Tradition has a double meaning at Gordon Brothers Cellars in Pasco. It's the name of the winery's highest-end red blend wine and represents the tradition of family.
Everything about this 17-year-old Pasco winery is family tradition from the name of the owners Vicki and Jeff Gordon; the statement "Family Vineyards" on every label and even daughter Katie's name to specify a special vineyard for a sauvignon blanc.
Jeff and his brother Bill planted wine grapes in 1983 along the Snake River near Ice Harbor Dam. For years the winery was in a tiny facility near Jeff's home.
A new winery and tasting room were built in the 1990s off Road 68 in Pasco next to the Trade, Recreation and Agricultural Center. The actual winemaking operations soon outgrew the facility, so that part of Gordon Brothers was moved back to a new building at the Gordon farm. The tasting room and case storage are still next to TRAC.
Vicki says the neighboring soccer fields attract a lot of visitors to the area. During tournaments, the winery often sees soccer moms and dads stopping by to purchase wine. TRAC events also bring some business.
Jeff says he thinks what makes the Tri-City wineries a little different is the population here allows most wineries to be open year-round rather than just on weekends or for special events.
"When people visit us we can send them every day to Preston, Bookwalter, Barnard Griffin, Powers and a couple on Red Mountain," Jeff said.
Jeff bought out his brother in 1998 and has a full-time job as a farmer growing grapes and orchard fruit. That leaves Vicki to manage the rest of the winery operations.
He said having estate-grown grapes has its advantages and disadvantages. "The good thing is we can control what we get. The bad part is we have all our eggs in one basket if bad weather hits."
Last year the Gordons hired Andres Basso, a Chilean-trained enologist as winemaker. They expect great things from his skills.
Here is some evidence of Basso's skills:
Gordon Brothers 1999 merlot, estate-grown, Columbia Valley, $18. This luscious melt-in-your-mouth merlot has aromas of vanilla and coffee with bunches of chocolate. Smooth blackberry flavors make this easy to swallow.
Gordon Brothers 1999 cabernet sauvignon, estate-grown, Columbia Valley, $22. The smoky oak with ripe dark cherries flavor is a signature of the Gordon Brothers Vineyards. It's round and full-bodied, with great supple and smooth flavors.
The top-of-the-line Tradition is all sold out, but the 1999 should be bottled soon. This is a classic Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. The 1998 received rave reviews.
Gordon Brothers also makes a chardonnay and a late harvest gewrztraminer.
New releases
A wine must receive a unanimous vote to gain an outstanding rating.
Hells Canyon Winery 1999 cabernet sauvignon reserve, Idaho, $30 - Outstanding. Bright cherry, currants and oak aromas. Huge fruit forward flavors with bright fruit and great tannins for aging. A nice, tasty vanilla farewell.
Eaton Hills 2000 cabernet franc, Konnowak Vineyards, Yakima Valley, $12 - Outstanding. A big, fruity, lipsmacking red. Herbal and cedar aromas. Flavors of cherries, cranberries and plums. Lots of delicious, mouth-filling stuff here.
Kiona 2000 lemberger, Washington, $10 - A potpourri of aromas of cherry, cedar, plums and meat along with vanilla. Excellent mouth feel with nice berry flavors and smooth tannins.
Kiona 2000 merlot, Columbia Valley, $20 - Outstanding. Complex aromas of char oak and toast along with coffee lead to opulent flavors of dark berries. Chewy, smooth and rich.
Hells Canyon Winery 1999 merlot reserve, Idaho, $30 - Outstanding. Smoky and oaky along with a touch of dill and leather with great cherry extract flavors that linger and linger.
McCrea 2000 La Mer, Yakima Valley, $21 - Outstanding. An intriguing blend of chardonnay and viognier. Opening with floral, pear and apple aromas. Great body with wonderful supple flavors of concentrated fruit. Good mineral qualities and a lingering, crisp finish.
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