Andrew Brown gushes about the Walla Walla Valley family fruit he works with.
One day, he could be crushing Cabernet Sauvignon.
Another day, he might be juicing Jonagold apples.
"I knew that I was going to come back to the family business," Brown said. "I just didn't know it was going to be on the wine side."
While Brown and his family operate a top-flight cidery and the largest apple-packing house in Oregon, their 5-year-old winery has fast become world-class.
This winter marked the latest examples of critical acclaim. The Watermill 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2006 Estate Midnight Red Wine both were awarded a Platinum in Wine Press Northwest's 2009 Platinum Competition.
In January, Watermill's 2008 Late Harvest Gewurztraminer captured the Dessert Sweepstakes at the 2010 San Francisco Chronicle - the world's largest competition of American wines.
A product of Biscuit Ridge Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley, Brown's wine was the only one from the North-west to win a sweepstakes award in the Sonoma judging.
"That was one of the cult wines in Walla Walla when it was made at Three Rivers - one that people would come running for, and we've found the same results," Brown said. "Duane Wollmuth still owns the vineyard, and we harvested 4.2 tons that year. Last year, there was a lot of animal damage, so I was only able to pick up a ton. But it's still a fun wine and it was definitely my favorite ferment of 2008."
Judges also admired other Watermill wines in 2009.
The 2006 Walla Walla Valley Syrah won gold at the 2009 Northwest Wine Summit, and that 2006 Cab also earned double gold at the 2009 Seattle Wine Awards and gold at the 2009 San Francisco International.
Brown, 26, who has taken a few classes in the wine program at Walla Walla Community College, is quick to heap credit upon his family and Richard Funk of Saviah Cellars.
"I went to the Rich Funk school of winemaking," Brown said. "Every-thing I know I owe to Rich."
Their close relationship began in 2001 when the Brown family purchased 100 cases of Saviah Cellars wine to include in Blue Mountain Cider Co. gift boxes.
"I was going to HVAC school and needed a job, and Rich needed a guy from 5 p.m. to midnight to rack (Saviah Cellars) wine every night," Brown said. "So we worked the night shift, and it worked out perfect for both of us. We had a lot of good times."
In 2005, three generations of Browns entered the wine business with 1,800 cases.
Funk was the head winemaker. Andrew was the assistant. He took over for the 2008 harvest, which will result in 3,800 cases and nine offerings from 75 acres of estate vineyards.
First planted was the Anna Marie block (2001), which overlooks the Walla Walla Valley and supplies fruit for Northstar Winery.
McClellan Estate got started in 2003. It's adjacent to Seven Hills Vineyard and owned by the mother of Casey McClellan - winemaker of Seven Hills Winery. However, the Browns farm it for Saviah, Seven Hills and, of course, Watermill.
And then there's Watermill Estate, a 12-acre site set in cobblestones of the ancient riverbed in 2006.
"My house is in that vineyard, and I could throw a rock and hit Cayuse's winery," Brown said. "Those grapes already are producing intense colors in the Malbec, Syrah and Cab Franc."
And then there's 1,200 acres of orchard fruit. It's a bushel of a responsibility for the husband and father of two girls.
"I'm always making cider," Brown said with a chuckle. "I've made 5,000 gallons in the past three days. With the ability of cold storage and controlled atmosphere, we can store apples up to 12 months."
But his wine is the apple of our eye.
Watermill Winery, 235 E. Broadway, Milton-Freewater, OR, 97862, 541-938-5575, watermillwinery.com
Print
E-Mail
