Spring delivers a scintillating selection of foods to Northwest cooks. In the spirit of the new beginnings that this season inspires, the recipes for our seasonal feast feature a bevy of bold flavors and tantalizing techniques.
Our appetizer recipe comes from Andina, a novo (new) Andean restaurant in Portland's Pearl District. I fell in love with Mama Doris's Mango Verde y Langostinos (Green Mango and Prawn Ceviche), which you make by blanching three-quarters of a pound of peeled, deveined, large shrimp in boiling salted water.
Shock the shrimp in cold water, pat dry and place in a large, nonreactive bowl. Rinse one-half pound of thinly sliced green (unripe) mango and six ounces of thinly sliced red onion in cold water, pat dry and add to the shrimp. Season to taste with kosher salt. Add five to six very thin pieces of habañero pepper, one-half teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro, one-quarter cup passion fruit juice (or puree) mixed with one-half cup of water and one cup of freshly squeezed lime juice. Stir gently, spoon the ceviche into lettuce cups and garnish with boiled sweet potato and yucca slices and fresh corn kernels.
Bergstrom 2004 Pinot Gris ($18) from the Willamette Valley makes "a fine pairing" with Mango Verde, according to Andina's general manager, Ken Collura. "This white is packed with ripe fruit, but is crisp enough to offset the spiciness of the dish," he notes. Tropical-fruit aromas and flavors, along with citrus notes, complement the exotic ceviche recipe, while a rich mouth feel and a bit of vanilla spice keep things lively.
Matt's in the Market (a Pike Place Market favorite) provided the recipe for our first course-Mussels with Arugula, Shiitake Mushrooms and Sugar Snap Peas. Begin by heating two tablespoons of olive oil in a stockpot over medium-high heat. Add six ounces cleaned and quartered shiitake mushrooms, three tablespoons chopped shallots, one teaspoon chopped garlic and one-half teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes.
Cook two to three minutes, stirring frequently, then add one cup peeled, seeded and chopped plum tomatoes and two pounds scrubbed and debearded mussels and stir well. Add one cup fresh arugula cut into one-quarter-inch strips, one-half pound sugar snap peas and one cup dry white wine and stir well. Cover and bring to a gentle boil, then cook five to seven minutes, or until the mussels open. Discard any unopened mussels and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Pair the mussels with Parma Ridge Vineyards 2002 Reserve Chardonnay ($17) from Idaho. This complex, beautifully crafted Chardonnay is aged in new American and French oak barrels. Citrus and pineapple aromas and flavors meld nicely with not-too-oaky overtones that effortlessly cut through the musky richness of the mussels, the slight bite of the arugula and the earthy goodness of the shiitakes.
While lamb is a traditional springtime dish, Lamb Burgers with Balsamic Onions, a recipe from Cafe Campagne in the Pike Place Market, presents a fresh new way to prepare it. Make the burgers by gently mixing one-and-one-half pounds of lean ground lamb, two teaspoons chopped garlic and one-half teaspoon each dried rosemary, crushed red pepper flakes and freshly ground black pepper in a large nonreactive bowl.
Shape the meat into four patties and cook to desired doneness on the grill or under the broiler. Place the burgers on good-quality hamburger rolls, layer with balsamic onions and roasted red peppers and drizzle with aioli (garlic mayonnaise), recipes you'll find in the Pike Place Market Cookbook, Second Edition (page 98).
Pair the garlic-y good burgers with the Zerba Cellars 2003 "Wild Thing" Walla Walla Valley red wine ($19). This blend (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 18% Syrah and 2% Cabernet Franc) lives up to its name in all the right ways. You'll be bowled over by aromas and flavors of dark fruit (blackberries, huckleberries) and spice, yet the smooth tannins, firm structure and well-integrated oak help keep the beast at bay.
We finish our spring soiree with Citrus Trio, a recipe from The Spanish Table in the Pike Place Market, as reprinted from the exciting The Spanish Table Cookbook (2005). Whisk one-quarter cup freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice with two tablespoons membrillo (quince paste) until it reaches the consistency of heavy cream. Using a sharp knife, remove the outer skin and white pith from four oranges and one grapefruit. Cut the citrus crosswise into slices, divide among individual plates and drizzle with the membrillo/lemon sauce. Using a clean vegetable peeler, shave large slices of Manchego cheese (traditional Spanish cheese from La Mancha) over the fruit.
With their enticing perfumey aromas and flavors, Muscat grapes always remind me of sunny tropical climes. So I've chosen Tualatin Estate 2004 Semi-Sparkling Frizzante ($17) from the Willamette Valley to pair with Citrus Trio. This Muscat-based dessert wine explodes with aromas of peaches, citrus rind, white flower blossoms and papaya. A slight spritz and fresh acidity balance the sweetness and set you up for a clean, crisp finish.
All of which causes me to raise a glass and say, ¡Vamos a cocinar (Let's cook)!
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