There’s something to be said for experience — especially with Pinot Noir.
After tasting 160 Pinot Noirs from Oregon, Washington, British Columbia and Idaho for this report, it says something profound that among the top wines are many of Oregon’s oldest and most experienced producers.
The Campbells, the Langes, David Adelsheim, Myron Redford, Harry Peterson-Nedry. These are folks who put the Oregon wine industry on their backs through the first couple of decades and dragged it into the modern era. David O’Reilly (Owen Roe) and Peter Rosback (Sineann) were right behind them.
Pinot Noir is a difficult grape to grow, especially in the Willamette Valley, a region on the edge of viticultural viability. The red grape made famous in Burgundy requires special handling to coax out great wine. It can turn on you at a moment’s notice, making it one of the most maddening experiences in wine appreciation.
In our evaluation, Oregon’s modern pioneers proved their mettle, showing that years of studying climate, walking vineyards and working with the most fickle of wine grapes continues to pay off with some of the Northwest’s finest wines.
Littered amid the top results are some young guns, as one might expect. Only time will tell if Barking Frog, Anam Cara, Kyra and Le Vieux Pin are flashes in the pan or have the stamina to be producing equally brilliant wines for years to come. Part of that will be up to Mother Nature, but most of it will come down to experience.
As one might expect, the vast majority of the 160 wines we tasted were from Oregon, which staked its claim with Pinot Noir in the early ’70s. We judged wines from 21 appellations, 13 of which were in Oregon. We also had more than 25 wines from British Columbia, many of which held their own with Oregon. Then a smattering came from Washington and Idaho. One Washington winery, Kyra in Moses Lake, broke through with the Evergreen State’s lone Outstanding award.
At the top of the heap were Pinot Noirs from Elk Cove Vineyards near Gaston, Ore., and Owen Roe in Newberg, Ore. The latter, in fact, earned two “Outstanding” ratings, as did Adelsheim Vineyard, also in Newberg.
Our judges for this competition included Tina Hammond, owner/winemaker of Privé Vineyard in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains; Jay Drysdale, VQA liaison for the B.C. wine industry; Bob Woehler, longtime Northwest wine writer and our tasting editor; Coke Roth, an international wine judge and member of our tasting panel; Eric Degerman, managing editor; and Andy Perdue, editor-in-chief.
Outstanding
Elk Cove Vineyards, $48, 2006 La Bohéme Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Second-generation winemaker Adam Campbell heads up our 2007 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year, and he further solidifies our selection of that award last year with this superb Pinot Noir. The grapes come from this estate 17-acre vineyard, which was planted in 1985. From the opening whiff, this reveals bright aromas of raspberries, Bing cherries, blackberries and allspice. It’s a lively wine on the palate, thanks to flavors of charming cherries and ripe raspberries. From the entry to the rich midpalate through the lengthy finish, this wine provides great balance and true elegance. (540 cases)
Owen Roe, $42, 2006 The Kilmore Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District
David O’Reilly has built Owen Roe into one of the Northwest’s most phenomenal wineries, thank to careful selection of grapes from Oregon and Washington. This Pinot Noir is a blend of two grape sources, Kalita’s Vineyard and Lenné Estate Vineyard, both in the venerable Yamhill-Carlton District west of the Dundee Hills. Pinots from this appellation tend to be complex, darker toned and layered, and this is a prime example. It opens with aromas of freshly mown hay, black raspberries and minerally earth, followed by polished flavors of ripe dark cherries and even lingonberries. A certain density of flavor is backed up with superb balance and a whisper of tannin through the smooth, long finish. (729 cases)
Barking Frog, $36, 2006 Blakeslee Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains
Ron Helbig’s Newberg, Ore., winery didn’t hit our radar until we tasted this wine, and this is called making a splash. Using grapes from this vineyard near Sherwood, Ore., Helbig has crafted an unbelievably delicious Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of raspberries, white strawberries, moist earth and well-integrated oak, followed by bold flavors that could be described as Burgundian, including forest floor, pie spices and cinnamon. It has a gentle entry without being sweet and is beautifully balanced. It’s also topped with a glass “cork” to protect the wine beneath. (105 cases)
Torii Mor, $29, 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon
This winery in the Dundee Hills has gained a following since opening in 1993, thanks to a string of top winemakers that have included Patty Green and Joe Dobbes. Jacques Tardy, a Burgundian, spent several years overseeing Montinore’s winemaking, has moved to Torii Mor. This is a blend of grapes from no fewer than 14 vineyards. The complexity that comes with such diverse sources shows in the bottle. The aromas reveal black raspberries, light cherries and whispers of oak and sandalwood, followed by flavors of black cherries, cedar and leather. This is a subtle wine backed with plenty of food-friendly acidity. We would suggest this with sirloin, pork or flank steak. (7,300 cases)
Owen Roe, $21, 2006 Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir, Oregon
From David O’Reilly comes a superior Pinot Noir at a great price — with plenty around. It’s a blend of various vineyards around the northern Willamette Valley, and its name refers to the time when landowners and laborers were partners. This is a fascinating wine, opening with aromas of black cherries, moist earth and hazelnuts. On the palate are intense flavors of ripe Bing cherries, light minerality, leather and well-integrated oak. It’s a complex and well-made wine through the long finish. (5,452 cases)
Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards, $40, 2006 Three Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
The father-son team of Don and Jesse Lange has been making Pinot Noirs high in the Dundee Hills for more than two decades, often toiling out of the limelight of more famous nearby producers. They have crafted a gorgeous wine here, which uses grapes from their estate vineyard, as well as Freedom Hill and Yamhill vineyards. The resulting wine opens with aromas of dark fruit and chocolate, followed by big, spicy flavors of rich fruit and leather. It’s a bigger style of wine, yet is very balanced and smooth. (900 cases)
Anam Cara Cellars, $42, 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Nick and Sheila Nicholas own and operate this winery and vineyard in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains. This reserve-level wine came from 10 barrels selected from a vintage that was challenging but ultimately rewarding, and all the grapes came from the 30-acre estate vineyard. It opens with aromas of ripe strawberries, cranberries, cinnamon and a bit of oak, followed by bright, clean flavors of raspberries, white strawberries, cranberries and even a hint of peppermint. A complex yet approachable wine. (213 cases)
Kyra Wines, $20, 2006 Pinot Noir, Washington
Here’s proof that it’s possible to craft Pinot Noir worth acclaim in Eastern Washington. Kyra Baerlocher in Moses Lake blends fruit from Evergreen Vineyard (82%) near the Gorge at Gorge with Blue Lakes Vineyard (18%) in Oroville to produce a brilliantly colored wine with aromas of inviting cherry jam and vanilla. The inside is filled with juicy Rainier cherries, blueberries, plums and bright acidity. A wisp of smoke in the finish adds to its charm. One judge remarked, “I like where this is going. It’s a great food wine or you can sit on the patio and just enjoy all that it has to offer.” (400 cases)
Sineann, $36, 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon
Not so quietly, Peter Rosback is emerging as one of the Northwest’s best, most innovative and fearless winemakers. He now makes wines using grapes from Oregon, Washington, California and New Zealand, and each is highly prized. All his wines are capped with glass “corks.” By the label, one might think Rosback simply tossed together grapes from various vineyards. Rather, it’s a carefully crafted blend from four of Rosback’s favorite growers in the Willamette Valley. On first whiff, this wine is slightly brooding with dark, earthy tones. Soon enough, though, it opens up and offers aromas of ripe black cherries and mushrooms, followed by flavors of rich, dark cherries backed with great structure. It’s a powerful wine that still manages to deliver a silky mouth feel. Simply stunning. (1,000 cases)
Le Vieux Pin, $45 CDN, 2006 Perigee Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Daniel Bontorin had sandy Stag Vineyard in Osoyoos, B.C., cropped to 3.6 tons per acre, and there’s a delicious assortment of fruit, spice and herbaceousness. Cherries, strawberries, cooked green beans and cinnamon aromas are redeemed on the easy approach with more strawberry and cherry flavors. The long and gentle orbit across the palate allows the allspice notes to peek out. (700 cases)
Mission Hill Family Estate, $30 CDN, 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Sites from Osoyoos north to Kelowna gave John Simes plenty to pick from. A life of 14 months in French oak embossed it with graceful aromas of vanilla, black cherries and pomegranates. It’s rather velvety and rich on the palate with more black cherries. The structure is youthful acidity over tannin with a long and beautiful finish of blueberries and cinnamon toast. Look for it wine shops because it’s sold out at the winery. (1,000 cases)
Duck Pond Cellars, $30, 2005 Jory Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
The Fries family has operated this Dundee, Ore., winery for nearly 20 years and is best known for producing good, affordable wines. This higher-end bottling is a bit of a departure — and is superb. Using grapes primarily from its estate St. Jory Vineyard in the South Salem Hills (and 9% from the Dundee Hills), it has crafted a wine that is bright and approachable yet complex. It opens with aromas of rose petals, spicy pie cherries, raspberries and cinnamon, followed by clean flavors of raspberries, Rainier cherries and cranberries, with hints of vanilla and something that reminded us of a dusty country road after a spring rain. (468 cases)
Adelsheim Vineyard, $46, 2006 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
David Adelsheim has been making Oregon Pinot Noir for as long as anyone, having arrived in the Chehalem Mountains in 1971. And he’s not shown one bit of evidence that he’s slowing down. The Adelsheims’ daughter, Elizabeth, who is earning her Ph.D. in philosophy in Paris, is featured on the label. This wine represents Adelsheim’s best barrels from seven vineyards in four appellations (Chehalem, Ribbon Ridge, McMinnville and Dundee Hills). The resulting wine is, dare we say, pretty with aromas of cranberries, rhubarb and violets, followed by flavors of boysenberries, baking spices and a sprinkling of cocoa. A velvety mouth feel provides a great sense of plushness and elegance. (1,618 cases)
Chehalem, $44, 2006 Ridgecrest Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge
Harry Peterson-Nedry was one of the forces behind the establishment of the Chehalem Mountains AVA, but he also has a special place in his heart for the nearby Ribbon Ridge appellation, the smallest AVA in the Pacific Northwest. His 55-acre Ridgecrest Vineyard was planted in the early ’80s and is the source of this superior Pinot Noir. As one would expect from Ribbon Ridge fruit, this is a pure, darker-toned wine that emphasizes power and elegance. It opens with aromas of ripe dark cherries, blueberries, vanilla and chocolate, followed by rich flavors of Bing cherries and spices. Silky tannins give way to a memorable finish. (587 cases)
Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery, $20 CDN, 2006 Optimum Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Walter and Gordon Gehringer’s reserve release swirls between black cherries and blackberries from start to finish. Cherry candy, ripe purple fruit and vanilla extract aromas yield to a rich, dense and hedonistic drink loaded with dark and ripe berries that lay on the front of the tongue. That fruit carries just over the top of the tannins and into a finish of eucalyptus and caramel. Ample acidity lends this to a serving of ginger-glazed salmon or a series of years in the cellar. (550 cases)
Quails’ Gate Estate Winery, $45 CDN, 2006 Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Estate vines two decades old off Mount Boucherie produce a wine that caters to both New and Old World interests. Tones of black cherries, caramel, green peppercorns, earthiness and a whiff of smoke blow into a great structure on the palate. Accessible fruit flavors feature strawberries, vanilla and tasty pie cherry tartness on the finish. Enjoy now alongside a suggested pairing of roasted duck breast with cherry reduction sauce. (1,100 cases)
Amity Vineyards, $40, 2006 Crannell Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Myron Redford has been going against the grain in the Eola-Amity Hills since the mid-’70s. Somewhere along the way, he decided to eschew new oak and hasn’t used any since. This strategy certainly hasn’t hurt him, as his wines consistently rise above in our judgings and other competitions. This Pinot Noir uses grapes from Crannell Farms in Amity and shows off pure fruit aromas and flavors. It opens with notes of bright cherries, raspberries and even vanilla, followed by flavors of elegant red fruit. It is so fresh and delicious now, it’s difficult to resist, yet it has the bright acidity to age into something that could well be treasured. (132 cases)
Adelsheim Vineyard, $31, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
David Paige, who joined Adelsheim as winemaker in 2001, has a beauty with this large-production bottling. He blended Pinot Noir from no fewer than 16 vineyards from throughout the Willamette Valley, 75% of which was from seven estate vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains. It’s a complex red with aromas of Bing and pie cherries, along with cinnamon, vanilla cream and moist earth. On the palate are dense flavors of ripe cherries, strawberries and well-integrated oak. Well-balanced and structured, this wine tastes delicious now and should continue to improve for a half-decade or more. (16,221 cases)
Excellent
Duck Pond Cellars, $20, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Known for producing good quality at modest prices, this Dundee, Ore., winery continues that trend, nearly pushing its way into the Outstanding category. More than 90% of the grapes come from two Duck Pond estate vineyards, which gives the winery great control over quality. This opens with aromas of Rainier cherries, strawberries and cloves, which give way to bright, rich flavors of bright red fruit backed with plentiful acidity. (22,637 cases)
Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars, $36 CDN, 2005 Reserve “Stripe Label” Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Few wines in British Columbia are as recognizable or as coveted as this, and this picturesque vineyard delivered despite a vintage the Mavetys describe as “challenging.” Pie cherries, pomegranates, whole cranberries, cola, thyme and moist earth are featured inside and out. It’s lively and balanced on the palate with a finish of a cinnamon stick stirring pie cherries that bodes well for several more years. (480 cases)
Spindrift Cellars, $24, 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This small producer near Corvallis, Ore., relies primarily on estate fruit in and around Philomath. This is a superb wine that came oh-so-close to earning our top rating. It opens with aromas of spicy cherries, boysenberries, cedar and sweet herbs, followed by a rich entry that leads to bold flavors of ripe cherries and berries. It reveals complexity on the palate, thanks to the big fruit, deftly handled oak and nice underlying earthiness, all backed with just the right amount of structure. (860 cases)
Phelps Creek Vineyards, $18, 2006 Le Petit Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge
We’ve become accustomed to tasting top-notch wines from this Hood River, Ore., winery. The grapes come from estate vineyards in the Columbia Gorge, and the wine was crafted by Peter Rosback of Sineann fame. It opens with bright aromas of cherries, cranberries, rhubarb and even a bit of strawberry jam. Its youthfulness shows through on the aromas and palate, where the flavors tend toward Bing cherries, rhubarb and strawberries. Racy acidity provides food-friendliness and a moderate finish. (125 cases)
Ponzi Vineyards, $35, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Second-generation winemaker Luisa Ponzi grew up watching her father help pioneer Oregon Pinot Noir, and for several years she has been at the helm of this winery near Beaverton. This is a classic Oregon Pinot, opening with aromas of rose petals, black truffles and pretty red fruit. On the palate are lush flavors of pomegranates and ripe cherries that provide an elegant mouth feel and a long, silky finish. (6,000 cases)
Amity Vineyards, $40, 2006 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Winemakers Darcy Pendergrass and Myron Redford use estate fruit from the Eola-Amity Hills for this single-vineyard Pinot Noir. It’s darker toned and fairly intense, with aromas of black cherries, allspice, plums and strawberries, as well as flavors of cherries, blueberries and hints of vanilla. The right-on ripeness provides bright acidity, modest tannins and great length. (99 cases)
D’Angelo Estate Winery, $25 CDN, 2005 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Ontario winemaker Sal D’Angelo traveled cross-country and makes quite an opening statement with his first vintage from estate Naramata Bench grapes. Mature black cherries, vanilla, anise and mocha aromas lead into a lively entry of pie cherries that produce a medium-bodied structure and by cherry cola farewell. (900 cases)
Owen Roe, $42, 2006 Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills
Most of the grapes for this dark, succulent red came from the Crawford-Beck Vineyard near Amity, with the rest from Eola Springs Vineyard to the south. Winemaker David O’Reilly crafted a wine with aromas that include rose petals, bright cherries, a hint of cola and a whiff of oak. On the palate are rich flavors of black cherries on a platform of velvety tannins and good underlying acidity. Superb throughout the lengthy finish. (585 cases)
Chehalem, $32, 2006 Three Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Owner Harry Peterson-Nedry takes advantage of grapes from three estate vineyards: Stoller, Ridgecrest and Corral Creek, which are from three appellations near the winery in the Chehalem Mountains. He and co-winemaker Mike Eyres crafted a complex wine that shows off aromas of bright raspberries and fresh cherries, followed by flavors of strawberries, black cherries and vanilla, all backed with a balance of acidity and tannins. (4,053 cases)
Wine by Joe, $19, 2006 Really Good Pinot Noir, Oregon
Joe Dobbes has developed into one of the best recognized leaders in the Oregon wine industry. After spending several years as winemaker for Willamette Valley Vineyards, “Hollywood” Joe launched his own winemaking and consulting company. One branch of this is the whimsical Wine by Joe, which is meant to be fun and affordable. And it’s darned good. It opens with aromas of cranberries, Rainier cherries and rose petals, followed by flavors of red currants, delicate cherries and strawberries. It came in high on our judges’ “Yummy” scale and will pair well with a wide variety of cuisines. (8,568 cases)
See Ya Later Ranch, $23 CDN, 2005 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
This is as youthful and engaging as a puppy, almost Beaujolais in style with purple fruit and a candied nose that includes caramel and anise. A bite of boysenberry dominates the palate along with a stream of acidity and fine tannins on the back one. Enjoy now with cinnamon roasted game hens, but there’s more in store in a couple of years. And it’s guarded by a screwcap. (1,050 cases)
Chehalem, $60, 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Using grapes primarily from his estate Ridgecrest Vineyard on Ribbon Ridge, Harry Peterson-Nedry then selects only the finest barrels of Pinot Noir from his cellar to craft this reserve-level red. This still is in its infancy but is already showing where it is headed. In the aromas and flavors, this is more of an Old World style of Pinot Noir, with notes of leather and forest floor on the nose and minerally earth and sun-dried tomatoes on the palate. Rising above this are flavors of red currants, pomegranates and red cherries. This is a fascinating and complex wine, and we’ll be interested to see the direction it takes with a few years in the cellar. (570 cases)
Maysara Winery, $32, 2006 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir, McMinnville
Mo Momtazi oversees the largest vineyard and nursery operation in the McMinnville appellation. His daughter Tahmiene now is head winemaker and oversees production of the three Pinot Noirs. This opens with pretty floral aromas, as well as notes of raspberries, cherries, vanilla and sweet spices, followed by dark, expressive flavors of rich cherries backed with velvety tannins. It’s a powerful yet expressive and enthralling wine. (812 cases)
Silvan Ridge, $36, 2005 Bradshaw Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This longtime producer in the southern Willamette Valley has long focused on quality. This vineyard-designated wine from grapes near Junction City, Ore., shows off a combination of New and Old World styles. It opens with aromas of fresh hay, Italian spices, rosehips and fresh plums, followed by flavors of dark fruit with a rich midpalate and good depth. (105 cases)
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, $25 CDN, 2006 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
One of the largest-production Pinot Noirs in B.C. also ranks among the best. Estate fruit cropped to 4.4 tons per acre produced a very fruit-forward style that features cherry jam and delightful acidity. The blending of Merlot (5%) adds some breadth to the structure. (2,690 cases)
CedarCreek Estate Winery, $55 CDN, 2005 Platinum Reserve Block Four Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
American expatriate Tom DiBello produced an especially appealing tribute for this Kelowna, B.C., winery’s 20th anniversary. This first vineyard-designate release opens with aromas of boysenberries and cream, cola, blueberries and baking spices. Much of the same tightly concentrated fruit, including cranberries, is framed on the palate by beautifully fine tannins and plenty of acidity for this baby to reach adulthood. (248 cases)
De Ponte Cellars, $70, 2005 Baldwin Family Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
While many vineyards in Oregon’s Willamette Valley have been forced to replant because of the root louse phylloxera, De Ponte’s 30-year-old estate vines have not. These old soldiers in the Dundee Hills gave way to this wine, which reveals luscious aromas of raspberries, black cherries and a dusting of cocoa powder, followed by luscious flavors of ripe Bing cherries and even malted milk balls. This is a smooth, well-balanced wine that should continue to develop in the bottle. (100 cases)
Best Buy!
David Hill Vineyards & Winery, $15, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Jason Bull has taken over winemaking duties for this Forest Grove, Ore., winery after several years at Laurel Ridge in Yamhill County. Using estate grapes, he has managed to produce a delicious and affordable bottle of wine. It opens with aromas of raspberries, cranberries and red currants, followed by flavors of bright cherries and raspberries. Right-on acidity and tannins back up all the flavor. (880 cases)
O’Reilly’s, $20, 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon
David O’Reilly of Owen Roe fame bottles this eponymous wine that is meant to be delicious and affordable. He manages this by selecting barrels that don’t quite fit into the Owen Roe blends, then prices it accordingly. The vineyards for this wine were from the Eola-Amity Hills and Yamhill-Carlton District. On the nose, it provides bright cranberry and raspberry aromas, along with a bit of oak, followed by an explosion of flavors that include black cherries and black raspberries. This is backed with plenty of structure and has tremendous depth of flavor. A real find. (9,750 cases)
Capitello Wines, $35, 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
New Zealand native Ray Walsh worked with some of the best Kiwi winemakers before striking out on his own in Oregon. This is his second release, and it’s a dandy. It provides aromas of black raspberries, rose petals, sweet spices and Tennessee red cedar, followed by juicy flavors of raspberries, black cherries, ripe strawberries and a hint of vanilla. It’s a bright, delicious wine from entry to the lengthy finish. (245 cases)
Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery, $25 CDN, 2005 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Those looking for a bigger style of Pinot Noir and a view of Vaseux Lake can do both here. Black cherries, vanilla, crushed walnut and toast aromas lead to concentrated flavors of more cherries, plums and a wealth of fine-grain tannins. One judge predicted, “This will be a big contender in the years to come.” (255 cases)
Golden Mile Cellars Estate Winery, $35 CDN, 2006 Black Arts Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
The Luckhurst family bought this longtime winery near Oliver, B.C., in 2003, and this wine comes from winemaker Mike Bartier’s first vintage. Red currants, thyme and saddle leather notes lead into a velvety and dense integration of cherries and forest floor earthiness. It’s big yet soft through the midpalate, yielding to spicy tannins and cranberries in the finish. Suggested fare includes chorizo with tomatoes. (2,100 cases)
Christopher Bridge Cellars, $28, 2006 Satori Springs Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Chris and Susanne Carlberg own this respected vineyard near Oregon City. Chris got this winery started with the help of brother-in-law Chris Camarda of Andrew Will fame. Now, Laurent Montalieu (formerly of WillaKenzie) crafts the wines. It opens with aromas of raspberries, minerally earth and a hint of oak, followed by integrated flavors of cherries, rhubarb, pomegranates and sweet herbs. A balanced wine with good intensity. (520 cases)
Stoller Vineyards, $40, 2005 SV Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
The Stollers, who are partners in Chehalem Wines, launched their eponymous winery using fruit from their high-tech vineyard in the Dundee Hills. Under the direction of winemaker Melissa Burr, this wine reveals aromas of black cherries, lilacs, linen and black truffles, followed by elegant flavors of lush cherries and a bit of dark chocolate, all backed with silky tannins. A smooth, easy-to-drink wine. (923 cases)
Brandborg Vineyard and Winery, $30, 2006 Love Puppets Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley
California escapee Terry Brandborg is proving the viticultural viability of Elkton, a tiny town in the northern Umpqua Valley, southwest of Eugene. The whimsical name is an inside joke having to do with a refrigerator magnet, but it might as well describe the wine’s voluptuous mouth feel. It opens with aromas of bright cherries and raspberries, followed by smooth, rich flavors of dark cherries. This is a beautiful, balanced wine with no visible faults. (800 cases)
Brandborg Vineyard and Winery, $22, 2006 Bench Lands Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley
Brandborg’s largest-production Pinot Noir comes from a variety of vineyards in the northern Umpqua Valley, primarily near the Umpqua River. It opens with aromas of red currants, cherries, vanilla and juniper, followed by clean, bright flavors of Chelan cherries. A well-balanced, flawless wine. (2,961 cases)
Amity Vineyards, $25, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Myron Redford’s mainstream Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes from no fewer than seven vineyards in the northern Willamette Valley. It opens with aromas of Rainier cherries and sweet spices, followed by flavors of cherry compote, plums and even blueberries. One judge described it as “adult fruit punch.” (2,600 cases)
Owen Roe, $42, 2006 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains
Selecting four barrels from an estate vineyard near Newberg, David O’Reilly has crafted a wine that blends the bold Pommard clone with the bright 115 version of Pinot Noir. The result is a wine with aromas of Rainier cherries, vanilla and white pepper, followed by rich, luscious flavors of bold, dark fruit, ripe cherries and a lush, lengthy finish. (103 cases)
Maysara Winery, $50, 2005 Delara Pinot Noir, McMinnville
Reaching into his Persian heritage, owner Mo Momtazi named this wine after a word that means “capture one’s heart.” It opens with aromas of black cherries, vanilla, plums and cola, followed by flavors of cherries and ripe plums. It’s a luscious wine with tremendous depth, all backed with impressive acidity. (700 cases)
Dobbes Family Estate, $24, 2005 Grande Assemblage Cuvée Pinot Noir, Oregon
Joe Dobbes and his family run this operation, which is meant to be more upscale and traditional than the whimsical “Wine by Joe” bottlings. Yet this blend of Pinot Noir grapes from throughout the state is delicious and affordable. It shows off aromas of black raspberries, violets, cherries and spices, followed by flavors of black cherries and sweet spices. It has a velvety midpalate with a near-absence of tannins, yet the underlying acidity makes this a perfect candidate for prime rib. (1,391 cases)
Elk Cove Vineyards, $29, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Adam Campbell’s mainline Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes from a variety of Willamette Valley vineyards. It’s built to be approachable in its youth, and that’s certainly the case. This opens with aromas of black cherries, vanilla, black tea and a hint of tobacco, followed by flavors of ripe cherries and bright raspberries. It’s smooth and elegant from the entry to the finish and possesses great structure throughout. (16,500 cases)
King Estate, $29, 2006 Signature Collection Pinot Noir, Oregon
One of Oregon’s largest producers, King Estate is south of Eugene near the town of Lorane. It is one of the state’s most widely distributed wineries, so it often takes the message of Oregon wine across the nation. This particular wine is a fine ambassador, indeed. It opens with aromas of ripe raspberries and strawberries, followed by smooth, delicious flavors of cherries and spices. A well-made and balanced wine. (30,500 cases)
Jovino, $19, 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon
This is yet another wine under the Joe Dobbes brand. The story goes that restaurants didn’t like the whimsy of the Wine By Joe label, so Dobbes came up with this brand, which has a more European-like name and traditional presentation. There’s still plenty of fun under the screwcap, however, beginning with aromas of ripe raspberries, cherries, strawberries and boysenberries. On the palate are deliciously creamy flavors of ripe fruit backed with velvety tannins and ample acidity. (1,541 cases)
Youngberg Hill Vineyards, $45, 2005 Jordan Block Barrel Select Pinot Noir, McMinnville
This operation is, perhaps, best known for the breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys from its bed and breakfast. But Youngberg Hill also is producing some superb wines from its estate vineyards. This block is on a steeper slope, and the wine is on the darker, more brooding side. It opens with aromas of black cherries, vanilla and rich earth, followed by flavors of dark fruit and well-integrated oak. A balanced and well-made wine. (125 cases)
Raptor Ridge Winery, $46, 2006 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District
Oregon’s most famous Pinot Noir vineyard is run by Dick Shea, and there likely are more vineyard-designated wines from his plantings than any other. Raptor Ridge, a producer in Hillsboro, makes several styles of Pinot Noir, and this is its best effort. It opens with aromas of black cherries, forest floor and oak, followed by bold flavors of ripe, black fruit. Pronounced tannins need a little time to settle down, but they also will provide the perfect foil for roasted meats. (480 cases)
Inniskillin Okanagan, $22 CDN, 2005 Dark Horse Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Sandor Mayer shows off his winemaking and viticulture knowledge with the release from the 23-acre site north of Osoyoos Lake. Hints of strawberries, black cherries, vanilla, leather, allspice and bread crust lead into a juicy structure of bright Bing cherries with moderate tannins that will begin to show best in a couple of years. (550 cases)
Salt Spring Vineyard, $30 CDN, 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Gulf Islands
Here’s another example of this grape’s potential in a maritime climate. Paul Troop crafted estate fruit that focuses on aromas of raspberries and cranberries with a whiff of light oak spice. The palate features the same rewarding red fruit with bright acidity that overshadows the tannins. Enjoy this with lamb, puttanesca or marinated flank steak. (228 cases)
Winter’s Hill Vineyard, $39, 2005 Cuvée du Vigneron Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
The Gladhart family farms a 35-acre vineyard near the Dundee Hills town of Lafayette. This reserve-level wine came primarily from estate grapes that yielded just 1.7 tons per acre. It’s a rich, spicy, elegant wine that opens with aromas of cherries, cedar, black tea and vanilla, followed by flavors of cherries, raspberries and ripe strawberries. It’s smooth on the entry yet has the acidity to age as well as pair with a variety of dishes. (750 cases)
Wine Country Farm Cellars, $42, 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
Easily the smallest-production wine in the competition, this Pinot Noir hails from Joan Davenport’s estate vineyard surrounding her bed and breakfast in the Dundee Hills. The vines are now 38 years old, and the resulting wine shows that maturity. It reveals aromas of cherries, violets, strawberries and French vanilla, followed by flavors of ripe raspberries and cherries. An elegant wine with a silky mouth feel. (24 cases)
Brandborg Vineyard and Winery, $38, 2006 Ferris Wheel Vineyard Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley
High in the hills above Elkton, Ore., is Terry Brandborg’s estate vineyard. It’s still fairly young, but its high elevation in the northern Umpqua Valley makes it a very exciting location. This wine shows off aromas of black raspberries, black licorice, ripe cherries and red peppercorns, followed by clean flavors of raspberries, cherries and even figs. Bright acidity provides the structure. (452 cases)
Thornhaven Estates, $18 CDN, 2006 Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Christine Leroux takes estate fruit from Giants Head Mountain near Summerland, B.C., to produce a lighter style with elegance and delightful acidity. The profile centers on strawberries, red currants, whole cranberries and a bit of rhubarb in the finish. (750 cases)
Spangler Vineyards, $24, 2006 Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge
Pat and Loree Spangler took over the old La Garza Cellars operation in the Umpqua Valley and have turned it into one of Southern Oregon’s most exciting wineries. They reached up into the Columbia Gorge for these grapes, which reveal elegance and density. This wine opens with aromas of violets, cherries and sweet oak spices, followed by flavors of ripe cherries and smooth tannins. This is a round, approachable wine. (452 cases)
Raptor Ridge Winery, $29, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Owner/winemaker Scott Schull blended grapes from no fewer than seven vineyards from throughout the northern Willamette Valley for this wine, including such notables as Shea, Meredith Mitchell, Hawks View and Yamhill Springs. The resulting wine shows similar complexity, including aromas of cherries, strawberries and violets, followed by flavors of cherries and pomegranates. A silky mouth feel and smooth finish give this added elegance. (1,100 cases)
The Four Graces, $27, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Steve and Paula Black named their winery after their four daughters, Alexis, Vanessa, Christiana and Jillian. The grapes come from their estate vineyard in the Dundee Hills, and the wines are crafted by consulting winemaker Laurent Montalieu. This is a darker-toned wine with aromas of black cherries, vanilla and lavender, followed by flavors of black cherries and hints of sweet spices. An easy-drinking wine with good density. (7,400 cases)
Carlton Hill Wine Co., $36, 2006 Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District
Winemaker David Polite used grapes from his estate vineyard in the middle of the venerable Yamhill-Carlton District for this distinctive Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of pomegranates, cranberries and crushed herbs, followed by approachable flavors of cherries and raspberries. Beautifully balanced acidity gives this food-friendly approachability. Cook ours rare. (490 cases)
Stoller Vineyards, $25, 2006 JV Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
This vineyard up the hill from the town of Dundee, Ore., was planted beginning in 1995 and had some of the best folks in the business helping, including Allen Holstein and Harry Peterson-Nedry. Melissa Burr crafted this wine in Stoller’s new facility amid the vines. It opens with inviting aromas of cherries, red peppercorns and blackberries, followed by richly structured flavors that reminded us of a freshly baked cherry pie. It is well balanced and lengthy in the finish. (2,983 cases)
A to Z Wineworks, $20, 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon
When Bill Hatcher left Domaine Drouhin Oregon after managing the French-owned winery in the Dundee Hills for a dozen years, few realized what his next move would be. And nobody expected he would head up the state’s largest winery. He’s pulled together quite a team, including winemakers Sam Tannahill and Cheryl Francis and partner Gregg Popovich, whose day job includes coaching the world champion San Antonio Spurs. This wine? Pure Oregon, thanks to aromas of cranberries and cherries and clean, approachable flavors of strawberries, cherries and vanilla. Smooth tannins and bright acidity provide all the balance needed to pair with prime rib or Copper River salmon. (51,000 cases)
Redman Wines, $30, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This young winery on Ribbon Ridge, the Northwest’s smallest appellation, is off to a grand start with this, its second release. It shows off elegant aromas of ripe Bing cherries, violets and blueberries in cream, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and sweet spices. A well-made and balanced wine. (606 cases)
Dobbes Family Estate, $65, 2005 Quailhurst Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Winemaker Joe Dobbes uses grapes from this vineyard on Parrot Mountain in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains appellation, one of the most distinctive areas of this AVA. It’s a rather sexy wine with aromas of black cherries, black raspberries, blackberries and dark chocolate, followed by intense flavors of rich, dark fruit, including Bing cherries and blackberries with a hint of leather. (150 cases)
Henry Estate, $18, 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon
For three decades, the Henry family has been producing some of the state’s most stylish wines in the Umpqua Valley. This spicy Pinot Noir opens with aromas of cherries, mild blackberries, cola and a bit of oak, followed by lush, delicious flavors of mature pie cherries, raspberries and even a hint of citrus for complexity. (7,000 cases)
Recommended
Lang Vineyards, $19 CDN, 2006 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Here’s another young and fresh style, albeit from 25-year-old vines on the Naramata Bench, that’s mostly tank-fermented. Notes of strawberry jam, sarsaparilla and cola with ample acidity and tannins make this a nice pair to roasted pork, chicken or Italian dishes. (450 cases)
Raptor Ridge Winery, $38, 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This reserve-level wine used grapes from seven north Willamette Valley vineyards, then aged in French oak (44% new). The resulting wine shows off complex aromas of raspberries, sarsaparilla, blueberries and blood oranges, followed by penetrating flavors of blueberries backed with velvety tannins. (1,100 cases)
Mount Boucherie Estate Winery, $19 CDN, 2005 Summit Reserve Pinot Noir, British Columbia
Big tones of black cherry and vanilla make for an inviting drink of more cherries and raspberries. A smooth structure of tannins from 16 months in French barrels and acidity included a return of black fruit and more oak in the finish. Suggested fare includes duck breast or lamb kebabs. (1,200 cases)
Erath Vineyards, $31, 2005 Estate Selection Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
Winemaker Gary Horner blended grapes from five vineyards within the Dundee Hills AVA for this luscious Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of cinnamon, cherries and sandalwood, followed by smooth flavors of cherries and raspberries. Well-managed oak provides complexity, and there’s plenty of food-friendly acidity just beneath the surface. (3,435 cases)
Golden Mile Cellars Estate Winery, $23 CDN, 2006 Luckhurst Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, British Columbia
A deep and dark fruit profile of candied strawberries and canned pie cherries is carried into a firm structure with some pleasing oiliness in the finish. Duck confit would be a nice fit. (700 cases)
Left Coast Cellars, $24, 2005 Cali’s Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Big blueberries, plum jam, eucalyptus leaf, cola and strawberries make this a Bordeaux lover’s Pinot Noir. There’s a delicious berries-and-cream note in the midpalate with a boldness of acidity that would allow it to stand up to a hunter’s bounty. (2,000 cases)
Cana’s Feast Winery, $45, 2006 Pinot Noir, McMinnville
This winery in the town of Carlton, Ore., used to be known as Cuneo Cellars but has changed names and direction. Now overseeing winemaking is Patrick Taylor, who worked under founder Gino Cuneo for several years. The grapes for this wine come exclusively from the highly regarded Meredith Mitchell Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA. It opens with aromas of cranberries, raspberries and Chelan cherries, followed by flavors of Rainier cherries and even black cherry liqueur. It’s hedonistic yet has plenty of acidity. (162 cases)
Dobbes Family Estates, $42, 2004 Griffin’s Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Winemaker/owner Joe Dobbes built this Pinot Noir to be his most age-worthy. It is a big wine, for certain, and has plenty of cellaring potential. It opens with aromas of black cherries, blackberries and French vanilla, followed by flavors of Bing cherries and plums. This was easily one of the biggest, boldest Pinot Noirs we tasted. (223 cases)
Best Buy!
Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery, $15 CDN, 2006 Private Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
It’s almost unheard and unseen — some might say obscene — for a family-owned winery to release a Pinot Noir of this quality at this price. Juicy black cherries, allspice and caramel make this an extremely likable expression of Burgundy. (2,300 cases)
Raptor Ridge Winery, $46, 2006 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville
One of the more confusing of the new Oregon appellations is McMinnville because the city of the same name is not inside the AVA. Rather, the viticultural area is a few miles south of town on a hill in the Coast Range. Meredith Mitchell is one of the state’s most important vineyards, and this wine shows off the region’s darker-toned wines. This opens with aromas of crushed herbs, ripe pie cherries and peppercorns, followed by racy flavors of ripe Bing cherries. The racy acidity contrasts nicely with the silky mouth feel. (192 cases)
Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery, $19 CDN, 2006 Rock Wren Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Mission Hill Family Estate’s new minted second label allows it to produce value-minded wines. Here’s a rather exotic example with notes of strawberries, vanilla, blueberries and organic unsweetened Montmorency cherries. A straightforward structure is capped by hints of citrus and juniper berries.
Sineann, $42, 2006 Covey Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This vineyard north of Forest Grove, Ore., in the town of Banks is a favorite of Sineann owner/winemaker Peter Rosback. This shows some dark tones, starting with aromas of black cherries, black currants and minerally soil, then flavors of more dark fruit and earthy notes. This is pretty tightly wound at the moment and is likely to reveal more of its nature with some time in the cellar. (300 cases)
Amity Vineyards, $40, 2006 Sunnyside Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This vineyard near Salem, Ore., has been one of Myron Redford’s favorites for years, and he regularly makes a designated wine from Sunnyside’s grapes. This offers aromas and flavors of spicy cherries with plenty of underlying acidity. Based on past experience, we suspect this has more to reveal with a little aging. (203 cases)
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards, $18 CDN, 2006 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Diamondback and Tinhorn Creek vineyards combined for this production that opens with cherry pie, cola, grape Popsicle and fresh button mushrooms. Boysenberries and black cherries with the peel are escorted by ample acidity and slightly assertive tannins. Quite pleasant, it was judged more than four months prior to its July 1 release, so it will only get better. And with the screwcap, there’s no concern about cork taint. (3,080 cases)
Le Vieux Pin, $45 CDN, 2006 Emoi Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Black fruit, leaf tobacco and cedar notes spill out on the palate with a firmness and hedonistic ripeness that comes from fruit taken from the Golden Mile at 26.5 brix. That structure would be best enjoyed in the next one to two years alongside duck confit. (305 cases)
Amity Vineyards, $45, 2005 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This blend of grapes from three vineyards (Sunnyside, Amity Estate and Schouten) represents the best barrels from the vintage for owner/winemaker Myron Redford. Historically, it ages extremely well, improving for many, many years. This shows off aromas and flavors of raspberries, strawberries and cherries, backed with plenty of acidity. It’s good now, and it should show even better in another year. (291 cases)
Foris Vineyards, $18, 2006 Pinot Noir, Rogue Valley
The grapes for this luscious Pinot Noir came from seven vineyards in the Illinois Valley, a subregion of the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon. It reveals aromas and flavors of black cherries, sweet spices and vanilla, all backed up with ample acidity and moderate tannins. (11,728 cases)
Illahe Vineyards, $19, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Longtime grape grower Lowell Ford established this vineyard west of Salem, Ore., in 1999 with a focus on Pinot Noir. Winemakers Brad Ford and Michael Lundeen have crafted an elegant wine with aromas of violets and strawberries, as well as bright, smooth flavors of cherries and strawberries. (475 cases)
Elk Cove Vineyards, $48, 2006 Mount Richmond Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This estate vineyard near the town of Yamhill was planted in 1997. It is lower in elevation than the Campbells’ other vineyards, so it tends to ripen earlier. This wine reveals aromas of strawberries, ripe cherries and black pepper, along with intense and spicy cherries and loganberries. (540 cases)
Ponzi Vineyards, $60, 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Winemaker Luisa Ponzi used grapes from three estate vineyards and two other sources for this reserve-level wine. It shows off elegant aromas and flavors of cherries and sweet spices, backed up with supple tannins and bright acidity. From one of the coolest vintages in a decade, this Pinot Noir still is trying to unwind. (1,500 cases)
Raptor Ridge Winery, $38, 2006 Yamhill Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District
This vineyard is on the western side of the Yamhill-Carlton District, up against the Coast Range. The resulting wine shows off aromas and flavors of cherries, cedar, black raspberries and a variety of spices. It’s a luscious wine. (100 cases)
Elk Cove Vineyards, $38, 2006 Five Mountain Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Originally planted in the late ’70s by the Ponzi families, this vineyard was bought by Elk Cove in 2005 after leasing it for many years. This is a darker-toned red with aromas and flavors of black truffles, mushrooms, plums and chocolate-covered cherries. (100 cases)
Benton-Lane Winery, $26, 2006 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This longtime producer in the southern Willamette Valley blended together seven different clones of Pinot Noir for this wine. That complexity shows in the bottle, with aromas and flavors ranging from cranberries to rhubarb. It’s a bold, luscious wine with good length. (24,866 cases)
Raptor Ridge Winery, $38, 2006 Stony Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville
This steeply sloped vineyard west of the city of McMinnville is owned and farmed by Stan Murayama, and Raptor Ridge has been using the grapes for a while. This wine offers bright, beautiful aromas and flavors of raspberries and spicy cherries, along with gorgeous acidity and great length. (96 cases)
Maysara Winery, $25, 2005 Jamsheed Pinot Noir, McMinnville
Named for an ancient Persian king, this affordable Pinot Noir takes advantage of grapes from throughout the estate Momtazi Vineyard. It reveals bright, beautiful aromas of raspberries and flavors of Rainier cherries. Mild tannins and good acidity provide ample structure. (4,083 cases)
Battle Creek, $40, 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Corus Estates & Vineyards, based in Seattle, owns this 135-acre vineyard near Willamette Valley Vineyards south of Salem, Ore. This is a dark, brooding wine, revealing aromas and flavors of black truffles, mushrooms and ripe dark cherries. (200 cases)
Torii Mor, $75, 2005 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District
This was one of western Oregon’s most challenging vintages in nearly a decade, though better viticultural and winemaking practices led to its success. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of minerally earth, ripe plums and dark cherries. There’s a lot here that has yet to unravel. We’d like to check it again in a couple of years. (171 cases)
De Ponte Cellars, $38, 2005 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
Winemaker Isabelle Dutartre used grapes from two vineyards to craft this wine, which exhibits aromas and flavors of black cherries, black truffles and a hint of cinnamon sticks. It’s a delicious wine with ample acidity and good length. (1,500 cases)
Blasted Church, $24 CDN, 2006 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
The upper and lower estate blocks gave Richard Kanazawa the flexibility to produce a youthful yet dense structure of strawberries and violets. Suggested pairings include seared ahi tuna and mushroom-based risotto. (629 cases)
Pend d’Oreille Winery, $20, 2005 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley
Owner/winemaker Steve Meyer reached from the top of Idaho nearly to the bottom to find these grapes at Kuna Butte Vineyard in the recently christened Snake River Valley. The resulting wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of allspice, cinnamon and cherries. Bold fruit flavors are backed by plush tannins. (175 cases)
Panther Creek Cellars, $40, 2004 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This longtime downtown McMinnville, Ore., winery was started by Ken Wright and now is owned by Silvan Ridge in Eugene. The grapes are from a coveted vineyard southwest of Salem. It’s a rich, bold, dark wine with aromas and flavors of forest floor, tobacco and dark cherries. (468 cases)
Torii Mor, $60, 2005 Temperance Hill Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills
Temperance Hill is one of the northern Willamette Valley’s most important and prestigious vineyards, and its grapes go into many wineries’ bottles. This wine by Jacque Tardy offers aromas and flavors of violets, raspberries, cherries and other red-toned fruits. It’s an elegant wine with ample underlying acidity. (250 cases)
Kathken Vineyards, $19, 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This panoramic vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills west of Salem, Ore., has 34 acres dedicated to Pinot Noir. This reserve-level wine reveals more of an Old World style, with dark, brooding notes of earth and black cherries. (500 cases)
Best Buy!
Kathken Vineyards, $13, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Kathy and Ken Slusser make up the two sides of this Eola-Amity Hills winery’s name. Their grapes come from their 40-acre vineyard, and they also cater to weddings and other parties. This delicious and affordable wine offers aromas and flavors of spicy cherries with solid underlying acidity and good length. (500 cases)
Henry Estate, $30, 2003 Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley
One of the oldest wines in our tasting, this Pinot Noir from Southern Oregon is just being released. It’s from a very warm vintage and reveals aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and leather and is a big, bold wine. (800 cases)
Erath Vineyards, $40, 2005 Prince Hill Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
It’s difficult to believe it’s been four decades since Dick Erath showed up in Oregon to plant grapes and make wine. Now he’s helping to pioneer a wine industry in Arizona and has left his eponymous operation in the able hands of Ste. Michelle and Gary Horner. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of cranberries, black cherries and hints of oak. (672 cases)
Foris Vineyards, $25, 2005 Maple Ranch Pinot Noir, Rogue Valley
This reserve-level Pinot Noir comes from Foris’ estate Maple Ranch Vineyard, which is northeast of the winery in Cave Junction, Ore. It’s a beguiling wine with youthful aromas and flavors of cranberries, red currants, Bing cherries and sweet spices. (398 cases)
Anam Cara Cellars, $32, 2006 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains
Using grapes from their estate Nicholas Vineyard, Nick and Sheila Nicholas have crafted a wine that reveals aromas and flavors of ripe, dark fruit, along with freshly ground espresso and forest floor. This wine is still several months from being released. (700 cases)
Lange Winery and Vineyards, $60, 2005 Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
The fractured basalt soils called “jory” give this area of the northern Willamette Valley its red hue. The grapes for this wine are from high in the Dundee Hills, and it offers aromas and flavors of dark fruit, including currants and Bing cherries, along with some notes that reminded us of truffle oil. (400 cases)
Best Buy!
Hip Chicks Do Wine, $15, 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon
The hip chicks are Laurie Lewis and Renee Neely, who set out nearly a decade ago to take the mystery and snobbery out of wine at their urban winery in Portland. There’s certainly nothing pretentious here, as this wine is all about bright aromas and flavors of strawberries and cherries. Good acidity means it pairs well with many foods and good times. (300 cases)
The Four Graces, $37, 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
After nearly a decade of relatively warm, dry harvests, Mother Nature brought rains in the autumn of 2005. Thankfully, the viticultural practices learned and repeated through the prior years came into play and the vintage is turning out to be a classic. This wine is showing darker tones at the moment, with aromas and flavors of mushrooms, moist earth, plums and spices. Underneath are some pretty notes of strawberries and ripe cherries. (1,082 cases)
Blue Pirate, $20, 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon
The “blue pirates” of Dundee, Ore., apparently were bluebirds that would steal hazelnuts out of delivery trucks at the Westnut Hazelnut Factory. This wine is made in the same building, hence the historical — and whimsical — name. This wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of black raspberries, Bing cherries, French vanilla and cardamom. It’s luscious on the palate with a gentle finish. (1,500 cases)
Kramer Vineyards, $35, 2005 Rebecca’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District
Nearly a decade ago, we gave owner/winemaker Trudy Kramer the moniker “the Queen of Yamhill” because of her longevity and a suit of armor that guarded the vineyard. Trudy’s still going strong, as this wine will attest. It shows off aromas and flavors of dried cherries, fruit leather and sprinkles of chocolate. (100 cases)
Oak Knoll Winery, $22, 2005 Red Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon
This may well be the first wine we’ve tasted from the Red Hill Douglas County AVA, a single-vineyard appellation that is an island in Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. The wine reveals aromas and flavors of cherries, cranberries, rhubarb and strawberry jam with ample acidity and moderate tannins. (773 cases)
Montinore Estate, $22, 2006 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This longtime winery in Forest Grove, Ore., has been producing underrated wines for the better part of two decades. This Pinot Noir from estate fruit shows off dark tones, including black cherries and crushed herbs, along with a fair bit of oak. (2,023 cases)
Indian Creek Winery, $17, 2006 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley
Bill Stowe has helped a lot of Idaho winemakers get started. He’s also made a lot of good wines along the way, with his focus generally on Pinot Noir. This is a bright wine with aromas and flavors of ripe cherries, violets and an elegant sweet herbal note. It has ample acidity to pair with everything from pork to prime rib. (890 cases)
Elk Cove Vineyards, $38, 2005 Shea Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Ancient marine sedimentary soils are found throughout the Yamhill-Carlton District, a profile that often gives the wines darker, more complex notes. That’s certainly the case with this wine, which exhibits aromas and flavors of ripe but brooding fruit and earthy undertones. Some lusciousness does show up on the finish, but this wine still has some unwinding to do. (200 cases)
English Estate, $29, 2006 Gravel Mine Vineyards Pinot Noir, Clark County
This winery in Vancouver, Wash., is one of the few Washington producers focusing on estate Pinot Noir. English Estate also is a heavy promoter of its premium bag-in-a-box wines. This wine opens with beautiful aromas of ripe raspberries and sweet spices, which lead to intense flavors of sweet cherries backed with ample acidity.
ADEA Wine Co., $30, 2004 Dean-O’s Pinot, Willamette Valley
This small producer in northern Yamhill County used grapes from four vineyards, and the barrels were hand selected by co-owner Dean Fisher. It is a darker-toned wine with aromas and flavors of black truffles, black cherries and mushrooms. (450 cases)
Cana’s Feast, $25, 2006 Bricco Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This reserve-level wine, pronounced “BREE-ko,” is an Italian word that refers to the highest level of a vineyard. This young wine is exhibiting aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and moist earth with a fairly rich mouth feel, supple tannins and good length. (591 cases)
Winter’s Hill Vineyard, $32, 2005 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills
Some of the Gladharts’ 21 acres of vines near Lafayette, Ore., are coming up on two decades old. All the grapes for this wine come from the estate vineyard and show off aromas and flavors of black cherries and even spiced apples. It’s a bold wine with a luscious mouth feel and good length. (750 cases)
Youngberg Hill Vineyards, $35, 2004 Natasha Block Pinot Noir, McMinnville
Because the Coast Range is in the way, it’s easy to forget that the Pacific is just 25 miles west of this vineyard in the northern Willamette Valley. Cool ocean breezes are especially important in a warm vintage like 2004. This is a big wine with aromas and flavors of ripe Bing cherries and dark toasty notes. It has a round mouth feel and solid structure for pairing with roasted meats. (400 cases)
ADEA Wine Co., $25, 2005 Ann Sigrid Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
This reasonably priced wine is a selection of barrels by co-owner Ann Fisher and is a blend of three vineyards. It reveals darker tones, with aromas and flavors of black cherries and blackberries. It has a luscious mouth feel and good length. (300 cases)
Torii Mor, $55, 2005 Olalla Vineyard Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley
Olalla Vineyard near the Southern Oregon town of Winston was planted in the mid-’70s and purchased by Bob Reid 20 years later. Reid manages the 4.5 acres of Pinot Noir. This wine offers enticing aromas and flavors of black raspberries, black cherries and cloves. Rich tannins and good acidity balance the fruit, making this a wine worth cellaring. (148 cases)
Pleasant Hill Winery, $25, 2005 Courting Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon
Larry Lindvig reaches all the way from his winery in Carnation, Wash., down to this vineyard near tiny Banks, Ore., for his Pinot Noir. It reveals aromas and flavors of ripe Rainier cherries, forest floor and a hint of freshly ground coffee. (64 cases)
Dobbes Family Estate, $52, 2005 Cuvée Noir Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
Of his three blended Pinot Noirs, winemaker Joe Dobbes describes this as the most opulent. We would easily agree, as it exhibits aromas and flavors of ripe plums, blackberries and even dark chocolate. It’s big and ripe, yet the underlying acidity props up all the fruit. We think you’ll like it with duck or prime rib. (273 cases)
Vercingetorix Vineyard, $28, 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley
The folks at Willamette Farms near Newberg produce two of Oregon’s most famous crops: hazelnuts and wine grapes. While we love the former, we focus on the latter. This youthful wine shows off bright aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries and hints of white pepper. Its bright acidity and supple tannins give it youthful approachability, and it should pair well with pork, chicken or grilled portobellos. (467 cases)
Bonair Winery, $30, 2005 Chateau Puryear Vineyard Pinot Noir, Rattlesnake Hills
This longtime Yakima Valley winery has released its first Pinot Noir, all from its estate Chateau Puryear Vineyard in Zillah, Wash. The Rattlesnake Hills are in the northern part of the Yakima Valley, which is slightly cooler and has a history of Pinot Noir. This wine provides aromas and flavors of ripe, bright cherries and sweet kitchen spices. It’s loaded with acidity and has a smooth, lengthy finish. (79 cases)
-- ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest.
-- ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press Northwest.
-- JACKIE JOHNSTON, a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com
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