Here are the red wines reviewed in our Recent Releases section of the Summer 2009 issue of Wine Press Northwest. Wines are categorized by variety and style.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Amavi Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, 3,981 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Recommended. This well-known winery cut production of this Cab back nearly 1,000 cases from its previous vintage, yet held its price steady. Blackberry is the theme running through this wine, with accents of tar, earth, espresso and black tea.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2005 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, 300 cases, 13.8% alc., $32
Recommended. Another example of this vineyard's renowned power, it's loaded with sweet black cherries, black olives and anise while tannins serve as bookends. Look for this to improve in the next 2-3 years.
Benson Vineyards & Estate Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Chelan County, 156 cases, 14.4% alc., $28
Recommended. Estate fruit from a vineyard overlooking Lake Chelan produced notes of Rainier cherries, strawberry, plum, rose petal, cigar leaf and red bell pepper swirling in a structure that's sweet on the palate and finishes with cedar and tar tones.
Canyon's Edge Winery 2005 Aldercreek Vineyard Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvingon, Horse Heaven Hills, 280 cases, 13.7% alc., $30
Excellent.The Groths sell fruit to many wineries, but they started holding some fruit back and have former Maryhill winemaker John Haw lording over their wines in Prosser. A Cab lover's Cab, it features aromas of cherries, malted milk balls and rose hips. It's filled with smooth flavors of Chukar Cherries and vanilla, packaged with the alcohol in check.
Capstone Cellars 2005 Solstice Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, 100 cases, 13.6% alc., $26
Recommended. The Willard family began planting this vineyard in 1980, but this wine seems to have come from an orchard. Rainier cherries with a bit of leaf, stewed plums and balanced oak notes spill across a juicy and tasty palate.
Carpenter Creek Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, 300 cases, 13.8% alc., $32
Excellent. This vintage marked the fifth anniversary for Jeff Hammer's winery in Mount Vernon, Wash., and historic Portteus Vineyard plays a key role in this release. Blackberries, blueberries, Tennessee red cedar and beeswax aromas delve into a deep palate of more blackberries, boysenberries, bright cherries and chocolate tones.
DiStefano Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 828 cases, 14.5% alc. $32
Outstanding! Our 2008 Washington Winery of the Year comes through with the bottling that owner Mark Newton refers to as "The Proud Mary" and we are happy to give credit. Plums, pie cherries, vanilla bean and toast aromas roll into juicy dark flavors of plums, Rainier cherries and bittersweet chocolate. There's nice complexity to the structure from nice acidity and tannins that build, finished by notes of cinnamon and raspberries.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 852 cases, 14.7% alc., $26
Outstanding! A remake of the label at this rising Walla Walla winery features Ceres, Greek mythology's goddess of agriculture and harvest. Pomegranates play a role in the tale of Ceres' daughter, and they also pop up front and center in the aromatics of this wine, along with currant jam, plums, mocha and vanilla extract. Plums take over on the palate that's so very rich and easy drinking there's very little tannin to slow you down. Red currant acidity shows in the finish, along with green tea and cinnamon.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, 125 cases, 14.7% alc., $45
Outstanding! This hip Walla Walla group recently added former Boise chef Andrae Bopp to the payroll and the winemaking team. And he must really get cooking with this. Black plums, blackberries, cherry cola, cocoa powder, cedar, pulled taffy and pink peppercorns waft up the nasal passage. Bold black cherry flavors, along with boysenberries and blackberries, meet up with a lot of elegance from chocolate syrup and a bit of crushed leaf. The inherent power across the palate suggests duck breast, or drop Bopp an email for other ideas.
Kestrel Vintners 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, 1,822 cases, 13.9% alc., $22
Excellent. A strong influence of oak shows in chocolate brownie, cedar and teriyaki aromas, but there's ample plum and blackberry in the background. More blackberries, plums and black cap cherries come through in mouthfilling fashion from this strongly structured blend of Kestrel View Estate (72%), Olsen and Elephant Mountain sites. Suggested pairings include duck with mushrooms and fig sauce.
Madsen Family Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, 65 cases, 13.5% alc., $30
Recommended. This young operation in the Washington's capital city of Olympia sources several appellations throughout the state, including its smallest. Notes of red currants, pie cherries, tomato paste, teriyaki, tobacco leaf and oregano are bound in a zesty and bold structure that bodes well for roasts, lasagna and meatloaf topped with tomato paste.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 84 cases, 14.5% alc., $23
Recommended. Think of a bowl at breakfast with hints of dried strawberries, raspberries, crushed cherries, brown sugar and a bit of toasted oak reminiscent of Fruity Cherrios. It's all stirred up by a nice bit of sweetness, late acidity and tannins that build in the back end.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, 284 cases, 14.2% alc., $28
Recommended. Here's the upper end of the price range for this picturesque winery in the morning shadow of Mount Baker. Light strawberry, vanilla and allspice aromas with cinnamon and brown sugar cascade into pie cherries on the palate. Firm tannins and cranberry acidity will reward an entrée of goose or duck breast
Nelms Road 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, 5,521 cases, 14.1% alc., $24
Excellent.The term "press wine" isn't a flattering one, but Woodward Canyon's press wine is better than the "free run juice" by many. Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, cocoa powder, cigar leaf and dried herbs arouse the senses. Then comes the delivery of sweet blueberries and blackberries with nice leafiness in the middle and good acidity. There's a rewarding richness in the mouth feel, and the chocolaty tannins - based on the wine's pedigree - should mature with a year or two.
Page Cellars 2005 Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, 86 cases, 14.5% alc., $50
Excellent. This Woodinville, Wash., winery continues its relationship with Shaw Vineyard for its reserve, which is Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), and backed by Merlot (20%). Blackberries, black cherries, saddle leather, brown sugar and horehound are found in the nose. It's matched on the palate with boysenberries and huckleberries taking the center stage. The juicy structure gives way only at the end to chocolaty tannins.
Snoqualmie Vineyards 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 14.2% alc., $23
Excellent. Nearly a decade ago, this winery topped our judging of Northwest Cabs with its reserve line. And rather than reacting to inflation over the years, this consumer-minded operation in Prosser actually has lowered the price by a buck. Black cherries, Whoppers malted milk balls, slate and chocolate brownies dominate the aromas. There are more cherries and plums to drink down in rich fashion, accented by olives and mint amid a structure featuring acidity over tannin.
'37 Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 50 cases, 14.6% alc., $36
Excellent. Frank Dechaine and Chuck Egner are brothers-in-law with a passion for 1937 C.F. Martin guitars as well as Washington reds. They slowly are increasing production at their tiny Leavenworth winery, but they have their mind on quality. Ripe cherries and chocolate are the hallmarks of this balanced Cab, accented by notes of vanilla bean, molasses, coconut and soy sauce.
Walla Walla Vintners 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, 580 cases, 14.3% alc., $35
Outstanding! If you see Walla Walla's famed red-roofed barn on the label, count on the wine exhibiting a quality barrel program. This classic Cab off Dwelley, Frazier Bluff, Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills, Tokar and Windrow vineyards is no exception. It offers aromas of cherries and rich chocolate, strawberry jam on toast and blackberry cobbler. There's no disappointment between the lips, including cola in the background, zesty acidity and sublime tannins. Enjoy with braised short ribs. Call the winery for the recipe.
Walla Walla Vintners 2006 Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 530 cases, 14.3% alc., $40
Outstanding! New winemaker William vonMetzger, a product of co-owner Myles Anderson's program at the Walla Walla Institute of Enology and Viticulture, has been in the background at this historic winery since 2002. The legacy continues here with a product of 36-year-old vines and showy oak, giving off hints of Costa Rican coffee, alder smoke, Chex Party Mix, teriyaki, fine leather and mint. Remarkable is the juicy and jammy structure of black currants and Chukar Cherries. And it has the balance to Olympic champion gymnast Shawn Johnson.
Ward Johnson Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, 210 cases, 14.2% alc., $25
Outstanding! This group of Tri-City natives living in Seattle must stay in good touch with their roots because these grapes came from the Wiilliams clan at Kiona Vineyards & Winery. And the winemakers don't disappoint the hometown crowd. It covers your nose with blackberries and enticing chocolate, then delivers with the same in a pleasing structure. There's added interest from raspberry tea and almond extract toward the back end. (Winery provided incorrect price for the print edition).
Westport Winery 2007 Charterboat Chick's Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 221 cases, 12% alc., $27
Excellent. Sweet aromas of milk chocolate, black cherries, cola and strawberries don't belie the structure of flavors that include cocoa powder and cinnamon. There's good acidity to balance its tilt toward off-dry, so here's something to offer those looking to start enjoying red wine.
Woodward Canyon Winery 2006 Artist Series #15 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, 449 cases, 14.5% alc., $49
Outstanding! Rick Small launched this line in 1992, and it long has been among the most prized Cabs in the Northwest. Grapes from Champoux, DuBrul, Sagemoor, Woodward Canyon Estate and Charbonneau vineyards get his blueprint approach of new French oak barrels that produce aromas of blackberries and cherries, Graham cracker crust and roasted hot red peppers. It's a mouth-coating drink of more blackberries and cherries amid a balanced structure, trailed by orange oil and tobacco in the finish.
Pinot Noir
Benson Vineyards & Estate Winery 2006 Pinot Noir, Chelan County, 256 cases, 13% alc., $23
Recommended. This estate vineyard is building a reputation for Pinot Noir in the new Lake Chelan appellation, and here's the latest. It features red-toned fruit, rose petal, violets, crushed leaf, saddle leather and a pinch of pepper. Nice acidity and its light structure won't compete with foods such as salmon or goat cheese.
Chehalem Wines 2006 Corral Creek Vineyards Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, 299 cases, 15.4% alc., $44
Excellent. Harry Pederson-Nedry gives visitors a strong sense of place with this release, which comes from the vineyard surrounding the winery. Planted in 1983, these berries provide aromatics of Rainier cherries, strawberry leaf, white pepper and chocolate. Spicy pie cherries and chocolate pour across the palate, with lip-smacking strawberry jam taking over the midpalate and beyond.
Chehalem Wines 2006 Stoller Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, 604 cases, 14.9% alc., $44
Excellent. One of several estate vineyards, this one puts a lot of terroir into this Pinot Noir as it's filled with strawberries, Van cherries and a bit of citrus, along with cedar and forest floor aromas. A tilt delivers a taste of strawberry jam and more cherry notes, joined by salivating acidity and pleasing tannins with a bit of tartness in the finish.
David Hill Vineyards and Winery 2006 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 14.5% alc., $38
Outstanding! Jason Bull continues to show the promise of this vineyard, one of the oldest and most overlooked in Oregon. A subtle but welcoming nose features cherries, raspberries and pie cherries, but rose petals, dill weed and green peppercorns are in the background. The drink also is on the delicate side and rewards those with time to devote to it. Its light flavors of raspberries and pie cherries gain your favor, and beauty builds with balance and a finish of dried blackberries and more dill. Food options include Salisbury steak or duck breast in a pomegranate sauce.
Domaine Serene 2006 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 9,000 cases, 14.5% alc., $58
Recommended. More than 70 different lots factor into this blend of Pommard, Wadenswil and Dijon clones from estate sites in the Dundee and Eola hills, resulting in an offering filled with notes of strawberries, Montmorency cherries, cedar, saddle leather and allspice.
Eastburn Vineyards 2006 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, 450 cases, 13.8% alc., $38
Outstanding! Here's a remarkable debut from a very young Parrett Mountain site planted in Jory soil to Dijon clones. Strawberry juice, pie cherries, rose petals and vanilla caress the nose. The drink is akin to a piece of cherry pie with French vanilla ice cream and delicious from stem to stern with sensual structure. Suggested fare includes filet mignon, roasted lamb, quail or smoked chicken.
Kettle Valley Winery 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, 284 cases, 14% alc., $35 CDN
Excellent. Our 2009 B.C. Winery of the Year reaffirms that Pinot Noir in the Okanagan Valley is worth the effort. Three Naramata Bench sites - Cole, Hayman and Trovao - are blended with those from Thibault Vineyard in Summerland to produce aromatics of black cherries, plums, dusty chocolate and cracked black pepper. A clean and gentle entry awaits with more plums and juicy cherries floating in the medium body.
Kyra Wines 2007 Pinot Noir, Washington, 388 cases, 14.2% alc., $22
Excellent. One of the few spots in Washington to produce worthy Pinot Noir is the Milbrandt brothers' Evergreen Vineyard. Moses Lake vintner Kyra Baerlocher tapped into that Quincy parcel as well as Blue Lakes Vineyard in Oroville, and the drinker is instantly rewarded with aromas of black cherries, plums, raspberries, cinnamon, cocoa powder and eucalyptus. There's more black cherries on the attack, followed by milk chocolate in the midpalate and warm strawberries in the finish.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, 13% alc., $25 CDN
Recommended. This spent 14 months in French oak, which explains the cedar and chocolate aromas among the dark cherry, red currant and oregano. The greeting in the mouth is of cherries, blood orange and cocoa in the medium body, trailed by dusty tannins and more cedar in the finish.
Left Coast Cellars 2006 Cali's Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 4,400 cases, 14.8% alc., $28
Excellent. Named to honor the family artist, this release makes up a sizable chunk of the winery's entire production. There are aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, rosewater, cedar, green bell pepper and a hint of vanilla bean. It fills the mouth with more dried cherries, white strawberries and plums, backed by bittersweet chocolate, peppercorns and a tug of tannin.
Territorial Vineyards & Wine Co. 2006 Capital T Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 250 cases, 13.3% alc., $39
Recommended. Estate fruit from this downtown Eugene, Ore., winery contributes notes of cherry and pomegranate juice, chocolate, fresh-snapped green beans and tobacco. Zesty acidity and late tannins provide some punctuation.
Territorial Vineyards & Wine Co. 2006 Stone's Throw Pinot Noir, Willamette valley, 275 cases, 13.4% alc., $29
Excellent. The winemaker deemed the 2005 vintage was unworthy of bottling at this tier, but this pitch drills the strike zone. Smoky and toasty oak backs up aromas of spicy cherries, bittersweet chocolate and gun metal. It's juicy and supple all the way through with lively blueberries and rich blackberries, smooth tannins and closes with pie cherries.
Merlot
Barrister Winery 2006 Dwelley Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, 188 cases, 14.8% alc., $25
Outstanding! These Spokane attorneys could bill their winery clients more for a Merlot of such quality, but we're glad they don't. Instead, they summon you with notes of Rainier cherries, rose hips, violets, cocoa powder and cloves. Describing the juicy palate could keep a stenographer busy with flavors of rich plums, more cherries and a chocolaty mouth feel. It's round and sweet with a lingering finish of raspberries. This wine won gold at the 2009 Northwest Wine Summit, and you'll get no argument from us.
Bonair Winery 2006 Chateau Puryear Vineyard Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills, 187 cases, 13.9% alc., $20
Excellent. These vines are closing in on 30 years old, and Gail Puryear put them to use for aromas of marionberries, tobacco and chalk dust. More juicy berries await on the palate, joined by chocolate, nutmeg and saddle leather. It's all carried along with bright acidity.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley, 151,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Excellent. Lead winemaker Bob Bertheau said this vintage tested his patience, but time has served this wine well. The nose is filled with black cherries, blackberries, stewed plums, cedar, vanilla and baseball card bubble gum dust. It's big and rich with cherries, cola and bittersweet chocolate, rewarding acidity and tannins that heighten the fruit.
Columbia Crest Winery 2005 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, 3,000 cases, 14.7% alc., $25
Excellent. How many others in the Northwest can honestly claim that 3,000 cases qualifies as a "reserve"? And yet, the style fits. Oak influences of brown sugar, raspberry and cedar don't overwhelm the base of black cherries and raspberries, and the infusion of Cab Franc (5%) may explain the notes of thyme and oregano. Juicy plums and boysenberries step to the front of this rather masculine wine that asserts itself with tannins from the midpalate on through.
DavenLore Winery 2006 Merlot, Washington, 150 cases, 14.6% alc., $25
Recommended. Gord Taylor in Prosser, Wash., has a bird's eye view of the Yakima Valley, and it's easy to spot the black cherry, plum and leather notes with hints of green tea. There's also the pleasure end of a cigar in the background. He suggests pouring this with grilled pork chops or pasta primavera.
Kestrel Vintners 2005 Merlot, Yakima Valley, 1,902 cases, 13.9% alc. $25
Outstanding! A blend of some of the valley's most respected sites - the estate Kestrel View, Olsen, Elephant Mountain and Boushey - gave Flint Nelson a tasty toolbox to pull from. It starts with sweet cherry, chocolate and river rock aromas. Beautiful blue fruit and Bing cherry flavors await with a lean blackberry character and great balance. Delicious acidity makes it worthy of lamb or salmon.
Long Shadows Vintners 2006 Pedestal Merlot, Columbia Valley, 1,877 cases, 14.7% alc., $55
Recommended. The collaboration with Michel Rolland and vineyards such as Conner Lee, Dionysus and Wallula vineyards serves up an opulent, soft and sweet drink of strawberry jam, blackberry, marionberry, green peppercorns, teriyaki, tar and brown sugar.
Lopez Island Vineyards 2006 Crawford Vineyard Merlot, Yakima Valley, 183 cases, 14% alc., $17
Recommended. Black cherries and boysenberries swirl throughout with accents of teriyaki and fresh-cut grass among the smooth structure. It's spiced up by some blueberry tartness in the finish.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, 129 cases, 14.4% alc., $21
Excellent. Mike Scott spearheaded the Jack Jones project in Mattawa that shifted from orchards to vines. Ten years later, Scott is making wine from those grapes, including this one that opens with light cherry, vanilla and cedar aromas. The cherries carry through onto the palate, joined on the rich midpalate by red plums. Tangy acidity, modest tannins and restrained oak should pair this well with a sirloin or prime rib.
San Juan Vineyards 2006 Merlot, Yakima Valley, 351 cases, 14.3% alc., $22
Outstanding! This vintage marked the 10th anniversary of this winery. Unfortunately, co-owner Steve Swanberg lost his battle with cancer not long before these Kestrel View grapes arrived. Winemaker Chris Primus also arrived in 2006, and he produced an array of cherry and blackberry aromas with backing of brown sugar and vanilla bean. There's delicious fruit in the flavors with juicy blackberry, cherry and boysenberry. Pleasant length with cinnamon, balanced alcohol and good acidity allow the tannins to add traction without grabbing on the way out. It brought home gold from the 2009 Northwest Wine Summit.
Sawtooth Winery 2005 Reserve Merlot, Snake River Valley, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $25
Outstanding! Founding winemaker Brad Pintler is no longer in charge, but among his legacy is this drink that's a wealth of strawberry jam. It starts in the nose, backed by a handful Rainier cherries that included a leaf, vanilla, black olives, mocha, smoke and leather. More of that jam is joined by canned pie cherries and a sprinke of brown sugar. Citrusy acidity and a slice of green bell pepper adds complexity.
Snoqualmie Vineyards 2005 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 14.5% alc., $23
Outstanding! Joy Andersen presents this wine in a bottle that's black and smooth, which also describes what's inside. Dark cherries and sweet barrel aromas of mocha, juniper, anise and saddle leather filter in. Black cherries and cassis dominate this laid-back and balanced Merlot, most of which comes from Wahluke Slope vines well into their third decade of life.
Three Rivers Winery 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, 1,870 cases, 14.8% alc., $19
Excellent. There's new ownership at this respected Walla Walla winery, but Holly Turner remains, and so does the quality. Fruit from Alder Creek Vineyard, Dionysus and Arbor Crest's estate Wahluke Slope Vineyard got a lot of barrel influence from French and Hungarian oak in the form of root beer, cedar and a candela-wrapped cigar. There's sweetness on the palate with black cherries, rewarding chocolate and black coffee, as well as some grip to the tannins that should take this along for a nice ride in the cellar.
Ward Johnson Winery 2006 Merlot, Red Mountain, 252 cases, 14.2% alc., $30
Recommended. The Hedges North Block provides a pleasant view as well as the grapes for this straight-forward offering of plums, Bing cherries, grape fruit leather, cigar leaf, tea and chocolate. It's built with food-friendly acidity and tannins tucked in the background. (Winery provided incorrect price for the print edition).
Westport Winery 2007 Boom Runner Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, 12% alc., 99 cases, $29
Excellent. This all-Merlot offering didn't spend much time in barrel - six weeks in medium-toast new American oak - but it picked enough without being over the top. Big black cherry, blueberry and loganberry aromas jump out, backed by hints of milk chocolate, vanilla, caramel and crushed walnut. The palate goes on a starbord tack with unripe Bing cherries, drip coffee and leather notes. Steady-as-she-goes tannins and the acidity will pair with pasta in a meat sauce.
Westport Winery 2007 Mermaid's Merlot, Columbia Valley, 297 cases, 12% alc., $23
Recommended. There's a tasty theme of cherries throughout, accented by notes of a toasted cinnamon raisin bagel, an easy and straight-forward structure and a finish of cherry Jell-O.
Woodward Canyon 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, 623 cases, 14% alc., $39
Excellent. Rick Small tapped into the Wahluke Slope site of Weinbau (50%), his estate (31%), Sagemoor near the Columbia River (15%) and the cult Yakima Valley site of DuBrul for a rich release featuring inky blue fruit, cocoa, leather, tannin over acidity and a finish of cherry liqueur.
Syrah
Amavi Cellars 2006 Les Collines Vinyeard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, 237 cases, $34
Recommended. The vineyard is pronounced as "Lay co-lean," and there are pronounced tones of black cherries, tobacco, smoky coffee and alfalfa throughout with sweet, rounded tannins and a pleasingly tart finish that should bode well with such entrees as venison or smoked duck.
Amavi Cellars 2006 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, 1,462 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Recommended. Estate grapes from Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Les Collines shows abundant oak in the aromas with toast, ground coffee and juniper berries. The true rewards strike the palate with blackberry syrup filling the entry, warm chocolate on the midpalate and maple syrup in the finish.
Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2007 Syrah, Yakima Valley, 144 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Excellent. Randy Bonaventura, whose talents elevated Mount Baker Vineyards, is putting Concrete, Wash., on the wine map. He co-fermented this with Viognier (4%) and the aromas include red currants, pie cherries, plums, cola, tea and tobacco. There are more plums, cherries, tobacco and a little tar on the palate, and its racy structure imparts a food-friendly structure unlike most Syrahs. Enjoy it as a quaffer or with rich tomato-based fare, including a meatball sandwich.
Cinder Wines 2007 Syrah, Snake River Valley, 280 cases, 14.1% alc., $27
Outstanding! Melanie Krause first grabbed our attention last year by earning our top rating for her inaugural vintage of Syrah. She's now 2-for-2. It's not a fruit bomb, showing restraint with a greeting of fine pipe tobacco, blackberries, juniper, red pepper flakes, sun-dried tomato, Italian seasoning, leather and eucalyptus. Blackberries, cola, vanilla bean and fine-grained leather make for a well-balanced drink, and Baker's chocolate accents the lengthy farewell. Enjoy it with pork, lamb, salmon or steak.
Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2005 Syrah, Washington, 531 cases, 14.9% alc., $28
Outstanding! Consistent winemaking and widely regarded vineyards such as Alder Ridge, Stillwater Creek, Andrews and Boushey make this Idaho Panhandle winery a proven producer of Rhône varieties. Another example is in this bottle, which contains aromas of cassis, pie cherries and teriyaki. The drink is opulent with boysenberries and more cassis, Red Vines licorice and Red Hot candy. Its structure of acidity over tannins should lend itself well to pork ribs.
Cuillin Hills 2006 The Dungeon Syrah, Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 14.7% alc., $29
Outstanding! A gathering from Snipes Canyon Ranch, Wahluke Slope Vineyard and Sagemoor, includes a touch of Grenache (6%). It allows Derek DesVoigne to develop a wine you'd enjoy in solitary confinement. The bouquet of blackberries, black pepper, Tennesseee red cedar and French vanilla doesn't mislead. It's a big but juicy drink of blackberries, cherries, allspice and Godiva chocolate.
Daven Lore Winery 2006 Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills, 14.6% alc., $25
Excellent. Canadian-born winemaker Gord Taylor spent time in Australia, and the influence is apparent with this big blueberry theme, starting with the aromas, which include Bing cherries and a baked Triscuit cracker. Blueberries return in a dark form between the gums with strawberries and tomato sauce, wrapped in a pleasing structure of tartness and acidity.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Lonesome Spring Ranch Squirrel Tooth Alice Syrah, Yakima Valley, 125 cases, 14.6% alc., $32
Recommended. The name is a tongue-twister, one of the longest in the Northwest, and it's got plenty to say with hints of Bing cherries, blueberries, espresso, brown sugar, allspice, mint, furikake and cedar in a pleasing mouth feel.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Reserve Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, 136 cases, 14.7% alc., $45
Recommended. There's little reserved here with marionberry, raspberry, cola, chocolate milk, cedar, violet, lilac and oak spice aromas. It's followed by a lean entry of black raspberries, black cherries, a good grip of tannin and blackened plums in the finish.
E.B. Foote Winery 2007 Graves Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley, 138 cases, 15% alc., $18
Recommended. Grapes from this established Dallesport, Wash., site allowed winemaker Sherrill Miller to produce a plush and plummy drink with accents of juniper berry and eucalyptus, backed by mint chocolate in the finish.
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2006 Syrah, Wahluke Slope, 250 cases, 13.5% alc., $28
Outstanding! A number of Chelan-area wineries point to Mike Wade's RiverBend Vineyard as a reason for their success, and here's another example. Plummy aromas include cherry hard candy, brown sugar, baking spice and spearment. The drink features a thickness akin to blackberry jam and supremely managed tannins. Chocolate floats along, and blackberry and blueberry notes finish in a flourish that keeps bringing you back.
Long Shadows Vintners 2006 Sequel Syrah, Columbia Valley, 2,012 cases, 14.7% alc., $55
Outstanding! The venture with former Penfold's Grange vintner John Duval incorporates fruit from famed sites such as Alder Ridge, Wallula, Boushey, Bacchus and Sagemoor. It launches with a pleasingly complex nose of rich black cherries, augmented by vanilla, juniper, mint, chocolate and eucalyptus. Softened strawberries help show off a juicy structure with chocolate in the midpalate, hastened by enjoyable acidity and anise in the finish.
Olsen Estates 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, 297 cases, 14.2% alc., $31
Excellent. Estate fruit from the Yakima Valley spent 15 months in almost new French oak, and it shows. There's lots of bittersweet chocolate and sassafras around a base of plums and boysenberries. It's framed by a medium structure and pie cherry acidity.
Pentâge Winery 2006 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, 225 cases, 14% alc., $26 CDN
Excellent. Dark fruit, crushed leaf, saddle leather and toasty oak aromas funnel into big black cherry flavors and juicy raspberries. Robust tannins and rewarding pie cherry tartness show in the finish.
Snoqualmie Vineyards 2005 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, 1,800 cases, 14.3% alc., $23
Excellent. The Prosser-based branch of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates spices this higher-tier Syrah by blending in Mourvèdre (6%), and the results include raspberries, coffee, cinnamon, eucalyptus and black pepper in the bouquet. Instantly in the mouth is proof that its a well-made wine as more raspberries, cassis and coffee flavors are framed by ample acidity and assertive tannins, cast away by a finish of bittersweet chocolate and cedar. Joy Andersen suggests enjoying this with roast duck or turkey.
Three River Winery 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, 919 cases, 14% alc., $19
Excellent. A pair of highly regarded vineyards - Boushey in the Yakima Valley and Weinbau on the Wahluke Slope - allowed Holly Turner to showcase a deep purple Syrah. Plums, red cherries, chocolate, coffee, freshly toasted bread and a slice of green pepper fill the nose. There's a succulent feel to all that purple fruit on the palate, and the inclusion of Petit Verdot (12%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (7%) adds to the backbone, where there's a scrape of vanilla bean in the offing. Try this with roasted pork loin accompanied by a plum reduction sauce.
Walter Dacon Wines 2006 C'est Syrah Beaux, Columbia Valley, 300 cases, 14.8% alc., $38
Excellent. His name is Lloyd Anderson, but in Northwest wine circles, he might just as well go by Mr. Dacon. Destiny Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills leads the way (60%) for his middle-tier Syrah, and its backed by Reach at the End of the Road (17%), Elephant Mountain (13%) and Boushey vineyards. Spicy cherry pipe tobacco, blueberry and vanilla aromas set the table for a seamless structure of juicy cherries, wild mountain berries and warm chocolate accents.
Walter Dacon Wines 2006 C'est Syrah Belle, Columbia Valley, 450 cases, 14.6% alc., $30
Excellent. The same four vineyards go into each of the three Syrahs at Walter Dacon, but Ranch at the End of the Road (Red Mountain) makes up the majority in this, his largest production, which he co-ferments with Viognier (6%). Blackberries, pie cherries, vanilla and dark chocolate notes fill the nose. Blueberries and huckleberries take over the jammy palate that shows restrained use of oak and a lingering finish.
Walter Dacon Wines 2006 C'est Syrah Magnifique, Yakima Valley, 294 cases, 14.8% alc., $42
Excellent. Equal parts of Boushey and Elephant Mountain vineyards (32%) share the load in Lloyd Anderson's priciest release from his Shelton, Wash., winery. Wonderfully mature barrel notes show early with hints of brown sugar and maple in the aromas, but there's plenty of blueberries, pie cherries and pie spice, too. It's more of the same on the palate, including lingonberries, carried along with balance to pair well with lamb pops, gyros or duck breasts served in a Chinese five-spice sauce.
Ward Johnson Winery 2006 Ranch at the End of the Road Syrah, Red Mountain, 252 cases, 14.2% alc., $30
Excellent. The winemaking Brothers Johnson from Richland, Wash., tap into another Williams family site for a single-variety bottling. Bright fruit aromas feature currants, backed by cinnamon, vanilla and mincemeat. There's more currant jam on the palate with notes of coffee, lots of acidity and a drop of steak juice, which conjures up thoughts of a pairing with grilled T-bone. (Winery provided incorrect price for the print edition).
Westport Winery 2007 Surfer Last's Syrah, Columbia Valley, 334 cases, 12% alc., $21
Outstanding! While their labels might not win any design awards, this wine is worthy of one. Fruit dominates the aromas, starting with plums, blackberries, black currants and strawberry jam. The fruit follows through boldly and beautifully with a juicy strawberry entry and more blue fruit swirling in behind - particularly blueberry and its acidity.
Westport Winery 2007 Vintner's Reserve Swimmer's Last Syrah, Columbia Valley, 98 cases, 12% alc., $27
Recommended. Some Syrahs are so hedonistic that they lack the structure for food pairings, but not this. Plums, tart blueberry and elderberry notes, along with vanilla bean, feature acidity over tannins to make this a worthy accompaniment with reddish prime rib or duck confit.
Cabernet Franc
GraEagle Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley, 100 cases, 13.9% alc., $30
Excellent. Neuffer Estate, near Leonetti Cellar, provides the fruit for this wine that's true to the variety. This wine, a second label of Nicholas Cole Cellars, has expressive nose as cassis, blackberry, Western serviceberry, black peppercorns, freshly snapped green beans, allspice and tobacco only begin to tell its tale. It's certainly not a wallflower to drink, featuring Bing cherries, more green bean, bittersweet chocolate and tobacco. The red-toned fruit and herbal quality will pair well with meatloaf or flank steak marinated in red wine and thyme.
Pentâge Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, 200 cases, 14% alc., $28 CDN
Recommended. Blackberries, dark crushed cherries, cola, teriyaki, tobacco, toast and bittersweet chocolate notes fill the profile of this smooth drink that's finished with assertive tannins.
Wind River Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills, 300 cases, 13% alc., $25
Outstanding! The Goodwillies have great success working with this variety, and they skillfully preserve its food-friendly aspects. Destiny Ridge fruit offers aromas of raspberry, pie cherries, nutmeg, oregano and cigar leaf. The drink yields more red fruit with piquant cherries, raspberries with the seed, beautiful tarntess and acidity that builds, yiedling at bit at the end to bittersweet chocolate.
Sangiovese
Capstone Cellars 2006 Boushey Vineyards Barrel Select Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, 250 cases, 13.4% alc., $20
Recommended. It's uncommon in the Northwest to find a Sangiovese with such oak tones as this release from Longview, Wash., that includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. But there's also black cherries and boysenberry acidity along with notes of saddle leather and martini olives.
Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, 185 cases, 12.7% alc., $22
Excellent. Freddy Arredondo met his future wife while both were culinary students in Italy, which might begin to explain his early success with Italian varieties. Blueberries, Rainier cherries, citrus, espresso and a hint of dill tell some of the tale of the aromas. Long and lean flavors of blackberries and blueberries are carried along by tannins that will reward a filet mignon, but the low alcohol and neutral oak of this offering opens this wine up to leaner meats.
Kyra Wines 2006 Sangiovese, Wahluke Slope, 275 cases, 13.4% alc., $17
Excellent. The Baerlochers hauled fruit from their Pheasant Vineyard to their quaint winery at the Moses Lake airport and produced yet another quality wine for those who fly coach. Dusty pie cherry aromas include cola, brown sugar, warm oak. The easy drink features a cheery entry of more cherries, some cassis, a bit of tobacco and bright tannins. Enjoy with breaded veal cutlets, lasagna or other tomato-based dish.
Marchetti Wines 2007 Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, 40 cases, 12.4% alc., $27
Excellent. Rich LaRose of Olympia, Wash., learned winemaking from his Sicilian father, and there's some Old World skill on display with this fruit from VineHeart in Prosser. A fragrant wine, influenced by Hungarian oak, features notes of blueberries, strawberries, black cherries, moist earth, sandalwood and cedar bark. It's a fruit-driven drink with raspberries and pie cherries, bubbly acidity and a long finish with more brambleberries and a bit of chocolate.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, 43 cases, 15.7% alc., $25
Excellent. There's a bit of Syrah (7%) among the fruit from Jones Vineyard, and the ripeness of the fruit shows from every point of view. Strawberry jam aromas are joined by canned blackberries, nutmeg and coffee. Ironically, it drinks akin to an Aussie Shiraz with black plums, black cherries and raspeberries with chocolate. We suggest enjoying this within two years.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2006 Barrel Select Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, 173 cases, 14.9% alc., $16
Outstanding! While its own vineyard was planted in 1978, this Everson, Wash., winery has built its quality red program via relationships with Eastern Washington growers. In this case, grapes from Crawford and Kiona came together for one of the Northwest's best-priced Sangiovese. Black cherry, rose petal, forest from and lilac aromas tumble out past barrel notes of brown sugar, allspice, smoke, and leather. Dark plum pours out across the tongue with a bit of blackberries, and its bound by a juicy tannin structure.
Tempranillo
Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Tempranillo, Southern Oregon, 1,035 cases, 14.4% alc., $35
Recommended. There's a theme of big blackberries and cherry pie throughout, with accents of milk chocolate and mincemeat. The jammy entry, wealth of acidity and knowledge of this Spanish variety means cellaring for at least three years will pay dividends. In the meantime, Earl and Hilda Jones suggest a pairing of saffron-influenced lamb with chevre and peppers stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes.
Airfield Estates 2007 Tempranillo, Yakima Valley, 103 cases, 14.8% alc., $23
Recommended. The big Spanish red seems to be cropping up throughout the Northwest, and this Prosser winery has sold through this vintage. It's a burly and chewy wine, well-stocked with canned cherries, stewed plums, saddle leather and milk chocolate.
Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Tempranillo, Columbia Valley, 117 cases, 13.3% alc., $22
Excellent. A new era has dawned at the winery adjacent to the Gorge Amphitheater, and Freddy Arredondo is putting his stamp on his in-laws' business. Big and ripe black cherry aromas fill the nostrils, joined by lavendar, molasses, black walnut and chalkboard dust. He's managed to tame the beastly tannins of this Spanish variety in part by blending with Cabernet Franc (15%) while offering flavors of sour cherry candy, sweet chocolate, black olives, black tea tannins and a delivery of food-friendly acidity.
Sawtooth Winery 2005 Tempranillo, Snake River Valley, 188 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
Recommended. Spain's answer to Cabernet Sauvignon can be tough to tame. Notes of black cherries, brown sugar, coffee, tar, saddle leather and alfalfa include a structure with a fair bit of tannin and some smokiness.
Wind River Cellars 2006 Tempranillo, Columbia Gorge, 250 cases, 13.5% alc., $28
Outstanding! The Spanish variety that got its start in the Northwest at Abacela in the Umpqua Valley is catching on throughout. Ziegler Vineyards, not far from this winery in the shadow of Mount Adams, allows for aromas of cherries, sandalwood, cigar leaf, shoe leather and river rock. There's an opulence in the front with more cherries and cedar, followed by more cigar leaf. Big acidity and late tannins are held up by a finish of chocolate cake drizzled with raspberry sauce.
Zinfandel/Primitivo
Ferraro Cellar 2006 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, 104 cases, 15.4% alc., $24
Excellent. Dick Ferraro makes his wine at Medici Vineyards in Newberg, Ore., and the grapes came from Maryhill, Wash. Pie cherries, tobacco, vanilla been and green peppercorn fill the nose. In the glass await notes of juicy bluberries and more pie cherries in a sublime and supple structure with racy acidity in the finish. Don't bother with the cork screw. It's guarded by a glass stopper.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, 72 cases, 16% alc., $23
Outstanding! Wenatchee winemaker Mike Scott tapped in the Milbrandt vineyards for this reasonably priced Zin. Black plums, milk chocolate, cedar, mint and root beer aromas pave into a bold sip of chocolatly blackberry syrup. There's not a lot of complexity to the palate, but it's easy to like, including the mint leaf and a nice grip of tannin in the finish.
Maryhill Winery 2006 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, 3,052 cases, 14.8% alc., $22
Excellent. Here's one of the more affordable Zins in the Northwest, and it's worth tracking down. Big, sweet and complex whiffs of blueberries, Colombian coffee, milk chocolate and cinnamon toast gather up for more blueberries and spice flavors. Zesty tannins and a bite of cherry fruit leather appear in the back.
Three Angels 2007 Avery Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, 188 cases, 15.4% alc., $24
Excellent. This new winery in Carlton, Ore., has a niche - vineyard-designate Zins from the Columbia Valley. This parcel in the Horse Heaven Hills supplied Ed Fus with the makings for aromas of pie cherries, tobacco, Graham cracker and cracked black pepper. It's a selfish drink of sweet cherries, a wealth of acidity and a warm farewell of more cherry fruit leather and tobacco.
Three Angels 2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Primitivo, Columbia Valley, 83 cases, 15% alc., $20
Recommended. Another steamy Horse Heaven Hills site produced the fruit for the debut vintage of this winery based in the heart of Oregon's Pinot Noir country. Strawberries, light cherry, allspice, rose hips and oregano fill the nose, and there's more coming on the flavors. Intense cherries and strawberry/rhubarb acidity for a long and warm finish. Decanting and working the glass will allow for better exploration.
Other reds
Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Barbera, Columbia Valley, 165 cases, 13.8% alc., $22
Outstanding! Part of the focus at this central Washington destination is to create wines that pair well with chef Shauna Scriver's menu at Tendrils. Here might be young vintner Freddy Arredondo's most food-friendly wine. Subdued oak is a great start, and there's plenty of fruit aromas with pie cherries, marionberries, rose petal, chalk and even a piece of Jolly Rancher grape candy. The same fruit spills across the palate, followed by a juicy and tart midpalate, hints of soy, bright acidity and reduced tannin. We thought of duck confit or turkey, but the menu and staff at Tendrils will suggest the seasonal fare that best goes with this wine.
Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2006 "Mo" Mourvèdre, Washington, 114 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Outstanding! Warren Schutz excels with Syrah and Viognier at this North Idaho winery, so it's no surprise that he aces his first attempt at another Rhône variety. This release, via McKinley Springs in the Horse Heaven Hills, is named for resident pheasant that eats grapes seeds from crush pad. The drink yields tones of plums, cranberries, raspberries, Baker's chocolate and leather with a bright acidity that should lend itself to turkey or pheasant.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Grenache, Columbia Valley, 175 cases, 14.7% alc., $28
Outstanding! Corey Braunel and Chad Johnson make some of the best Syrah in the Northwest, which begins to explain their success with other Rhône varieties. A quick whiff brings to mind raspberries, cherry cola, blueberries, a baked Norkotah potato, cilantro, bacon, cilantro and lime. The palate is richly focused on brambleberries - boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry. There's a vanilla shake mouth feel with integrated tannins and a milk chocolate finish.
Hogue Cellars 2005 Terroir Series Andrews Vineyard Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, 140 cases, 15.4% alc., $22
Excellent. Here marks the third vintage that Co Dinn's team used Andrews & Rowell Vineyard for this wine. It features 100% new American oak, but the big plums and boysenberries stick around for a sturdy ride. On the palate, plums, pomegranate and cherries carry notes of brown sugar, green peppercorns and bittersweet chocolate.
Kettle Valley Winery 2006 Malbec, Naramata Bench, 286 cases, 14.5% alc., $35 CDN
Recommended. A blend of fruit from the Trovao and estate King Drive vineyards, this warrants descriptors akin to a cherry pie, including notes of baked crust and vanilla ice cream. Complexity spills out to include notes of cooked asparagus and raspberry amid the round and smooth structure, with a finish of blackberry and a crunch of the seed.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Petite Sirah, Columbia Valley, 41 cases, 13.6% alc. $23
Recommended. The PS movement is slowly catching on in the Northwest, and so lots tend to be small. Here's a lighter-structured Petite Sirah from Milbrandt fruit. Plums and blueberries, cedar and spice form the base, with white strawberries in the finish.
Snake River Winery 2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Barbera, Idaho, 225 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Recommended. Evidence of barrel aging shows in the notes of sarsaparilla, coffee and molasses, but plums and juicy raspberries shine among the bright acidity that is the charm of this food-friendly Italian grape. Suggested fare includes rich tomato-based dishes such as veal parmesan.
Thurston Wolfe Winery 2007 Lemberger, Horse Heaven Hills, 120 cases, 14.2% alc., $26
Excellent. Estate fruit off Zephyr Ridge paved the way for aromas of blueberries, stewed cherries and light toast. More blueberries and cream spill across the palate, along with a thin layer of minerality. There's the lighter style and smoothness one expects from this variety. Some walnut and tobacco show in the finish, along with a cinching up of tannins.
Red blends
Airfield Estates 2007 Mustang Red Wine, Yakima Valley, 195 cases, 15% alc., $28
Recommended. A blend of Rhône varieties Syrah (49%), Grenache (24%), Cinsault (13%), Counoise (9%) and Mourvèdre heads out on a mission that hones in on aromas of blueberry, plum, cordial cherries and menthol. It delivers a payload of purple blackberries, walnuts, bittersweet chocolate, citrus and resolved tannins.
Airfield Estates 2007 Vineyard Salute Bombshell Red, Yakima Valley, 631 cases, 14.6% alc., $16
Outstanding! A slightly risque cartoon of a stewardess may have contributed to the appeal, but the price and quality deserves attention. A tongue-wagging blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (32), Syrah (11%), Malbec (3%), Sangiovese (2%), Cinsault (1%) and Counoise (1%) combines for a nose of blueberries and coffee, black cherry and cedar, and sun-dried tomato and cola. Flavors of opulent blackberries and chcoolate - accented by blueberries acidity and mild tannins - lead to a dinner mission of rosemary-rubbed lamb pops or barbecued beef ribs.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2005 Dionysus, Columbia Valley, 475 cases, 13.8% alc., $45
Excellent. The flagship wine for this remarkable Spokane property takes a claret blend of Conner Lee, two Dionysus blocks, Klipsun and estate Wahluke Slope vineyards, and then Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels nurtures it in French barrels for 36 months. The oak is prevalent throughout, as well as notes of blackberries, pie cherries and rose hips. Tannins give way to a lengthy finish of Boylan's Natural Cane Cola.
Benson Vineyards & Estate Winery 2006 Meritage, Chelan County, 191 cases, 13.7% alc., $28
Excellent. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) and Merlot came from the estate blocks that are closest to Lake Chelan and are just a few hundred yards from the shore. It reminded one judge of a cool-climate Bordeaux with its subtlety, lower alcohol and enjoyable length. Descriptors include dried strawberry, pomegranate, cinnamon, green peppercorn and tobacco. Enjoy with steak joined by a green peppercorn sauce.
Benson Vineyards & Estate Winery 2006 Rhythm, Chelan County, 387 cases, 14% alc., $26
Excellent. There's strong hint of Rhône in this blend, which leads with Syrah (46%) and follows with Sangiovese (22%), Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) and Merlot. Notes of red currant, dried cherry, root beer, juniper berries, sandalwood and summer savory lead to flavors consisent with the nose. It's jammy, juicy in structure with ample acidity notes of tobacco in the finish.
Cave B Estate Winery 2006 Cuvée du Soleil Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 13.9% alc., $40
Recommended. A youthful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (44%), Cabernet Franc (31%) and Merlot features light toast, sweet boysenberries and blueberries with the frontal tannins and ample acidity that rewards dinner guests at the estate restaurant among the rows of vines flanking this George, Wash., resort.
Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2007 Faye Red Wine, Yakima Valley, 267 cases, 13.2% alc., $20
Excellent. Named for one of winemaker Randy Bonaventura's faithful dogs, this is a bit of a mixed breed - Syrah (50%), Tempranillo (15%), Malbec (15%), Pinot Noir (10%) and Viognier - but it's no mutt. There are fetching aromas of red currants, dusty cherries, plums, brown sugar, cedar, black olive and a hint of smokiness. They put you on the trail of a supple drink filled with pie cherries and currants on the entry. There's bright acidity on the midpalate, and pomengranate and tobacco on the finish.
Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2005 McKinley Springs Vineyard BDX Red Wine, Washington, 126 cases, 14.5% alc., $32
Recommended. The BDX stands for Bordeaux, and the blend of Cabernet Franc (50%), Cab Sauv (34%) and Merlot from the Horse Heaven Hills is thick with notes of cordial cherries, Graham cracker, cola, portabello mushrooms and Starbucks liqueur. The winery suggests serving with smoky or grilled meats, and even Three-Chocolate Cranberry Cookies - a recipe listed on its Web site.
Columbia Crest Winery 2005 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley, 6,500 cases, 14.2% alc., $34
Excellent. Select hand-picked lots from Cold Creek Vineyard, the nearby Wahluke Slope and Columbia Crest's home of the Horse Heaven Hills come together for deep purple production rich with plum sauce, blackberries and black Bing cherries. The 26 months in barrel for this Cabernet Sauvignon (48%), Merlot (45%) and Cabernet Franc shows off with wheat toast and chcoolate. There's lots of structure now, and as a product of one of Washington's greatest vintages, this wine will get better in the near term.
Cuillin Hills 2006 Claret, Columbia Valley, 292 cases, 14.3% alc., $28
Outstanding! Derek DesVoigne spends a lot of time wheeling from Woodinville to vineyards in Eastern Washington - in this case Conner Lee, Sagemoor, Wahluke Slope and Weinbau - for the power and grace in his blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. The aromatics include black cherries, cocoa powder, Old Dutch ketchup flavor potato chips and green olive. It's all black cherries and milk chocolate on the attack in a juicy, smooth and balanced fashion.
Daven Lore Winery 2006 Cabernet-Syrah, Washington, 100 cases, 14.6% alc., $25
Recommended. An even-split blend from this young Prosser, Wash., winery produces notes of early crop Bing cherries, pomegranate, Douglas fir, nutmeg and cinnamon in a big and weighty structure.
Daven Lore Winery 2006 Red Tale Red Wine, Washington, 100 cases, 14.3% alc., $25
Recommended. A tribute to their pound-puppy Ben, Cabernet Franc tells the tale of the blend with Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Blueberries, dried Montmorency cherries, cedar and oregano swirl around chalky tannins and lots of acidity with President plums in the finish.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 BFM Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 14.7% alc., $38
Recommended. The blend of Bordeaux varieties refers to "blow your freakin' mind," and it's a softer expression of blueberries, blackberries and cordial cherries with additional notes of chocolate cake, vanilla and black walnuts.
Ferraro Cellar 2006 Mista Rosso, Columbia Valley, 360 cases, 13.6% alc. $20
Recommended. This Willamette Valley winery frequents the Columbia Gorge for fruit. In this case, it's Hillside Vineyard in The Dalles, Ore. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%) and Merlot has lots of entry points for food with notes of plums, strawberry leaf, mineral, green bell pepper, mincemeat and a whole-wheat biscuit. Try this with a Vietnamese pork dish.
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2006 Miss de Miner, Wahluke Slope, 275 cases, 13.8% alc., $28
Outstanding! It's no longer called Balsamroot Winery, but Judy Phelps hasn't changed her standards. She chose Cabernet Sauvignon (68%) and Merlot from Mike Wade's RiverBend Vineyard and dropped them into 50% new oak. There's not much digging needed to unearth aromas of plums, blueberries, Rainier cherries, milk chocolate, vanilla and Shredded Wheat cereal. Between the lips, there's a match, with a smooth focus on black cherries and frontal tannins. But the hallmark for this wine is the slow and gradual finish of cherries, chocolate and plums that penetrate beyond the tannins.
Heymann Whinery 2006 Cab-Merlot, Yakima Valley, 46 cases, 13.6% alc., $20.
Excellent. Bob and Flossie Heymann have gained a following for their fruit wines, but they do a nice job with Harold Pleasant's grapes from Prosser. The aromatics feature warm chocolate and bell pepper, then it's smooth and tasty black cherries and chocolate on the palate.
Hillside Estate Winery 2005 Reserve Series Mosaic, Okanagan Valley, 700 cases, 13% alc., $38 CDN
Excellent. The flagship blend bottling of this winery/bistro overlooking the Naramata Bench is a claret style of Merlot (45%), Cabernet Franc (24%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Petit Verdot (5%) and Malbec. Heavy toast notes showcase aromas of dark chocolate and wheat crackers, but black cherries and spearmint join in. It's very plummy on the entry, backed by black cherries, a balanced structure and more plums and blueberries in the finish. Suggested pairings include osso bucco and roast beef.
Kettle Valley Winery 2006 Old Main Red, Naramata Bench, 980 cases, 14.6% alc., $35 CDN
Recommended. This blend of the five traditional Bordeaux varieties is a product of the estate Old Main and King Drive parcels. There's a greeting of black and pie cherries, blueberries, allspice, cola and celery, and then a spilling forth of cherry jam in the mouth. Red and black plums arrive on the midpalate, channeled by a structure where food-friendly acidity wins out over modest tannins.
Le Chateau 2005 Artisan Blend Castle Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 14.8% alc., $36
Recommended. This new side venture for Claar Cellars is in Walla Walla, and Syrah (60%) leads this blend of Merlot (31%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark chocolaty oak tones are backed by hints of black currants, black cherries, plums, violets and tar. It's more fruit-driven on the palate with black cherries, plums and some soy. Nice acidity balances the grip from tannin, with dried cherries in the finish.
Long Shadows Vintners 2006 Saggi Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 1,725 cases, 14.6% alc., $45
Excellent. Italian winemaker Giovanni Folonari sources from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and Yakima Valley for a Super Tuscan-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (42%), Sangiovese (39%) and Syrah that features aromas of strawberry fruit, black Bing cherries, toasted oak and portabello mushrooms. The structure is a lighter style that leads with juicy black cherries and follows with minerality in a midpalate that targets acidity over tannins. Boysenberries show up brightly in the finish.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Raven Ridge Red, Columbia Valley, 223 cases, 15.1% alc., $22
Excellent. Jones Vineyard supplied both the Cabernet Sauvignon (61%) and Syrah (39%). The older French and American barrels yield notes of Hershey's With Almond chocolate bar and coffee to back the cherry aromas. Blueberry juice, a whipser of blackberries, espresso and more warm chocolate create a drink with a certain amount of elegance.
Page Cellars 2005 Preface, Red Mountain, 480 cases, 14.2% alc., $37
Recommended. A bold blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%), Merlot and Cab Franc from E&E Shaw Vineyards centers on cherries, Hershey's Kisses and Wheat Thins.
Purple Hands 2007 Red Wine, Oregon, 980 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Excellent. There's a thumbprint of greatness in this new project by Cody Wright, who grew up in the home to some of the world's most acclaimed Pinot Noir - Ken Wright Cellars. The hand-picked, hand-sorted and hand-punched blend is Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Franc (5%) from Del Rio Vineyard in the Rogue Valley with Pinot Noir from Abbott Claim in theYamhill-Carlton District. Blackberries, cola and milk chocolate tones include food-friendly touches such as nice acidity and crushed leaf with a finish of dried strawberries.
Quady North 2006 Arsenal Red Wine, Rogue Valley, 60 cases, 14% alc., $39
Recommended. Herb Quady elevated the wines at Troon Vineyards, and he's venturing out with his own line in Jacksonville, Ore. He blends Cab Sauv from the Applegate Valley into Cab Franc of Rogue Valley, and food-loving "Francophiles" will relish this offering of Montmorency cherries, espresso, anise, sandalwood, red bell pepper, celery leaf and a wealth of acidity.
Sawtooth Winery 2006 Alta Terra Red Wine, Snake River Valley, 75 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
Outstanding! It means "high land" in Italian, and Brad Pintler deserves high praise for this Italian blend of Primitivo (24%), Nebbiolo (20%), Barbera (19%), Sangiovese (19%) and Dolcetto (18%). One gets the sense of its pedigree in the nose, with light cherry, cedar, light toast and herbal tones of parsley and collard greens. The quaffable drink leads with sweet and sour cherries, then it's milk chocolate on the midpalate, but the fruit hangs on. Easy tannins make this a good transition wine for those new to reds.
Sawtooth Winery 2003 Elevation, Snake River Valley, 139 cases, 14.5% alc., $25
Recommended. This proprietary blend of Syrah (35%), Petit Verdot (22%), Tempranillo (17%), Malbec (17%) and Primitivo represents varieties from Rhône, Bordeaux, Spain and Italy. The diversity is reflected in the wine, which opens with aromas of blueberries, vanilla bean, stewed plums, tomato paste, dill and sandpaper. The Syrah seems to step to the front on the palate with nice blueberries leading, backed by plums, black cherries and toasty oak. A couple drips of meat juice in the finish helps this pair well with a steak.
Sawtooth Winery 2006 Terra Rouge, Snake River Valley, 80 cases, 14.7% alc., $25
Excellent. Corus CEO Ken McCabe long has been involved with the Rhône Rangers group, and this blend is a full-on tribute with six varieties - Mourvèdre (39%), Syrah (31%), Cinsault (22%), Grenache (5%), Counoise (2%) and Viognier (1%). Heck, why not some Muscardin and Picpoul Noir, too? Beautiful cherries tones in the nose include vanilla, dried strawberries and green peppercorns. More black cherries await on the rich and smooth palate, including nice acidity and some warm cherry pie in the finish.
Snake River Winery 2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Syrah-Grenache-Mourvèdre, Idaho, 315 cases, 13.3% alc., $18
Outstanding! Many believe that Idaho's future is best tied to Rhône varieties, and Scott DeSeelhorst's 75-15-10 blend is a fresh example. Chocolate-covered cherries, rhubarb, white strawberry, cola, citrus and cedar aromas evolve into cherry cola on the palate, then the chocolaty richness comes on like a gangbuster. It's juicy, jammy and finished by cherries.
Sleeping Dog Wines 2005 Tail Wagger Red, Yakima Valley, 30 cases, 14.3% alc., $27
Excellent. Benton City, Wash., attorney Larry Oates is on point with this tongue-lapping blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (81%), Merlot (17%) and Malbec from nearby Buoy Vineyards. A sniff of plums, cherry taffy, blueberry jam, raspberries, cocoa and banana aromas puts you on the tasty trail of super-ripe black cherries, plums and blueberries amid sturdy tannins.
Stella Fino 2006 The Boot, Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.2% alc., $19
Excellent. Elsewhere in the Walla Walla area, a wine of this merit would be in the $30 range. Regardless, this 50/50 blend of Barbera and Sangiovese from Lonesome Spring, Pepper Bridge and underrated Candy Mountain in Richland, Wash., spins out aromas of white strawberries, rhubarb, cranberries, soy sauce and green peppercorns. The bright red fruit unveils itself on the tongue with hints of Craisins and pie cherries, backed by a pleasingly long chocolate undertone. Acidity easily wins out vs. tannins for lots of Italian-themed dishes.
Thurston Wolfe Winery 2006 Doctor Wolfe's Family Red, Washington, 15.0% alc., $16
Excellent. Wade Wolfe holds a Ph.D from the University of California-Davis, and the good doctor checks in again with a delicious prescription of Syrah (39%), Primitivo (20%), Lemberger (19%), Petite Sirah (12%) and Zinfandel. It dispenses a huge dose of strawberries, black cherries, leather and chcoolate cake. A rich and balanced structure provides desired results.
Walla Walla Vintners 2006 Bello Rossa, Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 14.8% alc. $36
Recommended. A Super Tuscan-style wine with Sangiovese (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon features aromas of black currants, cedar, chocolate, coffee and - ironically - mortadella. It's stuffed with flavors of black currant jam and raspberry tea, structured around acidity rather than tannins, and pie cherries in the finish. Suggested fare includes artisan pizza topped with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil and grated Pecorino.
Walla Walla Vintners 2006 Cuvée, Washington, 740 cases, 14.3% alc., $28
Outstanding! Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri could have crafted it as a classic blend of Bordeaux varieties - Merlot (38%), Cabernet Franc (24%), Cabernet Sauvignon (13%), Petit Verdot (7%), Carménère (5%), Malbec (5%) - but they chose a key blending additive in Syrah (5%). Sourcing from eight sites in four appellations produced aromas of black cherries, cigar lleaf, coffeed, cedar and green peppercorns. The black cherry juices up the palate in velvety form with hints of a mocha and blackberries, finished with enjoyable touches of crushed leaf and eucalyptus.
Westport Winery 2007 Jetty Cat Red Wine, Washington, 490 cases, 12% alc., $25
Excellent. This up-and-coming winery in Aberdeen, Wash., bottles more than 20 different wines, but here's its largest single production. Mature oak accents, but doesn't detract from the nose of strawberry pie, blueberries and Graham craker. It's more of the same on the palate, joined by raspberry and lingonberries, livened up by that berry acidity and a bit of seed tannin.
William Church Winery 2006 Bishop's Blend, Columbia Valley, 424 cases, 14.3% alc., $19
Recommended. This Woodinville, Wash., winery offers a blend that tickles the nose with cherry, dark plum, coconut and cocoa powder notes. It follows through with tasty cherry and spicy plum flavors amid a warm and chalky finish.
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