Here are the white wines reviewed in our Recent Releases section of the Summer 2009 issue of Wine Press Northwest. Wines are categorized by variety and style.
Chardonnay
Airfield Estates 2007 Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, 268 cases, 15.5% alc., $20
Excellent. It's unusual, but refreshing, to see a reserve-style Chardonnay such as this under a screwcap. Aromas of starfruit, pear and lemon dominate much of the French oak influence. Pear leads the aforementioned fruit on the palate, but creaminess and butterscotch arrive at the midpoint. Lemon juice acidity picks up for a lengthy finish, which exhibits vanilla extract.
Bonair Winery 2006 Chateau Puryear Vineyard Chardonnay, Rattlesnake Hills, 95 cases, 13.1% alc., $20
Recommended. Gail Puryear planted these vines in 1980, and his reserve style showcases an investment in French oak. Toasted oak, vanilla and white stone fruit aromas are followed by the same flavors featuring nice balance and Granny Smith peel in the finish.
Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, 13.9% alc., $20
Excellent. In his previous life, Freddy Arredondo was a globe-trotting chef. His wines are exceptionally food-worthy, including this rich and balanced Chardonnay. It opens with apricots, pear, sandalwood and toasted oak that's reminiscent of Cherrios. The drink spills across with more pear and white peach flavors, a line of minerality in the midpalate and citrus in the finish.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Indian Wells Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, 54,000 cases, 13.9% alc., $18
Excellent. Typically, the Indian Wells program is a fruit-forward style and not necessarily dedicated to its namesake vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. In this case, the nose of this Chardonnay is quite toasty with butterscotch, lanolin, vanilla and some pear. It's much more fruity on the palate with sweet pineapple, apricot and butterscotch up front, midpalate acidity, and a nice long finish of butterscotch. Pair this with pork or poultry seasoned with thyme or tarragon.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Old Vine Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, 189 cases, 14.1% alc., $30
Outstanding! The invitation at this Walla Walla winery is to "crack that cap," and here's another example of a serious wine guarded by screwcap. Aromas include pineapple, dusty pears, citrus, minerality and a touch oak. A creamy character awaits on the pour with more orchard and tropical fruit, getting a lift of lime on the back of the palate. This nearly flawless Chardonnay would reward scallops, bacon-wrapped canteloupe and a shrimp cocktail.
Gordon Brothers Family Estate 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 13.7% alc., $23
Recommended. Organically farmed fruit north of Pasco, Wash., was taken off Sept. 18. While 20 barrels were fermented, only 10 were selected for this. Citrus, sandalwood and vanilla aromas show signs of the French oak. Those barrels emerge more extensively on the palate in a creamy and round fashion. Nice late acidity lifts the apples and pears. Suggested fare includes grilled halibut with a fruit salsa.
Holmes Harbor Cellars 2006 Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, 91 cases, 12.9% alc., $24
Recommended. Greg Martinez invested nine months in French barrels, and it proved profitable for this new Whidbey Island winemaker. There's indeed oak in the bouquet, but there are plenty of hints at pears, orange and lemon. A buttery entry quickly yields to unsweetened lemon for a snappy midpalate, joined by tangerine and pear. A bit of toast at the end bodes well for cheese and crackers or clam dip.
Left Coast Cellars 2006 Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, 940 cases, 14.3% alc., $24
Excellent. Here's a rising young operation in Rickreall, Ore., that's beginning to consistently hit its stride. Dijon clones 75, 95 and 96 come together for a Chardonnay that leans away from oak, beginning in the nose with features of apples, pears, honeydew melon, a twist of lemon and wheat crackers in the corner. There's a tingling blast of kumquat on the palate, combining tartness with sweetness. Then comes pineapple and lengthy citrus acidity with the pith on the finish.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Pepetua Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, 950 cases, 13% alc., $35 CDN
Excellent. The pewter label adds a touch of class to this most expensive white produced by one of British Columbia's showpiece wineries. Osoyoos Vineyard Estate, just minutes north of Oroville, Wash., allowed John Simes to coax aromas of canteloupe, pears, banana, spiced apple, a dusty road and warm buttered toast. It's creamy and viscous on the entry with more pears and banana before giving way to food-friendly citrusy acidity.
Three Rivers Winery 2007 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, 1,305 cases, 14% alc., $19
Outstanding! Gulpable might be how British wine critic Jancis Robinson would describe this blend of fruit from Bacchus, Champoux, Weinbau and Sundance. The nose hints at oranges, limes, honeysuckle and lemon pepper. It boasts a rich and smooth entry as the citrusy acidity picks up on the midpalate with soft peaches in the finish.
Tsillan Cellars 2006 Estate Barrel Select Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, 403 cases, 13.4% alc., $25
Excellent. The vineyards at the Lake Chelan showpiece winery are coming into their own. Here, the oak embraces rather than overwhelms the starfruit and lemon zest nuances. The palate takes you on a ride, starting with a bit of sweetness with fresh Bartlett pears in a very light syrup, heightened by citrusy acidity in the midpalate, and finished with apples and oaky tones.
Ward Johnson Winery 2007 Sun River Vineyard Counterbalance Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, 168 cases, 13.6% alc., $21
Recommended. If you live on Queen Anne Hill in Seattle, then you might be familar with the Counterbalance neighborhood near this young winery. Granny Smith apples, baked Bosc pears, marshmallow and pine nuts go along way in describing the ins and outs of this wine, matured in neutral oak. The same fruit on the palate carries into pleasing minerality with a boatload of citrus acidity at the midpoint, and a blend of jasmine and honeysuckle in the finish. (Winery provided incorrect price for the print edition).
Westport Winery 2007 Shorebird Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 11.0% alc., $18
Excellent. This fledgling Western Washington winery produced a delicious Chardonnay from its debut vintage, opening with scents of Mandarin oranges, grapefruit, pears, apricot, marshmallow and lemon zest. Lots of flavors await with ripe pears and honeysuckle in a nice viscosity. Granny Smith tartness and citrus pith show up in the finish, suggesting a pairing with a shrimp omelette.
Woodward Canyon Winery 2007 Chardonnay, Washington, 841 cases, 14.1% alc., $39
Outstanding! In previous years, Rick Small flashed the French oak more so than with this vintage, so the results of this 50/50 blend from Celilo Vineyard and estate grapes are fruit-forward. Cherry blossoms, dusty apples, pineapple and a bit of passionfruit only begin to describe the bouquet. Inside, there's a theme of rich pineapple and citrus character, making for a juicy and balanced drink. Bright acidity on the midpalate harkens a remarkable explosion of the same fruit in the remarkable finish. Here's a Chardonnay that would be superb with fish, including tilapia served with chile lime butter.
Zimri Cellars 2006 Yamhill Vineyard Chardonnay, Yamhill-Carlton District, 183 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Recommended. Jason Bull elevated the profile of David Hill Vineyards & Winery and now has launched his line in Newberg, Ore. His debut includes this approachable and round wine with notes of pineapples, lemons and applesauce.
Riesling
Olsen Estates 2007 Estate Riesling, Yakima Valley, 420 cases, 12.6% alc., $18
Outstanding! Rising popularity of this German variety is bringing the spotlight back to Washington's oldest appellation, and this is a delightful and fruitful Riesling from a multi-generation farming family in Prosser. Aromas of sugared pink grapefruit, Orange Crush soda, honeysuckle and lychee don't disappoint your tongue. In fact, think of an adult Orange Crush with spritely acidity to balance the midpoint sweetness (1.9% residual sugar) in a bright fashion.
Pentâge Winery 2007 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, 230 cases, 13% alc., $19 CDN
Recommended. Classic Riesling notes of Granny Smith apple, lemons and petrol are accented by pulsating citrus of sweet pink grapefruit. It's finished quite dry and should pair well with a Crab Louie joined by homemade Thousand Island dressing.
Westport Winery 2007 Elk River Riesling, Columbia Valley, 288 cases, 11.0% alc., $22
Outstanding! A tribute to the Grays Harbor estuary on the Washington coast, here's a remarkable Riesling from winemaker Dan Wood. Beautiful fruity aromas include papaya, sectioned orange, lemon, honeysuckle and a bit of diesel. There's sweet orchard fruit on the palate, leading with Pink Lady apples and canned Bartlett pears with light syrup, all with a perfectly balanced structure for an off-dry Riesling.
Pinot Gris
King Estate 2007 Domaine Pinot Gris, Oregon, 4,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $25
Excellent. Since 1995, Bill Kremer has made wine at this sustainably farmed vineyard on this showpiece near Eugene. The designation "Domaine" means these grapes are off the estate. Of 72 Pinot Gris blocks, only six contribute to this fruit-forward offering that broadcasts aromas of apricot, tangerine, pineapple, tree-ripe pear and apple and lemon zest. Pleasant sweetness of apple, apricot and pear is on the entry with midpalate acidity, finished by apple peel and citrus pith on the finish. Enjoy with lemon chicken.
Left Coast Cellars 2007 The Orchards Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, 590 cases, 13% alc., $18
Excellent. Luke McCollom got his education in California and has been working these vines and the wines nearly from the start in 2003. His control on both ends allows for aromas of grapefruit, peaches, apple box and green olives. It's a bright wine on the palate, thanks to Golden Delicious apples and Anjou pears flavors, followed by mouthwatering grapefruit to balance the sweetness and some jasmine in the finish.
Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc
Amavi Cellars 2007 Semillon, Columbia Valley, 576 cases, 13.9% alc., $20
Recommended. Toasted bread, butterscotch and baked Fuji apple aromas beget a beginning of more apples and some tangerines on the palate. Notes of Rainier cherries impart sweet smoothness on the midpalate, followed by citrus pith on the finish.
Kettle Valley Winery 2007 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, 362 cases, 13.5% alc., $24 CDN
Recommended. Naramata Bench vineyards Barber and the estate King Drive were blended for a delicious drink of lemons and sweet pineapples that's creamy on the attack, then the acidity builds from the midpalate on back where dried apricots and more pineapple show. Enjoy this with pineapple and back bacon pizza or some pasta served with a cream sauce.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, 5,700 cases, 12.0% alc., $20
Excellent. While the winery is Kelowna, B.C., these grapes came from sites just north of the Canadian/U.S. border near Oliver and Osoyoos. There's a steady theme of orange oil throughout, backed by grapefruit, pineapple, lemon zest and some grassiness. That citrusy acidity hangs in the finish. Enjoy with a salad featuring arugula, endive and walnut vinaigrette.
Viognier
Cinder Wines 2008 Viognier, Snake River Valley, 260 cases 14% alc., $17
Excellent. Melanie Krause has matched the quality of her inaugural vintage with this blend of fruit from Sawtooth, Williamson and the organic Rocky Fence vineyards near Emmett. Its floral nose shows off apple blossoms, apricots, honey and just a hint of the partial barrel treatment. Tangerines and dried apricots fill the mouth with midpalate fruit and acidity, which funnels into a pleasing and long, buttery finish. She suggests pairing this with Asian fare, pork, quiche or seafood.
Pentâge Winery 2007 Viognier, Okanagan Valley, 130 cases, 13% alc., $23 CDN
Outstanding! Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie first planted their Lakeside Road winery in Penticton in 1997, and their efforts have firmly taken root. Alluring aromas are akin to ambrosia salad with an extra spoonful of Mandarin orange and Thompson seedless grapes, backed by lemon, lime, jasmine, minerality and fresh-cut grass. It's big and distinctive on the palate, too, with flavors of Granny Smith apple, Asian pear, gooseberry and river rock. Bright midpalate acidity leads to a finish of limes and grapefruit pith. Enjoy this on the patio with an albacore tuna sandwich and a kosher pickle.
Other whites
Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2008 Albariño, Umpqua Valley, 1,106 cases, 13.3% alc., $18
Recommended. Earl Jones' successful research regarding the viability of growing Tempranillo in southern Oregon allowed him to prove the same with this Spanish white. Granny Smith apples, grapefruit, flint, coconut, lychee and lemon zest tones surround the food-friendly structure of this remarkably crisp drink. Enjoy this with seafood dish or cheese and crackers with guava paste.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2007 Proprietor's Limited Release Marsanne, Yakima Valley, 41 cases, 12.7% alc., $20
Recommended. Rhône-style whites that lead with Marsanne are rare in the Northwest, but this established winery near Bellingham, Wash., assembled fruit from Destiny Ridge and Crawford vineyards. Peaches, apricot preserves and Bosc pear notes lead the way, with hints of almonds, lychee, jasmine in the background.
Pentâge Winery 2008 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley, 130 cases, 13% alc., $18 CDN
Outstanding! This winery grows its grapes and crafts its wine while overlooking picturesque Skaha Lake near Penticton, B.C. Mouthwatering aromas of tangerine, apricot, pear and apple include baking spices and a light touch of petrol. Stone fruit takes over on the palate with some minerality at the midpoint, then comes a beautiful flourish of lemons and lime in the crips finish.
Westport Winery 2007 Grays Harbor Gewürztraminer, Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 11% alc., $24
Excellent. It's unusual to see a Gewürz priced beyond the teens, but this offering should have a following. Pineapple is the leading aromatic, backed by orange, pears, apples and dried apricots. Frontal sweetness makes this a quaffer, with more orange and Juicy Fruit gum flavors on the entry. There's complexity from lavender, jasmine and a bit of spearmint in the background.
White blends
Airfield Estates 2007 Lightning White, Yakima Valley, 170 cases, 15.5% alc., $20
Excellent. Family vines near Black Rock Creek were in just their third leaf and cropped to a half-ton per acre, which accounts for the level of ripeness in this blend of Chardonnay (52%), Viognier (32%) and Roussanne. Nearly a year spent in neutral French oak explains the aromas of butterscotch candy, banana, dried apricot and pineapple. There is more pineapple and apricot in rich fashion across the palate with some bubblegum flavors and just a bit of citrus pith.
Le Chateau Winery 2007 Artisan Blend Castle, Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 13.9% alc., $24
Outstanding! Although winemaker Bruno Corneaux claims this blend of Sauvignon Blanc (80%) and Semillon was meant to age, it will be difficult to wait because it's so drinkable now. The wide-ranging bouquet spans apples and citrus, Juicy Fruit gum, cotton candy, pear served with brie, alder smoke and just a hint of Euphoria by Calvin Klein. There's a sweet entry of ambrosia salad with grapefruit and apples, then a tasty oak sensation akin to cotton candy melting in your mouth. Lingering acidity is that of a Granny Smith apple with a trace of lime in the finish.
Thurston Wolfe Winery 2007 PGV, Washington, 13.5% alc., $16
Excellent. Yakima Valley legend Wade Wolfe made the name easy to remember, the blend easy to like and the wine easy to get at by putting it under screwcap. His blend of Pinot Gris (43%) and Viognier (52%) includes a bit of Muscat Blanc (5%) to enhance the aromatics, which feature peaches, apples and lime. The rich and creamy entry of orange and pineapple achieves balance with refreshing acidity and a layer of minerality that's capped by a spoonful of lime sherbert. Suggested pairings include seafood with pasta or a fish taco at Anthony's.
Twisted Tree Vineyards and Winery 2008 Viognier-Roussanne, Okanagan Valley, 480 cases, 14.5% alc., $22 CDN
Outstanding! Progress gives tourists more reasons to pull into the border town of Osoyoos, B.C., and this young winery belonging to Chris and Beata Tolley demands a drive east through town. This blend of Rhône varieties unleashes a wealth of Key lime, apple and pear aromas with a bit of butterscotch in the back. Lime - envision the pulp and the rind - dominates the flavors, bringing with it huge acidity before a splash of 7Up sweetness in the finish.
Westport Winery 2007 Bordello Blonde, Columbia Valley, 160 cases, 11% alc., $20
Outstanding! The blending Gewürztraminer (75%) and Riesling sounds like a good idea, and it's carried out well by this new winery on the Washington coast. Pears, tangerine, orange Creamcicle and Mike's Hard Lemonade aromas carry onto the citrusy entry in a juicy fashion with an undertone of Pink Lady apple then orange zest in the finish.
Westport Winery 2007 Lighthouse White, Washington, 296 cases, 11% alc., $26
Recommended. An off-dry blend (2.9% residual sugar) of Riesling and Gewürztraminer delivers hints of Mandarin orange, dried pineapple, tangerine and lip-smacking margarita mix.
Sparkling wine
Icicle Ridge Winery 2006 Sparkling Syrah, Washington, 100 cases, 12.5% alc., $95
Recommended. From Leavenworth comes what is believed to be the most expensive sparkling wine ever produced in the state. Price aside, it's a tasty, albeit unusual, release featuring aromas of pomegranate, cranberries, blood orange and beet juice. While the bubbles don't percolate much in the glass, there's a good frothiness on the palate with a blast of black cherry and raspberry flavors. It's just a touch sweet, which is probably what you'd want with a red sparkler, yet it's backed up by lots of acidity.
Westport Winery NV Rapture of the Deep, Washington, 168 cases, 12.5% alc., $25
Outstanding! Here's a carbonated wine made from cranberries, but there's more beyond that berry. Aromas include strawberries, cherries, a bit of pech, a slice of banana and even a split-up Flintsone vitamin. Cranberry tartness, citrusy acidity and that bit of spritz make it supremely balanced and a fun adornment to a table of hot wings in the summer and turkey at Thanksgiving.
Dessert wines
Abiqua Wind Vineyard 2007 Sweet Tiffany Gewürztraminer, Williamette Valley, 125 cases, 14.5% alc., $18
Outstanding! Abiqua Creek provides drinking water to much of Silverton, Ore., and Pete Buffington makes something else pretty good to drink in this Salem suburb. Grapefruit spice in the nose is a giveaway of the variety, and this also is joined by tangerine, apricot marmalade and honeysuckle notes. The flavors are loaded with sweet apricots and bold Texas pink grapefruit, more honeysuckle and hints of botrytis in the midpalate, and some citrus pith in the finish. It's sweet (11.5% residual sugar) and delicious all the way through. It should marry well with a simple fresh-fruit dessert or over ice cream.
Lopez Island Winery NV Blackberry Wine, Washington, 45 cases, 11% alc., $20
Excellent. Certified organic berries, reportedly only slightly cultivated and grown on the island, send out notes of all sorts of fruit - including cranberries and pomegranates - but also lilac and rosehips. There's sweetness (5.5% residual sugar), but there's good balance and a spread of strawberry jelly in the finish.
Lopez Island Winery NV Organic Raspberry Wine, Washington, 120 cases, 10% alc., $20
Recommended. It's definitely raspberry with a bit of leafiness and mint for complexity and balance the sweetness (5.75% residual sugar). Sadly, Brent Charnley lost his source for the berries as flooding devasted this Snoqualmie Valley plot farmed by the Broer family.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Reserve Late Harvest Riesling, Okanagan Valley, 9% alc., $30 CDN
Excellent. There's a baseline of tangerine, peach and mango throughout this dessert offering, with aromas also including honeysuckle, beeswax, fresh-cut grass and a fistful of Cracker Jack. Peaches and mangos dominate the palate with balanced sweetness (14.5% residual sugar), medium viscosity and a piece of candy corn in the finish.
Thurston Wolfe Winery 2005 Sweet Rebecca's Dessert Wine, Yakima Valley, 16% alc., $13
Recommended. As a tribute to his wife, Rebecca Yeaman, Wade Wolfe remains 100% devoted to Orange Muscat from Lonesome Springs Vineyard near Red Mountain for this delicious drink of apricots, honey, apple pie spice and Lemonhead hard candy. Residual sugar is 10%, and suggested fare for the fortified wine includes orchard fruit pies.
Westport Winery NV A Little Wild Blackberry Riesling, Columbia Valley, 419 cases, 12% alc., $24
Recommended. A lot of regional blackberries receive backing from a little Riesling for a tasty dessert wine (12% residual sugar) that also brings thoughts of strawberries and cherries. It's soft in structure with a touch of golden raisin in the farewell.
Westport Winery NV Duckleberry Grunt, Washington, 376 cases, 11% alc., $24
Excellent. Duckleberry Swim is rather obscure Muppets character, and this base of Gewürztraminer from the Columbia Valley is partially disguised by a blend of blueberry and huckleberry. There's lusciousness with the sweetness (9.9% residual sugar), yet it's tangy and with enough tannin structure for balance. A lot of folks will enjoy this fanciful offering, but it might not appeal to many serious wine drinkers.
Westport Winery NV Message in a Bottle, Washington, 257 cases, 12% alc., $19
Recommended. It's made from blackberries, but it could be mistaken for a cherry or maywine with its tones of woodruff and Dr Pepper. There's a bit of tannin and brown sugar in the background, as well as a lot of sweetness (9% residual sugar).
Westport Winery NV Red Sky At Night Dessert Wine, Washington, 468 cases, 12% alc., $29
Excellent. Raspberries and chocolate make for a pleasant pairing, and here they are in a drinkable for for adults. Yet, it's reminiscent of a raspberry Tootsie Pop, both the hard outside and crunchy inside. That goes for the aromas and flavors. It's not cloying, and the chocolate is persistent and nicely integrated through to the finish of chocolate cake with raspberry filling.
Ice wine
Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Reserve Vidal Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley, 600 cases, 9% alc., $50 CDN
Recommended. Grapes off the spectacular Naramata Ranch Vineyard produced a dessert wine with intoxicating aromas of apricot, baked apple, honey and Bananas Foster. There's more of the same on the sweet palate (20% residual sugar), along with peaches on a whole wheat pancake, mango and a finish of apple sauce.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley, 900 cases, 9.5% alc., $60 CDN
Excellent. Harvest came after the first of the year at the Westbank site near the winery. A nose of marshmallow, butterscotch, honey, apricot, dandelion, vanilla bean and apple fills the imagination. The key to a well-crafted ice wine is acidity, and there's a laser beam of it on the entry of oranges and pineapples. Next, McIntosh apples and peaches float in the medium viscosity, then the acidity returns to linger.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Select Lot Collection Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley, 9% alc., $80 CDN
Excellent. Harvest for this vineyard in Oliver, B.C., took place in December, which accounts for the concentrated notes, starting with Red Delicious apple, caramel, honeysuckle, maple nut, candy corn and the classic petrol aroma. What awaits is a very smooth and round entry of baked apple and caramel with a viscous apricot jelly in the midpalate, and candied apple in the finish.
Pentâge Winery 2007 Slow Vineyards Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley, 40 cases, 10.5% alc., $35 CDN
Outstanding! Paul Gardner created a masterful blend of equal parts of Chardonnay, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Viognier from this site on the Naramata Bench. Apple pie with spice dominates the aromas, but there are also tempting notes of nectarine, honeysuckle and maple. Lip-smacking acidity hits you upon entry, unveiling flavors of peach cobbler, vanilla bean and chips of glazed maple syrup. It's a medium level of viscosity, pleasantly sweet (15% residual sugar) and refreshed with a finish of juicy pears.
Sawtooth Winery 2006 Reserve Gewürztraminer Ice Wine, Snake River Valley, 460 cases, 10.1% alc., $30
Excellent. There's no need for cryogenics to make ice wine in Idaho, as this early November harvest from the estate Sawtooth Vineyard reveals. It's hugely aromatic featuring apricots, peaches, sugared pink grapefruit, Creme Brulée, honeysuckle, a bit of clover and even a dusting of grandma's facial powder. Those apricots become concentrated on the palate with more clover and baking spices. The residual sugar (16.9%) is balanced, and the structure is more subtle than some ice wines, which should allow it to pair nicely with a cheese cake.
Westport Winery 2007 Shiver Me Timbers Riesling Ice Wine, Columbia Valley, 83 cases, 11% alc., $55
Excellent. Producing an ice wine is a sticky process that not many established wineries are willing to deal with, and yet, this year-old winery included it as one of its more than two dozen offerings. There's lots of baking spice in the aromas, along with honey, lime and petrol. The big delivery of fruit is on the honeyed palate with baked apple, pineapple, apricot and Cling peach flavors, giving way to a margarita mix finish of acidity to balance the residual sugar (12%).
Port-style
Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Port-style, Southern Oregon, 211 cases, 19% alc., $25
Outstanding! Three of the past four vintages Earl Jones has earned our top rating with his dessert wine, and he blends Portuguese varieties Tinta Roriz (31%) Tempranillo clone 1 (31%), Bastardo (19%), Tinta Amarela (10%), Tinta Cao (7%) and Touriga Naçional (2%). Rich blueberry seems to be the theme with Abacela's Port-style, and here's no exception with cherries, milk chocolate, anise, coffee and tobacco not far in the background. It's remarkably balanced with the residual sugar (9%) and warming alcohol expertly integrated.
David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2005 Estate Muscat Port, Willamette Valley, 151 cases, 18.9 % alc. $28
Outstanding! This vintage marked the year winemaker/vineayrd manager Jason Bull took the helm at this Forest Grove., operation and producing a dessert wine of this sort (8% residual sugar) is a gutsy effort worthy of acclaim. Perfumy aromas feature butterscotch, almond liqueur and candy corn, and they continue onto the palate with notes of amaretto, hazelnuts and a hot-buttered rum.
Van Duzer Vineyards NV Windfall, Oregon, 18% alc., $25
Excellent. A fortified Pinot Noir dessert wine comes across reminiscent of tawny Port, starting with aromas of currants, cigar leaf, moist cedar, plums and brown sugar. There's more cassis and plums on the palate with some raisin notes, and the alcohol is nicely integrated behind the charming acidity.
Westport Winery NV Shelter From the Storm, American, 334 cases, 18% alc., $22
Recommended. A blend of Northwest cranberries, blackberries and blueberries is created in a tasty style that's akin to a SweeTart. The 11% sweetness is lifted by being fortified.
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