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Friday, Mar. 13, 2009

Oregon Winery to Watch 2009: Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards


Even a marketing genius might scoff at the notion of labeling Stephen Reustle's second career as "divine intervention."

But the proof is in the bottles from Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyard.

Reustle, in fact, moved his family in 2001 to Roseburg, Ore., to create a vineyard and launch a winery after selling his direct marketing company in Pennsylvania.

"We have 35 acres planted here, and all the blocks have a Biblical significance," said Reustle (pronounced as Russell). "We named one of blocks as Noah's Bloc. Few people know that in the book of Genesis it talks of Noah being the very first vineyard owner, the very first winemaker and the very first drunk!"

Noah would - and many judges do - enjoy the wines from this young Umpqua Valley operation, which is why Wine Press Northwest named Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyard as its Oregon Winery to Watch for 2009.

Reustle 53, and his wife, Gloria, 41, received a number of gold medals in 2008 from wine competitions. The 2006 Pinot Noir earned gold at the Los Angeles International and the West Coast. His 2006 Tempranillo also garnered gold at L.A., the Northwest Wine Summit and an "Outstanding!" from Wine Press Northwest. The 2007 Viognier also earned "Outstanding!"

However, Reustle's production of the Austrian white variety Gruner Veltliner first gained him acclaim, and a gold medal at last year's West Coast for the 2007 Gruner Veltliner proves the grape will work in the Umpqua Valley.

"I was in Austria on a motorcycle tour of the Alps in 2001 and went into an expensive restaurant," Reustle recalls. "I asked the waiter to bring out what he thought was the best example of Austrian white wine, and he brought out a Gruner Veltliner (pronounced Velt-LEANER)."

The grape enchanted Reustle, so he consulted with Southern Oregon University climatologist Greg Jones and began planting. His first commercial vintage of the variety was 2005.

"We were the first in the U.S. to grow it and make it," Reustle said. "Now I know of at least one other winery in the Willamette Valley that does it."

The winery opened in April 2006 with the release of estate fruit from the 2004 vintage. Bottlings now include Grenache, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah, with Malbec, Roussanne and Semillon also planted. Production is at 5,000 cases, and guests sample wines inside caves built into a hillside.

Reustle called himself a self-taught winemaker, but he credits Australian professor Richard Smart as well as Oregon vintners Joe Dobbes, Kiley Evans, Earl Jones and neighbor Scott Henry for guidance over the years.

And the notion of using a Gandhi quote on a cork of a Dobbes wine gave Reustle an idea which led to a sin in the eyes of the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) regarding that inaugural 2004 vintage.

"I challenged my Sunday school class to come up with a Bible verse that I could put on my cork that would put wine in the proper light," Reustle said.

A student offered up Ecclesiastes 9:7 - "Drink your wine with a happy heart. God approves of this."

The TTB did not approve. "You are making a therapeutic curative claim with this," Reustle was told.

Problem was he'd sunk the corks in the bottles. He pleaded ignorance and asked for mercy. Word came that he could use up that shipment, but never cite that verse again on cork.

"We are allowed to put 'Ecclesiastes 9:7' on the cork," Reustle said. "Our hope is that someone opens the bottle, looks at the cork and says, 'Who would put Ecclesiastes 9:7 on a cork?' and then goes to the Bible."

A medical emergency drew Stephen to Christianity several years ago, and the Reustles want to use their wine to spread their message.

"We're looking at this to be the machine to build a school, a seminary and a pastors retreat," he said. "The first step in that was starting a Christian academy school. And we have men's Bible study here every Thursday. I supply all the wine and the appetizers, and we study God's word. It's just great fellowship." e

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, 960 Cal Henry Rd., Roseburg, OR, 97470, 541-459-6060, reustlevineyards.com.