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Wednesday, Jun. 05, 2002

Kestrel Vintners of Prosser gets noticed

Kestrel Vintners of Prosser dropped off my radar screen until recently, when the Wine Press Northwest magazine tasting panel sampled six Kestrel wines and deemed four of them "Outstanding."

All Wine Press Northwest tastings are double blind, meaning the variety and label are kept secret until ratings are completed. The team must reach consensus to give an outstanding designation.

I had written about Kestrel in 1999 when John and Helen Walker first opened it in Prosser, but with more and more new wineries coming on since then, it has been difficult to return.

I'm glad I finally found the time, however, because Ray Sandidge is making some of the best red wines I've tasted lately.

Today the winery's grapes come from their estate vineyard near Prosser, which includes some vines planted 30 years ago by Mike Wallace.

Sandidge said the winery's goal is to make wines with a bit of age, and they purposely hold back vintages for an extra year or two.

Kestrel Vintners 1998 Old Vines Signature Merlot, Yakima Valley, $50 - Also voted Outstanding. Showing complexity and depth from old, low yield vines that offer dark, bold aromas and flavors, especially blackberries and chocolate. Good cellar potential.

Kestrel Vintners 1999 Signature Series Syrah, Yakima Valley, $50 - A big red, with dark fruit and heavy toast aromas. The richly structured palate offers flavors of chocolate cake and big plums.

Kestrel Vintners 2000 Syrah, Yakima Valley, $28 - The Wine Press Northwest panel thought this less expensive syrah was the best, giving it an Outstanding designation. Sophisticated, rich flavors with a sturdy backbone of blackberries, coffee and leather. Has rich acidity and great aging potential.

Walla Walla college, artists to serve up wine

The Walla Walla Wine Alliance is joining with Whitman College and the arts community of Walla Walla for a three-day event June 21-23.

Twenty-eight Walla Walla wineries will be pouring wine from 4 to 7 p.m. June 21 at Whitman College.

Cost is $60 per person and will give the public one of the best chances so far to savor the wines of the Walla Walla region.

Some of the wineries taking part include Canoe Ridge, L'Ecole, Woodward Canyon, Leonetti, Cayuse, Pepper Bridge and Reininger. Some wineries will have some older vintages to sample.

Tickets can be purchased by calling 509-301-0185 or ordered off the Internet at tickets@artwalla.com.

New releases

These wines are tasted by a Wine Press Northwest magazine panel. The tasters do not know the winery nor the type of wine when reviewing. A wine must receive a unanimous vote to gain an "Outstanding" rating.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2000 Riesling, Cold Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley, $17 - Outstanding. A bit pricy for a riesling but worth it.

Excellent grapefruit and peach aromas and flavors. Big body to go with right-on acids. Long and delicious farewell.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $16 - Outstanding. Classic fruit aromas followed by vanilla and bittersweet chocolate. Nice black cherry flavors. Balanced and full bodied.

Columbia Crest 1999 Merlot-Cabernet, Columbia Valley, $11 - This is Columbia Crest's blend of the popular red's combination with emphasis on merlot. Juicy blackberry fruit oozes forward in a smooth-tasting drink.

Thurston Wolfe Winery 2001 Pinot Gris-Viognier, Columbia Valley, $13 - An unusual but tasty blend by this small Prosser winery. Clean, juicy fruit gum favors and a good rieslinglike crispness at the finish.

Covey Run Vintners 2000 Fume Blanc, Washington, $9 - An outstanding Sauvignon Blanc in the smoky fume style. Big pineapple and citrus flavors with layers of dried fruit ending with nice apple and spices.

Tamarack Cellars 2000 Firehouse Red, Columbia Valley, $18 - Outstanding. This easy-drinking red is made in an old firehouse at the Walla Walla Airport, but don't let its common surrounding fool you - this is a classic red blend of 55 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Merlot, 17 percent Syrah and 8 percent Cabernet Franc. Inviting coffee espresso and vanilla aromas greet you, followed by dark ripe Bing cherry flavors. The finish is smooth and lasting.

Nelms Road 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $20 - Outstanding. The second label for Woodward Canyon and a real bargain for a Rick Small Merlot. Loaded with stuff, Java pepper, cedar, mocha and even chai tea aromas followed by lip-smacking flavors of dark chocolate, plums and blackberries. A long, satisfying finish.

Salmon Harbor 2000 Merlot, Washington, $8 - Outstanding and a best buy. This is Hogue's second label of lower-cost wines. Big vanilla and herbal aromas with sweet blackberry and plum flavors. Rich and very approachable.

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