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  • It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."

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Thursday, Dec. 15, 2005

Tailgating through wine country

Sex and the City's Carrie Bradshaw had "The Russian." New York Times food writer Amanda Hesser cooked for "Mr. Latte." And I, a fledgling wine columnist, have "The German." He's quirky and eccentric - an avid wine collector, an authority on antique Meissen porcelain and a fervent German enthusiast (born in Switzerland to German parents).

Much like the father in My Big Fat Greek Wedding who related the roots of everything back to Greece, so too does The German. From croissants to Quiche Lorraine - "French yes, now. But both had their origins from Germany."

You get the gist.

It was time for our annual Pinot expedition through Oregon's Yamhill County. Seven friends gathered in Portland as we watched an extremely white, shockingly stretched limo maneuver into the driveway.

On this typical rainy Saturday, the Oregon Ducks (my alma mater) were playing the Cal Bears (the German's alma mater), so we felt we had a vested interest in the outcome.

Game on! The limo shook as we poured ourselves in, balancing platters of cheese, bottled water and baskets of bread. We settled in as muted cheers from fans at Autzen Stadium piped through the speakers. Our driver, Capt. Allan, pointed the bow south, and we headed to the open freeway toward the wineries of Carlton.

We arrived at the Carlton Wine Studio and disembarked, amidst heavy rain and hail. Our first flight was a mixture of whites. Each on its own was unoffensive, conservative and conforming - no gambles taken here. The Hamacher nonvintage "H" Chardonnay hinted at mint, pear and blossom. Lovely for a summer day, but we were getting drenched and needed something more chewy. We wanted bold - something that tangled our eyelashes and roared "Wake Up!"

The next flight was a palette of reds. The Andrew Rich 2003 Malbec was a bright ruby shade full of dry spice and celery. It was velvety smooth, and we devoured it.

Eric Hamacher, a blonde, blue-eyed Californian who seems to have adapted well as a jean-and-fleece-wearing Oregonian, gave us a complete tour of the wine studio, including the floor-to-ceiling, two-story climbing wall. The stainless-steel tanks were filtering, simmering, bubbling and doing their thing - immersed in the fermenting process. Eric said the studio houses 11 wineries and produces up to 18,000 cases. Andrew Rich is in the lead with nearly one-third of the total studio production.

Eric poured samples of the newly fermenting Pinot Gris, which he makes for Lazy River Vineyard. It looked like Hefeweissen and tasted like fresh apple cider - delicious! The German wanted to buy a barrel on the spot. We returned to the limo, and the Ducks led 10-7.

Our next stop was Cuneo Cellars. The tasting room buzzed with people. We began with the Cuneo 2003 Pinot Noir, a textured depth, a drinkable zest and a solid finish. The next wines were unique and harmonious. The 2003 Bricco, a blend, was an exciting combination of Sangiovese and Syrah; the 2003 Two Rivers Sangiovese was described by a comrade as "young and tight. Hot like a virgin." The woman pouring wine behind the bar retorted "... but with great potential." We all laughed, some blushed, and we toasted to indulgence. Back in the limo, at halftime, the score was tied 10-10.

Brian O'Donnell, owner and operator of Belle Pente, greeted us for our 2:30 appointment. He led us through his operation, described the 17 acres of vineyards abutting the winery and took us down to the cellar.

He first poured the Belle Pente 2003 Chardonnay, a refreshing balance of buttery vanilla and cedar. It begged you to ask "More please?" and ended with a lingering finish of coconut, hazelnut and mineral. I considered whether I could pour this creamy concoction over popcorn and create the "latest" trend in movie snacks. Is it wine? Is it popcorn? Does it matter? Watch the movie!

The 2003 Gewürztraminer, a favorite of The German's, was rock-hard grapefruit, with super nectarine and some peach. It had a mouthwatering feel of fuel and must - and a fantastic finish. It lingered like a house guest whose stay was made too comfortable.

Back in the limo, the score was tied again 20-20 and going into overtime. As we headed back to Portland, The German and I recalled another recent Dundee wine trip to Domaine Drouhin, Lange Winery and Domaine Serene - a dramatic chateau with a rumored price tag of $30 million.

An urban myth says the home of the estate's owners, Ken & Grace Evenstad, is regularly mistaken for the residence of celebrities Kurt Russell and Goldie Hawn. The Evenstads frequently receive letters of endearment from their admiring, yet misguided, fans and are sometimes mistaken by eager devotees as the couple's hired help.

Interesting ... curious ... or just simply odd, we concluded.

Finally, on our approach, the good news came. The Ducks had won by a field goal, 23-20. With four Ducks, two Huskies and one lonely, losing Bear onboard, the real celebration was just about to begin. Break out the Duck Pond!

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