Sunday, Mar. 07, 2010

Recent Releases: Red wines

By Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest

Red wine reviews from the Spring 2010 Recent Releases section of Wine Press Northwest.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Alderdale Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $35

Excellent. Jarrod Boyle's estate vineyard also produced the Cabernet Franc (13%) and Petit Verdot (6%) that spent 22 months in French oak. It offers aromas of brown sugar, coffee, blackberry, raspberry and cedar. Spicy plums and blackberries with the seed breeze in sweetly on the palate, finished by hints of mocha and Arabic coffee.

Amavi Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Outstanding. Those who swooped in for "Leonetti Weekend" last year arrived just in time for Jean-Francois Pellet's release of his underrated label off Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards. It's loaded with blackberry, black currant, rose hips and Graham cracker aromas. Collectors will especially appreciate the bold flavors of blackberry, cassis and Baker's chocolate.

Barnard Griffin 2005 Sagemoor Vineyard Partners Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $60

Outstanding. Rob Griffin's continued success with his consumer-minded Tulip label allows him projects such as this: a collaboration with this famed vineyard. This wine had a decadent life of 30 months in barrel, which ushers in aromas of black cherry, mint chocolate chip ice cream, violets and shoe cream. Smooth and seamless only begin to describe what awaits on the palate with boysenberry, cranberry and cherry flavors. There's blackberry, mocha and tobacco in the midpalate, which stretches into a finish of peppermint green tea.

Caterina Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $20

Recommended. Strawberry fruit leather, canned pie cherries, bramble berries, Italian seasoning and menthol tones are found within a structure of sturdy tannins and food-friendly tartness.

Caterina Winery 2001 Willard Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $20

Recommended. Spokane winemaking veteran Don Townshend recently purchased this historic downtown winery, and he came across these older wines that show very little age but plenty of power and true Cab character. There's a theme of black cherries, hibiscus, violets, green bean and cigar tobacco with a fascinating finish of Heath Bar ice cream.

CE Vineyards 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $20

Outstanding. When the Lake Chelan AVA was created, Chelan Estate was required by law to create a second label if it wanted to continue making wines from grapes outside the appellation. This superbly balanced Cab, from a renowned site in the Frenchman Hills near Royal City, Wash., makes the label hassle worth it. There's a fair bit of oak behind the bright cherries and raspberries with cinnamon, coffee, tobacco and licorice aromas. Richness comes on the complex approach of black cherries and chocolate, focused by pleasing acidity and tannins nicely tucked in the background.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $28

Recommended. Inviting barrel notes of dark chocolate, Graham cracker crust and cedar shavings marry well with boysenberry, black cherries and marionberries. It's rewarding and rich on the entry with a sturdy profile of late tannins and lingering acidity.

Claar Cellars 2007 White Bluffs Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $19

Recommended. Here's a sturdy Cab that's built for the dining table, showing lots of dusty cherries, marionberry, vanilla bean, crushed leaf and green peppercorns.

Columbia Crest 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $27

Outstanding. Good luck on finding this wine after its "older brother" was voted No. 1 in the world by some other publication. In our minds, though, this vintage by Ray Einberger is showing even better. It's a full nose of voluptuous black cherries, dark plums, blackberries, pomegranate, vanilla, fresh-brewed mocha, cedar and cracked red peppercorns. Think of Chukar Cherries on the palate with blackberry jam, bright acidity, dark chocolate and noticeable yet managed frontal tannins.

Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $26

Excellent. The Wisconsin boys tap into their estate Sconni Block, as well as Birch Creek, Nostra Terra, Minnick Hills and Nicholas Cole for their "go-to" Cab. Wisconsin and French oak meld with maraschino cherry, coffee, chocolate, tobacco leaf, green pepper and cedar aromas. Rainier cherry and blueberry flavors include marvelous acidity with a bit of grip and a lingering finish of cracked green peppercorns.

Fraser Vineyard 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Snake River Valley, $28

Outstanding. One of the gems in the Idaho wine industry is Bill Fraser's boutique tasting room near the campus of Boise State University. The prize of your trip to it is this decadent drinking Cab from his small estate in Wilder. The nose is lively and fleshy with stewed cherries, dried strawberries, cedar and fresh-baked chocolate brownies. And the drink is hedonistic with blackened Bing cherries, president plums, chocolate and molasses. Chalky tannins arrive late, but they yield to a finish of a mulled cinnamon stick.

Gifford Hirlinger 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Excellent. Mike Berghan grows it and makes it at this Walla Walla boutique operation. Inviting aromas include black cherry, Jolly Rancher strawberry candy, rhubarb, coffee, cedar, mink oil and a slice of bell pepper. On the palate, it's a fresh-baked and still-bubbling cherry pie, backed by pomegranate tartness and integrated tannins. A bittersweet chocolate component continues to deliver through the pleasing finish.

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2007 Laid Back Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $29

Excellent. Riverbend Vineyard near Mattawa, Wash., is a primary source for winemaker Judy Phelps. And for good reason. Aromas of black cherries, cola, sarsaparilla, allspice and chocolate beckon you, followed by a quaffable drink of juicy cherries, chocolate and pomegranate. There's a sturdiness to the structure, so you can lay it down, or you can bask right now in the afterglow.

Hester Creek Estate Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $45 CDN

Excellent. A tremendous amount of investment in the vineyards, the property and the winery also shows in the wines. This vintage was Robert Summers' first for Hester Creek, and it exudes an Old World influence starting with notes of cherries, leather, smoky plums, cedar, menthol and bell pepper. Some leafiness on the entry joins the structure of zesty acidity and maturing tannins to make for broad food applications. The finish of hazelnut coffee adds to the complexity.

Hogue Cellars 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $30

Recommended. This longtime Prosser, Wash., winery builds its top tier for the long haul, and here's classic notes of black cherry, cassis, cedar, cinnamon and shaved cedar. Chocolaty and youthful tannins with good acidity bode well for the future.

Liberty Lake Wine Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $25

Recommended. This boutique winery from Washington's Spokane Valley offers up a tasty and straightforward Cab loaded with blueberries, plums and cherries. Ample acidity and tannins of green tea strike balance, and there's a finish of milk chocolate and more cherries.

Lopez Island Vineyards 2006 Winemaker's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $35

Excellent. End of the Road Vineyard allowed Brent Charnley to create an inviting and elegant Cab. It opens with notes of blueberry, pomegranate, cherry, Whopper malted milk balls, spearmint, brown sugar and lots of cedar. Sweet blueberries bounce across the silky palate, followed by more cherries, chocolate and cedar. A pinch of green peppercorns in the finish would suggest a pairing of pepper steak.

Madsen Family Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $30

Recommended. Here marks the first sizable vintage for this couple in Lacey, Wash., and the primary fruit source for this release - Destiny Ridge Vineyard - shows they mean business. A dense profile of black cherries, prunes, allspice, cigar box, green tea and eucalyptus makes for a mouth-filling wine, but the finish of youthful tannins and Baker's chocolate should reward patience.

Pepper Bridge Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $55

Recommended. A blend of estate fruit from Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards provides aromatics of blackberry, boysenberry, cherry cola, coffee and toffee. Blackberry and black currant flavors flow with richness into bold tannins. Some history in the cellar will provide a true reward.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2006 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $35

Excellent. One of Larry Lehmbecker's secret weapons for his string of successful reds is the Newhouse family's Upland Vineyards on Snipes Mountain. Bing cherry, blackberry, cola and citrus aromas are joined by hints of crushed walnut, Spanish almonds, Ponderosa pine and minerality. Think of chocolate-covered cherries on the palate, with plums and a thin slice of fruit cake. The tannins are substantial but not taxing.

Pinot Noir

Abiqua Wind Vineyard 2008 Isaac's Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $28

Recommended. High-toned red fruit such as cranberry and Montmorency cherry are joined by hints of cedar and spruce, and the easy-to-approach structure finishes with a slice of watermelon.

Apolloni Vineyards 2007 Ruby Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $32

Recommended. Taken from Pommard clones at 21 brix, it exudes aromas of smoky cherries, forest floor and cedar fronds. The lively palate is brimming with strawberries and pie cherries, supported by lots of acidity and late-arriving tannins.

Cooper Mountain Vineyards 2008 Life Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $28

Recommended. Biodynamic practices and wines without sulfites added are the focus at this estate winery in Beaverton, Ore. And there's a homemade approach to this wine as it comes across as slices of boysenberry pie and cherry pie from the start to the lip-smacking finish. President plums, cassis syrup and some smokiness add to the rich midpalate.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2007 Barrel Select Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $28

Recommended. Notes of Burgundy appear in the nose with watermelon, smoked cherries, white strawberries, alfalfa and green peppercorns. There's more ripe fruit on the palate, guided by Langer's Black Cherry juice and more watermelon. Tannins arrive late, giving way to a finish of cherry skin.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $20

Excellent. Jason Bull offers the sense of a trip to a U-pick berry farm in Marion County with this lower-priced Pinot Noir. Aromas of dark strawberry are joined by sweet raspberries, cranberry, candied apple and forest floor. Raspberries and marionberries lead a very flavorful profile with pleasing body. Hints of apricot, barbecue sauce and smoke conjure up a pairing with alder-smoked salmon.

Duck Pond Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $20

Outstanding. Pleasing as punch might best describe the style of this bottling by one of Oregon's largest producers. The Fries family loaded it up with sweet berries and cherry aromas while including apricot, peach, cinnamon, Graham cracker and some vanilla notes. They show in full force on the palate in a fruit-forward, light and juicy style that includes cherry cola and racy acidity to balance the perception of sweetness.

Erath Winery 2006 Niederberger Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $50

Recommended. Fresh cranberry, raspberry and blackberry aromas include pie cherries, warm oak and note of prune Danish. There's more berries and plums on the palate with a vanilla cream midpalate and pie cherry finish. Available only at the winery.

Erath Winery 2006 Tuenge Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, $50

Excellent. Gary Horner made this so nicely that it's worth knowing how to pronounce the name of this vineyard (tongue-GEE) living in Laurelwood soil. Aromas of cherry, cranberry, cola, forest floor, vanilla bean and cream soda set up the mouth for an easy approach. In the flavors are Bing cherries and raspberries. Hints of cranberry acidity push the subtle tannins off into the background, where there's a finish of Cinnamon Dolce Latte. You'll have to go to the winery for this production.

Henry Estate 2004 Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley, $30

Excellent. The Henrys gave this three years in bottle before releasing in 2009. That was time well-spent. Sweet strawberry, cherries, white chocolate and charred oak aromas are joined by a flare of citrus. Black cherries, cranberries and plum flavors make for a juicy structure, while celery leaf and good grip from tannin firms up the finish.

Kathken Vineyards 2008 Signature Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $27

Recommended. Restrained oak allows for black cherry, strawberry, boysenberry, Dr Pepper and anise aromas to fully develop. Lots of raspberry and boysenberry hit the palate early, chased by nice notes of fennel, anise and horehound. Those spices, that pie cherry acidity and late-arriving tannins set the table for a bird hunter's quarry.

King Estate 2008 Signature Collection Pinot Noir, Oregon, $27

Recommended. Pomegranate, cranberry and cherry candy notes include hints of woodruff and drip coffee. Inside, it's bright acidity will match it marvelously with Copper River salmon or a thick slice of rare roast beef.

King Estate 2008 Acrobat Pinot Noir, Oregon, $20

Excellent. Not many Pinot Noirs from Oregon can be found around $20, but thankfully there's nice distribution of this across the country. Jeff Kandarian and his crew leaned on the estate Domaine block to produce a youthful nose of Hawaiian Punch, blueberries, cherries and cedar. The fruit punch style follows through with a light and juicy structure that's low in alcohol and finished with Bing cherries and pink peppercorns.

Love & Squalor 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $24

Recommended. This blend of Temperance Hill and Willakia vineyards starts out as a bit of a wallflower with shy aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, light cedar and smoky green peppercorns. The juices get flowing in the mouth with sweet cherries, penetrating acidity from pomegranate and a drop of Liquid Smoke in the sendoff.

Martin-Scott Winery 2007 Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, $22

Recommended. A small and ripe lot from this East Wenatchee, Wash., winery provides tones of cherries, rose petals and chocolate inside an easy drink that features bracing acidity rather than tannin.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2008 Five Vineyards Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN

Recommended. John Simes' crew sources from five areas of the valley for this lighter-structured and fruit-forward drink. It zeroes in on red tones akin to Rainier cherry, raspberry, cranberry and fresh president plums, accented by smokiness and pink peppercorns. Think of lamb or salmon grilled on the patio.

Okanogan Estate & Vineyards 2005 Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Washington, $23

Excellent. Savory aromas of cranberry, pie cherry, chocolate, smoked paprika and cedar evolve into an easy entry of cranberry and Bing cherry with good acidity. Chocolate, green peppercorn, some char and sturdy tannins bring to mind a pairing with a bowl of Hungarian stew.

Okanogan Estate & Vineyards 2006 Pinot Noir, Washington, $20

Excellent. Mike Buckmiller is the only winemaker this Oroville, Wash., winery has known, and he shows the potential for this variety in the Evergreen State. Aromas of subtle cherry, toasted oak, red bell pepper and vanilla translate into sweet pie cherry flavors. There's support from chocolate and nice tannins.

Primarius Winery 2007 Pinot Noir, Oregon, $20

Recommended. A growing number of Northwest wineries are trying to target the $15-$20 price point for Pinot Noir, and here's a tasty example. Hints of strawberry, plums, cherry Life Saver candy, Oreo cookie and caramel include a game of Russian Roulette with a Whitman's Sampler. The addition of Syrah (5%) shows on the lightly structured palate as plums join theme.

Redman Wines 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $30

Recommended. Tones of Van cherry, white strawberry, rose petal and French oak are carried along with delicious acidity and a candy cane finish. Enjoy this with pork, salmon or pasta in an Alfredo sauce.

Solena Estate 2007 Domaine Danielle Laurent Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, $45

Recommended. The Montalieus farmed this biodynamic estate block at 2.5 tons per acre, which yields notes of pomegranates, pie cherries, citrus, coffee and a whiff of cedar sweater box. Pie cherries, smoky oak and coffee return as flavors with nice acidity and assertive tannins.

Solena Estate 2007 Grand Cuvee Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $25

Recommended. Aromas of plum jam on toast, pomegranate, Montmorency cherry and smoky chocolate come through on the palate in a light structure with cranberry acidity.

Solena Estate 2007 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville, $45

Recommended. Laurent Montalieu purchased this 30-year-old vineyard in 2007 and made an approachable Pinot Noir right away. Blackberries, espresso, Triscuit cracker, cedar and five spice powder fill the nose. It's black cherries and Hershey Kisses on the palate with some white strawberry on the midpoint and good acidity in the finish of this easy drink. Enjoy with a bowl of savory meatball soup.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2007 Chehalem Mountains Select Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, $52

Excellent. Jacques Tardy tapped into Hawk's View, Alloro and Arbre Vert vineyards for a concoction that launches with smoky cherry, tobacco, cedar and pink peppercorn aromas. Smooth cherries with strawberries and watermelon come through to the palate. The spicy finish includes mace at the midpoint and a pinch of green peppercorns.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2007 Deux Verres Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $45

Recommended. A French reference to "two glasses," this product of seven vineyards contributes notes of cherry, crushed leaf, smoked cherry wood, sandalwood and green peppercorns.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2007 Eola-Amity Hills Select Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, $52

Excellent. Four sites - Hidden Rocks, Willakia, Temperance Hill and Vanjohn - gave Jacques Tardy the tools to skillfully deal with a difficult vintage. There's a plummy aspect to the aromas, along with Bing cherry, pomegranate, moist earth, cinnamon and a Swisher Sweet cigar. Flavors of pomegranate and cranberry rush in with dried strawberry and alfalfa in the midpalate.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2007 Hawks View Vineyard Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, $60

Recommended. This vineyard sells fruit to seven nearby wineries, and Torii Mor contracts for seven distinct blocks for this expressive release. Bing cherry, chocolate, cinnamon, toasted sesame and hints of barbecue pork fill the nose. Rainier cherries, cranberries and plums provide a springboard for the rewarding acidity and crunch of Wheat Thin cracker in the finish.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2007 Olalla Vineyard Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley, $60

Outstanding. Bob Reid's five-acre vineyard in the town of Winston, Ore., got its start in 1975, and this blend of Pommard and Dijon 115 clones ranks among Jacques Tardy's finest productions. The attraction for you begins with exceptional color in the glass. Then, the nose is filled with Rainier cherries, cranberry, rhubarb, cinnamon, nutmeg and forest floor. Incredible smoothness awaits with delicious cherries and cranberries, capped by a cup of Costa Rica coffee.

Winter's Hill Vineyard 2006 Cuvee du Vigneron Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $39

Excellent. It translates to "The Winegrowers Blend," and this production of Pommard clone berries lives up to its name. There's a warm greeting of oak to support the black cherry and baked plum aromas, spiced up by green peppercorn. Black cherries carry the easy-drinking theme in the mouth with a hint of earthiness, blueberry acidity and green tea tannin..

Winter's Hill Vineyard 2006 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $29

Excellent. Delphine Gladhart's estate fruit resides in an area that might be viewed as "The Beverly Hills" of the Dundee Hills, bordering Domaine Serene, Stoller Vineyards and Vista Hills. It's a cherry bomb that explodes in every direction, starting in the nose with raspberries, blueberries, citrus, mushrooms, black olives, black pepper and char. The drink is black cherries Cola, with plums and citrus tucked into the midpalate.

Winter's Hill Vineyard 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $50

Recommended. A blend of six barrels from separate blocks off the Gladhart estate, first planted in 1990, it's a fruit-forward drink with strawberry, black cherry and plums. There are supporting accents of chocolate shavings and coffee, with cinnamon and blueberry in the farewell.

Merlot

Mellisoni Vineyards 2006 Reserve Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $35

Recommended. The Mellisons debuted their wines to their Lake Chelan neighbors last fall. Plums and dusty Bing cherry aromas with balanced oak tones of vanilla and allspice fall into juicy flavors of more plums and boysenberries. Its lighter structure and dusty tannins will pair nicely with a plate of spaghetti and meatballs.

Syrah

Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2007 Syrah Cuvee, Umpqua Valley, $19

Recommended. This offering of high-toned red fruit of currants and cherries shows complexity of brown sugar, mint and green peppercorns. They provide a bold drink with late tannins and some fresh-brewed coffee in the farewell. Enjoy with braised ribs.

AlmaTerra 2006 Coeo Three Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley, $48

Excellent. Geologist Alan Busacca teamed with Yakima Valley winemaker Robert Smasne for a terroir-based project of Syrah. However this is an assemblage of all three vineyards in their program - Ciel du Cheval, Coyote Canyon and Minick. This bottle brings aromas of strawberry jam, root beer, rose petal and tobacco leaf. The drink is juicy with blueberry, marionberry, milk chocolate and hot buttered rum batter. Supple tannins and a spicy finish bring to mind a plate of sizzling pepper steak.

AlmaTerra 2006 Minick Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley, $50

Recommended. Plums, blackberries, coffee, cedar and orange peel are the hallmarks of this quaffable Syrah.

Amavi Cellars 2007 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Recommended. Plums, black cherry and Dr Pepper notes play out in rich forms on the chocolaty palate which is capped by toasted cigar leaf and assertive tannins.

Barrister Winery 2006 Bacchus Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley, $27

Excellent. These Spokane members of the state bar negotiate deals with some of the top vineyards in the state, including this venerable site north of Pasco, Wash. The nose will barrel you over with notes of bacon, chocolate, allspice, nutmeg, root beer and coffee with ample hints of boysenberry and orange peel. It's quite a reward on the approach with big flavors of blackberry and marionberry, framed by firm tannin and finished with a bite of a Kit Kat Bar.

Cadaretta 2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $35

Excellent. Four renowned vineyards - Pepper Bridge, Stone Tree, Wallula and Gamache - build the backbone of this brooding and hedonistic drink from this young Walla Walla winery as its own plantings develop. One gets a sense of density in the nose, which throws off blackberry, Bing cherry, bittersweet chocolate, cigar leaf and tar. Richness spills out in a theme of blackberry syrup over a chocolate brownie, yet there's enough balance for richly flavored meats.

Columbia Crest 2006 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $20

Excellent. Ray Einberger & Co., co-fermented this with Viognier (1.5%), and there's no hiding its Rhone style with enjoyable aromas of blueberry, Teisseire cassis syrup, cinnamon, coffee, black pepper and leather. The rich palate rewards with juicy blackberry and blueberry, cherry chocolate cake and hints of mince meat pie.

Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden 2006 Syrah, Applegate Valley, $32

Excellent. It bodes well for the future of this Southern Oregon certified biodynamic site that mere second-leaf fruit produced a wine of this quality. Tones of blackberry, Rainier cherry, loganberry and citrus - a hint at the Marsanne (5%) - are met by chocolate, cinnamon and oregano. The combination of cherry skin tannin and shiny acidity will serve this well with braised meats, but it's also worthy of slotting in the cellar.

Coyote Canyon Winery 2005 Estate Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills, $18

Recommended. Blackberry, boysenberry and lingonberry create the theme for this drink, which adds components of crushed leaf and saddle leather to a tannin structure of chocolate.

Crayelle Cellars 2007 Syrah, Washington, $26

Recommended. Craig Mitrakul made award-winning wines in the Columbia Basin for Ryan Patrick and St. Laurent. Here marks the debut of his project with his wife, Danielle. The equivalent of three barrels produced notes of blueberry, cherry cola, chocolate, chalkboard dust and bacon. The structure is framed by lip-smacking boysenberry acidity and a good grip from tannins.

Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Stained Tooth Syrah, Columbia Valley, $26

Outstanding. Good thing for co-winemaker Chad Johnson that his dad is a dentist, but it's great for us that these Wisconsin winos love Rhone. Dusty cherries, strawberry and raspberry aromas are joined by hints of chocolate, coffee, cedar and some orange peel, a sign of Viognier's influence (5%). Juicy cherries and boysenberries lead the attack with pomegranate acidity and late-arriving chocolaty tannins. Suggested fare includes rack of lamb rubbed with rosemary and thyme.

El Corazon Winery 2008 With Love Syrah, Columbia Valley, $23

Outstanding. There's boutique, and here's micro-boutique. Young winemaker Spencer Sievers made a mere 175 cases total for his second vintage for his Walla Walla start-up. Attention to detail shows from this bottling of fruit from Theide Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope as marionberry and lilac aromas get backing from barrel tones of Belgian chocolate, vanilla bean and cafe mocha froth. Flavors of rich black cherry and raspberry funnel into a bright and balanced structure finished by bittersweet chocolate.

Fujishin Family Cellars 2008 Syrah, Snake River Valley, $23

Outstanding. College of Idaho grad Martin Fujishin works for one of the Northwest's top vintners in Greg Koenig, and that association is apparent here. Fruit from nearby Bitner Vineyard and the parcel formerly known as Polo Cove made for aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, cherry candy, horehound and cedar. It's big and juicy on the palate with flavors akin to cherry chocolate cake, followed by racy raspberry to supply food-friendly acidity inside the pleasing lean structure. It's available at the Coyotes Tasting Room in downtown Caldwell.

Glen Fiona Winery 2006 Basket Press Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $30

Excellent. William Ammons, whose career spans the entire history of the winery, created a smooth drink of strawberry and black cherries. The influence of 30 months in barrel shows with notes of allspice, toffee, cinnamon and chocolate. A flourish of tannin at the finish bodes well for a crispy duck breast.

Glen Fiona Winery 2006 Puncheon Select Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $20

Excellent. The use of puncheons - more than twice the capacity of normal-sized barrels - shows a pleasant influence as behind the dried strawberry, plum and pie cherry aromas are hints of cigar leaf, Special K cereal and malted milk balls. It's a mouth-filling drink of deep black cherries, plums and warm coffee, finished with a pinch of green peppercorn.

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2007 Shameless Hussy Syrah, Columbia Valley, $20

Excellent. Sublime and enchanting aromas of cherries, Oreo cookies, Arabic coffee, fresh-cut pineapple, eucalyptus and pink peppercorns. They lead to the doorway of a juicy and voluptuous drink of cherries and blackberries with a silky finish.

H/H Estates 2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Reserve Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills, $28

Outstanding. Mike Andrews' top-tier program from his family's massive vineyard reveals aromas of raspberry, boysenberry, cherry, white chocolate, cola and mint leaf. Succulent blueberry and raspberry flavors make for a mouth-coating quaffer. A perception of sweetness in the midpalate gives way to tannin and more white chocolate on the back end.

Koenig Vineyards 2007 Three Vineyard Cuvee Syrah, Snake River Valley, $20

Outstanding. Greg Koenig's display of skill over his career allows him to cherry pick from vineyards such as Williamson, Hells Canyon and Bitner. Density begins in the nose and continues to give, starting with plums backed on parchment paper, bright cherries, crushed mint, tar and shoe polish. The massive structure opens with more plums and blackberries with the seed, yet there's finesse with chocolate, cherries and pleasing tannins.

Major Creek Cellars 2007 Syrah, Wahluke Slope, $19

Outstanding. The Boeing Wine Club continues to produce commercial winemakers, and this Syrah by Steve Mason must jet out of his winery in White Salmon, Wash. A production from the Milbrandts' Clifton Vineyard, it showcases aromas of blueberry, plums, coffee, chocolate, cedar and rose petal. It's easy on the approach with blueberry and boysenberry flavors. Cherry acidity and caramel give it extra lift on the palate, and chocolaty tannins firm it up.

Mellisoni Vineyards 2007 Syrah, Wahluke Slope, $30

Recommended. The Mellisons are new addition to the south shore of Lake Chelan, and here's a nice debut with a youthful drink of marionberry, blueberry and strawberry candy. The smooth background includes cherry cola and sun-dried tomato with a structure of nice acidity and milk chocolate tannin.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Reserve Shiraz, Okanagan Valley, $22 CDN

Recommended. Crushed cherries and plums are ensconced in pleasing oak spice aromas, followed by flavors of boysenberry and pomegranate amid subdued tannins.

Nuthatch Cellars 2007 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $24

Recommended. A blend of Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge stays in the state of Oregon, only it's crafted at this boutique winery in Corvallis. Huge are aromas of raspberry juice, joined by blackberry, Oreo cookie, cinnamon and a drop of steak juice. Raspberry returns on the palate, backed by some cassis and plum. There's Oreo again in the finish. Enjoyable acidity should serve this well with turkey.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2006 Oldfield Series Syrah, Okanagan Valley, $35 CDN

Recommended. American expatriate Sandra Oldfield streamlined her label, but the golden screwcap remains atop this rich drink of black cherries, strawberry cola, leather and cinnamon. Firm tannins and a finish of milk chocolate make this ideal for ribs braised in a mole sauce.

Trust Cellars 2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $28

Excellent. A skillful blend of primarily Yakima Valley fruit - Lewis and Portteus - casts off aromas of Hostess cherry pie, boysenberry, milk chocolate and green peppercorns. It becomes a drink of blackberry jam and plums, with red raspberry acidity and some milk chocolate tannin in the finish.

Trust Cellars 2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $28

Excellent. A skillful blend of primarily Yakima Valley fruit - Lewis and Portteus - casts off aromas of Hostess cherry pie, boysenberry, milk chocolate and green peppercorns. It becomes a drink of blackberry jam and plums, with red raspberry acidity and some milk chocolate tannin in the finish.

Trust Cellars 2007 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Outstanding. Steve Brooks is stringing together vintages of impressive Syrahs since his arrival to Walla Walla from Atlanta. There's opulence in the nose from Les Collines and Va Piano vineyards, a theme of deep blackberry, blueberry and plum with hints of eucalyptus and cedar. While there's a nice juicy approach to the palate from blueberries, there's an Old World tone in the structure with food-friendly acidity. The finish is akin to chocolate, black cherry skin and green tea.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2007 Barrel Select Syrah, Columbia Valley, $28

Recommended. Aromas of Bing cherry, fresh boysenberry, tar and drip coffee transcend into more cherries and blackberry jam flavors with a chocolaty mouth feel and cracked green peppercorns in the finish.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2007 Red Cafe Syrah, Columbia Valley, $20

Recommended. Larry Lehmbecker takes to blending Petite Sirah in his tributes to Rhone, and this features nearly 13% of it. There's a plumpness to the nose with boysenberry, macerated cranberries, milk chocolate, tar, cedar and coffee. On the entry is a stream of sweet raspberries and huckleberries, followed by chocolate-covered Graham cracker on the midpalate, then cedar and saddle leather in the finish.

Volcano Vineyards 2006 Fortmiller Vineyards Syrah, Southern Oregon, $40

Outstanding. The Radcliffs love this site near Talent, Ore., which at 2,000 feet, is one of the loftiest in the Northwest. Behind the blackberry and blueberry aromas are French oak influences from Belgian chocolate and hazelnut-flavored espresso. What follows is a easy entry of more black and blue fruits, a near absence of tannin, and a finish of tree-ripened Van cherries and chocolate.

Whitman Cellars 2006 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $30

Excellent. There's no lack of complexity from the blend of Seven Hills, Birch Creek, Spofford Station and Les Collines vineyards. The journey opens with a dense and dark snootful of licorice, mince meat, smoke and grilled bacon, filled in with plums, black cherries, blackberries, black olive and a Nilla Wafer dipped in coffee. Those almost Gothic tones tumble out on the palate with blackened plums, Craisins and black olive. Tannins arrive late, giving way to a lingering finish of rich cherries and bittersweet chocolate.

Cabernet Franc

Barrister Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $27

Outstanding. There is no arguing these two Spokane attorneys rank among the Northwest's supreme with this variety. They continue to hold up Chelle den Pleasant in Prosser, Wash., as the key, but Cabernet Sauvignon from Bacchus and Pepper Bridge vineyards annually add punch. It's plummy and chocolaty in the nose, spiced up by root beer and the variety's telltale leafy component. All those factors take their turn on the tongue, with blackberry, tar and molasses in the background. Ample acidity will lend this to sweet babyback ribs.

Hester Creek Estate Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $27 CDN

Recommended. Enchanting notes of Bing cherries, plums, cloves, allspice, minced meat and alder smoke are within a sturdy entry, bright acidity and an huge finish of vanilla bean.

Pend d'Oreille Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Washington, $21

Outstanding. For more than a decade, Stephen Meyer has been sourcing Columbia Valley fruit for his winery in Sandpoint, Idaho. Here, it is Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope that allowed for aromas of plums, blackberry, blueberry, cola, tar, chocolate and the variety's signature herbal notes, this time wintergreen and oregano. Silky smooth are the flavors of plums, blackberry and chocolate, all backed with a crunch of berry seed-type tannin.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN

Recommended. A wide ranging assortment of aromatics includes plums, orange peel, cloves, alfalfa, menthol, pencil lead and anchovy paste. Black cherry, menthol and anise persist on the palate with mouth-filling tannins that get whisked away by acidity. Enjoy with spaghetti and meatballs or Chicken Cacciatore.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2007 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $35

Excellent. Dusty cherry aromas include hints of vanilla bean, mocha and minerality. Ripe blackberries step upfront on the palate with black cherries and acidity that carries all the way through. Winemaking components of leather, vanilla and chocolate don't get in the way of the variety's food-friendly crushed herb characteristic.

Zinfandel/Primitivo

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2007 Reserve Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $38

Excellent. Head winemaker Michael Sebastini flexes his California roots with this fun and hedonistic drink out of Hood River, Ore. Youthful and mouthwatering aromas center on Van cherries, strawberry, President plums, blueberry and malted milk balls. It's a lighter structure than most Zins, flashing lots of blueberry and black cherries. Licorice, vanilla extract and green peppercorns build upon those catalog of flavors. It's found only online and at the winery.

Fiasco Winery 2007 Zinfandel, Applegate Valley, $50

Excellent. Hang glider/winemaker David Palmer earns lofty marks for a second straight vintage with this variety. Chukar Cherry, blueberry, cranberry, citrus, fresh-cut grass and black pepper aromas beckon. The drink showcases a juicy structure of strawberries and more cherries, with a creaminess in the midpalate. Tannins and cranberry acidity vie for attention through to the chocolaty finish.

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2007 Primitivo, Wahluke Slope, $32

Excellent. This lot off Northridge Vineyard near Mattawa, Wash., didn't come off until Oct. 26, which explains the huge ripeness presented to Judy Phelps. What came out of her Manson winery starts with aromas of strawberries, raspberries, cedar and pink peppercorns. There's a cherry candy component to the palate that includes blueberries, comes with a structure of acidity rather than tannin, then a finish of Craisins.

Tempranillo

Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2007 Tempranillo Cuvee, Southern Oregon, $20

Outstanding. Earl Jones' Fault Line Vineyards form the broad base of this, which is perhaps his smoothest young Temp to date. The nose is of Bing cherries, brown sugar, green peppercorns and Almond Joy. Cherries are joined by blueberries and blackberries on the easy entry to the mouth. Bold acidity and building tannins give way to a long and tasty finish of Cherries Garcia ice cream.

Davis Creek Cellars 2008 Two Vineyard Cuvee Tempranillo, Snake River Valley, $22

Excellent. Our 2010 Idaho Winery to Watch takes an even split from Wood River and Windy Ridge vineyards for a medium-bodied Temp that's loaded with Bing cherry, brown sugar, coffee, slate and tobacco aromas. Cherries, coffee and bittersweet chocolate flavors make for a structure showing a bit of opulence, framed by tannins that gather some might. A pinch of black pepper spices up the finish.

Nuthatch Cellars 2007 Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley, $25

Recommended. John Bacon and Jane Smith launched their boutique winery in Corvallis, Ore., after taking part in the 2002 and 2003 harvests at Abacela. The Tempranillo comes from McCorqudale Vineyard - a previous source for Abacela - and allows from aromas of blackberry, plums, cola, menthol and a chocolate brownie. It's a sturdy little drink with a nice entry of plums and canned cherries. Raspberries with a crunch of the seed describes both the acidity and the tannin structure.

Trio Vintners 2007 Tempranillo, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Excellent. This incubator project by three co-winemakers brought in Tempranillo from Les Collines, Carmenere (9%) from Ray Davis and Sangiovese (8%) from Dick Boushey, and the aromatics produced are loaded with spicy berries, Cherry Coke, orange peel, milk chocolate, white pepper, dill weed and fresh-cut cedar. Blackberries and coffee reign in the palate, with more citrus and persimmon across the midpalate. Cherry cough drop and cocoa powder finish it off.

Malbec

Davis Creek Cellars 2008 Pontin Vineyard Malbec, Yakima Valley, $22

Recommended. Idaho winemaker Gina Davis reaches across state lines for a drink heavily accented by raspberry and cherry juice with tones of Tang, tobacco leaf and wintergreen.

El Corazon Winery 2008 Super Nova Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills, $21

Excellent. Walla Walla native Spencer Sievers received inspiration while working at Reininger Winery, and he's proven to be a quick study with his own lots, including this one via Kolibri Vineyard. Big blueberry aromas are joined by violets and opulent oak hints of Reese's Pieces, cigar box and green peppercorns. Blueberry and boysenberry flavors provide a youthful smoothness, and there's remarkable weight, backed by cracked black pepper.

Martin-Scott Winery 2007 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $25

Outstanding. A gold medal from the San Francisco Chronicle hangs around the neck of this bottle by East Wenatchee winemaker Mike Scott. It carries a nice amount of oak in the aromas, backed by black cherries, plums, boysenberries, mocha and minerality. Blackberries join the black cherry components on the spicy palate, followed by a bag of Aussie black licorice. Acidity hangs out beyond the edge of chocolaty tannins.

Otis Kenyon Wines 2006 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $36

Outstanding. Walla Walla veteran Dave Stephenson poured this production off Phinney Hill into all new French oak for 18 months, and the results drive you back to the glass. Barrel notes of chocolate, cinnamon and cedar merely accent the fruit of boysenberry, black cherry and raspberry, both in the aromas and on the palate. The structure is vibrant with acidity, and the tannins are akin to a sliver of cherry skin.

Lopez Island Vineyards 2008 Malbec, Yakima Valley, $20

Recommended. Crawford Vineyard produced the fruit for this enjoyable drink of raspberries, canned black cherries, black olives, bell pepper and bittersweet chocolate.

Sleeping Dog Wines 2006 Malbec, Yakima Valley, $30

Recommended. Strawberry/rhubarb, pie cherries, cola and rose hip accents swirl within the offering of medium body by this boutique winery in Benton City, Wash.

Snake River Winery 2008 Malbec, Snake River Valley, $19

Recommended. Blueberry fruit leather, boysenberry, orange peel and Christmas wreath aromas transition to a well-done drink of juicy cherries and more boysenberry. It's a lighter-structured Malbec that's capped with tobacco and cracked green peppercorns.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2006 Barrel Select Malbec, Yakima Valley, $40

Excellent. Snipes Canyon Vineyard supplied just enough for Larry Lehmbecker to trickle out two barrels' worth of his lesser-known Bordeaux variety. Its expressive nose includes Smucker's raspberry jam, Chukar Cherry, Constant Comment tea, green willow bark and Graham cracker. Seductive may indeed best describe the presentation of jammy plums and boysenberry on the palate, with a return of chocolate, warm cherries and Graham cracker. Supple tannins and nice acidity make this difficult to tuck away for safe keeping.

Watermill Winery 2007 Estate Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Outstanding. Andrew Brown and our 2010 Oregon Winery to Watch don't disappoint with this production from two estate parcels - its namesake vineyard and McClellan. First comes opulent oak aromas of white chocolate, tobacco leaf and tar, but there's huge black fruit and a puff of chalkboard dust. Friggin' dynamite is the well-balanced drink of black-cap raspberry and black cherry. There's a stream of coffee all through the background, while the tannins are of blackberry seed. In the zesty finish comes vanilla bean and Baker's chocolate.

Other reds

Davis Creek Cellars 2008 Petite Sirah, Snake River Valley, $25

Recommended. Veteran grower Ron Bitner provided the building blocks for this young University of Idaho grad to construct a dense version of P.S. that's focused on plums, black cherries, boysenberry and black pepper. Food-friendly tartness, not tannin, defines this bottling.

Gifford Hirlinger 2007 Estate Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley, $26

Recommended. There's a wealth of richness in the aromas and body of this drink, featuring tones of blackberries, stewed plums and Boylan Cane Cola, a smooth structure and bittersweet chocolate tannins.

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2007 Shameless Hussy Barbera, Columbia Valley, $20

Excellent. Judy Phelps markets her young "Hussy" line at this price point, and she's establishing a reputation for quality with it, too. The Barbera hails from Atom Vineyard in the hills above her winery in Manson, Wash., and there's also influence (25%) from Primitivo from the Wahluke Slope. Black cherry and earthiness in the nose include barrel tones of chocolate chips. There's more smooth black cherry and earthiness on the palate, backed by plums, blueberry acidity and the return of chocolate in the farewell.

Martin-Scott Winery 2007 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $25

Excellent. Jones Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope produced aromas of black cherry, stewed plums, horehound, Graham cracker, malted milk balls and moist earth. There's marionberry jam on the entry, then more plums with coffee. The structure of bright acidity and heavy tannins does provide pleasure.

Pondera Winery 2007 Sangivoese, Columbia Valley, $28

Recommended. The influence of Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) and Merlot (8%) adds rather than detracts from this racy drink of marionberry and black cherries. Accents of minerality, fresh bell pepper, black pepper and bittersweet chocolate give this broad food applications.

Snake River Winery 2008 Arena Valley Vineyard Grenache, Idaho, $19

Excellent. This estate operation in the Snake River Valley loves to bottle varieties outside the mainstream, and here's another example of this region's potential with Rhone varieties. Cranberry, toasted peanut, tobacco and coffee ground aromas show off some earthy tones. Its food-friendly profile on the palate leads with boysenberry, cassis, Bing cherry and coffee. Enjoy with grilled salmon.

Snake River Winery 2007 Arena Valley Vineyard Touriga, Idaho, $17

Excellent. Scott DeSeelhorst achieves success with this Port variety that's rarely seen bottled on its own in the Northwest. Cassis, marionberry, stewed cherries, boysenberry, cedar and cola aromas funnel into a bright entry cranberry juice flavors. There's more cherry to back up this easy drink, along with marionberry, cinnamon and cherry leaf for complexity. Enjoy the finish of Luden's Cherry Cough Drops.

Trio Vintners 2007 Carmenere, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Outstanding. The late Stan Clarke got a charge out of taking his Walla Walla Community College students to Ray Davis Vineyard, and this wine would make him proud. There's a leading of Van cherries in the aromas, then comes a potpourri of herbs and roasted coffee beans. Lovely structure in the mouth is dominated by cordial cherries and blackberry. The tannins structure, tobacco and herbal components should combine for marrying with buffalo, venison or New York strip.

Red blends

Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Claret, Southern Oregon, $32

Excellent. While this Roseburg, Ore., winery is famous for its homage to Spain, they stay true to Bordeaux varieties also. Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (15%), Malbec (12%), Petit Verdot (6%) and Cabernet Franc went into French oak and emerged with aromas of Chukar Cherry, brown sugar, Ovaltine, vanilla bean and canned pinto beans. There's an easy and rich entry of more cherries and chocolate malt, backed by building acidity and sinewy tannins, then finished with coffee.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Quarry Butte Red, Horse Heaven Hills, $20

Excellent. This site, which overlooks the Columbia River, was destined to become a rock quarry until the Boyle clan bought it. Hence the name of this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Merlot (27%), Cabernet Franc (7%), Malbec (6%) and Syrah (3%). It's filled with notes of wark oak, black cherries, raspberries, dates, plums, cranberries, pomegranate and Green & Black's Dark 85% chocolate. There's nice richness in the complex and firm structure that bodes well for the future.

Black Hills Estate Winery 2007 Nota Bene, Okanagan Valley, $53 CDN

Outstanding. How popular is this wine? Jason Priestley's group released 2,500 cases on April 18, and that allotment was gone two days later. This annual tribute to Bordeaux from this Black Sage Bench vineyard/winery features a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (46%), Merlot (39%) and Cabernet Franc. Aromas conjure up thoughts of blueberry, boysenberry, milk chocolate, chalkboard dust and a hint of Wheat Thins cracker. Amazing richness of brambleberries and milk chocolate spill out across the palate with structure of sweet tannins. It's solid from start to finish and built for the long haul.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2007 Bordheauxd Red, Columbia Valley, $26

Recommended. A tribute to the local windsurfing scene in Hood River, Ore., the blend of Syrah (56%), Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) and Merlot displays high-toned red fruit and oak influence. The combination of raspberry, cranberry, Montmorency cherry and green olives should receive a warm welcome with Tuesday night fare.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2007 Rock Star Red, Columbia Valley, $44

Recommended. An even split of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon from their reserve program exudes notes of blueberry, mince meat, stewed plums, crushed herbs and fresh-cut peppers.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Artist Series Meritage, Columbia Valley, $50

Excellent. The estate Canoe Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills formed the base of this bottling, which showcases the artwork of Norwegian Eva Isaksen. Inside, the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (35%), Malbec (6%) and Petit Verdot yields aromas of black cherries, raspberry, oregano, caraway seed, green tea and Graham cracker. Cherry and plum jam flavors linger above bittersweet chocolate and fine-grained tannins in a juicy fashion.

Columbia Crest 2006 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley, $34

Outstanding. While the Reserve Cab received much of the recent fanfare, this bottling named for the Johnny Appleseed of Washington wine remains the pride of Ray Einberger and his staff. While the blend is rather straight-forward (two-thirds Merlot and a third Cabernet Sauvignon), there's amazing complexity. Barreling for 30 months elicits alluring notes of cinnamon toast with eight-grain bread. A bit more air brings in blueberry sauce over chocolate cake with backing from black cherry, crushed mint leaf and juniper. It's smooth as silk on the palate with chocolate and cherries, showing plums and coffee grounds on the midpalate.

Desert Wind Winery 2007 Ruah, Wahluke Slope, $20

Recommended. The Fries family grows and builds this blend of Merlot (48%), Cabernet Sauvignon (36%) and Cabernet Franc. Their production brings an offering of cassis, blueberry, pie cherries, rose petals, cedar and cinnamon with a hint of chocolate truffle and alfalfa. Enjoy with hearty meats, and while there's a suggestion to drink before 2012, its tannins should allow it to shoulder more time than that.

E.B. Foote Winery 2007 Northwest Duet, Columbia Valley, $18

Recommended. This mix of Cab (55%) and Merlot - which comes from Milbrandt and Arianses in Mattawa and as well as Graves in the Columbia Gorge - makes for aromas of black cherry, sugared plums, pomegranate and milk chocolate. There's nice juiciness inside a medium structure with boysenberry and cherry flavors.

E.B. Foote Winery 2006 Perfect a Trois, Wahluke Slopes, $18

Outstanding. Milbrandt brothers holdings on the Wahluke Slope contribute Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc, which impart aromatics that center on blueberries, backed by sassafras, Graham cracker and citrus oil. Cherries, allspice and chocolate take over on the lip-smacking palate. While it's lighter bodied, there's a wealth of complexity.

Fraser Vineyard 2008 Randonee, Snake River Valley, $22

Outstanding. Bill Fraser takes a 50/50 approach to Malbec and Syrah with this, and the fascinating results are worth the five-minute stroll from Broncos Stadium in Boise. Aromas include macerated cherries, plums, cocoa powder, patchuli, eucalyptus and red pepper flakes. They are joined on the lively palate by purple blackberries, smoky Italian herbs, edgy tannins and a scrape orange zest in the finish.

Gifford Hirlinger 2007 Stateline Red, Walla Walla Valley, $16

Excellent. Mike Berghan's vineyard near the Washington/Oregon border shows off in this even blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which is priced to sell and built for early enjoyment with its barrel program of all neutral oak. Hints of cinnamon, dried strawberry, Red Vines licorice, alder smoke and steak juice fill the nose. A rich reward awaits on the palate with cassis, black cherries, brown sugar and raspberries. There's pleasing length with a tannin structure and finish reminiscent of Swiss Miss cocoa with marshmallows.

Hard Road to Hoe Vineyards 2007 Iron Bed Red, Wahluke Slope, $28

Excellent. This bordello-themed winery overlooking Lake Chelan ties in Cabernet Franc (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Syrah (10%) from Riverbend Vineyard with a ribbon of Zinfandel from Rosebud Vineyard. The production is lively and balanced with hallmarks of red currants, boysenberries, cordial cherries, pouch tobacco and Baker's chocolate.

Hester Creek Estate Winery 2008 Cabernet-Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $17 CDN

Excellent. Last year's edition produced a Platinum for Wine Press Northwest, and this multi-layered drink seems headed in the same direction. The nose features Cherry Vanilla Coke, jasmine tea, stewed plums, spearmint and orange rind. There's more light cherry on the very pleasing flavors on the entry with integrated cedar components, notes of cardamom and milk chocolate. In the finish is this remarkable hint of cherry lime sorbet.

Kathken Vineyards 2007 The Remedy Red, Oregon, $17

Excellent.. Kathy and Ken Slusser turned this melange of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and estate Pinot Noir into an Old World style drink that features blackberry, moist earth, pie cherry, fresh dill and coffee. Well-managed oak, plum jam, hints of white strawberry will accent a variety of foods.

Koenig Vineyards 2007 Cabernet-Syrah, Snake River Valley, $25

Outstanding. An even split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah carries a whiff of chalkboard dust, black cherries, violets, rose petal, cola, nutmeg and tobacco. On the palate, black cherries and blackberries provide some muscle, with bold plums adding richness and lingering acidity. The finish of green peppercorns and tar bring thoughts of pairing with bruschetta.

Latah Creek Wine Cellars NV Vinosity, Washington, $20

Recommended. Six vineyards went into this lot of 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (47%) and 2007 Zinfandel (23%) to go with 2006 Syrah. The equation works out with aromas of plums, pomegranate, chocolate and NECCO wafer, followed by a sturdy palate of black strawberries, raspberries and more pomegranate juice.

Lopez Island Vineyards 2006 Crawford Vineyards Cab-Merlot, Yakima Valley, $23

Recommended. Here's a lightly structured blend with lots of strands that tie rather nicely together. Pomegranate, root beer, horehound, green peppercorns, citrus and milk chocolate aromas delve into a quick burst of raspberry flavors with cranberry acidity, edgy tannins and some milk chocolate in the finish.

Martin-Scott Winery 2007 Raven Ridge Red, Columbia Valley, $23

Recommended. Wenatchee Valley winemaker Mike Scott drove down the Columbia River to Jones Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope for a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (61%) and Syrah. Notes of plums, marionberries and pie cherries make for a lighter bodied drink with some bittersweet chocolate. Enjoy with juicy backyard burger.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Quatrain, Okanagan Valley, $45 CDN

Outstanding. In our opinion, here is the top achievement from British Columbia's showpiece winery. New Zealand native John Simes chooses to lead this four-part harmony with Syrah (41%), Merlot (32%), Cabernet Franc (14%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, and it's massive from start to finish. Telling is the nose of boysenberry, blackberry, Belgian chocolate and green peppercorns. It's luscious on the palate with more boysenberries, delicious chocolaty tannins and some trailing tar. The age-worthy acidity and tannin structure should allow it to get even better in 2-3 years.

Morrison Lane 2005 33 1/3 Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $33.33

Recommended. Easy to remember, easy to price and easy to drink is this smoky melding of Rhone varieties Counoise (33%), Syrah (33%) and Viognier (33%). Black currants, black cherries, lilac, chocolate and Padron 3000 cigar aromas waft up. There's more chocolate and cherries on the lighter-styled palate with blackberry and raspberry acidity with some smoke meaty undertones.

Nuthatch Cellars 2007 Red-breasted Red, Washington/Oregon, $19

Excellent. It's easy to overlook the diminutive forest-loving nuthatch, the namesake for this quaint and tiny winery in Corvallis, Ore. This is a blend of Cabernet Franc from Washington's Coyote Canyon (64%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (31%) and Syrah from Del Rio in Oregon's Rogue Valley. Marionberry, plum fruit leather, blueberry, lavender, bittersweet chocolate, vanilla and cigar leaf begin to describe the aromas. And it's a jaunty little drink of more plums, blueberry and blackberry. Well-managed tannins fit well into the finish of Belgian chocolate.

OS Winery 2005 Klipsun Vineyard M, Red Mountain,

Excellent. It's not quite technically a Merlot because of its level with Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), but the typically powerful fruit off this site has been tamed nicely for immediate enjoyment. Raspberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit leather aromas also show nice barrel notes of chocolate and cedar. On the palate, it's raspberry again leading the way into lingering strawberries. Easy tannins and balance make it easy to drink, finished with some spicy cherries.

Pepper Bridge Winery 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $55

Recommended. A Merlot-led blend with Cabernet Sauvignon (39%) and Cabernet Franc (9%) features aromas of strawberry, raspberry, black cherry, chocolate and cedar. There's boysenberry, white strawberry and leather on the power-laden palate that will benefit with patience, but it can be enjoyed now with duck breast or pork ribs.

Pondera Winery 2006 Consensio, Columbia Valley, $33

Excellent. Kirkland, Wash., winemaker Shane Howard leads with Stillwater Creek Vineyard's Cabernet Sauvignon (56%) to create harmony with Merlot (31%), Sangiovese (9%) and Cab Franc. Notes of strawberries, Bing cherries, root beer, coffee and bittersweet chocolate come together for a smooth and balanced drink.

Tasawik Vineyard 2006 Estate Hailstorm Red, Walla Walla County, $36

Recommended. On May 19, 2006, a hailstorm pounded this vineyard near the Snake River into submission, ultimately claiming 90% of the berries and leaving it a crop of 0.4 ton per acre. The resulting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot makes for a nose of blackberry jam on dark toast, dark chocolate and some fresh-cut asparagus. Black cherries and bittersweet chocolate fill the corners of the mouth, along with sturdy tannins and a long finish of blackberry.

Trio Vintners 2007 Riot Red, Columbia Valley, $18

Excellent. Many of the lots by this Walla Walla incubator project are tiny, but here's one of scale. Sangiovese (53%), Syrah (36%) and Mourvedre come from Boushey and Den Hoed (Yakima Valley) as well as Birch Creek and Rizzuti (Walla Walla Valley). There's a broadcast of boysenberry, cherry, slate and orange oil aromas. The palate receives nice creaminess on the entry from more boysenberry and blueberry. Fine-grained tannin is washed over in the finish of chocolate and cherries. Serve with seared meats.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Cuvee Rouge, Columbia Valley, $20

Excellent. Larry Lehmbecker's staff will serve many glasses of this food-friendly wine at its on-premise bistro overlooking Lake Chelan, and it's a skillful blend of Merlot (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), Syrah (13%) and Cab Franc from six vineyards - including the Yakima Valley's up-and-coming Dineen. High-toned red fruit aromas include roasted coffee, tar and porcini mushroom. That Syrah from Weinbau lead into the palate with blackberries, backed by chocolate and more tar and cranberries. Finesse and bright acidity lend this well to tomato-based pasta dishes.

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