Waterbrook, one of Walla Walla's largest and oldest wineries, doesn't get the same press and high prices as the dozens of boutique producers that have popped up in the past half-decade. But under the direction of owner Eric Rindal, it still makes some of the valley's best wines.
And while nearby wineries trumpet their huge reds, Waterbrook quietly keeps turning out a balanced lineup of approachable reds and whites.
This certainly was evident when I recently tasted Waterbrook's Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier and more. What struck me immediately was that the priciest wine was under $30 and several were closer to $10 or $15.
Since its inception two decades ago, Waterbrook has grown to nearly 50,000 cases. Part of this is thanks to an inexpensive red blend called Melange that has earned rave reviews in competitions and international wine publications, including No. 84 on one magazine's top 100 wines in the world last year.
All of this is pretty humble stuff for Rindal, who got his start working in the cellar of L'Ecole No. 41 for founders Baker and Jean Ferguson. In 1983, Eric built a garage-like winery about two miles south of L'Ecole in the middle of some alfalfa fields near Frog Hollow Road.
Asked why he didn't name his new winery Frog Hollow, Rindal said he felt Waterbrook was closer to the native meaning of Walla Walla (a Nez Perce phrase that means "running water").
Today, the tasting room is in downtown Walla Walla.
Today, Rindal has turned over many of the day-to-day winemaking duties to John Freeman, a San Francisco native who grew up in the Napa Valley. This allows Rindal to spend more time in the vineyards. He's a firm believer in diversity of grapes and is not concerned with having all estate-grown Walla Walla fruit. He buys grapes from Red Mountain, the Yakima Valley and the Columbia Valley.
A tasting of older and new Waterbrook wines shows Rindal and Freeman to be among the best in the Walla Walla Valley. Of the following, wines listed with prices are available for sale.
1992 Columbia Valley Merlot: Here is a Merlot that has aged well. Mostly from Red Mountain fruit, it still has intense chocolate and deep rich berry characteristics. There are hints of rosemary and still plenty of vigor.
1994 Merlot, Columbia Valley: An earthy wine showing aromas and flavors of dried fruit, tar and pencil shavings.
1998 Merlot, Columbia Valley: Loaded with aromas of tar and oak, with round flavors of dark cherries and bittersweet chocolate.
2002 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $18: This new release is rich in aromas of vanilla and cherries, followed by bold berry flavors and a lingering finish.
1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: This shows classic black currant and sweet pipe tobacco, plus luscious flavors of berries and dark chocolate. Still plenty of juicy fruit in this 10-year-old wine.
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $19: A big, bold red with aromas of almonds and dark fruit, followed by complex flavors of cranberries and black raspberries. Impressive balance of fruit, tannin and acidity.
2000 Meritage, Red Mountain, $28: This blend of Cab Franc, Cab, Merlot and Petit Verdot is a richly layered red with aromas of dusty cherries and hints of chocolate that lead to a bold finish.
2002 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $20: Voluptuous and jammy with aromas of smoked meat and flavors of juicy strawberries and blackberries. Ever so smooth.
1997 Melange, Columbia Valley: This was an experiment that caught the public's fancy. It's a blend of Merlot, Cab, Sangiovese and Cab Franc. A tasty wine loaded with aromas and flavors of black olives and blackberries.
2003 Melange, Columbia Valley, $13: A fruit-laden red that is beautifully balanced and showing youthful tannins. A perfect wine for Tuesday night meatloaf.
2003 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $11: Hints of oak meld with rich tropical fruit and apple flavors. A delicious and affordable wine.
2003 Viognier, Walla Walla Valley, $20: Waterbrook was a Viognier pioneer in Washington, and Rindal continues to craft some of the state's best. (It ranked high in our judging on Page 70.) This provides aromas of vanilla and oranges and flavors of tropical fruit.
2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $11: A wine that reminds us just how good Washington Sauvignon Blanc can be, this opens with inviting aromas and flavors of lemons and sweet herbs.
2003 Sangiovese Rosé, Columbia Valley, $13: A top wine in our Rosé judging last summer, this is a gorgeous wine to look at and taste. It's like sipping sweet berries with a crisp, bone-dry finish.
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