Reds
Cabernet Sauvignon
Chelan Estate Winery & Vineyards
2004 Stillwater Creek Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 241 cases, 13.5% alc., $30
Excellent. Rich Nestor took fruit from outside the new Lake Chelan AVA for this silky Cab that opens with pleasant aromas of boysenberry, mocha, mince meat and oak notes of allspice, tar and toast. It's creamy black cherry on the attack with the backing of rich boysenberry, a drizzle of honey and drip of milk chocolate and chalky tannins. Each time back presents something extra.
Cor Cellars
2006 McKinley Springs Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Horse Heaven Hills, 600 cases, 14.8% alc., $25
Recommended. Luke Bradford's winery is within the Columbia Gorge AVA, but here he taps into one of Washington's up and coming vineyards for a Cab that features blackberries, pie cherries, figs, green olives, crushed pink peppercorns, menthol, bittersweet chocolate and Graham cracker.
DavenLore Winery
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
Horse Heaven Hills, 113 cases, 15.4% alc., $25
Excellent. Alder Ridge gave Prosser winemaker Gordon Taylor the base for his quaffer that greets with aromas of black cherries and Milk Duds. Richness reigns on the palate with more black cherries, a bite of blackberry and its seeds, followed by bittersweet chocolate and espresso notes as Malbec (11%) and Petit Verdot (4%) supply some additional power.
Fidelitas Wines
2006 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Horse Heaven Hills, 361 cases, 14.8% alc., $60
Outstanding! Sometimes in life you get what you pay for, and Red Mountain winemaker Charlie Hoppes doesn't disappoint his grower or the consumer here. Floral aromatics include a pinch of lavender, followed by plums and rich barrel notes of milk chocolate, coffee and a Fig Newton. The flavor profile focuses on juicy black cherries with coffee and leather in the backing, framed by bright tannins.
Fidelitas Wines
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, 14.6% alc., $25
Outstanding! Nine vineyard sites - primarily Champoux, Chandler Reach, Gamache and Weinbau - each bring something to the mix, and Charlie Hoppes skillfully sorts it all out. Purple fruit aromas are joined by hints of cocoa powder, cinnamon spice and Graham cracker. Open wide and experience a remarkable intensity of fruit that arrives on time and stays through the finish as dark cherries and blackberry flavors swirl about. It's balanced, full, round and smooth with firm tannins and warm oak. The finish of mint leaf and white strawberry add complexity. In the Red Mountain neighborhood, this looms as a bargain.
Fidelitas Wines
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Walla Walla Valley, 243 cases, 14.3% alc., $40
Excellent. LaTour and Windrow vineyards share a spotlight that flips on with aromas of dark plums, strawberry fruit leather, blackberries and toasted sesame seeds. More plums arrive on the plush palate, where blueberries and milk chocolate vie for attention in the midpalate. Easy drinking continues through to the notes of minerality in the finish.
Griffin Creek
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rogue Valley, 321 cases, 14.5% alc., $35
Excellent. The Southern Oregon piece of Willamette Valley Vineyard's portfolio offers big reds from Don and Traute Moore's Griffin Creek site in Ashland. Nearby Lakeside Vineyard also factors in, and they meld for a deliciously smooth Cab. Aromatics feature hints of a cherry Mountain Bar, Almond Joy, pie cherries, Beechnut chewing tobacco and green olives. Cherries and black currants race smoothly across on the palate with pleasing acidity and bold tannins.
Hester Creek Estate Winery
2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Okanagan Valley, 300 cases, 13.8% alc., $35 CDN
Recommended. One of the oldest estate plantings in Canada's Golden Mile makes for a classic Cab that fits in with the profile of its new Tuscan-theme villas. It broadcasts balanced notes of blackberries, strawberries, brown sugar, cedar and menthol within an age-worthy structure.
Lake Chelan Winery
2005 Rivers Bend Estate Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 749 cases, 13.7% alc., $28
Recommended. Boysenberry, stewed plums, coconut and chocolate notes from this Benton City, Wash., site are wrapped within a hugely muscular wine built for a duck breast, well-marbled meat or the cellar.
Feather
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 2,238 cases, 14.2% alc., $60
Excellent. Randy Dunn, who made Napa Valley's Caymus famous, continues to craft these Cabs in Walla Walla for those with patience. His trips to the Horse Heaven Hills, the Wahluke Slope and Stillwater Creek resulted in an invitation from plums, chocolate chip cookie, cocoa butter, timothy hay and saddle leather. Tipping the glass produces sensations of more plums with Bing cherry acidity and no-nonsense tannins that deserve a char-broiled Angus beef steak or two to five years in the cellar.
Olympic Cellars
2006 La Dolce Vida Dionysus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $23
Recommended. The Olympic Peninsula's oldest winery taps into one of Washington's most venerable vineyards for this racy and spicy Cab that's highlighted by black cherries, black pepper and black-strap molasses tones. Its lively acidity and zesty tannins make this perfect with a plate of puttanesca or a slab of lasagna.
Otis Kenyon Wines
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Walla Walla Valley, 581 cases, 14.6% alc., $34
Recommended. Here's a product from the fourth vintage for this winery in Milton-Freewater, Ore. It's a balanced and worthy wine from Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Windy Ridge, full of boysenberries, dried strawberry, vanilla extract, cigar leaf and almond notes. The farewell is of black licorice and a bite of fresh blackberry.
Rio Vista Wines
2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 50 cases, 14.5% alc., $25
Recommended. This young and tiny operation along the Columbia River below Chelan, Wash., maintains a small yet active vineyard below the tasting room. Currants, plums and mincemeat notes are held tight by firm tannins. There's enough acidity for this wine to mature and improve in the next 3-5 years.
Walla Walla Vintners
2006 Vineyard Select Cabernet Sauvignon
Walla Walla Valley, 345 cases, 14.3% alc., $48
Excellent. This Walla Walla icon looks upon its "vineyard-select" program akin to a vintage Port - not every year is deemed worthy. Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills, Tokar and Windrow contributed the Cab, while little-known Frazier Bluffs supplied Petit Verdot (6%). The math pencils out nicely. It's done in the hallmark Walla Walla Vintners fashion, layered with opulent oak to release aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, plums, brown sugar, cigar leaf and tar. They are delivered exponentially on the tongue with sweet spiciness and boldness, then finished with chocolate fudge. The proprietors suggest chicken breasts flamed with scotch, sauteed with shallots, chicken stock, tarragon, green peppercorns, creme fraîche and nutmeg.
Pinot Noir
Adelsheim Vineyard
2007 Bryan Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir
Chehalem Mountains, 280 cases, 12.9% alc., $68
Excellent. Fruit from these Pommard clones received more hangtime than most lots under winemaker Dave Paige's command. The patience paid off. Strawberry, leather, cedar and Graham cracker aromas turn into delicious flavors of strawberry/rhubarb jam, plums and lingering blueberry. Loads of acidity, just a bit of tannin and red pepper flakes in the finish bode well for osso bucco or the cellar.
Adelsheim Vineyard
2007 Calkins Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir
Chehalem Mountains, 249 cases, 12.8% alc., $58
Recommended. This legendary Newberg., Ore., winery beat the rains by harvesting this parcel on Sept. 24. That helped create a blue-toned offering featuring blueberry and raspberries with Bing cherry acidity and oak accents of brown sugar and tar. Suggested fare includes lamb shanks or roasted duck.
Anne Amie Vineyards
2007 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
Yamhill-Carlton District, 148 cases, 13.5% alc., $50
Outstanding! Thomas Houseman and viticulturist Jason Tosch teamed up on their first full vintage together here, and this product of Pommard clones shows remarkable finesse and food-friendly acidity. Aromatics feature cassis, Red Vines licorice, cedar, caramel and allspice. That cherry licorice returns on the palate with plums and milk chocolate tones from French oak. Later accents of green peppercorn, raspberry and orange peel make for a great partnering with salmon.
Anne Amie Vineyards
2006 L'iris Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 100 cases, 14.3% alc., $75
Outstanding! Estate fruit makes up a third of this remarkable effort, backed by Boisseau (25%), Hawks View (25%), Deux Vert and Louise. Effusive aromas of white pepper, plums, baked cherry pie and tobacco evolve into a beautifully rich approach by more cherries, marionberry, plum and milk chocolate. Its carriage of acidity and anise finish will reward those who follow up on the suggested pairing with a duck breast that's joined by a blackberry sage sauce.
Anne Amie Vineyards
2007 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 3,671 cases, 13.6% alc., $35
Recommended. Nine vineyards come together in the bottle for a featuring of blueberry, boysenberry, cedar and vanilla, with an underpinning of minerality, muscovado sugar and lively acidity. Suggested fare includes a grilled burger with truffle fries.
Apolloni Vineyards
2007 Olivia Vineyard Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 237 cases, 13.3% alc., $32
Recommended. One of four estate parcels at this Forest Grove, Ore., winery, it makes for a delicately styled Pinot, accented by pie cherries, allspice, eucalyptus, cedar and grassy tones.
Elk Cove Vineyards
2007 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 19,751 cases, 13.5% alc., $29
Excellent. Second-generation winemaker Adam Campbell strives annually to make this his most approachable Pinot Noir. Thankfully, it's also his most accessible. Black cherry, malted milk ball and rum spice aromas waltz into a big, juicy and balanced drink of blackberry going in and blackberry going out. In between are notes of Ovaltine and smoky green peppercorn. Enjoy this with a Montreal seasoned tri-tip or a steak encrusted with ground coffee and cocoa.
Garry Oaks Winery
2007 Estate Pinot Noir
Gulf Islands, 350 cases, 12% alc., $23 CDN
Excellent. Elaine Kozak makes the wine. Marcel Mercier grows the grapes. It's difficult to tell who has the more demanding job at this winery in the middle of the Strait of Georgia, but they continue to succeed. The nose is akin to fruit punch with cherries, blueberries, leather and cedar. It's exceptionally bright on the palate with beautiful Bing cherries and more blueberry, then a trailing finish of cranberry tartness. Enjoy this chilled just a bit and admire its rose color in between sips.
Illahe Vineyards & Winery
2007 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 1,700 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Excellent. Named after a tribal term that the French would refer to as terroir, this operation in Dallas, Ore., once sold grapes to Cristom and Joe Dobbes. This entry-level release features aromas of Cherry Garica ice cream, blueberry, tar and leather. There's a follow-through of flavors with nice leafiness, a nice blast of acidity and assertive tannins. The cherry candy finish will play nicely with pork tenderloin that's rubbed with herbs de Provence or pasta tossed with cherry tomatoes.
Illahe Vineyards & Winery
2007 Reserve Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 200 cases, 13% alc., $38
Excellent. Co-winemakers Brad Ford and Michael Lundeen showcase 50% new French oak, but the program still allows for fresh aromas of a nice Hawaiian Fruit Punch to emerge above mint and allspice. It's an easy drink of raspberries and cherries with a bit of grip at the end.
King Estate
2007 Domaine Pinot Noir
Oregon, 617 cases, 13% alc., $60
Recommended. The smallest production from one of Oregon's largest producer offers notes of raspberries, spearmint and tart cranberries, backed by the program of new French oak (71%) shows with tones of tobacco and tar.
Kramer Vineyards
2006 Cardiac Hill Pinot Noir
Yamhill-Carlton District, 100 cases, 14.4% alc., $40
Excellent. Trudy Kramer admits that this 10-year-old parcel of Pommard and Dijon 115 tried her patience, but thankfully she stayed the course. Complex aromas include deep black cherries, strawberries, cinnamon bark, smoke paprika and a hint of baseball card bubble gum powder. There's an Old World attitude on the palate with pie cherries, cassis and some smokiness that will lend it nicely to a hearty stew or Beef Burgundy over noodles.
Kramer Vineyards
2006 Estate Pinot Noir
Yamhill-Carlton District, 250 cases, 14.6% alc., $20
Excellent. This release includes fruit from vines planted in 1984, and the ripeness of the hot 2006 vintage shows. Strawberries, black cherries, blackberries, leather, candela tobacco and milk chocolate tones play out in the nose and the mouth with a sturdy structure and bittersweet chocolate in the finish.
Marchesi Vineyards
2007 Giuseppe Pinot Noir
Columbia Gorge, 144 cases, 13.5% alc., $28
Excellent. Alexis Pouillon crafts the wines for Italian-born Franco Marchesi and his Hood River, Ore., winery. The blend of Wy'East and White Salmon vineyards yields scents that open the door to a Hallmark store, followed quickly by hints of dark strawberries, pie cherries, cassis, forest floor, peppermint, light tobacco and peppermint. Hand-picked strawberries dominate the palate with good weight and balance. There's a touch of citrus and mint in the finish that bodes well for chinook salmon.
Maysara Winery
2007 Asha Pinot Noir
McMinnville, 580 cases, 13.5% alc., $39
Recommended. Mulberry, leather, light cherries and tar aromas spin off into a silky structure centered on strawberries and boysenberries. A subtle smokiness and blueberry acidity add to the finish.
Maysara Winery
2007 Jamsheed Pinot Noir
McMinnville, 4,500 cases, 13.7% alc., $25
Recommended. This bio-dynamic estate blend of Pommard and Dijon clones is named for an ancient Persian king, and it's a showy tribute. Sweet oak aromas are met by piquant notes of pomegranate, pie cherries, allspice and cedar smoke. It's an easy and light-bodied drink with a princely ransom of cherries, chocolate and bright acidity.
Maysara Winery
2007 Three Degrees Pinot Noir
McMinnville, 3,500 cases, 12.5% alc., $18
Recommended. Tahmiene Momtazi's lineup from the 2007 vintage shows consistent approachability. This is no exception with aromas of raspberry, strawberry Jolly Rancher candy, crushed mint leaf and eucalyptus. Cherries and raspberries lead the way in an easy-drinking, straight-forward Pinot. Zesty acidity is accented by a long, smooth and smoky finish.
Nk'Mip Cellars
2007 Pinot Noir
Okanagan Valley, 1,270 cases, 13.9% alc., $20 CDN
Recommended. Bear Cub Vineyard provides the majority for this offering. Black cherries, dried cranberries and woodruff make for a good, clean food-friendly Pinot that proudly showcases acidity rather than tannin.
Nk' Mip Cellars
2007 Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir
Okanagan Valley, 1,246 cases, 13.9% alc., $25 CDN
Excellent. Randy Picton and his team at North America's first aboriginal-owned winery/vineyard take pride in their growing success with Pinot Noir, and rightfully so. This won best of class at the All-Canadian Wine Competition, starting with its nose that focuses on high-toned red fruit, rose petal, moist earth, coffee, brown sugar and red peppercorns. Enjoy the creamy strawberry pie and sublime acidity on the palate, along with notes of more earth and coffee. Mellow tannins make this a joy to drink in its youth, but the flavors will continue to meld and gain complexity over the next 2-3 years.
Redhawk Vineyard and Winery
2007 Pataccoli Family Vineyard Pinot Noir
Eola-Amity Hills, 124 cases, 13.5% alc., $35
Recommended. John Pataccoli's one-acre block of 31-year-old Pommard clone vines presented him with notes of boysenberry, pie cherry, white strawberry, grassiness and tar. It's wound around a structure that's bold with acidity and tannin.
Redhawk Vineyard and Winery
2007 Redhawk Estate Pinot Noir
Eola-Amity Hills, 103 cases, 13.4% alc., $22
Recommended. This Pinot Noir house in Oregon's capital city delves into its namesake estate vineyard, a home to Dijon clones 113 and 114. John Pataccoli steers his program toward wines featuring high-toned red fruit inside a food-friendly structure. Here's another example with strawberry fruit leather, raspberry, cherry pipe tobacco and oregano tones that focus the palate on pie-cherry acidity and tannins that broaden across the palate.
Redhawk Vineyard and Winery
2007 Vintner's Reserve Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 163 cases, 13.7% alc., $30
Recommended. Cranberry, pie cherry, citrus, sandalwood and spice are the hallmarks of this lively little wine that charms with shiny acidity and very little tannin, finishing with bittersweet chocolate and strawberry fruit leather.
Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery
2006 Deux Verres Reserve Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 981 cases, 14.3% alc., $50
Outstanding! Raid your buddy's cellar for what ranks as one of Jacques Tardy's finest efforts. It's a lovely melange of nine sites - Hawks View (Chehalem Mountains), Bella Vida, La Colina and Olson (Dundee Hills), Anden, Temperance Hill and Vanjon (Eola-Amity Hills), Hyland (McMinnville) and Battle Creek (Willamette Valley) - off five appellations. The introduction shows a lot of fruit with black strawberries, raspberries, pie cherries and watermelon with a whiff of toasted almonds. There's a rush of fresh blueberries into the mouth, backed by strawberries and Bing cherries. Bright acidity and tannins tucked in the back make it great for quaffing or serving with salmon.
Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery
2007 Olson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
Dundee Hills, 246 cases, 13.15% alc., $65
Excellent. Oregon's signature berry - the marionberry - takes the leading role here. There also are notes of cherries, smoky oak and saddle leather in the nose, and the juicy, balance and lightly structured palate includes boysenberry.
Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery
2007 Oregon Pinot Noir
Oregon, 8,600 cases, 13.6% alc., $29
Recommended. No fewer than 18 vineyards contribute to this delicious and straight-forward drink. Aromas feature black cherries, strawberries and tobacco leaf, followed by more cherry, tobacco and nutmeg flavors.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2007 Elton Vineyard Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 410 cases, 13% alc., $45
Outstanding! Here's one of Oregon's premier vineyards -an Eola-Amity HIlls site first planted in 1983 - and winemaker Forrest Klaffke shows amazing grace. Rainier cherries, cranberries, light coffee and allspice aromas transcend to flavors of sweetened pie cherries and light strawberry. Subtle tannins and zippy acidity make this a smooth and easy drink with a flash of citrus in the finish.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2007 Founder's Reserve Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 1,285 cases, 13% alc., $30
Excellent. Cherry fruit leather, strawberry, watermelon and cherry tomato aromas trail into a sweet and bright introduction of strawberry and black cherry on the palate. Plums and coffee on the midpalate and the mouthfeel of zesty acidity and cherry-skin tannins suggest pairings with duck, turkey and salmon or cellaring until 2014.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2007 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 37,446 cases, 13% alc., $25
Excellent. This largest release by Jim Bernau's winery has a lot to offer. Plums, cranberry and watermelon aromas are entwined with cracked black pepper, toasted oak and a wisp of cedar. The pour brings a delicate and tart entry of cherries, strawberries and chocolate with leather and more caramel in the finish.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2007 Signature Cuvee Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 305 cases, 13% alc., $50
Outstanding! The pride of this publicly owned winery in Turner, Ore., is on display here in a meritorious manner. New French oak is showy yet balanced to back the early aromas of plums and Rainier cherries. That fruit turns juicy on the palate, which exhibits beautiful body, accented by allspice in the finish. Suggested fare includes smoked duck, mushroom risotto and even raspberry chocolate torte.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2008 Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 19,270 cases, 12.5% alc., $19
Recommended. Here's the largest production of Beaujolais-style Pinot Noir in the Northwest, and it's sweet, fresh and fruity in every aspect with plums, cherries and blueberries. This vintage is showing more tannin than the previous two, so tuck this away for year or two to see how this approach ages, or enjoy now with holiday turkey, smoked salmon or pizza.
Merlot
Claar Cellars
2006 White Bluffs Merlot
Columbia Valley, 249 cases, 13.8% alc., $19
Excellent. The Claar family sold off its grapes for more than a decade before deciding to bottle their own wine in 1997. This releases notes of cassis, cherry liqueur, lavender, rose petals, brown sugar, cigar leaf and steaming drip coffee. It's a hedonistic drink with more cherries, cola and menthol that heighten the structure that features acidity before the tannins add some staying power. This earned a gold at the San Francisco International judging.
Chelan Estate Vineyards & Winery
2004 Estate Vineyard Merlot
Columbia Valley, 342 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Excellent. This winery on Lake Chelan's south shore has relied on fruit outside the area for a portion of its program since opening in 2004. Estate grapes allowed Rich Nestor to bring out aromas of raspberry, blackberry jam, crushed almonds, chocolate, coffee and cherry liqueur. All that carries through on the fruity and jammy palate, where those brambleberries cascade into heavy tannins that bode well for a New York strip.
Des Voigne Cellars
2006 The Emcee Merlot
Walla Walla Valley, 147 cases, 14.3% alc., $28
Excellent. Woodinville-based Darren Des Voigne's impressive network of vineyard sources includes famed Pepper Bridge, and his Art Deco-themed labels pay homage to jazz legends. Here's a smooth delivery of black cherries and stewed plums, backed by root beer, violet and quiet oak accents, served with a cup of green tea in the finish. Des Voigne's suggested pairing? Search For the New Land by the late trumpeter Lee Morgan.
Fidelitas Wines
2006 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 579 cases, 14.4% alc., $25
Recommended. A blend of Conner-Lee, Stillwater Creek and Weinbau vineyards form the base of this richly textured Merlot that features red-fruit notes of raspberry and strawberry, flanked by Whitman Sampler chocolate and smoky oak. The structure features acidity over tannin, food-friendly tartness and cinnamon bark in the finish.
Fujishin Family Cellars
2007 Merlot
Snake River Valley, 105 cases, 14.1% alc., $20
Excellent. As Greg Koenig's assistant, Martin Fujishin plays a role in making some of Idaho's best wines. Now, this College of Idaho grad is moonlightight with his own label, here having tapped into the erstwhile-named Polo Cove Vineyard for this fruit. Older barrels allow him to preserve the red-toned aromas of cranberries, Bing cherries, beet juice, allspice, cedar and milk chocolate. Sweet cherries arrive on the palate as Bings jostle with maraschinos, all of it ensconced in delicious acidity and long and pleasing tannins.
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyard
2007 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 13.7% alc., $23
Excellent. Estate vines that overlook the Snake River upstream of Pasco, Wash., made for this drink that includes Syrah (5%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Cassis, cinnamon and cedar aromas gather complexity by the accompaniment of mocha, saddle leather and thyme notes. A wealth of strawberry and vanilla flavors on the entry come with a pinch of green peppercorns and the good grip of tannin. That youthful structure, along with ripe pie cherries in the finish, will pair with suggested fare of T-bone or a New York strip topped by blue cheese and plated with a Merlot reduction sauce.
LaStella Winery
2006 Maestoso
Okanagan Valley, 250 cases, 15.3% alc., $85 CDN
Outstanding! Sideways be damned, Merlot is the flagship wine at this sister winery of Le Vieux Pin, our 2009 B.C. Winery to Watch. Vineyard blocks from sites near Oliver and Osoyoos get cropped to 1 ton per acre, which explains the complexity, intensity and bottle price - among the most expensive Merlots in the Pacific Northwest. It's effusive with aromas of frozen raspberries, blackberry, orange peel, ginger root, cedar and garden-fresh green bean. Blackberry jam and sweet strawberries gush across the palate with cassis and earthiness arriving at the midpoint. Tannins gather and frame both the fruit and the acidity, and the finish is of bitter dark chocolate. It's a massive wine that coats the glass like a tailored jacket and can be enjoyed now with game or lamb. However, it will get better.
Mercer Estates
2007 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 3,395 cases, 14.5% alc., $22
Recommended. Black cherries and cherry pipe tobacco tones fill the senses, finding favor from sweet oak and a juicy structure that offers a depth of flavors, backed by lively tannins and bold acidity.
Nk' Mip Cellars
2007 Qmw Qwmp Merlot
Okanagan Valley, 2,696 cases, 14.5% alc., $27 CDN
Excellent. The top-tier line from this resort/winery/vineyard in Osoyoos, B.C., shows finely knit aromas of black cherry, unripe blackberry, crab apple, chocolate-covered orange rind, tar, tobacco and football leather. It's a youthful release of cranberries and pie cherries, but already showing beautiful balance of acidity and tannin to make it built for aging. Pair with a lamb burger slathered in caramelized onions or spaghetti under meatballs.
Olympic Cellars
2006 La Dolce Vida Bacchus Vineyard Merlot
Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.9% alc., $18
Excellent. A perfume of brambleberries, candied crab apples and green peppercorns waves you in for the silky arrival of sweet cherries, huckleberries and blueberries on the palate. There's a nice balance of acidity and tannins, which will reward a Kittitas Valley beef sirloin, topped with melted smoked Gouda.
Okanogan Estate & Vineyards
2005 Merlot
Washington, 618 cases, 14.1% alc., $20
Recommended. Sites not far from the Canadian border - Orchard Hills, Sorensen and Blackler vineyards - filled the bins for this noteworthy approach of blueberries, cherries and mincemeat with a bit of chalk and a lot of chocolate in the finish.
Otis Kenyon Wines
2006 Merlot
Walla Walla Valley, 385 cases, 14.9% alc., $30
Recommended. There's a lot of attraction within this product of Seven Hills Vineyard as the aromas include hints of blueberries, cherries, chocolate and muscovado sugar, green peppercorns, cigar leaf, cedar and tar. The entry is of sweet tobacco, pie cherry tartness and a remarkable smooth, long and warm finish reminiscent of eating an Extra Dark Chocolate Chipotle Cherry from Chukar Cherries.
Walla Walla Vintners
2007 Merlot
Walla Walla Valley, 670 cases, 14.2% alc., $28
Outstanding! Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri celebrate the 15th anniversary of their winery this winter, and their lead winemaker - Bill von Metzger - constructed one of the best Merlots produced from Walla Walla Valley fruit, namely Dwelley, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills. Boysenberry aromas sing out, joined by pomegranate, cherries, spearmint, rose petal and barrel notes of oatmeal and chocolate akin to Guinness stout. Indeed, there's a creaminess to the palate with more boysenberries, then it's buoyed by great acidity, supple tannins and a long finish of bittersweet chocolate. Their suggested pairing features braised ribs and the music of Charles Aznavour - the Frank Sinatra of France.
Westport Winery
2008 Boomrunner Reserve Merlot
Washington, 90 cases, 12% alc., $29
Excellent. The Roberts family in Aberdeen, Wash., created this small-lot program in a fresh and youthful style that's akin to a barrel sample. Blackberry jam, boysenberry and plums are bound by easy tannins and hints of mocha and leather.
Syrah
Abacela
2006 Estate Syrah
Southern Oregon, 297 cases, 14.5% alc., $30
Outstanding! Earl Jones and his former winemaker, Kiley Evans, made quite a splash with their 2005 Reserve Syrah, and this deserves headlines, too. Aromatics offer up warm chocolate syrup, plums, plump blackberries, caramel and rose petal. You are presented with an opulent entry of plums and loganberries that evolve into cherries, then devil's food cake with the sturdy structure to survive well into the next decade.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2006 Rock Star Red Syrah
Horse Heaven Hills, 220 cases, 14.5% alc., $38
Excellent. Jarrod Boyle produced a hit with this blend for a band trio made up of Northwest wine industry folks Paul Gregutt, Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen and Dan McCarthy. Black cherry, bubble gum, cinnamon, cedar, mincemeat and pink peppercorn aromas are tuned up in a lively way on the palate with plums, raspberry, chocolate and tar. It closes with curtain call of more cherries.
Bunchgrass Winery
2006 Syrah
Columbia Valley, 289 cases, 14.6% alc., $32
Recommended. This Walla Walla winery was shuttered for a time, but it's been resurrected. Lewis Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills allowed for this bottling in which blueberry, loganberry and black cherry serve as the tasty theme, assisted by a bit of chocolate and green peppercorn.
Church & State Wines
2007 Coyote Bowl Vineyard Syrah
Okanagan Valley, 1,165 cases, 14.4% alc., $26 CDN
Recommended. The Okanagan estate vineyard for this Victoria, B.C. winery delivers a diverse Old World-style wine with blueberries, enticing herbaeceousness and bright acidity that will accent a smoky slab of pork ribs or duck breast alongside a berry compote.
Claar Cellars
2005 White Bluffs Syrah
Columbia Valley, 212 cases, 13.5% alc., $17
Excellent. Fruit from the Claar family estate spent two years in warm oak, showing aromas of milk chocolate, allspice and tar that wrap around black cherries and black currants. The drink is full-bodied with a big delivery of more black cherries and bittersweet chocolate that fine-grained tannins carry from beginning to end.
DavenLore Winery
2007 Syrah
Columbia Valley, 115 cases, 15.5% alc., $25
Outstanding! Gord Taylor and Joan Davenport's young winery in Prosser, Wash., provides a helicopter view of the Yakima Valley, and here's another wine that sends you soaring. The melange of Syrah from Alder Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills) and Newhouse (Snipes Mountain) vineyards as well as Petite Sirah (5.5%) from Zephyr Ridge and Malbec (5.5%) and Mourvedre. It's a rich offering of black cherries, plums, boysenberry, vanilla extract and Hershey's syrup with ample acidity and some slate in the finish. Suggested pairings include red-sauced pasta or lamb.
Des Voigne Cellars
2006 Montreaux
Red Mountain, 183 cases, 14.3% alc., $30
Excellent. Syrah fruit from the Williams family's Kiona Vineyard covers several octaves in the glass under the direction of Darren Des Voigne. The opening act includes aromas of blackberries, black cherries, Boylan Cane Cola, Garden Herb Triscuit, smoke and green peppercorns. Inside is a mouth-filling melody of jammy blackberries and blueberries, then cherry acidity and chocolaty tannins chime in.
DiStefano Winery
2005 Syrah "R"
Columbia Valley, 433 cases, 15.3% alc., $32
Recommended. Creamy black cherries, cassis, blueberry and tar components swirl in a huge extraction on the palate, backed by mincemeat and cured bacon. Enjoy with spicy meats and dishes such as Moroccan lamb.
Griffin Creek
2005 Fortmiller Vineyard Syrah
Rogue Valley, 128 cases, 14.1% alc., $35
Recommended. Chukar cherries, dried plums, saddle leather, pie cherry acidity and brassy oak tones make this a quaffer for the next 1-2 years and one that should pair well Italian dishes or lamb.
Griffin Creek
2006 Syrah
Rogue Valley, 235 cases, 15% alc., $35
Outstanding! Joe Dobbes inspired Willamette Valley Vineyards to launch this label more than a decade ago, and here's a testament to his prescience. The high-elevation site of Fortmiller (2,000 feet) and Lakeside in Talent, Ore., show off appealing notes of pomegranate, strawberry fruit leather, vanilla bean, pink and green peppercorns. That fruit sings on the palate, joined by a chorus of blueberries, sweet cherries and boysenberries. There's late acidity to accent the chocolaty tannins, and the finish features Red Hots cinnamon candy. Suggested fare includes Beef Wellington or a tri-tip with plum compote.
Lake Chelan Winery
2007 Rivers Bend Estate Vineyard Syrah
Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 13.7% alc., $28
Excellent. A big and brawny nose of blackberries, sweet oak, spearmint and lilac funnels into flavors of dark plums, marionberry, more boysenberry, bacon, leather and root beer. There's a sturdiness to the tannin and a long, oaky finish. Those who embrace barrel accents will find this easy to swallow and difficult to put down.
Lake Chelan Winery
2007 Rivers Bend Estate Vineyard
Reserve Syrah
Columbia Valley, 199 cases, 13.5% alc., $35
Outstanding! Because this vineyard is in the Yakima Valley - and not the new Lake Chelan AVA - this winery on the lake's north shore will need to sell these grapes or create a second label for this fruit. Ray Sandidge's work with this release should have the owners thinking of the latter. Blueberry, cherry, chocolate and bacon fat aromas shout out "Syrah!" That profile is matched on the smooth entry, joined by notes of mincemeat, vanilla NECCO wafer, chocolaty tannins and bright, food-friendly acidity. That restrained alcohol and acidity bode well for five years of aging or a visit to the winery's on-premise barbecue restaurant.
L'Ecole No. 41
2006 Syrah
Columbia Valley, 2,683 cases, 14.8% alc., $25
Excellent. Marty Clubb and his crew often shuffle their lots with the skill of a Mandalay Bay poker dealer. Here, they folded in berries from eight sites throughout Eastern Washington - Bacchus, Candy Mountain, Clifton, Mirage, Pheasant, Seven Hills, Stone Tree and Willard Farms - and drew in some Grenache (5%). Resulting aromas include blueberry, boysenberry, cranberry, cedar and lightly toasted oak. Those delicious berries make for an easy-going drink with food-friendly acidity in the foundation and managed tannins. The last call is of dried cherries and tar.
Lone Canary
2007 Syrah
Columbia Valley, 148 cases, 13% alc., $22
Outstanding! Spokane vintner Mike Scott devotes a lot of his energy to the Milbrandt vineyards in Mattawa, Wash., and for good reason. Here's a beautiful and balanced Syrah with red tones to its aromatic profile, namely ripe strawberry and red currants with violets and baking spices on the upper shelf. There are no misgivings and no misconception on the pour, which is akin to velour. While the same fruit is there, it's not sweet, and joined by blackberry acidity on the midpalate. Inviting tannins are joined by espresso and cloves.
McKinley Springs Winery
2006 Syrah
Horse Heaven Hills, 409 cases, 14.9% alc., $22
Excellent. The Andrews family has been farming their land since World War II and tending its 2,000-acre vineyard since 1980. Doug Rowell turned this fruit into a wine rich with black cherry, raspberry and cranberry tones, backed by aromas of vanilla, tobacco leaf and cedar. That rich approach spills out seamlessly with more raspberries, joined by plums, tar and tobacco on the midpalate. There it's met by bright acidity and finished with dark strawberries and orange peel.
Mercer Estates
2007 McKinley Springs Vineyard Syrah
Horse Heaven Hills, 145 cases, 14.2% alc., $30
Excellent. David Forsyth focused his attention on six barrels for this new Prosser winery's first vineyard-designated production. Chukar Cherries, cordial cherries, blueberry and exotic herb aromas are alluring. The rich drink continues to offer lots of entry points with a raspberry jam entry and the American oak even yields hints of a PB&J sandwich. There's refreshing tartness in the finish of white strawberry and its leaf.
Northwest Totem Cellars
2006 Elerding Vineyard Syrah
Columbia Valley, 160 cases, 13.6% alc., $30
Outstanding! Woodinville winemaker Mike Sharadin gained a quick and early following with the sticky Viognier he produces from this Yakima Valley vineyard. Now, he's back with a stunning Syrah. It exudes wealth in the aromas of sweet toasted oak, backed by blueberry, black cherries, Milk Duds and cracked black pepper. There's more richness and longevity through the palate with blackberries, boysenberries and chocolate-covered cherries. Lean blueberry acidity makes it food-friendly, trailed by fine-grained tannins and a Nilla Wafer.
Northwest Totem Cellars
2006 Longhouse Syrah
Yakima Valley, 220 cases, 13.7% alc., $20
Outstanding! For the second straight year, Mike Sharadin lands our top rating for his more affordable Syrah. Dense black fruit aromas include Chukar Cherries, slate, moist earth and leather. This, too, is incredibly smooth with juicy brambleberry fruit. Acidity and tannins work to frame the structure without either dominating, and it saunters into a farewell of Bosco Chocolate Syrup.
Okanogan Estate & Vineyards
2005 Syrah
Washington, 537 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Outstanding! Mike Buckmiller's debut vintage with this variety at the first winery in Oroville, Wash., is a stunner. Black cherries, boysenberries, beautiful oak spice and chalkboard set the table for more richness on the palate. The black cherries continue to spill forth across the oak-driven palate with hints of bittersweet chocolate and lavender. A sandy tannin platform merely accents the length of the drink and will sidle up to a slab of pork ribs hot out of the Traeger.
Olympic Cellars Winery
2006 La Dolce Vida Sagemoor Vineyard Syrah
Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.7% alc., $25
Recommended. Port Angeles winemaker Benoit Murat commands attention with this wildly expressive release, starting with aromas of boysenberry, dried apricot, white chocolate, vanilla, violets, tar, roasted coffee beans and cola. Blueberry and boysenberry flavors are joined by pie cherry acidity and finished with a bite of a 5th Avenue candy bar.
Otis Kenyon Wines
2006 Syrah
Walla Walla Valley, 266 cases, 14.9% alc., $30
Recommended. Chilly evenings beside the fire call for a Syrah such as this. Spicy boysenberry and milk chocolate aromas are met by a warm greeting of juicy brambleberries, menthol, black pepper and black cherry liqueur. Suggested fare includes cracked pepper crackers topped with herbed goat cheese.
Sovereign Cellars
2006 Finnegan's Daughter Syrah
Horse Heaven Hills, 50 cases, 13.5% alc., $25
Recommended. Retired science teacher Dennis Gross takes fruit from Kiona and Aldercreek vineyards back to his diminutive Olympia winery. Raspberry, strawberry, watermelon and menthol notes splash around with verve, tied with a structure of lively acidity and a finish of cinnamon, cherries and chocolate.
3 Horse Ranch Vineyards
2007 Reserve Syrah
Snake River Valley, 402 cases, 14.2% alc., $19
Recommended. Idaho's top hired gun, Greg Koenig, pulled from Skyline Vineyards for this bold expression of plums, pie cherries, espresso, leaf tobacco, bittersweet chocolate and green peppercorn. It's all woven inside a structure that highlights age-worthy acidity rather than tannin.
Thurston Wolfe Winery
2007 Burgess Vineyard Syrah
Washington, 148 cases, 14.2% alc., $18
Outstanding! Wade Wolfe's success in working with this site in Pasco, Wash., continues. His craftsmanship makes it smell like a Walla Walla cult with the oak, and it feels like Horse Heaven Hills because of the depth and complexity. Blackberry and black cherry aromas are whirled around by notes of cinnamon, a chocolate brownie, black pepper and roasted coffee. And yet, there's marvelous opulence with that same black fruit. He suggests serving it with ham, lamb or sausages.
Westport Winery
2008 Swimmer's Last Vintner's Reserve Syrah
Washington, 205 cases, 12% alc., $27
Recommended. A profile of purple fruit includes boysenberries and black currants in a light structure with ample acidity.
Tempranillo
Abacela Vineyards & Winery
2007 Delfino Vineyard Tempranillo
Umpqua Valley, 119 cases, 15.5% alc., $25
Recommended. Here's one of two non-estate vineyard designate Temps offered by the Roseburg, Ore., winery that made the grape famous in the Northwest. Ripeness was not a problem with this site. Softened black cherries, cola, milk chocolate and chalkboard dust aromas turn into a drink of spicy cherries and creamy blueberries showing pleasing chalkiness and minerality.
Abacela Vineyards & Winery
2007 McCorquodale Vineyard Tempranillo
Umpqua Valley, 120 cases, 13.5% alc., $25
Recommended. The other non-estate lot from this vintage came in five days later and shows more restraint in the vineyard with notes of cherry preserves, raspberries dipped in chocolate and Graham cracker. Taut tannins, shiny acidity and a hint of sweetness bode well for smoked baby back ribs.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Tempranillo
Horse Heaven Hills, 73 cases, 14.6% alc., $55
Excellent. This Spanish variety thrives in the heat, and Jarrod Boyle's estate site is not lacking. Cherries and chocolate, chalkboard dust and wood smoke aromas swirl over this bold drink of more cherries and chocolate.
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards
2007 Tempranillo
Columbia Valley, 83 cases, 13.5% alc., $65
Outstanding! Son-in-law Marc Nelson tends the vines for the Gordons, and he and winemaker Tim Henley teamed up for this Pasco, Wash., winery's remarkable debut with this variety. Cinnamon bark, cocoa powder, black cherries, dill weed and smoked green peppercorn aromas set the table for a remarkably silky drink of blueberries, cherries, chocolate and coffee that's finished with some mint.
Redman Vineyard & Winery
2007 Tempranillo
Columbia Gorge, 150 cases, 13% alc., $26
Outstanding! Here's a fitting tribute to the late Bill Redman, who died of cancer in March. He targeted Czarnecki Vineyard in The Dalles, Ore., for this offering of cherry, slate, dark chocolate, saddle leather and a whiff of smoked clams. Cherries and chocolate dominate the smooth palate, joined by soft plums. It's a lightly structured Temp that will pair nicely with pork tenderloin joined by a cherry/Port reduction.
Cabernet Franc
San Juan Vineyards
2007 Cabernet Franc
Horse Heaven Hills, 220 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
Outstanding! This marked Chris Primus first full year at this Friday Harbor, Wash., winery. Alder Ridge Vineyard afforded him quite an opportunity, and he capitalized. Aromas of black cherries, plums baked on parchment paper and cherry cola also include cedar and a Swisher Sweets cigar. Lots of cherry flavors follow smoothly with more crushed leaf component and charming acidity. The tannins come off as tony, and the finish is of plums and mint chocolate.
Walla Walla Vintners
2007 Cabernet Franc
Columbia Valley, 760 cases, 14.6% alc., $28
Outstanding! The red-roofed barn on the outskirts of Walla Walla continues as one of the Northwest's top producers of Cabernet Franc. Cordon Grove (Yakima Valley), Dwelley (Walla Walla), Sagemoor (Columbia Valley) and Weinbau (Wahluke Slope) contribute the Cabernet Franc, with Merlot (14%) making up the rest. Breathe in hints of blueberry, cherry, Red Vines licorice, toasted almonds, cedar and baker's chocolate. Drink down more blueberries and cherries, with hints of moist earth and crumpled cigar leaf in the midpalate. By this point, the tannins catch up and take over for a bit prior to a flourish of horehound and more blueberries at the finish. Suggested fare is ratatouille that includes Walla Walla sweet onions and tossed with penne.
Zinfandel/Primitivo
Pend d'Oreille Winery
2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Primitivo
Washington, 186 cases, 15.4% alc., $28
Outstanding! A past Idaho Winery of the Year, this Sandpoint hot spot focuses its gaze on the Yakima Valley and - in this case - the Horse Heaven Hills. The Andrews family gave Stephen Meyer quite a palette to work with, and it's a nose full of Bing cherries, blueberries and Hershey's milk chocolate. Those berries and melted chocolate stream across the tongue in an inky fashion. Boysenberry tartness hits the midpalate before a cup of mocha espresso to go.
Pleasant Hill Cellars
2006 Zinfandel
Columbia Valley, 70 cases, 14.6% alc., $19
Excellent. Rare it is to see a Zin offered for less than $20, but leave it to Larry Lindvig in Carnation, Wash. It's a very cherry nose with oak influences of milk chocolate, vanilla extract and saddle leather. Sweet and creamy best describes the flavors of cherry candy, strawberry fruit leather and black licorice, which turn to bittersweet chocolate in the finish.
Sangiovese
Des Voigne Cellars
2007 Ciel du Cheval San Remo
Red Mountain, 223 cases, 14.5% alc., $26
Excellent. This Woodinville winery is developing a nice track record with this variety. And it stays true to the grape, starting with high-toned red fruit aromas of strawberries, cherries, huckleberry, toffee cedar and vanilla. Then it's a pleasing entry of cherries and strawberries beside a tannin structure which adds but doesn't overwhelm. It trails into a finish of mocha.
Mannina Cellars
2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Sangiovese
Walla Walla Valley, 322 cases, 14.1% alc., $22
Outstanding! Don Redman opened his boutique winery in 2004, and this marks the fourth bottling spotlighting this Italian variety. His Sicilian grandmother, Rose, would be proud. It makes you sit up and pay attention with complex aromas of pie cherries, blackberry, dried strawberry, cherry cola, tar, allspice and Italian parsley. Anticipation is fulfilled on the palate, which is approachable and lively with sweet cherries and chocolate, and the fruit carries into the finish.
Grenache
Abacela Vineyards & Winery
2007 Estate Garnacha
Umpqua Valley, 166 cases, 14.4% alc., $22
Excellent. Earl Jones defers to the Spanish spelling, but this Rhone variety otherwise known as Grenache excels in these Fault Line Vineyards. It's upfront with red and purple fruit tones such as pomegranate, cherries and blueberry, backed by cola and cedar. Inside, its hallmark is the precocious acidity and youthful structure from that same fruit that will pair nicely with cedar-planked Copper River salmon and lemon.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Grenache
Horse Heaven Hills, 171 cases, 14.3% alc., $32
Excellent. The profile of cherries, tobacco, cedar, cinnamon and bittersweet chocolate conjures up thoughts of sliding into a leather upholstered booth in the cigar lounge at Portland's El Gaucho steak house. This drink's lively structure and inviting citrusy acidity will reward a sizzling ribeye.
Other reds
Abacela Vineyards & Winery
2007 Estate Dolcetto
Southern Oregon, 236 cases, 13.6% alc., $20
Recommended. Blueberry, cherry juice, plums, blackberry, cranberry and cola tones all are easily detected, thanks to this lively little Italian grape. Suggested fare includes herb-crusted rotisserie chicken with a cranberry demi glaze.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Block 20 Malbec
Horse Heaven Hills, 168 cases, 14.1% alc., $32
Recommended. Bright red fruit notes of raspberry, pie cherries and boysenberry provide food-friendly tartness rather than tannin with accents of dried strawberry, cedar and saddle leather.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard
Mr. Big Petite Sirah
Horse Heaven Hills, 67 cases, 14.5% alc., $42
Outstanding! Jarrod Boyle furthers this appellation's track record with this grape on his first go-round. There's an instant appeal with plump brambleberries, chocolate and espresso aromas. It carries into opulence on the palate with more blackberries and raspberries, delicious acidity and a lengthy finish of chocolaty tannins.
DiStefano Winery
2006 Petit Verdot
Columbia Valley, 113 cases, 14.7% alc., $23
Excellent. There's nothing petite but a lot of pleasure within this release by Woodinville's Hillary Sjolund. Whiffs of boysenberry syrup, plums, cherries, vanilla bean, nutmeg, coffee, cigar leaf and cedar evolve into a delicious structure. It's oozing blackberry pie, allspice and toast, topped with nicely managed tannins.
Dry Falls Cellars
2008 Cinsault
Wahluke Slope, 80 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Outstanding! For the second straight vintage, this tiny family operation in Moses Lake earns our top rating with this Rhone variety off Rosebud Vineyard. Delicate and nubile describe its perfume of sensuous strawberries, plump blueberries, satiny raspberry and moist forest floor. It saunters onto the palate similar to a fresh and fruity Pinot Noir, seductive with those same fruits, then joined in the midpalate by cherry pie and a bit of tartness in the farewell.
Dry Falls Cellars
2008 Malbec
Wahluke Slope, 110 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Excellent. It's a short drive from Moses Lake to Mattawa for Jim Englar, which is a good thing considering he lives and works in Boise. An affinity for oak shows in this release, starting with aromas of vanilla bean, French-roast coffee and black cherry. Dark strawberries and cherries battle each other on the palate before giving way to bittersweet chocolate, more coffee, tomato paste and some tannins that will marry well with a blackened steak.
Fidelitas Wines
2006 Malbec
Columbia Valley, 245 cases, 14.1% alc., $35
Excellent. Charlie Hoppes is one of Washington's big champions for this lesser-known Bordeaux variety, and here's a glimpse into the intense grape's future with fruit from Conner-Lee and Stillwater Creek - sites not far from Othello. Dark strawberries, blueberries, molasses, vanilla cream and caraway seed aromas guide into opulent flavors of plums and raspberries, framed by judicious use of oak and blueberry acidity and approachable tannins.
Marchesi Vineyards
2007 Achille Barbera
Columbia Valley, 160 cases, 14.5% alc., $27
Recommended. Franco Marchesi grew up in the Piedmont region of Italy, so he knows this variety, which he began planting in 2003 in an abandoned Hood River orchard. Here's a lively berry bomb offering from Klickitat County vines loaded with juicy boysenberry, blueberry and cherry tones akin to Hawaiian Punch.
McKinley Springs Winery
2006 Malbec
Horse Heaven Hills, 215 cases, 14.8% alc., $22
Recommended. There's a growing buzz about this lesser-known Bordeaux variety, and here's one of the least expensive bottlings you'll find. It's intense in the aromas of black cherry, plum, tar, cola and mint. Sweet plums and blackberries follow through on the palate with crushed mint leaf in the finish.
Olympic Cellars
2007 Dungeness Red Champoux Lemberger
Horse Heaven Hills, 320 cases, 14.4% alc., $18
Outstanding! Winery founder Gene Neuharth began sourcing fruit from this site nearly 30 years ago, and this is the second straight year for winemaker Benoit Murat to earn our top rating with this heritage series release. Pomegranate, black cherry, blueberry, vanilla, saddle leather and teriyaki aromas don't belie the zesty, food-friendly drink. There's staying power on the palate with cherry and blackberry, while chocolate and anise usher you to the finish. The structure is focused on acidity, not tannin. Suggested pairings include grilled salmon or halibut.
Otis Kenyon
2006 Carmenere
Horse Heaven Hills, 105 cases, 14.3% alc., $36
Excellent. Don't get used to finding this unusual wine because subsequent vintages will be allocated to club members of this winery in Milton-Freewater, Ore. Dick Beightol's Phinney Hill site grows this "lost Bordeaux" variety, and Dave Stephenson spins it into something remarkable. Every time you pick it up, something new will unveil itself, starting with aromas of plums and blueberries, lavender, cedar, pizza spices, cola and Ethiopian coffee. It turns to red fruit on the palate with tart cherries, lively acidity, crushed oregano and cracked black pepper, a package that seems destined for a stuffed green pepper, meatloaf or a Mexican mole dish.
Thurston Wolfe
2007 Zephyr Ridge Petite Sirah
Washington, 450 cases, 14.6% alc., $23
Excellent. Time flies when you are having fun, and this is the sixth vintage for this variety out of this renowned Prosser, Wash., winery. Opulent oak aromas of chocolate, vanilla bean, coffee and leather share the spotlight with cherries. Bold cherries land softly on the palate with vanilla extract, chased by horehound and mint before tannins emerge. It's more quaffable than most its age, which speaks to its maker.
Wapato Point Cellars
2007 Malbec
Columbia Valley, 422 cases, 13.8% alc., $28
Recommended. Lake Chelan winemaker Jonathan Kludt turns the intensity provided by this thin-skinned grape into a drink filled with blueberries, sweetened pie cherries and minced spearmint. Firm tannins will reward those visiting the Winemaker's Grill across the hall who request one of chef Sean Akin's dry-aged steaks.
Red blends
Abacela Vineyards & Winery
NV Vintner's Blend #10 Red Table Wine
Southern Oregon, 2,016 cases, 13.3% alc., $16
Excellent. Andrew Wenzl sourced throughout six vineyards - including Earl Jones' ever-expanding estate - for a blend of 14 varieties that leads with Tempranillo. It's a wild undertaking, but the continued success shows with an opening of plums, pomegranate, cranberry, blackberries, Bing cherries, fig, milk chocolate and violets. Toss in some boysenberry on the full-flavored palate that shows black licorice in the finish. Holiday fare will fare well.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard
Members Only Red Wine
Horse Heaven Hills, 147 cases, 14.6% alc., $38
Excellent. The winning blend arrived at via a competition among wine club members shows off accents of boysenberries, cherries, molasses and tobacco wrapped in good acidity and a really long finish of blueberries and tar.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyards
Quarry Butte Red Wine
Horse Heaven Hills, 168 cases, 14.6% alc., $20
Outstanding! Prosser product Jarrod Boyle readily hands off credit achieved by his successful program to the promise of his 260-acre vineyard, but he definitely knows how to stitch together blends. Strawberry, raspberry, chocolate, cedar, almond and toasted wheat aromas transcend into a plush and creamy entry of black cherries, vanilla extract and crushed walnut. The structure achieves great balance with a nice grip of chocolate tannin.
Apolloni Vineyards
2007 Conti di Val Seriana Soleggio
Columbia Valley, 237 cases, 13.9% alc., $27
Recommended. This Super-Tuscan style taps into one of Washington's primo spots for Sangiovese - Candy Mountain, which neighbors Red Mountain - and the Walla Walla Valley's Nicholas Cole, as well as Pepper Bridge for the Cab (37%) and Merlot (10%). The result is focused on canned pie cherries, pomegranate, figs, smoky blueberries, white peppercorns and bittersweet chocolate. There's a wealth of tannin to go along for the ride, or enjoy now with smoked duck breast accompanied by a berry compote.
Ash Hollow
2007 Headless Red
Walla Walla Valley, 370 cases, 14.1% alc., $18
Recommended. These folks had fun on Oct. 31, going with Ash Holloween in its promotion of their blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot. However, they'd sold through it by September. Indeed, it's a rather haunting drink of cordial cherries, white strawberry, golden raisins, lavender, chocolate, molasses, black pepper and dried Italian parsley. There's a bite of tannin and a trickle of viscosity, too, adding to its intrigue.
Bitner Vineyards
2006 Merlot/Petit Verdot
Snake River Valley, 72 cases, 14.1% alc., $22
Excellent. Longtime grower Ron Bitner and winemaker Greg Koenig team up again to produce 60/40 blend that opens with pie cherry, cedar and graphite aromas. Blackberry leads on the palate, followed by more sour cherries, making for delicious balance and an ideal mate for lasagna slathered in a rich meat sauce.
Bitner Vineyards
2006 Reserve Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon
Snake River Valley, 95 cases, 14.1% alc., $30
Excellent. Ron Bitner has devoted several months each year to bee research in Australia, times reflected in the naming of this 66/34 blend. The Syrah component helps account for the aromas of blueberry and plum, backed by notes of lavender, teriyaki and minerality. Juicy blueberries re-emerge in the mouth, joined by cherries, chocolate, chalkboard dust, tar and green peppercorns. Enjoy this with teriyaki beef that includes green beans.
Bunchgrass Winery
2006 Triolet Red Wine
Walla Walla Valley,117 cases, 14.3% alc., $28
Excellent. The folks at Walla Walla Vintners, particularly young winemaker William von Metzger, along with Abeja innkeeper Tom Olander revived this charming project west of Walla Walla. Minnick Hills Vineyard fills the majority of this blending of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Petit Verdot. It's richly loaded with black cherries and blueberries, accented by crushed leaf, and woven together by chocolaty tannins before trailing off to dried strawberry.
Col Solare
2006 Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 10,000 cases, 14.5% alc., $75
Excellent. Here's the first wine made in their showpiece facility on Red Mountain, and - as usual - winemaker Marcus Notaro got his pick of lots from nine vineyards in four appellations. He arrived at Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), backed by Merlot (19%), Cabernet Franc (4%), Petit Verdot (3%) and Syrah to produce plummy aromas with boysenberry, vanilla, espresso, leather and malted milk balls. It's an easy entry of Bing cherries, pomegranate and boysenberry flavors, giving it shiny acidity to play with the taut tannin structure. A flourish of marionberry in the finish bodes well for braised meats.
Des Voigne Cellars
2007 The Duke Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 239 cases, 14.8% alc., $28
Excellent. A few of Washington's most prized vineyards - Les Collines, Zephyr Ridge, Kiona and Stillwater Creek - fill this Zinfandel-based tribute to Duke Ellington. Blueberries, black cherries, strawberry fruit leather, chocolate and eucalyptus aromas play a strong tune of more blueberries and blackberries. Zesty acidity tickles the palate, and its Dr Pepper notes bring down the call. Darren Des Voigne suggests dropping the needle on Ramsey Lewis' At The Bohemian Caverns while sitting down with.
DiStefano Winery
2005 Domenica Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 585 cases, 14.9% alc., $28
Recommended. This Merlot-led blend of Bordeaux varieties is extremely expressive in the nose that hints at sweetness with notes of cordial cherries, malted milk balls, brown sugar, crushed leaf and cedar. However, it's plummy, cherry and tasty with lively tannins and late acidity.
Fidelitas Wines
2006 Boushey Vineyard Red Wine
Yakima Valley, 315 cases, 14.8% alc., $50
Excellent. In 1980, Dick Boushey began planting his vineyard in Grandview, Wash., and this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), Merlot (29%) and Cabernet Franc receives a warm embrace from 75% new oak. Blueberry, Ovaltine, vanilla creme, smoke and tar aromas drop into a nicely balanced drink of blueberries and black cherry with notes of charcoal and more tar in the background.
Fidelitas Wines
2006 Optu Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 800 cases, 14.9% alc., $40
Outstanding! Derived from the Latin word for "best," optu fit as this Red Mountain winery's blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (68%), Merlot (23%) and Cabernet Franc hails from six premier sites - Champoux, Kiona, Weinbau, Stillwater Creek, Conner-Lee and Boushey. It's charming from front to back and head to toe, starting with blueberries, raspberries, vanilla cream, chocolate cake and light oak spice. Mouthfilling and smooth notes of more brambleberries and blueberries include plums. The structure is graceful and sophisticated with a cigar lounge leather chair sitting off in the corner.
Frenchman Hills Winery
2005 Sentinel Gap Vineyards Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 1,610 cases, 15% alc., $27
Recommended. This operation near Royal City, Wash., names this for the geologic formation near Mattawa, Wash., created by the Columbia River and carved by the Ice Age floods. Here's a straight-forward blend of Merlot (51%), Cab (34%) and Syrah that features cherry jam, dried strawberry, raspberry and tobacco. Lively acidity gives way to a finish of Red Hot candy.
Glencorrie Winery
2006 Cuvee Marquis
Columbia Valley, 192 cases, 14.7% alc., $45
Outstanding! The Coldiron family wisely retained Charlie Hoppes to make these first wines for their new Walla Walla operation. Fruit from Weinbau, Stillwater Creek, Gamache and Goose Ridge vineyards filled eight barrels, and the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (20%) and Malbec is topped with aromas of raspberry, strawberry, plum, orange zest, milk chocolate, vanilla, chalkboard dust, cedar, coffee and black olive. Those are mirrored on the palate in a dark and creamy approach as cherries, plums and coffee pop out in a supremely balanced structure.
Karma Vineyards
2007 Zen Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 399 cases, 13.8% alc., $40
Outstanding! Ray Sandidge works primarily on the north shore of Lake Chelan, but here's a client on the south shore. This blend of Rhone varieties - Syrah (60%), Grenache (27%) and Mourvedre - shows off hints of cherry cobbler, boysenberry, smoked game meat, bacon and cedar. It follows through on the palate in a manner so jammy with blackberries and cherries that you want to slather it on toast. Instead, serve it with lamb shanks or braised ribs.
Karma Vineyards
2007 Try Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 300 cases, 13.8% alc., $30
Excellent. One of the best spots to enjoy food and wine in the new Lake Chelan AVA is this small family-owned operation. The melding of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Malbec (30%) and Merlot makes for aromas of pie cherry, cedar, sandalwood, cigar leaf and cracked green peppercorns. Pie cherries continue onto the palate with a burst of blackberry and a trail of anise and saddle leather.
Lone Canary
2005 DuBrul Vineyard Reserve
Yakima Valley, 195 cases, 14.4% alc., $35
Recommended. Few folks get their hands on fruit from this cult vineyard in Outlook, Wash. This Spokane winery led with Merlot (66%) and followed with Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) for a drink that's opulent with blueberries, black cherries, blackberry, French roast coffee and maple nut. Drink now for optimum enjoyment.
Mannina Cellars
2007 Cali Red Wine
Walla Walla Valley, 982 cases, 14.2% alc., $17
Recommended. Don Redman includes a bit of Sangiovese into this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (51%) and Merlot (42%), the third vintage of this wine named after his grandmother. She's a sweetie, too, opening with a can of homemade blackberry preserves, plums and cherries on the chocolaty midpalate, then finished with nice tar and dried strawberries.
Northwest Cellars
2006 Intrigue Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 528 cases, 13.8% alc., $28
Excellent. Early on, Bob Delf's operation in Kirkland, Wash., made its name with personalized labels, but the wines soon became serious. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (51%), Syrah (22%), Pinot Noir (18%) and Carmenere is eclectic and enthralling, starting with blackberry, boysenberry and a slice of green bell pepper as well as coffee. Big blue fruit streams in and stretches across the juicy palate with French oak accents and chocolaty tannin.
Northwest Totem Cellars
2006 Potlach Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 13.6% alc., $30
Excellent. This marks just the second vintage of red-wine production by Mike Sharadin, and he excelled with this blend of Syrah (52%), Tempranillo (45%) and Petit Verdot. Richness emerges early with blackberries, canned plums, lilac, cinnamon and green peppercorn aromas, followed by the same dark fruit on the palate. Boysenberries add midpalate acidity, and the tannins ride along in the back seat.
Okanogan Estate & Vineyards
2005 Bench Rock Red Wine
Washington, 500 cases, 13.9% alc., $20
Recommended. Vineyards just south of the U.S./Canadian border build this bold blend that features notes of cherry, root beer, oregano, chalkboard dust, smoky cedar and bittersweet chocolate. Pair this up with well-marbled meats or hearty stews.
Otis Kenyon Wines
2007 Matchless Red
Walla Walla Valley, 797 cases, 14.4% alc., $23
Excellent. Dave Stephenson is a behind-the-scenes veteran in the valley, and he's cast out this blend of Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from Seven Hills and Lodmell vineyards that can match proprietary blends from neighboring wineries charging twice the price. The nose shows no skimping on the oak with cherries, pomegranate, moist earth and cedar fighting for attention. Drink down raspberry jam flavors with cherry, rhubarb and cocoa powder catching up, whisked along by food-friendly acidity and some brambleberry seed tannin. Enjoy with rich tomato-based meat sauces.
Pirouette
2006 Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 1,733 cases, 14.6% alc., $55
Excellent. While the other programs at Long Shadows focus on one internationally famous winemaker, this project revolves around two principals - Agustin Huneeus, Sr., and Philippe Melka. The tandem decided on a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Merlot (20%) Petit Verdot (15%), Cabernet Franc (6%) and Syrah from throughout the Columbia Valley, including Dionysus, Sagemoor and Wallula vineyards. What emerges are aromas of black cherries, cola, mint/chocolate chip ice cream, black pepper and toasted oak. The drink itself is of blueberries and cream with milk chocolaty tannins.
Pleasant Hill Cellars
2006 Alegria Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 94 cases, 14.6% alc., $24
Recommended. This husband-and-wife winery in Carnation, Wash., continues to spin out tasty little blending lots as if they were solving a Rubik's Cube. Malbec (31%), Sangiovese (31%), Merlot (26%) and Petit Verdot get worked out to a theme of plums and Chukar Cherries, accented by heavy toasted, pie cherry acidity and chewy tannins that will soften in two to three years.
Pleasant Hill Cellars
2006 Donatella Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 96 cases, 14.7% alc., $26
Outstanding! Larry Lindvig loves to focus on blends and tiny lots. And in our eyes, he continues to succeed. His Super Tuscan style from the Yakima Valley incorporates Sangiovese (37%) from Snipes Canyon, both Cab (25%) and Merlot (25%) from Elephant Mountain, and Malbec (13%) from the Gilbert clan. Rich oak aromas fall in behind a wealth of black cherry, blueberry, strawberry fruit leather, along with mint, eucalyptus and tar. It's black and muscular in the mouth with warm oak, yet there's ample acidity and more mint in the finish. He offers it to tasting room visitors and pairs it his appetizer featuring garlic, sun-dried tomatoes and feta.
Pleasant Hill Cellars
NV Panache Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 77 cases, 14.8% alc., $22
Outstanding! An alumni of the Boeing Wine Club, Larry Lindvig indeed has a flair for blending. In this case, it's ruled by Rhone varieties Syrah (45%), Mourvedre (25%) and Grenache (22%) with a feathery touch of Merlot (4%) and Tempranillo. It's kid stuff with Milk Dud and Hostess cherry pie aromas, then reaches adulthood with smooth flavors of cherries and blueberries, backed by well-managed tannins.
Pleasant Hill Cellars
2006 Renaissance II Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 95 cases, 15% alc., $24
Recommended. Lemberger from a vineyard planted in Prosser, Wash., by legendary grape researcher George Carter makes up a quarter of this blend, which is equal parts Tempranillo, Merlot and Syrah. The Lemberger and Syrah account for the sweetness inside its jammy profile of black cherries, plums and blackberries. Tarry and charry oak fill in the corners.
Pleasant Hill Cellars
2007 Roadhouse Red
Columbia Valley, 95 cases, 14.7% alc., $20
Recommended. One can almost envision stepping into a roadhouse as aromas feature a Swisher Sweet cigar along with strawberry, blueberry, rose hips, milk chocolate and black pepper. It's a straight-shooter too with easy-going and long flavors of blueberries, plums, vanilla cream and more pepper.
Pleasant Hill Cellars
2006 Ultimo Grande
Columbia Valley, 92 cases, 14.8% alc., $26
Recommended. This formula is basically Bordeaux-based (Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot) with some Tempranillo (25%). It's full of boysenberries, loganberries and cherries and backed by Baker's chocolate and bold tannins.
Rio Vista Wines
2007 Estate Loony Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 14.2% alc., $25
Recommended. This vintage marks the third commercial release by self-taught Chelan-area winemaker John Little. His blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc is a showy one, starting with hints of loganberry, plum, boysenberry, currant, river rock, rose hips and wood smoke. It's dark and juicy with black cherries and boysenberry, finished by chocolate and chalky tannins. Here's another one to watch in two to three years.
C.R. Sandidge Wines
2006 Stone Tree Red
Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 14.1% alc., $39
Excellent. Wenatchee Valley native Ray Sandidge has a special touch with Rhone varieties, and this blend carries some showy oak as pie cherry and lingonberry aromas are joined by Godiva chocolate, vanilla extract and candela tobacco. Sweet raspberry and cherry extract swarm the tongue in a very juicy fashion with nice acidity, finished by more expensive chocolate.
C.R. Sandidge Wines
2004 Tri*Umph Red Wine
Yakima Valley, 300 cases, 13% alc., $50
Excellent. Chocolate-covered cherry aromas include cinnamon, nutmeg, pencil shavings and turmeric. They funnel into flavors that continue the creamy chocolate and cherry theme, braced by acidity that grudgingly gives way to some pleasing grip of tannin in the finish. Ray Sandidge predicts a life of eight to 10 years, and the relative absence of alcohol may well reward such patience.
Second Crossing
2007 Long Creek Red
Okanagan Valley, 300 cases, 14.9% alc., $18 CDN
Recommended. Twisted Tree Winery in Osoyoos, B.C., succeeds with this second-label blend of Tannat (42%), Malbec (22%), Tempranillo (14%), Merlot (14%) and Carmenere. It's jacked up with raspberry and red currant aromas, which are met with tobacco, saddle leather, moist earth and cedar. What's in store is a full-bodied structure of strawberry freezer jam, dried cherries and pomegranate with bright acidity. Late tannin will sidle up to a lean cut of beef such as flank steak.
Sweet Valley Wines
2007 Double Barrel Red Wine
Walla Walla Valley, 537 cases, 15.4% alc., $20
Excellent. Josh McDaniel's double-barrel blast of Cabernet Sauvignon (48%) and Merlot (48%) includes a splash of Syrah, and the sources are rather illustrious - including Pepper Bridge, Les Collines and Seven Hills. Aromas conjure up thoughts of boysenberries, a powdered bismarck pastry filled with jam, currant liqueur and toasted almonds. The tasty drink profiles blueberry, raspberry and currant juice with a tug of tannin in the finish.
3 Horse Ranch Vineyards
2007 Reserve Cab-Merlot
Snake River Valley, 1,157 cases, 14.2% alc., $22
Recommended. Gary Cunningham's young operation north of Eagle, Idaho, will soon transition to organic estate fruit for its red program. Meanwhile, this blend showcases plump blueberries, boysenberries and canned cherries to go with mature barrel tones of milk chocolate and fresh-brewed coffee. There's enjoyable chewiness and tongue-smacking tartness to pair with a plate of Beef Bourguignon.
Thirsty Pagans
2005 Communion Red Wine
Horse Heaven Hills, 250 cases, 14.2% alc., $26
Outstanding! Alder Ridge winemaker Rob Chowanietz and his wife, Jeanie Inglis, hatched their own label that is creating happy heathens. Sweet oak tones play out in this berry bomb of blackberry, blueberry and cassis. The body of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), Merlot (15%), Malbec (5%) and Petit Verdot is creamy and smooth with a rather hedonistic finish of chocolate and more berries. It is available via mailing list.
Whites
Chardonnay
Cassini Cellars
2008 Reserve Chardonnay
Okanagan Valley, 290 cases, 14.4% alc., $25 CDN
Excellent. A newcomer to the Golden Mile in Oliver, B.C., Romanian-born Adrian Capeneata shows a continuing commitment to quality. It's exceedingly expressive, starting with early aromas of Red Delicious apple, mango, pineapple, pears, Thompson seedless grape that are backed by buttered pretzel and caramel from the oak influence. That French oak shows more on the palate with honey and lemon. It's lovely and long on the back end with butterscotch, and it should go well with a light curry, prawns in a spicy coconut sauce or Thai-style halibut.
Cathedral Ridge Winery
2007 McDuffee Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 14.6% alc., $36
Recommended. A 25-year-old site near The Dalles, Ore., produced the fruit for the first reserve Chardonnay for our 2007 Oregon Winery of the Year, and its two years spent in barrel doesn't overpower delicate aromas of verbena, lilac, coconut milk and butterscotch. It's oh-so-creamy on the palate with notes of coconut cream pie, lemon custard, caramel corn and butterscotch throughout. There's a lot of oak showing, but there's nice underlying acidity running all along.
Covey Run Winery
2006 Reserve Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 5,175 cases, 14.1% alc., $10
Recommended. This tasting reserve-level Chardonnay is a steal at twice the price. It opens with notes of orchard fruit, leading with sweet pears, and pineapple funnel into a reserve-style structure showing vanilla, butterscotch and balance.
Gilbert Cellars
2008 Unoaked Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 374 cases, 13.2% alc., $17
Recommended. Four Feathers Vineyard, which is adjacent to sultry Cold Creek Vineyard overlooking the Columbia River north of the Yakima Valley and south of the Wahluke Slope, takes the lead in this fruit-forward drink from Yakima. Pear notes, along with dusty apples, jasmine, rose petal and a hint of blueberry dominate this deliciously dry Chardonnay that benefits from a squirt of grapefruit acidity in the finish.
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards
2008 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 13.7% alc., $16
Excellent. Jeff and Vicki Gordon's 100-acre site makes them among the family estate wineries in Washington, exemplified by the scale of this release. It's done a bit in a reserve-style with fruit from new and a year-old barrels factoring into a stainless-steel program for an alluring nose of apple, pear, orange blossom, banana, pineapple, lemon yogurt and sandalwood. That lemon yogurt gets spooned on the tongue with toasted oak tones, but there's a persistent acidity that slides along into a finish of butterscotch candy. The Gordons suggest a plating of chicken roasted with citrus and sage.
Karma Vineyards
2007 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 248 cases, 14.2% alc., $23
Recommended. This product of Smasne Vineyard in the Yakima Valley features a reserve style full of toasted oak, vanilla bean, butterscotch candy, apricots and a refreshing amount of lemony acidity. It's a tasty wine to enjoy on the deck of this Lake Chelan producer.
Kramer Vineyards
2006 Barrel Select Chardonnay
Yamhill-Carlton District, 100 cases, 14.6% alc., $20
Recommended. While it comes from a program featuring younger barrels, there's plenty behind the oak. The tones and rather soft structure includes grapefruit, quince, pear, river rock and lemons to go with the butterscotch and vanilla.
Lake Chelan Winery
2008 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 578 cases, 13.7% alc., $22
Recommended. This easy-drinking Chardonnay from a top Lake Chehlan AVA producer delivers accents of Red Delicious apple, pear butter, Breyer's French vanilla ice cream, coconut and butterscotch.
Olympic Cellars
2007 La Dolce Vida Champoux Vineyard Chardonnay
Horse Heaven Hills, 200 cases, 13.7% alc., $16
Recommended. Pineapple, butterscotch and heavily toasted oak aromas transcend to the palate with mouthfilling buttery notes. There's late acidity, a bit of pineapple core in the finish and lingering oak accents.
Redman Vineyard & Winery
2007 Chardonnay
Eola-Amity Hills, 200 cases, 12.7% alc., $22
Recommended. The Redmans drove to Crawford Beck Vineyard for this inviting drink that's unburdened by new oak and loaded with Gala apple, navel orange and spiced pears. Long-lasting lemony acidity invites a pairing with prawns sauteed in wine and garlic.
Vale Wine Co.
2008 Chardonnay
Snake River Valley, 135 cases, 13.6% alc., $16
Recommended. Asian pear, cotton candy and tangy orange notes fill the corners of this delicious fruit-forward drink by this new winery, which tapped into Polo Cove and Arena Valley vineyards.
Westport Winery
2008 Shorebird Chardonnay
Washington, 236 cases, 12% alc., $18
Recommended. it's a nicely straight-forward Chardonnay buoyed by Golden Delicious apple, Asian pear, apricot and lots of citrus to complement lemon chicken in a mushroom sauce.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2007 Dijon Clone Chardonnay
Willamette Valley, 1,508 cases, 13% alc., $18
Excellent. An incredible aromatic display includes pears, pineapple, apple sauce, melon and a squirt of citrus. Delicious tartness strikes the palate with more honeydew melon and Granny Smith apple. There's little evidence of the 10 months in French oak, and that makes for easy pairings with grilled halibut and seared scallops.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2007 Estate Vineyard Dijon Clones Chardonnay
Willamette Valley, 187 cases, 13% alc., $30
Recommended. Dijon clones 76 and 96 take center stage in this release from one of Oregon's largest producers, opening with pineapple, chalkboard dust and bees wax aromas. It's an expressive and juicy entry of mangoes and more pineapple. The butterscotch and creamy midpalate are followed by a touch of tannin.
Riesling
Elk Cove Vineyards
2007 Estate Riesling
Willamette Valley, 786 cases, 12% alc., $19
Excellent. At age 32, these vines rank among Oregon's oldest, and their crop load of 3 tons per acre yields brilliance. It leads with classic minerality and river rock aromas, backed by tropical fruit. On the attack, it's Granny Smith apple and Bosc pear, followed by Tropicana orange juice in the midpalate. The sweetness (1.7% residual sugar) dotes on the finish, joined by a slice of jicama. Enjoy with a Waldorf salad or fruit plate.
Girardet Wine Cellars
2007 Riesling
Umpqua Valley, 953 cases, 11.5% alc., $16
Excellent. Marc Girardet continues his father's tradition with a delicious off-dry (2.7%) drink that opens with aromas of melon, citrus and hints of butterscotch. Melon and orange keep coming on the palate with ample acidity and a finish of sliced Pink Lady apple. Enjoy alongside a fruit and cheese plate or Asian fare.
Love & Squalor
2008 Eola Hills Vineyard Riesling
Willamette Valley, 115 cases, 12.4% alc., $18
Recommended. Matt Berson's full-time job is assisting at the inspiring project that is Brooks Winery in Oregon's Eola-Amity Hills. However, he bought fruit from his boss - Chris Williams - for his own Portland Wine Co. Gala apple, lemon and facial powder tones highlight the structure of this relatively crisp and slightly off-dry Riesling, which comes in at 1.9% residual sugar.
Nk'Mip Cellars
2008 Winemaker Series Riesling
Okanagan Valley, 1,431 cases, 13.5% alc., $18 CDN
Excellent. A historically cool summer and violent July windstorm put a crimp on the Inkameep Vineyard near Oliver, but winemaker Randy Picton persevered nicely. This young Riesling casts out notes of fresh-cut Honeycrisp apple, apricot, pineapple, candy corn, lychee, cotton candy, celery leaf and lime zest. The palate is focused on mouthwatering yellow grapefruit, backed by more apples and rosewater, then finished with gooseberry and minerality.
Poet's Leap
2008 Riesling
Columbia Valley, 2,656 cases, 12.9% alc., $20
Recommended. Dionysus, Wallula and the Long Shadows Vintners' estate Sonnet sites make for an expressive drink loaded with Golden Delicious apple, Bartlett pear and grassy notes. Hints of slate and lime acidity keep the residual sugar (1.4%) in check.
Westport Winery
2008 Elk River Riesling
Washington, 270 cases, 11% alc., $22
Excellent. Coastal estate fruit produced delicious results for a second straight vintage for Dana Roberts. Aromas of lime, spiced apple and almond amble into generous flavors of grapefruit, figs, apple and enough lime acidity to balance the residual sugar (3%).
Pinot Gris
Blue Pirate
2008 Pinot Gris
Oregon, 5,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Recommended. Back in the day, bluebirds would pilfer filberts being delivered to the historic building that now houses this winery in Dundee, Ore. Hence, blue pirates. Orchard fruit, along with nutty oak, runs through this creamy drink of Dole pineapple, lemon curd and yellow grapefruit.
Elk Cove Vineyards
2008 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 14,200 cases, 13% alc., $19
Outstanding! Many in Oregon believe this vintage may rival the historic heights of 1999, and Adam Campbell's presentation of Pinot Gris appears as one of the first barometric readings. It's fruit-forward in the aromatics of tangerine and pineapple, joined by a perception of sweetness with candy corn, a beguiling puff of facial powder and some hints of barrel in almond extract. Prepare for an amazing explosion of blood orange and juicy apricot on the attack with a piece of Jolly Rancher green apple candy in the midpalate. What follows is a flourish to the finish with yellow grapefruit, a twist of lemon, a pinch of anise and banana. We can picture this with ceviche served at the Dundee Bistro.
Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery
2008 Optimum Pinot Gris
Okanagan Valley, 175 cases, 13.2% alc., $19 CDN
Recommended. Walter and Gordon Gehringer don't use oak in many of their wines, but this tier and this grape typically get a light treatment. Gooseberry, apple box and mineral aromas evolve into an entry of grapefruit, apricot and honeydew flavors, finished with apple skin and jasmine. It's backed by enjoyable tartness and acidity to play with food, especially fresh oysters.
King Estate
2008 Signature Collection Pinot Gris
Oregon, 71,000 cases, 13% alc., $16
Outstanding! The Kings of Eugene also serve as international ambassadors for this grape. After 16 years of producing the variety, they label this as their "signature" style of winemaker John Albin. Complexity shows in the aromas of Asian pear, peach, gooseberry, apple blossom and lemon custard. Pear notes follow through to the drink, which features a delicious midpalate of blood orange, and yellow grapefruit shines through the five months of sur lie aging. That racy citrus acidity makes for a tremendous finish and thoughts of chicken Alfredo.
Kramer Vineyards
2007 Kimberly's Reserve Pinot Gris
Yamhill-Carlton District, 150 cases, 13% alc., $18
Excellent. Even those who might not care for oak in their Pinot Gris can appreciate this offering that opens with vanilla, lemon, kumquat and apples. It's a crowd pleaser on the palate with sweet apples and vanilla as lemony acidity builds along the way. Toasty oak returns in the finish of this wine named after Trudy's daughter, who now serves as co-winemaker.
Maysara Winery
2008 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 1,100 cases, 12.5% alc., $16
Excellent. This family operation in McMinnville, Ore., continues to excel with this variety. Apple blossom, pears, lemon, jasmine and butterscotch aromas fall into a tropical fruit entry of pineapple and passion fruit. Pear in the midpalate and citrusy acidity make this easy to come back to.
Pend d'Oreille Winery
2008 Pinot Gris
Washington, 450 cases, 13.7% alc., $15
Recommended. Columbia Valley fruit goes to the Idaho Panhandle, where it's transformed into an offering of tropical fruit aromas backed by pineapple, bubble gum, butterscotch and river rock. Kumquat and Granny Smith flavors make for a tart approach and an ideal foil for creamy lemon chicken.
Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery
2008 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 900 cases, 13% alc., $16
Excellent. The harvest on Oct. 18 at Stone Ridge Vineyard in West Linn seems well-timed. Grapefruit, pineapple and candy corn aromas pop up through barrel notes of sandalwood and torched caramel. Barrel fermenting brings about a rich entry of peaches and pink grapefruit, backed by lemony acidity and finished with butterscotch candy.
Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc
Dry Falls Cellars
2008 Semillon Traditionelle
Wahluke Slope, 60 cases, 14.8% alc., $18
Recommended. Grapes off one the Slope's oldest sites - Rosebud Vineyard - went to this small winery at the old Moses Lake airport. Aromas of pineapple, pears, starfruit and citrus turn tropical on the palate. The finish of figs and late acidity make this particularly memorable.
Fidelitas Wines
2007 Semillon
Columbia Valley, 583 cases, 14.3% alc., $20
Recommended. Sur lie aging in French oak produces aromas of almond butter, apples, citrus and mint, followed by lengthy flavors of orange/vanilla ice cream and a late dose of lemon/lime acidity. Suggested pairings include oysters, scallops, white fish and chicken dishes.
DiStefano Winery
2008 Sauvignon Blanc
Columbia Valley, 1,200 cases, 14.2% alc., $18
Excellent. Mark Newton's winery in Woodinville, Wash., has long embraced this white Bordeaux variety, and winemaker Hillary Sjolund carries the tradition, using Semillon (8%) as a blender. Inviting aromas of fruit cocktail include Mandarin orange, tangerine, lime, minerality and a slice of celery. Lots of lime awaits you on the palate with notes of slate, fresh pineapple sweetness, Granny Smith apple tartness and a slice of starfruit. Serve it cold for refreshment or pair it with Pacific Ocean seafood and shellfish.
Spangler Vineyards
2008 Sauvignon Blanc
Southern Oregon, 185 cases, 13.7% alc., $18.
Recommended. This profile of lime, gooseberry, jasmine, celery leaf, muscat and bold acidity will find a delicious match with oysters on the half shell.
Viognier
Lake Chelan Winery
2008 Viognier
Columbia Valley, 300 cases, 13.8% alc., $24
Excellent. Ray Sandidge raised the bar at Yakima Valley wineries Hyatt and Kestrel before returning to his roots near Entiat, Wash. His clients also include this family friendly winery in Chelan, and his successes continue. Aromas of orange peel, marshmallow, lemon pepper and allspice include whiffs of smoke, eucalyptus oil and wintergreen. It's passionfruit, mango and canteloupe when it comes to flavors with lime crispness throughout. We can envision pairing this with perch or fried catfish.
Sweet Valley Wines
2008 Viognier
Columbia Valley, 98 cases, 13.6% alc., $18
Excellent. Fruit from McKinley Springs in the Horse Heaven Hills and Markham-Banks Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley (25%) join forces to produce aromas of apples, pears, Bananas Foster, apple blossoms and light toast. There's a repeat of that flaming dessert on the palate with a hint of maple sweetness, nuttiness and peppermint in the finish.
Gewurztraminer
Cor Cellars
2008 Celilo Vineyard Alba Cor White Wine
Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 13% alc., $18
Recommended. Luke Bradford trained at nearby Wind River and Syncline before launching his own winery near Lyle, Wash. This screwcap offering of Pinot Gris (52%) and Gewurztra-miner releases notes of apple crisp, pear, pineapple, a hint of blackberry and gooseberry tartness.
Westport Winery
2008 Captain Grey's Gewurztraminer
Washington, 280 cases, 11% alc., $24
Recommended. Aromas of grapefruit and banana with hints of honey and lamb's wool turn into more banana, sweetened grapefruit and Jones Lemon/Lime soda. It leans toward the soft side, so serve it chilled.
Pinot Blanc
Elk Cove Vineyards
2008 Pinot Blanc
Willamette Valley, 1,190 cases, 13% alc., $19
Excellent. Few show such dedication to this quiet descendant of Pinot Noir. It's indeed a subtle nose of apple, starfruit, pineapple, orange zest and lemon pepper. The pace quickens on the palate with tart apple, Asian pear and yellow grapefruit. Serve alongside white fish or coq au vin.
Maysara Winery
2008 Pinot Blanc
McMinnville, 200 cases, 12% alc., $17
Excellent. This vintage marked the 10th anniversary of the estate Momtazi vineyard and is believed to be the first Demeter certified bio-dynamic wine in the Northwest. Its nose is full of lychee, jasmine, dried pineapple, cotton candy and lemon zest. The rather lively palate features pears and Golden Delicious apples on the attack, pineapple in the midpalate and lots of lemons and orange in the finish.
Nk'Mip Cellars
2008 Pinot Blanc
Okanagan Valley, 2,786 cases, 13.5% alc., $17 CDN
Recommended. Floral aromas include dusty apple, starfruit, gooseberry, vanilla and freshly peeled potato skins. Then, it explodes in the mouth with more orchard fruit and pungent lime acidity, touched by river rock in the lengthy finish.
Other whites
San Juan Vineyards
2008 Estate Madeleine Angevine
Puget Sound, 583 cases, 11.2% alc., $17
Excellent. Three acres of island fruit make up one of the largest productions of this variety in the Northwest. The cross of Madeleine Royale and Precoce de Malingre spins out Riesling-like aromas of jasmine, Golden Delicious apple, pear and lemon, along with rose petal facial power, jicama and orange peel. It's quite brash with its big and juicy entry of yellow grapefruit and lemon, backed by honeydew melon. Enjoy with oysters on the half shell.
Westport Winery
2008 Maritime Muscat
Washington, 208 cases, 12% alc., $22
Excellent. This Washington coast operation has Muscat of Norway plantings maturing, but this bottling shows skill with mature fruit. There's a medley of citrus, jasmine, Williams Lectric Shave and minerality in the aromas. It's Juicy Fruit gum and more grapefruit on the soft entry, with mint, pineapple and lemon zest in the finish to balance the residual sugar (4%).
White blends
Anne Amie Vineyards
2008 Amrita Cuvee
Willamette Valley, 1,054 cases, 13.2% alc., $16
Outstanding! Its name is a Buddhist reference to ambrosia, and there's a sense of paradise in this blending of Pinot Gris (19%), Muller-Thurgau (18%), Pinot Blanc (17%), Chardonnay (17%), Gewurztraminer (15%) and Viognier (14%). Pink grapefruit, Pink Lady apple, jasmine, banana and facial powder accents only begin to describe the ins and outs. It's beautiful and balanced (0.5%) with mouthwatering acidity. Enjoy with Lamb Vindaloo or offer it with a plate of fruit and Camembert cheese.
Blackwood Lane
2008 Vicuna Blanca White Wine
Okanagan Valley, 210 cases, 12.8% alc., $19 CDN
Recommended. This blend leads with Pinot Gris (78%) - backed by Riesling (18%), Chenin Blanc (2%) and Gewurztraminer (2%) - and is meant to be enjoyed as a patio companion. And while it's deliciously juicy with citrus and Granny Smith apple, it also made us ponder pairings with bouillabaisse or ceviche.
Chelan Estate Vineyards & Winery
2007 Chardonnay-Viognier
Columbia Valley, 350 casaes, 12% alc., $22
Recommended. Because the fruit comes from outside the Lake Chelan AVA, the next vintage of this wine will be under a new label - CE Vineyards. This vintage is tasty with notes of Romeo apples, lemony citrus, potato peel and pineapple in a soft structure.
Fidelitas Wines
2008 Optu White Wine
Columbia Valley, 355 cases, 14.2% alc., $32
Excellent. The prized white in Charlie Hoppes' portfolio is a blend of Bordeaux varieties Sauvignon Blanc (56%) off Gamache Vineyard and Semillon from Stillwater Creek. Dusty orange, lemon/lime and jicama aromas carry into a flavors of yellow grapefruit and rosewater.
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards
2008 Edelzwicker White Wine
Columbia Valley, 225 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Excellent. Judy Phelps' delightful off-dry German-style blend of Riesling and Gewurztraminer opens with a bouquet of spicy Asian pear, Granny Smith apple, minerality and a hint of seltzer. There's an early hit of sugared yellow grapefruit on the palate, followed by passionfruit, jasmine, banana and apple sauce, then polished a touch of wintergreen.
LaStella Winery
2008 Leggiero
Okanagan Valley, 175 cases, 13.5% alc., $25 CDN
Excellent. A five-minute drive north from Oroville, Wash., delivers you to the doorstep of this young winery in Osoyoos, B.C., and home to this unoaked Chardonnay. Asian pear, grapefruit juice, lime peel and flinty aromas transcend to crisp flavors of tropical fruit joined by more grapefruit and tart gooseberry. It's a lovely and cleansing structure that offers lingering lime on the back end.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery
2007 Semi-Sauv Reserve
Yakima Valley, 70 cases, 13.2% alc., $20
Recommended. The road to Mount Shuksan affords you the chance to pick up some of this blend of Sauvignon Blanc (53%) and Semillon, which features tropical notes with lychee and passionfruit, followed by flavors of Sprite, caramel apple and walnuts. Chill this because of its softer structure (0.9% residual sugar) and delicate acidity.
Rio Vista Wines
2008 Sunset on the River Estate White Wine
Columbia Valley, 100 cases, 12.5% alc., $20
Excellent. This boutique winery near Chelan, Wash., is accessible to Columbia River traffic, and John Little's blend of Pinot Gris (60%) and Gewurztraminer is ideal for boating and quaffing. Dusty apple, Asian pear, starfruit and jasmine aromas come through with a surprising hit of sweetness on the entry. Canned pineapple pops up in the midpalate, balanced with lime-like acidity, and it leaves the dock with spices such as cardamom, cumin and cinnamon.
Thurston Wolfe Winery
2008 PGV
Washington, 2,200 cases, 13.5% alc., $16
Excellent. This year, Wade Wolfe left the Muscat out of his wildly popular screwcapped blend of Pinot Gris (57%) off Burgess and Crawford vineyards with Viognier from Coyote Canyon. This edition shows pears, apple, big minerality, lime and even some huckleberry in the nose. It's very expressive and juicy entering the palate as segmented orange, blueberries and lime seem to demand Northwest seafood, including a fish taco.
Westport Winery
2008 Bordello Blonde White Wine
Washington, 368 cases, 11% alc., $20
Recommended. A blend of Gewurztraminer (75%) and Riesling, it's hugely tropical in the aromas and the flavors of fruit cocktail and banana. Those who enjoy brunch wines will lap this up.
Roses
Anne Amie Vineyards
2007 Prisme Pinot Noir Blanc
Willamette Valley, 390 cases, 13.5% alc., $45
Recommended. This Carlton, Ore., winery draws off free-run Pinot Noir juice and avoids skin contact, turning what would normally be a red wine into essentially a white wine. It's then aged on the lees and in French oak for 18 months. That yields corresponding notes of butterscotch, honeysuckle, candy corn, quince, lemon pepper and citrus with a finish of ghee. Enjoy with cracked crab or pan-fried scallops.
Westport Winery
2008 Smoky Nor'Western White Cabernet Franc
Washington, 188 cases, 13% alc., $27
Recommended. Rainier cherries, canned plums, sliced rhubarb, toffee and drip coffee notes highlight this quaffable pink that's off-dry (2.5% residual sugar). A portion of the proceeds from this pink benefit the Museum of the North Beach in Aberdeen, Wash.
Westport Winery
2008 True White Merlot
Washington, 181 cases, 13% alc., $29
Recommended. It's an unusual yet worthy usage for Merlot, and the attraction begins with its brilliant red color. Blueberry, blackberry and raspberry come together in the aromas and come back around in the mouth, where a squeeze of cranberry adds just enough acidity for enjoyment. A portion of the proceeds from this pink go to assist wayward animals at the North Beach PAWS in Ocean Shores.
Sparkling wine
Domaine Ste. Michelle
NV Blanc de Blancs
Columbia Valley, 32,640 cases, 11.5% alc., $12
Recommended. Thinking of serving Chardonnay? Consider this as a fun - and less expensive - alternative with a seemingly endless choice of food applications. (See our Match Maker feature starting on Page 78). Dusty apple, baked coconut cake and diesel aromas play out on the palate with refreshing yellow grapefruit flavors in a dry style (1.05% residual sugar) and a long finish of lime and quinine.
Domaine Ste. Michelle
NV Blanc de Noirs
Columbia Valley, 20,081 cases, 11% alc., $12
Excellent. A French term for white from red, here's 100% Pinot Noir with just enough skin contact to create a pinkish hue. Aromas broadcast a hint of Rainier cherry, huckleberry, apple, citrus and candy corn. The dab of sweetness (1.15% residual sugar) highlights strawberries and raspberries, and the flourish of citrusy acidity drives it toward Chinese food, lemon chicken or a cheese and fruit plate that includes dates and figs.
Domaine Ste. Michelle
NV Brut
Columbia Valley, 191,540 cases, 11.5% alc., $12
Excellent. Rick Casqueiro's largest production exudes Gala apple, Bartlett pear, candied ginger and almond aromas. It's remarkably frothy in the mouth with more orchard fruit, shiny acidity and a mouthwatering finish that demands your return. The Richland, Wash., bubbleman enjoys this with sashimi or bagels and lox. (1.19% residual sugar).
Domaine Ste. Michelle
NV Extra Dry
Columbia Valley, 25,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $12
Outstanding! Here's the most festive and widely appealing of the lineup from the Northwest's largest sparkling wine house. Big bubbles of this Chardonnay (80%), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier blend bring out perfumy ambrosia salad, lychee, peaches and caramel. Complex flavors of pineapple, melon and white strawberries find balance, and the finish with angel food cake makes this superb at receptions or as an aperitif. An easy way to remember the sweetness level (2.3% residual sugar) is that extra dry means off-dry.
Karma Vineyards
2006 Sparkling Wine
Columbia Valley, 408 cases, 12.5% alc., $45
Excellent. Beyond the outdoor restaurant and behind the cozy tasting room is a cave at this little paradise on Lake Chelan's south shore. There you'll find the riddling rack for these bubbles by Ray Sandidge. He does this in a reserve brut methode champenoise style from Smasne Vineyard Chardonnay (65%) in the Yakima Valley and Karma's estate Pinot Noir. It opens with hints of apple butter, Sprite, coconut, caramel, toasted marshmallow and yeastiness. It's an easy drink of Pink Lady apple and pear syrup (1% residual sugar) with more caramel and fresh-baked cake in the finish.
Fruit wines
Westport Winery
NV Dawn Patrol White Wine
Washington, 360 cases, 11% alc., $25
Outstanding! This ranks among the most remarkable offerings from this rapidly expanding
2-year-old family operation in Grays Harbor. It's Riesling that's turned red by raspberry juice. The drink is alluring and very intense from beginning to end, and the texture taunts you into thoughts of picking seeds out of your teeth. There's lip-smacking acidity, which makes it a balanced deck wine with 12.5% residual sugar, so chill it and kill it.
Westport Winery
NV Peaches on the Beaches Peach Wine
Washington, 382 cases, 10% alc., $21
Recommended. Simple yet tasty, this sweet treat (10% residual sugar) is filled with pineapple, apricot, Gala apple and orange marmalade with perfumy spices of cardamom and coriander.
Dessert wines
Apolloni Vineyards
2008 Dolce Vino Viognier
Columbia Valley, 248 cases, 12.6% alc., $22
Recommended. This Rhone variety is a reliable candidate for dessert wines, and here's no exception. It readily gives off aromas of lime, pineapple, spearmint, clover honey, gardenia and carameled apple. On the palate, it shows apricot, honey and cut peaches over vanilla ice cream, topped by a late burst of acidity to play with the residual sugar (13.7%).
Claar Cellars
2008 White Bluffs Late Harvest Riesling
Columbia Valley, 223 cases, 11.5% alc., $16
Recommended. When they mean late, these folks weren't kidding. They grapes were picked Dec. 10, with fermentation extending into the second week of January. The results are inviting and tasty with notes of pineapples, apricots and Juicy Fruit gum with sweet lemony finish (10.8% residual sugar) that fits for either brunch or the hot tub.
Davis Creek Cellars
2008 Boise Blanco Late Harvest Riesling
Snake River Valley, 110 cases, 12.5% alc., $20
Recommended. Wind Ridge Vineyard produced the fruit for Gina Davis' dessert debut. Notes feature poached pear with caramel and nuts to make it mouthfilling, creamy and pleasant at 8% residual sugar.
Fujishin Family Cellars
2008 Late Harvest Chardonnay
Snake River Valley, 85 cases, 11.53% alc., $20
Excellent. Not often is Chardonnay done in a dessert style, but Caldwell, Idaho, winemaker Martin Fujishin provides a blueprint from what used to be called the Polo Cove Vineyard. Beguiling aromas of nectarine, ruby red grapefruit, candy corn and rose petal drop into tasty flavors of a Pink Lady apple and an orange Creamsicle. There's a late dose of acidity to soup up the residual sugar (8.5%), and some almond extract in the finish for complexity.
Pêntage Winery
2007 Slow Vineyards Late Harvest
Okangana Valley, 40 cases, 10.5% alc., $23 CDN
Excellent. Paul Gardner's picturesque operation overlooking Skaha Lake draws in Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay and Muscat from this Naramata Bench site. Aromas of peach, apricot, blood orange and rosewater expand and demand your attention. It develops into flavors of tangerine with orange syrup, braced by crisp acidity and a slice of nectarine in the finish. Residual sugar is 15%.
Scatter Creek Winery
NV Frost Tease Dessert Wine
Washington, 72 cases, 13.5% alc., $25
Outstanding! Terril Keary grabbed our attention earlier this year with a delectable off-dry Gewurztraminer, and now the Tenino, Wash., vintner has a new product. Frozen grapes of Yakima Valley Riesling (85%) were blended with cranberry (10%) from Westport and boysenberry out of Shelton. The array of aromas includes strawberry, rhubarb, watermelon, black cherry and spearmint. The drink is hugely viscous and laced with more cherries, strawberry jam, homemade caramel, cinnamon and cloves. She's loaded with sweetness (14% residual sugar), personality and can be enjoyed with waffles or out of someone's navel.
Westport Winery
2008 Shiver Me Timbers Late Harvest Riesling
Washington, 169 cases, 10% alc., $27
Recommended. Orchard fruit along the lines of apricot, pears and apple include accents of honeysuckle and Graham cracker inside a delicious but soft structure that's capped by pineapple and lychee.
Ice wine
Covey Run Winery
2006 Reserve Semillon Ice Wine
Yakima Valley, 7,000 cases, 11% alc., $23
Excellent. This white Bordeaux grape makes for some amazingly complex dessert wines, and here's no exception. Whiffs of orange marmalade, glaceed apricot, pineapple, honeysuckle, lychee and baked pie crust come trickling through to the tongue. There's a sense of mouth-watering baked lemon tart with the crust, and finish of nutmeg, clove and orange spice.
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards
2008 Gewurztraminer Ice Wine
Columbia Valley, 95 cases, 8.24% alc., $37
Recommended. December temperatures in Eastern Washington made it easy to decide when to harvest this vintage of ice wine. The Gordons pulled these off to produce a tropical presentation with nice viscosity that includes notes of apricot, grilled pineapple, a cedar frond, orange zest, cinnamon and melted vanilla ice cream. The residual sugar stands at a remarkable 32%.
Wapato Point Cellars
2005 Merlot/Zinfandel Ice Wine
Columbia Valley, 290 cases, 12% alc., $36
Excellent. Even though it's a blend, it's true ice wine by virtue of the grapes being plucked in December from vines at Jones (Merlot) and their Chelan estate site of Cougar Ridge (Zin). There's cinnamon, apricot, peach, Bit O'Honey and some maple-cured bacon in the nose. Think of chocolate cake with nuts and raspberry filling on the palate, joined by cherry cola, blood orange acidity and dried apricot. Look for some black licorice in the sweet finish of 18% residual sugar.
Best Buy reds
Claar Cellars
2006 White Bluffs Cab-Merlot
Columbia Valley, 900 cases, 13.7% alc., $13
Excellent. The Claar family in Pasco furthers its reputation for quality, price and food-friendly wines. This 60/40 blend of estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot elicits aromas of raspberry, light cherry, vanilla bean, smoky tobacco and leather. It delivers more of the same on the palate, featuring blueberries and raspberries, racy acidity on the midpalate and black tea in the finish.
Kramer Vineyards
NV Quad Rose
Willamette Valley, 115 cases, 12% alc., $12
Excellent. Trudy Kramer, the queen of Yamhill, continues her tradition of wines priced for regular folk. Pinot Noir, mostly from the 2007 vintage, gained color from Carmine and complexity from Pinot Gris and Muller-Thurgau. It's swarming with strawberries, nectarine, plums, cherries, apples and watermelon aromas, then focused on delicious strawberries and cherries on the palate. There's more watermelon in the slightly off-dry finish (1.5% residual sugar), making it an easy drink in a warm environment.
Oakwood Cellars
2006 Lemberger Blanc
Yakima Valley, 200 cases, 12.1% alc., $9
Recommended. Few folks craft Lemberger. Fewer turn it into blush, and no one has been doing it as long as Eppie Skelton at this winery on the shoulders of Red Mountain. It's a brunch wine that features strawberry/rhubarb jam and blackberry. She left it off-dry (2% residual sugar) and suggests pairings of smoked fish, cheeses or a movie with popcorn.
Ridge Crest
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 558 cases, 13.8% alc., $10
Excellent. Consumers can expect more of the same quality from this second label for Claar Cellars. Heck, you even save a couple of extra bucks. Aromas are of cherry pomegranate cocktail juice, backed by blackberries, espresso and black licorice. It's an easy approach of additional cherry flavors with nice pomegranate acidity and more of that Aussie black licorice in the finish.
Ridge Crest
2006 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 243 cases, 13.9% alc., $10
Outstanding! Hillside Vineyard off the estate White Bluffs site, which overlooks the Columbia River near Pasco, Wash., produced beautiful fruit. Bruno Corneaux delivers this multi-faceted wine at an astounding price. Inviting oak aromas are backed by sweet herbs, Red Vines licorice, watermelon, rhubarb, black pepper and Mexican chocolate. It's a rush of sweet cherries, plums, strawberry rhubarb and cinnamon on the entry. The sweet fruit is reminiscent of an Amarone, but there's some cherry skin tartness and tannin in the background. The dash of Cabernet Franc (3%) peers out with a bit of leafiness that will lend this well to Italian dishes.
Rigamarole Winery
2007 Red Wine
Okanagan Valley, 5,000 cases, 13% alc., $16 CDN
Excellent. The Artisan Wine Co., a property of British Columbia icon Mission Hill Family Estate, offers this blend of Pinot Noir (40%), Gamay Noir (25%), Merlot (20%) and Cabernet Franc. New winemaker Tish Cooper blended them into inviting aromas of spicy cherries, cranberries, candela tobacco, green peppercorns, leather and eucalyptus. It's mouthfilling, big and food friendly with smoky cherries, chocolate, Italian herbs and assertive, but not pushy, tannins.
Rigamarole Winery
2008 Rose
Okanagan Valley, 2,000 cases, 12% alc., $14 CDN
Excellent. This brand first hit the market in 2007, and the wines are as fresh and fun as their whimsical safari-themed labels. The pink version is filled with notes of Rainier cherry, cranberry, plum and watermelon. There's a slice of tart rhubarb and strawberry leaf to balance the drop of residual sugar (0.95%). Enjoy during the holidays with a slice of turkey or a ham sandwich.
Sweet Valley Wines
2007 Righteous Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 792 cases, 13.6% alc., $12
Excellent. To find a wine made in Walla Walla at this price is a bit of an anachronism. And yet, here's a Merlot-based throwback via Josh McDaniels from Forgotten Hills, Seven Hills, Arete and Alice vineyards. There's little to knock as the nose features bright plums and whiffs of vanilla, citrus, cedar, cigar leaf, gun metal, smoky oak and chocolate. The creamy palate tastes of blueberry, boysenberry, nutmeg and chocolate. Sublime tannins make this an easy drink.
Best Buy Whites
Abiqua Wind Vinyeard
2008 Chloe's Breeze Muller-Thurgau
Willamette Valley, 132 cases, 12.5% alc., $12
Recommended. Hermann Muller's cross of Riesling and Sylvaner thrives in the Willamette Valley. This version opens with a reach of peaches and apricots, some lychee, handmade caramels and a lemon tonic. The palate focuses on that orchard fruit and finishes with Limeade and sliced almond. Try with chimichurri-influenced Mexican food.
Abiqua Wind Vineyard
2008 Gloria Anne Gewurztraminer
Willamette Valley, 130 cases, 12% alc., $12
Outstanding! Pete Buffington proudly points out that Silverton is on the "other side" of Oregon's Willamette Valley, and he's been dry farming these vines for nearly 30 years. And this offering is all about the fruit. In the glass, it's filled with pineapple, passionfruit, citrus and cantaloupe. Sweetened pineapple and tangerine spill out across the mouth, and that perception - combined with lemony acidity - makes this very appealing.
Anne Amie Vineyards
2008 Muller-Thurgau Cuvee
Willamette Valley, 874 cases, 12% alc., $14
Excellent. Chateau Benoit in Lafayette, Ore., grew and produced some of the best M-T in the Northwest. Thankfully, philanthropist Robert Pamplin preserved the vines when he bought the winery in 1999. The drink is remarkably perfumy and filled with citrusy notes, particularly tangerine and nectarine. It's backed by minerality and finished dry. Enjoy with pan-fried oysters and Mexican dishes.
Apolloni Vineyards
2008 Pinot Blanc
Willamette Valley, 524 cases, 13.3% alc., $15
Excellent. Alfredo Apolloni might prefer to name this "Pinot Bianco" in the Italian tradition, and it's a showy example. A sniff brings in thoughts of ambrosia salad, a squeeze of lime, honeysuckle and cotton candy. There's a big spoonful of that fruit cocktail and fresh pineapple on the entry with fig and lanolin in the middle. Next, there's a whisk of gooseberry and lemony acidity to the finish. Serve as an aperitif or with Thai food.
Apolloni Vineyards
2008 Pinot Grigio
Willamette Valley, 687 cases, 13.5% alc., $15
Recommended. The Italian influence at this Forest Grove, Ore., winery is on display here in this offering profiling tropical fruit, Gala apples, pineapple and custard, balanced by starfruit and citrus acidity.
Claar Cellars
2008 White Bluffs Unoaked Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 280 cases, 13.3% alc., $13
Excellent. This 96-acre, second-generation vineyard continues to produce quality wines under the guiding hand of longtime French winemaker Bruno Corneaux. Its stainless-steel fermentation allows for aromas of peach, lemon curd, banana taffy, almond, handmade caramel and straw. Blood oranges and tangerine flavors stream across the palate, followed by more peaches and a spoon of lemon sorbet in the finish.
Covey Run Winery
2008 Gewurztraminer
Columbia Valley, 23,650 cases, 13% alc., $9
Recommended. This large-scale Washington winery long has served as a reliable proponent for "gee whiz," and this is full of pineapple, dried apricot and lemon/lime notes a peach pit in the finish. Its sugar is at 1.6%.
Covey Run Winery
2007 Reserve Late Harvest Riesling
Columbia Valley, 5,175 cases, 10% alc., $12
Recommended. Alluring notes of pink grapefruit, baked apple, dried papaya and minerality run true on the palate with more tangerine, a flash of orange and late Limeade acidity. Its sugar is at 3.8%.
Covey Run Winery
2007 Riesling
Columbia Valley, 77,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $10
Excellent. Kate Michaud hit the ground running at this Sunnyside, Wash., winery in 2007, and this is showing tangerine, lemon, wet stone and some grassiness. There's reward on the palate with long flavors of yellow grapefruit, lemons, pear, bright acidity, some minerality and appealing bitterness in the finish. Enjoy with poached white fish and orange wedges or a beet salad. Its sugar is at 1.6%.
Fujishin Family Cellars
2008 Bitner Vineyard Viognier
Snake River Valley, 103 cases, 14.2% alc., $15
Excellent. It's rare to see this Rhone white variety in this price category at such quality. Martin Fujishin, a young winemaker in Caldwell, Idaho, knows how to handle it in a fruit-forward style, starting with aromatics of blood orange, blueberries, pears, apple blossom and a big scrape of lemon peel. The mouth-filling delivery is round and bright with Granny Smith apple, more orange and a piece of caramel. Pair it up with lime-influenced Mexican dishes.
Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery
2008 Ogopogo's Lair Pinot Grigio
Okanagan Valley, 2,733 cases, 13% alc., $15 CDN
Excellent. This somewhat underground project of Mission Hill Family Estate keeps producing deliciously affordable wine. Hints of homemade apple sauce with cinnamon, lemon, minerality, petrol and butterscotch are brightened by yellow grapefruit and its pith. That acidity builds inside a dry structure that will lend to spicy Asian food.
Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery
2007 Townsend Jack Unoaked Chardonnay
Okanagan Valley, 2,022 cases, 13.5% alc., $12 CDN
Recommended. Sadly, the white-tailed jack rabbit is extinct, but the folks at Mission Hill continue to be prolific with this project. Notes of pears, starfruit, Cling peaches sweet herbs, cilantro and vanilla hop around, finishing with a slice of Granny Smith apple tartness. Enjoy with tortilla chips and a fruit salsa.
Gilbert Cellers
2008 Estate Gewurztraminer
Columbia Valley, 246 cases, 12.4% alc., $15
Outstanding! Justin Neufeld has several estate sites in his quiver, but Sunrise Vineyard near Yakima made him a marksman with this release. Aromas feature an assortment of pink grapefruit, apple, peach, gooseberry, Circus Peanut candy and a pina colada Lifesaver. The crowd-pleasing palate is focused on tree-ripened pears and juicy peaches, though, and there's just enough citrusy acidity to balance the residual sugar (2.2%).
Gilbert Cellars
2008 Riesling
Columbia Valley, 328 cases, 12.5% alc., $15
Excellent. A diverse vineyard program allows Justin Neufeld, who trained at Columbia Crest, to exert control from start to finish. Here's a delightful expression from Stone Ridge Vineyard near Othello, Wash., that opens with notes of lime sherbet, lemon custard, lychee, sliced almonds and an apple/pear tart. That orchard fruit continues to pour through with more lychee, sweetened grapefruit and Asian pear tartness to balance the residual sugar (2%).
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards
2008 Shameless Hussy Roussanne
Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 13.8% alc., $15
Excellent. The shtick for this tier is that for the price "they don't deliver what they promise." Instead, she puts out. The aromas tease with a Pink Lady apple, peach ice cream, pineapple, vanilla and lemon. Thankfully, this opens up on the flavors too with more peaches and crisp apples with bright acidity. There's some butterscotch candy and a hint of Grand Marnier in the finish. This wine is sold out at the winery.
Hester Creek Estate Winery
2007 Pinot Blanc
Okanagan Valley, 5,000 cases, 13.8% alc., $16 CDN
Recommended. No region in the Pacific Northwest can match the Okanagan Valley's dedication to this Burgundy variety. Here's a delicate offering that features tones of juicy Bosc pears, lemon/lime citrus and grassiness in a sublimely mouth-coating structure.
Illahe Vineyards & Winery
2008 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 200 cases, 13.5% alc., $13
Recommended. Oregon's signature white at this young Dallas winery exudes notes of lemon/lime, melon and grapefruit with pleasing grassiness, minerality and balance. Look for this in wine shops because it's sold out at the winery.
Kamiak
2008 Windust White Wine
Columbia Valley, 2,843 cases, 13.7% alc., $10
Excellent. Gordon Brothers near Pasco, Wash., is redefining its second label, and this fruit-forward Sauvignon Blanc-based blend (90%) certainly stands out. It's musky in the nose, along with blood orange, pineapple, baked apple, toasted almonds and rub of rosemary. Sweet pineapple and juicy mango flavors find balance with starfruit tartness and lingering lemony acidity.
King Estate
2008 Acrobat Pinot Gris
Oregon, 12,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $12
Excellent. Eugene's icon winery delivers its new lower-priced tier while still relying on its certified organic Domaine vineyard for the bulk of this production. Inviting aromas feature Golden Delicious apple, peach, lemon peel, banana and butterscotch. There's more of the apple on the entry, then a rush of grapefruit, kiwi and lemony acidity, which more than offsets the dab of residual sugar (0.7%). Some pineapple and citrus pith in the finish solicit pairing ideas such as lime chicken in a cream sauce or penne with pork.
King Estate
2008 next Riesling
Washington, 8,000 cases, 13% alc., $12
Outstanding! The Kings saw the future of Pinot Gris in Oregon, and they've made a commitment to Riesling in Washington by acquiring a 40-acre parcel at the spectacular Wallula Vineyard near Finley, Wash. Their results are a stunning as the view. Tangerine, apricot, orange marmalade and lime tones waft in the nose and come across on the palate, featuring a bright citrus entry and persistent juiciness to the finish.
Knipprath Cellars
2008 Roussanne
Columbia Valley, 13% alc., $14
Recommended. One of Spokane's oldest wineries shows skill with more than just its array of tasty dessert wines. In the restored Parkwater school they blended in some Viognier to produce notes of passionfruit, bananas and butterscotch that explode and expand across the palate with early richness and lemon zest acidity.
Kramer Vineyards
2006 Dijon Chardonnay
Willamette Valley, 250 cases, 14.7% alc., $15
Recommended. Trudy Kramer is into her third decade in the Oregon wine industry, and she continues to offer value. There's some oak to this, but there's also nice richness and plenty of fruit as Golden Delicious apples, Asian pear and sweetened lemon make for a balanced quaffer.
Kramer Vineyards
2007 Muller-Thurgau
Yamhill-Carlton District, 240 cases, 12% alc., $10
Recommended. Inviting lychee, jasmine, starfruit, lime and mineral aromas drop into sweet peaches, apples and more lychee flavors. It stays sweet through the midpalate before a tart finish of kumquat and more starfruit. Enjoy as a sipper or paired with Asian food.
Mercer Estates
2008 Pinot Gris
Columbia Valley, 2,383 cases, 13.3% alc., $14
Outstanding! David Forsyth helped create Hogue Cellars' remarkable reputation for this grape, so this rating with his new Prosser, Wash., winery is no surprise. Estate grapes from Brooks and Sunnyside vineyards in the Yakima Valley were blended with some from Wallula Vineyard, and the aromas include low-hanging apples and pears, starfruit, chalkboard dust and a squirt of lemon. It's a clean, straight-forward and balanced delivery of Honeycrisp apple and tart lemon, capped by apple peel bitterness.
Mission Hill Family Estate
2007 Five Vineyards Chardonnay
Okanagan Valley, 2,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $14 CDN
Outstanding! John Simes taps into five parcels in Canada's southern Okanagan - Naramata, Oliver and Osoyoos - for this program. While this lot spent eight months in American oak, it proved to be spot-on, resulting in enticing and exotic aromatics of sliced pineapple, papaya, fresh corn, blood orange, clean linen and subtle barrel toast. It's delicious and crisp on the entry with fruit to match the nose, particularly the pineapple and oranges, with just a bit of citrus pith in the finish for balance and to enjoy with fare such as seafood pasta, poultry or hard cheeses.
Pend d'Oreille Winery
2007 Chardonnay
Idaho, 156 cases, 13.8% alc., $15
Excellent. Stephen Meyer continues to find it easy to work Kirby Vicker's fruit in the Snake River Valley, and this is one of their best collaborations. Tropical aromas include tantalizing pineapple and light oak tones. The drink is enjoyable, warm and lively with pears, apples, butter with quince in the finish. It's charming in its diversity from aroma to farewell, and if you want an oaky chardonnay, this has more balance that most.
Pleasant Hill Cellars
2008 Constance's Cuvee
Columbia Valley, 82 cases, 13.8% alc. $15
Recommended. Just two fewer percentage points of Marsanne (27%) and Larry Lindvig could have simply labeled this as Viognier (73%), but that's not this Western Washington winemaker's style. Aromas of apricot preserves, orange peel, gooseberry, jasmine and Juicy Fruit gum turn into a bone-dry structure of starfruit and gooseberry with pear on the finish.
Ridge Crest
2007 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 225 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Excellent. The Claar family in Pasco, Wash., has launched a second tier to its already affordable portfolio of wines. Here's a lively fruit-forward Chardonnay, a product of its stainless-steel fermentation (70%). The nose is of fresh apple cider, sweet pear, a bit of citrus and crushed hazelnut. Its hallmark is the palate of pear and tangerine with bright acidity and a lemony finish that should make this an excellent foil of goat cheese with pear jelly.
Rio Vista Wines
2007 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 14.3% alc., $15
Recommended. Those looking for unoaked Chardonnay will be happy to drive to or dock at this winery on the Columbia River near Chelan, Wash. Apple, apricot, pineapple and citrus notes glide along in steely fashion, and it's finished with hints of quinine and orange zest.
Rio Vista Wines
2007 Riesling
Columbia Valley, 100 cases, 12.86% alc., $15
Recommended. John Little left this off-dry (2.7% residual sugar) and maintained nice floral, citrus and diesel notes. Enjoy this during a warm day on his beach downstream from Wells Dam or on a cold day next to a bowl of pho.
San Juan Vineyards
2008 Riesling
Yakima Valley, 233 cases, 13.4% alc., $15
Recommended. Mouthwatering aromas of baked apple, lychee, jasmine and caramel turn into flavors of dried papaya and peach with burnt caramel and canned pineapple in the finish, which leans quite dry at 0.6% residual sugar.
Shadow Mountain Vineyards
2007 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 529 cases, 13.5% alc., $14
Recommended. Pink Lady apples, pears and melons - both honeydew and cantaloupe - form the baseline for a fruit-forward, yet dry, offering from this Junction City winery and vineyard that used sustainable practices.
Vale Wine Co.
2008 Riesling
Snake River Valley, 234 cases, 13.2% alc., $14
Recommended. John Danielson's young vineyard is in Vale, Ore., but he shares a tasting room in Caldwell, Idaho, where he's pouring this drink filled with apples and pear, then finished with lemon/lime citrus.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2008 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 24,000 cases, 13% alc., $15
Recommended. A lively and widely available drink that includes Pinot Blanc and Muscat, it's bright with yellow grapefruit and pear tones, capped with baked apple.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2008 Dry Riesling
Willamette Valley, 1,025 cases, 12.5% alc., $14
Recommended. Seriously dry at 0.15% residual sugar, it casts out classic aromas of diesel, lemons, anise and Thai basil. Nothing gets in the way of its slaty and lemony structure, and the spine-tingling acidity hangs onto the tongue. Suggested pairings include halibut with a mango-chili salsa.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2008 Riesling
Willamette Valley, 20,414 cases, 10% alc., $12
Outstanding! As members of the International Riesling Foundation, they've categorized this as "medium sweet" at 4.3% residual sugar. Enchantment begins with the nose of beautiful lemon, lychee, cantaloupe, dried mango and orange zest. Delicious flavors feature Texas pink grapefruit and lemon sherbet that's backed by plenty of acidity for Asian food or as an aperitif.
Print
E-Mail
