Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grab a lot of the headlines with red wine lovers, while four other Bordeaux varieties often act as little more than backup singers to these two stars.
In recent years, however, these four hidden Bordeaux gems have begun to live in the spotlight with winemakers willing to experiment. These gems are Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère.
For this tasting, we asked Northwest winemakers to submit their versions of these varieties. We received an astonishing 88 wines: 45 Cab Francs, 27 Malbecs, 13 Petit Verdots and three Carménères. All four regions of the Pacific Northwest were represented - and all four had at least one wine amid those receiving our top "Outstanding" rating.
As you will see in the results of our judging, three wineries work extremely well with these grapes:
- Seven Hills Winery in Walla Walla, Wash., earned an "Outstanding" rating for each of its three entries: Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère.
- Barnard Griffin in Richland, Wash., not only had the top wine of the competition, a Malbec, but it also earned an "Outstanding" for its Petit Verdot.
- Northstar in Walla Walla, best known for its Merlot, received top ratings for its Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.
Wine lovers looking to acquire any of these wines should begin with the wineries or their favorite wine merchants, as most of these bottlings are made in minuscule amounts. Simply put, these gems have nothing more than niche commercial appeal and, thus, little distribution beyond tasting rooms. Our hats go off to any restaurants carrying selections of these wines.
Our judging panel included Jessica Munnell, a Washington winemaker formerly with Chateau Ste. Michelle; Kendall Mix, winemaker for Washington Vintners in Walla Walla; Bob Woehler, longtime Northwest wine writer and Wine Press Northwest's tasting editor; Coke Roth, an international wine judge and Red Mountain grape grower; and Paul Sinclair, a longtime member of the Wine Press Northwest tasting panel.
Here are the results:
Outstanding
Barnard Griffin 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $35
Our 2006 Northwest Winery of the Year continues to prove its superiority with a variety of grapes. Rob Griffin's Malbec is a classic, as one judge described it as capturing the best of the Argentinian style. It reveals aromas of minerals, red cherries and coffee, followed by flavors of bright red fruit balanced with supple tannins and bright acidity. It should pair well with aged beef or souvlaki. (235 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Tamarack Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $28
Owner/winemaker Ron Coleman has been impressing us with his suave and powerful red wines since his inaugural vintage in 1997. This Cab Franc is complex and classy, thanks to aromas of black cherries, blackberries and shoe leather with a hint of smokiness. On the palate are full flavors of black fruit, a rich entry and midpalate and sweet oak on the finish. (554 cases, 14.1% alc.)
William Church Winery 2006 Connie's Vintage Malbec, Wahluke Slope, $30
In just its second vintage, this Woodinville, Wash., winery has served up a stunning red. Rod and Leslie Balsley used grapes from Wahluke Slope Vineyard, then aged this Malbec in French oak for 14 months. It is a complex wine with aromas of black cherries, spices and eucalyptus, followed by flavors of blackberries, coffee, caramel and sweet oak, giving way to a rich, deep finish. (83 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Barrister Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $24
Cab Francs from this Spokane winery are as good as money in the bank, as this boutique producer operated by two attorneys has earned one top award after another. This vintage is another great one. It opens with aromas of spices, coffee, sweet herbs and blueberries, followed by round, rich flavors of blackberries, herbs and vanilla creaminess. Its balanced tannins are big and sweet. (947 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Northstar Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley, $40
Best known for its Merlot, this Walla Walla winery also produces small amounts of other varieties, including this luscious Cab Franc. Winemaker David "Merf" Merfeld has crafted a wine with aromas of black cherries and leather, followed by deep flavors of blackberries, chocolate and spices. Its velvety tannins are seamless and elegant through the impressive finish. (112 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Seven Hills Winery 2006 McClellan Estate Vineyard Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley, $32
Casey and Vicky McClellan founded this winery in 1988, making it one of the Walla Walla Valley's oldest producers. This Petit Verdot from estate fruit is a powerful yet suave wine with aromas of black pepper and blackberries, followed by sweet, bursting flavors of black fruit backed with round tannins and ample acidity. Pair with grilled meats. (70 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Pend d'Oreille Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc, Washington, $22
We've come to expect nothing short of greatness from Stephen Meyer and his Idaho Panhandle winery. This Cab Franc uses grapes from Weinbau Vineyard on Washington's Wahluke Slope, and it's a beauty. It reveals aromas and flavors of dark berries with underlying spices. It's an elegant wine with modest tannins and youthfully approachable fruit. (199 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2006 Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley, $35
This limited-production wine is available primarily through Barnard Griffin's Richland, Wash., tasting room. It is a big wine, yet its ample tannins are somewhat restrained and well balanced. This flavorful red opens with aromas of big, juicy berries, a hint of mint and notes of vanilla, followed by flavors of black cherries and plums with a sensual mouth feel. (192 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2005 Winemaker Select Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley, $40
Winemaker Flint Nelson crafted a gorgeous Cab Franc from Olsen Vineyard near Benton City, Wash. It's an elegant wine with aromas of leather, sweet oak, black cherries and a hint of spice, followed by sexy flavors of blackberries and leather. Delicate tannins give this youthful approachability. Pair with roasted pork loin with garlic and rosemary (get the recipe from kestrelwines.com). (200 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Seven Hills Winery 2006 Carmenere, Walla Walla Valley, $28
Owner/winemaker Casey McClellan crafted the top Carmenere of our competition. This extremely rare grape seems to have found a home in the Walla Walla Valley, and the grapes for this wine came from Minnick Hills and Morrison vineyards. It's also McClellan's first release of this variety. It opens with aromas of Rainier cherries and modest oak, followed by rich, complex, multi-dimensional flavors of bright cherries. (100 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $33 CDN
This winery just north of the U.S. border is perhaps best known for its Cabernet Franc, so it's no surprise that it showed so well in our judging. This red flashes inviting aromas of milk chocolate, cherries, raspberries and black olives, followed by delightful, fruit-driven flavors of blueberries, raspberries and black tea. (1,598 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Wapato Point Cellars 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $26
This winery along the north shore of Lake Chelan has crafted a Malbec using grapes from Verhey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. This opens with aromas of minerals, chocolate, dark berries and spices, followed by smooth flavors of black fruit, moist earth and dark chocolate. It was aged 18 months in Hungarian oak, which adds underlying spicinessness. (198 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Northstar Winery 2006 Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley, $40
This top-end Walla Walla winery crafted this rare Petit Verdot using fruit from StoneTree Vineyard on Washington's Wahluke Slope, then aged it in 100% French oak. The result is a suave wine with aromas of black fruit, licorice, tar and tobacco, followed by smooth flavors of ripe plums, blackberries and sweet oak. (112 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Zerba Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $30
This winery near Milton-Freewater, Ore., blended 77% Cab Franc with Cabernet Sauvignon to craft a wine that reveals strength and elegance. It opens with aromas of berries, hints of sweet herbs, cinnamon and cherries, followed by long, persistent flavors of black fruit. Broad tannins meld with the ample fruit from the midpalate through the lengthy finish. (309 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $32
This Walla Walla winery has a well-earned reputation for great wines and a great sense of humor. You will have fun drinking this Cab Franc, which is beautifully made and reveals aromas of Rainier cherries and a faint juniper character, followed by classy flavors of black cherries. It's a tremendous food wine, and we'd suggest pairing it with pork topped with a fruit compote or even barbecued salmon. (125 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Seven Hills Winery 2006 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, $28
Winemaker Casey McClellan hit the trifecta with this wine, the third to earn our top rating. This Malbec uses grapes from three Walla Walla Valley vineyards: Windrow, Minnick and McClellan. It was then aged 18 months in Hungarian oak. It reveals aromas of plums, raspberries and minerals, followed by long, delicious flavors of blueberries and raspberries. Beautiful acidity and modest tannins provide balance and elegance. (480 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Sineann 2007 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills, $48
The youngest wine in our competition also was one of the best. And greatness is something of a habit for this Newberg, Ore., winery. Owner/winemaker Peter Rosback brought in grapes from what is arguably Washington's finest vineyard and has crafted a blockbuster wine. It opens with aromas of blueberries, Bing cherries and raspberries, along with a whisper of white chocolate. On the palate are mouth-coating flavors of big, juicy raspberries, bittersweet chocolate and underlying hints of sweet herbs. (70 cases, 15.1% alc.)
Excellent
Alder Ridge 2006 Estate Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $40
This label for Corus Estates & Vineyards in Seattle uses grapes from its estate Alder Ridge Vineyard, a beautiful and highly touted operation overlooking the Columbia River. This is a stunning wine with rich aromas of blackberries and plums and deep, inviting flavors of bold fruit, black tea, anise and spices. Assertive tannins can be tamed with a couple of years in the cellar or pairing it with grilled meats. (100 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Fidelitas Wines 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $35
Spend much more than a few minutes in a vineyard with winemaker Charlie Hoppes and it is likely he will start talking about his love for Malbec. That intense interest in this grape shows here in the bottle, as this Red Mountain producer has crafted a red with complexity and intensity. It opens with aromas of floral notes, spices, black cherries and vanilla, followed by velvety flavors of dark fruit and bittersweet chocolate. The tannins are perfectly balanced and provide little more than background music for this wine's sweet melodies. (245 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Saviah Cellars 2006 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, $30
Owner/winemaker Richard Funk stands out in the crowded Walla Walla Valley wine scene by consistently producing red wines of great distinction. This Malbec from McClellan Vineyard offers up a complex mixture of aromas and flavors, including chocolate, jammy blackberry fruit and a whisper of smoke and spices from 100% French oak aging. We suggest pairing this with Cornish game hens or roasted duck. (170 cases, 14.1% alc.)
OS Winery 2006 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills, $30
This Seattle winery blended Cabernet Franc (75%) with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from one of Washington's finest vineyards to produce a delicious red wine of great character. This opens with aromas of herbal tea and Bing cherries, followed by flavors of blueberries, black tea and Baker's chocolate. (377 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, $32
The guys who run this Walla Walla winery are fun-loving, but their wines are seriously good. This Malbec from Walla Walla Valley fruit opens with inviting aromas of cherries, minerally earth and dark chocolate, followed by integrated flavors of blackberries, cherries, chocolate and forest floor. Pair with aged beef or chicken in a mole sauce. (100 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Townshend Cellar 2005 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $25
Don Townshend caught our attention a half-decade ago when his 1998 Cab topped one of our competitions. This Spokane winemaker continues to craft a variety of superb wines, and this Malbec adds to that list. It opens with luscious aromas of marionberries, chocolate and caramel, followed by rich flavors of bold, dark fruit and dark chocolate. (85 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Del Rio Vineyards 2006 Malbec, Rogue Valley, $28
One of the most celebrated vineyards in Oregon, this operation in Gold Hill began its own label just a few years ago. This Malbec from estate fruit provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, plums and hints of dark chocolate. It's a fairly soft wine on the entry but picks up steam on the midpalate and finish, thanks to ample acidity. It should pair beautifully with lamb chops or beef. (140 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Pend d'Oreille Winery 2006 Freepons Vineyard Malbec, Washington, $28
Idaho winemaker Stephen Meyer uses grapes from a Prosser, Wash., vineyard to produce this complex Malbec. It opens with aromas of blackberries, tobacco leaf and black pepper, followed by flavors of dark fruit, minerals and sweet oak. It's a nicely balanced wine throughout. (50 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Heaven's Cave Winery 2006 Destiny Ridge Estate Vineyard Amethyst Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $25
Hope Moore launched Heaven's Cave with the intention of providing funds to her Make the Dash Count, a foundation for helping youth. The grapes for this come from a top Horse Heaven Hills vineyard, and the resulting wine is superb. It opens with smoky aromas of mild oak and dark fruit, followed by velvety flavors of ripe blackberries. (50 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Olympic Cellars Winery 2006 La Dolce Vida Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $23
This winery near Port Angeles, Wash., used grapes from famed Bacchus Vineyard north of Pasco for this delicious Cab Franc. It opens with inviting aromas of black cherries and vanilla, followed by balanced flavors of dark fruit and a creamy midpalate. Pair with pork chops. (150 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Olympic Cellars Winery 2007 La Dolce Vida Boushey Vineyard Petit Verdot, Yakima Valley, $32
Winemaker Benoit Murat brought in Petit Verdot from one of Washington's finest vineyards, near Grandview in Washington's Yakima Valley. This opens with aromas of plums and blackberries followed by flavors of sweet raspberries, black licorice and tobacco leaf. It's a wine with abundant fruit from entry through the lengthy finish. (80 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Three Rivers Winery 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $29
Winemaker Holly Turner brought in grapes from North Ridge Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope and Sagemoor Vineyard north of Pasco for this luscious and pleasing Malbec. It opens with aromas of blackberries, minerality and an ever-so-slight hint of tobacco leaf, followed by bold flavors of black fruit and a touch of tar and leather. (300 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Abacela Vineyards and Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon, $27
This is about as mainstream as this Umpqua Valley producer gets with grape varieties. The grapes came from the estate Fault Line Vineyard, along with Pheasant Hill in the Rogue Valley. It opens with floral and black cherry aromas, followed by flavors of ripe plums and underlying notes of minerality and vanilla. (247 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2006 Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $22
This longtime Spokane winery reaches into one of the Columbia Basin's finest vineyards for this Cabernet Franc. It shows off fascinating aromas of espresso, black olives, dark chocolate and cherries, followed by juicy flavors of blackberries, black tea, chocolate and a hint of lavender. The winery recommends pairing this with beef tenderloin marinated in a huckleberry-Cabernet sauce. Sounds yummy. (414 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Black Hills Estate Winery 2007 Carmenere, Okanagan Valley, $33 CDN
Carmenere is a rare enough wine in the United States, and this must be one of the only produced in Canada. This winery just over the U.S. border on the venerable Black Sage Bench has crafted a Carménère with classic aromas of light cherries, plums and sweet earth. On the palate are flavors of Bing cherries, a hint of sweet herbs and a lingering finish. (140 cases, 13% alc.)
Fairview Cellars 2005 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $25 CDN
Owner/winemaker Bill Eggert uses his estate fruit for this classic Cab Franc from just south of Oliver, British Columbia. It opens with aromas of cherries and marionberries, followed by flavors of cherries, black olives and black tea. As we have come to expect from Okanagan Valley wines, this wine has tremendous acidity. (200 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Kettle Valley Winery 2006 Malbec, Naramata Bench, $35 CDN
Winemakers Tim Watts and Bob Ferguson enjoy a near-cult following for the red wines they produce on the Okanagan Valley's Naramata Bench. This Malbec opens with deep, dark aromas of marionberries and chocolate, followed by bold flavors of marionberries and blackberries. This is no wimpy wine and should be paired with something bold, such as barbecued ribs. (286 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Terra Blanca Vintners 2005 Malbec, Yakima Valley, $32
Owner/winemaker Keith Pilgrim has been crafting wines with this variety for a number of years and pretty much has it dialed in. This is a beautifully balanced red with aromas and flavors of blackberries, milk chocolate and a touch of spice. Pair with pasta in a puttanesca sauce. (526 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Cuillin Hills Winery 2006 Weinbau Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc, Wahluke Slope, $32
Winemaker Derek DesVoigne runs this Woodinville, Wash., producer. He brought in fruit from famed Weinbau Vineyard on the eastern Wahluke Slope for this reserve-style Cab Franc. It's an elegant wine with aromas of high-toned cherries and chocolate, followed by luscious flavors of red currants and Rainier cherries. The well-integrated oak is mere background music for this food-friendly wine. (186 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Fairview Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $25 CDN
Bill Eggert's winery and vineyard are next to a golf course just over the U.S. border, so he occasionally finds golf balls amid the vines and enjoys whacking them back into the fairway. This Cab Franc is like a well-struck driver that resonates through the body with complete satisfaction. It opens with aromas of huckleberries and mild oak, followed by flavors of blueberries, huckleberries and a touch of vanilla. (300 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Gamache Vintners 2006 Estate Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $28
The Gamache brothers grow grapes near the Washington town of Basin City, then hand their fruit over to winemaker Charlie Hoppes for the final product. This wine reveals aromas of peppercorns, blueberries and cloves, followed by round, ripe, hedonistic flavors of blackberries and plums backed with velvety tannins and sweet spices. (90 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Abacela Vineyards and Winery 2005 Petit Verdot, Southern Oregon, $40
One has to wonder whether owner Earl Jones grows certain grapes at his Umpqua Valley vineyard simply to say, "Oh yeah?" to those who say he can't. That might be the case here, as this Petit Verdot turned out wonderfully in a rather cool vintage - even by Oregon standards. This offers aromas of raspberries, mint and spicy oak, followed by flavors of blackberries, raspberries and a streak of minerality. You could enjoy it now with pork medallions or hide it in the cellar for a few more years. (161 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Eleven Winery 2006 Windy Ridge Vineyard Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $31
Windy Ridge Vineyard, a 160-acre vineyard north of the Columbia River, is the source of the grapes for this wine from a Bainbridge Island producer. It provides aromas of ripe cherries, light herbs and hints of vanilla and oak, followed by supple flavors of blackberries and spices backed with sweet tannins. (141 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Indian Creek Winery 2006 Woodriver Vineyards Malbec, Snake River Valley, $23
Many Idaho winemakers gravitate toward Woodriver, a vineyard near Homedale in the Snake River Valley. Veteran winemaker Bill Stowe and Mike McClure co-crafted this Malbec from its grapes, and it's a dandy. It provides aromas and flavors of ripe blackberries and plums, all backed with ample acidity and tannin. Said one judge: "Bring on the steak!" (96 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Morrison Lane 2005 Carmenere, Walla Walla Valley, $28
Dean and Verdie Morrison have been growing wine grapes in the Walla Walla Valley for a dozen years and launched their eponymous label a few vintages ago. This Carménère comes from estate fruit and shows off aromas of white pepper and bright cherries, followed by elegant flavors of Rainier cherries, red plums and minerally earth. (13.4% alc.)
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN
California escapee Sandra Oldfield has specialized in Cabernet Franc since arriving in the Okanagan Valley in 1995. This Cab Franc is classic Tinhorn, with aromas of bright cherries, light chocolate and a hint of vanilla, followed by clean flavors of strawberries and raspberries, all backed with beautiful acidity and mild tannins. Pair with lamb chops or a plate of soft cheeses. (2,566 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Gamache Vintners 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $28
Using 100% fruit from estate grapes, winemaker Charlie Hoppes has crafted a red wine with character. This opens with aromas of sweet spices and blackberries, followed by juicy flavors of blackberries and a streak of minerality. It's an approachable wine that will be best enjoyed in the next five years with braised lamb chops or beef Wellington. One judge described this wine as "sexy." Ooh-la-la. (190 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Herder Winery & Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $32 CDN
Lawrence and Sharon Herder own and operate this young winery in Keremeos, British Columbia. The grapes come from the Osoyoos area, just north of the U.S. border. This opens with perfumy aromas of herbal tea, raspberries and chocolate, followed by flavors of blueberries, cherries and black tea, all backed with ample tannins. (118 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Robert Karl Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills, $26
The owners of this Spokane winery love grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills, and they brought in Cab Franc from highly acclaimed Phinny Hill Vineyard, just north of the Columbia River. This opens with aromas of ripe black cherries, pencil shavings and sweet oak, followed by flavors of ripe Bing cherries. (100 cases, 14% alc.)
Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards 2006 Discovery Series Malbec, Okanagan Valley, $30 CDN
Sandor Mayer is the longtime winemaker for this Vincor-owned producer along the famed Golden Mile, south of Oliver, B.C. This wine uses grapes from McIntyre Vineyard near Oliver and reveals smoky aromas of cherries and light oak, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and sweet spices. (800 cases, 14% alc.)
Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards 2006 Discovery Series Petit Verdot, Okanagan Valley, $30 CDN
The Discovery Series wines at Inniskillin Okanagan use grapes not traditionally grown in the Okanagan Valley. This Petit Verdot is a pioneering effort north of the border and unveils aromas and flavors of blackberries and hints of oak. It's a well-structured wine with sturdy tannins, thus it can age for another half-decade or be paired sooner with roasted lamb. (400 cases, 14% alc.)
Fairview Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $25 CDN
Bill Eggert's current release of Cabernet Franc comes from his estate vineyard on the western side of the southern Okanagan Valley. This opens with aromas of ripe cherries, followed by delicate flavors of cherries and raspberries. It's an approachable wine that should pair beautifully with lasagna or pork chops. (250 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Recommended
Lopez Island Vineyards 2007 Crawford Vineyards Malbec, Yakima Valley, $20
This winery tucked into the scenic San Juan Islands buys grapes from the Yakima Valley for this classy Malbec. Owner/winemaker Brent Charnley normally uses this for blending but was so charmed by the 2007 vintage, he bottled it on its own. It reveals aromas and flavors of raspberries and hints of sweet herbs. (100 cases, 14% alc.)
Saviah Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley, $28
Winemaker Richard Funk brought in grapes from Seven Hills and McClellan vineyards for this lovely Cab Franc. It shows off aromas and flavors of cherries, chocolate, black tea and hints of leather. (191 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Sawtooth Winery 2006 Malbec, Snake River Valley, $25
This Corus Estates-owned winery is the Gem State's second-largest producer and has a reputation for fearlessly pushing ahead on out-of-the-mainstream varieties. This Malbec reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, raspberries, leather and hints of oak. It's a lovely red with beautiful balance. (140 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Spangler Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon, $30
Pat Spangler continues to produce wines of quality and style in the winery formerly known as La Garza Cellars. This Cab Franc offers aromas and flavors of lively berries, hints of leather and oak and a luscious dark chocolate finish. (445 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Eleven Winery 2006 Elerding Vineyard Petit Verdot, Yakima Valley, $38
Just a barrel of this wine was made using grapes from esteemed Elerding Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It opens with aromas of sweet blackberries and black pepper, followed by flavors of black currants and spices. (25 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Valley View Winery 2006 Anna Maria Cabernet Franc, Rogue Valley, $35
One of the Rogue Valley's oldest producers, Valley View crafted this reserve-level Cab Franc using grapes from Shady Cove Vineyard. It shows off aromas and flavors of bright cherries, hints of black olives and sweet herbs and black tea. (126 cases, 13.8% alc.)
DiStefano Winery 2004 Sogno, Columbia Valley, $32
This Woodinville, Wash., winery has produced this Cab Franc-based wine since 1997. The 2004 is 91% Cab Franc and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. It reveals aromas and flavors of warm spices, ripe dark fruit and sweet oak. (1,100 cases, 14.8% alc.)
E.B. Foote Winery NV Founder's Red, Columbia Valley, $28
Eugene Foote launched this Burien, Wash., winery in 1978, and current owner/winemaker Sherrill Miller bottled this blend of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon in Foote's honor. The grapes come from the Wahluke Slope, and the resulting wine reveals notes of berries and Dr Pepper, along with a rich mouth feel. (120 cases, 15.5% alc.)
Kestrel Vintners 2005 Winemaker Select Malbec, Yakima Valley, $40
The grapes for this growing Prosser, Wash., winery came from estate Kestrel View Vineyard and a smidge (2%) of Cabernet Sauvignon was added to the final blend. Thanks to winemaker Flint Nelson, it provides aromas and flavors of boysenberries, sweet herbs and a whisper of smoke. (325 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Abacela Vineyards and Winery 2006 Malbec, Southern Oregon, $25
The grapes for this Malbec came from the Cox's Rock and Chaotic Ridge blocks at this Umpqua Valley winery. It shows off aromas and flavors of blueberries, just-brewed espresso and a hint of minerality. (428 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Columbia Winery 2005 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley, $28
One of the most dramatic and beautiful vineyards in the state, Red Willow has enjoyed a long, successful relationship with this Woodinville, Wash., winery. This Cab Franc offers aromas and flavors of fresh blueberries, violets and a whiff of just-harvested alfalfa. It's an elegant wine with a gentle entry and seamless tannins. (500 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Hillside Estate Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $23 CDN
Now a quarter-century old, this winery on the Naramata Bench is well known for its wines as well as its bistro. This Cab Franc reveals aromas and flavors of ripe plums, Rainier cherries and underlying herbal notes. (750 cases, 12.8% alc.)
OS Winery 2006 Meek Vineyard Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley, $45
This Seattle producer crafted a somewhat rare Petit Verdot using grapes from a vineyard near Benton City, Wash. It offers aromas and flavors of raspberries, blackberries and a minerally notes. (75 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2006 Winemaker's Reserve Red Petit Verdot, Washington, $29
Longtime Spokane winemaker Mike Conway launches his "Winemaker's Reserve" line with this Petit Verdot. It provides powerful and complex flavors of ripe blackberries, plums and French press coffee. (340 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2006 Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $20 CDN
Our 2003 Northwest Winery of the Year has long been known for its Cabernet Franc. This comes from estate fruit on the venerable Black Sage Bench in the south Okanagan. This vintage reveals aromas and flavors of pie cherries, raspberries and a slight herbal note. (2,280 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Hester Creek Estate Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $26 CDN
Located amid a cluster of wineries just south of Oliver, B.C., Hester Creek primarily relies upon grapes from its 76 acres of estate vines. This Cabernet Franc is classic Okanagan Valley, with aromas and flavors of cherries, raspberries, herbs and pencil shavings. (495 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Sawtooth Winery 2005 Petit Verdot, Snake River Valley, $25
Launched in 1987 as Pintler Cellars, Sawtooth is one of Idaho's oldest and largest wineries. This Petit Verdot, crafted by Brad Pintler, unveils aromas and flavors of blackberries, boysenberries and a whisper of oak. (114 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Weisinger's of Ashland 2005 Gold Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Rogue Valley, $28
Gold Vineyard, a favorite amid Rogue Valley winemakers, was planted in 1983, and the grapes for this wine were added in 2001. Winemaker Chanda Beeghley has crafted a wine that provides aromas and flavors of chocolate-covered cherries, black tea and black raspberries. It's an elegant, well-made wine. (87 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Animale 2006 Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley, $28
Winemaker Matt Gubitosa focuses on producing small amounts of red wines from select Eastern Washington vineyards. This Petit Verdot comes from Gilbert Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope and reveals aromas and flavors of black cherries, black olives and coffee. A sweet entry gives way to bold tannins, which should pair well with grilled beef or lamb. (46 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Whitestone Winery 2005 Haig Family Estate Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $22
Located in the town of Wilbur, Wash., this winery uses grapes from its estate vines on the shore of Lake Roosevelt, a creation of Grand Coulee Dam. This is a bold expression of Cab Franc, providing ripe flavors of dark cherries, cranberries and leather. Firm tannins back up the ample fruit. (100 cases, 12.94% alc.)
Indian Creek Winery 2006 Woodriver Vineyards Barrel Select Petit Verdot, Snake River Valley, $40
Young winemaker Mike McClure has crafted a well-made and -balanced red from a grape very rare in Idaho's Snake River Valley. It provides aromas and flavors of ripe dark berries and hints of chocolate. Ample tannins would be tamed with a steak topped with blue cheese. (25 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Le Chateau Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $34
This new Walla Walla winery at the old World War II airport is best known for the artistic rendering on the front of the building that gives it the look of a fancy French chateau. This wine, from White Bluffs Vineyard north of Pasco, Wash., reveals aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and hints of sweet herbs and spices. (180 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Sandhill Winery 2005 Small Lots Program Phantom Creek Vineyard Petit Verdot, Okanagan Valley, $30 CDN
This label for giant Calona Vineyards focuses on using grapes from the southern Okanagan Valley. This rare Petit Verdot provides aromas and flavors of blackberries, raspberries and red licorice. (309 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Varietal Info
In Bordeaux, six grapes are officially recognized for producing red wines. For this judging, we sought out Northwest wineries using the four that are seen the least.
Cabernet Franc: Cab Franc has a lengthy history in Washington, partially because of its winter hardiness. It is most famous in France for being the "third" grape in Bordeaux and also is well known in the Loire Valley, particularly Chinon.
Malbec: Known primarily as a blending grape in Bordeaux, Malbec has enjoyed a boost in reputation thanks to Argentina, where it is the most-planted grape in that South American country. In the past three years, Malbec has become a darling with Washington winemakers.
Petit Verdot: Perhaps the least-known Bordeaux grape, Petit Verdot is primarily used to blend with other wines, often providing backbone in the form of tannin. It's also is one of the most-frequently misspelled varieties. At least two wines in our judging had the wine misspelled on the label as Petite Verdot.
Carmenere: Once planted in the Medoc region of Bordeaux, this grape was all but wiped out and not replanted after phylloxera swept across France. It was accidentally planted in Chile more than 150 years ago, thought to be Merlot until about a decade ago. A bit has been planted in the Walla Walla Valley with great success.
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