Saturday, Mar. 01, 2003

2003 Idaho Winery of the Year: Pend d'Oreille Winery

By Eric Degerman

There’s a certain “pow” associated with many of Stephen Meyer’s wines, which makes it easy to remember the Web address for Pend d’Oreille Winery — www.powine.com. Meyer first made his mark in Northwest wine circles with a gold medal at the 1997 Tri-Cities Wine Festival for his 1995 Merlot — his first commercial vintage. And he hasn’t slowed down.

Last summer, Meyer moved his operation from an industrial park north of town to downtown Sandpoint, Idaho, transforming what was once a brewery into a winery with a showpiece tasting room, wine shop and wine bar with light fare. It is believed to be the first wine bar at a winery in Idaho.

“This makes us a West Coast Offense for a winery — it allows us to run, pass and bootleg,” Meyer said with a chuckle. “It lends so much flexibility to us as winemakers and produces small runs of unique wines. It puts it right into the hands of consumers, rather than relying on traditional distribution channels.”

The move allowed him to increase case production from 3,000 to 5,000 and create space for the inviting tasting room and well-appointed gift shop, which Meyer’s wife, Julie, oversees.

“This whole room is her dream,” he said.

It’s also made Pend d’Oreille Winery a keystone tenant in downtown Sandpoint. The Meyers hold a 15-year lease on the building, which includes a new press and more barrel room. The ambiance allows them to hold special events for catered outings. All the changes prompted Meyer’s staff to grow from three to 10 in three months.

“We’re creating events to enhance people’s experience,” Meyer said. “There’s a winter carnival in Sandpoint, and we’re going to have flame juggling and a chef offering samples of different spices on blackened salmon. There’s a bonfire and free apple cider for kids. And I’m going to allow my wine to be put in a hot spiced wine, but just this once.”

While the 1995 Merlot “established us and opened up a lot of doors for us,” Stephen said, his Bistro red and white wines keep them open. His claret annually receives critical acclaim while remaining approachable for restaurants and consumers at $10.50 a bottle.

Meyer’s line includes Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling and his ever-popular Syrah. This past year, his 2001 Vickers Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay from Idaho, the 1999 Bistro Rouge Columbia Valley and 2000 Bistro Blanc (Chardonnay) Columbia Valley each rated an “Outstanding” by Wine Press Northwest.

The just-released 2000 Bistro Rouge includes Syrah for the first time. This year, for just the third time, he’s releasing his limited high-end blend called L’Œuvre, a barrel selection from French oak. In time, there will be a 2002 Sauvignon Blanc and a 2002 Sangiovese.

“We’re fielding e-mails and calls from all over the country, so were trying to utilize that public capital to get the brand out there a little further,” he said. “And it’s good for Northwest wines.”

The Meyers moved from California to Sandpoint for family and for the skiing, and while most of his grapes come from the Yakima Valley, having “Idaho” on the label hasn’t been an easy sell — even in Sandpoint.

“There was a stigma that the ’95 Merlot was made in Idaho,” he said. “That was a challenge to overcome. And there’s a natural tendency to maybe not be an immediate believer because it is local. Over time though, people have seen the response and they are believers.”

Pend d’Oreille Winery, 220 Cedar St., Sandpoint, ID 83864, 208-265-8545, www.powine.com. Open daily.

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