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  • It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."

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Wednesday, Oct. 09, 2002

New Walla Walla-area wineries offer fresh tastes

In the early days of this twice-a-month column, I could keep up with all the new wineries.

And I regularly spent a whole column on a single new winery after sampling five or six of its wines.

That's a luxury that doesn't exist now. Three to five new wineries seem to pop up every month, each offering five or six wines.

The solution is to drink more wine - a welcome challenge - and to lump together wineries in my columns.

I make a concentrated effort to keep up on wineries on this side of the Cascades, but it's tough. For example, I recently got together with winemaker Charlie Hoppes, who is coming out with his own label, Fidelitas, and is consulting at Canon de Sol and three other new wineries. In the old days, that would have been enough for five columns. Now, all five will end up in one.

Today's column focuses on six wines from six new Walla Walla-area wineries: Rulo Winery, Yellow Hawk Cellar, Whitman Cellars, Colvin Vineyards, Saviah Cellars and Cougar Crest Winery.

Rulo Winery 2001 Viognier, Columbia Valley, $18 - Located near the Oregon state line not far from the new Pepper Bridge and Glen Fiona wineries, Rulo also makes a Chardonnay and Syrah. The Viognier was exotic, creamy and delicious, with flavors like a mint julep that had citrus underpinnings. The aromas reminded me of gardenia.

Yellow Hawk Cellar 2001 Muscat Canelli, Columbia Valley, $12 - Also south of Walla Walla toward the state line. Yellow Hawk also makes a Sangiovese and a Ros. The Muscat Canelli was refreshing and stunning. Vanilla bean and floral aromas with a wonderful balance of pineapple and tropical fruit flavors. This is a terrific brunch wine.

Colvin Vineyards 2000 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $26 - Also near the state line south of Walla Walla, Colvin makes two other excellent reds, a Merlot and Syrah. The Cabernet Franc shows sweet, vanilla oak aromas with delicious dark berry flavors. It's chalky and has nice tannins.

Saviah Cellars 2000 Une Vallee, Columbia Valley, $25 - Also south of Walla Walla, Saviah makes a Syrah and a red table wine called Une Vallee, a blend of 62 percent cabernet sauvignon, 29 percent merlot and 9 percent cabernet franc. Huge, delicious flavors with great oak and berry components. Smooth and satisfying.

Cougar Crest Winery 2001 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $28 - A new airport winery that will be coming out with its first wines in December. This is a very nice Syrah with fresh strawberry aromas and berry flavors. Easy drinking now but a bit youthful. It should be even better in December.

Tri-Cities Wine Festival

It's nearly time for the annual Tri-Cities Wine Festival, which will be from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Nov. 9 at the WestCoast Pasco Hotel.

There is also a gourmet dinner at 7 p.m. Nov. 8 at the WestCoast Tri-Cities Hotel in Kennewick featuring wines of the world for $65 a person. On Nov. 2, a seminar starting at 11 a.m. will feature France's Rhone Valley wines, including syrahs. Cost is $30 a person.

For ticket information, call 509-375-3399

New releases

Hedges Cellars 1999 Three Vineyards, Red Mountain, $20 - Outstanding. A classic Bordeaux blend with nice berry and plum aromas. Flavors include bittersweet chocolate and black fruit. Chalky with a flavorful finish.

Covey Run Vintners 2000 Cab-Merlot, Washington, $9 - Berry aromas, a bit tart on the tongue yet smooth and very drinkable.

Covey Run Vintners 2000 Lemberger, Yakima Valley, $7 - An easy-drinking, smooth wine perfect for spaghetti. It has light, fruity aromas with a bit of vanilla.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley $37 - Outstanding. Sweet oak aromas set the palate up for a thrill of currants, dark plums and smooth tannins. Chalky with a nice balance of fruit and oak.

Columbia Crest 1999 Grand Estates Merlot, Columbia Valley, $11 - Outstanding and a best buy. Brooding oak and berry aromas with huge flavors, including blueberries, chocolate and even a slight bell pepper touch. It's hard to find a merlot this good for the money.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 1999 Cab-Merlot, Columbia Valley, $11 - Earthy oak with black pepper aromas. Dark fruit flavors, lots of tannins for structure with a satisfying, balanced finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 1999 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $29 - Outstanding. A very complex rich wine showing a charred oak beginning with coffee and blackberries. Easy drinking with a long, silky finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2001 Gewrztraminer, Columbia Valley, $8 - Outstanding. Spicy pineapple aromas with orange peel flavors. Perfectly balanced, huge fruit and a crisp finish.

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