Reds
Reds
Cabernet Sauvignon
Airfield EstatesNV Cabernet Sauvignon
Yakima Valley, 230 cases, $24
Outstanding! This
new winery in the Vintners Village of Prosser, Wash., has a
beautiful building and is producing several gorgeous wines under
the direction of Marcus Miller. This superb effort shows off
aromas of black raspberries, green peppercorns and milk
chocolate, followed by smooth flavors of berries. It’s a
beguilling wine with a sweet mouth feel, supple tannins and
well-integrated oak.
Barnard Griffin Winery
2006 Cabernet
Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 7,000 cases, $17
Outstanding!
The previous vintage earned a Double Platinum for Rob Griffin,
and this has a similar feel to it. Beautiful oak ushers in hints
of cherries, vanilla, chocolate and sarsaparilla. Awaiting is a
nice blend of cherries and brambleberries with a juiciness that
stretches out into an exploding midpalate of smoooooth
boysenberries and wild blackberries, then finishes with rich dark
chocolate. In many retail shops, this will be priced at the Best
Buy! level.
Basel Cellars Estate Winery
2005 Pheasant Run
Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Walla Walla Valley, 1,058
cases, $36
Recommended. Estate fruit from this destination
winery showcases cassis, blueberries, cedar and leaf tobacco with
a nice structured that will sidle up well to tomato-based Italian
dishes and artisan pizza.
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2004 Ethos
Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 900 cases,
$38
Outstanding! Winemaker Bob Bertheau scoured the Columbia
Valley for the best grapes he could find for this reserve-level
Cab. About 30% came from select vineyards in the Horse Heaven
Hills, Wahluke Slope and Red Mountain AVAs. This is, perhaps, the
finest effort yet in the Ethos line. It opens with aromas of rich
berries, sweet herbs and chocolate, followed by flavors of dark
berries, black currants and milk chocolate. Firm tannins give
this wine plenty of structure and had us thinking about pairing
it with tenderloin.
Ferraro Cellar
2005 Hillside Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 102 cases,
$21
Recommended. Haake’s Hillside Vineyard in The Dalles,
Ore., is managed by Lonnie Wright, and Dick Ferraro turned the
fruit into a bright and rustic drink with cherries, herbs,
pleasing milk chocolate and bold tannins.
E. B. FooteWinery
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 183 cases,
$18
Recommended. Graves and Milbrandt vineyards produced all
the Cab, including the Cab Franc (6%), for this food-friendly
release filled with vanilla oak notes, raspberry jam and sour
cherry candy.
Frenchman’s Gulch
2005 Cabernet
Sauvignon
Washington, 216 cases, $25
Recommended. Eastern
Washington fruit went to Idaho’s Rockies, where it evolved into
notes of cherry jam, strawberry fruit leather and green bell
pepper. A hint of tartness should make this good dinner company
for Italian food.
L’Ecole No. 41
2005 Cabernet
Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 4,764 cases, $30
Outstanding!
Each year, Marty Clubb cherry-picks from some of the best and
most mature vineyards in Washington — Bacchus & Dionysus, Candy
Mountain, Klipsun, Pepper Bridge, Portteus, Stone Tree — and
estate Seven Hills in Oregon. And each year, this is one of his
best bottlings. Inviting are aromas of blackberries and oak,
cherry cola and earth — a thumbprint of Seven Hills. Rewarding is
the palate, rich on the entry with blackberries, black
raspberries and moist earth. Cherries carry on through to the
finish, riding through supple but sturdy tannins.
L’Ecole No.41
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Walla Walla Valley, 1,761 cases,
$37
Outstanding! The little school house in Lowden, Wash.,
provides a geology lesson by criss-crossing the valley, tapping
into Seven Hills and Loess, Va Piano and Pepper Bridge as well as
Yellow Jacket. Combined results start in the nose with dark
cherry, cedar, herbs, coffee and green peppercorn. Opulent black
cherry and blackberry flavors meld with complementary chocolate
for a juicy and jammy structure.
Northwest Totem
Cellars
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Yakima Valley, 183 cases,
$30
Recommended. The Cab came from Elerding Vineyard, and
there’s a dose of Merlot (5%) from Chandler Reach, too. Combined,
they help produce a sturdy release that’s big on purple fruit,
Belgian chocolate, vanilla, leather and black tea.
Robert Karl
Cellars
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 725 cases,
$29
Outstanding! The Gunselmans don’t feel the need to hurry
their wines, exemplified by leaving this in 95% new oak for 26
months. And the Horse Heaven Hills production, part of it estate,
leads with cherry wood embers, black cherries, chocolate, vanilla
and mocha aromas. Black plum flavors, joined by juicy cherries
and cranberries make this an opulent offering that’s nearly
absent of tannin. Thankfully, they haven’t raised the price, but
they’ve increased production by nearly 50%.
Saint Laurent
Winery
2005 Mrachek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Wahluke
Slope, 508 cases, $28
Outstanding! Winemaker Craig Mitrakul
rounded out the edges of this superb Cabernet Sauvignon with a
bit of Merlot. The resulting wine is stunning with complex aromas
of dark fruit and well-integrated oak, followed by flavors of
perfectly ripe blackberries, black licorice, chocolate, pencil
shavings and oak. Beautifully balanced from beginning to end,
this can be enjoyed now with grilled meats or vegetables.
San
Juan Vineyards
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 398
cases, $20
Outstanding! Some quality fruit from Eastern
Washington — Jones, Alder Creek, Kiona and Kestrel — made the
sweet ferry ride to Friday Harbor. Those grapes turned into juicy
brambleberries and coffee aromas that hit on a lot pleasure
buttons. There’s a richness and boldness to the palate with black
currants and black cherries, and they strike a balance with
tannins and acidity.
Spangler Vineyards
2005 Cabernet
Sauvignon
Southern Oregon, 160 cases, $24
Recommended.
Aromas of blackberries, earth, toast, tar and cedar wave you in
for a closer look. Inside, the structure turns to flavors of pie
cherries, Italian spices and nougat. The lighter style and
youthful tannins should sidle up to a plate of spaghetti and
meatballs. Three years of patience also should be
rewarded.
Spangler Vineyards
2003 Estate Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon
Umpqua Valley, 92 cases, $40
Excellent. Chicago
native Patrick Spangler purchased La Garza Cellars in 2004, and
these barrels were part of the inventory. So, he decided to sit
on them and see what happened. After 46 months in barrel, he
chose to sell them only through the tasting room. The experiment
results in aromas of blackberries, cherry vanilla and leaf
tobacco, followed by flavors of more cherries. It’s a smooth,
medium-bodied wine with a finish of mouth-coating cocoa and
marshmallow flavors.
Stemilt Creek Winery
2004 Cabernet
Sauvignon
Washington, 301 cases, $30
Recommended. This new
Wenatchee, Wash., winery goes Old World on the approach with lots
of red fruit and herbal undertones. Nice cranberries and dusty
cherries are loosely wrapped by leafiness and dill on the
midpalate. Racy acidity should allow this wine to age
gracefully.
’37 Cellars
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 25 cases, $36
Excellent. Two fellows with
a fascination for flat-top guitars made in 1937 by the C.F.
Martin Guitar Co., now collaborate as Leavenworth winemakers. And
talk about a jam session. Frank Dechaine and Chuck Egner sent out
a small release with aromas of black cherries, raspberries
strawberry leaf. Blackberry jam, chocolate, moist earth and
crushed walnuts for the flavor base with assertive tannins in the
finish.
Tildio Winery
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia
Valley, 50 cases, $30
Excellent. This operation by Katy Perry
and her husband in Manson, Wash., works in very small lots, with
this being of average size. They pack quite a punch, though, and
their Cab features bright cherries, red currants, candela leaf
tobacco, chai and young tannins wrapped in chocolate.
Two
Mountain Winery
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Yakima Valley, 380
cases, $25
Outstanding! This third-generation vineyard in the
Rattlesnake Hills is producing top-notch wines, thanks to Matthew
Rawn and his brother Patrick. Big blackberries, blueberries and
juicy cherries are met by a pinch of herbs and expertly
integrated oak. The chocolate drips out of this wine.
Troon
Vineyard
2005 Buren Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Appelgate
Valley, 98 cases, $39
Recommended. At 1,215 feet elevation,
this is one of the lowest vineyards this winery taps into. And
the direction of this Cab heads toward red fruit with strawberry
Laffy Taffy, pie cherries, vanilla extract and talcum powder
notes.
Merlot
Airfield Estates2005 Merlot
Yakima
Valley, 196 cases, $22
Recommended. Winemaker Marcus Miller
has crafted a delicious Merlot from estate vineyards in this new
Prosser, Wash., winery’s first release. It opens with aromas of
rosemary, cherries, black olives and oak, followed by flavors of
chocolate, black cherries, plums, leather and tobacco.
Barnard Griffin Winery
2005 Reserve Merlot
Columbia
Valley, 336 cases, $30
Outstanding! Opulence best describes
this wine from this remarkable Richland, Wash., winery. There’s a
warm, aromatic greeting of black cherries, walnuts, cedar and
alder smoke. The entry is dominated by sweetened canned pie
cherries, dense blackberries and dark chocolate. Its structure is
wrapped around nice acidity and mellow tannins that only peek out
a bit in the finish.
Cascadia Winery
2006 Merlot
Wahluke
Slope, 190 cases, $24
Excellent. Tedd Wildman’s commanding
Stone Tree Vineyard takes center stage in this bottling. Black
cherries, marionberries, crushed walnut, vanilla bean and bit of
charcoal briquette extend an invitation. There’s charisma to this
wine with more cherries and vanilla extract on the attack, joined
by black licorice. It’s not overbearing with its tannin
structure, and this should pair well with a charred burger or a
tomato-based pasta dish.
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2004 Ethos
Merlot
Columbia Valley, 1,200 cases, $38
Recommended. In
2004, Bob Bertheau oversaw the red winemaking for Washington’s
flagship winery for the first time. This reserve-level Merlot
uses grapes from Canoe Ridge Estate in the Horse Heaven Hills and
Indian Wells on the Wahluke Slope. It opens with aromas of sage,
berries and chocolate, followed by flavors of plums,
chocolate-covered cherries and a sweet herbal note. Firm tannins
give this age-worthiness, or pop the cork with a grilled
steak.
Ferraro Cellar
2005 Hillside Vineyard
Merlot
Columbia Valley, 136 cases, $21
Recommended. Dick
Ferraro is a retired government forester, and there are aromas of
cedar and pencil shavings playing out among the sun-dried
tomatoes and red peppercorns. It’s cherries and chocolate on the
tongue, though, with bright acidity and gripping tannins that
will marry well with a grilled porterhouse.
E.B. Foote
Winery
2004 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 451 cases,
$18
Excellent. This lighter-style, zesty and balanced Merlot
from Milbrandt, Graves and Arianses vineyards spent 22 months in
oak, which shows in the nose of vanilla almond tea and horehound
candy, but there’s cherry and straw-berry/rhubarb pie first and
foremost.
Fielding Hills Winery
2005 Merlot
Wahluke
Slope, 199 cases, $36
Recommended. Mike Wade of East
Wenatchee, Wash., ripened up his RiverBend estate grapes into a
hedonistic assortment of plums, Bing cherries, vanilla bean,
hazelnut-flavored coffee and chocolate notes. It’s smooth and
sturdy with more plums in the finish.
Frenchman’s
Gulch
2005 Merlot
Washington, 192 cases, $25
Excellent.
Most of the grapes came from Dwelley in Walla Walla and ended up
in Ketchum, Idaho, at the winery of Steve McCarthy. His
expression with this variety starts with aromas of
brambleberries, freshly laid tar and NECCO Wafer candy. That’s
followed up on the broadly structured palate with blackberries
and dark plums, ample acidity and chocolaty tannins.
Icicle
Ridge Winery
2006 Vintners Reserve Merlot
Washington, 190
cases, $50
Excellent. A photo of proprietor Louis Wagoner’s
1950 Chevy adorns the label, and it’s pretty easy driving through
this bottle of Merlot from Mattawa. Montmorency cherries, toffee,
earthiness, leather, sarsaparilla and ripe plum notes steer into
a creamy smooth structure that’s nearly absent of tannin on the
midpalate. Enjoy this within a couple of years.
L’Ecole No.
41
2005 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 6,082 cases,
$30
Outstanding! This variety has taken a hit the past few
years, but it deserves its place. In fact, Marty Clubb reached
into nine different vineyards and four appellations, but the
effort was worth it. Raspberries, currants, cherries,
marshmallow, a hint of vanilla and a whiff of game tickle the
nose. Then, there’s a mirror of flavors on a full-cherry
midpalate, light and smooth tannins, a wealth of cranberry
acidity and a pleasing finish.
Merry Cellars
2005
Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot
Columbia Valley, 127 cases,
$30
Excellent. Not often is Viognier (3%) or Carménère (2%)
blended with Merlot, but this works well. Patrick Merry’s
production in Pullman, Wash., shows plenty of black cherries,
dark berries and sweet American oak tones. There’s also a nice
black strap molasses sweetness on the entry with a pleasing
rustic structure on the midpalate and some smooth Bing cherries
on the finish.
Northstar
2004 Merlot
Columbia Valley,
10,000 cases, $41
Outstanding! It’s mostly Merlot, but Cab and
Petit Verdot supply additional power in one of the Northwest’s
most famous wines. David Merfeld maintains the tradition that
Napa rock star Jed Steele helped launch and now watches from
afar. Blueberries, black cherries, vanilla, tar and cocoa powder
aromas transcend into a fundamental backbone of blackberries and
juicy raspberries with some crushed leaf character in the
midpalate. The tannins merely impart some traction before a
finish of Green & Black’s dark chocolate.
Robert Karl
Cellars
2005 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 200 cases,
$24
Outstanding! Don’t look sideways at this release of Merlot
(75%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Petit Verdot (10%) and
Malbec. Horse Heaven Hills vineyards produced most of this,
getting support from Verhey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Bright
blackberries, blueberries and plums fill the corners of this
wine, with hints of vanilla and fresh herbs in the background.
Terrific balance, solid tannins and lingering berries in the
finish make this tough to put down.
Saint Laurent
Winery
2005 Mrachek Vineyards Merlot
Wahluke Slope, 772
cases, $19
Recommended. Here’s a nicely priced Merlot that
opens with aromas of of plums, cherries, black pepper and a bit
of oak, followed by straightforward flavors of loganberries and
marionberries.
Vin du Lac of Chelan
2004 Barrel Select
Merlot
Columbia Valley, 220 cases, $28
Excellent. Larry
Lehmbecker went for 100% Merlot from Klingele, Upland and nearby
Christopher vineyards, then he ushered it through 20 months of
predominately new French oak. The telltale signs are in the
graham cracker notes, backed by straightforward and tasty red
currants, sweet cherries and light herbs.
Volcano
Vineyards
2005 Aguila Vineyard Merlot
Rogue Valley, 290
cases, $24
Recommended. This 1,600-feet elevation site near
Ashland, Ore., produced a lighter-style Merlot and the red tone
from a dose of Cab Franc (7%) adds to the lighter cherry,
blueberry and vanilla tones. Its juicy structure should marry
well with marinated flank steak or savory
fare.
Syrah
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2004 Ethos
Syrah
Columbia Valley, 600 cases, $28
Excellent. Winemaker
Bob Bertheau typically has a wide range of grape sources from
which to choose, and he gets very particular for this
reserve-level wine. About 70% of the grapes came from the warm
Wahluke Slope. This opens with aromas of black raspberries and
something that reminded us of Black Forest cake, followed by
flavors of blackberries, plums and black olives. It’s well
balanced with mild tannins.
Graves Cellars
2005
Syrah
Walla Walla Valley, 25 cases, $43
Recommended.
Seattle’s Doug Graves has committed ALL the income from his new
winery to The Breast Cancer Fund in memory of his wife, Debbie,
who died in 2004. He promised to follow through on their dream,
and this is his first commercial wine — a single barrel made from
Morrison Lane and Cougar Crest fruit. And it’s true to the
variety with blackberries, coffee, moist earth, sarsaparilla and
alfalfa. Rich black cherries enrich the midpalate and give way to
cherry cola and strawberries in the farewell. Respectful acidity
should allow this to build some strong memories.
E.B. Foote
Winery
2006 Graves Vineyard Syrah
Columbia Valley, 270
cases, $18
Excellent. Sherrill Miller often prefers to blend,
but the fact that she made a vineyard-designated Syrah hints at
what’s in your glass. Plums, cherries and bacon fat aromas swirl
into flavors of first-crop cherries and juicy purple
blackberries. It’s an honest wine that’s on the come but already
holds great food applications, such as salmon, lamb, braised ribs
or a Southern-style BBQ.
Frenchman’s Gulch
2005
Syrah
Washington, 216 cases, $25
Outstanding! One would
think that Mac McCarthy would charge more for his wines,
considering his winery is in Sun Valley. Well, here’s a Syrah
from Alder Creek in the Horse Heaven Hills that can stand up to
any at twice the price. Scents include raspberries,
first-of-the-season cherries, toaster pastry, cedar and Chinese
Five-Spice. There’s a massive and beautiful fruit entry on the
racy palate with blackberries and boysenberries, proper acidity
and an oak-influenced chocolate finish.
Hip Chicks Do
Wine
2005 Windy Ridge Vineyard Syrah
Columbia Valley, 200
cases, $18.
Excellent. Portland-based chicks Laurie Lewis and
Renee Neely continue to reach into Washington. This trip to the
Horse Heaven Hills brought back a rather decadent drink. Hints of
pomegranate, strawberry candy, cedar and vanilla deliver in full
force on the palate. The rich mouth feel features a spoon of
chocolate pudding and spicy cherries with bright
acidity.
L’Ecole No. 41
2005 Syrah
Columbia Valley,
2,480 cases, $25
Excellent. Many Syrahs made in Walla Walla
are not grown within the valley. Here’s another. Bacchus, Candy
Mountain, Clifton, Pheasant, Stone Tree and Willard were added to
Seven Hills fruit. Together, they produced a juicy blackberry
structure with complex layers of currants, plums, chocolate,
juniper, nutmeg and savory herbs.
Michael Florentino
Cellars
2005 Syrah
Columbia Valley, 29 cases,
$32
Excellent. The proprietor of the new Winemaker’s Loft in
Prosser, Wash., flashes his skills with this hot Rhône variety in
smooth but not ponderous fashion. Black raspberries, bacon,
chocolate, cherries, freshly laid tar and green peppercorns fill
the nose. Big raspberry flavors transition into bright acidity,
light tannins and black cherries on the finish.
Northwest
Totem Cellars
2005 Syrah
Columbia Valley, 185 cases,
$30
Outstanding! Mike Sharadin’s commitment to quality shows
before you open the bottle with his use of the Vino-Lok glass
cork. And this Syrah off Sagemoor starts with aromas of Bing and
Montmorency cherries, sun-dried tomatoes, oregano and thyme. On
the palate, it’s a conversation piece of smooth and juicy black
cherries and brambleberries.
Olympic Cellars Winery
2004
Alder Creek Vineyard Syrah
Horse Heaven Hills, 155 cases,
$25
Recommended. Dark blackberries, blueberries and oak tones
speak loudly throughout this release from Port Angeles, Wash.
Hints of maple syrup, tobacco and mocha add to its pleasing
structure.
Page Cellars
2005 Syrah
Red Mountain, 482
cases, $37
Excellent. Blackberries. Bacon fat. Chocolate cake.
Those are some of the telltale indicators of Northwest Syrah, and
they are found around and inside this Woodinville, Wash., program
that Matt Loso (Matthews Cellars) consults on. There’s also alder
smoke, tar and cola to go along with the huge structure typical
of Klipsun fruit. It’s light on tannin but big on age-worthy
acidity.
Pend d’Oreille Winery
2005 Syrah
Washington,
545 cases, $21
Recommended. Here’s an Idaho winery tapping
into the Columbia Valley for ripe reds. Stephen Meyer drove to
the Willow Crest, Pleasant and Roza vineyards to give him a soft
and supple Syrah with notes of cherry pie, sun-dried tomatoes, a
bit of char, nice minerality and firm tannins.
Saint Laurent
Winery
2005 Mrachek Vineyards Syrah
Wahluke Slope, 772
cases, $22
Recommended. One of the real up-and-coming wineries
in Washington is this small producer near Wenatchee. Most of its
estate grapes are on the warm Wahluke Slope, where this wine
originates. In addition to 97% Syrah, it also blends in a bit of
Viognier and Counoise, two other Rhône grapes. This opens with
aromas of red licorice, black olives and a whisper of pencil
shavings, followed by elegant, focused flavors of red and black
currants.
Saint Laurent Winery
2005 Reserve
Syrah
Wahluke Slope, 276 cases, $40
Recommended. Craig
Mitrakul is one of the emerging young guns in the fast-moving
Washington wine industry. He has some terrific grapes to work
with from estate fruit on the warm Wahluke Slope. This Syrah was
co-fermented with 8% Viogner in the Côte-Rôtie style and opens
with aromas of black cherries, black fruit jam, chocolate, black
pepper and a nice aroma of sweet oak. On the palate are flavors
of black fruit, black currants, blackberries and pencil shavings.
A well-balanced and well-made wine.
Smasne Cellars
2005
Estate Syrah
Yakima Valley, 90 cases, $35
Excellent. The
family vineyard gave Robert Smasne plenty to work with and
express. Hints of boysenberries, black cherries, black pepper,
tar, vanilla and bit of game meat rear up from the glass. The
smooth drink also is true to the variety with cherries and tar,
blackberry jam and plum sauce on the midpalate and a stream of
acidity, then a bit of grip in the finish.
Spring Valley
Vineyard
2005 Nina Lee Estate Syrah
Walla Walla Valley, 343
cases, $50
Excellent. This label is the tribute to Frederick
Cockrum’s beautiful wife, a former vaudeville performer in Walla
Walla. And modern-day vintner Serge Laville left nothing behind
the curtain with this 100% Syrah, exhibiting pleasing oak, sweet
blackberries, balance and boatloads of chocolate as the big
encore.
Thurston Wolfe
2005 Syrah
Columbia Valley, 320
cases, $20
Outstanding! Our 2007 Washington Winery of the Year
continues to impress with this work via vineyards from Andrews
(Horse Heaven Hills) and Burgess (near the Tri-Cities). Its life
surrounded by 15 months on American oak shows with notes of
vanilla and tobacco joining dusty blackberries and a fresh
portabello mushroom. Lively and lovely cherry and raspberry
flavors shine alongside the bright acidity that portends for
longevity.
Tildio Winery
2005 Vina Ladera Vineyard Estate
Syrah
Columbia Valley, 48 cases, $29
Outstanding! This
Chelan County site shows promise, especially with Katy Perry
tending it from bud break to bottle. Black cherries, chocolate,
raspberries, green peppercorns and a hint of coffee awaken the
nose. The sweet entry is juicy with cherry jam, more raspberries
and smooth going down. It can’t get any better than this, so buy
a case — if possible — and enjoy with a tapenade that includes
anchovies.
Troon Vineyards
2005 Steelhead Run Vineyard
Reserve Syrah
Applegate Valley, 150 cases, $39
Excellent.
Ron Burley’s site in southern Oregon allowed winemaker Herb Quady
to create a dark red cherry bomb. Cranberries, spicy cherries and
leather aromas funnel into flavors of cherry jam and strawberry
pie. It’s a bright and rich wine all the way through with
assertive tannins that set the table for a T-bone.
Two
Mountain Winery
2004 Syrah
Yakima Valley, 360 cases,
$22
Outstanding! Matthew Rawn doesn’t seem to rush his wines
to the shelves, and the results show. Distinct aromatics signal
blueberries, sassafras, alfalfa and leaf tobacco. It’s a bite of
blackberries in the mouth with more tobacco, creamy vanilla and
restrained tannins. Lingering acidity runs into finish of Red
Vines licorice.
Volcano Vineyards
2005 Lakeside Vineyard
Syrah
Rogue Valley, 194 cases, $32
Outstanding! Top-flight
Syrahs from Scott Ratcliff in Bend, Ore., is becoming a
tradition. This vineyard-designate near Jacksonville, Ore., is on
the precocious side with youthful, lip-smacking sweet
brambleberries and balanced oak. A dark midpalate leads to a rich
and lingering finish of semi-sweet chocolate that brings you
back. The Ratcliffs, who have a background in fine cuisine,
suggest pairing this with pulled pork or salty and bitter foods
such as greens, olives, lemons, eggplant and
asparagus.
Malbec
Eleven Winery
2005 Windy Ridge
Vineyard Malbec
Horse Heaven Hills, 121 cases,
$27
Excellent. Matt Albee’s garagiste project on Bainbridge
Island, Wash., is serious, evidenced by the quality of the fruit
and his skill. A jazzy red fruit nose includes fresh alfalfa,
baking spice and the Hershey’s Milk Chocolate with Almonds bar
shows off the 18 months in French and Hungarian oak. It’s big and
juicy on the approach with raspberries, canned plums with heavy
syrup, chocolaty tannins and Rainier cherries in the finish.
Gamache Vintners
2005 Malbec
Columbia Valley, 170
cases, $28
Recommended. Malbec, one of the five standard red
grapes of Bordeaux, is catching on as a single-variety bottling
in Washington as vintners explore different opportunities. These
grapes were grown on the Gamache brothers’ vineyard near Basin
City, Wash. This young wine is still fairly tightly wound but is
beginning to reveal itself. It opens with aromas of blackberries,
chocolate, oak and leather, followed by dense flavors of black
currants, black pepper, plums and dark chocolate. It’s a big wine
with plenty of length.
Indian Creek Winery
2006 Wood River
Vineyards Malbec
Snake River Valley, 125 cases,
$21
Recommended. Mike McClure has taken over most of the
winemaking decisions at Bill Stowe’s winery, and this is 100% of
the variety. It’s amazingly expressive and easy drinking with
black fruit, smoky bacon, cooked beans, ginger, cinnamon and
pumpkin spice aromas and flavors. Enjoy with meatloaf, stuffed
green peppers or elk.
Michael Florentino Cellars
2005
Malbec
Columbia Valley, 29 cases, $38
Recommended. This
Bordeaux blender continues to be seen under the starring role
rather than always in the background. A new winery in Prosser,
Wash., sends out a supremely ripe version revolving around notes
of blackberry cobbler, plums, cherries, vanilla, tobacco and milk
chocolate. In a few years, the tannins should be in perfect
step.
Red blends
Arcane Cellars
2005 Wheatland Red
Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah
Columbia Valley, 1,280 cases,
$18
Recommended. Legally, it could stand alone labeled as
Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), and there’s a significant Rhône regime
with Syrah (18%), Mourvèdre (2%) and Cinsault (2%). Plums,
pomegranates, cherry extract and chocolate cake notes gain a
footing amid bright acidity and assertive tannins in the
finish.
E.B. Foote Winery
2005 Perfect a Trois
Columbia
Valley, 243 cases, $25
Excellent. Sherrill Miller updated her
label, but she didn’t mess with the success that she’s had with
this blend of Cab Sauv (60%), Merlot (30%) and Cab Franc. The
fruit from Milbrandt, Graves and Arianses vineyards formed
aromatics of black currants, pie cherries, plums, chocolate,
black walnuts and cedar. Blueberries, juicy cherries and pleasing
acidity, rather than tannin, dominate the palate.
E.B. Foote
Winery
Rainy Day Red IV
Columbia Valley, 219 cases,
$18
Outstanding! Thanks to the Cascade rain shawdow, vineyards
such as Milbrandt and Graves grow the grapes to help Puget Sound
folks deal with the pain of rain. Sherrill Miller took the Syrah
(81%) and Cab (19%) back to her Burien, Wash., winery and out
came this very woodsy, bright and sunny wine. It’s not a
brambleberry blockbuster akin to many Syrahs, instead there’s
ripe cherry and currant density to the sweet approach and
sweeping midpalate.
Fielding Hills Winery
2005 RiverBend
Red
Wahluke Slope, 145 cases, $32
Excellent. This
proprietary blend of Cab Sauv (46%), Merlot (42%), Syrah (11%)
and Cab Franc (1%) comes from the estate vineyard by the same
name. Boysenberry and cherry jam, pomegranate, cedar, chalkboard
dust and chocolate only begin to describe the nose. That
berry/cherry jam follows through on the bright flavors with
welcoming and chocolaty tannins. Good acidity portends a long
life ahead. Or enjoy now with pulled pork or a New York
steak.
Forgeron Cellars
NV Walldeaux Smithie Red
Wine
Columbia Valley, 710 cases, $16
Excellent. It’s tough
to find a wine made in Walla Walla at this price, so Marie Eve
Gilla deserves a tip of your beret. Sites such as Alder Ridge,
Ash Hollow, Boushey, Klipsun and Pepper Bridge contributed Merlot
(55%), Cab Sauv (24%), Syrah (11%), Zinfandel (7%) and Cab Franc
for a dizzying assortment of descriptors such as strawberries,
cherries, vanilla, rose hips, boysenberries, blackberries and
marionberries, leading to a finish of bittersweet chocolate. The
berrylike acidity and tannin structure should keep this pounding
away for several years.
Frenchman’s Gulch
2005 Ketchum
Cuvée
Washington, 550 cases, $20
Outstanding! Sun Valley’s
Steve McCarthy shines again with this blend of Cab Sauv (52%)
from Alder Creek and Matador, Merlot (28%) from Dwelley and Cab
Franc from Chandler Reach. It leads off with cordial cherries,
cedar, pencil shavings, a chip of slate and a pinch of earth.
It’s all chocolate, cherries and tar from the lips to the throat,
carried with tremendous balance.
Gamache Vintners
2005
Boulder Red
Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $18
Recommended.
This gentle blend leads with Cabernet Franc (50%), followed by
Merlot (25%), Malbec (15%) and fleshed out by Syrah (10%). It
produced aromas of black cherries, pomegranate, toasted oak,
earthiness and a bit of citrus, followed by an entry of black
currant jam and more pomegranates and a midpalate of sour cherry
candy with pleasing acidity.
Icicle Ridge Winery
2005
Romanze Blend
Washington, 300 cases, $33
Outstanding!
Estate fruit from his father-in-law’s vineyard allows Don Wood to
lead with Merlot (50%) on this blend with Lemberger (30%) and
Cabernet Franc. Plums, sweetened cherries, spice and fresh-mowed
hay are mirrored in mouth of this fruit-forward, Chianti-like
drink, along with clove and cinnamon. It’s the great acidity, not
the tannins, that grab your attention.
L’Ecole No. 41
2005
Pepper Bridge Vineyard Apogee
Walla Walla Valley, 1,747 cases,
$50
Excellent. As the story goes, this proprietary blend was
the first wine to emerge out of this famed site. Marty Clubb
comes to expect bold tones from these grapes, and the mix of
Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (45%), Malbec (7%) and Cab Franc
delivers boysenberries, black raspberries and coffee in the
aromas and flavors. Youthful tannins nip a bit, but the chocolate
finish tames them, and the berry acidity adds
ageability.
L’Ecole No. 41
2005 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate
Perigee
Walla Walla Valley, 1,594 cases, $50
Excellent.
Marty Clubb doesn’t discourage the earthy terroir of this famed
vineyard’s oldest blocks in this premium bottling of Cab Sauv
(56%), Merlot (36%) and Cab Franc. And the red fruit shines from
beginning to end, starting with unripe strawberries,
lingonberries and crushed leaf aromas. On the palate is where the
earth moves with cranberry sauce and blueberries flavors that
show their stuff to the end. Acidity outworks the tannins, and
there’s lots of chocolate in the finish.
Lone Canary
Winery
2004 DuBrul Vineyard Reserve
Yakima Valley, 195
cases, $35
Outstanding! One of Washington’s unsung wineries
produces a stunning blend from one of the state’s most underrated
vineyards. Mike Scott in Spokane backed Merlot (62%) with
Cabernet Sauvignon (38%) for a wine that leads with black
raspberry, cherry cola, cassis, Douglas fir and Green & Black’s
chocolate aromas. Cassis carries into the attack with more
raspberries where the balance is dead-on. It’s so smooth, this
red wine could pair with a fish fillet.
Lost River
Winery
2005 Cedarosa
Columbia Valley, 225 cases,
$25
Recommended. It’s not easy to get to the Methow Valley in
the winter, but this wine makes it worth the trip. John Morgan’s
blend of Merlot (55%) and Cab Franc turned out an amazing nose of
blueberries, dusty cherries, teriyaki, slate, charcoal, chocolate
and eucalyptus. There are even more blueberries on the palate,
joined by nice underlying tart cherries that provide acid balance
to the tugging tannins.
Nicholas Cole Cellars
2004
Camille
Columbia Valley, 2,100 cases, $48
Excellent. Mike
Neuffer builds his wines for the long haul, but this looks lovely
already. An ode of Merlot (63%) to his maternal grandmother,
Canoe Ridge, Champoux, Klipsun and the Neuffer estate vineyards
bring blackberry, green peppercorns, fresh-picked portabello
mushrooms and toasted oak to the senses. The drink is of Oregon
blackberries, cherry syrup and complex chocolate notes, and the
reduced tannins make this a star with women who love red wine and
chocolate.
Nicholas Cole Cellars
2005 GraEagle Red
Wing
Columbia Valley, 916 cases, $25
Recommended. Red toned
and youthful best describes this Bordeaux blend of Cab Sauv
(39%), Merlot (28%), Cab Franc (18%) and Petit Verdot. Black
cherries, Sweethearts candy, malted milk chocolate and alfalfa
aromas are met by cassis, cranberries and a nice stream of
acidity, silenced tannins and more milk chocolate in the finish.
Leave this alone for 2-3 years and share with your
Valentine.
Nicholas Cole Cellars
2005 Michele
Walla
Walla Valley, 802 cases, $55
Recommended. Vineyard sourcing
from Canoe Ridge, Champoux, Klipsun and Neuffer explains how this
blend of Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot got its
structure. Power points include a dark and lovely mix of
cherries, blackberries, Hershey’s chocolate syrup and wet stone
notes. The amazing vintage indicates this massive wine will turn
graceful, so the winery is using the release of this bottling to
christen its downtown tasting room on April 28 — which is the day
Michele Cole turns 16.
Northwest Totem Cellars
2005 Low Man
Red
Columbia Valley, 150 cases, $30
Excellent. There’s a
new kid on the block in the growing neighborhood of Woodinville,
Wash., and Mike Sharadin shows he’s serious with this Bordeaux
blend of Cab Sauv (57%), Merlot (29%) and Cab Franc by storing it
in 65% new French oak. Black cherries and black licorice aromas
include lemongrass tea, apple mint jelly and a hint of patchouli.
Opulent and smooth only begin to describe the palate, which
features enormous cherry and brambleberry fruit.
Northwest
Totem Cellars
2005 Qu-ne
Columbia Valley, 37 cases,
$30
Excellent. This new Woodinville, Wash., winery quickly
went through this blend based on Cabernet Franc (80%) and fleshed
out with Cab Sauv (10%) and Syrah. Sweet pie cherries and root
beer notes add to the juicy jammy dark fruit structure of this
balanced wine.
Page Cellars
2004 Limited Edition
Red
Mountain, 86 cases, $50
Outstanding! The power of Red Mountain
and Shaw Vineyards is on display with this blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon (47%), Cab Franc (47%) and Merlot. Jim Page in
Woodinville, Wash., accented the pie cherry, rose hip and cedar
aromas with French oak barrel notes of chocolate-covered orange
slices, graham cracker, tar and vanilla. The initial sip brings a
bite of Chukar Cherry dried Montmorency cherries, then the palate
smoothes out with S’mores and boysenberry juice. Judging by the
AVA, there’s even more to it down the road.
Pheasant Valley
Winery
NV River City Red
American, 450 cases,
$19
Excellent. This blend of Merlot, Syrah, Malbec and
Zinfandel uses grapes from both sides of the Columbia River, thus
the “American” designation. This Hood River, Ore., producer is
making many fine wines, and this is no exception. It opens with
aromas of black olives, raspberries, lingonberries and dark
chocolate, followed by flavors loaded with cherries. The fruit
really jumps out of the glass and is backed up with plush
tannins.
Pleasant Hill Winery
2005 Donatella
Columbia
Valley, 85 cases, $26
Excellent. Larry Lindvig leads with
Sangiovese (37%) from Snipes Canyon in this blend of Cab Sauv
(25%) and Merlot (25%) off Elephant Mountain and Petit Verdot
(13%) via Gilbert Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. The Italian
herbs in the nose and red fruit, bold acid focus of Montmorency
and pie cherries show off the Sangio. In the back end, there’s
chocolate and black licorice.
Pleasant Hill Winery
2005
Renaissance
Columbia Valley, 92 cases, $28
Outstanding!
Blending baron Larry Lindvig has co-leaders on this uniquely
Northwest release with Lemberger (37%) and Syrah (37%) sharing
the top billing, followed by Petit Verdot (12%) and Sangiovese
(12%). Carter Vineyard gets credit for the Lem, and Gilbert
kicked in the Syrah and PV. Chukar Cherries and a whiff of fresh
herbs continue into a drink that’s far from bashful. The
chocolate and cherries drip into the finish.
Pleasant Hill
Winery
2005 Tango Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 70 cases,
$24
Excellent. Larry Lindvig in rural Carnation continues to
show himself to be one of the finest boutique red winemakers in
Washington. And the sources prove it. He takes small lots of
Malbec from Snipes Canyon and Destiny Ridge, combined with Cab
Sauv (16%) from Elephant Mountain, and turns them into an array
of jammy blackberries and blueberries, black pepper, leaf tobacco
and cocoa powder. It’s juicy, smooth and lingering with
approachable tannins.
Pleasant Hill Winery
2005 Ultimo
Grande
Columbia Valley, 92 cases, $25
Outstanding! This
quarter-split blend by Larry Lindvig of Cab Sauv and Merlot from
Elephant Mountain, Malbec (Gilbert) and Tempranillo (Destiny
Ridge) is mucho grande with black raspberries, chocolate and
cedar aromatics. Wonderful juicy cherry flavors include ripe
blackberry and rosemary notes. The tannins are balanced with
licorice sweeping the palate clean in the finish.
Robert Karl
Cellars
2004 Inspiration Reserve Red Wine
Columbia Valley,
100 cases, $45
Excellent. Spokane’s Dr. Joe Gunselman builds a
deeper devotion to the Horse Heaven Hills with his flagship
Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (38%), Petit Verdot (20%),
Merlot (17%), Malbec (13%) and Cabernet Franc (12%) from Andrews,
Gunselman Bench, McKinley Springs and Phinny Hill fruit. New
French oak barrels for 26 months show with cocoa powder, vanilla
and coffee notes running along spicy cherries and blueberry jam.
There’s tremendous balance as the density of the fruit matches
that of the tannins.
Saviah Cellars
2005 Big Sky
Cuvée
Columbia Valley, 469 cases, $35
Outstanding! Richard
Funk has been maddeningly consistent with one remarkable wine
after another being produced from his Walla Walla, Wash., winery.
This Bordeaux-style blend is heavy on Merlot (57%) and Cabernet
Sauvignon (24%) with Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot rounding
out the wine. He relies on two top vineyards: Stillwater Creek
and Champoux, which practically guarantees success. The wine is
loaded with aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, followed by
flavors that reminded us of ripe blackberries warmed on an August
Seattle day. It also has notes of blueberries, cherries and a
sprinkling of cocoa powder. It’s beautifully balanced — about
what we expect from Saviah.
Smasne Cellars
2003 Bunk House
Red
Yakima Valley, 80 cases, $50
Outstanding! Robert Smasne
invested 35 months of French oak barreling on this Bordeaux blend
that leads — in atypical fashion — with Malbec (48%), followed by
Merlot (44%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet oak, blackberry,
chocolate and citrus notes set the table for an easy entry of
intense blackberry jam and cherry flavors. Get ready for a
booming midpalate and a finish of pie cherries. The structure of
tannin and tartness bodes well for the future.
Tildio
Winery
2005 Profundo
Wahluke Slope, 50 cases,
$35
Outstanding! An assemblage by Manson, Wash., winemaker
Katy Perry ended up with a winning formula from RiverBend and
Weinbau of Cab Sauv (35%), Merlot (30%), Malbec (20%), Cab Franc
(10%) and Petit Verdot. The great equalizer was 22 months in
French oak. There’s a cheery greeting from cherries, cola and
crushed leaf. Silky chocolate and cherry flavors include vanilla
bean. Balanced tannins and nice acidity make it quaffable and
cellar worthy.
Tildio Winery
2005 SBW
Columbia Valley,
124 cases, $22
Excellent. The abbreviation stands for Sagemoor
(10%), Bacchus (10%) and Weinbau (80%), three venerable vineyards
near the Hanford Reach. Their contribution of Cab Sauv and Merlot
spent 20 months in French oak at this Manson, Wash., winery, and
what emerged is a brightly polished product. Cherry cola, bacon,
tar, earth and hint of blackberries speak volumes in a big and
juicy tone. There’s a touch of tart citrus in the finish, and
tannins add some traction.
Zefina
2003 Serience
Red
Horse Heaven Hills, 875 cases, $30
Excellent. The
winery president, Ken McCabe, is the sheriff of Seattle’s Rhône
Ranger event, and here’s a blend he’d be proud to pour with Syrah
(35%), Grenache (30%), Mourvèdre (17%), Counoise (13%) and
Cinsault from estate Alder Ridge. There are blackberries, tobacco
leaf, roasted coffee and buckwheat honey on the outside with
delicious dense blackberry and marionberry flavors on the inside.
It’s a bold wine with a solid structure and good length.
Zenas
Wines
2005 White Horse Blend
Del Rio Vineyards
Claret
Rogue Valley, 180 cases, $33
Excellent. This
family’s roots are dug both into Southern Oregon’s Applegate
Valley and Washington’s Yakima Valley, but these wines are made
in the Willamette Valley town of Carlton from famed Rogue grapes.
It’s focused on sweet fruit with huckleberries and cream, bright
cherries and bit of sage. A “Right Bank” blend of Cab Franc (60%)
and Merlot (40%) is tilted toward acidity rather than tannin,
making it a bit one dimensional, but that dimension is mighty
nice.
Other reds
Cathedral Ridge Winery
2006
Zinfandel
Columbia Valley, 381 cases, $24
Recommended.
Hillside and Lonnie Wright Vineyards provided the fruit for
Michael Sebastiani’s project in Hood River, Ore., and this is
unlike most California Zins because of its broad food
applications, tart acidity and comparatively low alcohol (13.6%).
Red fruit, red bell peppers and cherry tomatoes dominate the
structure. For easy springtime enjoyment, grill up an ol’
fashioned homemade hamburger.
Colvin Vineyards
2005 Chelle
den Pleasant Cabernet Franc
Columbia Valley, 125 cases,
$24
Excellent. Mark Colvin announced on his Web site that 2005
is his historic winery’s “farewell vintage.” Here is one of the
two final releases from the Walla Walla trailblazer who put
Carménère on the map. A theme of blueberries and cream swirls
throughout this vineyard-designate out of Prosser, Wash. It’s
hedonistically smooth, delicious and a quaffer that also could be
enjoyed with grilled venison and portabello mushrooms.
Ferraro
Cellar
2005 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel
Columbia
Valley, 30 cases, $21
Excellent. This intimate family
operation in Beaverton, Ore., buys from respected growers on the
Columbia River and turns out impressive wines at modest prices.
Dick Ferraro made this release from Gunkel vines near Maryhill,
Wash. Fresh strawberry, chocolate and woodsy aromatics turn to
dark rich fruit on the palate leading with dense wild cherries
and sturdy tannins.
Michael Florentino Cellars
2005
Tempranillo
Columbia Valley, 26 cases, $30
Outstanding!
Success with this sturdy Spanish variety upon this winery’s
inaugural release will garner attention for Prosser vintner
Michael Haddox. Blueberry and raspberry aromas are wrapped around
inviting sweet mocha and milk chocolate. The berries turn into
jam in the mouth, met by a smooth balance and lingering berry
finish.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery
2005 Barrel Select
Sangiovese
Yakima Valley, 488 cases, $16
Excellent.
Berries, cherries, nice dark oak and patchouli notes fill the
nose of this Sangiovese. The flavors are filled with black fruit
and dark chocolate with a nice embrace from tannins.
Northwest Totem Cellars
2005 Cabernet Franc
Columbia
Valley, 50 cases, $30
Outstanding! The Bacchus block at
Sagemoor produced this outpouring that’s high on Dr Pepper and
more than 21 other descriptors. Also amid the aromas are
blackberries, cinnamon and cloves. Juicy blackberries, canned
plums and delicious piquant acidity with terrific balance are
hallmarks of this red.
Pheasant Valley Winery
2006 Chukar
Ridge Tempranillo
Columbia Valley, 150 cases,
$28
Excellent. This Hood River, Ore., winery is producing some
delicious wines. Tempranillo, a Spanish grape, still is
relatively unknown in the Northwest, especially along the
Columbia River. Yet here is a superb example with a really young
wine. This opens with yummy aromas of marionberries, ripe plums,
black pepper and chocolate. A fairly big entry leads to robust
flavors of strawberries, red currants and milk
chocolate.
Tildio Winery
2005 Cabernet Franc
Wahluke
Slope, 25 cases, $35
Recommended. It is rare to see the price
per bottle exceed the case production number, but here’s the
equivalent of one barrel. Attributes include rich black cherry,
cola, chocolate mint and molasses, which are delivered
well.
Two Mountain Winery
2004 Reserve Cabernet
Franc
Yakima Valley, 110 cases, $30
Excellent. The Rawn
brothers in Zillah, Wash., don’t always produce a Cab Franc, but
they chose wisely to do so this time. A fine fellowship of
red-toned fruit — raspberries, strawberries and pie cherries —
includes lilac and blueberries aromas. Razzy fruit, blueberries
and toasted oak christen the palate. There’s a juiciness and
density to the structure that leans away from tannin as you move
through it.
Zefina
2004 Sangiovese
Horse Heaven Hills,
350 cases, $25
Excellent. It’s 100% Sangio from Alder Ridge,
and inside rests the food-friendly acidity one would expect from
this Italian grape. Inviting raspberry, Rainier cherries and
green peppercorn notes lead into dark cherry, plum and blueberry
flavors. Smooth tannins and nice acidity make this age-worthy for
the next five years.
Zefina
2003 Zinfandel
Columbia
Valley, 475 cases, $25
Recommended. Cherry cola, strawberry
fruit leather and soft sweet plums swirl around decent acidity
and easy tannins to make this a wine worthy of conversation or a
lamb kebab.
White
Chardonnay
Airfield Estates
2006
Chardonnay
Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $20
Recommended. Those
who enjoy oaky Chardonnay will love this. Other features focus on
lemon and butterscotch, and its structure leans toward steeliness
rather than creaminess.
Arcane Cellars
2006 Wheatland
Chardonnay
Rogue Valley, 420 cases, $16
Recommended. This
Salem, Ore., operation went south for a rather fascinating
expression of Chardonnay with aromas of apples, dandelion leaves
and roasting marshmallows. It’s rich and buttery on the palate
with baked apples and zesty lemon throughout.
Buty
Winery
2006 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay
Columbia Valley,
563 cases, $35
Excellent. Caleb Foster’s block in this famed
vineyard on Radar Hill near Othello, Wash., was planted in 1989,
and the fruit is hitting its stride. Mature oak shows amid the
pleasing aromas of dusty apple, pear, coconut milk and toast.
There’s a bit of oak on the entry, but also a rich delivery of
tropical fruit and more toast on the midpalate. Then, it finishes
with a wham of citrus. The Fosters predict this wine will reach
its zenith during the next two to three years.
Cascadia
Winery
2006 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 260 cases,
$15
Recommended. Fruit from Ryan Patrick Vineyard’s Homestead
Vineyard in Quincy, Wash., contributes a quaffable combination of
honeydew melon, apples, peaches and apples. Plenty of acidity and
just a breath of French oak make this favorable for
seafood.
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2006 Chardonnay
Columbia
Valley, 396,825 cases, $16
Outstanding! Bob Bertheau’s view
from Woodinville is lighter on new oak, but there’s still a fair
amount of toast in the nose, along with lemon, saffron, candy
corn and apple box aromas. It’s more lemon juice on the structure
with nice vanilla and fig jam in the midpalate, where citrusy
acidity stretches out into some flint in the finish. Enjoy with
linguine in clam sauce.
Columbia Crest
2005 Reserve
Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 600 cases, $25
Recommended.
Hand-picked estate fruit from the Horse Heaven Hills, close
attention from Ray Einberger and Keith Kenison, and 14 months of
weekly hand-stirring inside new oak barrels result in this rich
invitation to Hotel California. Pineapple, citrus blossom, a hint
of apricot, mineral and toasted oak aromas blend into flavors of
apples and more tropical fruit. Pleasing acidity gives way to a
finish of butterscotch candy. Enjoy with crabcakes or try with
popcorn.
Coeur d’Alene Cellars
2006
Chardonnay
Washington, 330 cases, $18
Recommended. Opulent
oak, all of it French, is the hallmark of this blend crafted in
Idaho from Columbia Valley sites Stillwater Creek and Lonesome
Springs. Fresh apples and pears are met by butterscotch notes
that float on the midpalate. The fascinating finish features
lemon zest, a hint of basil and some anise.
Dakota Creek
Winery
2006 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 150 cases,
$17
Excellent. Ken Peck sourced hand-picked fruit from Cave B
Vineyard — the plot that borders the Gorge at George parking lot.
The bottles he sends out from his border town winery in Blaine,
Wash., feature long-lasting and lively notes of Granny Smith
apples, zesty citrus and gooseberries. There are oak notes, but
Peck avoided malolactic fermentation to preserve that crisp
structure.
Domaine de Chaberton Estate Winery
2006 Barrel
Reserve Chardonnay
British Columbia, 497 cases, $20
CDN
Outstanding! Elias Phiniotis' program of aging — nine
months split between American and new French barrels — produced
an exotic array of descriptors. Classic butterscotch aromas are
joined by fuzzy apricots, a bit of banana, freshly sliced peach
and apple pie. Amazing creaminess awaits, with more apricots and
peach with bright acidity popping in the finish. Its quaffable
structure continues to call you back.
El Mirador Wines
2006
Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 425 cases, $19
Excellent. Joe
Donnow obviously does know how to craft a delicious,
food-friendly Chardonnay using Cave B fruit at his Walla Walla
winery. Pleasing perfuminess begins with citrus notes, jicama,
shaved coconut, a whiff of smoke and Thompson seedless aromas.
Inside, it’s all about crisp acidity with tart lime and yellow
grapefruit, then an undertone of pears and herbs. Enjoy this with
fish dressed in a lemon caper sauce.
Frenchman’s Gulch
2006
Chardonnay
Washington, 600 cases, $14
Excellent. Steve
McCarthy might be tempted to walk the oak plank in Ketchum,
Idaho, considering refugees of California have taken over Sun
Valley. However, he chose the path of balance with Charles
Smasne’s fruit. First are enchanting aromas of lemon meringue
pie, peaches, apple blossoms and toasted filberts. Apples,
grapefruit and candy corn flavors are carried forth by a big
blast of acidity, then finished on the dry side.
L’Ecole No.
41
2006 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 3,939 cases,
$22
Outstanding! If this is your greeting upon arriving home,
then the day won’t be all that bad. It’s unmistakable Chardonnay
with inviting oak, a hint of lemon and some grapefruit in the
aromas. Rich and buttery is the entry with apples and pineapples
taking over in the mouth-coating midpalate. There’s a tinge of
oak at the beginning, but it’s not overdone.
Mount Baker
Vineyards
2006 Barrel Select Chardonnay
Yakima Valley, 581
cases, $13
Excellent. Now in its 26th year of operation, this
winery and vineyard east of Bellingham, Wash., uses grapes from
the Yakima Valley for many of its wines. This luscious Chardonnay
opens with aromas of minerals, oranges, pineapples and tropical
fruits, followed by round, pleasant flavors of minerals and
citrus with a note of apple peel on the finish.
Phelps Creek
Vineyards
2006 Reserve Chardonnay
Columbia Gorge, 125
cases, $22
Recommended. Bob Morus moved to Hood River, Ore.,
nearly 20 years ago to begin growing wine grapes in the Columbia
Gorge. Today, the estate vineyards for Phelps Creek include 20
acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — with more on the way.
Winemaker Rich Cushman crafted this reserve-level Chardonnay,
which shows off aromas of white pepper, sweet herbs and a whisper
of orange. On the palate are flavors of pineapples, green apples
and oak. Bright acidity makes this a good bet with salmon or
halibut.
Plowbuster
2006 Unoaked Chardonnay
Willamette
Valley, 600 cases, $18
Outstanding! There were no oak trees
busted in the making of this Chardonnay, a second label for
Carabella. Stainless steel allows all sorts of tropical fruits to
filter out, such as papaya and mango. There’s casaba melon as
well as notes of buttered popcorn and facial powder. Fruit
flavors follow those aromas inside a rich, buttery profile that’s
braced by tons of acidity.
Ponzi Vineyards
2005 Reserve
Chardonnay
Willamette Valley, 328 cases, $30
Recommended.
Estate fruit off Aurora Vineyard in the Chehalem Mountain
appellation produced inviting fruit salad and drawn butter
aromas. There’s more butter on the palate with baked apples,
pears and nice minerality.
Waterbrook Winery
2006 Reserve
Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 1,955 cases, $22
Recommended.
John Freeman is not reserved in the use of oak, and there’s
plenty of clarified butter and butterscotch notes. Yet, there’s
fruit in there, too, with pineapple and citrus on the palate for
a crisp rather than creamy finish.
San Juan Vineyards
2006
Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 599 cases, $15
Outstanding!
This vintage marked the beginning for Chris Primus, whose
remarkable work has raised the profile of this Puget Sound
winery. Think of sniffing a bowl of fruit salad with oranges,
pineapple, pear and mango, but there’s also facial powder and
white pepper for complexity. The product of Kestrel View grapes
in the Yakima Valley is easy to drink with lemon/lime, Orange
Julius and passion fruit flavors. Faithful acidity should endear
a glass of this with a platter of scallops served Coquilles St.
Jacques.
Riesling
Cascadia Winery
2006
Riesling
Columbia Valley, 240 cases, $16
Excellent. Alan
Yanagimachi’s breadth of experience in the industry spans from a
classic education to research to retail to restaurants and
ultimately to making wine at his own place in Peshastin, Wash.
This Riesling from Milbrandt holdings in Quincy has the classic
orchard fruit with pineapple notes and shows sweetness (1.9%
residual sugar), but a nice bit of tartness in the finish
balances it for food or quick quaffing.
Vin du Lac of
Chelan
2006 Michaela’s Vineyards Estate Dry Riesling
Chelan
County, 200 cases, $20
Recommended. Zippy acidity is the
hallmark of this bright white from Lake Chelan, and there is nice
fruit around it. Notes feature Golden Delicious apples, pears,
sweet herbs, minerality and sweetened lemon. Its bone-dry finish
will pair quite nicely with shrimp in a cream sauce or Fettucine
Alfredo.
Waterbrook Winery
2006 Riesling
Columbia
Valley, 2,284 cases, $12
Outstanding! Exotic and beautiful as
an island princess begins to describe this slightly off-dry drink
(2.1% residual sugar). Pineapple, papaya, lemon, apricot, apple
and vanilla bean form much of the aromas. She’s not shy on the
lips as delicious pineapple permeates the palate, backed by more
orchard fruit, lychee and lemony acidity to balance that sweet
disposition.
Pinot Gris
Airfield Estates
2006 Pinot
Gris
Yakima Valley, 230 cases, $16
Recommended. Aromas of
Juicy Fruit and fragrant pears turn into inviting flavors of
sweet citrus fruit, Golden Delicious apples and a drop of
blueberry in the midpalate. There’s a remarkable sendoff of
watermelon and tangerine.
Capitello Wines
2006 Pinot
Gris
Willamette Valley, 600 cases, $18
Recommended. Ray
Walsh, a Kiwi now living in the Eugene, Ore., area, makes wines
with his son, Desmond. The pair focus on Oregon wines, though
they couldn’t resist producing a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
This Pinot Gris opens with aromas of pears, tropical fruit and a
whiff of oak, followed by flavors of mangos and lemons.
Eleven
Winery
2006 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 111 cases,
$17
Recommended. This Bainbridge Island, Wash., winery grabbed
Oregon fruit and put it through a neutral barrel regimen. The
results center on tropical and citrus notes with some pleasing
grassiness, fresh corn and a finish of a twisted
lemon.
Firesteed Cellars
2005 Pinot Gris
Oregon, 7,000
cases, $12
Excellent. Yellow grapefruit, a bit of spice,
butteriness and pineapple aromas carry over into a round, lush
and tasty entry of tangerines and oranges. The intriguing
midpalate includes a slice of Red Delicious apple that leads into
creaminess on the finish, perhaps a sign of aging in both
stainless steel and barrel.
King Estate
2006 Domaine Pinot
Gris
Oregon, 5,144 cases, $25
Outstanding! It’s 100%
organic, and it’s all good. Interestingly, harvest for this fruit
ended Oct. 11, which is the date they began harvest in 2005.
Orange Creamsicle aromas are joined by fresh-cut pineapple, Fuji
apple, facial powder and mineral notes. Delicious big citrus and
tropical notes load up in the mouth with acidity creating a great
length. Consider serving this alongside cod with a white cream
sauce.
Mount Baker Vineyards
2006 Pinot Gris
Yakima
Valley, 468 cases, $13
Outstanding! Pinot Gris tends to be an
Oregon thing, with more than 300,000 cases being produced. But
Washington and British Columbia are finding good locations to
grow the Alsatian grape, and the somewhat cooler Yakima Valley is
one of them. This opens with gorgeous aromas of jasmine, oranges,
pineapples and stone fruit, followed by round, rich flavors of
oranges, lemons and crisp apples. It’s a vivacious wine with
ample acidity.
Ponzi Vineyards
2006 Pinot
Gris
Willamette Valley, 6,845 cases, $17
Excellent. Only
certified sustainable sources — seven in total — were used in
this release that’s one of the Oregon’s largest and most
well-received. Notes of baked pear, lemon, fresh-squeezed orange
juice and apple peel follow through to the palate along with
sweet pineapple and bracing acidity.
Vin du Lac of
Chelan
2006 Grisant! Pinot Gris
Columbia Valley, 291 cases,
$18
Excellent. Some nearby fruit from Cherie’s Vineyard in
Chelan went in with grapes from Upland Vineyard in Sunnyside for
this easy drinking and snappy Pinot Gris. Apples and pears are
joined by pleasing notes of lanolin from the extended lees
contact, and it is finished with zippy acidity.
Winter’s Hill
Vineyard
2006 Pinot Gris
Dundee Hills, 1,306 cases,
$18
Excellent. The Gladharts dropped 20% of their estate Gris
in August of this vintage to produce an aroma and flavor profile
that’s focused on orchard fruit of pears and apples in a dry
style. However, there are tropical notes of pineapple and
grapefruit-like acidity for more
complexity.
Gewürztraminer
Parma Ridge Vineyards
2006
Dry Gewürztraminer
Snake River Valley, 62 cases,
$13
Outstanding! Dick Dickstein flew into Idaho on the wings
of retirement, but he’s certainly not standing still and excels
with his white program. Aromas of Juicy Fruit gum, lemons, lime,
Asian pear and orange zest offer much of the same on the palate.
It’s done in a dry Germanic style with mineral and citrus as the
focus. The citrus pith will play well alongside a variety of
foods.
Phelps Creek Vineyards
2006 Oak Ridge Vineyard
Gewürztraminer
Columbia Gorge, 152 cases, $16
Outstanding!
On the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge appellation, Celilo
Vineyard tends to get much of the ink. But we’re also seeing a
number of wineries producing single-vineyard bottlings from Oak
Ridge Vineyard, especially for its yummy Gewürztraminer. This
wine opens with aromas of minerals, apples, oranges, cardamom,
apricots and honeysuckle, followed by bright, impressive flavors
of rosewater, oranges, limes and sweet lemons. It has all the
acidity one could hope for in this variety, giving it great
balance to go with roasted turkey, grilled chicken or pasta
tossed with olive oil.
Smasne Cellars
2006 Smasne Vineyard
Estate
Dry Gewürztraminer
Yakima Valley, 124 cases,
$22
Recommended. The family name is new on the label, but it’s
been behind the scenes as growers for decades. It’s slaty from
the start with lemon, fig and mineral. A dream pairing would be
halibut with a fruit salsa.
Semillon/Sauvignon
Blanc
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2006 Horse Heaven Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc
Horse Heaven Hills, 16,000 cases,
$15
Outstanding! There might not be a more fruit-forward and
enchanting Sauvignon Blanc in the Northwest than this, thanks to
Bob Bertheau. Expressive tropical aromas include lychee and a
basket of citrus, and there’s a hint of fennel, too. On the
palate, it’s full-on tropical, creamy — the sign of 58% barrel
fermentation — and dominated by pineapple. Beautiful sugar/acid
balance allows it to bridge the gap between cocktails and dinner.
Suggested food pairings include chicken, goat cheese, halibut and
mussels.
Eleven Winery
2006 Artz Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc
Red Mountain, 81 cases, $14
Excellent. The Albee
family casts the spotlight on one of Red Mountain’s early
settlers with this food-friendly white Bordeaux. Neutral barrels
allow aromas of citrus, vanilla and fennel to sift out. The
flavor profile focuses on lime and more fennel, and the acidity
means it will cut through a cheese plate nicely. Other
possibilities include chicken with lemon and capers or a Mexican
pollo dish.
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Semillon
Columbia
Valley, 4,447 cases, $16
Recommended. No one takes their
Semillon program as serious as Marty Clubb, and this is a
sweeping sample of nine vineyards contributing to this blend with
Sauv Blanc (14%), leading with Rosebud (Wahluke Slope) and
Klipsun (Red Mountain). Some used French oak imparts a bit of
butter throughout, but the profile is centered on pears,
pineapple and honeydew melon with a pinch of basil and white
pepper adding to the complexity.
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Fries
Vineyard Semillon
Wahluke Slope, 356 cases, $20
Excellent.
Looking for an alternative to Chardonnay? The little old
schoolhouse produces one from Doug Fries’ 500-acre site. Notes of
rich tropical fruit run throughout with balanced acidity,
pleasing length and a beguiling hint of clove cigarette in the
finish.
L’Ecole No. 41
2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate
Semillon
Walla Walla Valley, 448 cases, $20
Recommended.
Lemonhead candy, toasty oak from French barrels, some fresh-baked
bread and a wealth of acidity are the hallmarks of this white
Bordeaux style wine, the only one grown at this famed 165-acre
site.
Vin du Lac of Chelan
2006 Lehm Michaela’s Vineyard
Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Chelan County, 100 cases,
$20
Recommended. Larry Lemhbecker’s initial release of this
variety off the estate site begins with alluring aromas of
Honeycrisp apples, rose water, lychee and a hint of Muscat.
Inside are intriguing flavors of more lychee and apple with the
peel, pears and grapefruit pith splashed about by bright acidity.
Enjoy with a smoked kielbasa.
Viognier
Coeur d’Alene
Cellars
2006 Viognier
Washington, 470 cases,
$18
Excellent. The same vineyards and similar percentages are
used in this Idaho winery’s top Viognier, however this bottling
is 100% barrel fermented. That explains aromas of caramel corn,
which is joined by pleasing pineapple, orange Creamsicle and
lemon pepper notes. It’s much more tropical in the mouth with a
lusciousness, follwed by plenty of bright acidity. You keep
thinking the wine will bitter out in the finish, but it
doesn’t.
Coeur d’Alene Cellars
2006 L’Artiste
Viognier
Washington, 124 cases, $24
Excellent. Warren
Schutz faces a little extra pressure on this version of unoaked
Viognier because the melding of Milbrandt, McKinley Springs,
Stillwater Creek and Elephant Mountain sources is a tribute to
the boss’ artistic mother. Lemon creme, lime and orchard fruit
aromas blend into explosive fruit flavors of mango, starfruit and
a banana/orange smoothie. The terrific acidity underneath carries
that fruit all the way through.
C.R Sandidge Wines
2006
Viognier
Columbia Valley, 233 cases, $28
Recommended. Ray
Sandidge, who helped put Kestrel on the map, knows his way around
his new full-time home in the Wenatchee Valley. His use of
Antoine Creek Vineyard near Lake Chelan shows aromas of peaches,
Circus Peanuts candy, alyssum, a wisp of toast and a hint of
butter. Apricots and butterscotch flavors get a lift from
tangerine citrus. Suggested fare includes scallops or chicken
Alfredo.
Mount Baker Vineyards
2005 Reserve
Viognier
Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $20
Excellent. Not that
many decades ago, Viognier was on the verge of extinction. Very
few acres remained in the Northern Rhône appellation of Condrieu.
But the white grape has made a resurgence, both in France and the
New World, especially in Washington where it is the No. 6 white
grape with more than 1,100 tons crushed per year. This superb
example from the Yakima Valley exhibits aromas of apricots,
apples, oranges and honeysuckle, followed by flavors of sweet
oranges and vanilla. A nice roundness on the midpalate gives this
a luscious mouth feel that leads to a lengthy finish.
Troon
Vineyard
2006 Viognier
Applegate Valley, 98 cases,
$22
Recommended. An alluring floral nose with Juicy Fruit and
citrus behind it dives into flavors of tree-ripened pears and
grapefruity acidity. Possible food applications include
alder-planked fish, goat cheese or creamy lemon chicken.
White
blends
Balsamroot Winery
2006 Edelzwicker
Columbia
Valley, 148 cases, $15
Recommended. This sweeter
Alsatian-style blend from Manson, Wash., and Antoine Creek
Vineyard shows endearing qualities of both varieties with the
orchard fruit from Riesling (60%) and the sweetened grapefruit of
Gewürztraminer (40%). It’s also reminiscent of original Gatorade
with its quenching and quaffable qualities.
Buty
Winery
2006 Semillon Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 553 cases,
$25
Recommended. The Semillon (67%) comes from one of the
oldest sites in the state — Rosebud on the Wahluke Slope — and
the Sauvignon Blanc is off Spring Creek Vineyard in the east end
of the Yakima Valley. The Sauv Blanc aromatics standout with
dusty gooseberry and starfruit, along with light toast and pear.
More orchard fruit comes out on the palate with apples and peach,
joined by ample acidity. Drink this on its own, but suggested
pairings include mushroom-filled ravioli or traditional
Thanksgiving fare.
Waterbrook Winery
2006 Melange
Blanc
Columbia Valley, 2,988 cases, $15
Excellent. Riesling
(40%) leads the mix of Gewürz (20%), Chardonnay (10%), Pinot Gris
(10%), Sauvignon Blanc (10%) and Viognier, and the sites include
Waterbrook and Willard. Effusive aromatics include peaches,
nectarines, orange blossoms, cotton candy and vanilla. The
sweetness of the peaches and nectarines on the palate belies its
residual sugar (1.9%), and it’s quite quaffable, finishing with
an intriguing savory tinge.
Other whites
Glenterra
Vineyards
2006 Pinot Blanc
Vancouver Island, 75 cases, $22
CDN
Excellent. A fair amount of oak and a hint of yeast get
quickly pushed aside by aromas of pears, lemons, apples, dried
pineapple and nettles. On the palate, winemaker John Kelly allows
the clarity of fruit and beautiful crisp tart acidity to swirl
everywhere with tart pears, slightly unripe pineapple and lemony
citrus.
Mount Baker Vineyards
2006 Roussanne
Yakima
Valley, 106 cases, $20
Recommended. As Northwest winemakers
continue to explore and work with Rhône grape varieties, the
wines keep getting better and better. Roussanne, a white grape
grown predominently in the Southern Rhône Valley, is beginning to
show up more and more in Washington, where the climate is not
dissimilar. This version shows off aromas of freshly mown hay,
minerals, apples and butterscotch, followed by flavors of oranges
and Bartlett pears. Modest acidity gives this a gentle mouth feel
and should allow it to pair with a plate of pasta tossed with
grilled vegetables.
Rosé
C.R. Sandidge Wines
2006 Great
Gams Pinot Noir Rosé
Columbia Valley, 255 cases,
$15
Outstanding! Few attempt to deal with Pinot Noir in
Washington, but Ray Sandidge and Antoine Creek Vineyard grower Ed
Haskell appear to get along well. Strawberry, Rainier cherries,
peach and light cherry cola aromas find more of the same inside,
only with a drop of residual sugar (0.8%). There’s great acidity
to back it up, then strawberry and vanilla close the deal. Enjoy
with picnic fare, but there’s such great balance, you don’t need
to serve this cold.
Le Vieux Pin
2007 Vaila Pinot Noir
Rosé
Okanagan Valley, 160 cases, $25 CDN
Excellent. Organic
grapes — cropped at 3 1/2 tons per acre — and free-run juice go
into this bottling named after the vineyard manager's daughter.
Aromas include peaches, apricots, rose petals and a pinch of
herbs. More peaches and apricots are found in the slightly
off-dry flavors (1.3% residual sugar), finished by some
strawberries. A delightful pairing would be with some fragrant
cheeses and a plate of sausages.
Dessert wine
Capitello
Wines
2006 Dolcino
Willamette Valley, 240 cases,
$20
Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Ray Walsh created a faux ice
wine with Gewürztraminer by freezing then pressing perfectly
ripened grapes. Known as a “cryogenic” wine, this method is very
successful in regions that don’t normally get cold enough to make
a true ice wine. This is a gorgeous dessert drink with aromas of
baked apples, apricots dripping with honey, cloves and lychee,
followed by luscious flavors of poached pears, honey, apricots
and jasmine. It’s a mouth-coating wine with a memorable
finish.
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2006 Chenin Blanc Ice
Wine
Horse Heaven Hills, 725 cases, $45
Outstanding! Bob
Bertheau calls this harvest “spooky” because of its timing with
Halloween, and it’s scary how skilled he’s become at making these
stickies. This is the winery’s first go at ice wine using Chenin
Blanc, and what an example. Wonderful orchard fruit aromas lead
with apricots and clover honey. The rich and honeyed palate
(26.9% residual sugar) coats the mouth, but bright lemon/lime
acidity carries the fruit.
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2006
Ethos Late Harvest White Riesling
Columbia Valley, 375 cases,
$40
Outstanding! This may rank as the best vintage of dessert
wines in Ste. Michelle’s history. Sometimes, late harvest
offerings come up shy in sweetness or acidity, but not this
botrytis-affected batch. Tones of Mandarin orange, lychee,
butterscotch, clover, lime and white hard candy also include some
steeliness and minerality inherent in the grape. Mouthwatering
acidity cuts through the honey (22%) and viscous profile. Enjoy
this with the cheese course.
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2006
Late Harvest Chenin Blanc
Horse Heaven Hills, 1,020 cases,
$25
Outstanding! A bit of botrytis added extra honey and spice
to this second dessert bottling by Bob Bertheau. Oranges,
grapefruit, lemons and apricots add to the aromatics. It’s more
grapefruit and oranges on the tongue, showcasing a tremendous
balance of fruit and sugar (17.8%). The lip-smacking and
mouthwatering finish leaves you asking for more.
Chateau Ste.
Michelle & Dr. Loosen
2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine
Horse
Heaven Hills, 530 cases, $75
Outstanding! The folks in British
Columbia almost own the Northwest monopoly on nectar such as this
— aside from CSM’s rare Single Berry Select ($200+). Harvest for
this project with Ernst Loosen began Oct. 30 and resulted in
something amazing, starting with a whisper of apricots, lime,
honey and nuttiness. A round and sweet entry glides down with
flavors of orange blossom honey, more apricots, more lime citrus
for balance (26% residual sugar) and even a hint of botrytis
spice.
King Estate
2006 Signature Collection Vin Glacé
Pinot Gris
Oregon, 2,693 cases, $18
Excellent. Organic and
estate grapes were picked by Oct. 11, then frozen to produce this
delicious cryo-“ice wine.” Baked apple pie notes join hints of
clover honey and orange marmalade. The rich, honeyed viscosity
can be mistaken for some of Mother Nature’s ice wines, but the
acidity falls just a bit behind the residual sugar
(18.6%).
Michael Florentino Cellars
2005 Quinta De La
Dolce
Columbia Valley, 125 cases, $25
Recommended. The
Vintners Village in Prosser, Wash., is home to a growing number
of Port-style producers. This offering of Touriga, Tinta Cao,
Souzao and Tinta Madeira features a nose including Dr Pepper and
Whoppers Malted Milk Balls. The perceived sweetness doesn’t
disappoint with cherry fruit leather and more of the candy born
during the Depression.
Mount Baker Vineyards
2004 Late
Harvest Viognier
Yakima Valley, 188 cases, $21
Excellent.
We don’t see many dessert wines made with this Northern Rhône
grape, but when we do, they tend to be superb. This is no
exception. It opens with aromas of rhubarb and strawberry pie
with sweet spices, honey and even a bit of roasted hazelnuts. On
the palate, it’s loaded with sweet flavors of blood oranges and
creamy vanilla. A delicious wine with 13% residual
sugar.
Troon Vineyard
2005 Insomnia Reserve
Port
Applegate Valley, $29, 105 cases
Outstanding! One
should sit down and shut down for a moment just to have fun
evaluating the aromatics. The first pass of this
Tempranillo/Dolcetto blend is remarkable because there is no hint
of the oxidation associated with many Port-style wines. Instead,
there’s a freshness with blackberries, cedar and Kookaburra Black
Licorice. Blockbuster flavors return more blackberries, a bite of
chewing tobacco, a gift of chocolate tannins and a spot-on
alcohol point.
Sparkling
Domaine Ste. Michelle
2001 Luxe
Columbia Valley, 1,640 cases, $23
Recommended. Rick
Casqueiro’s crew harvested this Chardonnay off Heily Vineyards
days before 9/11. It received French oak fermentation, then spent
11 months on the lees. Four months later, it begins a five-year
sabbatical, then gets its dosage. Three months later, it’s on the
market. Expect notes of ambrosia salad, citrus, nice crispness
and supple bubbles.
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery
2004
Steller’s Jay Brut
Okanagan Valley, 5,500 cases, $27
CDN
Outstanding! What is arguably the most popular sparkler in
the province doesn't disappoint. The annual assemblage of Pinot
Noir (50%), Chardonnay (30%) and Pinot Blanc yields aromas of
Gala apples, lemon peel, ginger, quince, yeast and bread crust.
Compact bubbles focus the bright orchard and citrus fruit on the
round palate. Pleasing cake notes appear in the finish.
Nongrape
Eaton Hill Winery
NV Lot 6 Sun Glow
Yakima
Valley, 179 cases, $16
Recommended. This unique proprietary
blend uses nectarines from Rogers’ Orchard and Riesling from
McGuire’s Vineyard to produce a wine that’s nicely influenced by
the cross of peach. It’s tasty and smooth on the palate with
orchard fruit, followed by pleasing lemon Popsicle in the
finish.
Best Buys
Cayalla Winery
2004 RTW Red Table
Wine
Columbia Valley, 12,998 cases, $13
Excellent.
Firesteed has been known to produce consumer-friendly Pinot Noir
in Oregon, and here’s its second label. Part of this blend of Cab
Franc, Cab, Merlot and Syrah hails from the Walla Walla Valley,
which is remarkable considering the winterkill in that vintage.
It starts with an amazing whiff of a dusty road after a
thundershower, joined by cranberries, vanilla, toast and sage
aromas. The structure is sassy with juicy pie cherries, plums,
black pepper and bittersweet chocolate from oak.
David Hill
Vineyards & Winery
NV Farmhouse Red
American, 2,020 cases,
$10
Excellent. Jason Bull continues to raise the quality of
the wines at the Forest Grove., Ore., winery. This wide-ranging
blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, Grenache, Tempranillo, Cab, Cab
Franc and Zinfandel is focused on fruit. And there’s lots of that
with blueberries, Bing cherries, milk chocolate and sour cherry
candy notes. There’s a quiet, mouth-coating structure with
comfortable balance and rewarding acidity.
Indian Creek
Winery
2006 Syrah
Snake River Valley, 48 cases,
$13
Excellent. It’s only about two barrels from off the estate
vines, but Bill Stowe doesn’t seem to mind practically giving
this away. Boysenberries, marionberries, dusty cherries,
chocolate and cut-plug tobacco aromas set the table for flavors
of sweet cherries, blueberries and brambleberries with the seeds.
Easy tannins, good acidity and a sendoff of cherry tomatoes will
pair nicely with pasta dishes, kebabs and a hunter’s
quarry.
Lone Canary
2006 Barbera
Wahluke Slope, 432
cases, $15
Excellent. Milbrandt Northridge Vineyard allows
Spokane’s Mike Scott to make an affordable wine for those
intrigued by this Italian variety. A spoonful of Smucker’s
raspberry jam, strawberries, leather, cola and tobacco leaf
aromas transition onto the palate in much the same fashion. An
inviting silky sweetness follows some midpalate tartness, and
there’s remarkable acidity to pair with Italian fare.
Lone
Canary
NV Bird House Red
Columbia Valley, 490 cases,
$15
Outstanding! No doubt this is the Spokane house wine for
Washington gold finches. Outlook and Willard Family vineyards
form the base of this blend, and Syrah flies in at 55%, followed
by Cab Sauv (22%), Merlot (21%) and a dropping of Sangiovese
(2%). Aromas of black cherries, vanilla and cedar leave you
perched for more, which you get in smooth fashion with a hint of
understated sweetness. There’s such nice relationship between the
fruit, tannins and acidity that it’s a tremendous food wine. Only
a birdbrain would dismiss this.
Magnificent Wine Co.
2005
Steak House
Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, $10
Excellent.
One of the Northwest’s most recognizable labels also is among its
most affordable. It’s all Cabernet Sauvignon and quite
approachable with black cherries, leather, milk chocolate and
spice tones. Suggested fare: steak.
Pend d’Oreille
Winery
2005 Bistro Rouge
Washington, 1,907 cases,
$11
Outstanding! Utterly unbelievable. Stephen Meyer extends
his consecutive streak of “Outstanding” ratings to at least four,
which is as far back as this database goes. The blend changes a
bit, this time it’s 46-23-17-8-6 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Syrah, Cab Franc, Malbec), yet remains chock full of cherry and
crushed leaf. Call this big, jammy, balanced and with a wealth of
acidity. And it’s still a bargain.
Rainier Ridge
2005
Merlot
Washington, 4,000 cases, $6
Excellent. Modestly
priced and mellow Merlots still have their place in society,
thankfully. Aromas of this start with sweet oak spice,
huckleberries, raspberries, black currants and fresh mint. A bold
entry of plush fruit, including blackberry jam and plums, supple
tannins and nice acidity make this decidedly drinkable.
Ste.
Chapelle
2005 Winemaker’s Series Cabernet Sauvignon
Idaho,
$9
Recommended. Chuck Devlin’s success in competitions
throughout the country, and his price points, have been key to
Idaho’s reputation. This expression is a classic Old World style
featuring cassis, spicy cloves, Italian herbs and mountain
berries throughout. Racy acidity and the juicy midpalate should
go nicely with a marbled steak, Italian sausage or
meatloaf.
Six Prong
2004 Red Wine
Horse Heaven Hills,
4,150 cases, $13
Outstanding! Alder Ridge along the Columbia
River produces some of the best and widest range of fruit in
Washington. This blend of Cab Franc (35%), Cab Sauv (25%),
Sangiovese (15%), Merlot (10%), Syrah (10%) and Barbera exhales
fresh Bing cherries, rhubarb, sour cherry candy, baking spice and
herbal notes. It’s a big mouthful of spicy black cherries,
strawberries and raspberries with balanced tannins. Modest
acidity means it should be enjoyed in the next two years, and the
screwcap means there’s no need to worry about cork
taint.
Stemilt Creek Winery
2004 Estate Grown Stemilt Hill
Red
Washington, 104 cases, $15
Recommended. The Mathison
family in Wenatchee produced a blend of Cab Sauv (51%), Syrah
(42%) and Merlot that’s an approachable, drink-now wine loaded
with black fruit, herbal and anise tones, rich oak and a wealth
of food-friendly acidity. Enjoy paired with a herb-rubbed grilled
pork chop.
Washington Hills Winery
2005 Merlot
Columbia
Valley, 10,000 cases, $8
Excellent. It doesn’t go for a lot at
the store, but there’s a lot going for this quick quaffer.
Enticing aromas of cherries, mint toffee, cinnamon, juniper,
thyme and olives drop into flavors of black cherries and orange
pekoe tea. The softness means drink now. The price means you can
drink it often. Enjoy with pizza.
Waterbrook Winery
2005
Merlot-Cab
Columbia Valley, 2,986 cases, $12
Excellent.
Alder Ridge along the Columbia River and the young Oasis Vineyard
near Red Mountain contribute the 60/40 breakdown that imparts
notes of plums, sour cherries, bittersweet chocolate, mint and
amaretto. It’s a smooth drink with currants on the midpalate and
finishes with a big dose of acidity and bit of caramel.
Avery Lane
2006 Riesling
Columbia Valley, 3,500
cases, $8
Recommended. The Northwest’s renewed love affair
with this grape is embraced at this Seattle-based facility. The
nose includes sweet lemon, spicy grapefruit, rose water, facial
powder, oranges and pineapple upside-down cake. Juicy Fruit
flavors and candy corn are joined by lychee, more rose water,
ample acidity and a bit of citrus pith bitterness.
Chateau
Ste. Michelle
2006 Sauvignon Blanc
Columbia Valley, 25,000
case, $10
Excellent. Rare it is to see a Chateau Ste. Michelle
wine priced at this level, so now is the time to bring this white
Bordeaux style wine to the table if you haven’t before. Exotic
aromas and flavors of lychee, grapefruit, apples, lemon curd,
sweet grass and Tropical Bar cookies are spotlighted by zippy
acidity. Serve this with Halibut Piccata.
Magnificent Wine
Co.
2006 Fish House Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 5,000
cases, $10
Outstanding! Unlike the House Wine, this Fish House
is all honest-to-goodness Chardonnay. And the quality of the wine
is no fish story. Huge tropical notes include canned papaya and
orange zest with some hints of pear and floral. It’s the same
tropical and citrus on the attack with lively acidity and
pleasing grapefruit length in the finish. Enjoy with halibut
paired with salsa, Asian dishes or California roll.
Magnificent Wine Co.
2006 House Wine White
Wine
Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, $10
Excellent. There’s
more than just marketing and packaging in this release by K
Vintners’ Charles Smith, a hair-raising blend of Chardonnay
(79%), Muscat Canelli (6%), Pinot Grigio (5%), Gewürztraminer
(5%) and Riesling. Inviting tropical fruit aromas are joined by
candy corn and fresh baked bread. A tilt pours in nice orchard
fruit and pineapple flavors with grapefruit and more candy corn
in the finish.
Pavin & Riley
2005 Riesling
Columbia
Valley, 1,800 cases, $10
Outstanding! The now-departed Steven
Sealock left quite a legacy at Precept Brands, including this
delicious and affordable drink heavily stocked with sweet ripe
orchard fruit. Lemon twist, stone, mineral, marshmallow and dusty
apple aromas reach into a big mouthful of Jonagold apples, fresh
pineapples, beautiful acidity and a bite of crisp pear in the
finish.
Washington Hills Winery
2006 Late Harvest
Riesling
Washington State, 8,000 cases, $8
Outstanding!
It’s more off-dry rather than dessert, and it’s eminently
delicious. Aromas are reminiscent of a fresh stick of Juicy Fruit
gum, lemonade, rose water, cotton candy and a scrape of slate.
Its sweet entry is more of the same, joined by pears, apples and
citrusy acidity. There’s low alcohol and pleasing sweetness with
5% residual sugar.
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