Sunday, Jun. 21, 2009

Summer's brimming bounty

By Braiden Rex-Johnson, Wine Press Northwest

After one of the worst winters on record, followed by a dubious start to "spring," Northwesterners are keeping fingers crossed that summer delivers warmth and sunshine along with our region's (typical) bounty: fresh asparagus; heirloom tomatoes and peppers; plump cherries, berries and stone fruits; and succulent summer salmon.

We begin our bounteous summer feast with Crispy Asparagus Straws, a recipe from the California Asparagus Commission. Begin by blanching 36 trimmed asparagus spears until barely tender. Rinse in iced water to stop the cooking, drain and pat dry.

Place one sheet of thawed filo dough on a cutting board and brush with one tablespoon of melted butter. Cut the sheet into nine rectangles by making two cuts down from the top and two from the side. Sprinkle the cut sheet evenly with one ounce (approximately six tablespoons) of freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Place an asparagus spear on the bottom (narrow end) of each buttered rectangle with the tip sticking from the dough by about two inches. Roll up the spear and seal with additional melted butter. Using three more filo sheets, repeat the rolling process with the remaining asparagus spears.

Arrange the spears on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush each spear lightly with melted butter, sprinkle with additional Parmesan cheese and season with salt and pepper. Cover the tips with aluminum foil and bake at 425 degrees for 10 to 12 minutes, until crispy and browned.

Serve the warm asparagus straws with Wood River Cellars 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($15) from Idaho's Snake River Valley. It's grassy and herbal, but not overly acidic. With a crisp mid-palate, this wine will cut the saltiness of the cheese while complementing the earthy notes in the asparagus.

Garden-Fresh Gazpacho, a recipe from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) comes from Penny and Ken Durant, owners of Red Ridge Farms in Dayton, Ore. It's made by pulsing three-quarters of a pound of heirloom tomatoes along with one large peeled and chopped cucumber; one small, coarsely chopped white or yellow onion; one coarsely chopped medium green bell pepper (seeds and membranes removed); one (four-ounce) jar drained pimientos; and half of one (11.5-ounce) can of tomato juice in a food processor until smooth.

Pour into a large mixing bowl and repeat with the same amounts of vegetables and the remaining half can of tomato juice. Pour into a mixing bowl and stir together with another 11.5-ounce can of tomato juice, three tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, one-third cup of red wine vinegar, one-and-one-half teaspoons kosher salt, one-quarter teaspoon Tabasco sauce and one-eighth teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper. Cover and refrigerate at least two hours and preferably overnight.

Penny Durant suggests serving the soup (garnished with garlic croutons in well-chilled soup bowls) along with Durant Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay ($16) from Oregon's Dundee Hills. With aromas and flavors of pineapple and citrus, the wine is crisp and refreshing, and plays off nicely with the acidity in the soup.

Summer Salmon with Simple Soy Glaze comes from the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2007, $14.95). To make the glaze, in a small bowl whisk together one tablespoon each canola oil; regular or low-sodium soy sauce; honey, brown sugar or maple syrup; and Dijon mustard. Whisk in one-and-one-half teaspoons of prepared horseradish.

Lightly oil a broiling pan with a rack. Arrange about two pounds of salmon fillets or steaks on the rack and brush lightly with the glaze. Broil three to four inches from the heat source for three minutes, then brush the fillets again. After three minutes, brush once more, then continue broiling until the salmon reaches desired doneness.

Pair the succulent salmon with Tantalus Vineyards 2008 Riesling ($23 CDN) from B.C.'s Okanagan Valley. Made with grapes from 20-year-old vines, the wine opens with an intense aromatic bouquet followed by zingy lime and passionfruit flavors on the palate. Its juicy acidity pairs perfectly with many different cuisines, or sips supremely on its own.

We conclude our summer feast with a cool, refreshing palate cleanser - Gewürztraminer Sorbet - from Short Cuts to Great Cuisine (The Crossing Press, 1994, $12.95). Since the dessert is frozen, be sure to choose a Gewürztraminer with pronounced varietal aromas and flavors of rosewater, orange and lychee. I like to use Snoqualmie Winery Naked Gewürtraminer, Latitude 46°N or the hypnotic Sleight of Hand Cellars 2007 The Magician Gewürztraminer ($17) from the Columbia Valley, which tantalizes with intriguing flavors of peach, lychee and a hint of exotic spice.

Begin by blending three-quarters of a cup of sugar with one cup of The Magician in a small, heavy saucepan. Stir over medium heat to dissolve the sugar. When the mixture looks clear, remove it from the heat and blend it with the remaining wine and two teaspoons of fresh lemon juice. Freeze in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions and serve immediately, or repackage and freeze for up to one week.

Spoon the sorbet into wine goblets and garnish with crispy Italian ladyfingers. Open another bottle of Gewürz and raise a glass to summer's brimming bounty!

Braiden Rex-Johnson has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 18 years. She is the author of seven books, including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining (Wiley, 2007). Read her blog, Northwest Notes, online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com.

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