Wednesday, Jan. 14, 2009

Woehler on Wine: Saint Laurent, Jones

By Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest tasting editor

TRI-CITIES, Wash. -- You can thank the fertile soils of the Columbia Basin for the excellent wines from two of the state's newer wineries, St. Laurent of Malaga and Jones of Washington in Quincy.

Both have familiar stories.

Saint Laurent is owned by folks descended from pioneer Wenatchee-area fruit growers, and Jones has its roots in a longtime Columbia Basin spud-growing family.

Both families decided to grow wine grapes and then started making wines.

Now, they're crafting tasty wines at decent prices, generally in the lower $20 range. Their wine grapes come from the up-and-coming Wahluke Slope area near Mattawa.

Saint Laurent was voted Wine Press Northwest's Washington Wine to Watch in 2007, an apt designation because almost every one of its wines is an award winner.

The winery is owned by Michael and Laura Laurent Mrachek. The winemaker is Craig Mitrakul, who was trained by Charlie Hoppes of Fidelitas.

Saint Laurent 2005 Syrah, Wahluke Slope, $28 -- Inviting aromas of black pepper with hints of smoke give way to blackberry flavors and nice tannins. Try it with a bacon-wrapped filet of beef with porcini mushrooms.

Saint Laurent 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, $22 -- Vanilla oak, bing cherries and chocolate are the hallmark of this straightforward wine. Create a gourmet-style meat loaf to match.

* www.saintlaurent.net

Jones of Washington has 50 years of farming experience behind it. Jack Jones started planting wine grapes on the Wahluke Slope in 1997 and is the owner, while his son Greg Jones oversees the vineyard operation. Winemaker Victor Palencia gained his experience in the Yakima Valley.

Jones 2005 estate Merlot, Wahluke Slope $18 -- Smooth cherry jam flavors, juicy and enjoyable. Matches well with roasted turkey breast topped with a dried cherry glaze.

Jones 2005 estate Syrah, Wahluke Slope, $20 -- Rated "Outstanding!" by Wine Press Northwest, this one offers balanced oak aromas with loads of lip-smacking boysenberries. Find some ground buffalo or lean ground beef and grill up a burger.

* jonesofwashington.com

* Bob Woehler has been writing about Pacific Northwest wines since 1978. E-mail him at bwoehler@charter.net or check out past columns at www.wine pressnw.com.