Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.
The casual simplicity of summer in the Northwest inspires cooks to savor the season's bounty: gorgeous greens and herbs; fresh asparagus; plump cherries, berries and peaches; and succulent salmon.
We begin our simple summer supper with Thai Seafood Cakes with Coconut-Chili Sauce, a recipe from longtime Pike Pub & Brewery chef Gary Marx that's reprinted from my Pike Place Market Cookbook (Sasquatch Books, 2003). Make the seafood cakes as directed (or buy your favorite seafood or crab cakes at the store), then begin the sauce by whisking together three-quarters of a cup of mayonnaise (low-fat works fine here), half a cup of Thai sweet chile sauce (Mae Ploy is a good brand), a quarter cup of coconut milk (low-fat or regular), along with one tablespoon each chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Drizzle the seafood cakes with the sauce just before serving.
Pair the seafood cakes with Joie Wines' 2007 A Noble Blend (Okanagan Valley, $21 CDN). This intriguingly aromatic combination of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Kerner, Pinot Gris and Ehrenfelser blossoms into a triple punch of citrus on the palate: pink grapefruit, lemon-lime and orange water with medium-light body and good acidity.
We continue our summer supper with Grilled Asparagus Salad with Prosciutto, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Balsamic Vinaigrette, a recipe from my latest book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007). Begin by blanching two pounds of trimmed green asparagus. Toss the asparagus spears with four tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil until coated, season with salt and pepper and grill on a gas or stove-top grill over medium-high heat for two to three minutes.
Make the vinaigrette by whisking together two tablespoons each balsamic vinegar and minced shallots with one teaspoon of honey in a small, nonreactive bowl. Whisking constantly, add six tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a slow, steady stream, blending well after each addition, until the sauce becomes thick and shiny. Season with salt and pepper. Divide the asparagus among four plates, drizzle with the vinaigrette and drape two slices of prosciutto over the top. Top each plate with one cup of mesclun (salad greens) and another drizzle of vinaigrette. With a clean vegetable peeler, shave curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano over the tops of the salads and serve immediately.
British Columbia chef Rob Feenie suggests pairing his asparagus salad with a good-quality Pinot Gris. Adelsheim Vineyards' 2006 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, $18) fits the bill, with aromas and flavors of pear, white peach and apple kissed with spice, all nicely balanced by a slightly creamy texture and a long finish. This complex Gris cuts through the rich prosciutto and the salty cheese while not doing battle with the char of the asparagus.
Northwesterners await the coming of the first salmon of the season much like Francophiles await Beaujolais Nouveau. With that in mind, why not get the biggest piece of wild king or sockeye salmon you can afford, grill it medium rare and serve it with the kicky Spanish-inspired Romesco Sauce that appears in the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2005)? Begin by placing one very ripe tomato (cored and coarsely chopped); four cloves of garlic (cut in half); one-third cup of toasted whole almonds; two slices of white bread (crusts removed and crumbled); one-quarter teaspoon each crushed red pepper flakes, ground hot paprika and kosher salt; and one-quarter cup red wine vinegar in a food processor or blender. Pulse until only very small pieces remain, then add one-quarter cup of extra virgin olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the mixture is smooth and thickened. Season to taste with additional salt, paprika or red wine vinegar.
Pair the salmon with Ponzi Vineyards' 2007 Rosato (Willamette Valley, $17). This light and lovely Pinot Noir Rosé is like a strawberry blonde in stilettos, with bright watermelon, cotton-candy and strawberry aromas; strawberries, cherries and a touch of sweetness in the mouth; all balanced by racy acidity.
Finish your simple summer supper with a medley of fresh Northwest berries (straw-, rasp-, blue-, black-) drizzled with Ice Wine Syrup, another recipe from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining courtesy of Cellar Door Bistro chef Neil Schroeter. In a small saucepan, stir together one cup of granulated sugar and one-half cup of water and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add two-thirds cup of good-quality ice wine (see my recommended wine below) along with one-quarter cup of Grand Marnier or Triple Sec and one-quarter teaspoon of pure vanilla extract. Stir well and cool. Divide the berries among balloon-shaped wine goblets, drizzle with the syrup, dollop with crème fraîche or whipped cream and serve with crisp butter cookies or shortbread.
Make the Ice Wine Syrup using Sumac Ridge Estate Winery's 2005 Gewürztraminer Ice Wine (Okanagan Valley, $30 CDN, 375 ml), which seduces the nose like an exotic perfume, rife with rose petal and Muscat aromas and flavors of sweet honeyed melon and apple. Savor the last sweet sips of ice wine with the berries.
Casual, simple and succulent. That's summer cookin' in the Northwest!
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