Friday, Sep. 11, 2009

Fab Cabs of the Pacific Northwest: Cabernet Sauvignon is an old favorite that has been rediscovered

By Andy Perdue, Wine Press Northwest

Cabernet Sauvignon, known as "the king of wines and the wine of kings," made Bordeaux and Napa Valley famous, and it would seem to be doing the same thing in Washington, where it is now the No. 1 red wine grape.

Cab surpassed Merlot as Washington's top red wine grape in 2006. A year ago, wineries crushed 26,100 tons of Cab, coming in behind only Riesling (28,500 tons) and Chardonnay (28,000).

For this judging, we invited wineries from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho to send their Cabernet Sauvignons and received 134 entries. Of these, 108 earned a "Recommended" or better rating and are reviewed here.

Coke Roth, one of our tasting panel members and a longtime international wine judge, noted the wines as a whole lacked the faults he has seen over the years, attributing this to better winemaking and viticulture practices as a whole.

The top wine in our competition came from Dusted Valley Vintners in Walla Walla, Wash., It has earned this distinction in the past (often with reds), so this should be no surprise. Right behind it was Barnard Griffin's regular "Tulip" label, a great value as well as a great wine. In fact, many of the wines at the top of our list read like a "who's who" of the wine industry: Kiona, Forgeron, Chateau Ste. Michlle, L'Ecole, Maryhill and Sineann.

One surprise was Glencorrie, a new winery in Walla Walla that earned the rare distinction of earning two top "Outstanding" ratings. Veteran winemaker Charlie Hoppes crafted these Cabs. And Zerba Cellars, a winery on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, also received "Outstanding" ratings for its two entries.

Three hotspots for growing Cab showed up well in this judging, with wines from the Walla Walla Valley, Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain well represented amid the top wines.

And on an interesting note (for us anyways): The top wine in the judging was topped with a screwcap, as were two other "Outstanding" wines. And Sineann's was topped with a glass cork.

Our judges for for this competition were: Virginie Bourgue, a Walla Walla Valley winemaker; Jay Drysdale, a British Columbia wine writer and consultant; Coke Roth, an international wine judge and Red Mountain vineyard owner; Thomas Henick-Kling, director of Washington State University's viticulture and enology program; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; and Dave Seaver, a member of Wine Press Northwest's tasting panel.

Outstanding

Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $45

Owners and winemakers Corey Braunel and Chad Johnson consistently are producing some of the finest red wines in the Pacific Northwest, as evidenced by the fact that their wines regularly are at or near the top of our big judgings. This reserve-level Cabernet Sauvignon is more elegant than powerful, opening with aromas of black olives, back bacon and ripe cherries, followed by flavors of olives, cherries, raspberries, cinnamon and bittersweet chocolate. Acidity and tannins marry beautifully with the ample fruit. (125 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Barnard Griffin Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $17

Winemaker Rob Griffin's ability to consistently craft greatness wine after wine and year after year never fails to astonish us. This is his mainstream Cab, and it is gorgeous. It is loaded with fresh dark-toned berries and olives with hints of smoke on the nose, followed by lusciously ripe blackberries, cherries and plums on the palate. Thanks to supple tannins and mild oak, this is eminently drinkable in its youth yet is likely to age for a half-decade or more. (6,548 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Forgeron Cellars 2004 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $46

French native and Burgundian-trained Marie-Eve Gilla has blossomed in her nearly two decades in the New World. The winemaker and part-owner of this Walla Walla Valley winery made great use of some of Washington's finest grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills to craft this sublime Cab. It opens with complex aromas of minerals, pencil shavings, blackberries and pie cherries, followed by elegant flavors of blackberries, red-toned fruit and hints of chocolate. The oak, tannins and alcohol are all expertly managed. (175 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Kiona Vineyards Winery 2003 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $35

Winemaker Scott Williams knows a thing or two about Red Mountain grapes because his family pioneered viticulture on the ridge in the eastern Yakima Valley. This suave Cab opens with aromas of slightly dried red and black fruit, a hint of smokiness and a touch of chocolate, followed by flavors of darker-toned fruit, including currants and Bing cherries. This is wine is a bit older from a very warm vintage and is showing nice maturity. (1,680 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Weisinger's of Ashland 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Rogue Valley, $45

John Weisinger was one of the early grape growers and winemakers in Oregon's Rogue Valley, planting his estate vineyard in 1979 and launching the winery in 1988. He and son Eric have especially excelled in Bordeaux varieties over the years, though Eric has since departed to launch a career as an international winemaking consultant. This fascinating Cab provides aromas of menthol and black currants, followed by flavors of moist earth and minerals backed by silky tannins. This is a subtle, refined red with mouth-filling vibrancy. (813 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Ethos Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $40

Grapes from vaunted Cold Creek Vineyard north of the Yakima Valley are the backbone for this reserve-level Cab from Washington's flagship winery. Winemaker Bob Bertheau also blended fruit from the Wahluke Slope as well as Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills to craft a red wine of great complexity. It opens with aromas of rose petals, violets, mint and black cherry, followed by plush, fleshy flavors of blackberries and black chocolate. Tightly focused tannins and bright acidity back up the ample fruit, giving it plenty of backbone for enjoying now with prime rib or for years to come. (2,300 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Glencorrie Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $40

Washington winemaking veteran Charlie Hoppes crafted the wine for this young Walla Walla Valley producer, using grapes from the highly regarded Windrow and Dwelley vineyards. The result is an elegant and complex Cabernet Sauvignon with aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, along with hints of herbs and freshly ground coffee. On the palate are bright flavors of red fruit, primarily cherries, backed with chocolaty tannins and impeccable acidity. This wine will age well for at least a decade, or pop the cork now with grilled meats. (240 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2005 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $31

Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker's touch with Bordeaux varieties is nothing short of remarkable. From his location on the north shore of Lake Chelan, Lehmbecker reaches out across the entire Columbia Valley to find the perfect grapes. This is one of his finest efforts to date with Cabernet Sauvignon, as it opens with big, dark aromas of black cherries, chocolate and a bit of coffee. On the palate are rich flavors of blackberries, mint, cherries, chocolate and cedar, with complex whispers of maple syrup and bacon. This is a rich wine. (220 cases, 14% alc.)

Glencorrie Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $35

This young Walla Walla Valley winery has struck twice in our big Cab competition. This wine's success should be no surprise, as the grapes come from two great vineyards: Stillwater Creek in the Frenchman Hills and Gamache in the Columbia Basin. Winemaker Charlie Hoppes crafted a luscious red with aromas of black cherries, chocolate, coffee and a hint of oak, followed by big, dark flavors of blackberries, black olives, dark chocolate and hints of cedar. Just nine barrels made the cut for this blockbuster wine. (208 cases, 14.7% alc.)

L'Ecole No. 41 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $40

Marty Clubb is the man behind one of the Walla Walla Valley's oldest and finest producers. This Cab is a blend of grapes from five vineyards, including Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, Loess, Va Piano and Yellow Jacket. It opens with complex aromas of toffee, orange zest, cinnamon and cherries, followed by rich black fruit backed with youthfully exuberant tannins. You could open this now with a well-marbled steak, but hiding this in your cellar for at least a half-decade will reward your patience. (1,785 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Sawtooth Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Snake River Valley, $17

Brad Pintler's final release as winemaker for the operation he and his father started is a fitting farewell, as it is one of his greatest wines yet. It is a complex red with aromas of blackberries, moist earth, mushrooms and oak, followed by lingering flavors of cherries, cedar and coffee. Smooth, elegant tannins provide all the backing necessary for this nicely priced, drink-now Cab. (1,500 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2007 Naked Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $12

The inaugural Cab for winemaker Joy Andersen's line of organically farmed wines is a doozy - not only for its quality but also its price. It is a fruit-driven red with aromas of sweet chocolate, cherries and even blueberries, followed by bright, upfront flavors of everything from black plums to red currants and cranberries. Moderate tannins and bright acidity give this gorgeous balance. Age this on the way home from the store. (1,500 cases, 13.7% alc.)

H/H Estates 2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Big John Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $28

This label for Coyote Canyon Winery in Prosser, Wash., is a beauty. Mike Andrews, part of the famed Andrews family of grape growers in Washington's Horse Heaven Hills, oversees this operation. This gorgeous wine opens with aromas of olives, Bing cherries and huckleberries, followed by long, rich flavors of cherries, minerals, sweet herbs and chocolate. It's a boldly structured wine, as one would expect from Horse Heaven Hills Cab. (103 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Westport Winery 2007 Charterboat Chick's Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $27

Blaine and Kim Roberts own and operate Washington's only coastal winery, running this operation (including a vineyard!) in the Grays Harbor County city best known for chartered fishing trips. The winery produces more than two dozen different wines, most of them with fanciful names and labels. But this Cab is serious business, with huge aromas of raspberries, blackberries, huckleberries and marionberries, followed by bold, ripe fruit loaded with flavors of raspberries, hazelnuts and leather. Restrained tannins and bright acidity provide all the balance this wine needs. (221 cases, 12% alc.)

Airfield Estates 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $22

This young producer in Prosser, Wash., continues to shine with one wine after another. Winemaker Marcus Miller took advantage of 20-year-old estate vines in Yakima Valley to craft this delicious and lively wine. It opens with a whiff of chocolate and slate, as well as aromas of blackberries, pie cherries and cedar. On the palate, the flavors of Rainier cherries, blackberries and strawberries are balanced with lively acidity and elegant tannins. When palate bombs from this vintage have long since faded, this wine will still be going strong. (355 cases, 15.4% alc.)

Sineann 2007 Baby Poux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $48

One of the most amusingly named vineyards in Washington is Baby Poux, a younger block at famed Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills. Peter Rosback, owner and winemaker for one of Oregon's most esteemed producers, has crafted a Cab with elegant aromas of spices, sweet herbs, raspberries and even a hint of citrus. On the palate are flavors of freshly picked raspberries, as well as cherries and even blueberries. The fruit is just fleshy enough to meld with dense tannins. This is a pleasing wine from start to finish. (250 cases, 15.1% alc.)

Zerba Cellars 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $45

Cecil and Marilyn Zerba launched their wine operation in Milton-Freewater, Ore., (about 15 minutes south of Walla Walla) in 2001 when they planted their first estate vineyard. Success has come quickly, and it continues with this Cabernet Sauvignon. It opens with aromas of cherries, leather, chocolate and forest floor, followed by flavors of bright raspberries, Bing cherries and bittersweet chocolate. Modest tannins and bright acidity provide youthful accessibility. (138 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Zerba Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $30

Winemaker Doug Nierman took the long way from the Wenatchee Valley to the Walla Walla Valley, working his way through Sonoma and Napa counties before working at Long Shadows and Pepper Bridge. Now he's crafting superior Cabs at this Milton-Freewater, Ore., winery. This red shows off aromas of black plums, blackberries and even boysenberries, followed by bold, ripe flavors of black raspberries and blackberries. It's a fully loaded wine with ample fruit, oak, tannin and acidity. Tame this with a marbled ribeye. (1,389 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $23

Jeff Gordon planted his vineyard overlooking the Snake River near Pasco, Wash., in the early '80s and launched his eponymous winery later that decade. He relies entirely on estate fruit for this wine, described by one judge as "a Cab lover's Cab," with aromas of blackberry cobbler, spearmint and even cranberries. On the palate, it's a quietly contemplative wine with notes of pomegranates, black cherries and other underlying dark fruit. (3,500 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Maryhill Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $20

Our 2009 Washington Winery of the Year has crafted yet another delicious red wine. Craig and Vicki Leuthold have created a destination winery on a cliff overlooking the Columbia River near the town of Goldendale, Wash. This Cab opens with complex aromas of cola, vanilla bean, violets and black cherries, followed by flavors of cherries, clove and cinnamon backed with lively acidity and just enough tannins to age elegantly. It's mighty tasty now and likely will reward another half-decade in the cellar. (1,200 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Dakota Creek Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $22

This is a breakthrough wine for this producer on the border town of Blaine, Wash. This wine from the warm 2007 vintage reveals amazing and complex aromas of forest floor, focused red fruit, sweet pipe tobacco and freshly brewed espresso. On the palate are tightly structured flavors of black cherries, raspberries and hints of cranberries, along with minerally notes and a long, consistent finish. Enjoy this with grilled meats or vegetables. (250 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Pend d'Oreille Winery 2006 Lawrence Vineyard Meyer Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $35

The release of this wine marks the 20th anniversary of owner/winemaker Steve Meyer making wine. The grapes come from Josh Lawrence's vineyard on the Royal Slope in Washington's Columbia Basin, and the resulting wine is one of the finest yet to come from this North Idaho winery. It opens with aromas of black fruit, leather and chocolate, followed by suave flavors of ripe blackberries and red currants with silky tannins and impressively restrained oak. (97 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Excellent

Coyote Canyon Winery 2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $18

Coyote Canyon, the estate winery for the famed Horse Heaven Hills vineyard, is in the Winemaker's Loft in Prosser, Wash. This superb Cab opens with aromas of chocolate, cedar and cherries, followed by bright flavors of red cherries, raspberries, hints of chocolate and underlying cedar. (130 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Woodward Canyon Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $39

Owner/winemaker Rick Small used grapes from his estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley as well as famed DuBrul Vineyard in the Yakima Valley for this superb Cab. He blended in 11% Syrah, which gives it round, plump notes. It opens with aromas of black licorice, blackberries and even notes of sausages, followed by flavors of black fruit, bittersweet chocolate and notes of coffee. (599 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Waterbrook Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $22

This longtime Walla Walla Valley winery now is owned by Precept Brands of Seattle and has a beautiful new facility along Highway 12 a few miles west of Walla Walla. This delicous red provides succulent aromas of black olives, plums, sultry raspberries and plums, followed by rich, dark flavors of blackberris, black currants, orange zest and freshly baked bread. Well-balanced tannins provide just the right level of structure. (4,070 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Alder Ridge 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $40

Corus Estates in Seattle owns this vineyard and winery overlooking the Columbia River near Alderdale, Wash. It's one of the most highly regarded vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills and supplies many wineries. This Cab reveals attractive aromas of fresh-picked blackberries on a warm afternoon, followed by flavors of chocolate, cherries, blackberries and even blueberries. It's a robust, mouth-filling wine that is delicious now and is likely to improve with a few years of patience. (2,500 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Cliff Creek 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Southern Oregon, $24

This Rogue Valley winery also has a tasting room in the growing wine community of Carlton, Ore., southwest of Portland. uber-winemaker Joe Dobbes crafts the wines for Cliff Creek with great results. This offers elegant aromas of rose petals, cola, licorice and blueberries, as well as juicy flavors of Van cherries, touches of citrus and blueberries. The tight, focused tannins and ample acidity bode well for aging this Cab. (150 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Glacial Lake Missoula Wine Co. 2005 Kestrel Vineyard Deluge, Yakima Valley, $40

With its name, this winery in Blaine, Wash., pays tribute to the Ice Age floods that shaped the Columbia Valley more than 10,000 years ago. The grapes for the Cab-based blend come from one of the older vineyards in the Yakima Valley. It offers telltale aromas of sweet herbs, black currants, spices and cedar, followed by big, juicy flavors of cherries, coffee, leather, chocolate and black plums. Its well-managed tannins provide just the right level of structure to give this backbone for pairing with roasted meats or several years in the cellar. (252 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Powers Winery 2006 Coyote Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $25

Longtime Washington winemaker Greg Powers uses grapes from the warm Wahluke Slope to craft a wine of power and depth. This opens with classic aromas of black olives, pie cherries and a bit of oak, followed by a smooth, fruit-driven entry with black cherries, ripe plums and hints of chocolate. It's a well-structured wine that will pair well with prime rib, lamb chops with a balsamic reduction or beef Bourguignon. (400 cases, 14% alc.)

Sawtooth Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Snake River Valley, $25

Idaho's second-largest winery also is one of its oldest. The experience shows with its Cabernet Sauvignon, a grape that is coming into its own in the high-elevation volcanic soils of the Snake River Valley. This fascinating Cab opens with a complex melding of aromas, including minerality, blueberries, moist earth and tobacco, followed by flavors of ripe berries, forest floor and cherry pipe tobacco. A sense of sweetness carries throughout and deep, pleasing tannins back up this rich wine. (200 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $32

Jarrod Boyle manages the 243-acre estate vineyards and makes the wine for this Prosser, Wash., producer (which also has a tasting room in Woodinville). This release from estate fruit opens up with sensual aromas of blackberries, marionberries, oak, leather and chocolate, followed by luscious flavors of ripe cherries, plums and Baker's chocolate. Moderate tannins provide just the right amount of backbone to pair this with lamb chops, veal or a T-bone. (343 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Barnard Griffin Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $40

After three decades of making wine in Washington's Columbia Valley, Rob Griffin is dialed into exactly the grapes he wants each year. For this reserve Cab, he relied on fruit from two famed vineyards: Sagemoor near Pasco and Champoux in the Horse Heaven Hills. The result is a wine with aromas of sweet herbs, dark earthiness, blueberries and herbs de Provence, followed by juicy flavors of black cherries and blueberries backed with substantial but well-managed tannins. This is a meat lovers wine, so pair with a slightly seared sirloin just off the grill. (508 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $16

This is, by far, the biggest production of Cabernet Sauvignon for Washington's flagship winery. Winemaker Bob Bertheau and his team relied upon many vineyards, including grapes from Canoe Ridge and Cold Creek estate blocks. The result is a deliciously complex wine - especially for the price. it opens with aromas of gorgeous black cherries, black currants, huckleberries, sweet spices and Mexican chocolate, followed by elegant flavors of black cherries, ripe dark plums and milk chocolate, all backed up with modest tannins and perky acidity. (166,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Columbia Crest 2006 Wautoma Springs Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $35

Ray Einberger doesn't just make massive lots of wine for Washington's largest producer. He also likes to play with small lots that strike him as special. The vineyard for this release is near Ste. Michelle's Cold Creek Vineyard, a warm area north of the Yakima Valley. This opens with aromas of black cherries, minerality, leather and chocolate, followed by dark flavors of ripe plums, black cherries, bittersweet chocolate and black licorice. It's a well-crafted and balanced wine. (300 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Hogue Cellars 2006 Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $16

Co Dinn and his team of winemakers at this Prosser, Wash., giant are selective about the grapes that go into this mid-level label for Hogue Cellars. The care shows in this nicely priced Cab, which opens with aromas of shaved Ghiradelli chocolate, black cherries and blackberries. On the palate are flavors of Van cherries and a fair bit of complex oak notes. The moderate tannins back up all the fruit for a lengthy finish. (39,906 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Merry Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $36

Montana native Patrick Merry is one of the leaders of the small but growing Palouse wine region. For this Cab, he reaches south into the Walla Walla Valley for fruit. The result is a wine with aromas of black olives, blackberries, chocolate, cherries and something that reminded us of a summer campfire on the beach. The palate is loaded with flavors of black olives, blackberries, mocha and cherries. Chocolate-laden tannins provide just the right amount of balance. (66 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Sineann 2007 Block One Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $72

Sineann owner/winemaker Peter Rosback acquired some very special grapes for this release. This Cab uses fruit from the original 1972 plantings at Mercer Ranch Vineyards, now Champoux, making them some of the oldest vines in the state. This opens with aromas of black olives, hints of menthol and red and black currants, followed by a fruit-driven palate that includes black licorice, dark chocolate and a hint of smokiness. It's a very complex wine that probably is way too young - and special - to be drinking quite yet. (72 cases, 15.4% alc.)

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $32

Michael Sebastiani, who commutes from Northern California to this Hood River, Ore., producer, is the winemaker behind Cathedral Ridge. He used grapes from Bangsund and Ashmore vineyards, both in The Dalles, Ore. It provides aromas of cherry jam, cedar, sweet herbs and moist earth. The ripeness provided by this warm area near the Columbia River reveals flavors of pomegranates, black cherries and sweet plums. It's a sublime wine with notes of rosemary and finely tuned tannins. (348 cases, 14.2% alc.)

San Juan Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $20

This winery is nestled on San Juan Island near the town of Friday Harbor, Wash. The fruit for this Cab, however, came from across the Cascades in Washington's oldest grape-growing region. This wine reveals aromas of freshly picked cherries, vanilla, mint and forest floor, followed by flavors of raspberries, red cherries and dark plums. Fine tannins offer youthful accessibility and balance that props up the flavors for a lengthy finish. (324 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Sparkman Cellars 2006 Kingpin Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $56

Owner/winemaker Chris Sparkman runs the Waterfront Seafood Grill in Seattle during the day and his high-end Woodinville winery in his "spare" time. The vast majority of the grapes from this big Cab comes from famed Klipsun Vineyard. It opens with aromas of blueberries, black cherries, wild strawberries and even a hint of sage, followed by layered flavors of black cherries, black currants and hints of cherry pipe tobacco. It's a complex and layered wine, and conventional wisdom dictates that this should hit its prime in a decade - and last well beyond that. (150 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $32

As one drives east on Highway 12 into the Walla Walla Valley, the first vineyard on the right is Ash Hollow, the estate fruit for this winery. This wine exhibits aromas of plum jam on toast, along with ripe blackberries, followed by flavors of dark fruit backed with hints of leather. Fine, silky tannins provide elegant balance. (450 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $18

Indian Wells is a vineyard on the warm Wahluke Slope from which Ste. Michelle has purchased grapes for years. This wine is named for the vineyard, though not all the grapes necessarily come from there, as Ste. Michelle refers to the area as the "Indian Wells district." Regardless, this is a delicious and nicely priced Cab with sweet oak aromas, as well as hints of fresh-picked thyme, dark chocolate and dark fruit. On the palate are flavors of President plums, a hint of spearmint and a velvety texture. It's an approachable, well-rounded wine. (24,000 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Sagelands Vineyards 2005 Doval Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $20

This Diageo-owned winery in the western Yakima Valley began producing this vineyard-designated wine with the 2002 vintage and likes the fruit from this Wahluke Slope vineyard so much, it continues today. This Cab reveals aromas of black plums, blackberries, freshly ground espresso and underlying succulent spices. A bold entry leads to flavors of rich, ripe, dark fruit backed with suave tannins and an elegant finish. (295 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Watermill Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $24

This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) and Merlot comes from a producer in Milton-Freewater, an Oregon town in the Walla Walla Valley. The grapes are from McClellan and Seven Hills vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley, along with Lewis Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It's a delicious wine with aromas of chocolate, raspberries, mushrooms and vanilla, followed by flavors of blueberries, black raspberries and peppercorns. Moderate tannins provide background music and all the structure you need to pair it with pork, beef or lamb. (320 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Columbia Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $20

Kerry Norton honed his skills as winemaker for fellow Ascentia winery Covey Run and now oversees one of Washington's oldest wineries. This Cab reveals complex aromas of black plums, black cherries, chocolate and even hints of peaches, followed by bold flavors of chocolate, black licorice, mint, anise and ripe cherries. Ample tannins provide plenty of structure. (14,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $19 CDN

The highest-ranking B.C. Cabernet Sauvignon comes from one of the province's iconic producers, a longtime Vincor winery in the important southern Okanagan Valley district. This wine opens with aromas of chocolate, black currants, blueberries and even sausage, followed by a rich entry that leads to luscious flavors of dark fruit, spices and mild oak. (4,400 cases, 14% alc.)

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards 2006 Dark Horse Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $25 CDN

This southern Okanagan Valley vineyard is one of winemaker Sandor Mayer's favorites. This vintage reveals aromas of blueberries, blackberries, red peppercorns and mellow oak, followed by flavors of red currants, pomegranates and hints of chocolate, all backed with firm tannins. (152 cases, 14% alc.)

Martinez & Martinez 2006 Cesár Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, $20

This wine is named for a favorite nephew of the Martinez family, who planted its estate vineyard on famed Phinny Hill in 1981. This is a bright, expressive wine with aromas of raspberries, pencil shavings and cherries, followed by ripe, plump flavors of red and black fruit atop a rich, silky palate. (125 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Obelisco 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $60

This 30-acre vineyard is one of the new players on Red Mountain. Dick Shaw, who oversees other vineyards on the famous ridge in the eastern Yakima Valley, is part of the ownership group here, along with Doug Long (a Napa Valley veteran) and Paul Kaltinick. The inaugural vintage is a beauty, with aromas of dark fruit melding with cedar shavings and hints of smoke, followed by lush flavors of black cherries, huckleberries and chocolate. (300 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Powers Winery 2006 Champoux Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $30

The Powers family in Kennewick, Wash., is one of four winery partners who own a piece of famed Champoux Vineyards, and winemaker Greg Powers makes this reserve-level wine annually. It offers aromas of sweet oak alongside ripe cherries, followed by lingering flavors of blueberries, chocolate and lingonberries. It's still quite youthful and is likely to continue to improve with some patience in the cellar. (975 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Sparkman Cellars 2006 Stella Mae, Columbia Valley, $42

Owner/winemaker Chris Sparkman named this big red for his eldest daughter. Its pedigree is impressive, including fruit from Klipsun, Lewis, Hedges, Ciel du Cheval and Wahluke Slope vineyards. The resulting wine is fascinating, with aromas of cherries, oak spices and a dusty road after a rainstorm. On the palate are intense, dense flavors of bold cherries and ripe black currants backed with bright acidity and moderate tannins. (250 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Whitestone Winery 2006 Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $24

The owners of this Wilbur, Wash., winery like to tell the story of how vineyards graced the shoreline of the Columbia River until Grand Coulee Dam flooded the area. Walter and Judy Haig planted their new vineyard beginning in 1994 and have wonderful fruit to go with that legend. This new release offers aromas of pomegranates, bright cherries, chocolate and mild oak, followed by bold flavors of black currants, ripe plums, sweet chocolate and a hint of mint. (200 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Woodward Canyon Winery 2006 Artist Series #15 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $49

When Rick Small launched his "Artist Series" Cab, it showcased Canoe Ridge Vineyards. Other grapes have crept into the blend over the years, often the finest in the state. This includes some of his favorites, including Champoux, DuBrul, Charbonneau, Sagemoor and Woodward Canyon. The wine is a winner with aromas of cherries, vanilla and chocolate, followed by hedonistic flavors of black cherries, oak and lingering chocolate. (2,795 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Cadaretta 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $40

Veteran Walla Walla winemaker and French emigre Virginie Bourgue oversees the operation for this hot new property in Walla Walla. This new release offers up aromas of boysenberries and marionberries along with dark chocolate and mint, followed by bold, luscious flavors of ripe dark fruit and ample acidity and tannin. (1,884 cases, 15.4% alc.)

Claar Cellars 2006 White Bluffs Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $19

The Whitelatch family farms nearly 100 acres of grapes on dramatic bluffs overlooking the Columbia River north of Pasco, Wash., with a tasting room along the interstate in Zillah. This affordable Cab offers aromas of black and red currants, sweet plums and pie cherries, followed by bold flavors of cherries, blackberries and freshly brewed coffee. It's a rich wine through the lengthy finish. (240 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Kiona Vineyards Winery 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $35

Winemaker Scott Williams' family was the first to farm this ridge in the eastern Yakima Valley for wine grapes, back in the early 1970s. He used estate fruit for this reserve-level Cab. It's a powerful wine with enchanting aromas of oak, black cherries, saddle leather and cocoa powder, followed by graceful flavors of huckleberries, dark cherries and a hint of cola. (217 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Silvan Ridge 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Rogue Valley, $24

One of the southern Willamette Valley's largest wineries, Silvan Ridge near Eugene, Ore., has been going strong since 1979. This Cab from Southern Oregon opens with aromas of oregano, black cherries, vanilla, smoke and black olives, followed by dense, ripe flavors of black currants and black plums. Modest tannins and elegant oak notes offer nice complexity through the impressive finish. (188 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $20

Since 1991, Joy Andersen has overseen winemaking for this Ste. Michelle Wine Estates property. And through the years, she has made those wines in various facilities from the Wahluke Slope to the Horse Heaven Hills until getting a permanent home in Prosser, Wash. This Reserve-level Cab opens with a beautiful nose of huckleberries, black cherries and cedar, followed by elegant dark fruit backed with nice acidity and modest tannins. (600 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Spangler Vineyards 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Southern Oregon, $26

Pat and Loree Spangler have taken the old La Garza Cellars in Roseburg, Ore., to great heights, including a Platinum from Wine Press Northwest. This Cab continues the tradition with aromas of pie cherries, huckleberries and chocolate, followed by gentle flavors of raspberries and cherries, all backed with mild tannins. (324 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Two Mountain Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $28

Since 2002, brothers Matthew and Patrick Rawn have been producing superb wines from their location in the Rattlesnake Hills town of Zillah, Wash. This Cab opens with aromas of sweet spices and black currants, followed by impressive flavors of black and red fruits and moderate tannins. (363 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $38 CDN

One of the southern Okanagan Valley's most impressive facilities includes vineyards, a tasting room, a restaurant and guest villas. The wine is delicious, as well. This Cab opens with aromas of bread crust, sausage and black fruit, followed by flavors of dark fruit backed with bold tannins. The wine is all but sold out since a positive review appeared in the Globe & Mail in Toronto earlier this year. (1,355 cases, 14% alc.)

Lindsay Cellars 2004 Del Rio Vineyard Caberent Sauvignon, Rogue Valley, $48

This ultra-premium label for Stone Wolf Vineyards is in McMinnville, Ore., though the grapes for this came from famed Del Rio Vineyard near Medford. The resulting wine is loaded with aromas of pomegranates, cherries and cedar, followed by bright, approachable flavors of red berries backed with pleasing tannins and mild oak. (100 cases, 15.3% alc.)

Skylite Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Most of the fruit for this wine comes from Skylite Cellars' estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. It shows off aromas of fresh dill, pie cherres and cedar, followed by flavors of juicy Van cherries and notes of spearmint. (100 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Spangler Vineyards 2006 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Southern Oregon, $50

Owner/winemaker Pat Spangler's upper-end Cab from estate grapes is a superb red with good complexity from first whiff through the lengthy finish. It opens with well-balanced aromas of oak, chocolate, dark fruit, toffee and sweet herbs, followed by flavors of raspberries, black cherries and chocolate. This is a well-built wine with good tannic grip on the finish. (160 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Trust Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $36

This well-made Cab from a young producer in Walla Walla, Wash., uses grapes from top vineyards such as Phinny Hill and Champoux in the Horse Heaven Hills and Sagemoor's Bacchus block in the Columbia Valley, as well as some Walla Walla Valley Merlot. It's a luscious wine with aromas and flavors of blackberries, bing cherries and a rich smokiness that provides us with fond memories of a summer beach campfire. (235 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Sineann 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $30

Owner/winemaker Peter Rosback's mainstream Cab is one of only about six or seven he crafts in his Newberg, Ore., winery. This offers aromas of blackberries, cherries and bittersweet chocolate, followed by luscious flavors of marionberries, strawberries, a hint of dill and sweet dried herbs. The tannins are still a bit tightly wound, so we expect this to further improve with time. (400 cases, 14.8% alc.)

CedarCreek Estate Winery 2006 Platinum Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $45 CDN

American expat Tom Di Bello is closing in on his first full decade in British Columbia after tours in California, Australia and Washington. His wines at this Kelowna producer have been consistently superb, and this Cab is no exception. It opens with aromas of rich blackberries, slate and dark chocolate and palate-coating flavors of black cherries, blackberries and a bit of Baker's chocolate. (502 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Girardet Wine Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Umpqua Valley, $25

The father-son team of Philippe and Marc Girardet is one of the most underrated in the Southern Oregon wine scene, having first planted their estate vineyard in 1971. This Cab from Umpqua Valley grapes opens with aromas of plums, alder smoke and minerals, followed by flavors of ripe black plums and even cranberries. It's a fairly juicy palate though backed with solid tannins. (436 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Recommended

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $25

Legend has it this ridge along the Columbia River was named by Lewis & Clark as they floated by heading to the Pacific. We don't necessarily see the canoe, but we see why wine grapes are popular here. This wine reveals aromas of dusty cherries and something that reminds us of a dusty country road after a summer rainstorm. On the palate, it's a muscular wine with big cherry and wild strawberry notes backed with tight, focused tannins. (3,000 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2006 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $35

Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker's newest release of Cab is a richly structured red with aromas and flavors of black fruit backed with suave tannins and ripe goodness on the midpalate. This is still pretty young, and we would like to see what develops in the next year or so. (220 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Lake Chelan Winery 2005 Rivers Bend Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $28

This winery on the north shore of Lake Chelan is famous for its barbecues amid the vines, and this Cab is made for just such an occasion, thanks to its aromas and flavors of plums, blackberries, dark chocolate and silky tannins. (749 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Columbia Winery 2005 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $30

The relationship between grower Mike Sauer and winemaker David Lake is legendary, and this is one of the last wines Lake worked on before he retired. It reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, huckleberries and mint with chocolaty tannins that lead to a moderate finish. (1,000 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Gilbert Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $32

Three generations of the Gilbert family oversee this operation in Yakima, Wash. These grapes come from the warm Wahluke Slope and reveal plenty of ripeness, showing off aromas and flavors of dark plums, boysenberries and sweet spices. Gentle acidity gives this youthful approachability. (110 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Mannina Cellars 2006 Birch Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $30

Winemaker Don Redman crafted this wine from nearby grapes, with just under three barrels making it into this wine. It shows off aromas of black olives, pencil shavings and oak, followed by ample black fruit and chocolate undertones. (62 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Airfield Estates 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $32

Using estate grapes from vines planted in 1989, winemaker Marcus Miller has put together a reserve-level Cab that has yet to show its full potential - though we can begin to get a peek at what it could evolve into. It's a bold wine with inviting aromas and flavors of chocolate, black currants and tar, all backed up with rich tannins that are fairly harmonious. (189 cases, 15.5% alc.)

Columbia Crest 2006 Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $8

Not surprisingly, the least-expensive wine in our judging also is its most widely available. This nicely priced Cab reveals aromas and flavors of roasted coffee beans, raspberries, vanilla and a touch of herbs. Enjoy this with slices of prosciutto. (225,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Columbia Crest 2006 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $11

This is one of America's more respected value-priced wines, thanks to its consistently high quality and nationwide availability. This vintage reveals aromas and flavors of sweet herbs, simmering tomato sauce, dark-toned fruit and underlying chocolate. Modest tannins and the price tag make this a drink-now wine. (200,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

E.B. Foote Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $18

Owner/winemaker Sherrill Miller uses grapes from Graves and Milbrandt vineyards to craft this Cabernet Sauvignon. It provides aromas and flavors of oak, pomegranate and dark, leathery notes throughout. A tasty wine at an affordable price. (183 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Hogue Cellars 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $30

As far as we can recollect, this is the first Hogue wine to carry the Wahluke Slope AVA on the label. The region's warm climate contributed to the luscious ripeness in this Cabernet, which provides aromas and flavors of dark plums, rich raspberries, oak, chocolate and leather notes. (1,413 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Maryhill Winery 2006 Proprietor's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $36

Our 2009 Washington Winery of the Year used grapes from Tudor Hill, Eagle Ranch and Conner Lee vineyards for this reserve-level Cab. It offers aromas and flavors of rich dark chocolate, ripe black fruit and whispers of smoke. (900 cases, 13.85% alc.)

Pepper Bridge Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $55

This winery near the Oregon border in the midst of the Walla Walla Valley uses grapes from its eponymous vineyard for this highly regarded Cabernet Sauvignon. It provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, blackberries and dark chocolate, all backed with elegant underlying tannins. (2,494 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Ward Johnson Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $25

This urban winery at the foot of Seattle's Queen Anne Hill uses grapes from famed Klipsun and Red Mountain vineyards for this delicious Cab. It shows off aromas and flavors of blue and black fruits, chocolate and underlying oak, all backed with bright acidity and modest tannins. (115 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Reserve Caberent Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $44

This Hood River, Ore., winery relies on fruit primarily from the surrounding areas, including warmer spots around The Dalles. This big Cab is loaded with ripe black fruit, including blackberries, black plums and hints of black currants. They meld with notes of chocolate and oak for a wine that has yet to show its full potential. (196 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Couvillion 2006 Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $27

Owner/winemaker Jill Noble used grapes from legendary Sagemoor Vineyard in the Columbia Basin for this Cab. It is a bold wine with aromas and flavors of dark cherries, black currants, black licorice and hints of olives. (225 cases, 14.2% alc.)

DiStefano Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $32

California native Hillary Sjolund crafts the wines for this longtime boutique producer in Woodinvile, Wash. This Cab offers aromas of minerality, vanilla extract and black cherries, followed by bright, racy flavors of cherres, raspberries and chocolate. (828 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $26

The mainstream Cab for this Walla Walla Valley winery is a good one, with aromas of sweet spices, vanilla, pomegranates and dusty cherries, followed by flavors of Van cherries, vanilla and even hints of almonds. (852 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Gard Vintners 2006 Lawrence Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $35

This young winery has a long farming history on Washington's Frenchman Hills north of the Saddle Mountains and runs its tasting room in the ever-growing Woodinville Warehouse District. This wine comes from estate grapes and exhibits delicious aromas and flavors of jammy black cherries and sweet spices. (107 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Lake Chelan Winery 2004 Rivers Bend Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $28

The Kludt family is the modern pioneer of viticulture in the Lake Chelan area, first converting orchards to vineyards in 1998. This Cab from estate grapes revals aromas and flavors of ripe black fruit backed with notes of oak and solid tannins. (1,398 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $26

This Walla Walla winery is gaining a strong reputation for its delicious reds and whites, and this luscious Cab is no exception. It shows off aromas of ripe plums, dense blackberries and dark chocolate, all backed with fairly tightly wound tannins that need a little time in the cellar. (900 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Boudreaux Cellars 2005 Champoux & Loess Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $100

Owner/winemaker Rob Newsom acquired some of the state's most coveted grapes for this wine, including Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills and Leonetti's Loess Vineyards in Walla Walla. It's a sturdy wine with juicy flavors of blackberries, ripe plums and dark chocolate, all backed with bright acidity and even tannins. (150 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Desert Wind Winery 2006 Desert Wind Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $18

One of the largest vineyards on the vast Wahluke Slope is run by one of the largest family owned wineries in Washington. This Prosser producer has created a showpiece winery that includes a vast tasting room and guest rooms overlooking the Yakima River. This Cab is delicious and affordable. It shows off aromas and flavors of minerality, black cherries and hints of chocolate and oak. (5,236 cases, 15% alc.)

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2006 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $26 CDN

This is the upper-tier wine for one of B.C.'s largest wineries. Jackson-Triggs brings its grapes from all over the Okanagan Valley, though primarily from the warmer southern end near the U.S. border. This reveals aromas and flavors of boysenberries, sweet cherries and raspberries, all backed with luscious tannins. (800 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Kestrel Vintners 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $22

Kestrel Vintners has been producing wines of distinction since 1995 and owns one of the older and most-respected plantings in the vast Yakima Valley. This is a delicious and well-crafted red wine with aromas and flavors of red and black cherries, shaved dark chocolate and hints of vanilla. (2,096 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Saint Laurent 2006 Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $22

Craig Mitrakul is one of the rising young winemaking stars in Washington, and he oversees winemaking for this family operation in the Wenatchee area town of Malaga. The grapes come from an estate vineyard planted a decade ago by owner Mike Mrachek. This is a tasty Cab with classic aromas of ripe plums, hints of oak and a dab of dark chocolate. (825 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Wedge Mountain Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $40

Owner/winemaker Charlie McKee used grapes from Scott Williams' north block of grapes on Red Mountain. The wine was aged for 1,000 days in new French oak. The result is a luscious wine with aromas and flavors of black currants, sweet spices and ripe plums. (72 cases, 14% alc.)

Amavi Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $28

Jean-François Pellet oversees winemaking for this sister winery to Pepper Bridge, also in Walla Walla. It's a beautiful wine with aromas and flavors of minerality, blackberries and black cherries. It's all backed with rich, sturdy tannins. (5,974 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Kiona Vineyards Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $25

Kiona is the oldest winery on Red Mountain (as well as Washington as a whole). Second-generation winemaker Scott Williams crafted this older release, which exhibits aromas and flavors of blueberries, plums and cedar, all backed with pleasing tannins. (1,500 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Sineann 2007 Baby Poux Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $64

Not quite two barrels made the cut for this reserve-level Cab from one of Washington's most famous vineyards (Champoux). It's a dark, brooding wine that is still pretty tightly wound and will benefit from some time hiding in your cellar. At this time, it is beginning to reveal aromas and flavors of vanilla bean, black cherries and hints of violets. (48 cases, 15.1% alc.)

Covey Run Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $26

Kate Michaud oversees the winemaking for this large Washington brand based in Woodinville. Her experience ranges from Walla Walla to California to New Zealand. This is a tasty red with aromas and flavors of black cherries, blackberries, red plums and hints of black licorice on the finish. (5,175 cases, 13.5% alc.)

DiStefano Winery 2005 15th Anniversary Ottimo, Columbia Valley, $60

"Ottimo" is the fanciful name given to this Woodinville, Wash., producer's barrel-select Cabernet Sauvignon. This edition provides aromas and flavors of blackberries, boysenberries and hints of oak. Well-structured tannins provide a solid backbone. (175 cases, 15.3% alc.)

Duck Pond Cellars 2004 Desert Wind Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $10

The Fries family straddles both sides of the Columbia River, with operations in Prosser, Wash., and Dundee, Ore. This wine's grapes come from estate vineyards on Washington's Wahluke Slope but go behind the family's Oregon label. It's a rich wine with aromas and flavors of raspberries and sweet cherries and will pair well with roast beef. (8,140 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Novelty Hill Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $25

Former Ste. Michelle head winemaker Mike Januik crafts the wines for this Woodinville, Wash., winery, which owns vineyards on the Frenchman Hills in the Columbia Valley. This Cab exhibits aromas and flavors of strawberries, blueberries and plums with hints of chocolate around the edges. (3,832 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Church & State Wines 2007 Coyote Bowl Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $35 CDN

Church & State, our 2009 British Columbia Winery to Watch, has its operations on Vancouver Island but reaches across the province to the Okanagan Valley for its grapes. This Cab provides fascinating aromas of sandalwood, as well as flavors of cranberries, red cherries and red currants. It's fairly tannic on the finish but well backed with ample fruit. (233 cases, 14.7% alc.)

McKinley Springs Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $22

McKinley Springs is a 2,000-acre vineyard and winery in Washington's Horse Heaven Hills owned and operated by the Andrews family. It uses grapes from the original 1980 plantings, as well as some from the vineyard's newer areas. The wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of plums, blackberries and sweet spices. (725 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Sovereign Cellars 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, $36

This tiny producer in Olympia, Wash., has crafted a delicious wine using grapes from one of the state's hottest regions. This opens with aromas of sarsaparilla, cedar and white strawberries, followed by flavors of pie cherries, black currants and whispers of oak. (34 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe Winery 2006 The Teacher Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $20

One of Stan Clarke's many claims to fame in Washington wine lore was that he introduced Wade Wolfe and Becky Yeaman, who eventually married and started this Prosser winery. Clarke, who passed away in late 2007, taught elementary school in the Yakima Valley and helped budding winemakers at Walla Walla Community College. This Cab honors Clarke on the name. It shows off aromas and flavors of pie cherries, sweet spices, black and red currants and something that reminded us of teriyaki. (300 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Boomtown Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $15

Dusted Valley Vintners in Walla Walla started this value label a couple of years ago, and it has been a hit. This delicious and affordable Cab provides aromas and flavors of cola, blackberries, cherries and Wheat Thins. It's straightforward and easy drinking. (5,000 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Nelms Road 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $24

Woodward Canyon Winery's second label has entered its second decade and is as popular as ever. Owner/winemaker Rick Small uses it to "declassify" barrels and lots that don't quite fit into his Woodward Canyon program, so the wine ends up here and is a value as well as delicious. This new release shows off aromas and flavors of cherries, cranberries, red and black currants and Baker's chocolate. (5,521 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Northwest Cab by the numbers

Here are a few interesting numbers from our big Cabernet Sauvignon judging:

-- We judged 134 Cabs and reviewed 108 of them. Of these, 22 were rewarded with our top "Outstanding" rating, 46 earned our "Excellent" rating, and 40 received a "Recommended" rating.

-- The wines reviewed here represent 782,058 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon produced in the Pacific Northwest.

-- The average price of the 108 wines reviewed was $31.39.

-- The average alcohol was 14.26%.

-- The following appellations were represented: Columbia Valley (45), Walla Walla Valley (12), Horse Heaven Hills (9), Red Mountain (7), Wahluke Slope (7), Washington (7), Yakima Valley (6), Okanagan Valley (6), Southern Oregon (3), Rogue Valley (3), Snake River Valley (2) and Umpqua Valley (1).

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