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It has long been rumored that the few rows of vines at the entrance to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., were required so the winery could be called a "chateau."
PROSSER -- Construction is expected to start soon on the next phase of what backers say will be the state's premier educational and promotional center for Washington's wines and food products.
Despite all the talk of the youth of Washington's wine industry, it's worth noting that Columbia Winery is celebrating 40 years in the wine business.
The event began underground in the Woodinville winery's cellars with a sampling of vintage wines and ended with a gourmet dinner and a gorgeous view from the restaurant atop Seattle's Space Needle.
Special guests at the celebration were members of the state and national wine media.
A sense of deja vu hit me when I recalled I was in the same location 20 years ago for Columbia's 20th anniversary. I think Columbia winemaker David Lake and I were the only ones at the June celebration who were there for the 20th anniversary in 1982.
Furthermore, I was on hand in 1962 as a young newspaper reporter when the Space Needle opened as the centerpiece of Seattle's Century 21 World's Fair.
The 605-foot-tall Space Needle has two restaurants today, one at the top and the other halfway up.
In 1966, Woodburne had given a bottle of grenache rose made in his garage to Leon Adams, a nationally known wine writer, who was visiting the state at the time to investigate the planting of vinifera grapes in the Yakima Valley.
Adams liked the wine and suggested Associated Vintners get an opinion from a good California enologist. There was no one better than Andre Tchelistcheff, who as it happened was coming to the Pacific Northwest.
Woodburne decided to invite Tchelistcheff for a salmon dinner and served the associates' homemade 1966 Gewurztraminer.
Tchelistcheff was astounded by its quality. He thought the salmon was fine but declared the Gewurztraminer the best he had tasted in America.
The Associated Vintners partners believed it was time to launch a commercial winery, making not only classic Gewurztraminers, but also reds, including cabernet sauvignon.
In 2002, production of Syrah by Columbia rose to 15,000 cases. "This is a trifling compared to the state's potential production," Lake said.
"I think we'll see considerable volumes of Washington Syrah priced in the $11-$14 range in the future as well as the top-end bottling. Syrah seems relatively easy to grow and ripen in Washington and can make fine quality, competitive wines across the stylistic and price spectrum," Lake said.
Sauer also put in some experimental rows of Viognier in 1993. A half-barrel, the first in Washington, was made in 1995.
Columbia also was the first winery in the Yakima Valley to make Pinot Gris, a variety that is taking off throughout the Pacific Northwest. In Oregon, it is the No. 1 white wine.
Other new varieties are an experimental Mourvedre planted in 1993. It ripens late but has tremendous raspberry and fresh black pepper fruit, Lake said.
A new wine with a lot of promise is 2001 Alder Ridge Barbera, a charming, easy-drinking red with plenty of raspberry flavor, fine body and smooth on the tongue and palate. This variety is a very popular wine at Cascade Cliffs Winery in the Columbia Gorge. Its success should encourage others to look closely at Barbera.
But the master of them all is still David Lake.
Taste some wines at state fair
For the first time, the Central Washington State Fair will be offering the public a chance to sample some of the award-winning wines from 32 wineries that took part in the annual Washington State Wine Competition that concluded June 30.
The July 13 tasting includes a gourmet barbecue, special desserts, live music and a wine auction. It will be held on the historic shaded fairgrounds in Yakima from 4 to 8 p.m. The cost is $75 per person.
For tickets, call the fair office at 509-248-7160 or Cynthia Daste at 425-643-2398.
New releases
These wines were tasted by the Wine Press Northwest magazine panel. The tasters do not know either the winery or the type of wine when they review a wine.
A wine must receive a unanimous vote to gain an outstanding rating.
Covey Run Vintners 2000 Fume Blanc, Washington, $9 - An outstanding sauvignon blanc in the smoky fume style. Big pineapple and citrus flavors with layers of dried fruit ending with nice apple and spices.
Salmon Harbor 2000 Merlot, Washington, $8 - Outstanding and a best buy. This is Hogue's second label of lower-cost wines. Big vanilla and herbal aromas with sweet blackberry and plum flavors. Rich and very approachable.
Hogue Cellars 2001 Late Harvest White Riesling, Columbia Valley, $12 - Outstanding. Perfect for brunch or dessert at 4.7 percent residual sugar and great acid balance. Flowery aromas, sweet apple flavors and a satisfying finish.
Columbia Winery 1999 Sangiovese, Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley, $25 - Outstanding. Vivid oak, cedar and vanilla aromas. Nice dried cherries and black fruit. Complex and rich with great acids and a silky plumpness to the finish.
Tamarack Cellars 2000 Firehouse Red, Columbia Valley, $18 - Outstanding. This easy-drinking red is made in an old firehouse at the Walla Walla Airport, but don't let its common surrounding fool you. This is a classic red blend of 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, 20 percent merlot, 17 percent syrah and 8 percent cabernet franc. Inviting espresso coffee and vanilla aromas greet you, followed by dark ripe Bing cherry flavors. The finish is smooth and lasting.
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