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It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."
PROSSER -- Construction is expected to start soon on the next phase of what backers say will be the state's premier educational and promotional center for Washington's wines and food products.
You could feel the sensory anticipation at Reid Hall on the Whitman College campus in Walla Walla, Wash., where 50 folks paid good money to sample vintage Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
It was all part of the Walla Walla Wine Alliances Vintage Walla Walla event, destined to be a classic weekend where folks can enjoy a learning experience of vintage wine and food of the Pacific Northwest.
A tasting panel represented the cream of the crop of pioneer Walla Walla wineries, included Woodward Canyon, Leonetti, L'Ecole No. 41 and Seven Hills.
The two-day event in early June promises to be an annual can't-miss event. It included a tour of vineyards, a vineyard lunch, the vintage panel discussion and a vintage pour and a pavilion tasting featuring up to 55 Walla Walla wineries.
Also on hand for a discussion was Braiden Rex-Johnson, Wine Press Northwest's own food-and-wine writer, who was signing her latest cookbook.
The folks who had paid to attend the vintage panel tasting joined winemakers and renowned grape growers.
Marty Clubb, owner/winemaker at L'Ecole, said he believes that two or three years in the bottle can bring out more characteristics in a red wine.
Rick Small of Woodward Canyon noted that aging wine gives him a reference point as to what each vintage is doing.
Chris Figgins now does most of the winemaking at Leonetti. He said one of the delights regarding a vintage wine is the bouquet, where incredible secondary aromas are developed over time.
Casey McClellan of Seven Hills spoke about how a particular vintage can evoke fond memories for a serious wine consumer.
I agree that aging Northwest wines, sometimes for even up to 20 years, can make them more enjoyable with delicate bouquet and smooth nuances in the flavors. But not always. I, like others, have let some wines age too long. That is when anticipation and fascination turn into disappointment.
I must say that I enjoyed the vintage wines, but I also love young vintages. That's because most of our red wines are built ready to drink and enjoy when released.
The wine comparison for the panel included the following.
Woodward Canyon Winery 1994 Dedication Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Floral, balanced with plenty of flavors and aromas left. Made from vines planted in 1971-'72.
Woodward Canyon Winery 2004 Dedication Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: A whole lot like the 1994 with bittersweet chocolate, great balance inviting oak and tight blackberries.
Leonetti Cellar 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Aromas of oak and leather with tasty flavors of boysenberries, strong tannins and a great finish.
Leonetti Cellar 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley: Aromas of oak and black currants with lingering raspberry flavors, supple tannins and lively acids.
L'Ecole No. 41 1997 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Eighty percent merlot with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc created a Merlot that has aged well. Shows leather, spice, licorice, cherry and cedar components but it has started to fade a bit.
L'Ecole No. 41 2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Light toasty oak with cedar. Flavors of bright cherries.
Seven Hills Winery 1995 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: A great chance to compared two vintages from the same Red Mountain vineyard. Still has substantial tannins for more aging. Characteristics of black olive, truffles and some juicy ripe berry fruit and chocolate.
Seven Hills Winery 2005 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain: Not quite as heavy as the 1995 with a touch of leather and fine leaf tobacco on the aromas and gobs of black raspberry fruit with a smooth lingering finish.
Later, when I attend the vintage tasting featuring more Walla Walla wineries, I ran across three beauties that also caught my fancy.
Abeja 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Great tannins and toast of the oak with nice fresh berries.
Five Star Cellars 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley: Robust full bodied favors with nice touches of bottle bouquet. This and the Abeja are the third 2001 vintage Walla Walla red I've tasted this year, and I'm convinced 2001 will go down as a great vintage.
Walla Walla Vintners 1997 Spring Valley Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Beautiful cherry/berry favors dominate this gracefully aging wine.
Pepper Bridge 1999 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: It is concentrated and ripe with juicy black cherry, currant, chocolate and spice flavors. Mostly new French oak barrels, adds a hint of vanilla and toast. Supple and polished with a long finish.
Reininger Winery 1999 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: This won the Grand Award at the Pacific Northwest Enological Society 2001 competition and still is very grand. Fruit forward, hints of tobacco and coconut with bright bing cherry flavors.
BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest's tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.
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