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  • It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."

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Wednesday, Oct. 14, 2009

Woehler on Wine: Savoring state Syrahs

Some visitors to Washington wine country who represent more than $400 million in annual wine buying power recently were treated to the state's Syrahs.

"I love to sell Washington Syrahs," said John Cain, general manager and master sommelier for Truffles, a popular St. Louis dining spot that was awarded the title of Best Wine List in America in 2007.

Cain, other sommeliers and wine buyers came from places such as the Bellagio in Las Vegas, Wolfgang Puck restaurants, Whole Foods and Costco.

They cozied up for a tasting at Mike Sauer's Red Willow Vineyard near Wapato. Sauer and the late David Lake of Columbia Winery pioneered Syrah in Washington.

The tour was sponsored by the Washington Wine Commission, and the Syrah tasting turned into a tribute to Lake, who died two days before the tasting.

Prior to the tasting, Lake's first Syrah — a 1988 Columbia — was poured. It still offered engaging qualities of smoky oak and fruit typical of Washington Syrahs.

In fact, it is the compelling fruit that gives Washington Syrahs their appeal.

"I think Washington has the best conditions in the country to produce great Syrahs," said Shayn Bjornholm, education director of the Washington Wine Commission, who led the tasting.

Syrah matches with a host of hearty foods -- including beef stew, buffalo burgers, spiced rubbed roast chicken, game and barbecued pork babyback ribs.

The Washington Syrahs, tasted in no particular order, were:

2007 Owen Roe, a blend of several vineyards, $25 -- Big and juicy with charming raspberry jam flavors.

2006 Gramercy Cellars Lagniappe Columbia Valley, $36 -- Offers perfume oak with racy cherry fruit flavors.

2006 Amavi, Pepperbridge Vineyards, $28 -- A lighter style with smooth berry flavors and supple tannins.

2006 L' Ecole No. 41, Columbia Valley, $25 -- Food friendly with a hint of chocolate-covered berries.

2007 Betz Family Winery, Red Mountain, $55 -- Leather and chocolate yields to supple cherry.

2005 Columbia, Red Willow Vineyards, $30 -- The 18th and last Syrah from David Lake is smooth and seamless from the oak beginning to the berry finish.

For those want to pay a little less, there are plenty of excellent tasty Washington Syrahs in the $15 and under range including those from Terra Blanca, Columbia Crest, Barnard Griffin, Hogue and Washington Hills.

*Bob Woehler has been writing about Pacific Northwest wines since 1978. E-mail him at bwoehler@charter.net or check out his past columns at www.winepressnw.com.

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