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It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."
PROSSER -- Construction is expected to start soon on the next phase of what backers say will be the state's premier educational and promotional center for Washington's wines and food products.
The folks at Walla Walla Vintners wanted to know how their 13 vintages of Merlots were holding up, and they invited a few critics to come along for the trip down memory lane.
So this spring, owners Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri staged their tasting, which was orchestrated by Wine Press Northwest master facilitator Hank Sauer.
It's always a joy to visit Walla Walla Vintners. The setting is scenic as the landmark red barn overlooks Mill Creek and the tree-covered Blue Mountains serve as a backdrop. It's a modest winery and now surrounded by vineyards, a testament to the growth of the Walla Walla wine industry.
"We do our own evaluation of our wines, but we decide to take it a step further and invited in some outsiders for their opinions," Venneri said.
Winemakers build their libraries of different vintages and varieties and periodically evaluate them via vertical tastings.
I've been to several of these and enjoy them because they provide a look at history and a peek at what is to come.
Showing no fear, Anderson and Venneri lined up a tasting panel that included three of their Walla Walla Valley peers - Gary Figgins of Leonetti, Rick Small of Woodward Canyon and Jean-François Pellet of Pepper Bridge - and a pair of columnists from national magazines.
"The consensus was that all of the wines seemed to have held up pretty well," Venneri said.
It's difficult to find much consensus on how long Merlots made in the New World age. Some say three to five years. Others maintain five to 15 years and beyond.
Because of the softer tannins, Merlot is believed to not possess the aging characteristic of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Most Pacific Northwest red wines are consumed within a few years and are enjoyable for many years if properly cellared.
Such was the case with these Merlots from Walla Walla Vintners, a lineup that started with the 1995 vintage and ended with the 2007 vintage.
Venneri and Anderson produced home-crafted wines for many years before making commercial wines. They honed their skills, took mistakes to the landfill and forged a successful partnership. Venneri is an accountant. Anderson is the founding director of the Walla Walla Institute for Enology and Viticulture. He retired in 2007.
Walla Walla Vintners bottles blends as well as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Merlot and Sangiovese.
"We often blend small amounts of Carmenérè, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Syrah to elevate the charm and elegance of our wines," Venneri said.
They release small amounts of Petit Verdot, Syrah and Malbec while specializing in making wines from grapes grown in the Walla Walla Valley appellation.
In January 1995, they decided to take a chance and become the eighth bonded winery in the Walla Walla AVA. They made 675 cases the first year. Production now is about 5,000 cases annually.
My favorites from the tasting were all from the Walla Walla Valley, the 1997, the 2005 and the current release, 2007.
This was a particularly special tasting as the visiting winemakers, each of whom create fine Merlots, reminisced about what happened during the growing season for a particular vintage.
The 1996 vintage was especially difficult because of a bad winter freeze. As a result, Merlot, one of the more tender varieties, was in short supply throughout the Northwest.
The following are some of my and other tasters' comments.
1995 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Tobacco, chocolate with oak essences took over the fruit.
1997 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: A lovely dark cherry bouquet and complex berry flavors show that it still has a lot of life left. I found it wonderful from start to finish.
1997 Merlot, Yakima Valley: Juicy berry fruit was somewhat on the tart side with slightly vegetal aromas.
1998 Merlot, Columbia Valley: Spice and green tea aromas greet you with some Jolly Rancher candy to add to the blackberry flavors.
1999 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Huge cherry and berry beginning turns to coffee and chocolate with a lush, smooth finish.
2000 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: A touch of sexy leather aromas. Flavors of plums and blueberries.
2001 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Loaded with spice and multiple berry fruit. This vintage was praised by experts when it was released, and it's holding up well.
2002 Merlot, Columbia Valley: Think big dark Bing cherries. The 18 percent Cabernet Sauvignon makes this a delicious wine with blackberry jam flavors.
2003 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Oh so smooth! A delightful chocolate and espresso beginning marries well with smooth blackberry flavors.
2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley: Big and juicy with grapes from six different vineyards adds complexity. A lavender nose with dark currant flavors.
2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: A delicious steak-friendly wine with great acidity and notes of cranberry, coffee and a hint of caramel.
2006 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Milk chocolate and ripe black olives along with wild berry jam flavors make for a classic wine to serve with a savory Belgian stew.
2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $28: Sweet oak aromas and fresh ripe berries makes this a ready to enjoy now or later with slow-roasted short ribs.
BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest's tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.
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