Saturday, Sep. 01, 2001

Best Northwest Wine Lists 2001

By Andy Perdue

If wine lists are any indication, Northwest wineries are gaining momentum with restaurateurs and consumers.

Wine Press Northwest's third annual Best Northwest Wine Lists competition drew nearly three times as many entrants as last year and, thus, rewarded many more restaurants for taking their Northwest selections seriously.

Readers who have followed previous years' winners will see a few changes among the top winners, as The Herbfarm edged out two-time winner Raincity Grill for our grand award. Also, last year's winner of Best Oregon Wine List, Atwaters in Portland, closed in February. And our two-time winner for best British Columbia Wine List, Cellar Door Bistro in Summerland, didn't enter this year because of a change in management.

The awards are separated into two parts: Best Wine List for the entire Northwest and each of the four regions, for which we give one award; and Outstanding Wine Lists, for which we give awards to all those the judges felt were deserving. Additionally, we've included a number of restaurants we want to recognize for their efforts at including Northwest wines on their lists.

One thing is certain: Diners won't have to look as far to find Northwest-friendly restaurants, especially as they get closer to the larger metropolitan areas.

Our panel of judges considered each restaurant's wine selections based on the quantity and quality of Northwest content. By-the-glass selections, presentation and price also were considered. The judges were Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest associate editor and restaurant writer; Loretto Hulse, longtime Northwest food and wine writer; and Andy Perdue, Wine Press Northwest editor.

Best Northwest Wine List

The Herbfarm, Woodinville, Wash. - The Herbfarm's storied history began in the early '70s when Ron Zimmerman's parents began selling herbs at the farm in Fall City, east of Seattle. In 1986, Ron and his wife, Carrie Van Dyke, opened the restaurant to much regional and national acclaim. Alas, in early 1997, fire destroyed the restaurant and put their dreams on hold. But they reopened in May 1999, using Hedges Cellars' tasting room in Issaquah.

Ron and Carrie have since sold the Fall City farm and opened the new Herbfarm Restaurant in Woodinville, near Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia wineries. The Herbfarm's commitment to local ingredients is incredible, and its nine-course dinner focuses on Northwest cuisine. Chef Jerry Traunfeld continuously racks up awards for his food artistry as well as his cookbook.

And oh, the wines! Each dinner is matched with five or six Northwest selections. And if that isn't enough, patrons can choose from the 700 Northwest selections from The Herbfarm's encyclopedic wine list, "if you just have to have your Leonetti," Ron says with a smile. The 10,000-bottle cellar is deep with the great wines of Washington and Oregon. His Oregon selection is the best we've seen, and his Washington choices are matched only by the Salish Lodge.

And Zimmerman is intimate with British Columbia and Idaho. He wants to expand his selection to include more Okanagan Valley wines, but politics and an international border have slowed his efforts. "I'd love to have Burrowing Owl and others here," he says. Some of B.C.'s cool-climate varieties are food friendly, he adds. And Idaho's high elevation makes for wonderful wines, especially chardonnay, he says. And "Ste. Chapelle riesling is one of the great bargains of the Western world."

If you're looking for some of the Northwest's rarest wines, look to The Herbfarm. You'll find Ste. Michelle's 1998 Single Berry Select, a trockenbeerenauslese-style dessert that will cost $450 for a half-bottle. Or the famous 1975 Eyrie Vineyards South Block pinot noir, the wine that catapulted Oregon into the international wine scene in 1979 at a famous Paris judging. That taste of history will run $750.

Reservations for The Herbfarm are recommended, often weeks in advance. But Ron says don't assume all seats are filled each night. And his Web site has a handy online reservation system.

The Herbfarm, 14590 N.E. 145th St., Woodinville, Wash. 206-784-2222. www.theherbfarm.com

Outstanding Northwest Wine Lists

Shoalwater Restaurant, Seaview, Wash. - With one of the consistently best wine lists in the Northwest, the Shoalwater thrives in this little town on Washington's Long Beach Peninsula. The Shoalwater, run by Tony and Ann Kischner, has gained fame for its wonderful cuisine, incredible wine list and great winemaker dinners. And its setting in the historic Shelburne Inn adds to the elegance. This is the Shoalwater's third consecutive Outstanding Northwest Wine List award.

Shoalwater Restaurant, 4415 Pacific Way, Seaview, Wash., 360-642-4142. www.shoalwater.com

Raincity Grill, Vancouver, B.C. - Twice a winner of our top award, the Raincity Grill has one of the most complete wine lists you're likely to see. Its focus on West Coast wines is incredible, and its by-the-glass selection is mind-boggling. Raincity's commitment to the wines of B.C., Washington and Oregon will make anyone an immediate fan.

Raincity Grill, 1193 Denman St., Vancouver, B.C .604-685-7337. www.raincitygrill.com

Cascadia Restaurant, Seattle - Cascadia is building its reputation as one of Seattle's top restaurants with its regional cuisine and superb wine selection. Sommelier Jake Kosseff is building a selection of Northwest wines that will please any palate.

Cascadia Restaurant, 2328 1st Ave., Seattle. 206-448-8884. www.cascadiarestaurant.com

Canlis, Seattle - Canlis, one of Seattle's finest restaurants for the past half-century, also has one of the top wine lists in the world. And its Northwest selection is marvelous. Its thick wine list heralds the finest wines from France and California alongside the best of the Northwest.

Canlis, 2576 Aurora Ave. N., Seattle. 206-283-3313. www.canlis.com

Best Washington Wine List

Salish Lodge & Spa, Snoqualmie, Wash. - For the third consecutive year, Salish Lodge has captured our award for the top Washington wine list. Cellarmaster Randy Austin is meticulous about finding the newest and best Washington wines, and his list is a who's who for the industry. Randy works closely with his chefs on food-wine pairings, and the fabulous view from the dining room atop Snoqualmie Falls makes Salish one of the premier dining experiences in the Northwest.

Salish Lodge & Spa, 6501 Railroad Ave. S.E., Snoqualmie, Wash. 425-888-2556. www.salishlodge.com

Outstanding Washington Wine Lists

Sundance Grill, Kennewick, Wash. - Being in the heart of Washington wine country certainly gives Dave Seibert an edge. He's quickly put Sundance on the wine list map with a dizzying array of by-the-glass choices and more than 100 by-the-bottle selections. This is Sundance Grill's second consecutive Outstanding Washington Wine List award.

Sundance Grill, 413 N. Kellogg, Suite B, Kennewick, Wash. 509-783-6505

Inn at Langley, Langley, Wash. - Chef and innkeeper Stephen Nogal has the best of everything that matters: world-class cuisine, a great location on Whidbey Island and a fabulous wine list. If more than 200 Washington selections weren't enough, the Inn at Langley also has an extensive half-bottle program, which gives diners an even greater opportunity to enjoy Northwest wines. And don't overlook Stephen's excellent Oregon choices. This is the Inn at Langley's second year on our list.

Inn at Langley, 400 First St., Langley, Wash. 360-221-3033. www.innatlangley.com

Ray's Boathouse, Seattle - One of Seattle's culinary favorites is Ray's, which makes our list for the second consecutive year. Ray's list is heavy on Washington and also has a laudable selection of Oregon wines. Wine Director Joseph Miglino works to ensure his list complements Ray's trademark seafood entrées.

Ray's Boathouse, 6049 Seaview Ave. N.W., Seattle. 206-789-3770. www.rays.com

Sun Mountain Lodge, Winthrop, Wash. - Nestled into the North Cascades is Sun Mountain Lodge, a first-time award winner in our competition. Heavy on Washington choices with about 150, its list also offers diners a smattering of Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho wines, too.

Sun Mountain Lodge, P.O. Box 1000, Winthrop, Wash. 509-996-4735. www.sunmountainlodge.com

Visconti's, Wenatchee & Leavenworth, Wash. - This Italian restaurant has two locations in Central Washington, and each is worthy of our Outstanding Washington Wine List award. The list is heavily weighted toward Washington and Italian wines. This is Visconti's first year in our competition.

Visconti's, 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Wenatchee, Wash. Visconti's at the Brewery, 636 Front St., Leavenworth, Wash. 509-548-1213. www.viscontis.com

Valley Café, Ellensburg, Wash. - Owner Gregory Beach has carved out an oasis in this cowboy town that is between Seattle and Eastern Washington's vineyards. As a result, many winemakers eat lunch and dinner at his Art Deco restaurant. And the list reflects his commitment to the Washington wine industry. Valley Café is a two-time winner of this award.

Valley Café, 105 W. 3rd, Ellensburg, Wash. 509-925-3050.

Queen City Grill, Seattle - This first-time award recipient offers tremendous depth on its wine list, and the Queen City Grill staff obviously takes great pride in searching out top Washington wines. It also has a respectable Oregon selection.

Queen City Grill, 2201 1st Ave., Seattle. 206-443-1552.

Metropolitan Grill, Seattle - A two-time award winner, Metropolitan Grill prides itself as much in its wine program as it does in its steaks. It has added three certified sommeliers in the past year and maintains a top-quality Washington wine selection.

Metropolitan Grill, 820 2nd Ave., Seattle. 206-624-3287.

Whitehouse-Crawford, Walla Walla, Wash. - If the wines aren't enough of an excuse to drive over the Cascades from Seattle, then Whitehouse-Crawford should be. This young restaurant in downtown Walla Walla is quickly earning a reputation as one of Eastern Washington's finest restaurants. Its list is heavy on Walla Walla - and why not with this region's exploding reputation as one of the finest red wine producers in the nation?

Whitehouse-Crawford, 55 Cherry St., Walla Walla, Wash. 509-525-2222.

Birchfield Manor, Yakima, Wash. - This first-time recipient of our award embraces Washington wineries with more than 200 selections and several half-bottle choices. Located in the gateway to Washington wine country, Birchfield is deserving of its great regional reputation for its cuisine, B&B accommodations and regional wine list.

Birchfield Manor, 2018 Birchfield Road, Yakima, Wash. 509-452-1960. www.birchfieldmanor.com

Washington Athletic Club, Seattle - Another first-time award winner, the Washington Athletic Club offers a list strong on Washington wines selected by the club's wine committee. The club's restaurants are open to members and their guests.

Washington Athletic Club, 1325 6th Ave., Seattle. 206-622-7900. www.wac.net

Place Pigalle, Seattle - Known for its seafood and romantic setting in the Pike Place Market, Place Pigalle also has an excellent wine list heavy on Washington favorites and plenty of Oregon selections. This is Place Pigalle's first time on our list of winners.

Place Pigalle, 81 Pike St., Seattle. 206-624-1756.

Spencer's for Steaks and Chops, Seattle - This first-time award winner offers diners a superb wine experience with its outstanding by-the-glass and half-bottle program and strong by-the-bottle selection. Just about a year old, Spencer's wine list is geared toward the menu's red meat emphasis. Spencer's is at the Hilton Seattle Airport & Conference Center.

Spencer's for Steaks and Chops, 17620 Pacific Highway S., Seattle. 206-248-4334.

Avenue One, Seattle - This French bistro-style favorite, a block from the Pike Place Market, runs a serious wine program that leans heavily on Washington selections. Owner and wine steward Arnie Millan not only is meticulous in his staff training, but he also regularly organizes winemaker dinners. This is Avenue One's first Wine Press Northwest award.

Avenue One, 1921 1st Ave., Seattle. 206-441-6139.

Cedars, Kennewick, Wash. - This favorite restaurant and watering hole on the Columbia River has a top Washington wine list to match its surf-'n'-turf menu. Cedars' list features locally produced wines as well as favorites from west of the Cascades. This is Cedars' first Wine Press Northwest award.

Cedars, 355 Clover Island Road, Kennewick, Wash. 509-582-2143.

Best Oregon Wine List

Joel Palmer House, Dayton, Ore. - Jack and Heidi Czarnecki love mushrooms. Anyone who's known them for more than five minutes will figure that out. Mushrooms are a centerpiece to their cuisine, as is Oregon wine. Their location in the heart of Oregon wine country reflects the selections on their list, which is nearly 100 percent Oregon, focused primarily on pinot noir. The family purchased the historic Joel Palmer House in 1996, and this is the restaurant's first award from Wine Press Northwest.

Joel Palmer House, 600 Ferry St., Dayton, Ore. 503-864-2995. www.joelpalmerhouse.com

Outstanding Oregon Wine Lists

Nick's Italian Café, McMinnville, Ore. - When you consider Oregon wine country, it's hard not to think of Nick's. This mainstay for nearly a quarter-century has embraced the Oregon wine industry, especially in Yamhill County. The wine list centers on Oregon selections - including many small, obscure producers - as well as several from Washington, France and, of course, Italy. A first-time entrant in our competition.

Nick's Italian Café, 521 N.E. 3rd St., McMinnville, Ore. 888-456-2511. www.nicksitaliancafe.com

Jacksonville Inn, Jacksonville, Ore. - The historic town of Jacksonville in the Rogue Valley is home to one of the most impressive wine lists you're likely to find. Because Jacksonville is so close to California, North America's largest wine-producing region is well represented. But so is the Northwest, with more than 100 Oregon choices and a strong Washington showing. This is the Jacksonville Inn's first entry in our contest.

Jacksonville Inn, 175 E. California St., Jacksonville, Ore. 541-899-1900. www.jacksonvilleinn.com

The London Grill at The Benson Hotel, Portland - This Portland establishment for a half-century rakes in awards for its international wine list, but this is its first entry in Wine Press Northwest's competition. This well-organized list makes Northwest wines - especially Oregon - a priority, and diners will not be disappointed.

The London Grill at The Benson Hotel, 309 S.W. Broadway, Portland. 503-295-4110.

The Peerless Restaurant, Ashland, Ore. - The restaurant in this historic hotel, built in 1900, has compiled a list strong on Oregon selections. Wineries from the Rogue and Umpqua valleys are well represented. This is the Peerless' first Wine Press Northwest award.

The Peerless Restaurant, 265 4th St., Ashland, Ore. 541-488-6067. www.peerlesshotel.com

Highlands Restaurant, Welches, Ore. - An hour outside of Portland at the base of Mount Hood is The Resort at the Mountain, home to Highlands Restaurant - a two-time winner in our competition. This list promotes Northwest wines, emphasizing Oregon's finest.

Highlands Restaurant, 68010 E. Fairway Ave., Welches, Ore. 503-622-3101. www.theresort.com

Red Star Tavern, Portland, Ore. - This new entrant into our competition has compiled a strong list of Northwest wines that includes many Oregon favorites. Its wine-by-the glass and half-bottle selection should be welcomed by consumers.

Red Star Tavern, 503 S.W. Alder, Portland, 503-222-0005.

Best British Columbia Wine List

CinCin, Vancouver, B.C. - CinCin's international wine list includes plenty of selections from the province and has an impressive suite of wines by the glass. CinCin has put together a collection sure to please its customers. This is CinCin's first year in our competition.

CinCin, 1154 Robson St., Vancouver, B.C. 605-688-7338. www.cincin.net

Outstanding British Columbia Wine Lists

Salmon House on the Hill, West Vancouver, B.C. - By concentrating on B.C. wines and a smattering from Washington, Oregon and Idaho, Salmon House has crafted a tremendous Northwest wine list. Its by-the-glass selection is splendid. Another first-time winner in our competition.

Salmon House on the Hill, 2229 Folkestone Way, West Vancouver, B.C. 604-926-3212. www.salmonhouse.com

O'Doul's Restaurant, Vancouver, B.C. - Located in the delightful Listel Vancouver Hotel, O'Doul's Restaurant is heavily influenced by Northwest products, and that's reflected in its fine wine list. Most impressive are its by-the-glass selections and the suggested matches with menu items.

O'Doul's Restaurant, 1300 Robson St., Vancouver, B.C. 604-661-1402. www.odoulsrestaurant.com

Best Idaho Wine List

The Wine Cellar Bistro, Coeur d'Alene, Idaho - Developing a wine list heavy with Idaho selections can be difficult. With a dozen producers - many of them small - the wines aren't easy to find and stock. This, of course, is changing as more restaurateurs and consumers begin to recognize the high quality of Idaho wines. Jimmy Duncan has done an outstanding job of integrating several Idaho wines into his list, which is heavy with West Coast selections and strong with famous Washington wines.

The Wine Cellar Bistro, 313 Sherman Ave., Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. 208-664-9463. www.coeurdalenewinecellar.com

Outstanding Idaho Wine Lists

Beverly's, Coeur d'Alene, Idaho - In North Idaho is the grand Coeur d'Alene Resort and its famous golf course with a floating green. Amid the glamour is Beverly's, a highly regarded restaurant on the seventh floor of the resort with a top-notch Washington wine list. This is Beverly's first time in our awards program.

Beverly's, 250 Northwest Blvd., Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. 208-765-4000. www.cdaresort.com

Mortimer's Idaho Cuisine, Boise, ID - Jon Mortimer has been building his reputation as a top Northwest chef for several years, and his wine list reflects his interests. His wide range of wine varieties gives his customers a great selection. He offers a lot of Washington choices, a good representation from Oregon, and Idaho wines by the glass. This is Mortimer's first year in our competition.

Mortimer's Idaho Cuisine, 1207 E. Lexington Ct., Boise. 208-338-6550.

You Won't Be Disappointed

Though the restaurants listed here didn't win a top award in our competition, we wanted to recognize them for the efforts to include Pacific Northwest selections. As we say, you won't be disappointed when you are handed their wine lists.

Papa Haydn 3829 S.E. Milwaukie Portland 503-291-8350

Clarkston Quality Inn 700 Port Drive Clarkston, Wash. 509-758-9500

Le Gourmand 425 N.W. Market St. Seattle 206-784-3463

Broken Top Club 62000 Broken Top Dr. Bend, Ore. 541-383-1963

Lonny's Restaurant 2330 Washington St. Port Townsend, Wash. 360-385-0700

Fullers 1400 Sixth Ave. Seattle 206-447-5544

Union Bay Café 3515 N.E. 45th Seattle 206-527-8364

The Lyle Hotel 100 7th St. Lyle, Wash. 509-365-5953

Salty's on Alki Beach 1936 Harbor Ave., S.W. Seattle 206-937-1600

Christina's 1 Main St. Eastsound, Wash. 360-376-4904

Rosario Resort 1400 Rosario Rd. Eastsound, Wash. 360-376-2222

Fleming's Steakhouse and Wine Bar 1100 3rd Ave. Seattle 206-587-5300

Garage Pool Hall 1130 Broadway, Seattle 206-322-2296

Andy Perdue is editor of Wine Press Northwest. He can be reached at 509-582-1564 or via e-mail at editor@winepressnw.com

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