Saturday, Apr. 18, 2009

Rating chowders

By Andy Perdue, Wine Press Northwest

I enjoy Northwest seafood - and there's little I love more than clam chowder.

This is a bit of a departure for a wine writer, but here are my thoughts on four chowders I've tasted in the past two days on the northern Oregon Coast. All were delicious in their own ways, but just like wine, I have put this in order of preference.

No. 4: Mo's, Cannon Beach. When they put "chowder" in their domain name, you know they're serious. This is classic New England style chowder in a regionally famous eatery with a fabulous view of the Pacific and Haystack Rock. It's good and chunky, and Mo's earns extra points for family friendliness (my 5-year-old was quite happy with the service).

No. 3: Bill's Tavern, Cannon Beach. A great stop for lunch in downtown Cannon Beach. There's nothing like a bowl of chowder and a local microbrew on a rainy April afternoon. Loved the texture of this chowder and the big chunks of cured bacon. Great atmosphere (though I didn't take my 5-year-old on this excursion).

No. 2: Cannon Beach Cafe. Inside the Cannon Beach Hotel, this in the same location formerly occupied by JP's, one of my favorite coastal restaurants (which now is in downtown Cannon Beach). This was a fabulous seafood chowder, with a somewhat lighter broth but loaded with clams, mussels and more. I gave our daughter a little taste, then she bogarted the rest of the bowl.

No. 1: Bridgewater Bistro, Astoria. The clam and mussel chowder was a favorite at the Kischners' Shoalwater Restaurant in Seaview, Wash., for 27 years and was a big hit one year at Taste Washington (back in the Paramount Theater days). It's still a huge hit at the Kischners' new location under the bridge across the Columbia. As much as he might like to mix up the menu, owner Tony Kischner would never dare mess with this fabulous creation.

Anybody out there have a favorite Northwest chowder review to share?