PROSSER, Wash. - Snoqualmie Vineyards is one of those rare places where even its high-end reserve wines are bargains.
Snoqualmie sells no wine for more than $26, and many of their wines are in the $10 to $14 range.
This baby sister to Columbia Crest and Chateau Ste. Michelle is no secret to discerning wine folks, who know that winemaker Joy Andersen is at the top of her form when turing out everything from a Barbera to something called a "naked" Riesling.
Joel Klein, previously head of winemaking at Ste. Michelle, established Snoqualmie in 1983.
In 1991, Stimson Lane Vineyards & Estates, the former name of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, purchased Snoqualmie, acquiring the Saddle Mountain label, a Mattawa facility and lease rights to Snoqualmie's Western Washington tasting room. Joy Andersen became Snoqualmie's winemaker in 1991.
Prior to moving into its Prosser facility, Snoqualmie was made inside the cavernous Columbia Crest winery in Paterson. It was there where Andersen honed her winemaking skill under the tutelage of Doug Gore, now head of all winemaking for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.
In 2001, it was time for the "little sister" to go out on its own, and Snoqualmie moved to Prosser.
Like Columbia Crest and Chateau Ste. Michelle, Snoqualmie has an extensive lineup of wines ranging from that Barbera to a "Naked" Gewurztraminer. Don't let the word "naked" upset you, as it is a term being used by several wineries these days to describe grapes grown organically.
Not all Snoqualmie wines are termed "naked," but the list is growing.
There is no fee to taste a dozen Snoqualmie wines and even the reserve wines can be tasted for a $5 fee.
Snoqualmie reserve seem to being holding up well as I had an opportunity to try five of these gems.
2001 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley: There's still good life left here with oak, light chocolate and a hint of rosemary/spice aromas along with generous marionberry flavors.
2001 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley: A wonderful bouquet of oak melds with berries that lead to good expressive fruit flavors. There is a sense of spice at the finish.
2002 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley: Robust and tasty, starting with chocolate and pipe tobacco, leading to ripe Bing cherries and sturdy tannins.
2003 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: An aromatic delight with chocolate, herbs and a touch of lavender. There is still lots of body and flavors of blueberries and plums.
2004 Rosebud Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Old vines from the Wahluke Slope give this red characteristics of toast and nuts with some tobacco aromas. It's very juicy, easy drinking, with ripe Bing cherry flavors.
My overall impression of these five wines is they are very drinkable now but probably will start losing some quality by around 2012, so drink them soon.
On to the current vintages of reserve wines.
2005 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $26: Jammy black fruit flavors are set up by aromas of blackberries laced with tobacco. The tannins are soft and elegant.
2005 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $25: Leather and spice greet you with dark Bing cherries taking hold lead to a smooth lush finish.
2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $25: Very easy drinking with sweet oak aromas, red currant flavors and supple tannins.
2007 Barbera, Columbia Valley, $16: A nutmeg and vanilla beginning leads to a boysenberry-jam finish.
Snoqualmie is noted just as well for its low-cost reds and whites that can be found for around $10 at times.
2007 Naked Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $13: Juicy citrus aromas and flavors with a clean finish.
2008 Naked Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley, $12: Meyer lemon aromas, spice and mouthwatering grapefruit flavors.
2008 Naked Riesling, Columbia Valley, $12: Blossoms with easy-drinking clean orchard fruit flavors.
2007 Naked Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $13: Outstanding for the price, showing oak and balanced berry flavors.
2006 Naked Merlot, Columbia Valley, $13: Sweet oak, spice and rich cherry flavors.
Snoqualmie makes other wines that aren't labeled "naked," which are also very good and bargains.
2008 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $10: A rich tropical fruit and citrus chardonnay, perfect as a cocktail.
2008 Winemaker's Select Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9: Loaded with aromas and flavors including apricots, lemons and honey. The residual sugar is 6.5 percent.
2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $10: Luscious and loaded with dark smooth dark cherry flavors.
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $10: A bargain that usually sells for $16. It's showing oak and spice, big tannins and berry flavors.
2007 Whistle Stop Red, Cabernet-Merlot, Columbia Valley, $10: The winery's most popular wine and for good reason. It's a bargain and tasty with black fruit and supple tannins.
2007 Muscat Canelli, Columbia Valley, $10: A classic with 5.2 percent residual sugar. Beguiling peach and apricot aromas lead to lingering dried fruit and honey sensations on the palate.
BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest's tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.