Spring brings a sublime selection of fresh foods to Northwest kitchens: baby greens, peas and herbs; new-laid eggs and grass-fed lamb; and the first catches of salmon and halibut.
Our sublime spring feast begins with a fun-to-eat, easy-to-make appetizer: Smoked Salmon Potato Crisps. Begin by arranging 24 plain baked potato chips on a pretty serving platter. Place a bite-sized piece of best-quality hot-smoked salmon (such as the Alderwood Smoked Salmon available at Pure Food Fish in the Pike Place Market or online at www.freshseafood.com) over each chip. Dab each piece of salmon with creme fraîche or sour cream, then (with clean kitchen shears) snip some fresh dill or fresh chives over the chips.
Serve the crisps with Mountain Dome NV Brut sparkling wine ($16, Columbia Valley). Fruity but dry, this bubbly beauty tickles the nose and palate with aromas and flavors of apple, pear and spice. I love the six whimsical gnomes (who represent the family members who make the wine) on its festive label.
We continue our fresh spring feast by stirring up a batch of Coconut-Orange Scallop Soup. Heat a tablespoon of peanut oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and add one tablespoon of grated fresh ginger and four halved garlic cloves. Cook (stirring constantly) 1 to 2 minutes, then add a pinch of hot red-pepper flakes, the zest of one orange, half a cup of mirin (Japanese rice wine) and two (14-ounce) cans of vegetable broth plus one-and-one-half cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 10 minutes.
Strain the broth and add it back to the pot. Add one cup of coconut milk, stir well and bring to a simmer. Add one pound of bay or sea scallops (halved or quartered) and half a cup of shelled English peas and cook until the scallops just turn opaque.
Serve the soup with Milbrandt Vineyards 2007 Traditions Riesling ($14, Columbia Valley), whose aromas and flavors of orange blossom and stone fruit mirror the tropical notes in the soup and whose balanced acidity cuts through the soup's lush coconut flavor.
Our sublime spring entree, Leg of Lamb with Fresh Herb Crust, comes from The Complete Meat Cookbook (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2001, $35). To make the crust, combine two tablespoons each fresh rosemary leaves and fresh thyme leaves in a food processor along with two garlic cloves, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-quarter teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper and two tablespoons of olive oil. Blend to form a coarse paste.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush one 6- to 8-pound whole leg of lamb (trimmed of most of the visible fat, shank intact, hip bone removed, flaps of meat skewered or sewn together) with the crust mixture and let sit at room temperature for up to two hours. Roast the lamb in the middle of the oven for one hour. When the internal temperature of the thickest part reads 115° to 120°F, remove it from the oven for rare lamb or continue cooking to medium. Let the meat rest for at least 20 minutes (loosely covered with foil) before carving and serving.
Serve the lamb with R. Stuart & Co. 2007 Big Fire Pinot Noir ($18, Oregon), a juicy Pinot rife with red-fruit goodness (cherry, cranberry, raspberry). Combined with medium body and a velvety mouth feel, it makes a potent combination with the earthy, herbaceous lamb.
We conclude our sublime spring supper with Souffleed Omelet with Lemon Cream Sauce, a recipe from Short Cuts to Great Cuisine (The Crossing Press, 1994, $12.95). To make the sauce, whisk one-half cup each lemon curd and heavy cream in a small bowl until smooth. Cover and chill.
Make the omelet by separating three large eggs. Place the yolks in a medium bowl and the whites in a small one. With an electric mixer, beat the whites until frothy and slightly thickened. Sprinkle with two tablespoons sugar and continue to beat until opaque and barely stiff.
Without washing the beaters, whisk the yolks with two tablespoons of sugar plus one-half teaspoon of pure vanilla extract until thick and smooth. Heat two tablespoons of unsalted butter in a large, well-seasoned or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, gently fold the whites into the yolks.
Swirl the butter around the pan and pour in the eggs. Cook until the omelet is slightly puffed and golden on the underside, one to two minutes. Slide the cooked side out of the pan onto a dinner plate, then cover the uncooked side with the skillet. Turn the plate over the skillet and cook the underside until golden.
Cut the omelet into quarters, plate them, drizzle with the sauce and serve immediately with Northwest Totem Cellars 2006 Elerding Vineyard Late Harvest Viognier ($27/375ml, Yakima Valley), a light and aromatic dessert wine whose ripe flavors of tropical fruits (pineapple and passion fruit) work so well with the fluffy eggs and creamy citrus sauce.
Now, raise your glass and fork in harmony and give thanks to spring - the sublime season!
BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 18 years. She is the author of seven books, including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining (Wiley, 2007). and is a regular contributor to The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine and Amazon.com's Al Dente blog. Read her blog, Northwest Notes, online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com.
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