Sunday, Mar. 07, 2010

Merlot: Still standing

By Andy Perdue, Wine Press Northwest

A decade ago, Merlot was a favorite son in Washington. In fact, the red grape of Bordeaux was nearly synonymous with Washington wine.

Along the way, interest in Merlot has not necessarily waned, but it hasn't skyrocketed either. For example, in 2001, Washington harvested 23,400 tons of Merlot. Last fall, that number was 24,800. In 2001, Merlot was Washington's No. 2 grape, behind Chardonnay. By last fall, it was No. 4, behind Chardonnay, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The reasons for this lack of growth for Merlot are many. A decade ago, interest in Syrah quickly rose, garnering a lot of attention from winemakers and consumers alike. Since 2001, the amount of Riesling harvested in Washington has tripled. And Cabernet Sauvignon - referred to by many winemakers as "King Cab" - has steadily marched forward.

And, of course, the 2004 Oscar-nominated Sideways disparaged Merlot in the eyes of America in one five-second scene.

For consumers, Merlot often is viewed as the unsophisticated little brother to Cab. It's supposed to be simpler, smoother and less expensive. Yet in Washington in particular, Merlot is often a more muscular wine than Cab. And the reason has to do with the Columbia Valley's soil. British wine writer Jancis Robinson wrote in her book Vines, Grapes & Wines that Merlot tends to grow very well in high-quality soils and can get too vigorous, resulting in green wines. Washington wine country, however, has perfectly lousy soils. They're sandy and don't hold water. The near-constant sun provides plenty of heat and little precipitation. Vines struggle to survive. And what doesn't kill them helps them produce grapes that can make great wines.

"You have to be really careful with too much vigor," said Mike Januik, owner/winemaker of Januik Winery in Woodinville and winemaker for Novelty Hill. "If you aren't careful, you can get too much of that herbal character because we're much more careful with crop levels."

In our blind judging of 155 Northwest Merlots, three wines made by Januik earned our top "Outstanding" rating. The former Chateau Ste. Michelle head winemaker has been making Washington wine since 1984 and Merlot since 1987. The secret to his success is to have focus.

"I've been doing Merlot for a long time, and I have a really clear idea of the style of wine I want to make. I'm big on having a clear style and trying to be true to it."

Two of Januik's favorite vineyards are Klipsun on Red Mountain and Stillwater Creek in the Frenchman Hills near Royal City, Wash.

"If I were to pick the best variety for these two vineyards, I would pick Merlot," he said.

As for the future of Merlot, Januik isn't too concerned.

"People are still interested in Merlot," he said. "Yes, Cab is king. But there's still considerable interest in Merlot, though not at the same price point as Cab. People have gotten past Sideways, too, because our Merlot reminds them more of Cab than Merlot."

In our judging, 15 wines earned our top "Outstanding" rating. While Washington wines dominated the results, wineries from British Columbia and Oregon also showed their prowess with Merlot.

Our judges included Kate Michaud, winemaker for Covey Run Winery; David "Merf" Merfeld, winemaker for Northstar Winery; Charlie Hoppes, owner/winemaker of Fidelitas Wines; Thomas Henick-Kling, director of viticulture and enology for Washington State University; Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest tasting editor; Coke Roth, former wine distributor and longtime member of Wine Press Northwest's tasting panel; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; and David Seaver, member of Wine Press Northwest's tasting panel. Hank Sauer facilitated the judging and ensured it was conducted properly and the results were accurate. Though the three winemakers had wines in the competition, they did not judge them. The judging was conducted Jan. 23 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.

Outstanding

Whitman Cellars 2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $32

Winemaker Steve Lessard learned his craft in California before migrating to Washington in the mid-1990s. He has led this Walla Walla, Wash., winery's superb efforts since 2002, and this is among the finest wines he has crafted to date. Lessard blended 80% Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Cabernet Franc from Pepper Bridge and Birch Creek vineyards. The resulting wine is a classic Washington Merlot with aromas of cranberries, pomegranates and raspberries, followed by flavors of bright red flavors backed with fruit-lifting acidity. It is elegantly balanced with ripe fruit, well-integrated oak and mild tannins, all of which give way to a lingering finish that includes dark chocolate. (728 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Januik Winery 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $25

As head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle, Mike Januik became well versed in where Washington's best Merlot was grown. In the 11 years since leaving Washington's flagship winery, he has continued to evolve his winemaking style. This Merlot (blended with 5% Cab and 1% Cab Franc) comes from four top vineyards: Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, Weinbau and Conner Lee. The resulting wine provides aromas of red currants, Bing cherries and a whisper of smokiness, followed by bright, rich flavors of Rainier cherries that lead to a luscious jamminess on the midpalate and a lengthy finish. (1,251 cases, 14.4% alc.)

La Stella Winery 2007 Maestoso Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $85

This young winery near the U.S. border is headed by Daniel Bontorin, who was the head winemaker for sister winery Le Vieux Pin before coming to La Stella. This Merlot is La Stella's flagship wine, and the grapes were grown at a remarkable one ton per acre. It opens with aromas of cranberries and red cherries, followed by focused, concentrated flavors of Van cherries, raspberry jam and complex dark fruit. Backing all the fruit are well-balanced tannins, providing this wine with near-perfect structure for aging it a decade or more. (125 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley, $28

Stillwater Creek is the estate vineyard for this Woodinville, Wash., winery. In fact, winemaker Mike Januik was instrumental in the decision to plant the vineyard in the Frenchman Hills above the town of Royal City. It's a remarkable vineyard, and winemakers around the state have been gravitating toward it for the past several years. This is a classic Washington Merlot, with aromas of wild sage and Bing cherries, followed by concentrated flavors of black olives, dark cherries and even some dark chocolate on the finish. (171 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Saviah Cellars 2006 Reserve Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $45

Owner/winemaker Richard Funk has made his reputation for stunning red wines. This reserve wine uses grapes from his estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley that were aged 21 months in French oak barrels. The result is a superb Merlot with aromas of black plums, sweet spices and chocolate, followed by flavors of ripe black cherries backed with black olives and dark chocolate. It opens with fairly dense tannins that mellow quickly in the face of a freight train of fruit that results in a balanced, beautiful wine. (100 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Januik Winery 2007 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot, Red Mountain, $35

Perhaps the most famous vineyard in Washington, Klipsun is on warm Red Mountain, on the eastern edge of the Yakima Valley. Klipsun has a reputation for grapes that become bold wines, though in the hands of a great winemaker, they can be tamed. Owner/winemaker Mike Januik blended 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, which added structure and just the right amount of boldness to this silky wine. It reveals aromas of raspberries, dried cherries, milk chocolate and Graham crackers, followed by flavors of ripe strawberries and well-managed oak, all backed by silky tannins. This is a juicy, generous wine. (171 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Nk'Mip Cellars 2007 Qwam Qwmt Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $27

Randy Picton joined this operation near the U.S. border in time for its first harvest in 2002 and has turned it into one of the province's finest producers. This reserve-level Merlot reveals complex aromas of red and dark cherries with hints of vanilla and oak. On the palate are flavors of ripe black cherries and delicious raspberries. Assertive tannins back up all the fruit. This is a big wine with a bold finish and could use a marbled ribeye to tame it a bit. (2,696 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2005 Barrel Select Merlot, Columbia Valley, $35

Our 2010 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year is starting its reign off right by crafting one of the top Merlots in our competition. Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker turned to his favorite vineyards (Upland on Snipes Mountain, Klingele in the Yakima Valley and his estate vineyard in Chelan) for this superb wine. Its aromas are loaded with red fruit, tar and spicy oak, followed by layered flavors of red and blue fruit, all expertly balanced and luscious through the lengthy finish. (200 cases, 14.5% alc.)

L'Ecole No. 41 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $36

Owner/winemaker Marty Clubb also is a co-owner of famed Seven Hills Vineyard, and this bold Merlot comes from there. The vineyard is on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, one of the most treasured plantings in the region. This opens with aromas of dark fruit, black olives and ample oak, followed by a bold entry with flavors of black cherries, black olives and a hint of licorice. It's a young wine that is showing a fair bit of oak at the moment, though this should mellow with another year of bottle time. (1,326 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Zerba Cellars 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $30

Doug Nierman honed his skills at Long Shadows and Pepper Bridge before taking over head winemaking duties at this fellow Walla Walla Valley producer. And he has Zerba flying high with one superb release after another. This luscious red opens with exotic aromas of plums, black cherries, wild berries and pencil shavings, followed by rich flavors of red and black fruit and even a hint of cranapples, all backed with well-balanced tannins through the lengthy finish. (506 cases, 14.4% alc.)

14 Hands 2007 Merlot, Washington, $12

The biggest bargain of our top wines is this Ste. Michelle Wine Estates label that most often is found on restaurant wine lists. Keith Kenison, who oversees the white wine program for giant Columbia Crest, heads the 14 Hands efforts, and he has a wine to be proud of here. It opens with elegant aromas of red cherries, cranberries, sweet herbs and a whisper of smoke, followed by layered flavors of olives, black plums, strawberry jam and luscious chocolate. Startling acidity and delicate tannins provide drink-now structure. Buy this by the case and make it your house wine. (100,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Silkscarf Winery 2006 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $42

This young winery in Summerland, B.C., relies on its 10-acre vineyard to craft nearly a dozen selections. It used estate grapes for this reserve-level Merlot, which opens with aromas of Baker's chocolate, mocha and deep black cherries. On the palate, this opens with lively flavors of cranberries and fresh raspberries with hints of black cherries and anise. The tannins are ample yet expertly held in check as they beautifully back all the fruit. (65 cases, 13% alc.)

Westport Winery 2008 Boom Runner Reserve Merlot, Washington, $29

Since this coastal winery hit our radar last year, its wines have continued to impress us. One of its Cabs earned our top rating last fall, and now its Reserve Merlot ranks amid the best. This opens with aromas of lingonberries, black currants, black cherries and baked brie, followed by intense flavors of boysenberries and white strawberries. It's a refreshing wine with moderate tannins and plenty of food-pairing possibilities. (99 cases, 12% alc.)

Sineann 2008 Champoux Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley, $36

Our 2010 Oregon Winery of the Year has a remarkable way of acquiring some of the Northwest's greatest grapes. In this case, owner/winemaker Peter Rosback crafted a Merlot from what is arguably Washington's finest vineyard: Champoux in the Horse Heaven Hills. The result is a wine whose aromas reminded us of cranberry ice cream as well as notes of sweet herbs and black currants. On the palate are rich flavors of Van cherries and blackberries. This wine exemplifies just how smooth and luscious a Washington Merlot can be. (168 cases, 15.1% alc.)

Zerba Cellars 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $45

Doug Nierman blended grapes from five vineyards: two in the Yakima Valley and three in the Walla Walla Valley. The result is a complex and robust wine with aromas of spicy berries, black cherries, black raspberries and chocolate, followed by bold flavors of black tea, leather, olives, plums and cherries. Smooth tannins back this rich, fruit-driven wine. (379 cases, 14.83% alc.)

Excellent

Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Boomtown Merlot, Columbia Valley, $15

We've come to expect this Walla Walla Valley winery's products to bubble up in our blind judgings, and it's gratifying to see Dusted Valley's value label do so well. This includes a bit of Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon blended in for complexity. This offers aromas of cherries, leather, red plums and chocolate, followed by flavors of of black cherries, dark chocolate and blackberries. Supple tannins provide just the right amount of structure. (1,500 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Barnard Griffin Winery 2007 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $30

Rob Griffin migrated north from California more than three decades ago and has established himself as one of the state's greatest winemakers. This is one of three Merlots he crafts, and it is a beauty. It opens with aromas of cranberries, red cherries and Graham crackers, followed by flavors of bright red fruit backed with racy acidity and a luscious mouth feel. This is still a very young wine and is only going to improve for the next three or four years. (277 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Columbia Crest 2006 Block 08 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $35

Winemaker Ray Einberger worked at top wineries in Bordeaux and California before coming north in the early '90s to work for Columbia Crest. He is fascinated with Merlot because it can often be a bigger wine than Cabernet Sauvignon. This block-designated reserve-level wine is among his favorites at the Paterson, Wash., winery. It opens with aromas of sweet herbs, ripe raspberries and cranberries, followed by flavors of black tea, ripe cherries and herbal undertones. The beautiful acidity and moderate tannins carry the fruit to a long, chocolaty finish. (300 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Indian Wells Merlot, Columbia Valley, $18

This wine gets its name from the Indian Wells Vineyard on the western Wahluke Slope but also uses grapes from elsewhere on this warm benchland. Winemaker Bob Bertheau also blended in Syrah and a bit of Malbec to provide roundness and complexity. The resulting wine provides concentrated aromas of Bing cherries, cedar, black currants and vanilla, followed by luscious flavors of pomegranates, chocolate, black olives, black cherries and black tea. It has plenty of structure for pairing with marbled beef or rich pasta dishes. (23,000 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Covey Run Winery 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $9

In the past two decades, this winery has developed into one of the most consistent value brands in the Pacific Northwest. It's now owned by Ascentia Wine Estates in California, and Kate Michaud oversees winemaking. This Merlot opens with beautiful aromas of pomegranates, cherries and hints of oak, followed by racy flavors of cranberries, raspberry jam, tea and black olive. It is a classic Washington Merlot that should pair well with everything from flank steak to rich pasta dishes. (17,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Dunham Cellars 2006 Lewis Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley, $75

Undoubtedly, Lewis Vineyard is winemaker Eric Dunham's favorite site. These vines have been the backbone of Dunham's wines for more than a decade. Because of Dunham's pioneering winemaking with the site, many wineries now craft Lewis Vineyard-designated wines. This Merlot reveals aromas of sweet herbs, vanilla and oak integrated with ripe berries, followed by well-integrated flavors of bold dark fruit and delicious herbal undertones. (462 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Kyra Wines 2007 Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $16

Owner/winemaker Kyra Baerlocher used grapes from her estate Pheasant Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope for this stylish wine. It's a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. On the aromas, it provides notes of dark blackberries, blueberries and spices, followed by bold flavors of ripe dark fruit and hints of maple syrup. Lean tannins provide youthful approachability, and bright acidity lends this wine to all kinds of food-pairing potential. (283 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $28

Bob Jankelson has created a world-class destination winery on the south shore of Lake Chelan in north-central Washington, and his wines have backed up the beautiful setting, facility and vineyards. This Merlot is a delicious example of what Washington Merlot represents, with aromas of red and black cherries mingling with mint and hints of oak. On the palate, this opens with elegant flavors of Rainier cherries, vanilla and minerality, all backed with beautifully balanced acidity and tannin. (1,283 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Tertulia Cellars 2007 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $32

This small producer in the Walla Walla Valley has the knack of obtaining fruit from some top vineyards. This is no exception, as Pepper Bridge grapes are among the most-sought-after in the valley. This Merlot opens with aromas of cranberries, pomegranates and black cherries, followed by pronounced flavors of plums, cherries and sweet herbs. It's a bold wine up front, though the ripe fruit catches up with the rich tannins through the midpalate and lengthy finish. (170 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Watermill Winery 2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $24

Our 2010 Oregon Winery to Watch is in the Walla Walla Valley town of Milton-Freewater, and winemaker Andrew Brown is quickly turning Watermill into one of the bright young stars in the valley. This wine's pedigree includes grapes from Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills West and McClellan. They meld into a Merlot with aromas of delicious red cherries, pomegranates and black tea, followed by racy flavors that balance ripe red fruit, bright acidity and lush tannins. A nice sweetness from oak aging adds just that much more complexity. (114 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Novelty Hill 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $22

Winemaker Mike Januik blended grapes from estate Stillwater Creek Vineyard with Alder Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills) and Klipsun (Red Mountain) to craft this Merlot. It includes a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) for complexity. The result is a wine that opens with aromas of dense black cherries, rosemary, rose hips, blueberries and slate, followed by flavors of black currants, juicy black cherries and hints of chocolate. It's all backed with brilliant structure. (2,151 cases, 14.4% alc.)

San Juan Vineyards 2006 Merlot, Yakima Valley, $23

This winery near Friday Harbor, Wash., crosses the Cascades to bring home grapes from Kestrel View Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It already has won four gold medals. It reveals aromas of light cherries, inviting berries and light oak, followed by bright flavors of cherries, cranberries and ripe red plums. Its bold tannins offer plenty of structure to back up all the fruit. Pair with a hearty Italian dish or grilled ribeye. (351 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Columbia Crest 2007 Grand Estates Merlot, Columbia Valley, $11

More Merlot comes out of this Paterson, Wash., winery than anywhere else in America, so winemaker Ray Einberger has a great handle on how to craft delicious wines in large quantities. The grapes for this wine come primarily from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope. On the aromas are notes of vanilla extract, fruit leather, Bing cherries and even Oreo cookies, followed by flavors of raspberries and cranberries. It's a bright wine with a decent amount of grip in the midpalate. It's a superb wine for everyday consumption. (200,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Solena Cellars 2006 Wooldridge Creek Vineyard Merlot, Applegate Valley, $25

Deep in Southern Oregon, this vineyard flies under the radar of most, but owner/winemaker Laurent Montalieu's ability to sniff out top grapes is uncanny. This wine unveils aromas of pomegranates and red cherries, followed by a fruit-driven wine that shows off ripe Rainier cherries and raspberries. Its well-integrated tannins beautifully back up all the fruit. (71 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Fidelitas Wines 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $25

When you've made wine in Washington as long as Charlie Hoppes, you get to know just about every row of vines. The Ste. Michelle alum is nearly a decade into owning Fidelitas, and he is honing his focus on Bordeaux varieties. This wine makes use of grapes from six vineyards, with the majority coming from Conner Lee, Stillwater Creek and Weinbau. It opens with aromas of Chukar cherries, flint and a hint of coffee, followed by rich, creamy, juicy flavors of marionberries, cherries and chocolate. (1,003 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Mercer Estates 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $24

Winemaker David Forsyth crafted this wine from 83% Merlot with 10% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. He used grapes from Desert Wind Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope and McKinley Springs Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The resulting wine opens with concentrated aromas of Bing cherries, black cherries and understated oak, followed by bright, lush flavors of red cherries and raspberries. The oak is well-integrated and the acidity provides ample structure. (3,395 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2006 Barrel Select Merlot, Columbia Valley, $35

Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker used grapes from three of his favorite vineyards: Stillwater Creek, Snipes Canyon and his estate vineyard on a bluff above Lake Chelan. This opens with aromas of sweet oak, spicy blueberries, cherries and vanilla, followed by lush flavors of raspberries, blackberries, licorice and chocolate. Firm tannins back up all the ripe, delicious fruit. (266 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $25

Winemaker Hagen Kruger is best known for his stunning white wines, but he is rounding out his reputation with red wines like this. In years when the quality of the wines warrants it, Kruger crafts a reserve wine from his 10 best barrels. This example opens with aromas of chocolate, plums and blackberries, followed by dark, ripe, rich flavors of darker-toned fruit with underlying herbal notes. (200 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Woodward Canyon 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $39

Owner/winemaker Rick Small launched this Lowden, Wash., winery in 1981 and has become world renowned for his red wines. He used fruit from four vineyards, with the majority coming from Weinbau on the Wahluke Slope. He blended in 14% Cabernet Sauvignon for structure and flavor. It opens with aromas of Black Forest cake, portabello mushrooms and black cherries, followed by luscious red and black cherries backed by well-managed tannins and lovely texture. (941 cases, 15% alc.)

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Gravity Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, $24

Jarrod Boyle owns and operates Destiny Ridge, a 243-acre vineyard overlooking the Columbia River in the Horse Heaven Hills. He pulls double duty as winemaker for his Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Prosser and Woodinville. This includes 16% Malbec and small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carmenere. It reveals aromas and flavors of ripe cherries, cedar and hints of chocolate with a luscious mouth feel and nice breadth. (388 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Caterina Winery 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $18

This longtime Spokane winery (it opened in 1993) is in the historic Broadview Dairy building. Don Townshend of Townshend Cellar has now purchased the winery. This wine opens with cheerful aromas of cranberries, Rainier cherries and hints of leather, followed by bright flavors of red and black cherries, all backed with velvety tannins and a rich, luscious finish. (500 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Columbia Crest 2006 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $22

Winemaker Ray Einberger blended 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc into this limited-release wine. It reveals complex aromas of cinnamon, chocolate and cherries, followed by flavors of licorice, black cherries, a hint of coffee and chocolaty tannins. It's a fun, delicious wine. (3,000 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Covey Run Winery 2005 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $12

This has to be one of the most affordable reserve-level wines in the Pacific Northwest. Leave it to Covey Run, which has been crafting superb wines since 1982. Kate Michaud heads up winemaking for this large operation. This wine provides aromas of red cherries and raspberries, followed by luscious dark fruit flavors, bright acidity and chocolaty tannins. It's a well-structured wine built to pair with hearty dishes and priced for everyday enjoyment. (5,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Desert Wind Winery 2006 Desert Wind Vineyard Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $18

The Fries family has constructed a showpiece winery overlooking the Yakima River in Prosser, Wash., complete with a gorgeous tasting room, cooking facilities and a resort-style inn. The grapes for this Merlot come from estate fruit on the highly regarded Desert Wind Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. The result is a wine with aromas of red currants and cherries, followed by flavors of red plums, red cherries, raspberry jam and chocolate. It's a bright, luscious wine. (3,129 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $30

The Ferreira family is from Portugal and farms 20 acres of vineyards on the venerable Black Sage Bench near the Okanagan Valley town of Oliver, B.C. They planted the vineyard in 1999 after farming the land as orchards for more than two decades. This Merlot provides aromas of black cherries, leather, kitchen spices and nicely understated oak, followed by flavors of rich dark fruit, dark chocolate and spices, all backed with elegant fine-grained tannins. It's a beautifully crafted wine. (475 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $10

Joy Andersen is the longest-tenured winemaker in Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, having overseen Snoqualmie's wines since 1991. She's also making some of the consistently best wines in Washington because she prefers elegance and balance over power and richness. Because of this, Snoqualmie's wines are even better values than the price tag would indicate. This affordable red opens with aromas of cherries, spicy chocolate and black licorice, followed by flavors of dark chocolate, Mexican cocoa, plums, olives and black cherries. (18,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Stag's Hollow Winery and Vineyard 2007 SHV Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $25

Located on the Corkscrew Trail near Okanagan Falls, B.C., this longtime winery often flies under the radar because it tends to be low key. But do not underestimate the wines crafted by Dwight Sick. This Merlot includes a small amount (5%) of Cabernet Sauvignon; in fact the two grapes are harvested at the same time and co-fermented. The result is a wine with finesse. It provides aromas of pomegranates, spices and cherries, followed by flavors of cranberries and red currants. It's a balanced wine with smooth tannins and a lengthy finish. (238 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2007 Barrel Select Merlot, Columbia Valley, $35

The youngest of owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker's three Merlot entries in this judging is a bold statement. It opens with aromas of chocolate and ripe red plums, followed by concentrated flavors of black cherries, blackberries and dark chocolate. It's a mouth-filling wine that would pair especially well with a flat-iron steak. (375 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Volcano Vineyards 2006 Fortmiller Vineyard Merlot, Rogue Valley, $24

Liz and Scott Ratcliff run their winery and tasting lounge in Bend, Ore., and bring in grapes from the warm Rogue Valley to the southwest. This Merlot comes from Fortmiller, a vineyard farmed by Don and Traute Moore, considered by many to be the finest growers in the Rogue. The wine opens with aromas of cranberries, Chelan cherries, red currants and sweet herbs, followed by pleasing flavors of ripe red plums, cherries and chocolate on the finish. It's a lush wine with delicious length. (357 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Basel Cellars 2006 Pheasant Run Vineyard Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Winemaker Justin Basel didn't have to travel far from his gorgeous wine facility south of Walla Walla for this wine. It opens with fascinating aromas that reminded us of orange pound cake, along with kitchen spices, followed by elegant flavors of focused red and black fruit, all backed with supple tannins. (715 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Duck Pond Cellars 2005 Desert Wind Vineyard Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $12

The Fries family operates two large wineries, Duck Pond in Dundee, Ore., and Desert Wind in Prosser, Wash. For some wines, the grapes cross the Columbia River, as is the case with what essentially is an estate vineyard. This wine opens with aromas of red cherry candy, mint and orange oil, followed by flavors of ripe Van cherries, cranberries and hints of chocolate. It's a bright wine with soft tannins, making this an approachable, food-worthy red. (12,761 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Griffin Creek 2007 Merlot, Rogue Valley, $30

For more than a decade, this second label for Willamette Valley Vineyards has focused on Southern Oregon grapes, specifically Quail Run Vineyard in the Rogue Valley. It is a classic Merlot with aromas of cranberries, Rainier cherries and pomegranates, followed by rugged flavors of red cherries and ripe plums. The fairly bold tannins meld with the rich fruit, giving this balance and also making it a strong candidate for serving with grilled meats. (325 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Kalamar Winery 2004 Merlot, Yakima Valley, $30

Mark Kalamar has been making statements with superb Merlots since opening this winery in 1999 near Puyallup. The grapes for this wine come from highly regarded Snipes Canyon Vineyard near Prosser, Wash. The result is a wine with aromas of a freshly baked cherry pie and a whisper of alder smoke, followed by flavors of black cherries and just a touch of chocolate. It's a medium-bodied wine that could pair well with cedar-plank salmon or leaner cuts of beef. (236 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Kiona Vineyards Winery 2002 Reserve Merlot, Red Mountain, $30

One of the oldest wines in our judging, this reserve-level Merlot from estate grapes is aging elegantly. It reveals aromas of dark plums, red cherries, red licorice and sweet herbs, followed by flavors of black cherries, hints of chocolate and inviting sweet oak. This could age nicely for another half-decade, though it would seem to be peaking now. (700 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Le Vieux Pin 2007 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $65

Our 2008 British Columbia Winery to Watch is cropping its grapes to tiny levels - at times just a ton per acre - to gain every bit of concentration it can out of its fruit. In this case, the wine reveals aromas of tar, chocolate, red raspberries and even beets, followed by plush flavors of blueberries and pie cherries. Gripping tannins back all the fruit, leading us to believe it could age nicely for another few years or pair nicely in the near term with a sirloin steak. (552 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Tamarack Cellars 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $28

When Ron Coleman launched this Walla Walla airport winery in 1997, his early focus was Merlot. He's branched out into many different varieties and styles, but his Merlot remains one of his finest efforts year after year. This wine has 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc blended in, using grapes from seven vineyards in five appellations. The result is a complex wine with aromas of chocolate, cherries and dusty herbs, followed by flavors of chocolate, fresh-brewed espresso, mint and ripe red cherries. (1,400 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Westport Winery 2008 Mermaid's Merlot, Washington, $23

This coastal winery in Grays Harbor County seems to enjoy the creative side of naming its wines almost as much as making them. This is a young, flavorful wine loaded with aromas of boysenberries, coffee, chocolate and cherries, followed by bold flavors of ripe berries and bright cherries. It's a big wine, yet the tannins are so tightly integrated, they come off as harmonious. (124 cases, 12% alc.)

Barnard Griffin Winery 2007 Merlot, Washington, $17

For this Merlot, winemaker Rob Griffin turned to three of his favorite vineyards: Wahluke Slope, Caroway and Sagemoor. The resulting wine reveals complex aromas of cherries and slate, followed by flavors of black cherries, black pepper and rich chocolate. It's a bright, juicy wine that is only going to get better for the next three years. (3,600 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Cadaretta 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $35

French-born and -trained winemaker Virginie Bourgue has been producing wines in the Walla Walla Valley for a number of years and is taking this relatively young operation to new heights in a hurry. The grapes come from three vineyards: Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills, Spring Creek in the Yakima Valley and Pepper Bridge in the Walla Walla Valley. The wine reveals aromas of intriguing sandalwood as well as cherries and coffee beans, followed by flavors of ripe wild strawberries, black cherries and chocolaty tannins. (112 cases, 14.1% alc.)

E.B. Foote Winery 2005 Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $18

Owner/winemaker Sherrill Miller crafts her wines in Burien near Sea-Tac Airport. The grapes for this Merlot come from Arianses and Milbrandt vineyards on the warm Wahluke Slope, and Miller added just a touch (3%) of Cabernet Franc. It opens with intriguing aromas of strawberries, rose petals, watermelon candy and just a touch of lime zest. The wine eases onto the palate with flavors of ripe cherries and strawberries with acidity rather than tannin as the structural focus. It's a beautifully made and affordable wine. (465 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Magnificent Wine Co. 2007 Original Merlot, Columbia Valley, $22

Walla Walla's Charles Smith is a marketing genius who has taken his Magnificent Wine concept to stunning success. The wines are sold through Precept Brands in Seattle, meaning they are broadly distributed. This luscious red shows off aromas of chocolate and black cherries, followed by lush, lusty flavors loaded with chocolate and rich fruit. It's a versatile wine that works if you just want to sip a glass or pair with a hearty meal. (2,000 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Nk'Mip Cellars 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $20

This operation just over the border from the United States is the first aboriginal-owned winery in North America. The Osoyoos Band has created an amazing destination that includes the winery, a restaurant and guest houses. The wines, crafted by Randy Picton, are consistently high in quality, and this mainstream Merlot is no exception. It opens with aromas of cherries, spices and smoke, followed by ripe, bold flavors of raspberries, cherries and plums. Smooth tannins make this an approachable wine in its youth. (3,879 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Pend d'Oreille Winery 2005 Merlot, Washington, $21

Owner/winemaker Steve Meyer is in his 15th year crafting great wines in Idaho's Panhandle. He relies primarily on Washington grapes, and this wine uses fruit from the Columbia and Walla Walla valleys and Horse Heaven Hills. It shows off aromas of spicy black fruit, leather and oak, followed by rich, lush flavors of plums and cherries backed with well-integrated tannins. (425 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Red Diamond 2007 Merlot, Washington, $7

This label made by Columbia Crest once resided primarily on restaurant wine lists but now is a mainstream brand. Juan Munoz-Oca, red winemaker for Columbia Crest, oversees the Red Diamond label, and this bottling is the largest-production wine of our judging - and of Northwest Merlots - with more than a quarter-million cases. It's a delicious everyday wine with lovely aromas of black cherries, ripe plums and chocolate, followed by balanced flavors of ripe, round, lush fruit. It's a smooth and luscious red from start to finish. (270,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $20

Our 2009 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year in Okanagan Falls has crafted a delicious Merlot with aromas of cedar, chocolate, oregano, mint and cherry, followed by clean flavors of red fruit with rich balanced tannins and bright acidity. The judges were able to easily identify this for its fascinating cool-climate characteristics. (400 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Columbia Crest 2007 H3 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, $15

The Northwest's largest winery is in Washington's Horse Heaven Hills, an appellation with thousands of acres of wine grapes. That is the inspiration for this fairly new label for Columbia Crest. This wine offers aromas of cinnamon, mint, dark chocolate and raspberries, followed by delicious flavors of raspberries and black cherries backed with mild oak. (30,000 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Gifford Hirlinger 2006 Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $22

The Berghan family planted its estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley in 2001, followed by launching this winery, which takes its name from ancestors who preceded them to the valley on wagon trains some 150 years ago. This rich, ripe red opens with alluring aromas of dark fruit, coffee, black licorice and chocolate, followed by flavors of red cherries, red plums, raspberries, blackberries and vanilla with a hint of coconut on the finish. (213 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Hogue Cellars 2006 Reserve Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $30

Co Dinn is the director of winemaking for this Yakima Valley giant, which began operation in the early 1980s. He headed to the warm Wahluke Slope for the grapes he used for this reserve-level Merlot. It opens with aromas of leather, cedar and chocolate, followed by flavors of dark cherries, red plums and raspberry jam. It is a big wine with a flavorful mouth feel and bold structure. (2,094 cases, 15.4% alc.)

Spring Valley Vineyard 2007 Mule Skinner Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $45

All wines from this winery in the eastern Walla Walla Valley are named to honor members of the Corkrum family who worked this land. The Mule Skinner is a tribute to Frederick Corkrum, who cared for the mules used to farm the land prior to the arrival of tractors. The wine opens with classic aromas of pomegranates, cranberries, cherries and spices, followed by rich flavors of ripe cherries, chocolate and hints of oak. It's a bold wine with lively tannins and should age well for another half-decade. (195 cases, 15.1% alc.)

Terra Blanca Winery & Vineyard 2003 Reserve Estate Merlot, Red Mountain, $35

Owner/winemaker Keith Pilgrim has created a gorgeous winery in a setting that is unparalleled in the Columbia Valley. His Italian-influenced building sits atop Red Mountain and provides commanding views of the Yakima Valley. This wine is from a warm vintage and reveals aromas of cherries, raspberries, oak and spices, followed by ripe, smooth flavors of red and black fruits backed with smooth tannins for a memorable finish. (491 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Zimri Cellars 2008 Merlot, Umpqua Valley, $30

Jason Bull first gained our attention when he was winemaker of Laurel Ridge Winery in the northern Willamette Valley, then when he turned around the program at David Hill Winery. This is his own label, which he crafts at David Hill. The grapes for this Merlot come from Wild Rose Vineyard in Southern Oregon, and this wine provides aromas of French vanilla, blackberry jam and red currants, followed by accessible flavors of Bing cherries and red plums. It's a plush, gentle, tasty wine. (140 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Heaven's Cave Cellars 2007 Destination Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, $32

Owner Hope Moore created this winery in Prosser, Wash., for the express purpose of giving away the proceeds to Make the Dash Count, a foundation that helps at-risk youth. The grapes come from Destiny Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. It offers aromas of bright cherries, watermelon and cedar, followed by flavors of ripe strawberries and dark berries. (100 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Liberty Lake Wine Cellars 2006 Merlot, Red Mountain, $22

This tiny (500-case) winery near Spokane that brings in grapes from Red Mountain and the Walla Walla Valley. This wine, aged for two years in American oak, reveals aromas of black cherries, boysenberries and tarragon. The palate shows off flavors of black cherries, raspberries and cherries with sturdy tannins and a pretty mouth feel. (72 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Reustle - Prayer Rock Vineyards 2007 Maranatha Bloc Merlot, Umpqua Valley, $26

Our 2009 Oregon Winery to Watch continues to impress us with each new release. This Merlot from its estate vineyard in Southern Oregon comes from a steep slope that offers low yields. The result is a concentrated and focused wine that offers aromas of cherries, spices and oak and flavors of rich cherries and raspberries. The acidity and tannins are beautifully balanced with the fruit for a delicious and stylish wine. (79 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2007 Oldfield Series Merlot (Oct. 10 release), Okanagan Valley, $28

California escapee Sandra Oldfield joined this dynamic Oliver, B.C., winery in its infancy, joining husband Kenn here in 1995. A big part of the focus has been Merlot, and this tier contains Oldfield's signature wines. This wine, set for release in October, is still developing in the bottle, though it's showing tremendous potential. It opens with aromas of cedar, pie cherries and Baker's chocolate, followed by beautiful flavors of blackberries, black cherries and blueberries. Assertive early tannins give way to a plush midpalate and chocolate overtones on the finish. (1,543 cases, 15% alc.)

Waterbrook Winery 2007 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $22

This longtime Walla Walla Valley winery, now owned by Precept Brands, has a beautiful new facility on the highway heading into town. This Merlot uses grapes from no fewer than seven vineyards scattered throughout the Columbia Valley. The result is a complex wine with aromas of vanilla, cherry and oak, followed by smooth, mellow flavors of cranberries, cherries and raspberries. It's beautifully balanced and should only get better with a few years in the cellar. (3,500 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Cold Creek Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley, $28

Considered by many the crown jewel of Ste. Michelle's vineyards, this ever-expanding operation north of the Yakima Valley was selected by the legendary Walter Clore for Ste. Michelle in the early 1970s. This vineyard-designated Merlot opens with light aromas of oak, chocolate and cherries, followed by ripe flavors of juicy cherries, black currants and chocolate. Tannins are sturdy without being aggressive, expertly backing up all the plush fruit. (1,700 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Hogue Cellars 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $10

Hogue was one of the first large-production wineries in North America to begin large-scale use of screwcaps. Five years into the project, the wines continue to shine. This delicious and nicely priced Merlot opens with aromas of cranberries, cherries and red plums, followed by smooth flavors of red-toned fruit backed with supple tannins. It's built - and priced - for everyday enjoyment. (31,606 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Silkscarf Winery 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $28

From the central Okanagan Valley town of Summerland comes this wine using estate grapes. It reveals aromas of strawberries, cinnamon, cherries and dried herbs, followed by ripe red fruit and mild tannins. Bright acidity makes this a sturdy wine while allowing the fruit to shine, and a kiss of oak offers another layer of complexity. (150 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Zerba Cellars 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $40

This past Oregon Winery to Watch used grapes from Willard Vineyard in the Yakima Valley and Winesap and Kelly vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley to craft this fruit-driven wine. It opens with aromas of blueberries and sweet herbs, followed by ripe flavors of black cherries, huckleberries and chocolate. Rich tannins provide plenty of structure. (754 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Northstar Winery 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $40

David "Merf" Merfeld is winemaker for this Walla Walla winery dedicated to making great Merlot. This wine uses grapes from at least 14 vineyards and includes 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It reveals aromas of blackberries, boysenberries, tobacco leaf and slate, followed by mouth-filling flavors of red and black fruits. It's sturdy but not over the top, and the oak is expertly handled. (10,000 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Recommended

E.B. Foote Winery 2006 Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $18

This Burien, Wash., winery headed to one of the warmest areas of the state for this wine's grapes. It reveals aromas of blueberries, black currants and chocolate, followed by flavors of blackberries, raspberries and bittersweet chocolate. (164 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Columbia Winery 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $16

Winemaker Kerry Norton crafted a luscious and affordable Merlot that offers aromas of dark fruit and chocolate, as well as rich blackberries and black cherries. Rich tannins provide breadth and depth. (12,000 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Olsen Estates 2007 Estate Merlot, Yakima Valley, $29

This up-and-coming Prosser, Wash., winery has been farming in the Yakima Valley for more than a century and opened its winery at the Vintners Village in the past three years. This Merlot shows off aromas and flavors of red plums, ripe cherries and elegant oak. (200 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Olsen Hills 2007 Estate Merlot, Yakima Valley, $19

Ste. Michelle alum Kyle Johnson crafts the wine for this Prosser, Wash., producer. This Merlot provides aromas and flavors of dark-toned berries, toffee, kitchen spices and mild oak. (400 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Saviah Cellars 2007 The Jack, Columbia Valley, $18

This wine from Walla Walla, Wash., is mostly Merlot (86%) with a bit of Cab, Cab Franc, Syrah and Petit Verdot blended in. It provides aromas and flavors of cranberries, black olives, plums and blackberries. (4,777 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Cave B Estate Winery 2005 Cave B Vineyards Merlot, Columbia Valley, $22

The reincarnation of Champs de Brionne near the tastefully named town of George, Wash., uses its estate fruit from vineyards overlooking the Columbia River. This Merlot offers aromas and flavors of plums, black olives and black licorice with an intriguing line of minerality throughout. (475 cases, 14% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, $24

Ste. Michelle's vineyard in the southern Horse Heaven Hills is now more than 15 years old and is one of the winery's prime sources of grapes. This Merlot offers aromas and flavors of raspberries, blueberries, black cherries, chocolate and mint. It's a nicely complex wine. (11,500 cases, 14.7% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2007 Reserve Merlot, Rogue Valley, $30

This winery near Forest Grove, Ore., west of Portland reaches deep into Southern Oregon for the grapes in this wine. The result reveals aromas and flavors of spicy red plums, berries and chocolate. (302 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2007 Shameless Hussy Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $20

Nobody will accuse Judy and Don Phelps of not having a sense of humor. Judy, the winemaker in this family collaboration on the north shore of Lake Chelan, has crafted a Merlot with aromas of of black cherries and flavors of pomegranates, raspberries and orange oil. (175 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Kestrel Vintners 2006 Merlot, Yakima Valley, $22

Winemaker Flint Nelson honed his craft while working with Brian Carter at Apex Cellars and has headed up this Prosser, Wash., winery for several years. This Merlot shows off aromas and flavors of cranberries, raspberries, cherries and a hint of oak. (1,908 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2008 Pheasant Vineyards Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $16

Owner/winemaker Mike Conway started this Spokane winery nearly 30 years ago and always managed to balance quality and value. This Merlot from a warm site offers aromas of mature oak, chocolate and cherries, followed by flavors of strawberries and blackberries. (842 cases, 12.5% alc.)

Page Cellars 2007 The Norseman, Red Mountain, $25

This Woodinville, Wash., winery uses grapes from warm Red Mountain then aged it in 100% French oak to craft a wine with aromas of blueberries and pomegranates and flavors of black cherries and mint chocolate. (260 cases, 14.4% alc.)

8th Generation Vineyard 2008 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $22

Bernd Shales' family began making wine in 1757, and he emigrated to British Columbia in 2003 then launched this winery in 2007. This wine from the southern Okanagan Valley provides aromas and flavors of red cherries with a plush midpalate and beautiful length. (335 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Barnard Griffin Winery 2006 Ciel du Cheval Merlot, Red Mountain, $35

Winemaker Rob Griffin headed just down the road to Red Mountain and one of Washington's finest vineyards for this Merlot, which offers aromas and flavors of black cherries and plums backed with rich and rewarding tannins. (204 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Henry Estate 2007 Merlot, Umpqua Valley, $20

This Southern Oregon pioneer in winemaking and viticulture crafts a wide variety of wines, and this Merlot offers aromas and flavors of bright cherries, cranberries and pomegranates, all backed with bright, food-friendly acidity. (400 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Snake River Winery 2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Merlot, Idaho, $14

Scott DeSeelhorst owns one of the prettiest spots in the Snake River Valley, a bowl-shaped vineyard called Arena Valley. This Merlot from that estate fruit provides aromas and flavors of cedar, cherries and red currants, all backed with solid tannins. (560 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $19

Sandra Oldfield's main-line Merlot is a delicious and affordable red from southern Okanagan Valley fruit. It is elegant from the start with aromas and flavors of cranberries and raspberries. Pair this with flank steak. (9,494 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Troon Vineyard 2006 Merlot, Applegate Valley, $24

This longtime Southern Oregon winery uses grapes from its Elain's Vineyard in the fascinating Applegate Valley. The result is a wine that shows off aromas of raspberries, cherries, blueberries and chocolate. (320 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Arcane Cellars 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $36

This Willamette Valley winery crossed Oregon to procure these grapes from what is arguably the finest vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of cinnamon, strawberries, pie cherries, alder smoke and something that reminded us of fresh brownies. (225 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Buried Cane 2008 Merlot, Washington, $13

This value label associated with the family that owns Cadaretta in Walla Walla is crafting a number of award-winning wines. This affordable Merlot offers aromas and flavors of raspberries and pie cherries with mild tannins. (2,957 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Goose Ridge Vineyards 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $27

One of the largest wine grape vineyards in the Northwest at about 1,400 acres, Goose Ridge dominates a hill opposite Red Mountain. This beguiling Merlot provides aromas and flavors of boysenberries, cedar, cherries and black currants. (800 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Northstar Winery 2006 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $50

This Merlot includes 17% Cab and 5% Cab Franc in the blend of from four vineyards. The resulting wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of cherries, cedar and chocolate. It's showing a fair bit of oak at this point, but that should quiet down with a bit of time in the cellar. (2,500 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Pedestal 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $50

This wine is part of the Long Shadows project and was crafted by Bordeaux's Michel Rolland. This includes Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Cabernet Franc (7%) and Petit Verdot (3%). The wine shows off aromas and flavors of boysenberries and blackberries with tannins that build through the lengthy finish. (1,877 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Pepper Bridge Winery 2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $50

Made by one of the most important players in the Walla Walla Valley, this wine is still rather youthful and tightly wound. At the moment, it's revealing aromas and flavors of cinnamon, vanilla and ripe cherries, all backed with assertive tannins and ample acidity. (1,554 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Stag's Hollow Winery and Vineyard 2007 Renaissance Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $30

This wine from estate fruit near Okanagan Falls, B.C., reveals aromas and flavors of strawberries, cinnamon and light oak. It's backed with mild tannins and bright, food-worthy acidity. (125 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Whidbey Island Winery 2005 Merlot, Yakima Valley, $15

Greg Osenbach used grapes from venerable Crawford Vineyard near Prosser for this fruit-driven and elegant Merlot. It opens with aromas of lilacs and cedar, followed by flavors of boysenberries, dark cherries and raspberries. (323 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Blasted Church Vineyards 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $26

This wine from three vineyards in the southern Okanagan Valley is loaded with fruit and complexity, showing off aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries, red plums, mint and strawberries. (1,480 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Forgeron Cellars 2004 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot, Red Mountain, $46

Longtime Washington winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla gathered in grapes from one of Washington's finest vineyards. This wine provides aromas and flavors of cedar, cherries and raspberries. (176 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2006 SunRock Vineyard Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $30

Jackson-Triggs, one of British Columbia's largest and finest producers, has crafted this vineyard-designated Merlot that offers aromas and flavors of red currants, peppermint and raspberries. It's a fairly juicy wine with mild tannins and plenty of acidity. (500 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Kiona Vineyards Winery 2001 Nice Legs Merlot, Washington, $20

This wine from a Red Mountain pioneer was amid the oldest wines in our competition, yet it really isn't showing its age yet, providing aromas and flavors of lilacs, black cherries and sweet tannins. (1,300 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Koenig Vineyards 2007 Estate Vineyard Merlot, Snake River Valley, $20

Winemaker Greg Koenig is a busy guy, crafting wines for a handful of different labels. This wine from estate fruit reveals aromas and flavors of cherries, raspberries and sweet herbs. (225 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Larch Hills Winery 2008 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $17

This winery in the northern reaches of the Okanagan Valley specializes in cool-climate viticulture. This Merlot is smooth with dark fruit and chocolate flavors while showing lusciousness on the midpalate and beautiful depth. (400 cases, 12.8% alc.)

Skylite Cellars 2005 Skylite Vineyard Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $26

This Merlot is the first estate bottling for this Walla Walla Valley winery, and it's a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of blackberries, black tea, black olives and black cherries. (127 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Springhouse Cellar 2008 Poetry in Merlotion, Columbia Valley, $24

This wine certainly gets our award for the cleverest name, and it's a delicious Merlot, as well, providing aromas and flavors of red cherries, raspberries and leather. (133 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Wedge Mountain Winery 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $20

Winemaker Charlie McKee used grapes from HRP Vineyard near Benton City, Wash., for this Merlot, which shows off aromas and flavors of black cherries, sweet spices and smooth tannins. (107 cases, 14% alc.)

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2007 Reserve Merlot, Snake River Valley, $19

Greg Koenig crafts the wines for this Eagle, Idaho, winery, which used grapes from Arena Valley Vineyard for this bottling. It shows off aromas and flavors of ripe plums, blackberries and bittersweet chocolate. (444 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Ethos Merlot, Columbia Valley, $31

Most of the fruit for this reserve-level Merlot came from the Cold Creek and Canoe Ridge estate vineyards. It provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, tar and luscious chocolate. (2,300 cases, 14.3% alc.)

CE Vineyards 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $16

Chelan Estate Winery uses this label for wines with grapes from outside the new Lake Chelan AVA, and this wine contains fruit from Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Columbia Valley's Frenchman Hills. It is a delicious Merlot with aromas and flavors of chocolate, coffee and ripe dark berries. (265 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Cougar Crest Estate Winery 2006 Estate Grown Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $35

This Merlot from the Cougar Hills Vineyard in Walla Walla unveils aroma and flavors of black cherries, black olives and moderate oak. It's a delicious wine from one of the valley's finest producers. (814 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2008 Dry Rock Vineyards Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $15

Walter Gehringer received a classical German winemaking education yet also branches out into non-Germanic varieties. This wine from estate fruit offers aromas and flavors of lavender, oregano, mint and red currants. (1,600 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Grande Ronde Cellars 2003 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $30

This Spokane winery often features grapes from this famed Walla Walla vineyard just south of the state border. This particular Merlot, from a warm vintage, reveals aromas and flavors of pie cherries, spicy oak and ripe berries, all backed with moderate tannins. (300 cases, 12% alc.)

Hester Creek Estate Winery 2006 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $26

Just south of the town of Oliver, B.C., this longtime winery is producing some superb red wines. This reserve-level Merlot by winemaker Robert Summers provides aromas and flavors of ripe red cherries, kitchen spices and just a hint of oak. (850 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Hyatt Vineyards 2006 Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills, $10

Longtime Yakima Valley winery Hyatt Vineyards has long specialized in Merlot. This wine shows off aromas and flavors of chocolate milk, cordial cherries and even a hint of tomato paste. It's a delicious wine to enjoy any night of the week. (2,547 cases, 13.9% alc.)

L'Ecole No. 41 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $30

Winemaker Marty Clubb blended Cabernet Franc (11%), Petit Verdot (6%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) for this luscious Merlot with aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries and ripe raspberries. (5,609 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Nelms Road 2007 Merlot, Washington, $20

Woodward Canyon Winery has been extremely successful with this second label, which uses wine that doesn't quite make the cut for Rick Small's flagship winery in Lowden, Wash. This luscious Merlot provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, ripe raspberries and even rich, ripe blackberries along with mild oak and bright acidity. (2,679 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Otis Kenyon Wine 2006 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $30

This small producer in Walla Walla has been on fire since it launched a few years ago. This Merlot offers aromas and flavors of red cherries, raspberries, sweet spices and vanilla. (385 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2007 Naked Merlot, Columbia Valley, $14

Winemaker Joy Andersen uses organically grown grapes for her "Naked" series of wines. This affordable red shows off aromas and flavors of red cherries and pomegranates, all backed with plush tannins. (4,200 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2006 Oldfield Series Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $28

Tinhorn Creek set the bar for British Columbia wineries when it opened in the mid-'90s and continues to lead the way in quality and service. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of root beer, cola and bright cherries. (1,551 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Forgeron Cellars 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $27

This downtown Walla Walla winery uses grapes from no fewer than seven vineyards to craft this tasty Merlot. It offers aromas and flavors of vanilla, black cherries and blackberries with modest tannins. (400 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Claar Cellars 2006 White Bluffs Merlot, Columbia Valley, $19

Using estate fruit from its White Bluffs Vineyard overlooking the Columbia River, this winery with a tasting room in the Yakima Valley has crafted a Merlot with aromas and flavors of milk chocolate, Bing cherries and vanilla. (249 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Le Vieux Pin 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $38

Before moving to this winery in Oliver, B.C., winemaker James Cambridge produced wines for the eclectic Summerhill Pyramid Winery in Kelowna. This Merlot from low-tonnage fruit offers aromas and flavors of red and black cherries backed with plush tannins. (583 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Road 13 Vineyards 2007 Merlot, British Columbia, $24

This is a blend of Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys in British Columbia. It is a big wine with aromas and flavors of leather, oak and black cherries. (1,820 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Two Mountain Winery 2006 Merlot, Yakima Valley, $22

Using grapes from its estate Copeland Vineyard, this Zillah, Wash., winery has crafted a Merlot with aromas and flavors of cranberries, pomegranates, raspberries and spicy oak. (378 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Caterina Winery 2001 Willard Family Vineyard Merlot, Yakima Valley, $20

This was among the oldest entries in this competition, and this longtime Spokane winery (under new ownership) has put together a Merlot that is showing its age in an elegant way with aromas and flavors of dried cherries and strawberries and elegant oak spice. (480 cases, 13.5% alc.)

DiStefano Winery 2005 Domenica, Columbia Valley, $28

Winemaker Hillary Sjolund has crafted a Bordeaux-style blend that focuses on Merlot in an Old World style. It reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, cedar and spice, backed with ample acidity and moderate tannins. (585 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Abacela Winery 2007 Merlot, Southern Oregon, $20

This is a mainstream wine for one of Oregon's most innovative producers. It opens with aromas of red cherries and pomegranates and shows off flavors of ripe Bing cherries and hints of vanilla. (862 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Del Rio Vineyards 2007 Merlot, Rogue Valley, $28

Arguably Southern Oregon's most famous vineyard has been bottling its own wine for the past few vintages. This offers aromas of moist earth and ripe cherries followed by flavors of sweet herbs, raspberries and red currants. (151 cases, 14% alc.)

Andy Perdue is editor of Wine Press Northwest.

• Comments
• Add Comment
• Disclaimer