Sunday, Jun. 15, 2008

Three decades of Leonetti Cellar

By Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest

The first time I met Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar some 30 years ago, he was coming out of the basement of his Walla Walla, Wash., home carrying a bottle of homemade Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was a 1975, and when I tasted, it blew me away. It was gorgeous and every bit the equal of the Chateau Ste. Michelle 1975 Cab that was drawing rave reviews across the country.

I knew Gary was onto something. So did he.

I thought of that first meeting when I led the Wine Press Northwest crew on a visit to Leonetti Cellar this spring to help Gary, his wife, Nancy, and son, Chris, observe the winery's 30th anniversary.

So much has happened over the past 30 years to Leonetti Cellar, and almost all of it has been good.

Gary, a machinist working for Continental Can Co. in Walla Walla, grew up around wine from his Italian Leonetti side and decided with National Guard buddy Rick Small of Woodward Canyon fame to make homemade wines.

"When I went commercial, all I was hoping for was not to mess up," Gary said.

His mother, Virginia Leonetti Figgins, is 89 and "really proud of what I've done and loves my wine."

Gary said he was hoping for success when he first ventured into the wine business but had no idea that it would be as big as it has turned out.

I fondly remember that first visit when the winemaking facility was housed in a small garage behind their home on the outskirts of Walla Walla with wheat fields and the picturesque Blue Mountains looming up behind.

The Wine Press Northwest crew - Andy Perdue, Eric Degerman, Hank Sauer, Jackie Johnson and Coke Roth - was on hand with me for a nostalgic look at what has become one of the most famous wineries in America.

It's mind boggling that Leonetti will sell the bulk of yearly releases over a two-day weekend each spring for prices between $80 and $125 per bottle.

That's a far cry from the $11 a bottle I paid to purchase the 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon, which later was voted by Wine & Spirits magazine as "the best Cabernet produced in America."

It was that notice and later accolades that gained Leonetti its reputation as a sought-after producer of great Pacific Northwest Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots.

Standing this spring on a hillside looking down at what that fame has brought, I was impressed by the pastoral scene of vineyards, grass, a pond and attractive winery buildings, all of which are near the initial garage winery.

Like the wines produced in these buildings, all are first-class, impressive facilities.

Chris used his background of agriculture and engineering to help in the vineyards and to design the winery with its impressive cave-like cellar that is so clean, you could eat off the floor. Since 2001, Chris has taken over the winemaking duties.

Consistently gaining praise for their wines over the years, the Figginses' biggest challenge now is to make sure as many folks as possible get to buy the wines, as there is a waiting list to get on their wine buying list.

Gary has always had a great sense of humor regardless of his fame and is a down-to-earth guy. Back in the late 1980s, famed Napa Valley pioneer Robert Mondavi created Opus One with Baron Rothschild of Bordeaux's Chateau Mouton, their silhouetted profiles facing away from each other is on the label. It is one of America's most prestigious and expensive wines. So Gary and grape-growing friend Maury Balcom decided to create their own noncommercial wine called Opus 7-5/8, which was both guys' hat size. It was a Pinot Noir, and they had their silhouetted profiles not facing away but nose to nose. The bottle label turned out to be a collectors item. I can't vouch for the wine inside.

Serving Leonetti wines has always been a way to say to friends that they are something special.

In addition to Leonetti's three new releases, Gary opened a couple of older wines to celebrate the 30-year anniversary.

Leonetti 1985 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley: Like a nicely aged Bordeaux, this shows off aromas of leather and dark currants. The flavors are berry-like, and there's still plenty of tannin and fruit left for more aging.

Leonetti 1989 Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington: Slight herbal aromas are backed up with bits of bittersweet chocolate. The flavors are delicious and youthful with cherries and raspberries.

And now on to the new releases:

Leonetti 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $65: A blend of premium Walla Walla and Columbia valley grapes with lavender and violet aromas. The flavors are fresh and fruity and very smooth. Think ripe Bing cherries laced with milk chocolate.

Leonetti 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $80: Big and chewy with great tannins for great aging potential. Vanilla and black currants aromas with a hint of mint. The flavor profile ranges from cranberries to touch of licorice.

Leonetti 2005 Reserve, Walla Walla Valley, $125: A classic blend of 63 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Petit Verdot and 17 percent Merlot. Plums and spice aromas make this big wine a great keeper to lay down for a few of years. Complex and very drinkable now with smooth tannins ripe black fruit, spices and herbs.

BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest's tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.

• Comments
• Add Comment
• Disclaimer