Bargain Bob is at his parsimonious best this time, finding real bargain wines in Prosser, considered by many as the cradle of the Washington wine industry.
Folks started making wines in Prosser in the early 1970s, and the town is the home of the late Dr. Walter Clore, called the father of Washington’s modern wine grape industry.
Many wineries use Yakima Valley sources for grapes that prefer cooler climates — such as Riesling.
There has been a big growth spurt lately of new wineries coming to the Prosser area with the latest count at a couple dozen.
Two wineries, including longtime Prosser winery fixture Hogue Cellars and the sizable Snoqualmie Vineyards nearby, offer excellent wines in the $8 range.
Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $7: One of my favorites. Big and rich without being over the top on the oak and buttery feel. Lots of citrus, tropical fruit and great crispness.
Hogue Cellars 2006 Fumé Blanc, Columbia Valley, $9: If any wine defines Hogue during the past 25 years, it is Sauvignon Blanc. Hogue may have won more national awards for its Fumé Blanc style than any winery in America. The latest version has the classic smokiness, yet it’s crisp with grapefruit and lemon and a perfect match for shellfish, namely oysters on the half shell.
Hogue Cellars 2007 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley, $9: When they called it Pinot Gris, it didn’t sell too well. When they changed the named to Pinot Grigio — the Italian spelling of the same grape — it sold like hot cakes. Go figure. This is a refreshing white with vibrant fruit flavors and crisp acidity, making it versatile to pair with food. Aromas feature juicy peach, pear and apple with notes of orange blossom and nutmeg.
Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Whistle Stop Red, Columbia Valley, $9: An excellent bargain, this straight-forward
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is smooth and fruity with hints of oak and bacon in the aromas and flavors of blueberries and dark currants.
Snoqualmie Vineyards 2003 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $10: Keeping a fruity, jam-like youthfulness, the aromas of cherries leap out of the glass and the flavors are lush, elegant and complementary.
Hogue Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $10: If you can buy a more satisfying Cab at this price, let me know. A big, muscular red with plenty of structure, there are great berry and oak aromas and flavors with plenty of depth.
BOB WOEHLER has been writing about wine since 1976.