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It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."
PROSSER -- Construction is expected to start soon on the next phase of what backers say will be the state's premier educational and promotional center for Washington's wines and food products.
It seems like only yesterday that I drove to Prosser to sample a Chenin Blanc and a riesling from a new winery called Hogue Cellars.
But that was 25 years ago. And I’ve since watched this iconic Prosser winery grow, mature and change, yet not lose its focus on turning out top wines at affordable prices.
It seems to matter little who has been making the wines over the years because each new set of winemakers has been just as dedicated as their predecessors.
Today’s crew includes Co Dinn, director of winemaking, and winemakers Jim Mills and Jordan Frier. They are following in the footsteps of award-winners Mike Conway, Rob Griffin and David Forsythe.
Such expertise helped build Hogue Cellars into the largest premium winery in the Pacific Northwest not connected to Chateau Ste. Michelle Estates. With production this year expected to reach 600,000 cases, Hogue is right behind Columbia Crest and Chateau Ste. Michelle.
Quite a legacy for the pioneer Prosser family of Wayne and Shyla Hogue and their two sons, Mike and Gary. It was Mike and Gary who developed the winery on the outskirts of Prosser along the Yakima River and directed it through its first 20 years.
Constellation Brands, the world’s largest wine company, owns Hogue and has shown the common sense to let Hogue be Hogue, complete with all the great wine varieties the winery introduced over the years.
Mike Hogue is on to other endeavors with a new winery called Mercer Estates to open this year just down the street from his old winery, with Forsythe its head of winemaking. Gary Hogue serves as the Hogue brand ambassador and is actively involved in sales and brand promotions.
Even today, Hogue is pioneering, turning out the bulk of its wines in screw caps and showing off four different styles of wines, starting with its Hogue and Genesis labels and reserve wines with limited production. And finally its Terroir line, in which the winemakers showcase a unique varietal from a particular wine-growing region.
They are all good.
2006 Fume Blanc, red label, Columbia Valley, $6-$7 — If any wine defines Hogue over the past 25 years, it’s sauvignon Blanc. The winery probably has won more national awards for its fume Blanc than another winery in America. The latest has the classic smokiness, hence the name “fume,” yet it’s crisp with grapefruit and lemon and a perfect match for shellfish, especially oysters on the half shell.
2007 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley, red label, $6-$7 — When it was called Pinot Gris, it didn’t sell real well. When the name changed to Pinot Grigio — the Italian spelling — it sold like hot cakes. Go figure. This is a refreshing white wine with vibrant fruit flavors and crisp acidity, making it versatile in pairings with food. Aromas of juicy peach, pear and apple, with notes of orange blossom and nutmeg.
2005 reserve Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $20-$22 range — Reserved and elegant with firm oak underpinnings balanced with rich pear and apple flavors.
2005 Viognier, Horse Heaven Hills Terroir, $20-$22 range — Terroir aims to show off a particular region and this achieves that with yummy orange Creamsicle flavors fresh as a daisy and crisp as a spring day.
2006 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $6-$9 range — Great balance at 1.8 percent residual sugar. The 14 percent Gewürztraminer gives it plenty of peach and citrus characteristics.
2006 Late Harvest white Riesling, Columbia Valley, $6-$9 range — Always a favorite at Hogue. Great for a summer day, with 4.5 percent residual sugar and the acids to balance the tangerine and apricot aromas and flavors.
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, red label, $7-$8 range — If you can buy a more satisfying cab at this price, buy it. A muscular red with plenty of structure, great berry and oak aromas and flavors with plenty of depth. The winemaker says there is a hint of hickory smoke. I don’t think I’ve ever smelled hickory smoke, but it must be pleasant.
2004 Genesis Merlot, Columbia Valley, $10-$12 — Hogue has always made classic merlots, and this 2006 selection grabs your attention with tons of smooth berries and fruit.
2006 Terroir Syrah, Columbia Valley, $20-$22 — Think rich chocolate cake with a layer of raspberries. A most pleasing drink.
2004 Terroir Malbec, Andrews Vineyards, Horse Heaven Hills, $20-$22 — Spicy oak and huckleberries are the hallmark for this.
2004 Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon, Andrews Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills, $20-$22 — Lively, full and complex, starting with blackberry aromas and finishing with boysenberries and spices.
2004 reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $25-$30 — A most affordable reserve red, smooth with coffee and vanilla aromas and cocoa and dark berry and strawberry flavors.
* Bob Woehler has been writing a biweekly column about wines of the Pacific Northwest since 1978. E-mail: bwoehler@charter.net.
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