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The way things are going in Washington these days, the above headline needs a bit more information - because it seems like a Walla Walla winery is opening a second tasting room in Woodinville about every other week.
ROHNERT PARK, Calif. — Northwest wineries fared well at the 2010 Grand Harvest Awards, an international wine competition staged by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine.
'Tis the season for Northwest foodies and oenophiles to deck the halls with winter squash and pumpkins, regional shellfish (scallops, crab, oysters and mussels) and traditional fowl and game dishes.
Our holiday feast begins with Crab “BLT," a recipe from Bruce Ross, executive chef of the Columbia Tower Club in Seattle. Whip one-half cup of creme fraiche to soft peaks. Fold in one tablespoon each whole-grain mustard and freshly grated lemon zest. Season to taste with kosher salt and white pepper. Gently fold in three cups of Dungeness crabmeat. Carefully fill a three-inch ring mold (or a small ramekin) two inches high with the crab salad.
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees and cut six 3-inch disks out of thinly sliced pieces of brioche. Brush with extra virgin olive oil and bake seven to 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Cook three pieces of applewood-smoked bacon and cut into 1-inch strips.
To serve, place two teaspoons of crème fraîche on a chilled plate. Top with a brioche crisp. Place the ring mold with the crab on top of the brioche and remove the ring. Place two cherry tomato halves on the crab, arrange bacon pieces over the tomatoes and top with micro celery.
I first enjoyed Crab "BLT" at Wine Press Northwest's second annual Platinum Wine Dinner, where it was paired with the Three Rivers 2002 Meritage White, winemaker Holly Turner's beautifully crafted Bordeaux-style blend from the Columbia Valley. The 2005 vintage ($19) is made of 72 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 28 percent Semillon. Lively citrus flavors (fresh lemon and lemon zest!) tickle the palate, sur-lie aging in French oak imparts a soft oakiness and round mouth feel, and the wine's clean minerality make it a perfect pairing with Northwest shellfish.
Our holiday feast continues with Curried Pumpkin Soup, a recipe from Short Cuts to Great Cuisine (The Crossing Press, 1994). You can make it with fresh butternut squash or yams or canned pumpkin (a real holiday time-saver). Melt two tablespoons of unsalted butter in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add one small minced white or yellow onion and one tablespoon mild curry powder and cook seven to 10 minutes, or until softened, stirring often. Blend in three cups chicken stock or broth and one (15-ounce) can pumpkin purée. Bring to a boil and simmer five minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Pair the slightly sweet yet pleasantly spicy soup with Latitude 46 N 2005 Gewurztraminer ($20) from the renowned Celilo Vineyard in Washington's Columbia Gorge. Clear and pale golden in color, this lyrical wine opens with lovely fruits and spices - grapefruit, orange, nutmeg - backed by just the right amount of acidity and a hint of sweetness, the perfect choice with so many holiday foods.
Blue Cheese Walnut Chicken, a recipe from The Rogue Creamery in Central Point, Ore., is easy enough for everyday eating but fancy enough for holiday hedonism. In a small bowl, combine one-half cup crumbled Oregon Blue cheese, three tablespoons finely chopped walnuts, three finely chopped green onions and two tablespoons heavy cream. Cut a pocket in six boneless, skinless chicken breasts, stuff with the cheese mixture and secure with a skewer. In a large skillet over medium heat, cook two finely chopped garlic cloves with three tablespoons of unsalted butter until golden.
Add the chicken and saute five to seven minutes on each side. Remove the chicken and keep warm. Add one cup of fruity red wine to the skillet and reduce by half. Pour over the chicken and serve.
Pair the chicken with Isenhower Cellars 2004 Looking Glass Syrah ($20) from the Columbia Valley. Made with 100 percent Syrah from the Rattlesnake Hills and Red Mountain appellations, this complex wine is rife with aromas and flavors of black and red fruits (blackberries and strawberry jam), hints of earth and white pepper and whiffs of smoke and toast.
Chocolate Pot de Creme, one of the most popular desserts at Place Pigalle in the Pike Place Market, is an easy-to-make option for holiday entertaining. Begin by melting one-half pound of coarsely chopped, good-quality bittersweet chocolate in a double boiler, stirring occasionally. Slowly add two cups of heavy whipping cream, whisking until the chocolate and cream are well mixed. Bring just to a boil, being careful not to scorch the cream and whisking occasionally. Remove from the heat.
Whisk six large egg yolks until light and fluffy. Whisking constantly, slowly pour the chocolate mixture into the yolks until thoroughly combined. Divide the chocolate evenly among six small ramekins or custard cups. Refrigerate two hours, or until the chocolate sets and chills. Just before serving, whip one cup heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Dollop each ramekin and garnish with fresh mint leaves.
Pair the chocolate pot of pleasure with Venturi-Schulze Vineyard 2004 Brandenburg No. 3 ($36 CDN/375 ml), a heady dessert wine from Vancouver Island. Medium amber in color, Brandenburg No. 3 is reminiscent of a complex Amontillado Sherry. Brimming with caramel-coffee notes, smoke and earth, this decadent delight is a fitting way to celebrate the holidays.
'Tis the season!
Braiden Rex-Johnson has written about Northwest food, wine and travel for 16 years and is the author of six books, including the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook. Visit her online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com.
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