In the Pacific Northwest, most of the popular wine grapes are firmly rooted in France: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah.
Yet here and there, Italian grapes are slowly catching on. It began with Sangiovese and has spread to such varieties as Barbera, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. Even the California-centric Zinfandel is gaining a foothold.
This summer, we gathered the greatest collection of Northwest Italian reds ever tasted to gauge how the region is faring. The wines are molto bene - very good indeed!
Looking through the results of our tasting of 78 reds, trends quickly emerge. Wineries with names such as Ponzi, Cuneo, Stella Fino and Stomani would seem to have a natural advantage thanks to their Italian heritage, and their wines bubbled to the top. Barnard Griffin earned three top "Outstanding" awards, which is simply a combination of great grapes and equally superior winemaking.
We were thrilled to see young producers taking a chance with mostly untested varieties, and many were rewarded for their outstanding wines, including Balsamroot, Trio, Des Voigne and Jacksonville Vineyards. And mature producers Silver Lake and Columbia also showed their mettle.
One thing to keep in mind: All of these wines are made in small amounts. Of the 78 wines we tasted, only four were produced in quantities of more than 1,000 cases. This means many of the wines here will be difficult to find outside of the producers' tasting rooms. So if you want them, check your favorite local retailer or hop online.
Our judges for this competition were Jessica Munnell, former Chateau Ste. Michelle red winemaker who is launching her own winery this fall; Bob Woehler, the dean of Northwest wine writers and Wine Press Northwest's tasting editor; Hank Sauer, longtime Northwest wine enthusiast and tasting facilitator for Wine Press Northwest; Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest managing editor; and Andy Perdue, Wine Press Northwest editor-in-chief.
Outstanding
Silver Lake Winery 2006 Roza Hills Vineyard Reserve Zinfandel, Rattlesnake Hills, $19
Several years ago, this Woodinville, Wash., winery took over the former Covey Run building in what now is the Rattlesnake Hills appellation in the northern portion of the Yakima Valley near the town of Zillah. Silver Lake has since annually crafted wines from Roza Hills, a 235-acre vineyard next to the Silver Lake tasting room. The Rattlesnake Hills AVA is proving to be a good region for suave red wines, as this Zinfandel reveals. It opens with aromas of chocolate, fresh cherries and huckleberry pie, followed by a luscious, dense and jammy mouth feel loaded with ripe cherries and huckleberries. (264 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2005 Gunkel Vineyards Barbera, Columbia Valley, $25
Owner/winemaker Rob Griffin has long worked with the Gunkel family for Italian varieties, particularly Zinfandel. This vineyard-designated Barbera is a new wine for this Richland, Wash., winery, and it is superb. The Gunkel operation is in the eastern Columbia Gorge near the community of Maryhill, and these longtime grape growers supply grapes to many top Northwest wineries. This gorgeous wine opens with aromas of spicy cranberries and raspberries, along with hints of lilacs. It follows with bold flavors of ripe plums, black cherries and black pepper. Hints of cinnamon and clove provide underlying complexity and Montmorency cherry notes provide food-friendly tartness on the finish. (397 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Ponzi Vineyards 2006 Dolcetto, Willamette Valley, $25
At first, it's outrageous to think that the Ponzi family would try to grow this Piedmont grape in the cool, rainy Willamette Valley. Yet the amazing quality of this wine forces us to shift our proverbial paradigm. The Ponzis planted Dolcetto in 1992 at the estate Aurora Vineyard in the northern Willamette Valley, making it one of Oregon's oldest plantings of this variety. This wine is from one of the warmest Oregon vintages on record. It opens with wafts of lilacs and lavender, along with notes of bright cherries, raspberries and even hints of blueberries. On the palate are luscious flavors of ripe plums and blackberries that provide beautiful balance. Pair this with stuffed flank steak or roasted duck. (580 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Maryhill Winery 2007 Rose of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $10
Best buy! In our year-end Platinum Judging last year, the 2006 version of this pink beauty captured our judges' attention and tied for the best wine of the competition. The 2007 vintage is no less amazing. Winemaker Craig Larson crafted this stunning follow-up before he headed south to take a job in Temecula, Calif. This opens with opulent aromas of bright, clean strawberries and Rainier cherries, followed by luscious flavors of fresh strawberries. It shows remarkable complexity on the palate and shows off beautiful balance and structure before finishing dry. This rose should pair well with a variety of food, from salmon to grilled meats. (1,450 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2007 Rose of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $12
Best buy! Winemaker Rob Griffin perhaps didn't figure how this rose would take off when he first started making it. Yet this wine annually wins top awards around the country. The fruit comes from longtime grape grower and friend Maury Balcom, who farms in the Columbia Basin north of Pasco. This wine's gorgeous color makes you want to reach for the glass, which offers aromas of fresh strawberries and cherries. On the palate is an amazing array of flavors, including cranberries, rhubarb, pomegranates and peaches. It's dry from beginning to end, so don't confuse this seriously great wine with some California Kool-Aid. Pair this with everything from surf to turf, from Sunday brunch to Thanksgiving dinner. (3,200 cases, 12.4% alc.)
Des Voigne Cellars 2006 San Remo Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $26
Winemaker Darren Des Voigne refers to this as his signature wine - as well he should. Des Voigne, proprietor of this Woodinville, Wash., boutique operation, is inspired primarily by the wines of Tuscany, and that Italian region's signature grape is beautiful in his hands. The grapes come from famed Red Mountain vineyard Ciel du Cheval, as well as nearby Candy Mountain Vineyard. It opens with bold bright aromas of Chelan cherries, raspberries and red plums, followed by bright flavors of plums and Rainier cherries. This wine is absolutely loaded with fresh fruit and ample acidity. It's a youthfully fun wine with smooth, creamy tannins and a lengthy and memorable finish. (223 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Five Star Cellars 2006 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, $28
Matt Huse is a walking advertisement for the Walla Walla Community College's winemaking program. An early graduate of the department, he quickly joined his father, David, in this family operation. Vintage after vintage, their wines have been nothing short of remarkable. This wine is a beauty. It contains grapes from Neuffer, Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards. The result is a spicy, sexy wine with exotic aromas of huckleberries, vanilla cream and red plums, followed by beguiling flavors of ripe raspberries, blackberries and hints of milk chocolate, all backed with bright acidity and silky tannins. Enjoy this with a big plate of lasagna. (475 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2005 Hells Gate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $25
Somebody needs to find out if Rob Griffin has any Italian in his heritage because he certainly has a knack with these styles of wine. Griffin has been crafting a Zin from this Maryhill, Wash., vineyard for several years, so its success in our blind tasting is not a great surprise. This vineyard is owned and meticulously farmed by the Gunkel family. This classic, hedonistic wine shows off aromas of black raspberries, black cherries and pepper, followed by a bright, clean entry that leads to a luscious, full-bodied midpalate loaded with ripe raspberries and plums. It's a big, bold wine with plenty of length. (360 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Morrison Lane 2004 Nebbiolo, Columbia Valley, $35
Dean and Verdie Morrison began planting their vineyard in 1994, then launched their winery with the 2002 vintage. They were first known for Syrah, but they also planted unusual varieties for Washington. Nebbiolo is famous in the Piedmont region of Italy, where it goes into Barolo and Barbaresco. This version offers great hope for the variety in the Northwest, as it opens with aromas of black cherries and smoky notes, followed by big flavors of mushrooms and ripe, sweet raspberries. This is a bold, tannic wine, as is typical of the variety, yet it's perfectly balanced with fruit and acidity. This should age beautifully for a decade or more, or pair it with the thickest of steaks. (146 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Columbia Winery 2006 Barbera, Columbia Valley, $28
When Associated Vintners launched in 1962, it was the first Washington winery dedicated to using European wine grapes. During David Lake's 27 years at the helm, the winery that became known as Columbia Winery earned a reputation for experimentation. Now, with Kerry Norton as winemaker, it continues with this delicious Italian-style red. It opens with aromas of cedar, Bing cherries and raspberries, followed by voluptuous flavors of blackberries, juicy cherries and dark chocolate. Approachable and expressive tannins back this wine and provide a long, lingering finish. (650 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Stella Fino 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley, $25
This Milton-Freewater, Ore., winery is off to a fantastic start with this stellar Barbera. Owner/winemaker Matt Steiner is focused on making Italian-style wines in the Walla Walla Valley, honoring his great-grandmother, Stella Fino, who emigrated from Italy to New York in the early 1900s. This red takes advantage of grapes from Lonesome Spring Ranch near Benton City, Wash. It opens with stunning aromas of sweet oak, blackberries, kitchen spices and chocolate shavings, followed by flavors of big, bright fruit, cinnamon and coffee. Ripe fruit provides a round mouth feel that leads to a lengthy, pleasing finish. (72 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Stomani Cellars 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $26
After graduating from WSU's enology program, Alex Manoni launched his Italian-focused winery in Seattle SoDo district. This is Manoni's first release, and it is a stunner. The grapes are from Wahluke Slope Vineyards near Mattawa, Wash. The wine opens with aromas of cloves, cinnamon and blueberry pie, along with hints of cola and chocolate. On the palate, it opens with smooth, clean, bright red fruit, followed by delicious flavors of black licorice. Tannins are in check, and plenty of food-friendly acidity backs up the ample fruit. This is perfect for roasted meats or pasta dishes. (135 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Jacksonville Vineyards 2006 Zinfandel, Applegate Valley, $38
This young producer near the historic Southern Oregon town of Jacksonville is off to a superb start, thanks in part to this luscious Zinfandel. Dave and Pamela Palmer moved to the Applegate Valley some 15 years ago to purchase a 100-year-old homestead, where they began planting a vineyard and later building their production operation. This big Zin is complex in the nose with aromas of black olives, dark cherries, black pepper and chocolate, followed by bold flavors of black raspberries and plums. The lush mouth feel is backed with plenty of backbone, leading to a lingering finish. A perfect match with barbecued ribs. (75 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Abacela Winery 2006 Dolcetto, Southern Oregon, $20
Earl and Hilda Jones migrated across the country to Oregon's Umpqua Valley specifically to grow grapes for which they were passionate. Winemaker Kiley Evans handled the perfectly ripe grapes with a deft touch, crafting a wine that opens with pretty aromas of violets, sweet spices, black cherries and hints of fresh espresso. On the palate, this wine is bursting with flavor, showing off blackberries, raspberries, cherries and chocolate. Its powerful entry is backed with rich, expressive tannins that give way to a pleasing fruit-driven finish. Pair with cannelloni. (316 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Trio Vintners 2006 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $26
Three Walla Walla Community College enology grads, Denise Slattery, Tim Boushey and Steve Michener, are the trio behind this young producer at the Walla Walla airport. This Zin delivers, thanks in part to the inclusion of small amounts of Mourvèdre, Sangiovese and Syrah. The grapes came primarily from the hot Wahluke Slope, though fruit from the Yakima, Columbia and Walla Walla valleys also contributed. It opens with aromas of red peppercorns, dark cherries and strawberry jam, followed by big flavors of raspberries and spicy cherries. This wine has a lot of alcohol, but the fruit helps to carry it. We'd drink it young with barbecued ribs. (80 cases, 16.2% alc.)
Tre Nova 2006 Bonatello, Columbia Valley, $17
Once upon a time, Gino Cuneo owned Cuneo Cellars in Carlton, Ore. Changes in ownership and philosophy led to that winery being renamed and Cuneo starting over. He's off to a remarkable beginning with his new brand and focus. This Sangiovese comes from Eastern Washington grapes, where Cuneo has forged relationships with top growers for years. This opens with inviting aromas of allspice, cherries and fresh rose petals. The palate opens with flavors of sweet cherries and raspberries. This wine has a fair bit of tannin and alcohol, but it's very polished. Pair this with grilled meats or rich pasta dishes. (325 cases, 15.9% alc.)
Tre Nova 2006 Secopassa, Columbia Valley, $40
Gino Cuneo's top-end wine is this blend of Sangiovese and Barbera. Cuneo has worked with Jim Holmes of Ciel du Cheval for years, even planting some of the first Brunello clone Sangiovese in Washington on the slopes of Red Mountain. Cuneo dried the grapes in the Amarone style, then crafted a wine that reveals aromas of red currants, green olives, black raspberries and a doppio espresso. A luscious entry leads to bold flavors of wild strawberries, black cherries and hints of dark chocolate. It's a big wine that deserves a rich steak. (143 cases, 16.8% alc.)
Forgeron Cellars 2005 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $30
It is entirely possible that Burgundian-trained Marie-Eve Gilla never worked with Zinfandel before arriving in the Walla Walla Valley. She has been producing Zin for Forgeron since 2002, and this is her finest effort to date. This opens with complex aromas of white pepper, spicy raspberries and blueberries, followed by bright flavors of rich, ripe raspberries and cherries. The oak is well integrated, playing a bit of background music in a symphony of flavors. (485 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Balsamroot Winery 2006 Hard Row to Hoe Zinfandel, Wahluke Slope, $35
The husband-wife team of Don and Judy Phelps are behind this Chelan area producer, with Judy in the cellar and Don working the vineyard. This blend of Zinfandel (75%) and Merlot uses grapes from Pheasant Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, and it is a dandy. It opens with aromas of blackberries, black pepper and ripe blueberries, followed by big, luscious flavors of black cherries, ripe plums and hints of rhubarb pie. It's loaded with fruit from beginning to end and has an amazing finish. Pair this with barbecued meats or a hearty lasagna. (221 cases, 15% alc.)
Excellent
Maryhill Winery 2005 Proprietor's Reserve Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $32
In a well-documented achievement, this winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge put Washington Zin on the map a few years ago with a victory over more than 200 California wines. This release opens with aromas of black cherries, chocolate and a hint of maple syrup, followed by thick, delicious flavors of rich, ripe fruit as well as chocolate cake with raspberry filling. It's a hedonistic wine. (980 cases, 16.4% alc.)
Yellow Hawk Cellar 2006 Barbera, Columbia Valley, $20
Barbara Hetrick and Tim Sampson launched Yellow Hawk Cellar in the late '90s intent on crafting Italian-style wines. This small Walla Walla winery has remained true to these ideals with this Piedmont grape. It opens with aromas of warm berries, pomegranates and baker's chocolate, followed by elegant, fruit-driven flavors that include cherries and boysenberries. It is backed with plenty of acidity and should pair well with grilled pork or spicy sausages. (364 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Willow Crest Winery 2004 Collina Bella, Yakima Valley, $24
More than three decades ago, Piero Antinori created an entirely new class of wines called Super Tuscans by blending Sangiovese with nontraditional grapes. Yakima Valley winemaker David Minick has followed the formula with this wine, which is a blend of 84% Sangiovese and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon. It opens with aromas of dark berries, cloves and sweet herbs, followed by luscious flavors of blackberries, vanilla and a good dose of oak. The round mouth feel is backed with plenty of structure, leading to a memorable finish. (180 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Tre Nova 2006 Bonatello Riserva, Columbia Valley, $35
Owner/winemaker Gino Cuneo has long made wine in Oregon's Willamette Valley. With this new project, he focuses almost entirely on his first love, Italian-style reds. This reserve-level Sangiovese opens with aromas of spicy cherries, floral notes, black olives and even hints of cranberries. On the palate, this provides a supple entry that gives way to smooth, elegant flavors of cherries, red currants and pomegranates. (122 cases, 15.9% alc.)
Palotai Vineyard & Winery 2005 Dolcetto, Umpqua Valley, $15
Best buy! Gabor Palotai learned winemaking in his native Hungary, then came to the New World to launch his eponymous winery in 2001. He has produced a string of delicious wines ever since. This wine is a terrific effort, opening with aromas of red plums, black pepper, fresh strawberries and hints of forest floor. On the palate, this is an easy-drinking wine with flavors of cranberries and red currants. It has amazing acidity and will pair well with a variety of Italian dishes. (210 cases, 13.0% alc.)
Morrison Lane 2005 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, $26
Dan Morrison learned his winemaking skills from John Abbott (Canoe Ridge and Abeja) and has put them to good work at this family operation. This is a gorgeous wine that shows off aromas of cloves, pencil shavings, bright cherries and hints of vanilla. On the palate, it reveals smooth, well-balanced flavors of Rainier cherries, hints of red licorice and cinnamon. This is a food-friendly wine that should pair well with hearty pasta dishes, grilled meats or stews. (147 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Walter Dacon Wines 2006 Sangiovese, Red Mountain, $31
To this point, owner/winemaker Lloyd Anderson has made his reputation for this small Shelton, Wash., winery with inspiring bottlings of Syrah. In 2004, he began making Sangiovese after Scott Williams, winemaker for Kiona Vineyards Winery, sold him some grapes from his Red Mountain vineyard. It's a zesty wine with aromas of moist earth, straw, cherries and allspice, along with flavors of cherries and cloves. It's a juicy wine, yet it's backed with impressive acidity that should help it gain even more complexity for the next several years. (188 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Waving Tree Winery 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $15
Best buy! Terrence Atkins is building a reputation for his Italian-style reds, as he makes four wines using Italian varieties. This Sangiovese opens with bright aromas of raspberries, cranberries and a hint of rhubarb. It's a beautifully balanced wine with flavors of cranberries, rhubarb and cherries with notes of vanilla. Supple tannins and bright acidity give this huge food-pairing potential. (1,500 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Tefft Cellars 2005 Villa Toscana, Yakima Valley, $14
Best buy! Owner Joel Tefft has always had a deep interest in all things Italian. This led him to embrace Italian varieties long before they became stylish in Washington. Villa Toscana is a blend of Sangiovese (65%), Nebbiolo (15%), Zinfandel (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). It opens with intriguing aromas of spicy cherries, cola, golden raisins and vanilla, followed by complex flavors of cherries and raspberries. (420 cases, 13% alc.)
Locati Cellars 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley, $28
This is the first release of Michael Locati's new winery, and it's a dandy. The grapes came from Lonesome Spring Ranch, a vineyard near Benton City, Wash. This wine is a bit subdued at first, then begins to show off dark berries on the nose. The entry bursts with dark fruit flavors and leads to a rich midpalate. Pair with grilled meats or hearty pasta dishes. (90 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Barnard Griffin 2004 Vino Rosso, Columbia Valley, $19
This is primarily Barbera (90.4%), with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon, and proceeds go toward helping animals. It's an alluring wine with aromas of spices and rich, dark fruit, followed by expressive flavors of blackberries and plums. It's a balanced wine with great length and terrific food potential. (126 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Kyra Wines 2007 Purple Sage Vineyard Dolcetto, Wahluke Slope, $20
This Moses Lake, Wash., winery is on a fast track with the quality of its wines. This is a delicious example of Dolcetto, thanks to aromas of milk chocolate and blackberries, followed by flavors of blackberries warmed by the late afternoon sun, along with chocolate undertones. It's a balanced wine with moderate tannins and a delicate fruit finish. (88 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Morrison Lane 2005 Dolcetto, Walla Walla Valley, $24
Dean and Verdie Morrison planted just over a half-acre of Dolcetto on their estate vineyard in Washington's Walla Walla Valley. This is a superb example of the Piedmont grape, with aromas of cloves, cinnamon, blackberries and forest floor, followed by flavors of red plums, cherries and boysenberries. Expressive tannins and bright acidity provide all the necessary structure. (73 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Stella Fino 2005 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, $25
Owner/winemaker Matthew Steiner moved from New York to follow his passion for winemaking. For this wine, he acquired grapes from Pepper Bridge Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. It's a young, bright wine with aromas of rhubarb and wild strawberries. On the palate, it shows flavors of cherries and cranberries. (67 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Eagle Haven Winery 2006 Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, $20
This winery near the Skagit Valley town of Sedro-Woolley, Wash., produces both grape and fruit wines and will soon be releasing wines from its estate vineyard. It reached over the Cascades for these grapes. This wine opens with aromas of blackberry jam, plums and milk chocolate, followed by ripe flavors of blueberries and Rainier cherries. Bright tannins and moderate tannins prop up all the fruit and provide the backbone for a hearty meal. (200 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Working Girls Wines 2006 Gracefully Aging Red, Horse Heaven Hills, $22
Olympic Cellars owner Kathy Charlton is a tireless worker and promoter, and this whimsically named wine is a Zinfandel from the Horse Heaven Hills that opens with aromas of cherries and vanilla, followed by luscious flavors of raspberries and black cherries. It's a boldly structured wine with all the balance one could hope for. (150 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Woodward Canyon Winery 2007 Dolcetto, Walla Walla Valley, $19
Owner/winemaker Rick Small has been a maverick his entire career - and no less so with this wine, which was the youngest in our judging. Aged just five months in oak, it was bottled in April and released in June. It's a fun and exciting young wine with aromas of cherry extract and delicate spices, followed by expressive flavors of cherries. This wine has a fair bit of finesse and should pair well with a plate of pasta. (403 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Claar Cellars 2006 White Bluffs Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $19
The Whitelatch family has been growing grapes on bluffs above the Columbia River for nearly 70 years. This Sangiovese shows off gorgeous aromas of cherries, cola and vanilla, followed by flavors of rich, ripe red fruit backed with bright acidity, well-toned tannins and a long, lingering finish. It's a nicely priced wine that will pair well with everything from pizza to prime rib. (240 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Waving Tree Winery 2005 Sangiovese-Cab, Columbia Valley, $20
This blend is crafted by a small winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge. It opens with aromas of cranberries, bright cherries and rhubarb pie, followed by big, plush flavors of ripe cherries, red plums and hints of chocolate. This is a pretty big wine with assertive tannins, yet it has all the fruit for a balanced mouth feel. Pair this with grilled meats or a hearty pasta dish. (150 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Zefina Winery 2004 Sangiovese, Horse Heaven Hills, $20
Zefina is owned by Corus Estates, a Seattle company with vineyard and winery holdings throughout the Northwest. All of the grapes come from the estate Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. Winemaker Rob Chowanietz has crafted a delicious Italian-style red that opens with aromas of wild strawberries and cranberries, followed by flavors of cloves and ripe Chelan cherries. (350 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Locati Cellars 2005 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, $28
For his first wine, Michael Locati already has tapped into one of Washington's top vineyards in Pepper Bridge near the Oregon border. This is a complex wine, showing off aromas of lilacs, cedar, white pepper, cherry cola and even black fruit notes. On the palate, it reveals a rich mouth feel that includes flavors of ripe raspberries and Chelan cherries. (75 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Maryhill Winery 2005 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $20
Using grapes primarily from nearby vineyards (Gunkel and Alder Ridge), this top Washington producer has crafted an expressive and balanced wine. It opens with aromas of red licorice, black cherries and a hint of minerally earth, followed by flavors of ripe plums and cranberries. Its acidity and tannins expertly balance the fruit. We would pair this with a plate of aged cheeses, pork chops or lamb stew. (2,055 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Quenett Cellars 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley, $20
Named after a local native word for "steelhead," this Hood River, Ore., winery is focusing on Italian varieties. This Barbera is crafted in the Old World style, with exotic aromas of dark berries, black olives and new leather. It's a richly structured and complex wine on the palate, offering dark and, dare we say, brooding flavors of black currants and ripe plums. This should pair well with heavier meals, such as grilled steaks topped with sauteed mushrooms or carmelized onions. (310 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Zerba Cellars 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $28
In the Walla Walla border town of Milton-Freewater, Ore., this small winery is making a big name for itself with superior offerings. Winemaker Doug Nierman blended Sangiovese (86%) with Syrah (14%) to craft a wine that opens with aromas of dusty cherries, chocolate and sweet herbs, followed by big flavors of ripe cherries and hints of blackberries. It's a smooth, delicious wine with a rich mouth feel and tannins that provide little more than background music. (319 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Maryhill Winery 2006 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $18
If Maryhill didn't pioneer Zinfandel in Washington, then it certainly has raised the grapes profile with consumers and critics alike. This delicious Zin opens with aromas of light cedar, chocolate and blackberries. On the palate, it reveals luscious flavors of rich, round black fruit, and black licorice. It's a boldly structured wine that will pair well with brisket or pasta tossed with chorizo. (2,560 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Tefft Cellars 2007 Dolcetto Rose, Yakima Valley, $12
Winemaker Joel Tefft launched his winery in 1990 and has increasingly focused his efforts on Italian varieties. This delicious and off-dry rose opens with aromas of rhubarb, cranberries, apricots and oranges, followed by bright, zippy flavors of strawberries, cherries, papayas and Texas pink grapefruit. It is loaded with flavor and acidity and shows off the Dolcetto grape. (105 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Cascade Cliffs Winery 2005 Nebbiolo, Columbia Valley, $50
Bob Lorkowski purchased this winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge in 1997 and has gained a near-cult following for his Italian- and Rhone-style wines. This opens with complex aromas of black cherries, violets and rosewater, followed by big flavors of black fruit and cherry cordials. It's a rich wine with typical assertive tannins that are balanced with all the fruit. One would be well served to age this for a few years. (220 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Pontin del Roza 2007 Roza Sunset, Yakima Valley, $10
Best buy! The Pontin family has been making wine in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser, Wash., for many years. This rose, made from Dolcetto, is delicious. It opens with aromas of lychee, honeysuckle, fresh strawberries and even cotton candy. On the palate, it offers flavors of fresh strawberries sprinkled with a bit of sugar. (50 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Columbia Winery 2006 Red Willow Vineyard Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, $28
Grape grower Mike Sauer enjoyed a long relationship with winemaker David Lake over the latter's 27-year career at Columbia Winery. That relationship continues with Kerry Norton, who now directs Columbia's winemaking efforts. This Sangiovese offers aromas of bright cherries, red berries and vanilla. On the palate, this easy-drinking red shows off flavors of ripe red cherries and cranberries backed with solid acidity and plush tannins. Pair this with pasta, pork, beef or even ham sandwiches. (300 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Thurston Wolfe Winery 2006 Zephyr Ridge Vineyard Howling Wolfe Zinfandel, Washington, $20
Wade Wolfe has worked with such varieties as Zin, Primitivo and Petite Sirah for years. This bad boy comes from one of Wolfe's favorite vineyards in Washington's Horse Heaven Hills. It opens with aromas of espresso, black olives, sweet herbs and black cherries, followed by big flavors of ripe cherries and sweet herbs. It's a thick wine with chewy tannins, yet it has so much fruit, the structure isn't too over the top. (390 cases, 15% alc.)
Barking Frog 2006 Sangiovese, Washington, $28
Ron Helbig wowed us with his Pinot Noir, and now the Sherwood, Ore., winemaker has followed up with this superb Sangiovese. This opens with lovely aromas of moist earth and bright cherries with just a hint of oak. A bold fruit entry on the palate leads to an elegant mouth feel rich in ripe cherries. (127 cases, 15% alc.)
Animale 2006 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $22
Winemaker Matt Gubitosa launched Animale in 2001, producing tiny amounts of wine in his Seattle operation. This is primarily Zinfandel (87%), with a bit of Syrah, Grenache and Petite Sirah. It starts with aromas of black and green peppercorns, hints of chocolate and underlying dark fruit. On the palate, the fruit is enormous, exploding on the entry and dominating with flavors of raspberries, black cherries and blackberries. Enjoy this lusty wine with barbecued ribs or a pesto pizza. (46 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Recommended
Stina's Cellars 2005 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $25
This winery near University Place, Wash., has crafted a tasty Chianti Classico style of red with aromas of cloves, vanilla and cherry and bold flavors of big red fruit. It's nicely balanced with moderate tannins and solid acidity. Pair with pasta or roasted meats. (75 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Trio Vintners 2006 Sangiovese, Walla Walla County, $20
It is a rare bottle of wine that carries the "Walla Walla County" appellation. Of the four vineyards whose grapes contributed to this wine, Tasawick is outside the valley. This opens with aromas of cloves and cherries and flavors of raspberries and bright cherries. (168 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Skylite Cellars 2007 Rose, Columbia Valley, $15
Best buy! Longtime Washington winemaker Robert Smasne crafted this Sangiovese rose. It opens with huge aromas of cherries and raspberries, and follows up with round, fruit-driven flavors. (56 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Pontin del Roza 2006 Angelo Pontin Dolcetto, Yakima Valley, $15
Best buy! This wine's name is a tribute to Angelo Pontin, the family patriarch who emigrated a century ago from Italy to the United States. It's a delicious red with aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries, sweet spices, a bit of oak and bright acidity. (250 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Novelty Hill 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $25
Longtime Washington winemaker Mike Januik oversees operation of this Woodinville, Wash., winery. It shows off aromas and flavors of ripe plums and black cherries, as well as hints of vanilla and oak spices. (303 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Pend d'Oreille Winery 2005 Kestrel Vineyard Sangiovese, Washington, $28
The grapes for this wine came from Kestrel Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It's loaded with bright Chianti-like flavors, including cranberries and pomegranates. Pair with pork, turkey or roasted chicken. (186 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Whidbey Island Winery 2006 Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, $17
Greg and Elizabeth Osenbach blended a bit of Merlot (14%) into this Sangiovese. It is a luscious wine with aromas and flavors of cherries and vanilla. It's beautifully balanced with bright acidity and modest tannins, providing food-friendly structure. (300 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Quenett Cellars 2004 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $26
This Sangiovese reveals aromas and flavors of spicy cherries and dense plums. It's a richly structured wine that will pair well with barbecued meats. (220 cases, 14.6% alc.)
Thurston Wolfe Winery 2006 Zephyr Ridge Primitivo, Horse Heaven Hills, $28
Wade Wolfe is one of the very few in the Northwest working with this grape. It's a big, brooding wine with aromas and flavors of dark cherries and ripe plums and also shows a slight bit of leather. This is available only at his tasting room in Prosser, Wash. (120 cases, 15% alc.)
Waving Tree Winery 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley, $15
Best buy! This winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge has crafted a version that shows off sweet spices and black cherries backed with a fair bit of oak. (150 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Tamarack Cellars 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $25
Owner/winemaker Ron Coleman's newest wine is delicious, showing off aromas and flavors of bright cherries, cloves and toasted oak. (140 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Maryhill Winery 2005 Proprietor's Reserve Barbera, Columbia Valley, $26
This dark, brooding wine offers a rich entry, assertive tannins and mouth-filling fruit. It's still pretty tightly wound, so laying this down could well allow it to stretch its legs in a couple of years. (647 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Tefft Cellars 2005 Villarocca, Rattlesnake Hills, $18
This Super Tuscan-style blend includes Sangiovese (75%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (25%). It opens with aromas of dried cherries, sweet spices and vanilla and gives way to bold cherry and raspberry flavors with assertive tannins. (105 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Pontin del Roza 2007 Angelo Pontin Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, $18
This is a complex wine with aromas of lavender, raspberries and cedar, as well as robust flavors of Rainier cherries. Enjoy with a hearty plate of lasagna. (350 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Quenett Cellars 2005 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $20
This Zin reveals aromas and flavors of forest floor and notes of raspberries and red currants. It's a rich wine that should pair well with grilled and barbecued meats. (227 cases, 15.7% alc.)
Basalt Cellars 2005 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $26
Washington's Columbia Valley is some 11 million acres in size, and the far eastern edge is Clarkston, Wash., home to Basalt Cellars. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of bright, tangy cherries and clean, bright acidity. This would be perfect with Pasta Puttanesca. (112 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Ferraro Cellar 2005 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $21
This Newberg, Ore. producer focuses on grapes from the Columbia Valley. This Zin reveals aromas and flavors of red plums, Rainier cherries and leathery notes. It should pair well with lamb chops or prime rib. (30 cases, 14.9% alc.)
Lone Canary Winery 2006 Barbera, Wahluke Slope, $15
Best buy! Spokane winemaker Mike Scott turned to Milbrandt Vineyards for this northern Italian grape. It's a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of lush dark fruit and chocolate. Solid tannins and acidity provide structure for pairing with a hearty meal. Quality wines at affordable prices are common from this downtown operation. (432 cases, 14% alc.)
Kyra Wines 2005 Sangiovese, Wahluke Slope, $18
Using fruit from their estate Pheasant Vineyard, Kyra and Bruce Baerlocher of Moses Lake, Wash., have crafted a tasty Sangiovese with aromas of chocolate, coffee and cherries and flavors of cranberries with plenty of structure. (385 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Waving Tree Winery 2005 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Nebbiolo, Horse Heaven Hills, $40
Coyote Canyon is a 900-acre vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, and it was planted in 1994. This delicious Nebbiolo by this Goldendale, Wash., winery reveals black cherries and blackberries, along with big tannins typical of this variety. (99 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Maryhill Winery 2005 Proprietor's Reserve Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $32
This supple wine reveals aromas and flavors of sweet spices and ripe Rainier cherries. Assertive tannins balance with all the fruit and acidity, making this a wine to pair well with boldly flavored food. (667 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Italian red varieties
Italy is one of the world's largest and oldest wine-producing nations. Its winemaking styles are as varied as the country itself. Here is a primer on the grapes we encountered in this judging of Northwest Italian reds.
Sangiovese: Sangiovese is most famous in Tuscany, particularly Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Montepulciano.
Nebbiolo: Many collectors put Nebbiolo alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir as the three greatest red wine grapes on the planet. This normally tannic wine is grown in Piedmont, a region in northwestern Italy. There, it goes into Barolo and Barbaresco.
Barbera: This widely planted grape is most famous in Piedmont and Lombardy.
Dolcetto: This is known as "little sweet one" in its native Piedmont, and resulting wines show off darker-toned fruit and pair well with beef-based dishes.
Zinfandel: A lot of controversy surrounds this grape's origins. It's widely planted and most revered in California, particularly in the Dry Creek Valley but also in the Central, Napa and Alexander valleys. Scientists have determined Zinfandel is identical to Crljenak Kastelanski, a Croatian grape. They also believe it is closely related to Primitivo. It's traditionally Italian, however, thus included in this judging. This should go without saying, but Zinfandel is a red grape; "White Zinfandel" is usually a lowly regarded rose invented in California.
Primitivo: There is much debate in academic circles about the origin of this grape. Geneticists conclude Zinfandel and Primitivo are different clones with the same parentage. The federal government lists the two as separate varieties, not synonyms. It is likely Croatian in origin and Italian in tradition.
Print
E-Mail
