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It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."
PROSSER -- Construction is expected to start soon on the next phase of what backers say will be the state's premier educational and promotional center for Washington's wines and food products.
This week: Dowsett Family Gewurztraminer. Celilo Vineyard. Platinum Judging. Wine calendar. Great Northwest wine lists. Raptor House.
Dec. 23, 2008
Vol. 9, No. 52
Wine Press Northwest's Wine of the Week is an independent opinion based on double- and single-blind tastings.
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Dowsett Family Winery 2007 Celilo Vineyard Gewurztraminer
Appellation: Columbia Gorge
Outstanding! Chris Dowsett spent years at Canoe Ridge Vineyard in Walla Walla, which focused its Gewurz project in the Columbia Gorge, so he knows this acclaimed 24-year-old site in Underwood, Wash. The stunning results, achieved with 0.5% residual sugar, prompted one judge to comment "the Northwest goes to Alsace." Wonderful floral characters of rose water, honeysuckle, pears and mango gush out on the palate with more tropical notes. Grapefruity midpalate acidity and a citrus pith finish make this a marvelous wine. Rated "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest magazine.
Price: $22.
Cases produced: 100.
Food matches: Pair with a rich chicken dish such coq au vin or lemon risotto.
Dowsett Family Winery, 1211 Sand Pit Road, Touchet, WA 99360, 509-527-8738, http://www.dowsettwines.com
-- Tre Nova 2006 Secopassa, Columbia Valley
-- Gray Monk Estate Winery 2006 25th Anniversary Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley
-- Miceli Vineyard and Winery 2005 Merlot, Snake River Valley, $12
-- Columbia Crest 2005 Two Vines Merlot-Cab, Columbia Valley, $8
This 60-acre operation is near the town of Husum - straight north across the Columbia River from Hood River, Ore.
Celilo might fall under the radar because its focus is such varieties as Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer. However, these grapes are highly prized by such top producers as Woodward Canyon Winery in the Walla Walla Valley and Ken Wright Cellars in Oregon's north Willamette Valley.
Celilo is owned and operated by Rick and Jody Ensminger, who sell their fruit to two dozen wineries, many of which turn them into vineyard-designated bottlings.
Unlike most of Washington's more famous vineyards, Celilo is in a cooler zone that sees some 50 inches of rain per year (primarily in the winter) and much cooler temperatures. This region has silty loam soils (vs. the sandy loam generally found in the arid Columbia Valley), and heat units range between 1,500 and 2,000 annually.
The results of our ninth annual Platinum Judging - the best of the best in the Great Northwest - is in our Winter issue of Wine Press Northwest magazine. And we've also put it online.
Each year, we collect wines that win gold medals in any of about 30 competitions we track worldwide, then we pit them against each other. This year, we received a record 329 wines, up significantly from last year's 259 entries.
Jackie Johnston, our supremely talented freelance photographer, has created a calendar for 2008 that features many of the great images she has captured from throughout Pacific Northwest wine country.
These make a great gift and are only $20 each.
An early winter arrived this weekend in Washington's Columbia Valley and has gripped the region in sub-freezing temperatures and a few inches of snow. Overnight temperatures were close to zero with wind chill around minus-4. This is expected to continue through the rest of the week.
The Columbia Valley is famous for its long, warm days and lack of precipitation. The region's Achilles heel is the occasional winter "event," which can wreak havoc with vines. If one looks at the last 60 years, one of these events occurs every five to eight years - like clockwork. The last one? Five years ago.
Typically, these events occur when there is a warm period followed by a sudden drop in temperatures, often 60 degrees in one or two days. That is not the case right now, though I have to wonder if the vines have had an opportunity to properly harden after a harvest that was about a week or two later than usual.
Time will tell, but Washington wine country could be facing issues if this Arctic event continues for long.
The Winter issue of Wine Press Northwest is at the printer as I type and should be arriving to subscribers as early as this weekend. Highlights include:
-- A Wine Lover's Guide to Seattle.
-- Results of our ninth annual Platinum Judging, the "best of the best in the Great Northwest."
-- A complete harvest report.
-- Hundreds of wine reviews.
Each week, we will spotlight one of our winners from our annual Great Northwest Wine Lists competition.
This week: Waterfront Seafood Grill Seattle
Program: No bargains, but a star-studded lineup of Columbia and Willamette valleys with young boutiques (Efeste, Gorman, Va Piano) for spice.
Policies: Rarely seen glass pours include Woodward Canyon's 2005 Artist Series Cab ($30). Winemaker dinners run almost monthly.
Pressings: One page devoted to wineries in the Seattle area. Available are hard-to-find Cabs by Barons V and Boudreaux's reserve, as well as a handful of half-bottles from famed producers.
2801 Alaskan Way, Pier 70, Seattle, 98121, 206-956-9171, www.waterfrontpier70.com
Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest managing editor, visits Kestrel Vintners in Washington's Yakima Valley for a benefit for the Raptor House.
You can watch the Northwest Winecast two ways (both free):
On our Web site:
On YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/WinePressNW
SANTIAM WINE CO.
1930 Commercial St. Salem. Specialty wines. We ship! M-Sat 11-6.
503-589-0775
http://www.santiamwine.com
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