Kelowna is the perfect place to begin exploring British Columbia's largest wine-growing region.
It's centrally located in the Okanagan Valley, framed by picture-postcard views of lakes and mountains and a cluster of outstanding wineries, restaurants and artisan-food producers.
Wineries: Twenty-one of British Columbia's 98 wineries nestle near the towns of Kelowna and Westbank. One of the world's most beautiful wineries, Mission Hill Family Estate, rises up like a grand Italian villa in a residential section of Westbank. Sign up for a tour of the dramatic underground barrel room, taste through award-winning wines, then lunch at The Terrace restaurant.
Just down the hill lies Quails' Gate Estate Winery, where the tasting room offers nonstop views of the lake, while the Old Vines Patio restaurant serves up top-shelf food, sophisticated service and the chance to dine in the estate vineyards.
Summerhill Pyramid Winery, British Columbia's largest certified-organic winery and brainchild of Stephen Cipes, is believed to be the only winery in the world aging wine in a pyramid. Tours of the pyramid cost $5 and are given four times each afternoon. Don't miss a meal at the Sunset Bistro.
CedarCreek Estate Winery produces some of the valley's most popular and highly regarded wines, including Ehrenfelser, Merlot and Pinot Noir. It's a great place to enjoy a summer concert and open-air lunch.
Tantalus Vineyards (open Friday through Sunday in season, or by appointment) sits on a beautiful parcel where old-vine Riesling produces top-notch wines. And Little Straw Vineyards is justly proud of its Barrel Top Grill.
Up in Lake Country, Gray Monk Estate Winery offers stunning views of the water and estate vineyards from the Grapevine Restaurant. Arrowleaf Cellars offers fascinating cool-climate varieties such as Bacchus and Zwiegelt.
Food: In March, the Okanagan's first white-tablecloth restaurant, Fresco, morphed into a casual eatery called RauDZ (pronounced "Rod's"), but remains under the steady hand of chef Rod Butters. Bouchons serves French bistro-style food in a cozy atmosphere.
Wine bars include The Rotten Grape (featuring the valley's first Enomatic wine-dispensing system), Vintropolis and Waterfront Wines Restaurant & Wine Bar.
Outside of downtown Kelowna, on Lakeshore Road, you'll enjoy food-and-wine pairing at Wild Apple at Manteo Resort, baked goods at La Boulangerie Bakery/Pastry/Deli, the wrap-around patio and fire pit at Cabana Bar and Grille, elevated pub grub at Pheasant and Quail Pub, Seven Six Four Restaurant (operated by chef Mark Filatow of Waterfront Wines fame) and Sunday brunch at Hotel Eldorado.
Other foodie haunts include Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan (goat's-milk cheese and gelato), Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads (artisan bread and baked goods), The Jammery (local fruit jams made right before your eyes), Raven Ridge Cidery, Tree Brewing Co., Okanagan Lavender Herb Farm and the Kelowna Farmers Market.
Lodging: Bed down in the vineyards at small, family-run bed-and-breakfast inns or opt for the recently remodeled Delta Grand Okanagan Resort and Conference Centre in the heart of Kelowna's cultural district. A short drive from downtown, Manteo Resort offers secluded comfort and soulful walks along Lake Okanagan. In Westbank, The Cove Lakeside Resort is aptly named for its cove-front location.
And don't leave home without your passport! Passports are required as of June 1, 2009.
More info: Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association: totabc.com; British Columbia Official Tourism Site: hellobc.com. During the annual Okanagan Fall Wine Festival (Oct. 1-11), 165 wine-related events are offered throughout the Okanagan Valley. Learn more at owfs.com.
BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON is a Seattle-based writer and columnist for Wine Press Northwest.
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