Oliver serves as the "Wine Capital of Canada," home of the Golden Mile and gateway to the Okanagan Valley.
And yet, this humble town along Highway 97 might be British Columbia wine country's least appreciated.
However, the controversial and pending construction along the Okanagan River of what is being billed as Canada's first "wine village" would dramatically change the face of a sleepy downtown.
In 1921, B.C. premier "Honest" John Oliver arranged for an irrigation canal as part of a package to attract and assist World War I veterans. The city has grown to a population of 4,400, largely because of its acclaimed orchard fruit.
The claim as Wine Capital of Canada comes from the concentration of wineries and vineyards, the highest in the country. There are more than 120 wineries in the province. You can reach more than 30 of them within minutes of Oliver.
Nearly half of the province's 7,500 acres of vineyards are planted around Oliver, including the famed Black Sage Bench. It is one of the most productive in B.C. and part of what geologists refer to as the Great Basin Desert. Burrowing Owl Estate Winery is in the middle of the Black Sage Bench - a vineyard area with temperatures beyond 100 Fahreneit.
Wineries: The number in the Oliver/Osoyoos area has reached 30. The most established include Black Hills (co-owned by actor Jason Priestly), Burrowing Owl, Domaine Combret (now doing business as Antelope Ridge), Fairview, Gehringer Brothers, Golden Mile, Hester Creek, Inniskillin, Nk'mip, Jackson-Triggs and Tinhorn Creek. Jackson-Triggs opened its stylish gallery in 2007. Among the new operations is the boutique Le Vieux Pin, named Wine Press Northwest's 2008 B.C. Winery to Watch.
Among the most remarkable stories in the Canadian wine industry is that of the Osoyoos Indian Band - owners of Nk'Mip Cellars. Pronounced "in-ka-meep," it is the first winery on the continent that is owned and operated by aboriginal people. This year marks the 40th anniversary of Inkameep Vineyard, and the band controls more than 1,100 acres of vines - a quarter of the total in the Okanagan Valley.
Lodging: The closure of the Southwind Inn leaves Oliver without a budget motel. There are a number of B&Bs in the area, as well as the posh new guest house at Burrowing Owl. Osoyoos has motels, cottages and B&Bs ringing the lake, but Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa is a destination with Nk'Mip Cellars, the acclaimed Passatempo Restaurant and Sonora Dunes Golf Course.
Food: Toasted Oak is a dining destination and features a long list of B.C. wines. Outdoor seating is available and features overhead misters. And the former firehouse also is home to one of the best wine shops in the Okanagan Valley. (Editor's note: Starting Sept. 1, Toasted Oak is closed Sundays and Mondays through the winter.)
Best of India should not be overlooked. Cock & Bull Cappuccino Bar serves up tasty gourmet breakfast burritos. Burrowing Owl's bustling restaurant is a worthy luncheon stop.
Osoyoos gives Yanks a last chance at Tim Horton donuts before crossing the 49th parallel and hearing the border guard tell you, "Welcome home."
As of June 1, 2009, a valid passport is required for re-entry into the U.S. Anyone with a DUI conviction in the U.S. is not allowed into Canada. There are restrictions about taking wine across the border.
More info: The Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association site is oliver.totabc.com.
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