Here are the red wines reviewed in our Recent Releases section of the Spring 2009 issue of Wine Press Northwest. Wines are categorized by variety and style.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Airfield Estates 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, 360 cases, 13.3% alc., $22
Outstanding! Marcus Miller and his family cropped this site, planted in 1989, to three tons per acre, and the combination of French and American oak for 18 months give it lift. A twist of the screwcap allows the cherries, almonds and chocolate in the nose to touch down on the palate. The frontal entry of fruit is impressive with cherries and blueberries, and silky milk chocolaty tannins keep the structure from rattling before the farewell of coffee.
Airfield Estates 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, 160 cases, 13.3% alc., $32
Excellent. This young winery in Prosser, Wash., focused on French oak for this program and has the guts to put it under screwcap. Only seven of 25 barrels made the cut for this reserve, and the notes run from raspberry to cherry character with pleasing herbal tones. It's fruity and bright on the entry with tamed alcohol levels but warmed up by rich, big, chocolaty tannins on the back end.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, 13.9% alc., $18
Outstanding! It's becoming rare to find a wine of this quality and pedigree - Bacchus, Dionysus, Stillwater, Katherine Leone and the estate Wahluke Slope Vineyard - at this price. But here it is with big chocolaty and earthy aromas. Bittersweet chocolate hits the taste buds initially, joined up by blackberries and dark currants. It gives way to bold tannins and finishes with a flourish.
Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 348 cases, 14.2% alc., $38
Recommended. Bangsund and neighboring Ashmore vineyards in The Dalles, Ore. supply all the fruit for this food-friendly Cab that features pomegranates, dried cherries, strawberry leaf and tremendous acidity.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 5,400 cases, 14.3% alc., $28
Excellent. One of Washington's steamiest sites produces Cab that warms up to barrel aging, and it wears the 21 months of powerful French oak well. Black currants and huckleberries abound with Baker's chocolate and saddle leather tones. It's boldly structured for the long haul, yet it will sidle up nicely with veal or pasta covered in a red sauce.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Ethos Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 1,800 cases, 14.4% alc., $38
Recommended. Cold Creek Vineyard and the Wahluke Slope played almost equal roles here, and the results yield blackberries, bittersweet chocolate and mint. Enjoy with food matches such as flank steak marinated with thyme, a T-bone with blue cheese or Death By Chocolate.
DavenLore Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.6% alc., $25
Excellent. Gordon Taylor and Joan Davenport have been behind the scenes in the Washington wine industry for years, but they've only recently started their own winery in Prosser. Black cherries, earth, alfalfa, chalkboard dust and cedar start to describe the aromas. Cherry and blackberry flavors spill out with plums across an easy-going structure that finishes with a slurp of a grape Popsicle.
Dumas Station Wines 2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, 295 cases, 14% alc., $32
Outstanding! Jay DeWitt wears lots of hats at this young operation in a mid-1800s train station in Dayton, Wash. He owns the winery, makes the wine and owns/manages the estate Minnick Hills Vineyard. Rich aromas of expensive oak include toffee, vanilla bean and black cherries. There's more black fruit on the palate, featuring wild blackcap raspberries and a crunch of the seed amid the juicy acidity and velvety tannins.
Hightower Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 355 cases, 14.2% alc., $35
Excellent. Plums and blackberries are met in the nose by a hint of Fig Newton cookie. There's more purple fruit on the attack with an opulence in the midpalate of cherries and blackberries. Firm tannins are finished with red currants.
Holmes and Harbor Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, 92 cases, 13.9% alc., $28
Outstanding! The marriage of Greg and Theresa Martinez, the latter with a career in chemistry, has helped put Greenbank, Wash., on the winemaking map with its first vintage. Fruit from well-known Les Collines Vineyard fills the glass with aromas of black cherries, strawberry fruit leather, raspberry and some leafiness. Drink in tones of candied black cherries, moist earth, milk chocolate and oregano, and the finish is reminiscent of a raspberry reduction sauce.
Martinez & Martinez Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, 137 cases, 14.3% alc., $30
Excellent. This Martinez family has been involved with Horse Heaven Hills vineyards since 1981, and so it is quite familiar with the Alder Ridge fruit used in this debut vintage. Chukar Cherries, Italian herbs, citrus peel and oak form the base of the aromas. Juicy wild mountain berries and pie cherries drift into a structure akin to a "Left Bank" Bordeaux with some bittersweet chocolate in the finish.
Mercer Estates 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, 694 cases, 14.5% alc., $24
Excellent. This vintage marked the end of Mike Hogue's noncompete clause after selling his namesake winery to Constellation, so he joined forces with the Mercer family, lured winemaker David Forysth from Hogue Cellars and it's game on. The Cab hails from Andrews Vineyard with Merlot (5%) trucked in from Desert Wind on the Wahluke Slope to help form a bouquet of boysenberries, Rainier cherries, blueberries, lilac, mincemeat and whole wheat toast. It's a delicious drink with blackberries, deep cheep and wonderful chocolate notes. A bit of oregano adds complexity, and there's a sip of coffee before heading out the door. Drying tannins are the thing holding this back at the moment, but time will change that.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, 284 cases, 14.2% alc., $28
Outstanding! This year, winemaker Randy Finley also celebrates his 20th anniversary as the winery's owner. His travels to Ranch at End of the Road, Lonesome Springs, Crawford and Portteus vineyards are rewarded here as blueberries, allspice and Baker's chocolate dominate the senses. The juicy structure finds balance with smooth tannins and more chocolate in the farewell. We'd suggest pairing this with grilled steak topped with sautéed Walla Walla Sweet Onions.
Northwest Totem Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, 183 cases, 13.2% alc., $30
Excellent. The wine community in Woodinville, Wash., continues to grow, and while Mike Sharadin didn't arrive in the first waves, Cabs such as this help him stand out from the crowd. Cola, blackberries, green olives, moist earth and cedar aromas are matched on the palate and joined by Rainier cherries, dusty tannins and saddle leather.
NxNW 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, 401 cases, 13.5% alc., $35
Outstanding! One of Oregon's leading wineries, King Estate in Eugene, scores a 10.0 with its first dive in the Walla Walla Valley. Seven Hills fruit, winemaker John Albin and a historic vintage create a nose of blue fruit, cloves, vanilla bean, cedar, crushed walnuts, chocolate and leather. The splash is akin to that of a cannonball. It's a big, fat wine with tremendous complexity, brimming with sweet black cherries and bright blueberries that impart acidity over rich tannins. Enjoy with a porterhouse seasoned with chimichurri.
NxNW 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, 3,776 cases, 14.5% alc., $25
Excellent. This marked the second vintage of King Estate's big red program in the Walla Walla Valley, and the last year during which the wines were made outside of the valley. Seven Hills remained a part of the mix, but nearby Pepper Bridge and the Yakima Valley's Elephant Mountain contributed to this more classic Cab. Black cherries, crushed walnuts and bell pepper aromas are matched in the mouth. There's a wealth of tannins but an abundance of acidity, too, for aging at least five to seven years.
Tasawik Vineyards 2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla County, 214 cases, 13.6% alc., $26
Excellent. Named after a historic Palouse Indian village, this young vineyard delivered a wine filled with aromas of strawberries, teriyaki and alder smoke. A big mouthful of juicy mountain berries and their acidity is met by gritty tannins that lend this wine to a buffalo burger topped with Gruyère.
Pinot Noir
Anne Amie Vineyards 2007 Cuvée A Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 3,200 cases, 13.3% alc., $25
Outstanding! One of the Northwest's most prized Pinot Noir houses reached into eight different vineyards - leading with Hawks View - and pulled out a real treat at an approachable price point. Enticing aromas feature plums, Bing cherries, cardamom, black pepper and rain-drenched earth. Rich cherry and boysenberry flavors step into a great depth of character in the structure with touches of red licorice in the flourish of finesse in the finish.
Carabella Vineyard 2006 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, 1,800 cases, 14.7% alc., $39
Excellent. MIke Hallock's estate collection of five clones - (Dijon 115, 114, 133), Pommard and Wadenswil - delivered aromas of strawberry, cherry and black pepper. There's a cherry/chocolate presentation on the palate with a pleasing structure of blueberry acidity and very little tannin.
Dunham & Froese Estate Winery 2007 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, 100 cases, 13.5% alc., $26 CDN
Recommended. Dusty plums, red-toned fruit and green peppercorn aromas lead into a dark brooding fruit palate with a smoky overhang. It's done in a lighter, easy-drinking style, but pair it with grilled pork tenderloin with plum chutney and this wine will sing.
King Estate 2006 Block 4D Clone 777 Pinot Noir, Oregon, 140 cases, 13.5% alc., $75
Recommended. Here marks the 15th vintage off the organic Domaine estate vineyard, and this is about as fruit-forward and friendly a Pinot Noir you'll find. Rainier cherries, loganberries and plums brush your nostrils. Inside are more plums and loganberries with some black walnut in a remarkably delicate tannin structure with good acidity.
King Estate 2006 Domaine Pinot Noir, Oregon, 982 cases, 13.9% alc., $60
Excellent. Most of these vines in Bellpine soil were around 10 years old, and they produced a fine expression of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. Aromatics include crushed cherries, blueberries, vanilla, peppermint and orange peel. That's followed by more cherries and blueberries and their acidity. Smooth tannins give way to a scrape of orange zest that signals the finish.
Kramer Vineyards 2005 Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, 300 cases, 13.3% alc., $18
Outstanding! It doesn't officially qualify as a "Best Buy," but for Pinot Noir, it might as well. Even Trudy Kramer admits she's surprised at how well this is drinking, starting with a beckoning of cranberries, raspberries, pie cherries, chocolate, cedar, leather and a bit of leafiness. What awaits is an easy drink with more cherries, chocolate, allspice and strawberry with the leaf. Zesty acidity makes for a wide assortment of food pairings.
Kramer Vineyards 2005 Heritage Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, 100 cases, 13.5% alc., $40
Outstanding! Trudy Kramer continues to craft wholesome and honest wines, and this might be the best example. The product of her oldest vines, own-rooted Pommard dating to 1984, expresses pie cherry, cedar and cola aromas. It's a food-friendly and balanced drink with flavors of dominated by cherries and allspice, set against a landscape of smooth tannins.
Nk'Mip Cellars 2007 Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, 1,246 cases, 13.9% alc., $30 CDN
Recommended. The reserve-tier offering presents black cherries, raspberry, cocoa powder and coffee bean aromas, followed by nice juicy cherries and raspberries on the palate with pomegranate. Bright acidity frames the light tannins and a touch of caramel in the finish ties this all together for a good quaffer.
Nk'Mip Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, 1,269 cases, 13.9% alc., $20 CDN
Recommended. Here's an expressive and approachable wine that will be a great entry for new red wine drinkers, and one that can be served slightly chilled for a good summertime sipper. Raspberry fruit leather, pie cherry, strawberry jam on toast and cigar box aromas transcend into a drink of raspberry jam and juicy Rainier cherries on a midpalate with subdued tannins and pie cherry tartness in the finish. Enjoy with smoked fish.
Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 6,764 cases, 13.5% alc., $35
Outstanding! This single bottling accounts for nearly 25 percent of the Ponzi production, and it's astounding. There are pie cherries, allspice, strawberries, green peppercorns, forest floor and raspberry aromas. And it's the same stuff in the mouth but dominated by the rich strawberries. It's full-on fruit all the way and it's deliciously jammy from stem to stern.
Ponzi Vineyards 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2,100 cases, 13.8% alc., $60
Outstanding! A product of one of Oregon's quickest and largest vintages, this offers complex aromas black cherries, plums, pepper, tobacco leaf and tar. A velvety mouthful of cherry pie awaits with blueberry acidity and chocolaty tannins. The Ponzis relied on certified sustainable grapes, not only their own but also Gemini, Lazy River and Linda Vista vineyards.
Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Tavola Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 5,104 cases, 13% alc., $25
Excellent. Luisa Ponzi takes particular pride in the fact that 100% of the fruit is certified sustainable. Her entry-level Pinot Noir invites with spicy cherry and toasty oak aromas that lead to more Bing cherries and plums on the balanced palate. A pinch of Italian herb in the finish adds complexity and expands the options for your dining table or The Dundee Bistro.
Primarius 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon, 4,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Outstanding! Seattle-based Precept Brands uses the Latin word for "distinguished" as the name for this project that allows winemaker Hal Landvoigt to meet Oregon fruit in the middle of Washington state. There's little romance in Mattawa, but the consumer should love this at the checkstand and in the glass. It's a nice little drink that's not muscled up with wood, and somewhere between a rosé and the light end of the red wine scale. Plums, pie cherries, a bit of earth, smooth tannins and crisp acidity do most of the talking.
Merlot
Cadaretta Wines 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, 145 cases, 14.9% alc., $35
Excellent. The Middletons, a fifth-generation family in the Washington timber industry, christened their winery in Walla Walla and named it after a schooner that once hauled their logs up and down the West Coast. French vintner Virginie Bourgue, formerly of Bergevin Lane, crafted a big wine featuring chocolate oak tones, coffee and chewy dark blackberries. Suggested pairings include hearty homemade stew.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Ethos Merlot, Columbia Valley, 1,900 cases, 14.3% alc., $38
Excellent. Fruit from the estate Cold Creek and Canoe Ridge vineyards forms the backbone of this reserve-tier wine that's built for cellaring, but it quickly found fans. The new oak (79%) provides accents of bittersweet chocolate and toast that quickly move behind the big and bold blackberry tones and firm tannins. Suggested fare includes lamb chops or other grilled meat.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Indian Wells Merlot, Columbia Valley, 6,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $18
Excellent. Here is one of the Northwest's most reliable and available Merlots, and its fruit-forward style - indicative of the Wahluke Slope-based Indian Wells program - is fleshed out by Syrah (20%). Hints of black cherries, spice, brown sugar, a sliver of chocolate and a slice of black olive are backed by more of the same on a well-balanced structure with blueberries, spice and cassis.
E.B. Foote Winery 2005 Merlot, Wahluke Slope, 465 cases, 14.8% alc., $18
Outstanding! Sherrill Miller's underrated winery in Burien, Wash., works extensively with fruit near Mattawa, and this combines Arianses and Milbrandt fruit from a legendary vintage. The results are duly impressive with aromas of black cherries, allspice, maraschino cherries and cola. Those ingredients deliver between the lips in a weighty and rich fashion with some Redman chewing tobacco in the finish.
Hestia Cellars 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 15.4% alc., $35
Excellent. Shannon Jones tapped into Canoe Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills for a juicy expression. Dark cherries, milk chocolate and Italian herbs - a sign of the Cabernet Franc (20%) - funnel into juicy flavors of more cherries and blackberries, heightened by chewy tannins and finished with hints of molasses and green peppercorns.
Kludt Family Winery 2005 Cougar Ridge Reserve Merlot, Chelan County, 360 cases, 13.8% alc., $42
Recommended. The estate program of Wapato Point Cellars produced a wine filled with black cherries, cassis, pie cherries, cola, red peppercorns and sturdy tannins.
L'Ecole No. 41 2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, 1,406 cases, 14.4% alc., $36
Recommended. The 220-acre partnership with Pepper Bridge Winery and Leonetti Cellar yields a drink of light cherries and strawberries with Douglas fir notes and frontal tannins.
Mannina Cellars 2006 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, 236 cases, 13.9% alc., $24
Excellent. Don Redman taps into some of the valley's finest vineyards, including Pepper Bridge, and a touch of Syrah for this layered release. The nose filters out hints of black cherries, blackberries, vanilla, coffee and a pinch of oregano. There's a strong backbone of fruit on the palate with Chukar Cherries and more blackberries, finished with another rub of oregano.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley, 13.5% alc., $25 CDN
Excellent. The designation means that 85% of the fruit came off estate sites, giving John Simes plenty of control. Aromas of blueberry tea, maraschino cherry and French vanilla spill out on the palate with a nice light cherry entry and bright acidity. The well-managed oak shows itself from the midpalate to the finish in the form of Baker's chocolate.
Northstar 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley, 15,000 cases, 14.7% alc., $41
Outstanding! It can't be easy for David "Merf" Merfeld to referee these barrels from 18 blocks off 14 different vineyards, but he comes out a champion, thanks in part to some Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Petit Verdot (3%). Light cherries, blueberries with the leaf, cola, nutmeg and chocolate are drawn in with a sniff. More blueberries, cherry liqueur and chocolate tones slide around the palate. Tannins frame the structure and even add complexity before yielding to sweet plums in the finish.
Northstar 2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, 2,500 cases, $60
Recommended. The Walla Walla Valley portion of this program is beginning to take off, and this is supremely easy-drinking, as Merlot should be. Red tones ring true throughout with strawberries, black cherries, red peppercorns, leather and even a hint of tutti fruity ice cream.
Northwest Totem Cellars 2005 Chandler Reach Vineyard Merlot, Yakima Valley, 100 cases, 13.6% alc., $30
Excellent. Grape grower Len Parris befriended Woodinville winemaker Mike Sharadin early on, and this wine is a tribute to their relationship. Blackberry, bacon, rose petal and smoky oak aromas sweep into more blackberries and blueberries on the big and jammy palate. Black tea tannins and zippy acidity should do well with a grilled pork loin.
Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery 2006 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, 555 cases, 14.6% alc., $30 CDN
Outstanding! Here's a tale of two wines, with the first half hinting at dusty cherries, blueberries, white strawberry with the leaf and bacon fat aromas. Yet, it's heaped with lovely sweet fruit on the extracted palate, featuring intense round flavors of strawberry jam and cordial cherries. There's some menthol, and it's youthful, even a bit yappy in terms of tannins, but it will take you places. Enjoy with venison or elk accompanied by portabello mushrooms or truffles, joined by pan-roasted potatoes.
RoxyAnn Winery 2006 Merlot, Rogue Valley, 205 cases, 13.5% alc., $24
Outstanding! As you can see, remarkable Merlot continues to be made in Northwest, including Southern Oregon. Gus Janeway continues to cycle through vintages in tasty fashion, and this spins out aromas of black cherries, blueberries, plums, teriyaki, chocolate and toasted paprika. On the attack are sweet and juicy black cherries, blackberry jam on the midpalate with blueberry acidity in the finish. The absence of tannin should serve it well alongside a pan of paella.
Tasawik Vineyards 2005 Estate Merlot, Walla Walla County, 176 cases, 13.8% alc., $24
Excellent. This new winery not far from Ice Harbor Dam on the Snake River uses only estate fruit. Given that these grapes were third leaf bodes well. The wine features tones of black cherries, dried blueberries and a freshly brewed mocha, backed by a juicy structure.
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2005 Oldfield's Collection Merlot, Okanagan Valley, 1,300 cases, 13.5% alc., $28 CDN
Outstanding! Sandy Oldfield's reserve Merlot features a level of sophistication that has become more common with British Columbia reds. Amazingly layered and elegant aromatics include cassis, blueberries, rhubarb, citrus, baked blackberry pie crust, chocolate, menthol, pink peppercorns and chocolate. The drink itself is intense, fruit-forward and jammy up front with black cherries and blackberries. Next is a hint of slate before the big midpalate acidity lifts the fruit again before yielding to sturdy tannins and burnt berry pie crust in the finish. Further rewards will come in three-to-five years.
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2006 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, 7,927 cases, 14.4% alc., $19 CDN
Excellent. The regular-tier Merlot is younger but showing signs of maturing. Black cherry and cooked plum hints include toasted shredded wheat, teriyaki and chalkboard dust. More rich black fruit marmalade awaits, including boysenberry with a crunch of the seed and parsley. Those tannins stand tall at the moment, but cellaring will loosen their grip some. Enjoy with chicken in a cream-puff pastry.
Township 7 Vineyards & Winery 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, 1,200 cases, 13.9% alc., $25 CDN
Outstanding! It's not often you'll see a winery on British Columbia's Naramata Bench release a Merlot with this level of production and such quality. There's a greeting of cherries, sarsaparilla and fresh-ground black pepper. The pour offers raspberries and cranberries with bright acidity, balanced tannins and some cocoa powder in the finish. It's neither too little nor too much, making it a fine food wine from ribs to a ribeye.
Wild Goose Vineyards 2006 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley, 200 cases, 14.6% alc., $20 CDN
Excellent. Our reigning Northwest Winery of the Year flashes its rising skill with dry reds here as alluring aromas of marionberries, French vanilla and Baker's chocolate cascade into a mouthful of cherries, more chocolate and French-press coffee.
Syrah
Cadaretta Wines 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, 2,118 cases, 15% alc., $30
Recommended. Pepper Bridge Vineyard in Walla Walla, Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and Stone Tree on the Wahluke Slope come together in a bold statement of plums, black cherries and oak from this new Walla Walla winery.
Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, 2,00 cases, 14.6% alc., $44
Outstanding! California kid Michael Sebastini continues to impress at our 2007 Oregon Winery of the Year. Fruit from Kortge Vineyard in The Dalles and Reid Vineyard in Rufus spins out cherry, raspberry and French vanilla aromas. It's blackberries, dark plums and allspice on the palate with Italian herbs to add complexity.
Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, 374 cases, 14.5% alc., $38
Excellent. This winery in Hood River, Ore., focuses on nearby Bangsund Vineyard for this expression that spent 20 months in barrel. Enticement from cherry cola, brown sugar, flannel, cedar and Hershey's milk chocolate leads to a dark pour of cherry vanilla Coke followed by more chocolate and blackberry cobbler. Its balance borders on sublime.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Ethos Syrah, Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, 14.5% alc., $28
Outstanding! A 50/50 blend of Wahluke Slope and Cold Creek fruit came together beautifully for Bob Bertheau. Great complexity begins in the nose with dark cherries, pleasing vanilla, leather and a hint of chocolate from the 20 months in barrel. Those dark cherries and chocolate carry through to the palate with a delicious acidic finish. Suggested fare includes grilled salmon or beef accented by Italian herbs.
Columbia Winery 2005 Red Willow Vineyard South Chapel Block Syrah, Yakima Valley, 250 cases, 14.1% alc., $30
Outstanding! David Lake made this vineyard and this variety famous in the Northwest beginning more than 20 years ago, and Kerry Norton - Columbia's new winemaker - shows the power and grace of Mike Sauer's grapes. Breathe in pomegranate, cranberries, black cherries, espresso, cocoa powder and violets. Black cherries take the lead on the tongue as polished and sweet tannins provide the foundation. Then comes this remarkable sensation of an ice cream sundae with chocolate sauce, a chopped almond with a cherry on top.
Coyote Canyon Winery 2005 Estate Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills, 200 cases, 13.9% alc., $25
Recommended. Here's a lighter style of Syrah that leans toward tones of black cherries, chocolate, coffee and herbal tea with an amazing finish of chocolate chip mint ice cream on the palate.
Eleven Winery 2005 Alder Creek Vineyard Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills, 171 cases, 13.9% alc, $24
Outstanding! Matt Albee's operation on Bainbridge Island near Seattle continues to earn accolades. This vineyard-designate greets with aromas of pomegranate, cherry vanilla, acai berry and showy oak. On the palate, it's what you'd expect from a Washington Syrah with its blackberry shake structure with a tug of tannin and a dash of black pepper in the finish.
Hestia Cellars 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, 80 cases, 15.5% alc., $35
Outstanding! Shannon Jones continues to ramp up production at his young winery in Carnation, Wash., and he flashes skill with this fruit from Dineen Vineyard, a cooler site in the Yakima Valley. Plums, pink peppercorns, Baker's chocolate and cedar fill the imagination. The sip is quite hedonistic as more ripe plums, pomegranates and Bing cherries dusted with chocolate burst in the mouth. Coffee and leather in the finish round out the palate that's bright with acidity.
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2006 Grand Reserve Shiraz, Okanagan Valley, 1,000 cases, 14.3% alc., $26 CDN
Outstanding! Brooke Blair took over the red program at JT when Bruce Nicholson returned home to Ontario, and she's running with it. Bull Pine Estate Vineyard, a 240-acre plot on the Osoyoos Lake Bench just north of Oroville, Wash., supplied the heat and hang time for a big purple people eater. Plum, blackberry and blueberry notes reign supremely, along with notes of cracked pepper, teriyaki, sagebrush, a chocolate brownie and a cup of coffee. The fruit, oak and tannins make it sinewy now, then sexy in two to three years.
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2006 SunRock Vineyard Shiraz, Okanagan Valley, 800 cases, 14.2% alc., $35 CDN
Outstanding! It's obvious that young Aussie vintner Brooke Blair knows this variety, and here's another long-winded review. Aromas include blueberry milkshake, slate, juniper, orange marmalade, fresh-brewed mocha, sausage, and black peppercorns. It's a mouth-coating drink, topped with more blueberry flavors, milk chocolate and bacon fat. Sweet brambleberries add acidity, and the tannins are assertive but not over the top. Her suggested pairings list lamb, venison, quail and smoked ribs.
Kludt Family Winery 2005 Cougar Ridge Reserve Syrah, Chelan County, 360 cases, 13.8% alc., $42
Excellent. The high-tier of Wapato Point Cellars relies on estate fruit on the north shore of Lake Chelan to produce aromas of coffee, leather and chocolate. It's followed by flavors of early season Bing cherry with a piece of Aussie black licorice and a big farewell that's slightly sweet, lingering and satisfying.
L'Ecole No. 41 2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, 858 cases, 14.8% alc., $36
Excellent. There's a strong theme of marionberry and boysenberry to this Marty Clubb production, backed in the aromas by saddle leather, allspice and cassis. And the components for a classic wine all line up on the palate with a jammy texture of red brambleberries, restrained oak with more saddle leather, approachable tannins and more berry acidity in the finish.
Lost River Winery 2006 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, 402 cases, 13.8% alc., $22
Excellent. John Morgan grabbed grapes from Stone Valley and Les Collines to produce a wine that might fetch twice the price if it were sold in the Walla Walla Valley rather than the Methow Valley. Boysenberries and blackberries combine with toasted wheat, licorice, bittersweet chocolate, coffee and leather in the nose. The palate runs deep with fresh-picked plums, more berries and chocolaty tannins that turn to bittersweet chocolate in the finish.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2004 Barrel Select Syrah, Yakima Valley, 402 cases, 14.9% alc., $16
Excellent. It's a bit unusual to see this much Viognier (7%) used to co-ferment with Syrah, but the results from Crawford Vineyard are showy. Dark currants, warm oak and chocolate tones are accented by great acidity and a finish of mountain berries.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2004 Reserve Syrah, Yakima Valley, 251 cases, 14.9% alc., $24
Excellent. This often-overlooked winery just a few miles from British Columbia continues to offer value and quality. Ranch at the End of the Road on Red Mountain and Portteus in the Yakima Valley supply the red power, which was co-fermented with Viognier (5%) from Crawford Vineyard. This is packed with cherry cola and chocolate tones with a juicy and tasty structure. The impressive acidity means the tannins will have even more time to loosen up.
OS Winery 2006 Dineen Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley, 90 cases, 14.8% alc., $35
Excellent. Owen and Sullivan continue to raise the profile of this Zillah, Wash., vineyard. Their third vintage from Dineen produced a wine that sits in the glass looking like a Syrah, but it has the grace and food-friendly profile of a Pinot Noir, starting with Bing cherries, vanilla bean, mint and Italian parsley aromatics. In the mouth, you'll find black cherries give way on the midpalate to sweet blueberries, followed by sour cherries and spearmint with balance that highlights the complexities.
Robert Karl Cellars 2006 Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $24
Outstanding! The Gunselmans live in Spokane, but they devote a lot of their energies to the Horse Heaven Hills. Wines such as this from McKinley Springs - which is co-fermented with 5% Viognier - show that it's worth their effort. Blackberry-infused tea, lavender, spearmint and milk chocolate aromas hint at its lighter style. Expressive blackberries and light chocolate dominate the complex flavors, which are carried smoothly by nice acidity and a near-absence of tannin.
RoxyAnn Winery 2006 Estate Syrah, Rogue Valley, 482 cases, 14.5% alc., $30
Excellent. Inside one of the most bucolic tasting rooms in Southern Oregon are these wines made in Medford by Gus Janeway. Here's a youthful style of Syrah with an introduction of Rainier cherries, blueberries, pencil shavings, green tea, Dagoba chocolate and some teriyaki jerky. It's plummy and yummy on the tongue with more juicy cherries and chocolate. Enjoyable acidity gives way to chalky tannins in the farewell.
San Juan Vineyards 2005 Syrah, Yakima Valley, 615 cases, 14.9% alc., $19
Recommended. Aromas of milk chocolate, cherry cough syrup and saddle leather lead into a structure of sugared blackberries and ample acidity make this an easy quaffer to be enjoyed within two years.
Tildio Winery 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, 195 cases, 14.0% alc., $27
Outstanding! Katy Perry shows here why she received our 2008 Washington Winery to Watch award. First comes a big whiff of Bing cherries, mocha, hazelnuts, cola and some leather. The flavors are deep with more ripe Bing cherries and the structure is quite silky with creamy chocolate, yielding a delicious Syrah with gorgeous balance.
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2005 Oldfield's Collection Syrah, Okanagan Valley, 75 cases, 14.1% alc., $35 CDN
Recommended. Dusty marionberries, Graham cracker, smoked jerky and pleasing earth lead the way with this release. Enjoy now with appetizers that feature ham or bacon, but it will improve with a bit of patience.
Woodinville Wine Cellars 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, 225 cases, 14.9% alc., $30
Excellent. Sean Boyd helped establish Woodinville as a wine touring destination with wines such as this, which hails from Chandler Reach, Dineen and Stillwater Creek. A nose of plums and cherries peeks out from the influence of the 50% new French oak program that adds vanilla bean, bittersweet chocolate and Candela leaf tobbaco. Luscious blackberry flavors lead the way, joined by bittersweet chocolate, nice acidity and chalky tannins at the back.
Grenache
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Grenache, Horse Heaven Hills, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $38
Outstanding! Scorching temperatures don't seem to bother the vines on this estate parcel, and there's a remarkable hint of Red Hots cinnamon cherry candy among the aromas of chocolate, vanilla and crushed leaf. It's the same stuff as in the nose on the palate, with some light chocolate and wonderful mouth feel.
Barnard Griffin 2007 Grenache, Columbia Valley, 168 cases, 14.8% alc., $25
Outstanding! Termed as one of a kind, this charming and delicate wine is juicy, balanced and remarkable inviting. Raspberries and Bing cherries dominate the aromas and flavors in a smooth fashion with a delightful midpalate and lingering juicy finish.
Heaven's Cave 2006 Ridgeline Destiny Ridge Vineyard Grenache, Horse Heaven Hills, 50 cases, 14.4% alc., $30
Excellent. Prosser's Jarrod Boyle grew the grapes and Ray McKee started making the wine, but Boyle has taken over for McKee at this winery, which donates its proceeds to the Make The Dash Count Foundation. The nose features blueberries, cherries, cedar, eucalyptus and white pepper. Pie cherries and raspberries take over on the well-balanced palate that's capped by plums and tart pie cherries.
Northwest Totem Cellars 2006 Grenache, Yakima Valley, 30 cases, 14.4% alc., $30
Excellent. Here marks the first effort with this grape for this Woodinville, Wash., and it's full of purple tones, starting with aromas of plums, blueberries, lilac, cloves, anise and vanilla bean. More purple fruit is in store on the youthful, almost nouveau, delivery, backed by black cherries, balanced tannins and a crack of black pepper.
Three Rivers Winery 2007 Grenache, Wahluke Slope, 140 cases, 14.2% alc., $29
Excellent. The Milbrandt brothers grew the Grenache at Clifton Vineyard and the Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) at Katherine Leone, and Holly Turner took it from there. She's a beauty from the first glance with the bright garnet color. The aromas are alluring with hints of blackberry, blueberry, cherry vanilla, chocolate and peppercorns, and the attraction smacks you in the lips with more blackberries and boysenberries. There a playful slap from drying tannins, then a lift of citrus acidity and a cherry kiss goodbye.
Other reds
Dry Falls Cellars 2007 Barbera, Wahluke Slope, 55 cases, 14% alc., $25
Outstanding! Jim Englar leads this family-focused winery near the abandoned Japan Air Lines hangar in Moses Lake, and he works in small lots with distinctive results. Here's a collaboration with Rosebud Ranch for a lively version of an Italian variety that profiles bright red fruit. Aromas of strawberries, sweet cherries and slate funnel into a juicy and complex structure dominated by pie cherries with the acidity to match. Red currants and green peppercorns fill in the edges of a wine that screams for a stuffed meatball pizza.
Dry Falls Cellars 2007 Cinsault, Wahluke Slope, 20 cases, 13.8% alc., $28
Outstanding! With this small of production - less than one barrel - it got a lot of attention, and it shows. The dark garnet color draws your eye, and the oak borders on distracting, yet it's easy to sniff out sweet cherries, raspberries and cranberries with a nice crushed leaf component and cinnamon. It's a lighter style with a broad structure and bold flavors of cranberries, rhubarb, cherries and ripe plums. Earthiness and acidity show on the palate rather than oak and tannin. Enjoy with gourmet mac and cheese.
Wedge Mountain Winery 2007 Lemberger, Columbia Valley, 61 cases, 12.7% alc., $26
Excellent. HRP Vineyards in Prosser, Wash., produced the fruit for Charlie McKee's smooth offering. Inviting vanilla and allspice aromas swirl around Rainier cherries. The drink centers on more cherries and marionberries with food-friendly acidity that links to a finish of bittersweet chocolate.
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Block 20 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, 205 cases, 13.9% alc., $30
Outstanding! Want to know the taste of hedonism? Jarrod Boyle shows you with a drink of this well-made estate release. Penetrating black fruit and dark oak tones embrace the senses, including a wrap of leather and chocolate in the aromas. In the mouth are monstrous amounts of black cherries, almonds, mocha and espresso, yet there's nice acidity and managed tannins for balance. Too much of a good thing? Take two glasses and call us in the morning.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2005 Proprietor's Limited Release Malbec, Yakima Valley, 427 cases, 13.4% alc., $20
Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Randy Finley remains committed to Lonesome Springs, Crawford and Ranch at the End of the Road. The sites allowed him to make one of the Northwest's least-expensive and most approachable wines from this Bordeaux variety, blended with Merlot (6%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), Petit Verdot (5%) and Syrah. Inviting spice, moist earth and leather aromas are enhanced by delicate raspberry flavors and a complex yet sublime structure with balance and a touch of sweetness.
Tildio Winery 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley, 124 cases, 13.9% alc., $28
Excellent. Bottled as Malbec from Stillwater Creek Vineyard near Royal City, Wash., it includes a good dose of Cabernet Sauvignon (20%). Bing cherries and toasted oak notes come together smoothly and with balance.
H/H Estates 2004 Reserve Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, 267 cases, 14.7% alc., $28
Recommended. This reserve label of Coyote Canyon Winery in Prosser showcases barrel tones of cloves and teriyaki, but there's also a rush of raspberry and strawberry jam flavors that create a nice finish and inspiring thoughts of pairing it with roasted pork loin served with a cherry compote.
Inniskillin Okanagan 2006 Discovery Series Sangiovese, Okanagan Valley, 94 cases, 13.5% alc., $30 CDN
Outstanding! Sandor Mayer's team claims this is his first vintage of Sangiovese in the Okanagan. It seems almost too good to be true. You are greeted by a deep magenta color, then hints of plums, cassis, blueberries, a barista's mocha and Doc Constantine's Bruised Violet oil. More black fruit and plum jam run through the chewy, but not overpowering, tannins.
Mannina Cellars 2006 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, 232 cases, 13.6% alc., $22
Excellent. Clusters from Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and Birch Creek make for an inviting bouquet of cherries and blueberries wrapped in sweet oak. It's mighty juicy, mouth filling and nicely balanced on the palate with those cherries and berries, chased by deep rich chocolate in the finish.
Northwest Totem Cellars 2005 Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, 37 cases, 14.3% alc., $30
Excellent. Mike Sharadin in Woodinville, Wash., adroitly incorporates Syrah (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), achieving perfumy aromas of cranberries, raspberries, green tea and showy oak. The smooth and expressive palate centers on raspberries, cassis and loganberry with pleasing and ripe tannins.
Dry Falls Cellars 2005 Reserve Tempranillo, Horse Heaven Hills, 100 cases, 14.2% alc., $22
Recommended. It's rare to find this Spanish variety made in the U.S., and here's a good introduction that spent 24 months in barrel. Notes of blueberry and huckleberries are joined by rich earth, tobacco, black olive, green peppercorn, celery leaf and Worcestershire sauce in a structure that accents acidity over tannin in a food-friendly fashion. Suggested fare includes Latin-influenced dishes and strongly flavored meats.
RoxyAnn Winery 2005 Tempranillo, Rogue Valley, 126 cases, 14.5% alc., $30
Recommended. More folks in Southern Oregon are jumping aboard Abacela's Temp train, and this Medford, Ore., winery shows its commitment with estate fruit. Rainier cherries, chocolate, plums, lavender and violet notes tumble into chalky tannins that will match well with a slab of meaty lasagna.
Snake River Winery 2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Zweigelt, Idaho, 120 cases, 12.5% alc., $16
Excellent. An Austrian crossed Lemberger with the variety knowns as Saint Laurent and came up with this immensely food-friendly wine. Scott DeSeelhorst has grown this variety in his remarkable vineyard for several years. It starts with big blackberries, Rainier cherries, chalkboard dust, cherry tomato and a squirt of citrus. A pleasing cherry entry is followed by chocolate and leather nuances. It's not overpowered by oak, and the blueberry acidity makes it sturdy for beef or buffalo.
Red blends
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Member's Only Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, 75 cases, 14.6% alc., $45
Recommended. This blend of Rhône varieties - Grenache (49%), Mourvèdre (33%), Syrah (13%) and Roussanne - shows some charm, starting with its base of cherries and backing from hints of chocolate, horehound and herbal tea.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2003 Dionysus, Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 13.8% alc., $45
Excellent. Few wines in the Northwest spend 36 months in French oak, but Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels shows the patience and dedication in this tribute to Dionysus Vineyard along the Columbia River. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (20%), Cab Franc (15%) and Malbec also taps into Conner Lee, Bacchus and Stillwater Creek to produce massive amounts of chocolate-covered cherries, blackberries and cassis that finish in a rich manner.
Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2006 Calico Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 3,500 cases, 14.2% alc.
Excellent. Nearly half of Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane's production in Walla Walla goes into this wine, and Steffen Jorgesen delivers the goods by blending Merlot (36%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Syrah (25%), Zinfandel (7%) and Cab Franc from eight vineyards and three appellations. It's brimming with hints of Bing cherries, crushed herbs, chocolate, stewed plums in a mouth-coating fashion.
Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Rock Star Red, Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 14.4% alc., $44
Recommended. An even split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, it's zesty yet smooth with black cherries and acai berries, lime peel and sun-dried tomatoes. It's built for the long haul but will best be enjoyed in the meantime at the dinner table with tomato-based Italian dishes.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Artist Series Meritage Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 1,400 cases, 14.3% alc., $48
Excellent. British Columbia painter Bobbie Burgers is the featured artist for the 13th edition of this release, which marks the first time that Merlot (57%) leads this picturesque melange of Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Petit Verdot (5%) and Malbec. Dark brambleberries, espresso, vanilla bean and chocolate frame the aromatics, and the vibrant canvas is filled with juicy boysenberries and blueberries with bittersweet chocolate and slightly drying tannins.
Coyote Canyon Winery 2006 Coyote Canyon Vineyards Tres Cruces Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, 224 cases, 14.6% alc., $18
Outstanding! It translates to "Three Crosses," and Mike Andrews blended three Rhône varieties - Syrah (60%), Grenache (30%) and Mourvèdre. It drinks more like a Bordeaux laced with high-toned red fruit. Very inviting aromas of cranberries, Rainier cherries and cocoa powder speak to more of the same on the palate. Indeed, there's a wonderful cherry character with hints of blueberry, nice acidity, little in the way of tannin or oak, and a bit of herbal note for wide food applications.
Dunham & Froese Estate Winery 2006 Amicitia Red Wine, Okanagan Valley, 97 cases, 14.0% alc., $28 CDN
Excellent. It means "friendship" in Latin, and the wine could legally be called Merlot (86%), but the Syrah (14%) gives it a nice nudge. Blueberry, dried cherries, rose hips, alfalfa, saddle leather in spearmint aromatics pour into more blueberries on the tongue. From the midpalate on back, it's more along dried cherries and dried plums along the European fashion. Suggested fare includes pork or an oily fish, or try grilled meats plated with a cherry balsamic reduction sauce.
E.B. Foote Winery NV Etc. Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 432 cases, 14.5% alc., $18
Excellent. Sherrill Miller markets most of her bottles at this price, gets much of her fruit from Graves and the Milbrandt brothers, and the wines are consistently good. This forges ahead with Zinfandel (63%), followed by Syrah (11%), Merlot (11%), Cabernet Sauvignon (9%) and Cab Franc. It broadcasts blackberry preserves, blueberry jam, black walnuts, black pepper and tea, with more of the same fruit on the brightly structured and piquant palate. It's finished with pleasing oak and plums with a hint of eucalyptus.
E.B. Foote Winery 2006 Northwest Duet, Columbia Valley, 337 cases, 13.8% alc., $18
Outstanding! A 54/46 split of Cabernet Sauvignon from Graves and Milbrandt vineyards, respectively, offers robust aromas of plums, Dr Pepper, lilacs and chalkboard dust. It's an elegant drink with more plums and cola, backed by cinnamon and high-toned cherries on the rich midpalate and chased with dusty tannins.
E.B. Foote Winery NV Rainy Red V, Columbia Valley, 266 cases, 13.3% alc., $18
Excellent. For this edition, Sherrill Miller leads with 2007 Syrah (86%) from Milbrandt and back-blends with 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon from Graves. Think of a Hostess cherry pie when sniffing, then strawberries and raspberries when tasting. Good acidity, low alcohol and exciting tannins provide excellent coverage.
Eleven Winery 2006 La Ronde Red Wine, Washington, 111 cases, 13.5% alc., $27
Outstanding! Matt Albee hits on a blend that's off the beaten path, but he takes Malbec (40%), Syrah (40%) and Petit Verdot down a road for sightseers. Keep your mind open for signs of boysenberries, plums, lavender, blood orange, chocolate and tobacco lead. Pull in for a rich drink of more boysenberries, marionberries and black cherries. On the shoulder are tamed tannins and then a lengthy driveway of chocolate-covered orange peel.
Fairview Cellars 2007 Two Hoots Red Wine, Okanagan Valley, 450 cases, 14.4% alc., $25 CDN
Excellent. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (25%) and Cab Franc, Bill Eggert names this for the great horned owls who return to his vineyard each year. Black cherries, cassis, blueberries and a Hershey's Kiss waft about. Inside, it's a fledgling fruit bomb with cooked black cherries on the luscious entry, nice leafiness and firm tannins on the midpalate and late food-friendly acidity from blueberries. Enjoy it with steaks or burgers.
Hestia Cellars 2005 Meritage, Columbia Valley, 100 cases, 14.6% alc., $40
Excellent. The commitment to quality is obvious with this rising winery in Carnation, Wash., targeting Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills for the entire blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Cab Franc (30%) and Malbec. It's a beguiling nose of blueberries, a handful of brambleberries with a leaf, talus and a cherry Dot. Cranberries and Rainier cherries join the berries and the Dots on the nicely knit structure where racy acidity and chalky tannins will fare well with braised ribs.
Hightower Cellars 2006 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, 196 cases, 14.2% alc., $28
Recommended. This Red Mountain winery pushes forward with Merlot (88%) then Cabernet Sauvignon for results that feature Bing cherries, unripe blackberries, fresh-brewed mocha, drying tannins and a finish of bittersweet chocolate.
Holmes Harbor Cellars 2006 Teragré Red Etude, Washington, 56 cases, 13.9% alc., $28
Excellent. Greg Martinez set up his new winery on Whidbey Island, and this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir shows aromas of pie cherries, dark brown toast and some vanilla. The drink is big on Bing cherries with chocolate cake on the midpalate and a hint of soy sauce in the fine finish.
Jacksonville Vineyards 2005 Claret, Applegate Valley, 200 cases, 14.5% alc., $23
Recommended. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (36%), Cab Franc (10%) and Malbec, this Southern Oregon release will appeal to those who gravitate to the richness of oak, black cherries and enjoy a good blackberry malt. There's also an enjoyable feel of wooly tannins in the midpalate.
Kyra Wines 2006 PSV Red Wine, Wahluke Slope, 330 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Outstanding! It stands for Purple Sage Vineyard, which is the young estate vineyard for Kyra Baerlocher, who first put Moses Lake on the Washington state wine map. She leads with Merlot (80%), followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) and Sangiovese (6%), and the brightness from that Italian variety seems to shine through. Cherries, strawberries, tarragon and mint awaken the senses. Red tones carry onto the tongue and all the way through with cola in the midpalate and not much oak at any point for this well-made wine.
Lost River Winery 2006 Cedarosa Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 299 cases, 14.5% alc., $26
Excellent. Blackberry aromas with coffee, fresh-cut alder and juniper are easily found in this blend of Merlot (55%) and Cabernet Franc. The real payoff comes in the very delicious entry of Bing cherries and blackberries. It's an opulent drink with subdued acidity and tannin.
Mannina Cellars 2006 Cali Red Table Wine, Walla Walla Valley, 716 cases, 13.5% alc., $17
Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Don Redman named this after his grandmother and doubled production over the previous vintage. That was a great idea because there are several layers to this mix of Cab Sauv (55%), Merlot (42%) and Syrah. Black currant jam, bacon, toasted oak, black pepper, crushed leaf and asparagus off the grill fill the nostrils. It's rich, jammy and delicious all the way with more currants and loganberries. The tannin structure is nicely toned with lots of acidity and a smooth and supple finish.
Martinez & Martinez Winery 2005 Cesár Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, 104 cases, 14.8% alc., $28
Excellent. Nearly 30 years ago, Sergio Martinez helped plant vines in Phinny Hill. Now, he's making wine in Prosser, Wash. This blend from Alder Ridge is named for his grandson and leads with Cabernet Sauvignon (82%), Merlot (11%), Lemberger (6%) and Syrah. Hints of cherry and plum easily come through the toasted oak aromas. It's smooth, juicy and tasty with more plums, blackberries and cassis.
Nicholas Cole Cellars 2005 Camille, Columbia Valley, 764 cases, 14.6% alc., $45
Excellent. Wines from this vintage should be cherished, and the broad shoulders of this oak-embossed blend of Merlot (45%) Cabernet Franc (28), Cabernet Sauvignon (26%) and Petit Verdot can bear the wait. Black cherries, chocolate, pencil shavings and maple nut ice cream set the mouth watering. Inside it's a slice of black cherry pie a la mode, backed by hefty tannins and a delicious chocolate finish.
Nk'Mip Cellars 2006 Qwam Qwmt Meritage, Okanagan Valley, 1,822 cases, 14.5% alc., $33 CDN
Recommended. A blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Cab Franc offers up a big load of blackberries, blueberries, black cherries and chocolate malt, and there's a strong and long embrace from French (80%) and American oak with pronounced tannins. Enjoy this with a juicy porterhouse or a slice of rare prime rib.
Northwest Totem Cellars 2006 Qo-ne Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 80 cases, 13.9% alc., $30
Outstanding! Mike Sharadin first grabbed our attention for the glass cork. Now, it's for what's below the stopper. This big blend of Cabernet Franc (65%), Cabernet Sauvignon (25%), Syrah (9%) and Petit Verdot shakes you with blueberry, black cherries, cedar, leather and nicely integrated oak. Juicy black cherries find solid balance, and the sendoff is carried by leather, tar and plums.
OS Winery 2006 Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 853 cases, 14.5% alc., $17
Excellent. Bill Owen works magic near Boeing Field to blend Merlot (36%), Cabernet Sauvignon (32%), Cabernet Franc (29%) and Petit Verdot for a wine rich with high-toned red fruit, cherry cola, white strawberries and oregano aromas. Dr Pepper and pie cherry flavors showcase the bright acidity and smooth tannins.
Patit Creek Cellars 2006 Trinité Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, 14.0% alc., $25
Outstanding! This winery moved from Dayton to Walla Walla last year and the winemaker drove to Den Hoed Vineyards in Prosser for this Rhône-style blend of Syrah (44%), Grenache (31%) and Mourvèdre (25%). French vanilla, earth, bacon aromas lead to a lip-smacking combination of dark cherries, white chocolate, pepper and bold tannins. The owners suggest pairing this with intense cheese or braised meat. Both can be had back in Dayton at Monteillet Fromagery and Patit Creek Restaurant, respectively.
Pondera Winery 2005 Melvado Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 15.3% alc., $23
Excellent. Shane Howard's entry-level Bordeaux blend of Merlot (48%), Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) and Cab Franc features a nose of plums, black cherries, horehound, mocha and licorice. Bright plums flavors spin out in a single note, but it's nice note.
Pondera Winery 2006 Salon Series Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 100 cases, 14.5% alc., $28
Outstanding! From Kirkland, Wash., comes a young boutique operation committed to red blends. In fact, he could legally label this as Syrah (75%), and it's backed by Merlot (12%), Sangiovese (7%) and Cabernet Franc. Welcome the mouthful of crushed raspberries along with Assam black team and plums in a juicy fashion, capped by drizzle of milk chocolate.
Pondera Winery 2005 Sericus Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 14.85% alc., $30
Outstanding! It means "silk," in Latin, and there's no argument here. Aromas emitted by the blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Cabernet Franc are reminiscent of blueberries, Stretch Island Fruit Co. Harvest Grape fruit leather, juniper and gun metal. Then it's a shotgun blast of rich blackberries, blueberry taffy and some coffee, with lovely tannins and bright acidity.
Quinta Ferreria Estate Winery 2006 Obra-Prima Red Wine, Okanagan Valley, 433 cases, 14.2% alc., $35 CDN
Recommended. A melange of Cabernet Sauvignon (48%), Merlot (42%) and Malbec shows deep extraction featuring a concentration of blackberries, black walnuts, chocolate covered cherries and a scrape of vanilla bean. Pleasing sweetness combined with its youthful structure suggests decanting, and you'll drink it down quickly.
RoxyAnn Winery 2006 Claret, Rogue Valley, 1,993 cases, 14.2% alc., $26
Excellent. This estate blend of Merlot (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Cab Franc disperses aromas and flavors of raspberries, cranberries, cocoa powder and crushed leaf for a medium-bodied drink that includes bright acidity and robust tannins.
RoxyAnn Winery 2006 Sky Hill Red Wine, Rogue Valley, 74 cases, 14.3% alc., $35
Excellent. Subtle use of neutral oak allows the estate fruit to shine in Gus Janeway's blend of three Rhône varieties - Syrah (65%), Grenache (30%) and Viognier. Hand-picked strawberries, juicy cherries, pomegranate, blackcap raspberries, cocoa powder and brown sugar sing in a well-made but not overdone fashion.
See Ya Later Ranch 2006 Ping, Okanagan Valley, 3,400 cases, 14.5% alc., $30 CDN
Outstanding! One of the Okanagan Valley's more fanciful labels and striking packages under screwcap is this marriage officiated by Dave Carson of Merlot (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) and Cabernet Franc. Aromas are those of Cherry Garcia ice cream, blueberry fruit leather and minerality. Lush cherries and blueberries bounce across the palate with a fair amount of sweetness and acidity before chocolaty tannins hop on for the ride across a finish of forest floor. The structure and balance should keep this afloat for three to five years.
Snake River Winery 2003 Reserve Red Wine, Idaho, 13.9% alc., 230 cases, $26
Excellent. Scott DeSeelhorst's blend of Bordeaux varieties features Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Merlot (15%), Malbec (11%) and Cabernet Franc. High-toned red fruit aromas are joined by green peppercorns, oregano and mincemeat. Raspberries continue the theme on the palate with medium-ripe blackberries, coffee bean tannins and a big chocolate finish.
Soos Creek Wine Cellars 2006 Artist Series Red, Columbia Valley, 325 cases, 14.1% alc., $32
Excellent. The sixth edition of David Larsen's blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%) and Cabernet Franc comes from Champoux, Ciel du Cheval, Winebau and Dineen vineyards and begins with inviting fruit and oak aromas. The devotion to Cab Franc shows with the lighter structure, which offers blackberry, blueberry and red currant flavors with easy tannins and a bit of chocolate at the end.
Tasawik Vineyards 2005 Estate Reserve Red, Walla Walla County, 96 cases, 13.7% alc., $34
Outstanding! Erik Dahle and Sara Broejte grow their estate grapes near the Snake River but set up shop at The Winemaker's Loft in Prosser. This marks their first commercial vintage and they credit Cecil Zerba and Mike Haddox for helping with this blend of Merlot (49%), Cabernet Sauvignon (49%) and Cab Franc. Bing cherries, French-press coffee and cracked allspice aromas turn into more cherries and cola flavors. A super barrel program creates a creamy fudge midpalate with some coffee and leather notes, and zippy acidity brightens it all up.
Tildio Winery 2006 El Buho Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 173 cases, 14.4% alc., $25
Excellent. This wife/husband team in Chelan, Wash., uses the Spanish word for owl to honor the great horned owls on their estate for this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah. The Rhône grape shows itself in the nose of blackberries, backed by huckleberries, nutmeg and toasted oak. On the palate, the Cab and Merlot take over in bold fashion with black cherries, showing nice tannin grip and acidity with lots of chocolate in the finish.
Wapato Point Cellars 2005 Red Delicious Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 936 cases, 13.4 alc.%, $26
Excellent. A tribute to the family's background in the orchards, this blend of Syrah (69%), Sangiovese (26%) and Merlot comes off Home, Kestrel and the estate Cougar Ridge vineyards. Notes of plums, NyQuil, chalkboard dust, bay rum spice and bell pepper run inside and out of this juicy quaffer.
Woodinville Wine Cellars 2005 Ausonius, Washington, 200 cases, 14.3% alc., $35
Recommended. An assemblage of Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), Cabernet Franc (45%) and Malbec shows itself as dark currants, blueberries, stewed cherries and a nice herbal note. It's a big bold-drinking wine with rich tannins.
Woodinville Wine Cellars 2006 Little Bear Creek Red Wine, Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
Excellent. This second label is on the fanciful side, but the vineyards behind the wine are serious players - Chandler Reach, Dineen, Meek and Stillwater Creek. Rainier cherries make for bright aromas with boysenberries and chocolate. It's a pretty rich drink with more cherries, nice tannins and a piece of Aussie black licorice in the finish.
Port-style
Samson Estate Oro Hazelnut Port-style Dessert Wine, Washington, 18% alc., $11
Recommended. In Italian, it means "gold," and in Oregon they refer to the nuts as filberts, but these hazelnut come from an orchard near this Lynden, Wash., winery. Indeed, it's as if you have coffee in your wine glass. There also are hints of a vanilla ice cream sandwich and the yellow cake in a Boston cream pie. Suggested applications range from eggnog to coffee or drizzled over vanilla ice cream.
Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Black Brandt, Okanagan Valley, 150 cases, 17.8% alc., $20 CDN
Outstanding! Hagen Kruger annually masters this production made from Maréchal Foch. It's an easy Port-like wine to like because it doesn't overpower, yet it remains intriguing and satisfying. There's a sense of black currants, Concord grapes, cigar tobacco, vanilla bean and cough syrup. It is tasty right down to its jammy sweet finish.
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