Perhaps one of the most perfect of summer wines is rosé. A chilled dry rosé is a wonderful accompaniment to summertime foods and is light and bright enough for many occasions.
Unfortunately, wine consumers have a love-hate relationship with rosés, partly because of the sweet, insipid blush wines that have come out of California in alarming quantities over the past two decades. Thus, pink wines are looked upon as less than serious.
Fortunately, many Pacific Northwest wineries have begun to focus efforts on crafting high-quality rosés that are seriously delicious. For this judging, Wine Press Northwest collected 66 rosés from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. Of these, 47 made the cut and six earned our top "Outstanding" rating.
It might come as no surprise that Barnard Griffin of Richland, Wash., led the pack as the top wine of this competition, since winemaker Rob Griffin's rosé of Sangiovese has earned high acclaim in judgings across the country during the seven years he has produced it.
"There is an assumption that all the art is in making red wine," said Griffin, who came to Washington from California in the 1977. "That's B.S. You have to have a white wine mentality to make a good rosé. From my perspective, you have to have a concept and follow it."
In his case, Griffin has developed a careful plan. First comes the grape. He believes the best use for Washington Sangiovese is rosé. And through the years, he and grower Maury Balcom have slowly increased the crop load so the grapes will hang longer and develop more interesting flavors without losing acidity or ripening too quickly. In fact, they cap the Sangiovese at eight tons per acre and let it hang through the middle of October.
"It is not for the uninitiated to try," Griffin said with a laugh. "We've carefully dialed this up over the years. It's all about balance."
Our judges for this competition were: Parks Redwine, owner of the Northwest Wine Summit, our region's largest wine competition; Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling, director of Washington State University's viticulture and enology program; Dr. Wade Wolfe, owner/winemaker of Thurston Wolfe in Prosser, Wash.; Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest's tasting editor; Coke Roth, an international wine judge who lives in Richland, Wash.; and Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist. The judging was conducted at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.
The results:
Outstanding
Barnard Griffin Winery 2008 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $13
Best Buy! This tremendous rosé from one of the Northwest's finest producers uses grapes from longtime grower Maury Balcom's vineyard, with just a bit of Grenache blended in. For the past few years, winemaker Rob Griffin's rosé has consistently earned top medals in competitions across North America, so it's no surprise this stood out in our judging. Its gorgeous colors lead to inviting aromas of Rainier cherries and cranberries, followed by tart flavors of lush fruit. Just a touch of tannin provides texture to this amazing wine, which is dry at 0.4% residual sugar. (12.5% alc., 4,500 cases)
Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2008 Rosado, Southern Oregon, $14
Best Buy! Winemaker Andrew Wenzl's first release as head winemaker of this Umpqua Valley winery is nothing short of a stunning achievement and speaks well of his future. This rosé is primarily Garnacha (75%), with Tempranillo (18%) and Mourvèdre in the mix. It offers opulent aromas of cherries, red currants and raspberries, which give way to bright, ripe flavors of cherries and other red fruits. It has a bit of tannin, which provides nice structure for pairing with barbecued chicken or spicy shrimp. (13.8% alc., 258 cases)
Stoneboat Vineyards 2008 Faux Pas Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $17 CDN
Best Buy! The Martiniuk family bought an orchard in the South Okanagan Valley in 1979 and began converting it to wine grapes a half-decade later. Those grapes were sold to surrounding wineries until 2005, when the family decided to launch Stoneboat Vineyards, named for a contraption that was used to move stones out of the way. The wine is a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris and reveals gorgeous aromas of citrus, grapefruit and a hint of cherries. On the palate are flavors of pie cherries and pink grapefruit, all backed up with beautiful balance. Enjoy this with salmon, halibut or chicken salad. (13.6% alc., 120 cases)
Hogue Cellars 2008 Terroir Series Zephyr Ridge Sangiovese Rosato, Horse Heaven Hills, $18
The Yakima Valley's largest winery gets small with its Terroir Series wines, giving Hogue's winemaking team the opportunity to experiment with wines that won't be made in mass quantities. These wines generally are available only in the tasting room. This gorgeous rosé uses grapes from one of the Horse Heaven Hills' top vineyards and shows off beautiful color with aromas of cranberries and cherries. On the palate are slightly tart flavors of wild strawberries perfectly balanced with bright acidity. (12.7% alc., 134 cases)
Greata Ranch Estate Winery 2008 Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $14 CDN
Best Buy! This label and vineyard are owned and operated by CedarCreek Estate Winery in Kelowna, B.C. The vineyard and tasting room are just south of Peachland in the central Okanagan. The property was established more than a century ago as a peach orchard, and wine grapes were planted in 1996. It's a gorgeous wine with reddish-purple tones that reveal aromas of ruby red grapefruit and hedonistic flavors of citrus and cherries. It's wonderfully balanced and will pair well with shellfish, barbecued ribs or a pasta salad. (12.5% alc., 278 cases)
Pêntage Winery 2008 Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $19 CDN
This winery just south of Penticton, B.C., continues to impress us with one superb release after another. Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie launched the winery in 1996, with 17 acres of vines planted since 1997. This rosé of Gamay Noir release marks the debut of winemaker Adam Pearce, an Ontario native who learned his craft in Australia and Europe. It's an amazing effort, with aromas and flavors of cranberries and black cherries, all balanced with persistent acidity. Pair this with chicken, pasta with a puttanesca sauce or grilled salmon. (12.5% alc., 130 cases)
Excellent
Whidbey Island Winery 2008 Rosato, Yakima Valley, $12
Best Buy! Owner/winemaker Greg Osenbach tends his own vines on his property near Langley, Wash., and also brings grapes over the Cascades from famed Crawford Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. This wine is a blend of Sangiovese (68%) and Lemberger and shows off aromas of pie cherries and ripe raspberries. On the palate are more cherries and a hint of lingonberries. It's dry, tart and beautifully balanced and should pair well with barbecued meats or lighter picnic dishes. (13% alc., 100 cases)
Road 13 2008 Honest John's Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN
For years, one of the first wineries U.S. visitors would encounter when they crossed the border into the Okanagan Valley was Golden Mile Cellars. Under the new ownership of Mick and Pam Luckhurst, this operation has a new name - and new attitude. This rosé is primarily Pinot Noir, with a bit of Syrah (6%) blended in. It reveals aromas of pie cherries and flavors of juicy red fruit backed with nice levels of tartness. Beautiful acidity provides balance and length. (12.5% alc., 180 cases)
Blasted Church Vineyards 2008 Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN
Blasted Church near Okanagan Falls, helped kick off the trend in B.C. of creating crazy names for wineries and wines, though this operation backed it up with some fascinating local history that involved a church that was literally blown off its foundation so it could be moved. This rosé had our judges moving in the right direction, too. It's a blend of Syrah, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier and provides charming aromas and flavors of fresh raspberries and just-out-of-the-oven cherry pie. (12.7% alc., 416 cases)
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2008 Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $15 CDN
Best Buy! Famed for its versatility, Jackson-Triggs has developed into one of the Okanagan Valley's largest and finest producers. This rosé is primarily Cabernet Franc, though it has a bit of Syrah and Gewürztraminer blended in for balance and complexity. It's a fascinating wine with aromas of tart berries and flavors of strawberries, cherries and dried cranberries without a trace of bitterness. (13.5% alc., 400 cases)
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir Rosé, Chelan County, $16
Washington's newest appellation (Lake Chelan AVA) could end up being the state's answer to the oft-asked question of where to grow Pinot Noir. This rosé from the winery formerly known as Balsamroot uses grapes from the Cortelli Vineyard on Lake Chelan's south shore. It provides pleasant aromas of cherries and violets and flavors of raspberries and cherries. At 1.1% residual sugar, it shows off just the slightest bit of sweetness, though that is nicely balanced with ample fruit and bright acidity. (13.8% alc., 100 cases)
Airfield Estate 2008 Foot-Stomped Rosé, Yakima Valley, $16
Named for the old-fashioned method by which the grapes were crushed (by the Prosser, Wash., winery's customers, no less), this rosé is a blend of Syrah (80%) and Grenache. Its high alcohol is tempered by bright fruit, including aromas and flavors of marionberries, and solid acidity. We'd suggest pairing this wine with spicy South Indian dishes or perhaps souvlaki. (16% alc., 359 cases)
Indian Creek Winery 2008 White Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley, $8
Best Buy! Owner Bill Stowe came up with this off-dry pink wine in 1988, back when the Idaho wine industry was little more than a footnote in the Gem State - and little wine was being drunk there. This rosé of Pinot Noir has been Indian Creek's best seller since. It's easy to see why. It reveals aromas and flavors of rhubarb sauce along with bright cherries. At 2.5% residual sugar, it has plenty of sweetness, but this isn't just some clone of California Kool-Aid, as it is beautifully balanced with ample fruit and bright acidity. (12.8% alc., 600 cases)
See Ya Later Ranch 2008 Nelly Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $17 CDN
Best Buy! The winery formerly known as Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards honors Hugh Fraser, a local character who lived on the property for many years and dearly loved his dogs. This blend of Gamay Noir, Cabernet Franc and Gewürztraminer is named after one of Major Fraser's beloved dogs. It is loaded with aromas of Bing cherries and shows off a hint of sweetness, which makes it a perfect pairing for barbecued ribs. (14% alc., 1,000 cases)
Jones of Washington 2008 Rosé of Syrah, Columbia Valley, $14
Best Buy! The Jones family runs top vineyards on Washington's Wahluke Slope and launched its winery in the Columbia Basin town of Quincy to take advantage of its highly regarded grapes. This lovely pink wine comes from estate vineyards on the Wahluke Slope and Columbia Valley and shows off vibrant aromas that are distinctly Syrahlike. A blast of luscious plums and blackberries glides across the palate. Gorgeous texture provides ample structure. (13.5% alc., 134 cases)
Sawtooth Estate Winery 2008 Rosé, Snake River Valley, $14
Best Buy! New winemaker Bill Murray crafted the rosé for this longtime Snake River Valley winery using fruit from the estate Sawtooth Vineyard. It is a blend of Syrah (50%) and equal parts Merlot and Muscat Blanc. That latter grape explains the pronounced and elegant orange and lime aromas, which meld alongside hints of plums and vanilla. On the palate are balanced flavors of citrus and ripe plums. It's a full-bodied rosé with nice mouth weight that would pair well with barbecued ribs. (14.5% alc., 160 cases)
Adelsheim Vineyard 2008 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $19
This Oregon pioneer began producing a Pinot Noir rosé in 2005 on the suggestion of co-owners Lynn and Jack Loacker. The grapes come from a variety of vineyards in the Willamette Valley, and a bit of the wine is even fermented in neutral French oak for greater texture. It offers aromas of raspberries, rhubarb and oranges, followed by crisp, clean flavors of peaches and rhubarb-cherry pie. (13.3% alc., 521 cases)
Maysara Winery 2008 Roseena Pinot Noir Rosé, McMinnville, $16
McMinnville is perhaps the least-understood AVA in the northern Willamette Valley because it shares a name with a city that is not within the appellation. But Moe Montazi understands the hilly region well and is a major grower with more than 200 acres of vines. This rosé is superb from first whiff through the elegant finish. It opens with aromas of rhubarb, grapefruit and Rainier cherries, followed by flavors of cherries and cranberries. Bright acidity and moderate alcohol make this a great summer sipper. (12.5% alc., 300 cases)
Kestrel Vintners 2008 Falcon Series Rosé, Yakima Valley, $12
Best Buy! This Prosser, Wash., winery has made rosé for five vintages now, and the wines are consistently delicious. This uses grapes from a variety of nearby Yakima Valley vineyards and is a proprietary blend that shows off beautiful, classic color. It provides aromas and flavors of cherries and is beautifully balanced. Enjoy with lighter Italian dishes or spicy Mexican or Thai. (13.4% alc., 537 cases)
Claar Cellars NV White Bluffs Busty Blush Rosé, Columbia Valley, $13
Best Buy! Though this is labeled as a nonvintage wine, the grapes for this Sangiovese rosé came from the 2008 vintage, all from the estate White Bluffs Vineyard overlooking the Columbia River. It opens with lovely aromas of apples and limes, followed by flavors of cranberries and red cherries. A portion of the proceeds for this wine is donated to the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center to support breast cancer research, hence the name. (12% alc., 100 cases)
Ponzi Vineyards 2008 Rosato, Willamette Valley, $17
Our 2009 Oregon Winery of the Year has crafted a rosé made from Pinot Noir grown on 40-year-old vines in the Willamette Valley. It opens with aromas of Pink Lady apples, cherries and rhubarb, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and a hint of lavender. Enjoy this with barbecued chicken or a vegetarian lasagna. (13.25% alc., 487 cases)
Syncline Wine Cellars 2008 Rosé, Columbia Valley, $16
James and Poppie Mantone have established their winery as one of the top producers in the Columbia River Gorge. This rosé is a fascinating Southern Rhône-style blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Counoise, four varieties that are generally out of the mainstream for most wine lovers. The result is a gorgeous wine with aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries and red currants, all backed with elegant acidity and plenty of length. (13.8% alc., 610 cases)
A to Z Wineworks 2008 Rosé, Oregon, $12
Best Buy! Former Domaine Drouhin Oregon GM Bill Hatcher now runs A to Z, Oregon's largest winery. This wine is 100% Sangiovese, perhaps a bit surprising for an Oregon wine except that the grapes come from highly touted Del Rio Vineyards in the Rogue Valley. It provides aromas of dark cherries, followed by flavors of red plums and cherries. This is a fruit-laden wine that also shows off ample acidity. (13.5% alc., 2,236 cases)
Maryhill Winery 2007 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $13
Best Buy! We've come to expect great things from our 2009 Washington Winery of the Year, especially with rosé. The 2006 version of this wine earned a rare Double Platinum in our 2007 year-end best-of-the-best competition. This vintage is no slouch, thanks to aromas of ripe raspberries and flavors of cherries and hints of cranberries. Pair this wine with light summer dishes or enjoy on its own in a hot tub. (14.5% alc., 1,406 cases)
Stoller Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir Rosé, Dundee Hills, $17
Bill and Cathy Stoller teamed up with longtime wine grower Harry Peterson-Nedry to create this winery in Oregon's famed Dundee Hills. Melissa Burr has overseen winemaking here since 2003 and has crafted a luscious rosé with aromas of oranges and strawberries. On the palate are flavors of raspberries and cherries backed with bright acidity. (14.3% alc., 350 cases)
Firesteed Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé, Oregon, $13
Best Buy! For a decade, Firesteed was known as a "virtual winery" because its wines were produced by others and it didn't have a facility of its own. This changed when the Seattle-based company purchased Flynn Winery near Salem, Ore. (where most of the wines were being made). This affordable rosé is loaded with fruit, including cherries on the nose and strawberries and raspberries on the palate. It's a nicely balanced wine that will pair with a wide variety of dishes, including shellfish, chicken or Asian-inspired cuisine. (13.2% alc., 600 cases)
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2008 Private Reserve Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $14 CDN
Best Buy! Our 2003 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year continues to shine as one of the must-visit producers in the Okanagan Valley. This rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir, Ehrenfelser and Gamay Noir. It reveals aromas of red grapefruit and cherries, followed by luscious flavors of raspberries. This wine should have broad appeal and will pair well with everything from chicken salad to roast turkey. (13% alc.)
Recommended
San Juan Vineyards 2008 Afterglow, Washington, $17
This is one of the rarest wines you'll find in Washington because it blends fruit from both sides of the Cascade Mountains. This Friday Harbor producer used 63% Madeleine Angevine from its estate vineyards with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese from the Columbia and Yakima Valleys. The result is a wine with aromas of starfruit and orange zest, followed by flavors of cranberries, pie cherries and rhubarb. (12.7% alc., 192 cases)
Masset Winery 2008 Rosato, Yakima Valley, $17
Owner/winemaker Greg Masset gained fame first for his abilities in the kitchen (he's the executive chef at the Yakima Country Club) but is earning a reputation in the Yakima Valley for his wines, as well. This bright rosé provides hints of apples in the aromas and flavors, as well as notes of cranberries. This is an easy-to-like wine that will pair with everything from mild cheeses to barbecued ribs. (13% alc., 62 cases)
Yellow Hawk Cellar 2008 Rosato, Columbia Valley, $12
Best Buy! This small producer in the Walla Walla Valley used Lemberger from famed Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills to craft a delicous rosé. It bursts with aromas and flavors of citrus and berries, all backed with firm acidity. (13.9% alc., 91 cases)
Gray Monk Estate Winery NV Odyssey Rosé Brut, Okanagan Valley, $27 CDN
This longtime B.C. winery has crafted a tasty sparkling rosé made in the dry style. It is a blend of Gamay Noir and Pinot Meunier (a traditional Champagne variety) that shows off tart crispness, hints of cherries and melons and is downright delicious. (12.4% alc., 220 cases)
Westport Winery NV Bog Berry Blush, Washington, $24
Washington's only coastal winery is in the town of Aberdeen. This is a white wine infused with cranberries and is a real sweetie at 13% residual sugar. It's an enjoyable sipper with unmistakable aromas and flavors of cranberries and raspberries. Chill a bottle of this and head to the beach. (11% alc., 233 cases)
Raptor Ridge Winery 2008 Gamay Noir Rosé, Oregon, $16
This winery near Newberg, Ore., is so named because it shares its 27-acre property with hawks, owls and kestrels. This rosé of Gamay Noir boasts cherries and raspberries on the aromas and cranberries, wild plums and strawberries on the palate. It's deliciously tart and would be perfect with summer barbecues. (12.5% alc., 63 cases)
3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2008 Reserve Rosé, Snake River Valley, $16
This young producer in Eagle, Idaho, uses certified organic grapes from estate vineyards, and the wines are crafted by longtime Idaho winemaker Greg Koenig. This wine is a blend of Merlot (82%) and Grenache and provides aromas and flavors of raspberries, strawberries and rosewater. (13.2% alc., 445 cases)
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Nellie's Garden Dry Rosé, Columbia Valley, $10
Best Buy! This Syrah-based rosé (with 2% Grenache) was a collaboration of Ste. Michelle's red and white winemaking teams. It is an elegant wine with aromas and flavors of fresh raspberries and plenty of acidity backing up the ample fruit. It should pair well with smoked salmon or pasta salad. (13% alc., 22,000 cases)
Patterson Cellars 2008 Rosé, Washington, $15
Best Buy! Longtime winemaker John Patterson owns and operates this winery in Woodinville, Wash., with his father, Jack. This rosé is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc and shows off aromas and flavors of plums and blackberries with hints of smoke and black olives. (13.9% alc., 56 cases)
Cave B Estate Winery 2008 Saignée, Columbia Valley, $18
Winemaker Freddy Arredondo crafted the rosé for this George, Wash., winery using Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a fascinating wine with aromas and flavors of pomegranates and red currants. Enjoy this with roasted duck or turkey or a plate of mild cheeses. (12.9% alc., 276 cases)
Page Cellars 2008 Rose-eh, Columbia Valley, $17
Owner Jim Page used fruit from famed Red Mountain for this rosé, which is a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It's a darker-hued rosé with aromas and flavors of blackberries and boysenberries. It's a fairly big wine with plenty of acidity backing up the ample fruit. (14.1% alc., 56 cases)
St. Hubertus Estate Winery 2008 Frizzante Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $15 CDN
Best Buy! Winemaking brothers Andy and Leo Gebert have rebuilt their Kelowna, B.C., winery after losing it to a massive wildfire in 2003. This rose provides aromas and flavors of cherries, rhubarb and citrus, and its bright acidity leads to a lingering finish. (12% alc., 579 cases)
Maison de Padgett Winery NV Lip Service Rosé, Rattlesnake Hills, $15
Best Buy! Owner/winemaker David Padgett will never be accused of not having fun. His whimsically named wines (and equally fascinating labels) should not leave one with the impression that the wines are not seriously good. This rosé comes in a magnum and is a blend of Muscat Canelli and Cabernet Sauvignon. It's quite sweet at 8.4% residual sugar and is loaded with fruit. (11.9% alc., 1,400 cases)
Camas Prairie Winery 2008 Sarah's Blush, Washington, $12
Best Buy! Owner/winemaker Stu Scott produced this luscious rosé using Lemberger grapes from famed Champoux Vineyards in Washington's Horse Heaven Hills. It's loaded with aromas and flavors of cranberries, cherries and hints of rhubarb. (12.6% alc., 140 cases)
Tucker Cellars NV Indian Summer Pinot Noir, Yakima Valley, $9
Best Buy! This longtime winery in the Yakima Valley town of Sunnyside uses estate fruit for this somewhat rare Washington Pinot Noir rosé. It is true to form with aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries and hints of wild strawberries. (12% alc., 600 cases)
Davis Creek Cellars 2008 Skyline Vineyard Rosé of Syrah, Snake River Valley, $10
Best Buy! Winemaker Gina Davis worked at some of Idaho's top wineries before stepping out on her own. This rosé uses grapes from one of the Snake River Valley's most important vineyards and shows off aromas and flavors of cherries and raspberries. It's a delicious, well-balanced wine. (14.9% alc., 43 cases)
Folin Cellars 2008 Tempranillo Rosé, Rogue Valley, $20
This young producer from Southern Oregon focuses much of its energy on producing wines using Tempranillo. This rare rosé offers aromas and flavors of lingonberries with hints of chocolate. (13.5% alc., 75 cases)
Thornhaven Estates 2007 Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $17 CDN
Best Buy! This winery near Summerland, B.C., has crafted a rosé from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Merlot and Orange Muscat. It is off-dry at 1.5% residual sugar and shows off aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries and hints of rosewater. (12.4% alc., 193 cases)
Townshend Cellar NV T3R, Columbia Valley, $15
Best Buy! This Spokane, Wash., winery blended Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc to produce a rosé with bright aromas and flavors of fresh Rainier cherries and hints of cranberries. (13% alc., 350 cases)
Gray Monk Estate Winery 2007 Rotberger Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $16 CDN
Best Buy! Rotberger is a rare grape variety developed in Germany in the 1920s. The Heiss family grows the grapes for its rosé, and the resulting wine is bright and delicious, revealing aromas and flavors of raspberries. (11.9% alc., 860 cases) e
Andy Perdue is editor of Wine Press Northwest.
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