Charlie McKee names his blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc for three horses that from afar appear to be red. He crafted this in a Bordeaux style with tones of cassis, pie cherry and cranberries, backed by bay leaves, saddle leather and drip coffee. It is constructed to accent acidity rather than tannin. (98 cases, 13.8% alc.)
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