Wednesday, Jun. 25, 2008

A most wonderful time of the year

By Braiden Rex-Johnson

For Northwest food and wine lovers, the most wonderful time of the year lives up to its billing with a plethora of dark leafy greens, potatoes and winter squash, regional shellfish (scallops, crab, oysters and mussels) and traditional fowl and game dishes.

Our season-centric menu begins with a gutsy wine from Oregon's Applegate Valley. Valley View Winery Anna Maria 2004 Viognier ($20) opens with big floral aromas and continues on the palate with lively flavors of peach and tropical fruits. A silky mouth feel and long finish will satisfy alone or make a perfect pairing with Weathervane Scallops in a Citrus Marinade from The Sustainable Kitchen (New Society Publishers, 2004), written by Stu Stein, executive chef of the Avalon Hotel & Spa and Rivers Restaurant in Portland.

Cut eight dry-packed Alaskan Weathervane sea scallops in half. Mix one-half cup extra virgin olive oil, one-quarter cup each tangerine (or orange) juice and grapefruit juice and one finely chopped shallot in a nonreactive bowl. In another nonreactive bowl, mix one-quarter cup crème fraîche, one teaspoon chopped fresh dill and two teaspoons American sturgeon caviar. Marinate the scallops in three-quarters cup of the citrus dressing for 20 minutes, turning every five minutes. Lightly toss one-half cup of baby chard leaves with the remaining dressing. Divide the chard among small plates, place the scallops on top and sprinkle with coarse sea salt (such as fleur de sel) and cracked black peppercorns. Drizzle the caviar mixture around the plates.

Hogue 2004 Gewürztraminer ($9) from the Columbia Valley is ripe and medium-bodied, with true varietal aromas and flavors of stone fruit, lychee, citrus blossom and rosewater. Because of its easy-sippin' personality and slight residual sweetness, I like to pair it with Romaine, Grapefruit and Toasted Almond Salad, a recipe served on the Spirit of Washington Dinner Train, an enjoyable way to experience Northwest cuisine while rolling through Woodinville wine country.

Make Mrs. Temple's Poppy Seed Dressing by mixing one-quarter cup granulated sugar, one-and-one-half tablespoons onion juice, one teaspoon dry mustard, one teaspoon salt and one-third cup apple cider vinegar in a blender. Gradually add one cup vegetable oil until smooth. Stir in one-and-one-half tablespoons poppy seeds. Toss the dressing with romaine lettuce leaves and garnish with grapefruit segments, toasted sliced almonds and thinly sliced onions marinated in red-wine vinegar and honey.

Forgeron Cellars 2004 Chardonnay ($22) from Washington's Columbia Valley is a beautifully crafted wine. In the nose, sweet honeysuckle mingles with citrus notes of lemon and lime. Lemon, pear and pineapple greet the palate, backed by wisps of mineral, spice and toast. Winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla suggests serving her wine with pumpkin bisque or scallops. Pan-Seared Chicken with Pomegranate Demi-Glace, a recipe served by the Lombardi's restaurants in the Seattle area, is my preferred pairing, perfect for the holiday table.

Mix one-half cup pomegranate juice, one-quarter cup pomegranate molasses, one teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, one chopped shallot and one-quarter teaspoon toasted and ground black pepper in a large resealable plastic bag. Add four skin-on boneless chicken breasts, seal the bag and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In an ovenproof pan large enough to hold the chicken without crowding, sear the breasts in olive oil until golden brown on one side. Turn and add par-boiled fingerling potatoes and cipollini onions. Cook 10 to 15 minutes, just until cooked through. Meanwhile, mix one-quarter cup honey, one teaspoon pink peppercorns and one-quarter cup each pomegranate juice and chicken demi-glace (available at upscale grocery stores) in a medium saucepan and reduce over medium heat to a sauce-like consistency. To serve, slice a chicken breast on the bias and center on a dinner plate. Arrange the vegetables around the meat, drizzle with the pomegranate sauce and garnish with minced flat-leaf parsley.

We conclude our holiday feast with Lot 2 Paradisos Red ($18) from Paradisos del Sol in the Yakima Valley. It's a lively blend of Lemberger (70%), which imparts raspberry, spice, and roundness, plus Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) for its blackberry and plum flavors, body and "grip." Winemaker Paul Vandenberg likes Lemberger-based wines paired with Italian and Mexican cuisine, handmade sausages from Glondo's (www.glondos.com) in Cle Elum, Wash. or anything flavored with chipotle chiles. Hence, he created Goofy Cake à la Paul.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, sift together three cups all-purpose flour, one cup granulated sugar, three-quarters cup cocoa powder, two teaspoons baking soda, one-and-one-half teaspoons salt, one-half teaspoon ground chipotle and one-quarter teaspoon ground cinnamon. In a small mixing bowl, mix three quarters cup vegetable oil, three tablespoons red wine, three teaspoons pure vanilla extract and two cups water. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, add the wet ingredients and stir just until combined. Pour into an ungreased 9-by-12-inch baking pan and bake 30 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out almost clean. Pair the spicy-dark cake with the fruit-rich wine and indulge in the most wonderful time of the year.

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