Perhaps no wine is more sensual, more remarkable or more difficult to make than ice wine.
Imagine dragging yourself out of bed at 2 a.m. in the middle of December when the temperatures are well below freezing. Imagine trudging through snow to harvest grapes that are as hard as marbles. Imagine lugging the heavy bins back to the winery and slowly pressing the grapes as thick nectar drips out. Imagine waiting weeks or months for fermentation to be completed.
This is nothing more than a snapshot of what it is like to make ice wine, the stunningly sweet dessert wine found primarily in the world's northern climes.
Fortunately for those of us living in the Pacific Northwest, we have fairly easy access to one of the world's rarest of wines, thanks to British Columbia's Okanagan Valley, where a fourth of Canada's ice wines are made. In Washington, a few ice wines are made when conditions provide the opportunity, and some wineries produce faux ice wines by freezing the grapes after harvest.
An ice wine is the perfect way to end a great meal with friends or family, either with dessert or on its own.
The Wine Press Northwest crew was in for a treat when it judged 49 ice wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. It has been five years since we conducted an ice wine judging, so tasting through so many examples was an enjoyable chore.
Not surprisingly, about 20 percent of the entries earned our top "Outstanding" rating. A bit surprising, however, was that a B.C. wine was not No. 1; instead, Chateau Ste. Michelle's 2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine finished first in our blind judging.
Washington's oldest winery makes ice wines only when conditions allow, and it has made just five in its 87-year history. Bob Bertheau, Ste. Michelle's head winemaker, has been involved in three of them.
"When you make an ice wine, it's one of those crystal clear nights," Bertheau said. "It's always clear and always cold."
His first ice wine harvest came on Halloween 2003, and his second came on Halloween 2006. He remembers 2006 clearly because the Ste. Michelle crew made five dessert wines in one 48-hour period, all from the estate Horse Heaven Vineyard near Columbia Crest in Paterson.
"We saw the cold temperatures coming," Bertheau said. "We had some beautiful botrytis we wanted to get out first."
Botrytis, known as "noble rot," is a fungus prized for making certain styles of dessert wine. In this case, it was the rare Eroica Single Berry Select, a $250 Trockenbeerenauslese-style wine. So a crew handpicked the clusters affected by botrytis, then went through again when freezing temperatures hit and harvested the frozen grapes.
Ernst Loosen, the famed German winemaker who collaborates with Bertheau on the Eroica wines, was on the phone constantly during the freeze, making sure conditions were perfect. The juice was more than 40 brix at harvest, and the final wine was 26% residual sugar. It was the first ice wine under the Eroica label.
In 2008, conditions again presented themselves for an ice wine harvest at Ste. Michelle. Bertheau said these grapes were picked during the second week of December, when temperatures dropped to minus-7 Fahrenheit and warmed up to zero by the time harvest began around mid-morning. That wine has not yet been released.
Ice wines are almost always bottled in 375 milliliter bottles, and they are generally low in alcohol. They can range in price from $20 for "cryo" versions to more than $100 in Canada.
Our judges for this competition were Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest tasting editor; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; Dave Seaver, Wine Press Northwest tasting panelist; and Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest managing editor. It was conducted May 20 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.
Here are the results.
Outstanding
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine, Columbia Valley, $60
Eroica is the international collaboration between Washington's Chateau Ste. Michelle and Germany's Dr. Loosen. Since Eroica's inception in 1999, this is the first ice wine under this label. The grapes came from the estate Horse Heaven Vineyard near Columbia Crest when temperatures dropped to 14 degrees on Halloween 2006. It's a stunningly complex wine with aromas that range from orange zest, clove, lychee and peaches to candied ginger, lemon basil and anise. On the palate, this wine opens with gentle flavors of honey, cloves, grapefruits, citrus and peaches. It's a layered and delicious wine with notes of lavender on the finish and a sweet 26% residual sugar. (7% alc., 530 cases)
Inniskillin Okanagan 2007 Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $60
Sandor Mayer has been the winemaker at Inniskillin Okanagan near Oliver, B.C., since 1996 and also oversees the winery and vineyard operations. His skills from vineyard to cellar help his wines to be consistently among the finest in Canada. This luscious dessert wine is loaded with aromas of apricots, spices, honey, grapefruits and even candy corn. On the palate are bold, sweet (21.5% residual sugar) flavors with rich notes of honey, apricots and poached pears. Huge viscosity is backed with ample acidity, providing a rich and perfectly balanced wine.
Pentage Winery 2009 Slow Vineyards Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $35
This fascinating wine is crafted by owner Paul Gardner from a blend of Semillon, Muscat, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. In fact, it is a field blend, meaning the grapes were harvested, crushed, pressed and fermented together rather than in separate lots. The resulting wine provides gorgeous aromas of lemon sorbet, cloves, Lemonhead candy and apricots, followed by huge, delicious flavors of apricots and peaches. It's a richly structured wine that is loaded with impressive acidity, a viscous mouth feel and a lingering finish. With 19% residual sugar, it's plenty sweet without being completely over the top. (10.5% alc., 65 cases)
Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Vino Gelato, Willamette Valley, $24
The Ponzis have been producing great wines in Oregon's Willamette Valley for more than four decades, and this delectable dessert wine is a favorite. It's a blend of Muscat and Riesling, with the latter coming from 40-year-old estate vines. The clusters were frozen at harvest, then the wine was aged six months after a slow fermentation. The resulting wine offers gentle aromas of honey, cloves, citrus and pears, followed by rich flavors of Texas pink grapefruit, starfruit and candied citrus. It's a bold wine with plenty of acidity backing up the 16% residual sugar. (11.8% alc., 345 cases)
Jackson-Triggs Okangan Estate 2007 Proprietors' Reserve Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $53
Long considered among the finest producers of ice wine anywhere on the planet, Jackson-Triggs continues to uphold its tradition with this superb Riesling sipper. Derek Kontkanen took over crafting J-T's ice wines when Bruce Nicholson departed for Inniskillin in Ontario at the end of the 2006 vintage. This opens with aromas of oranges, cloves, apples and even a hint of petrol, followed by luscious flavors of oranges, lemons, grapefruits and apple pie. It's a big wine with loads of sweetness (22% residual sugar) backed with impressive acidity. (9% alc., 800 cases)
Nk'Mip Cellars 2009 Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $60
This Osoyoos, B.C., winery's claim to fame has been that it is North America's first aboriginal-owned winery. Yet winemaker Randy Picton's deft touch with seemingly every wine he crafts is overshadowing Nk'Mip's backstory. This dessert wine opens with intriguing aromas of golden raisins, apricots, oranges and peaches, followed by rich, luscious flavors of oranges, poached peaches and other fresh-picked orchard fruit. It's ultra-sweet at 25.8% residual sugar, yet ample acidity ably brightens the wine. (10% alc., 209 cases)
Elk Cove Vineyards 2008 Ultima, Willamette Valley, $36
Second-generation winemaker Adam Campbell heads our 2007 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year, and this sweet sipper is a blend based on Riesling from the cool Willamette Valley. It is an opulent wine with 19% residual sugar. It opens with aromas of honey, apples and peaches, followed by lush, sweet flavors of poached pears and fruit cocktail. The structure is beautiful and balanced.
See Ya Later Ranch 2008 Ehrenfelser Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $50
Ehrenfelser is a fascinating variety that was created in 1929 in Germany as a cross between Riesling and Silvaner. In the Northwest, it is most often found in British Columbia's Okanagan Valley, where it makes beautiful dry and sweet wines. See Ya Later Ranch - formerly known as Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards - has made an Ehrefensler ice wine for years, so it's of little surprise that this scores so well. It's a "wow" wine with aromas of oranges, quinces and lemon zest, followed by bold, luscious flavors of oranges, poached pears, blood oranges and lavender. It's plenty sweet at 27.7% residual sugar. (9.5% alc., 500 cases)
Scatter Creek Winery NV Frost-Tease, Washington, $25
Rather easily, this is the most interesting and unusual wine in our judging. Scatter Creek, a tiny winery north of Centralia, Wash., is owned by winemaker Terril Keary. This wine is a blend of 85% Riesling ice wine, 10% cranberry and 5% boysenberry. It shows off an alluring nose of honey, sweet spices, flowers, fruit syrup and raspberries, followed by rich, spicy flavors of honey, pears, sweet apples and tangerines. Compared with many ice wines, it's fairly modest in the sweetness department with 14% residual sugar. (13.5% alc., 120 cases)
Smasne Cellars 2008 Upland Vineyard Muscat Ice Wine, Snipes Mountain, $28
Robert Smasne is quickly becoming one of Washington's most prolific winemakers. Based in the Yakima Valley, Smasne crafts wines for 14 different labels, including his eponymous winery. The grapes for this blend of Muscat of Alexandria and Orange Muscat come from Snipes Mountain, one of Washington's newest and smallest appellations. The resulting wine opens with aromas of yellow pears, honey, lemon zest and a hint of nuttiness, followed by rich flavors of Alberta peaches, roses, vanilla, pears, honey and tangerines. The 21% residual sugar is expertly backed with beautiful acidity. (12% alc., 48 cases)
Excellent
Pacific Rim Winemakers 2007 Vin de Glacière Selenium Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley, $17
By far the largest-production ice wine of our competition, it's also one of the finest. This Riesling dessert wine comes from Randall Grahm's operation in West Richland, Wash., and winemaker Nicolas Quille has crafted a gorgeous sipper. He keeps it amazingly crisp by harvesting the grapes at 22.5 brix, then freezing and pressing the fruit. The finished product is 16% residual sugar. It's a fascinating wine with aromas of honey, cardamom, pears and apples, followed by flavors of poached pears, sweet lemons and Texas pink grapefruits. (10.5% alc., 16,000 cases)
RoxyAnn Winery 2008 Night Harvest Viognier, Rogue Valley, $35
This Medford, Ore., producer is one of the leading wineries in the emerging Rogue Valley of Southern Oregon, and this sweet Viognier (26.1% residual sugar) further solidifies John Quinones' reputation as a top-flight winemaker. This opens with succulent aromas of French toast, flan, baked peaches and vanilla bean, followed by bold, rich, spicy and - dare we say - lusty flavor of ultra-ripe peaches and apricots. It's a luscious wine backed with plenty of acidity. (9.9% alc., 175 cases)
Ste. Chapelle 2007 Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Snake River Valley, $20
The Gem State's flagship winery has been crafting ice wines for more than a decade, and veteran winemaker Chuck Devlin has it down to a science. In fact, he has a natural advantage over most because the Snake River Valley's leading grape is Riesling, and its high altitude provides greater natural acidity. This opens with aromas of honey, spices and orange zest, followed by lush flavors of poached apples, juicy oranges and cardamom. Its 18% residual sugar is backed with plenty of pep. (10% alc., 1,675 cases)
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Sweet Müller-Thurgau, Oregon, $20
This cross between Riesling and Silvaner was Germany's most-planted variety as recently as two decades ago and still remains No. 2 to Riesling. It is planted in cooler areas of Washington, Oregon and British Columbia. This dessert wine was made in a cryo style, meaning the grapes were frozen after harvest, a method typical in Oregon's temperate climate. It shows off a gorgeous nose of honeysuckle, ripe Golden Delicious apples and lemon zest, followed by plush flavors of apples, peaches and sweet limes with plenty of crispness on the finish. This clocks in at 13.7% residual sugar. (13% alc., 77 cases)
L'Ecole No. 41 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Semillon Ice Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $24
Winemaker Marty Clubb loves the Semillon grape like nobody else in the Pacific Northwest. The owner of our 2003 Northwest Winery of the Year crafts no fewer than four styles of the classic Bordeaux variety. This comes from his estate vineyard on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, and it opens with aromas of orange zest, honey, peaches and apricots. The sweet (19% residual sugar) flavors are smooth, rich and well balanced and reminded us of fresh, creamy caramel. (13% alc., 106 cases)
Rio Vista Wines 2008 Gewurztraminer Ice Wine, Columbia Valley, $40
John Little is the owner and winemaker of this fascinating operation on the Columbia River north of Chelan, Wash. His is the only tasting room in the Northwest that caters to boaters. He trudged through knee-deep snow to hand-pick these grapes, and the results were worth the effort. It opens with aromas of cloves, lychee, bananas, sandalwood and rosewater, followed by lovely flavors of peaches and tangelos. At 19% residual sugar, this offers luscious depth and breadth. (11% alc., 20 cases)
Jones of Washington 2009 Riesling Ice Wine, Columbia Valley, $25
The Jones family has been involved in Columbia Basin agriculture for more than a half-century, and Jack Jones began planting wine grapes 13 years ago. He and son Greg now run their eponymous winery with a tasting room in the Basin town of Quincy, Wash. This is their first ice wine, and it is beautiful, opening with classic aromas of pears, peaches and apricots. On the palate, the flavors include notes of fruit cocktail, white peaches and Braeburn apples. Good acidity backs up the 21% residual sugar. (11.5% alc., 50 cases)
Kiona Vineyards Winery 2008 Ice Wine, Red Mountain, $25
The Williams family pioneered Red Mountain viticulture in the 1970s, carving vineyards out of sagebrush. For many years, they have crafted an ice wine that is primarily made from Chenin Blanc, using a block that consistently freezes late each autumn. This version is 100% Chenin and opens with aromas of pineapples, lemons and honey, followed by delicious flavors of peaches, pineapples and apricots. It's plenty sweet at 26.8% residual sugar and is backed with ample acidity. (9.6% alc., 1,500 cases)
Henry Estate 2002 White Riesling Ice Wine, Umpqua Valley, $35
Easily the oldest wine in our judging, this rare natural ice wine from Southern Oregon is a beautiful sipper. It opens with aromas of honey, toasted hazelnuts, pears, apricots and fresh linen. On the palate are plush flavors of apricots, oranges, peaches and sweet spices. It weighs in at 21% residual sugar and is backed with impressive acidity. (9% alc., 225 cases)
Pentage Winery 2008 Slow Vineyards Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $35
Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie turn to Slow Vineyards on the Naramata Bench each year for this ice wine made from five grapes: Semillon, Muscat, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. It opens with aromas laces with grapefruits and tangerines, followed by a rush of sweetness (19% residual sugar) backed with fascinating orange, peach, tangerine and clove flavors. It's loaded with plenty of acidity to back all the flavor. (10.5% alc., 28 cases)
Dunham Cellars 2008 Lewis Vineyard Late Harvest Riesling, Columbia Valley, $19
Winemaker Eric Dunham loves this vineyard near Rattlesnake Ridge in Washington's Columbia Valley. He leans on the site for Cab, Syrah and this luscious dessert wine. It is made in the cryo style, with the grapes frozen post-harvest. The aromas open with notes of flowers, oranges, peaches and a hint of petrol, followed by sweet (23.1% residual sugar) flavors of peaches, apricots and oranges. The structure is as compelling as the flavors, thanks to refined acidity backing all the fruit and sugar. (9.5% alc., 750 cases)
Covey Run Winery 2006 Reserve Semillon Ice Wine, Yakima Valley, $20
Kate Michaud oversees winemaking for one of the Northwest's largest producers, a winery known as much for its quality as its value. This wine shows off intriguing aromas that include creme brulee, Thai basil, hazelnuts, oranges and limes, followed by flavors of oranges, peaches, fresh figs and minerality. Its sweetness (16.5% residual sugar) is backed with right-on acidity, giving this plenty of balance. (11% alc., 7033 cases)
Inniskillin Okanagan 2008 Dark Horse Estate Vineyard Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $70
Winemaker Sandor Mayer loves this 23-acre vineyard near Osoyoos, B.C., and relies on it for several wines. This vineyard-designated ice wine unveils attractive aromas of honeysuckle, lemons, apricots and pears, followed by lush flavors of peaches, honey, apricots and citrus. Piercing acidity backs up the 22.2% residual sugar. (9.5% alc., 200 cases)
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Sweet Hannah, Oregon, $25
Crafted by one of Oregon's largest wineries, this seductive dessert wine is made in the "cryo" style, meaning the grapes were frozen post-harvest. This opens with luscious aromas of ripe pears and Key lime pie, followed by charming flavors of fruit cocktail, delicate lemon-lime notes and light syrup. It's not overly sweet at 12% residual sugar and has plenty of bright acidity. (13% alc., 57 cases)
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2008 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Syrah Ice Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, $30
Red ice wines are rare, though not unheard of. This is one of the few we've tasted from Washington, however. Owner/winemaker Jarrod Boyle harvested the grapes at 38 brix, then fermented the juice to 14.7% residual sugar. The resulting wine shows off aromas of cherries and cranberries, followed by luscious flavors of plums, cloves, cinnamon, strawberry fruit leather and a touch of chocolate on the finish. (13.9% alc., 136 cases)
Heaven's Cave Cellars 2006 Make The Dash Count Icicles Riesling Ice Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, $39
Founder Hope Moore is building a gorgeous wine facility in the Horse Heaven Hills, scheduled to be completed this fall. It is only fitting it should have a wine this lovely in it. This natural ice wine opens with aromas of pears, peaches, honey and spice, followed by succulent flavors of pears and honeysuckle. It's bold with rich sweetness (15.4% residual sugar). (12.03% alc., 175 cases)
Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery 2007 The Lost Bars Vidal Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $40
Wade Stark oversees winemaking for this operation owned by Mission Hill Family Estate. He moved to the Okanagan from Ontario in the late '90s and has been at the helm of Prospect since 2006. This luscious ice wine opens with aromas of poached pears, vanilla bean and rhubarb, followed by rich flavors of honey and citrus. It's plenty sweet at 19% residual sugar and is backed with solid acidity. (9.5% alc., 1,200 cases)
Apolloni Vineyards 2009 Dolce Vino Viognier, Oregon, $22
Owner and winemaker Alfredo Apolloni is a first-generation American whose roots reach back to Italy, where his family has made wine for more than 150 years. This winery in the northern Willamette Valley focuses on Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and a Super Tuscan style blend. This superb dessert wine is made from Viognier and shows off aromas of mangoes, kiwis, peaches and even fresh-shucked corn niblets. On the palate, this reveals considerable brightness, thanks to moderate sweetness (13.7% residual sugar) and notes of orange zest. It's a deliciously pleasing wine. (13% alc., 248 cases)
Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Reserve Vidal Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley, $50
Vidal is a hybrid grape variety that was developed in the 1930s in France. Its thick skin and winter hardiness make it a superior grape for producing ice wines, especially in the Ontario region. A bit is crafted in the Okanagan Valley, as well, and this is a delicious example. It opens with aromas of orange sherbet and a distinctive and alluring earthy note. On the palate are flavors of orange zest, wintergreen, tangerines and lemons. It's a sweet wine (22% residual sugar) with complex layers. (9% alc., 700 cases)
Recommended
Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 SLC Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley, $80
This wine from one of British Columbia's most notable producers is part of the Select Lot Collection. The grapes for this ice wine come from the southern Okanagan Valley, and they were harvested in December 2005. This opens with aromas of apricots, apples and hot cross buns, followed by bold, fresh, round flavors of honey and butterscotch. It's plenty sweet at 25.2% residual sugar. (9% alc., 1,250 cases)
King Estate 2007 Signature Collection Vin Glacé Pinot Gris, Oregon, $15
Oregon's flagship winery has produced this dessert wine for many vintages. The grapes are frozen post-harvest, resulting in a wine that is plenty sweet (17.5% residual sugar) with ample acidity. It opens with aromas of apples and cloves, followed by rich, focused flavors of fresh pears dripping with light honey. (8.5% alc., 3781 cases)
Inniskillin Okanagan 2008 Discovery Series Tempranillo Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $100
A red ice wine is rare enough, and one made from the Tempranillo grape is incredibly unusual. This comes from one of B.C.'s top ice wine producers, and winemaker Sandor Mayer displays his penchant for experimentation. It reveals aromas and flavors of honey, cherries and spices with a plush mouth feel, thanks to the 21.8% residual sugar. (9.5% alc., 240 cases)
Covey Run Winery 2006 Barrel Aged Semillon Ice Wine, Yakima Valley, $20
Winemaker Kate Michaud has crafted a fascinating and most unusual wine, as most ice wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel while this was aged in oak. It offers gentle aromas of honeysuckle and sweet spices, followed by sweet (16.5% residual sugar) flavors of honey, pears and even cherries. (11% alc., 100 cases)
Upland Estates 2008 Ampeli Muscat Ice Wine, Snipes Mountain, $24
Todd Newhouse is the third generation in his family to tend to these vines, which were planted in 1917 in the Yakima Valley. Robert Smasne makes the wines in nearby Grandview, Wash. This opens with aromas of peaches and apricots, followed by lush, round flavors of ripe pears and apples. It's plenty sweet at 24.7% residual sugar. (10.7% alc., 90 cases)
Pontin Del Roza 2008 Ice Wine, Yakima Valley, $35
Owner/winemaker Scott Pontin oversees this family operation just north of Prosser, Wash., where he is best known for crafting superb white wines. This natural ice wine is made from estate Pinot Gris and shows off aromas of limes and oranges, followed by rich, viscous flavors of honey and limes. Its 19% residual sugar is nicely balanced with plenty of acidity. (11.5% alc., 30 cases)
Masset Winery 2008 Semillon Ice Wine, Columbia Valley, $45
Winemaker Greg Masset harvested these grapes when it was just 2 degrees out, and the yield was a minuscule 30 gallons of juice per ton. It reveals aromas of honey, spices and apricots, followed by fresh, sweet (22% residual sugar) flavors of ripe pears and apples. It's nicely balanced with bright acidity. (12% alc., 130 cases)
Inniskillin Okanagan 2008 Vidal Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $53
This wine from the rare Vidal grape - in B.C. anyway - reveals aromas of zesty lemon and honey, followed by bold, rich flavors of lemons and oranges. Its ample sweetness (22.3% residual sugar) is backed with solid acidity. (9.5% alc., 1700 cases)
Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2009 Blanco Dule, Umpqua Valley, $30
Winemaker Andrew Wenzl used estate Viognier to craft this delicious dessert wine, one of the youngest in the competition. It opens with aromas of poached pears and vanilla, followed by rich flavors of apples, pears and honey. The 15% residual sugar is backed with good acidity. (16.9% alc., 91 cases)
Ste. Chapelle 2006 Cabernet Franc Ice Wine, Idaho, $20
Veteran winemaker Chuck Devlin crafted a rare red ice wine from naturally frozen grapes in the Snake River Valley of southern Idaho. This reveals aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries and honey. It has a bold entry and a rich midpalate, thanks to the 17% residual sugar. There's even a touch of tannin on the finish of this luscious wine. (9% alc., 273 cases)
Horizon's Edge Winery 2008 Brittney's Butterfly Chardonnay Ice Wine, Rattlesnake Hills, $19
David Padgett purchased this longtime Yakima Valley winery in 2000 and has specialized in various dessert wines since. This ice wine made from Chardonnay is a favorite among fans, and we can see why. It is not overly sweet at 12.8% residual sugar, and the alluring spiciness on the nose leads to luscious flavors of ripe apples and pears on the palate. (12.6% alc., 210 cases)
Tertulia Cellars 2008 Late Harvest Semillon Ice Wine, Columbia Valley, $38
This Walla Walla, Wash., winery has crafted a superb dessert wine from the somewhat rare and often misunderstood Semillon grape. It opens with aromas of apricots, cloves and honey, followed by bold flavors of sweet lemons and oranges. It is plenty sweet at 23% residual sugar (12.9% alc., 43 cases)
Pheasant Court Winery 2005 Vice, Willamette Valley, $22
This winery near Corvalis, Ore., crafted this Viognier dessert wine from grapes frozen after harvest. It opens with aromas of apricots and honey, leading to flavors of apricots and peaches. It's fairly light in sweetness at 8% residual sugar and is backed with impressive acidity. (15% alc., 73 cases)
Long Shadows Vintners 2008 Riesling Ice Wine, Columbia Valley, $84
Winemaker Gilles Nicault crafted this wine from grapes harvested when it was just 3 degrees out, then the wine was fermented in neutral barrels. It opens with aromas of honey and hints of classic petrol, followed by rich, honeyed flavors of oranges and limes. It was the sweetest wine in our judging at 33% residual sugar. (8.4% alc., 98 cases)
Cave B Estate Winery 2008 Semillon Ice Wine, Columbia Valley, $35
Winemaker Freddy Arredondo crafted this dessert wine from grapes frozen on the vine. It opens with luscious aromas of honey, cloves and poached pears, followed by round, sweet flavors of honey and ripe orchard fruit. It's modest in its residual sugar at 12.5% and is smooth and easy-drinking through the impressive finish. (15.5% alc., 280 cases)
Anam Cara Cellars 2008 Nicholas Estate Gewurztraminer, Chehalem Mountains, $22
This winery in the northern Willamette Valley uses estate grapes for its dessert wine. The grapes were frozen after harvest, resulting in a wine that shows off aromas of cloves, honey and citrus, followed by bright flavors of fresh pears and poached apples. It's plenty sweet at 20% residual sugar and backed with solid acidity. (9% alc., 365 cases)
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2006 Pinot Blanc Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $60
For decades, Sumac Ridge has been one of B.C.'s hallmark wineries and is one of the few to make ice wine from Pinot Blanc. This is a fascinating wine with aromas of vanilla and cream soda, followed by plush flavors of pears, lemons and orange zest. The 26.4% residual sugar is backed with bright acidity. (10% alc., 500 cases)
Andy Perdue is editor of Wine Press Northwest.
Ice Wine facts
By the numbers
We judged 49 ice wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. Here are a few of the stats:
-- The judging represented 45,292 total cases of wine. One wine represented 16,000 cases.
-- The average residual sugar was 19.7%. The highest was 33%. The lowest was 8%.
-- The average alcohol was 10.9%.
-- The average price was $37. The most expensive was $100. The least expensive was $15.
-- Seventeen different appellations were represented in the judging, including: Chehalem Mountains, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Idaho, Okanagan Valley, Oregon, Rattlesnake Hills, Red Mountain, Rogue Valley, Snake River Valley, Snipes Mountain, Umpqua Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, Willamette Valley, Yakima Valley and Yamhill-Carlton District.
Icewine vs. ice wine
On most ice wines from British Columbia, you might notice the spelling as "icewine." This is a trademarked term that means the wine was made under specific conditions. In the United States, ice wines are termed "ice wine" or given a fanciful name, regardless of whether the wine was made traditionally or not.
Under Canadian rules, an icewine can be made when the grapes are frozen on the vine with temperatures reaching at least minus-8 Celsius (about 17 degrees Fahrenheit). They must use grapes from within approved viticultural areas, and the grapes must be at least 32 brix when they are harvested. When bottled, the finished wine must have at least 10% residual sugar. One rule that might be thought of as quirky is that the grapes must be driven from the vineyard to the winery in the shortest route possible. This is because at least one enterprising winemaker picked his grapes and drove them to the top of a mountain pass to make sure they were plenty frozen.
In the United States, no such rules exist, though many wineries adhere to the Canadian rules because they realize they will help make the finest examples. That said, many ice wines are made in the "cryo-extraction" method, meaning the grapes are picked, then frozen post harvest. Some wineries will even choose to freeze the juice after the grapes are pressed to bring out the nectarlike qualities. You will notice that many of the "cryo" ice wines reviewed here have names such as "Vin Glace," "Vin de Glaciere" and "Frost-Tease" to differentiate them from natural ice wines.
Pairing ice wines with food
There is perhaps no more difficult food pairing than with ice wine.
The first rule of thumb is to avoid sweet desserts, which will detract from the sweetness of the wine. In fact, most ice wine producers will tell you that the wine is better as dessert rather than with dessert.
This is what Bob Bertheau, winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle suggests. He adds that if you are planning a dessert, serve it after the ice wine with coffee.
Ice wines should be served chilled, though not necessarily ice cold. Bertheau prefers ice wines to be served at about 50 degrees. If they are too cold, the delicate aromas tend to be muted and the wine just isn't quite as enjoyable. Chill ice wine in the refrigerator but take it out about 30 minutes before serving to allow it to warm slightly.
If you are set on pairing ice wine with food, here are some suggestions:
-- Cheeses, especially blues, are wonderful with sweeter wines.
-- Foie gras. This is a classic pairing with Sauternes and works well with ice wine.
-- Creme brulee. This works especially well with ice wines made from Riesling and Ehrenfelser.
-- Fresh fruit. Everything from melons to berries to tropical fruits can pair nicely with ice wines.
-- Nuts. Toasted walnuts, pine nuts and almonds can work, especially if paired with fresh grapes or other fruits.
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