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The way things are going in Washington these days, the above headline needs a bit more information - because it seems like a Walla Walla winery is opening a second tasting room in Woodinville about every other week.
ROHNERT PARK, Calif. — Northwest wineries fared well at the 2010 Grand Harvest Awards, an international wine competition staged by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine.
Montinore Estate, the Forest Grove, Ore., winery with the funny name, has had a change in direction the past six years, and that's great for wine drinkers.
"We decide to go for quality rather than quantity," said Jacques Tardy, Montinore's Burgundy-born winemaker.
And improve it has: In the past year, Wine Press Northwest has awarded three Montinore wines its coveted "Outstanding" rating in blind tastings.
Montinore is on a century-old 585-acre estate complete with turn-of-the-century buildings. It was established by an attorney who came to work in Oregon but still pined for his beloved Montana, so he named his estate "Montana-In-Oregon" or "Montinore."
Today, the estate is one of Oregon's most attractive wineries. Located at the end of an oak tree-lined lane on a hillside covered with wine grapes, the original estate house is similar to the old Stimson house at Chateau Ste. Michelle and is a museum unto itself.
The first wines were made by the estate's new owners in 1987 in another facility, then shifted two years later to Montinore. Tardy came aboard as winemaker in 1990.
A total of 232 acres are planted to Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. Like a lot of Oregon wineries, Montinore made Chardonnay but soon found Pinot Gris was a much more suitable wine to make and sell. The winery used to sell 75 percent of its wines in Oregon and Washington, but now it sells 75 percent outside the Pacific Northwest.
By 1997, volumes reached 67,000 cases, making Montinore one of Oregon's biggest wineries. Then came an epiphany - urged on by Tardy - to cut back on yields and production and increase quality.
"We really worked hard in the vineyards to get the best grapes for harvest, and today our production is between 35,000 and 40,000 cases," Tardy said.
Tardy, whose family has vineyards and a winery in Burgundy, came to America for love, having married an American woman. He became a U.S. citizen in April, and France's loss is Oregon's gain, as he has the touch with Pinot Noir, the chief grape of Burgundy.
Montinore makes five Pinot Noirs, ranging from the $13 estate to vineyard-designated bottles at $30. That's still considered a bargain in Oregon, where many wineries charge $50 and up for their for a top Pinot Noir.
While Pinot Noir may be the winery's forté, it is the dry and sweet Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and even a Müller-Thurgau also receive exclamations.
Tardy has brought Müller-Thurgau to new heights with sweet and a semi-sweet styles. When properly handled, this cool-climate grape can be as exotic, aromatic and flavorful as any Riesling.
Here is a sampling of some old and new Montinore wines. Those with prices are available for sale:
1987 White Riesling shows the dark amber color of age yet has attractive apricot and hazelnut aromas and flavors. A good conversation wine with essences of golden raisins. Sweet with 15.2 percent residual sugar.
1993 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer has 6.6 percent residual sugar. Very attractive with candied ginger spice along with mango flavors. Nice citrus crispness.
1994 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley: Quite a lively and lovely wine with cherry aromas, a silky mouth feel, good acidity and tannins and appealing nuances of oak.
1999 Late Harvest Müller-Thurgau is showing candied fruit with flavors Mandarin oranges along with sweet honeyed pears. Sweet, tangy and delicious. $15.
2000 Graham's Block 7 Pinot Noir: Dark bing cherries with concentrated currants and some mocha. Complex and rich. $30.
2000 Pierce's Elbow Pinot Noir: Fine aromatics with cedar and violets. A big, chewy wine showing cherries and raspberries with a touch of pralines. $30.
2001 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer has 7.2 percent residual sugar. Spicy aromas with tongue-coating flavors of citrus, banana and ginger and some dried herbs.
2002 Riesling: At 1.3 percent residual sugar, this is a great match with foods. Very crisp and lively with exotic apricots and citrus flavors. $8.
2002 Pinot Gris: Wonderful floral and tree fruit aromas and flavors, including ripe pears. Smooth and tangy. $12.
2002 Entre Deux Pinot Gris: A single-vineyard blockbuster with deep straw color and ripe pear and pineapple characteristics. Crisp and rich. A perfect match for a hazelnut-encrusted halibut. $15 at the winery.
2002 Müller-Thurgau is a big hit at the tasting room, and it's easy to see why. Consumer friendly with wonderful fruitiness. Peach and some citrus in perfect harmony with great acidity. $6.
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