Nothing signals the end of a long Northwest winter and the promise of spring as gloriously as the reappearance of the fresh foods of the season - baby peas, delicate spring greens and herbs, pink singing scallops, lamb, morel mushrooms, strawberries and rhubarb.
With "fresh" in mind, we begin our spring feast with a lovely Chateau Benoit 2002 White Riesling ($12) from the Willamette Valley. Produced from grapes grown in a 25-year-old estate vineyard, the classic wine displays a clear pale straw color with hints of honey, green apple and citrus on the nose. Pear and apple flavors in the mouth combine with a hint of sweetness on the midpalate, which makes this a pleasant sipper on its own. But for a real treat, pair it with Seared Scallops with Crème Fraîche and Paddlefish Caviar, a recipe adapted from The Best American Recipes 2003-2004 (Houghton Mifflin, 2003).
To make the scallops, heat a teaspoon of vegetable oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Cut 12 large, dry-pack sea scallops horizontally into two rounds, season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, and cook two minutes, or until golden on the bottom. Turn and cook one minute more. Drain on paper towels and cool to room temperature. Top each scallop with a half-teaspoon crème fraîche, a dollop of paddlefish caviar and a one-inch length of fresh chive.
With its pale straw color and appealing bouquet of peach, honey and vanilla, Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2002 Chardonnay Arthur (pronounced "ar-tour") ($25) from the Willamette Valley sings spring. This fetching Chardonnay exhibits the crisp acidity and structured mineral undertones that pair so well with the foods of the season, especially morels.
To make Fresh Morels Simmered in Cream, a recipe from Dungeness Crabs and Blackberry Cobblers (Alfred A. Knopf, 1991), sauté two peeled and minced shallots in three tablespoons of butter for five minutes, or until the shallots begin to soften. Add a pound of trimmed, vertically sliced morels, a cup of homemade or reduced-sodium canned beef stock and a half-cup of heavy cream and cook over medium heat until the sauce thickens, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper and serve over toast points or grilled polenta.
Our main-course wine, Novelty Hill Winery 2000 Merlot ($25) from the Columbia Valley, is a clear, deep purple with black cherry, raspberry and mocha aromas and flavors, medium acids, an inviting undercurrent of oak and a long, multi-layered finish. Chosen "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest, this Merlot pairs perfectly with an equally prize-worthy recipe from Food for All Seasons: Savory Recipes from the Pacific Northwest (Chronicle Books, 1990).
To make Roast Lamb Loin with Wild Greens and Red Currants, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut two pounds of well-trimmed boneless lamb loin into four even pieces and let them sit at room temperature 15 minutes. Heat a heavy skillet to smoking, add one tablespoon of peanut oil and sear the lamb on all sides. Discard the oil, add two garlic cloves and four thyme sprigs and roast the lamb for eight minutes (for medium rare). Remove the lamb from the pan and keep warm.
Now add a half-cup of lamb (preferable) or beef stock, scraping up any bits on the bottom of the pan, and boil until reduced to one tablespoon. Add another half-cup of stock, plus a cup of fresh or frozen red currants and mash with a spoon. Reduce to a glaze, then add one more cup of stock and reduce until the sauce barely coats a spoon. Strain, pressing all the liquid from the currants. Slice the lamb, spoon the sauce around it, garnish with fresh thyme sprigs and serve with sautéed wild greens (such as mâche, mizuna and dandelion).
We conclude our spring fling with an award-winning quaff from British Columbia's Okanagan Valley. Jackson-Triggs Vintners 2001 Grand Reserve Riesling Ice Wine ($70 Canadian) exhibits aromas and flavors of apples, apricot and honey, balanced by pleasing acidity and a silky finish. To mirror the lush texture of the wine, while contrasting slightly with its fruit notes, I like to serve it with Strawberry-Rhubarb Fool, a recipe from my fourth book, Inside the Pike Place Market, Page 108.
Begin by placing a cup of lowfat vanilla yogurt in a fine-mesh sieve placed over a bowl and lined with a paper coffee filter. Drain in the refrigerator for one hour. Coarsely chop a pint of strawberries and three-quarters of a pound of rhubarb. Cover and cook over medium-high heat five to seven minutes, then uncover and simmer eight to 10 minutes, or until only a few lumps remain. Add a quarter-cup of honey (stirring well) and a pint of chopped strawberries and cook over medium heat three to five minutes. Taste and add more honey if necessary, then cool the mixture. Add the drained yogurt to the strawberry mixture, stirring well. Gently fold in a cup of stiffly whipped cream, spoon into dessert dishes and garnish with fresh mint sprigs. Time to toast to the fresh promise of spring!
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