KENNEWICK — Writing a column about Wines of Substance, a consumer-priced Walla Walla label, found me both in and out of my element.
The wine labels carry bold two-letter abbreviations like Ri (Riesling), Me (Merlot), Cs (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Sy (Syrah), mimicking the periodic table of Earth's elements.
To a chemist, the periodic table listing all substances — mostly metals — with one or two letters, is one of the most important basics you have to learn before you do anything else with chemistry.
I never learned chemistry, but I did learn wine, and I found Wines of Substance tasty and affordable in the $15 to $20 range.
The periodic table of substances has a place in wine judging, in which medals such as gold, silver and copper are bandied about to rate wines. To a chemist, gold is Au, silver is Ag and copper is Cu.
To a wine writer like me, they describe wines worth trying.
Well, try Wines of Substance, because of four tasted by our Wine Press Northwest panel, two rated the equivalency of an Au and two an Ag.
Wines of Substance is a collaboration of two Walla Walla wineries — Gramercy Cellars and Waters Cellars.
The wines have proved so popular in the Seattle area that production this year will be between 7,000 and 8,000 cases, with 10 two-letter-named varieties. Included are Mb (Malbec), Vg (Viognier), Pg (Pinot Gris), Co (Counoise), Ch (Chardonnay) and Cf (Cabernet Franc).
Waters Winery founder Jason Huntley, Waters Winery winemaker Jamie Brown and Gramercy Cellars owner Greg Harrington wanted to craft a new kind of wine.
Locally, Wines of Substance are available at Yoke's and the Meadow Springs Albertsons in Richland.
Ri 2008 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $18 -- Rated "Outstanding," with peach blossom aromas and refreshing slightly sweet citrus flavors and great balance. Serve with grilled pork loin topped by peach salsa.
Me 2008 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $20 -- Also rated "Outstanding"; very smooth opening with mocha and licorice aromas and yielding to delicious raspberry, blackberry flavors. Perfect with a grilled summertime burger.
Sy 2008 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $15 -- Rated "Excellent" and loaded with aromas and flavors, including spice and cedar followed by sweet ripe cherries and some root beer essences. Try it with lasagna.
Cs 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $20 -- Rated "Excellent," it's rich and tasty with pleasing oak, chocolate, juicy ripe Bing cherries and smooth tannins. Made for a tasty steak.
-- www.winesofsubstance.com
*Bob Woehler has been writing about Pacific Northwest wines since 1978. E-mail him at bwoehler@charter.net or check out his past columns at www.winepressnw.com.
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