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  • It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."

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Wednesday, Sep. 11, 2002

McCrea Cellars shining on state wine scene

McCrea Cellars, one of the rising stars on the Washington wine scene, excels at Syrah, making up to five different styles.

Winemaker Doug McCrea is a member of the Rhone Rangers, a group of mostly California winemakers dedicated to the making and fostering of wines that originated from the Rhone Valley of France.

Besides Syrah, McCrea makes a Viognier, a white wine, and is dabbling with more exotic Rhone varieties including Mourvedre, Marsanne, Rousaune and Counoise.

All of these varieties are grown in the Rhone River Valley on the opposite side of France from the more famous Burgundy and Bordeaux regions.

Rhone wines are know for robust, darkly colored, fruity reds and full-flavored whites that start with the Cotes du Rhone in the north and wind through the famous Hermitage. This region is named after a French nobleman who joined the Crusades and built a castle and became a hermit when he returned to France.

But enough of history and geography talk, let's get on to the McCrea wines.

McCrea has his winery at Rainier, a tiny rural town near Olympia, but sources all his grapes from excellent vineyards in Eastern Washington, including Red Mountain, the Yakima Valley and new vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills near Alderdale.

He's been making finely crafted syrahs probably longer than anyone else in the Pacific Northwest except David Lake of Columbia Winery, who is credited with making the first Washington syrah back in the late 1980s.

"The one thing that stands out to me with a finely crafted syrah is it is immediately pleasurable and attractive," he said.

McCrea Cellars 2000 Amerique Syrah, Yakima Valley, $34 - Made of a mix of American and French oak, hence the name. Upfront toasty oak aromas with distinctive Australian Shiraz overtones. Mellow and juicy. Voted outstanding by Wine Press Northwest panel.

McCrea Cellars 2000 Boushey Grande Cote Vineyards, Yakima Valley, $35 - Nice coffee aromas along with mocha and sandalwood spice. Rich blueberry flavors. Smooth with a great finish.

McCrea Cellars 1999 Cuvee Orleans Syrah, $50 - The top of the line that is co-fermented with a bit of Viognier. Very aromatic with raspberry jam, lots of depth. Very youthful but smooth and pleasing.

McCrea Cellars 2000 Syrah, Yakima Valley, $35 - Over the top with flavors and aromas. Classic jammy mid palate with a creamy chocolate finish. Voted outstanding by Wine Press Northwest panel.

McCrea Cellars 2000 Viognier, Yakima Valley, $21 - White flower aromas with hints of jasmine, honeysuckle and lichee nut and bosch pears. A complex palate pleaser.

McCrea Cellars 2000 LaMer, Yakima Valley, $14 - A blend of Viognier and Chardonnay has a distinctive characteristics with exotic fruit mixed with peach and apricot. Nice, crisp and rich. A great match for rich shellfish such as lobster, scallops and crab.

McCrea 2001 Vin Ros, Yakima Valley, $14 - A fruity pleasing blend of viognier and grenache with a splash of syrah. Serve chilled for a picnic. It has a nice, strawberry component and a satisfying, crisp farewell.

New releases

Barnard Griffin Winery 2001 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $11 - Outstanding! Tasty toasty oak aromas marry with lovely tropical fruit flavors. Rich and buttery with good acids and structure to tingle the palate.

Hyatt Vineyards 2001 Riesling, Yakima Valley, $8 - Nice grapefruit aromas and flavors. Sweet and crisp with hints of pears and peaches.

Goose Ridge Vineyard 2000 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $20 - The first release by a new Washington Winery near Goose Gap not far from Richland. Toasty oak and herbaceous aromas with some citrus and a tart finish.

Dunham Cellars 2000 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $45 - Outstanding! Eric Dunham has the magic touch with a wide range of reds. Light toast and inviting oak aromas give way to supple berry flavors with a delightful farewell.

Cascade Cliffs 2000 Nebbiolo estate grown, Columbia Valley $25 - A Columbia Gorge winery that specializes in different grapes. Earthy with sweet oak aromas. Complex raspberry and cherry flavors laced with spices.

Columbia Winery 2001 Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley, $7 - Grapefruit aromas and flavors, very tangy with some tropical fruit. A bit soft.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2001 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $13 - More crisp than anything else. It lacked real varietal fruity flavors.

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