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The way things are going in Washington these days, the above headline needs a bit more information - because it seems like a Walla Walla winery is opening a second tasting room in Woodinville about every other week.
ROHNERT PARK, Calif. — Northwest wineries fared well at the 2010 Grand Harvest Awards, an international wine competition staged by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine.
It's time to hail the harvest as Northwest cooks welcome cooler temperatures, heartier appetites and autumn's amazing array of produce, native finned- and shellfish, artisanal cheeses and game and meat offerings.
Our autumn feast begins with Oysters Gratinee, a recipe from Chef Philippe Boulot of The Heathman Restaurant in Portland. Begin by shucking 20 fresh Pacific Northwest oysters (European Flats, Kumamotos or Pacifics) over a bowl to catch the juices. Rinse the bottom shells in hot water and pat dry completely. Add the oyster juice, one pound of leeks (green part only - well cleaned and chopped) and one cup heavy whipping cream to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Cook gently, five to seven minutes, or until the leeks are tender. Add six ounces of grated Swiss cheese, stir well and cool. Once cool, whisk in one large egg yolk.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place a layer of coarse salt on a rimmed baking sheet and arrange the oyster shells without crowding. Divide half the leek mixture among the shells, place an oyster in each shell and cover with the remaining leek mixture. Cook five to seven minutes and serve on a bed of rock salt.
A sumptuous appetizer deserves a sumptuous wine, such as L'Ecole No 41 2004 "Barrel Fermented" Semillon ($14) from Washington's Columbia Valley. Buoyed by crisp acidity and blended with 14% Sauvignon Blanc, this brilliant wine shows citrus, pear and lychee nut in the nose and mouth, while its creamy texture mirrors the richness of the leek/cream sauce.
"Blue Velvet" Salad with Raspberry/Balsamic Syrup comes from Okanagan Valley cheesemakers Ofri and Ofer Balmor of Carmelis Alpine Goat Cheese Artisan. Make the fruit-filled syrup by bringing two cups of Pinot Noir, three tablespoons each raspberry jam and balsamic vinegar and one-half cup fresh raspberries, strawberries, blueberries or cranberries to a simmer in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat 25 minutes, or until syrupy and three-quarters cup remains.
Prepare the salad by whisking an egg in a small bowl and placing one cup of homemade fresh bread crumbs on a plate. In a large skillet, heat one tablespoon extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. Dip one "Blue Velvet" cheese (or a six-ounce Camembert-style cheese) in the egg mixture, then into the bread crumbs, coating each side lightly. Place in the skillet and repeat with another cheese. When the cheeses are golden brown on each side and slightly oozy, drain on paper towels. Divide one pound of salad mix among six plates and divide the cheese over the greens. Drizzle with the syrup, sprinkle with freshly grated orange zest and serve immediately.
Pair the wine with Deep Creek Wine Estate 2004 Z3 ($15 CDN) from the Okanagan Valley, a light-bodied yet lively blend that Beaujolais lovers will appreciate. Pinot Noir forms its foundation, Zweigelt packs a punch of vibrant fruit and chocolate, while Merlot adds pepper and spice notes.
Black Forest Pork Tenderloin is a lovely autumn entree devised by Chef Steve Corson, son of Vicki and Don Corson of Camaraderie Cellars on Washington's Olympic Peninsula.
Season two one-pound pork tenderloins with salt and pepper. Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the meat and cook five minutes, until browned on all sides. Reduce the heat and continue cooking until just pink, 25 to 30 minutes, turning occasionally. Remove from the pan and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Add two cups of dry red wine (Merlot recommended) and one cup of cherry preserves, scraping up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Simmer seven to 10 minutes, or until the liquid reduces slightly.
Slice the pork and serve with the red-wine sauce.
Pair the pork with Camaraderie Cellars 2003 Merlot ($25). This Washington "Cab drinker's Merlot" is full of cherry and blackberry aromas and flavors, with a rich mouth feel, balanced acidity and a lingering finish. Hints of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc fill the roundness and acidity in this food-friendly wine.
Our fall dessert recipe comes from Michael Allemeier, executive chef at Mission Hill Family Estate in British Columbia's Okanagan Valley. Make his Late Harvest Riesling Sauce by heating one-half cup of Mission Hill Late Harvest Riesling in a small, nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. With a small, sharp knife, cut a vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the pan. Bring to a simmer and reduce by half, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and whisk in seven ounces (14 tablespoons) of room temperature, unsalted butter piece by piece. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and serve over poached pears and toasted pound cake.
Pair the dessert with the rest of the Mission Hill 2002 Late Harvest Riesling ($35 Canadian/375 ml). This luscious wine demonstrates aromas and flavors of peaches, apricot, vanilla and toasted nuts. Rich amber in color and beautifully balanced by mid-palate acidity, its honeyed sweetness is a rare nectar designed to delight all the senses, not unlike autumn itself.
Braiden Rex-Johnson has written about Northwest food, wine and travel for 16 years and is the author of six books, including the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook. Visit her online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com.
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